HIVES.
HIVES TO BE THOROUGHLY MADE.
Hives should be constructed of good materials, boards of good
thickness, free from flaws and cracks, well fitted and thoroughly
nailed.
The time of making them is not very particular, providing it is done in
season. It certainly should not be put off till the swarming period, to
be made as wanted, because if they are to be painted; it should be done
as long as possible before, as the rank smell of oil and paint, just
applied, might be offensive to the bees.
But what kind of hive shall be made?
In answer, some less than a thousand forms have been given. The
advantages of bee-keeping depend as much upon the construction of
hives, as any one thing; yet there is no subject pertaining to them on
which there is such a variety of opinions, and I have but little hopes
of reconciling all these conflicting views, opinions, prejudices, and
interests.
DIFFERENT OPINIONS ABOUT THEM.
One is in favor of the old box, and the cruel practice of killing the
bees to obtain the honey, as the only means to obtain "luck;" "they are
sure to run out if they meddle with them." Another will rush to the
opposite extreme, and advocate all the extravagant fancies of the
itinerant patent-vender, as the _ne plus ultra_ of all hives, when
perhaps it would be worth more for fire-wood than the apiary.
THE AUTHOR HAS NO PATENT TO RECOMMEND.
To remove from the mind of the reader all apprehension that I am about
condemning one patent to recommend another, I would say in the
beginning, that I have _no patent to praise, no interest in deceiving_,
and I hope no prejudices to influence me, in advocating or condemning
_any_ system. I wish to make bee-keeping plain, simple, economical, and
profitable; so that when we sum up the profit "it shall not be found in
the other pocket."
It is a principle recognized by our statute, that no person is suitable
as a Juror, who is biased either by interest or prejudice. Now whether
I am the impartial Jurist, is not for me to say: but I wish to discuss
the subject fairly. I hope some few will be enabled to see their own
interest: at any rate, dismiss prejudice, as far as possible, while we
examine wherein _one class_ in community is unprofitable to
bee-keepers.
SPECULATORS SUPPORTED LONG ENOUGH.
We have faithfully supported a host of speculators on our business for
a long time; often not caring one straw about our success, after
pocketing the fee of successful "humbuggery." One is no sooner gone,
than we are beset by another, with something altogether different, and
of course the acme of perfection.
PREFIX OF PATENT A BAD RECOMMENDATION.
This has been done until the very prefix of patent, or premium,
attached to a hive, renders it almost certain that there must be
something deleterious to the apiarian; either in expense of
construction or intricate and perplexing in management, requiring an
engineer to manage, and a skilful architect to construct.
What does the American savage, who without difficulty can track the
panther or wolf, know of the principles of chemistry? What does the
Chemist know of following a track in the forest, when nothing but
withered leaves can guide him? Each understands principles, the
_minutiae_ of which the other never dreamed.
IGNORANCE OF OFFICERS AND COMMITTEES.
Thus it appears to be with granting patents and premiums, if we take
what has been patented and praised by our committees and officers as
improvements in bee-culture. These men may be capable, intelligent, and
well fitted for their sphere, but in bee matters, about as capable of
judging, as the Hottentot would be of the merits of an intricate
steam-engine. Knowledge and experience are the only qualifications
competent to decide.
OPPOSITION TO SIMPLICITY.
I am aware that among the thousands whose direct interest is opposed to
my simple, plain manner of getting along, many will be ready to contend
with me for every departure from their patent, improved or premium
hives, as the case may be.
BY GAINING ONE POINT, PRODUCE ANOTHER EVIL.
I think it will be an easy matter to show that every departure from
simplicity to gain _one_ point, is attended in another by a
correspondent evil, that often exceeds the advantage gained. That we
have made vast improvements in art and science, and in every department
of human affairs, no one will deny; consequently, it is assumed we must
correspondingly improve in a bee-hive; forgetting that nature has fixed
limits to the instinct of the bee, beyond which she will not go!
It will be necessary to point out the advantages and objections to
these pretended improvements, and then we will see if we cannot avoid
the objections, _and retain the advantages, without the expense_, by a
simple addition to the common hive; because if we expect to encourage
bee-keeping, they must have better success than a neighbor of mine, who
expended fifty dollars for bees and a patent, and lost all in three
years! Most bee-keepers are farmers; very few are engineers sufficient
to work them successfully. I would say to all such as do not understand
the nature of bees, adhere to simplicity until you do, and then I am
quite sure you will have no desire for a change.
FIRST DELUSION.
Probably the first delusion in the patent line originated with the
idea, that to obtain surplus honey, it was absolutely necessary to have
a chamber hive. To get rid of the depredations of mice, the suspended
hive was contrived. The inclined bottom-board was then added to throw
out the worms. To prevent the combs from sliding down, the lower end
was contracted.
The principle of bees rearing queens from worker-eggs when destitute,
gave rise to the dividing hive in several forms. Comb, when used
several years, becomes thickened and black, and needs changing; hence
the changeable hives, Non-swarmers have been introduced to save risk
and trouble. Moth-proof hives to prevent the ravages of worms, &c., &c.
CHAMBER HIVE.
The chamber hive is made with two apartments; the lower and largest is
for the permanent residence of the bees, the upper or chamber for the
boxes. Its merits are these: the chamber affords all the protection
necessary for glass boxes; considered as a cover, it is never lost. Its
demerits are inconvenience in handling; it occupies more room if put in
the house in the winter; if glass boxes are used, only one end can be
seen, and this may be full when the other may hold some pounds yet, and
we cannot possibly know until it is taken out. I know we are told to
return such boxes when not full "and the bees will soon finish them,"
but this will depend on the yield of honey at the time; if abundant, it
will be filled; if not, they will be very likely to take a hint, and
remove below what there is in the box; whereas if the chamber was
separate from the hive, and was not a chamber but a loose cap to cover
the boxes, it could be raised at any time without disturbing a single
bee, and the precise time of the boxes being filled ascertained, (that
is, when they are of glass.)
MRS. GRIFFITH'S HIVE.
Mrs. Griffith, of New Jersey, is said to have invented the suspended
chamber hive with the inclined bottom-board. One would suppose this was
sufficiently inconvenient to use, and difficult and expensive to
construct.
WEEKS' IMPROVEMENT.
Yet Mr. Weeks makes an alteration, calls it an improvement, the expense
is but a trifle more; it is sufficient to be sanctioned by a patent.
From front to rear, the bottom is about three inches narrower than the
top, somewhat wedge-shape; it has the merit to prevent the combs from
slipping down, when they _happen_ to be made, to have the edges
supported. The objections are, that filth from the bees will not fall
as readily to the bottom as if every side was perpendicular, and the
extra trouble in constructing.
INCLINED BOTTOM-BOARDS DO NOT THROW OUT ALL THE WORMS.
Inclined bottom-boards form the basis of one or two patents, said to be
good to roll out the worms. I can imagine a pea rolling off such a
board; but a worm is not often found in a rolling condition. Most of us
know, that when a worm drops from the combs, it is like the spider,
with a thread attached above. The only way that I can imagine one to be
thrown out by these boards, is to have it dead when it strikes it, or
so cold that it cannot spin a thread, and wind to shake the board, till
it rolls off. The objections to these boards are coupled with the
suspended hive, with which they are usually connected.
OBJECTIONS TO SUSPENDED HIVES.
All suspended hives _must be objectionable_ to any one who wishes to
know the _true_ condition of his bees at all times. Only think of the
trouble of unhooking the bottom-board, and getting down on your back,
or twisting your neck till your head is dizzy, to look up among the
combs, and then see nothing satisfactory for want of light; or to lift
the hive from its supporters, and turn it over. The operation is too
formidable for an indolent man, or one that has much other business.
The examination would very probably be put off till quite sure it would
do no longer, and sometimes a few days after that, when you will very
often find your bees past remedy.
SEE BEES OFTEN.
"_See your bees often_," is a choice recipe,--it is worth five hundred
dollars at interest, even when you have but few stocks. How necessary
then that we have every facility for a close and minute inspection. How
much easier to turn up a hive that simply rests on a stand. Sometimes
it is necessary to turn the hive, even bottom up, and let the rays of
the sun directly among the combs, to see _all_ the particulars. By this
close inspection, I have often ascertained the cause of some
difficulty, and provided a remedy, thus saving a good many that in a
short time would have been lost; yet, with a little help, were as
valuable as any by another year.
HALL'S PATENT.
Mr. Hall has added a lower section to his hive, about four inches deep,
with two boards inside, like the roof of a house, to discharge the
worms, &c.; but as these boards would interfere with close inspection,
they are objectionable. Several other variations of inclined
bottom-boards and suspended hives have been contrived, to obtain a
patent, but the objections offered will apply to most of them. I shall
not weary the reader by noticing in detail _every_ hive that has been
patented; I think if I notice the _principles of each kind_, it will
test his patience sufficiently.
JONES' PATENT.
Jones' dividing hive was probably suggested by this instinctive
principle of the bee, viz.: when a stock by any accident loses its
queen, and the combs contain eggs or very young larvae, they will rear
another. Now if a hive is constructed so as to divide the brood-combs,
it would seem quite certain that the half without a queen, would raise
one; and we could multiply our stocks without swarms, the trouble of
hiving, and risk of their going to the woods, &c.
AN EXPERIMENT.
Several years ago, I thought I had obtained a principle that would
revolutionize the whole system of bee management. In 1840 I constructed
such hives, and put in the bees to test by actual experiment, the
utility of what seemed so very plausible in theory. It would appear
that this principle suggested the same idea to Mr. Jones; perhaps with
this difference: I think he did not wait to test the plan thoroughly,
before obtaining his patent in '42. One vender of rights asserted that
63 stocks were made from one in three years; but somehow a great many
that obtained the rights, failed in their expectations. From my
experiments, I think I could guess at some of the reasons.
Mr. A.--"Well, what are the reasons? give us your experience, if you
please, I am interested; I had the right for such a hive, and had a lot
made to order, that cost more money in the end than I shall ever pay
again for anything about bees."
Do not be too hasty, friend, I think I can instruct you to keep bees on
principles in accordance with their nature, which is very simple, so
that if you can be induced to try again, we will have the _hives_ cost
but little, at any rate.
REASONS OF FAILURE IN DIVIDING HIVES.
The greatest difficulty with dividing hives, appeared to be here. It
must be constructed with a partition or division to keep the combs in
each apartment separate; otherwise, we make tearing work in the
division. When bees are first put into such hives, unless the swarm is
very large, and honey abundant, one apartment will be filled to the
bottom before a commencement is made in the other.
Mr. A.--"What difference can that make? It is necessary to have the
hive full; if it cannot be all filled at once, why let them fill part."
The difference is this. The first combs built by a swarm are for brood,
and store-combs afterwards, as needed; one apartment will be nearly
filled with all brood-combs, and the other with store-combs and honey.
Now in the two kinds of cells there is a great difference; those for
breeding are near half an inch in length, while those for storing are
sometimes two inches or more; totally unfit for breeding; until the
bees cut them off to the proper length, which they will not do, unless
compelled for want of room, consequently this side of store-combs is
but little used for brood. When such hive is divided, the chances are
not more than one in four, that this apartment will have any young bees
of the proper age from which to raise a queen; if not, and the old
queen is in the part with the brood-comb, where she will be ninety-nine
times in a hundred, one half of the hive is lost for want of a queen.
Mr. A.--"Ah! I think I now understand how I lost one-half of nearly
every hive I divided. I also lost some of them in the winter; there was
plenty of bees as well as honey; can you tell the cause of this?"
I will guess that they starved.
Mr. A.--"Starved! why, I said there was plenty of honey."
I understood it, but nevertheless feel quite sure.
Mr. A.--"I would like to see that made plain; I can't understand how
they could starve when there was honey!"
CAUSE OF STARVING IN SUCH HIVES.
I said one apartment would be filled with brood-combs; this will be
occupied, at least partially, with brood as long as the yield of honey
lasts; consequently, there will be but little room for storing here,
but the other side may be full throughout. The bees will take up their
winter quarters among the brood-combs. Now suppose the honey in this
apartment is all exhausted during a severe turn of cold weather, what
can the bees do? If one should leave the mass and go among the frosty
combs for a supply, its fate would be as certain as starvation. Without
frequent intervals of warm weather to melt all frost on the combs, and
allow the bees to go into the other apartment for honey, they _must_
starve.
The cost of construction is another objection to this hive, as the
labor bestowed on one is more than would finish two, that would be much
better.
ADVANTAGES OF THE CHANGEABLE HIVE CONSIDERED.
The value of changeable hives is based upon the following
principle:--Each young bee when it first hatches from the egg, is
neither more nor less than a worm; when it receives the necessary food,
the bees seal it over; it will then spin a cocoon, or line its cell
with a coating of silk, less in thickness than the thinnest paper: this
remains after the bee leaves it. It is evident, therefore, that after a
few hundreds have been reared in a cell, and each one has left its
cocoon, that such cell must be somewhat diminished, although the
thickness of a dozen cocoons could not be measured; and this old cell
needs removing, that the bees may replace it with a new one. But how
shall it be done? This is a feat for the display of ingenuity. A common
man might go about it in a very sensible, simple manner, might possibly
turn the hive over, and cut out the old combs when necessary, without
knowing perhaps that the patent-vender could _sell_ a receipt to do the
thing _scientifically_, the benefit of which would be many times on the
principle of a surgeon cutting off your head, to get a good chance to
tie a small artery according to system; or would show you a roundabout
way of half a dozen miles to accomplish what the same number of rods
would do. Had we not ocular demonstration of the fact, we could not
suppose so many variations for the same end could be invented. But if
we reward ingenuity, it will be stimulated to great exertions. Perhaps
if we describe the merits of one or two of this class, the utility of
this principle may be comprehended.
VARIATION OF THESE HIVES.
First, then, the sectional hive of various patterns has been patented;
it consists generally of about three boxes, one above another; the top
of each has one large hole, or several small ones, or cross-bars, about
an inch wide, and half an inch apart; these holes or spaces allowing
the bees to pass from one box to the other. When all are full, the
upper one is removed, and an empty one put under the bottom; in this
way all are changed, and the combs renewed in three years; very easily
and quietly done. This is as far as a patent-vender wishes the subject
investigated; and some of his customers have not gone beyond this
point. As an offset for these advantages, we will first look at the
cost of such hive.
EXPENSE IN CONSTRUCTING CHANGEABLE HIVES.
It is as much work to construct each separate section, as a common
hive; consequently, it is three times the expense to begin with. It is
objectionable for wintering bees, on the same principle as the dividing
hive. I object to it on another point: our surplus honey will never be
pure, as each section must be used for breeding, and every cell so
used, will contain cocoons corresponding to the number of bees raised.
SURPLUS HONEY WILL CONTAIN BEE-BREAD.
Also pollen, or bee-bread, is always stored in the vicinity of the
young brood; some of this will remain mixed with the honey, to please
the palate with its _exquisite flavor_. The majority will probably
prefer all surplus honey stored in pure comb, where it will be with
proper management.
I will here give a full description of a hive on this principle, as I
have the description from one of its advocates, in the Dollar
Newspaper, Philadelphia: called Cutting's Patent Changeable Hive.
DESCRIPTION OF CUTTING'S CHANGEABLE HIVE.
"The size of the changeable hive most used in this section, has an
outside shell, made of inch boards, about two feet high and sixteen and
a half inches square, with a door hung in the rear. On the inside are
three boxes or drawers, which will hold about one thousand cubic inches
each, and when filled with honey, usually weigh about thirty-five
pounds, which is a sufficient amount of honey to winter a large swarm.
The sides of these drawers are made of boards, about half an inch
thick; the tops and bottoms of the lower drawers and ends of the upper
drawers should be three-fourths of an inch, and the drawers should be
fourteen inches high, fourteen inches from front to rear, and six and
three-fourths inches wide. Two of these drawers stand side by side,
with the third placed flatwise upon the two, with a free communication
from one drawer to another, by means of thirty three-fourth inch holes
on the side of each drawer, and twenty-four in the bottom of the upper
drawer, and holes in the top and bottom of the lower drawers, to
correspond, and slides to cut off the communication when occasion may
require. Thus we see our hive may be one hive, with communication
sufficiently free throughout, or we may have three hives combined. The
drawers have tubes made in them, (for the bees to pass and repass),
which are made to go through the front side of the hive. The back-side
of the drawers are doors, with glass set in them. These drawers set up
from the bottom of the hive, and rest on pieces of wood, closely fitted
in such a way, as to make a space under the drawers for the _dirt_,
_dead bees_, and _water_, which collect in the bottom of hives in
winter; between the drawers and the outside is an air space of about
one-third of an inch.
These hives, when well made and painted, will last many years, and
those doing much in the business will find it an advantage to have a
few extra drawers. Having given you some idea of the construction of
the changeable hive, I will proceed to notice some of the most
important reasons why I prefer this hive to any I have yet seen. First
because the hive, being constructed upon the changeable principle, so
that by taking out a full drawer, and placing an empty one in its
stead, our comb is always kept new, wherefore, the size of the bee is
preserved, and kept in a more healthy, or prosperous state, or
condition, than when obliged to remain and continue to breed, in the
old comb, when the cells have become small. Secondly, because small,
late swarms may be easily united. Thirdly, because large swarms may be
easily divided. Fourthly, because however late a swarm may come off, it
may be easily supplied with honey for the winter, by taking from a full
hive a surplus drawer, and placing it in the hive of the late swarm.
Fifthly, because a column of air between the drawers and the outside of
the hive is a non-conductor of both heat and cold, preventing the
melting of the comb, and securing the bees against frost and cold."
Now here is a full description of perhaps as good a hive as any of its
class; it is given for the benefit of those who wish to go miles
instead of rods; they may know the road, especially as they can have
the privilege by paying for it: for myself, I had rather be
excused,--why, reading the description has nearly exhausted my
patience; what should I do if I attempted to make one?
FIRST OBJECTION, COST OF CONSTRUCTION.
The first obstacle in the way (after the right is obtained) is the
construction. Let's see; we want inch boards to make the shell,
three-quarter inch boards for the tops and bottoms of drawers, half
inch for sides, hinges to hang a door, glass for back of drawers, tubes
for the egress of the bees, and slides to cut off communication. It
will be necessary to get a mechanic, and a workman too. Those 108 holes
that must be bored, _must match_, or it is of no use to make them. But
few farmers would have the tools requisite, a still less number the
skill and patience to do it. What the cost might be by the time a hive
was ready to receive the bees, I could not say; but guess it might be
some three or four dollars.
HIVES CAN BE MADE WITH LESS EXPENSE.
The one I shall recommend, without paint, will not cost, or need not,
over 37-1/2 cents, with cover, etc. Now, if we wish hives for ornament,
it is well enough to expend something for the purpose; but it is well
not to refine too much, as there are limits which, if passed, will
render it unfit for bees. Therefore, when profit is an object, the
extra expense will or ought to be made up by the bees, in return for an
expensive domicil. But will they do it? The merits of the one under
consideration are fully given. "First, by taking out a full drawer and
putting in an empty one in its stead, the combs are always kept new,
and cells of full size." Now this fear of bees becoming dwarfs in
consequence of being reared in cells too small, has done more mischief
among the bees, and their owners' pockets, than if the fact had never
been thought, or heard of.
OLD BREEDING CELLS WILL LAST A LONG TIME.
These old cells do not need renewing half as often as has been
represented. It is the interest of these patent-venders to sell rights;
this interest either blinds their eyes as to facts, or lulls the
internal monitor of right, while acquisitiveness is gratified. The same
cells can be used for breeding six or eight years, perhaps longer, and
no one can tell the difference by the size of the bees; I have two
stocks now in their tenth year without renewal of comb. A neighbor of
mine kept a stock twelve years in the same combs; it proved as
prosperous as any. I have heard of their lasting twenty, and am
inclined to believe it.
CELLS LARGER THAN NECESSARY AT FIRST.
The bees seem to make a provision for this emergency, the sheets of
comb are farther apart than actually necessary at first, the diameter
of the cell is also a little larger than the size of the young bee
requires. _Of this we are certain_--great many young bees _can_ be
raised in a cell, and not be diminished in size, sufficient to be
detected. The bottom fills up faster than at the sides, and as they do
so, the bees add a little to the length, until the ends of these cells
on two parallel combs approximate too close to allow the bees to pass
freely; before which time it is unnecessary to remove comb for being
old.
EXPENSE OF RENEWING COMBS.
One important item should be considered in this matter, by those who
are so eager for new combs. It is doubtful whether one in 500 ever
thought of the expense of renewing comb. I find it estimated by one
writer,[2] that twenty-five lbs. of honey was consumed in elaborating
about half lb. wax. This without doubt is an over estimate, but no one
will deny that some is used.
[2] See Appendix of Cottage Bee-keeper, page 118.
BEST TO USE OLD COMBS AS LONG AS THEY WILL ANSWER.
I am satisfied of this much, from actual experience, that every time
the bees have to renew their brood-combs in a hive, they would make
from ten to twenty-five lbs. in boxes, hence I infer that their time
can be more profitably employed than in constructing brood-combs _every
year_. I would also suggest that when combs have been once used for
breeding it is the best use they can be applied to, after that, as the
cocoons render it unfit for much else than a little wax.
METHOD FOR PRUNING WHEN NECESSARY.
But when the combs do actually need removing, I prefer the following
method of pruning, to driving the bees out entirely, as has been
recommended. It can be done in about an hour. As we are comparing the
merits of different methods of getting rid of old combs, I shall give
mine here, notwithstanding it may seem a little out of place.
The best time is a little before night. The first movement is to blow
under the hive some tobacco smoke (the best means of charming them I
ever found); the bees, deprived of all disposition to sting, retreat up
among the combs to get away from the smoke; now raise the hive from the
stand and carefully turn it bottom upwards, avoiding any jar, as some
of the bees that were in the top when the smoke was introduced, and did
not get a taste, will now come to the bottom to ascertain the cause of
the disturbance; these should receive a share, and they will
immediately return to the top, perfectly satisfied. When so many bees
are in the hive, as to be in the way in pruning, (which if there is not
it is not worth it,) get an empty hive the size of the old one, and set
it over, stopping the holes; now strike the lower hive with a hammer or
stick, lightly and rapidly, five or ten minutes, when nearly all the
bees will be in the upper hive, and set that on the stand. There being
now nothing in the way, except a few scattering bees, that I will
_warrant not to sting, unless you pinch or get them fast_.
[Illustration: TOOLS FOR CUTTING OUT COMB.]
The broad one is very readily made from a piece of an old scythe, about
18 inches long, by any blacksmith, by simply taking off the back, and
forming a shank for a handle at the heel. The end should be ground all
on one side, and square across like a carpenter's chisel. This is for
cutting down the sides of the hive; the level will keep it close the
whole length, when you wish to remove all the combs; it being square
instead of pointed or rounded, no difficulty will be found in guiding
it,--it being very thin; no combs are mashed by crowding.
The other tool is for cutting off combs at the top or any other place.
It is merely a rod of steel three-eighths of an inch diameter, about
two feet long, with a thin blade at right angles, one and a half inches
long, and a quarter inch wide, both edges sharp, upper side bevelled,
bottom flat, &c. You will find these tools very convenient; be sure and
get them by all means, the cost cannot be compared to the advantages.
Now with the tools just described, proceed to remove the brood-combs
from the centre of the hive. The combs near the top and outside are
used but little for breeding, and are generally filled with honey;
these should be left as a good start for refilling, but take out all
that is necessary, while you are about it; then reverse the hives,
putting the one containing the bees under the other; by the next
morning all are up; now put it on the stand, and this job is done
without one cent extra expense for a patent to help you, and the bees
are much better off for the honey left, which has to be taken away with
all patent plans that I have seen, and this, as has been remarked, is
not worth much, occupied as it is with a few cocoons and bee-bread. It
is worth much more to the bees, and they will give us pure comb and
honey for it.
USE OF TOBACCO SMOKE.
"I would not do it for fifty dollars, the bees would sting me to
death." Stop a moment, if you never tried the efficacy of tobacco
smoke, you know nothing of a powerful agent; this is the grand secret
of success; without it, I admit it would be somewhat hazardous; but
with it, I have done it time after time without receiving a single
sting, and no protection whatever, for either hands or face.
But is there no difficulty with our sectional or changeable hive, when
this feat is to be performed? The combs will be made in the two drawers
similar to the dividing hive, brood-combs in one side, and store-combs
in the other. We wish to remove the one with brood-combs of course, (as
that is the one where the combs are thick and bad, &c.) Where will the
queen be? With the brood-comb, where her duty is most likely to be;
well, this is the one we want, and we take it out. How is she to get
back? She must go back, or we have three chances in four of losing the
stock; but her majesty will remain perfectly easy, as well as some of
the workers, wherever you put the drawer.
FURTHER OBJECTIONS TO A SECTIONAL HIVE.
I can see no other way but to break the box, look her up, and help the
helpless thing home, (the chances of being stung may be here too.) Now,
for a time at least, they must use the other drawer for breeding, where
most of the cells are unfit. There is altogether too great a proportion
of drone-cells; these, as well as the other size, will nearly all be
much too long, and will have to be cut off to the proper length, a
waste of wax as well as labor. Another thing might be set down per
disadvantage of Mr. Cutting's hive; the job of getting a swarm into
such hive, at first, I fancy would not be desirable to many. Now, when
we strike the balance, putting expense, difficulties, and perplexities
on one side, and simplicity and economy on the other, it appears like a
"great cry for little wool." But stop a moment, four other advantages
are enumerated in its favor: second, third, and fourth are borrowed
from the common hive, or are all available here when required. But
fifthly, allows a "column of air between the drawers and outside of the
hive, is a non-conductor of heat and cold," &c. This is an advantage
not possessed by the common hive; neither does the common hive offer
such advantages to the moth, by affording such snug quarters for worms
to spin their cocoons, when they cannot be destroyed without
considerable trouble.
NON-SWARMERS.
Here I will endeavor to be brief; I feel anxious to get through with
this disagreeable part, where every word I say will clash with
somebody's interest or prejudice. The merits of this hive are to obtain
surplus honey with but little trouble, which often succeeds in
satisfying people of its utility. The principal objection is found on
the score of profit. Suppose we start with one, call it worth five
dollars in the beginning, at the end of ten years it is worth no more,
very likely not as much, (the chances of its failing, short of that
time, we will not take into the account;) we might get annually, say
five dollars worth of surplus honey, amounting to fifty dollars.
CONTRAST OF PROFIT.
The swarming hive, we suppose, will throw off one swarm annually, and
make us one dollar's worth of surplus honey, (we will not reckon that
yielded by the first swarm, which is often more than that from the old
stocks,) about one third of the average in good seasons. The second
year there will be two to do the same; take this rate for ten years, we
have 512 stocks, either of them worth as much as the non-swarmer, and
about a thousand dollars worth of surplus honey. Call these stocks
worth five dollars each, which makes $2,560, all added together will
make the snug little sum of about $3,500, against $55. It is not to be
expected that any of us will realize profits to this extent, but it is
a forcible illustration of the advantages of the swarming hive over the
non-swarmer.
PRINCIPLE OF SWARMING NOT UNDERSTOOD.
But many of these non-swarmers, 'tis said, can be changed to swarmers
to suit the convenience of the apiarian--Colton's is one. It is
asserted that it can be made to swarm within two days at any time,
merely by taking off the six boxes or drawers that are very ingeniously
attached; as this contracts the room, the bees are forced out. Now I
will candidly confess that I could never get this thing to work at all.
Of this I am quite positive, that he (Mr. Colton) is either ignorant of
the necessary and regular preparations that bees make before swarming,
or supposes others are. Mr. Weeks has advocated the same principle: he
says, "There is no queen in any stage of existence, in the old stock,
immediately after the first swarm leaves it." I have examined this
matter till I am satisfied I risk but little in the bold assertion,
that not one stock in fifty will cast a swarm short of a week after
commencing preparations. This opinion will be adopted by whoever will
take the trouble to investigate for themselves. (The chapter on
swarming will give the necessary instructions for examining this point,
if you wish.)
NOT TO BE DEPENDED UPON.
Further, these non-swarmers are not always to be depended upon as such.
They will sometimes throw off swarms when there is abundant room in the
hive as well as in the boxes.
HIVES NOT ALWAYS FULL BEFORE SWARMING.
I know Weeks, Colton, Miner and others, tell us the hive _must be full_
before we need expect a swarm; but experience is against them. Bees do
sometimes cast a swarm before filling the hive. From close observation,
I find when a hive is very large, say 4,000 cubic inches, and is filled
with comb, the first season, that such seldom swarm except in very good
years.
SIZE OF HIVES NEEDED.
But if such hive is only half full, or 2,000 inches, it is very common
for them to swarm without adding any new comb; proving very
conclusively that a hive that size, is sufficient for all their wants
in the breeding season. When about 1,200 inches only had been filled
the first year, I have known them to add combs until they had filled
about 1,800, and then cast a swarm, proving also that a little less
than 2,000 will do for breeding. I have tested the principle of giving
room to prevent swarming, a little further.
AN EXPERIMENT.
In the spring of '47, I placed under five full hives, containing 2,000
solid or cubic inches, as many empty ones, the same size, without the
top. I had a swarm from each; but two had added any new comb, and these
but little. If these hives had been filled to the bottom with comb in
the spring, it is very doubtful whether either of them would have
swarmed. The only place we can put a good stock and not expect it to
swarm in good seasons, is inside a building, where it is perfectly
dark, and even here a few have been known to do it. If we could manage
to get _a very large hive_ filled with combs, it would perhaps be as
good a preventive as any. All the bees that could be reared in one
season, would have sufficient room in the combs ready made for their
labors, and there would be no necessity for their emigration. "But what
becomes of all the bees raised in the course of several years?" To this
question I shall not probably be able to give a satisfactory answer at
present.
BEES DO NOT INCREASE, IF FULL, AFTER THE FIRST YEAR, IN SAME HIVE.
I only will notice the fact, that the bees somehow disappear, and there
is no more at the end of five years than at the end of one. A stock of
bees may contain 6,000 the first of May, and raise 20,000 in the course
of the year; by the first of the next May, as a general thing, not one
more will be found, even when no swarm had issued.
GILLMORE'S SYSTEM DOUBTED.
Now this fact is not known by a recent patentee from the State of
Maine, (else he supposes others do not,) as he recommends placing bees
in a house, and empty hives in connection with the one containing bees,
and in a few years all will be full. He has discovered a mixture to
feed bees, (to be noticed hereafter); this may account for an unusual
quantity being stored by an ordinary sized family. He said another
thing, that is, each of these added hives would contain a queen! This
would seem to explain away the first difficulty of the continued
increase of bees, and so it would if it did not get into another
equally erroneous; one error never made another true. This idea of bees
raising a queen, merely because they have a side box to the main hive,
is contrary to all my experience, and to the experience of all writers
(except himself) that I have consulted. If the principle is correct,
why not sometimes raise a queen in a box on the top or side for us? I
never discovered a single instance, where two perfect queens were
quietly about their duties in connection with one hive. The deadly
hostility of queens is known to all observing apiarians. Not having the
least faith in the principle, I will leave it.
UTILITY OF MOTH-PROOF HIVES DOUBTED.
As for moth-proof hives, I have but little to say, as I have not the
least faith in one of them. When I come to speak of that insect, I will
show, I think, conclusively, that no place where bees are allowed to
enter is safe from them.
Several other _perfect hives_ might be mentioned; yet I believe that I
have noticed the principles of each. Have I not said enough? Such as
are not satisfied now would not be if I filled a volume. Our view of
things is the result of a thousand various causes; the most powerful is
interest, or prejudice.
It is said that in Europe, the same ingenuity is displayed in twisting
and torturing the bee, to adapt her natural instinct to unnatural
tenements; tenements invented not because the bee needs them, but
because this is a means available for a little change. "Patent men"
have found the people generally too ignorant of apiarian science. But
let us hope that their days of prosperity in this line are about
numbered.
INSTINCTS OF THE BEE ALWAYS THE SAME.
Let us fully understand that the nature of the bee, when viewed under
any condition, climate, or circumstance, is the same. Instincts first
implanted by the hand of the Creator, have passed through millions of
generations, unimpaired, to the present day, and will continue
unchanged through all future time, till the last bee passes from the
earth. We may, we have, to gratify acquisitiveness, forced them to
labor under every disadvantage; yes, we have compelled them to
sacrifice their industry, prosperity, and even their lives have been
yielded, but never their instincts. We may destroy life, but cannot
improve or take from their nature. The laws that govern them are fixed
and immutable as the Universe.
Spring returns to its annual task; dissolves the frost, warms into life
nature's dormant powers. Flowers with a smile of joy, expand their
delicate petals in grateful thanks, while the stamens sustain upon
their tapering points the anthers covered with the fertilizing pollen,
and the pistil springs from a cup of liquid nectar, imparting to each
passing breeze delicious fragrance, inviting the bee as with a thousand
tongues to the sumptuous banquet. She does not need an artificial
stimulus from man, as an inducement to partake of the feast; without
his aid or assistance she visits each wasting cup of sweetness, and
secures the tiny drop, while the superabundant farina, dislodged from
the nodding anthers, covers her body, to be brushed together and
kneaded into bread. All she requires at the hands of man, is a suitable
storehouse for her treasures. In good seasons, her nature Will prompt
the gathering for her own use an over supply. This surplus man may
appropriate to his own use, without detriment to his bees, providing
his management is in accordance with their nature.
PROFIT THE OBJECT.
To give the bees all necessary advantages, and obtain the greatest
possible amount of profit, with the least possible expense, has been my
study for years. I might keep a few stocks for amusement, even if it
was attended with no dollar and cent profit, but the number would be
_very small_; I will honestly confess then, that _profit_ is the
actuating principle with me. I have a strong suspicion that the
majority of readers have similar motives. I am sure, then, that all of
us with these views, will consider it a pity, when a stock produces
five dollars worth of surplus honey, to be obliged to pay three or four
of it for patent and other useless fixings.
COMMON HIVE RECOMMENDED.
I would not exchange the hive I have used for the last ten years for
any patent I ever saw, if furnished gratis. I will guarantee that it
affords means to obtain surplus honey, as much in quantity and in any
way which fancy may dictate, whether in wood or glass, and what is more
than all, it shall cost nothing for the privilege of using.
SIZE IMPORTANT.
After deciding what kind of hive we want, the next important point is
the size. Dr. Bevan, an English author, recommends a size "eleven and
three-eighths inches square, by nine deep in the clear," making only
about 1,200 inches, and so few pounds necessary to winter the bees,
that when I read it, I found myself wondering if the English inch and
pound were the same as ours.
SMALL HIVES MORE LIABLE TO ACCIDENTS.
At all events, I think it too small for our Yankee bees in any place.
We must remember, that the queen needs room for all her eggs, and the
bees need space to store their winter provisions; for reasons before
given, this should be in one apartment. When this is too small, the
consequences will be, their winter supply of food is liable to run out.
The swarms from such will be smaller and the stock much more liable to
accidents, which soon finish them off.
APT TO DECEIVE.
Yet I can imagine how one can be deceived by such a small hive, and
recommend it strongly; especially if patented. Suppose you locate a
large swarm in a hive near the size of Dr. Bevan's; the bees would
occupy nearly all the room with brood-combs; now if you put on boxes,
and as soon as filled put on empty ones, the amount of surplus honey
would be great; very satisfactory for the first summer, but in a year
or two your little hive is gone. This result will be in proportion as
we enlarge our hives, until we arrive at the opposite extreme.
UNPROFITABLE IF TOO LARGE.
If too large, more honey will be stored than is required for their
winter use. It is evident a portion might have been taken, if it had
been stored in boxes. The swarms will not be proportionably large when
they do issue, which is seldom--but there is this advantage, they last
a long time, and are but little profit in surplus honey, or swarms.
CORRECT SIZE BETWEEN TWO EXTREMES.
Between the two extremes, like most other cases, is found the correct
place. A hive twelve inches square, each way, inside, has been
recommended as the correct size. Here are 1,728 cubic inches. This, I
think, is sufficient for many places, as the queen probably has all the
room necessary for depositing her eggs; and as the swarms are more
numerous, and nearly as large as from hives much larger; also, there is
room for honey sufficient to carry the bees through the winter, at
least, in many sections south of 40 degrees latitude, where the winter
is somewhat short.
SIZE FOR WARM LATITUDES.
This size will also do in this latitude (42 degrees,) in some seasons,
but not at all in others.[3] Not one swarm in fifty will consume
twenty-five lbs. of honey through the winter, that is, from the last of
_September_ to the first of April, (six months). The average loss in
that time is about eighteen lbs.; but the critical time is later; about
the last of May, or first of June, in many places.
[3] When Mr. Miner wrote his manual recommending this size, 1,728
inches, for all situations, it should be remembered he lived on
Long Island. Since removing to Oneida County in this State,
either his own experience or _some other cause_ has changed his
views, as he now recommends my size, viz., 2,000 inches.
LARGER HIVE MORE SAFE FOR LONG WINTERS OR BACKWARD SPRING.
About the first of April they commence collecting pollen and rearing
their young; by the middle of May all good stocks will occupy nearly,
if not quite all, their brood-combs for that purpose, but _little honey
is obtained_ before fruit blossoms appear; when these are gone, no more
of any amount is obtained until clover appears, which is some ten days
later. (I am speaking now particularly of this section; I am aware it
is very different in other places, where different flowers exist.) Now
if this season of fruit flowers should be accompanied by high winds, or
cold rainy weather, but little honey is obtained; and our bees have a
numerous brood on hand that _must be fed_. In this emergency, if no
honey is on hand of the previous year, a famine ensues; they destroy
their drones, perhaps some of their brood, and for aught I know put the
old bees on short allowance. This I do know, that the whole family has
actually starved at this season; sometimes in small hives. This of
course depends on the season; when favorable, nothing of the kind
occurs. Prudence therefore dictates the necessity of a provision for
this emergency, by making the hive a little larger for northern
latitudes, as a little more honey will be stored to take them through
this critical period. From a series of experiments closely observed.
2,000 INCHES SAFE FOR THIS SECTION.
I am satisfied that 2,000 inches in the clear, is the proper size for
safety in this section, and consequently, profit. On an average, swarms
from this size are as large as any.
The dimensions should be uniform in all cases, whatever size is decided
on. It is folly to accommodate each swarm with a hive corresponding in
size; a very small family this year, may be very large next, and a very
large one, very small, &c. A queen belonging to a small swarm will be
capable of depositing as many eggs, as another belonging to a barrel
full. A small family able to get through the winter and spring, may be
expected by another year to be as numerous as any.
KIND OF WOOD, WIDTH OF BOARD, ETC.
Of the kinds of wood for hives, pine is preferable, still other kinds
will do; I have no faith in bees liking one kind better than another,
and less likely to leave on that account. Hemlock is cheaper, and used
to a great extent; when _perfectly sound_ is as good as anything, but
is very liable to split, even after the bees have been in them some
time. It should be used only when better wood cannot be obtained. Bass
wood when used for hives should _always be painted_, and then will be
very liable to warp from the moisture arising from the bees inside.
When not painted outside, and allowed to get wet, if only for a few
hours, so much moisture is absorbed that it will bend outward, and
cleave from the combs and crack them. A few days of dry weather will
relieve the outside of water, and the inside kept moist by the bees,
the bending will be reversed, and the combs pressed inward, keeping the
bees fixing that which will not "stay fixed." Perhaps there is wood as
suitable or better than pine, but it is not as common.
SHAPE OF NO CONSEQUENCE.
Boards should be selected, if possible, that will be the proper width
to make the hive about square, of the right size. Say twelve inches
square, inside, by fourteen deep. I prefer this shape to any other, yet
it is not all important. I have had some ten inches square by twenty in
length; they were awkward looking, but that was all, I could discover
no difference in their prosperity. Also, I have had them twelve inches
deep by thirteen square, with the same result. Hence, if we avoid
extremes, and give the required room, the shape can make but little
difference.
It has been recommended to plane the boards for hives, "inside and
out;" but bees, when first put into such hive, find much difficulty in
holding fast until they get their combs started, hence this trouble is
worse than useless.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING HIVES.
If hives are not desired of the cheapest possible construction, the
outside may be planed and painted; but it is doubtful whether strict
economy would demand it. Yet a painted hive appears so much better,
that it ought to be done, especially as the paint adds almost enough to
its durability to pay the expense. The color may be whatever fancy
dictates; the moth will not probably be attracted by one color more
than another. White is affected the least by the sun in hot weather.
Lime is put on as white-wash, annually, by many, as a protection
against insects.
When hives are not painted, the grain should never be crosswise, having
the width of boards form the height; not that the bees would have any
dislike to such, but nails will not hold firmly, they draw out in a few
years. The size, shape, materials, and manner of putting together, are
now sufficiently understood, for what I want. Sticks half an inch in
diameter, should cross each way through the centre, to help support the
combs. A hole about an inch diameter in the front side, half way to the
top, is a great convenience for the bees to enter when coming home
heavy laden.
It now remains to make the top, cover, and boxes, (the bottom-board
will be described in another chapter.) The tops should be all alike;
boards fifteen inches square are just the right size; three-fourths of
an inch is the best thickness, (inch will do;) plane the upper side,
rabbet out around the edge of the upper side one inch wide, and
three-eighths deep; this will leave the top inside the rabbeting, just
thirteen inches.
SIZE OF CAP AND BOXES.
A box for a cover or cap, that size inside, will fit any hive. The
height of this box should be seven inches. Of course other sizes will
do, but it is best to commence with one that we can adhere to
uniformly, and no vexations arise by covers not fitting exactly, &c. I
think this size is as near correct as we shall be likely to get; we
want all the room in the boxes that the majority of our stocks demand
for storing in a yield of honey,[4] at the same time not be
necessitated to give too much of the room in the height. They will
commence work in a box five inches high, much sooner than one seven or
eight. To give the requisite room, and have the boxes less than five
inches high, would require more than thirteen inches on the top, this
would make the hive too much out of shape; it would appear top-heavy.
[4] I have added a side box occasionally, but it has seldom paid
me for the trouble.
MINER'S HIVE.
Miner's Equilateral Hive has a cap somewhat smaller than this in
diameter; consequently, if we have the requisite room, it must be in
its height. But by making the cap of his a little larger, and a few
trifling alterations, it would do very well for a patent. And if any
one _must_ have a patent hive, my advice is to get that; it costs but
two dollars for the right of using, and is nearer what we want for
bees, than any I ever saw. I prefer rabbeting around the edge of the
top, instead of nailing on a thin board the size of the inside of the
cover, with room for a slide under it; it affords too nice a place for
worms to spin their cocoons. Also, without the rabbeting water may get
under the cap, and pass along the top till a hole lets it among the
bees. As for slides, I do not approve of them at all; in shutting off
communication, it is almost certain to crush a few bees. This makes
them irritable for a week; they are unnecessary for me, at least. We
will now finish the hive.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING HOLES.
After the top is got out as directed, strike a line through the centre,
three and a quarter inches from this, make another on each side, now
measure on one of the last lines, two and a half inches for the first
hole, two inches for the next, and so on till five are marked on this,
and the same number on the other side, ten in all; these holes should
be about an inch diameter, a pattern three and a quarter inches wide,
and thirteen in length, with places for holes marked on it, will save
time when many are made. When this top is nailed on, the hive is ready.
A less number of holes is often used, and one is thought by some to be
sufficient; experience has satisfied me that the more room bees have to
enter boxes, the less reluctance is manifested in commencing their work
in them; but here is another extreme to be avoided: when the holes are
much larger, or more of them, or even one very large one, the queen is
very apt to go into the boxes and deposit her eggs, which renders the
comb tough, dark, &c., also bee-bread is stored near the brood. Dr.
Bevan's and Miner's cross-bar hives are objectionable on this account,
they offer too free access to the boxes; we want all the room that will
answer, and no more.
A SUGGESTION.
Mr. Miner's cross-bar hive is intended to make the bees construct all
straight combs, and probably will do it. But the disadvantage of
bee-bread and brood in the boxes will not be made up by straight combs.
For the benefit of those who have been made to believe straight combs
_all important_, and perhaps have purchased the right to make the hive,
and had some constructed, and have found bee-bread in their surplus
honey, I would suggest an improvement, (that is, if it is thought the
straight combs will pay. If you have not the right for the cross-bar
hive, and you wish to use it, I would say, buy the right, and remove
all grounds of complaint with him.) Put in the bars and hive your bees
as he directs. After all the combs are started, instead of setting the
open bottom boxes (which are also unsuitable for sending to market)
directly on the bars as he recommends, take off the cloth, and with
screws fasten on a top with ten holes, that I have just described; and
then you will have the straight combs, and surplus honey in the boxes
pure.
GLASS BOXES PREFERRED.
Having told how I make a hive, I will now give some reasons for
preferring a particular kind of boxes. I have taken great quantities of
honey to market, put up in every style, such as tumblers, glass jars,
glass boxes, wooden boxes with glass ends, and boxes all wood. I have
found the square glass boxes the most profitable; the honey in such
appears to the best possible advantage, so much so, that the majority
of purchasers prefer paying for the box at the same rate as the honey,
than the wood box, and have the tare allowed. This rate of selling
boxes always pays the cost, while we get nothing for the wood. Another
advantage in this kind of boxes is, while being filled, the progress
can be watched, and the time they are finished known precisely, when
they should be taken off, as every day they remain after that, soils
the purity of the combs.
GLASS BOXES--HOW TO MAKE.
_Directions for making._--Select half-inch boards of pine or other soft
light wood, cut the length twelve and three-quarters inches, width six
and three-eighths inches, dress down the thickness to three-eighths or
less, two pieces for a box, top and bottom, in the bottom bore five
holes throughout the centre to match with those in the top of the hive,
(the pattern used in marking the top of hives is just the one to mark
these). Next, get out the corner posts, five-eighths of an inch square,
and five inches in length; with a saw, thick enough to fit the glass,
cut a channel length-wise on two sides, one-fourth of an inch deep,
one-eighth from the corner, for the glass. A small lath nail through
each corner of the bottom into the posts will hold them; it is now
ready for the glass--10x12 is the right size to get--have them cut
through the centre the longest way for the sides, and they are right,
and again the other way, five and five-eighths long for the ends. These
can now be slipped into the channels of the posts, and the top nailed
on like the bottom, and the box is ready.
GUIDE-COMBS NECESSARY.
It will be found a great advantage, previous to nailing on the top, to
stick fast to it some pieces of guide-combs in the direction you wish
the bees to work. They are also an inducement for them to commence
several days sooner, than if they had to start combs for themselves;[5]
a piece an inch square will do; it is well to start every comb you want
in the box; two inches apart is about the right distance to look well.
To make these pieces hold fast, melt one edge by the fire, or candle,
or melt some bees-wax, and dip one edge in that, and apply it before
cooling; with a little practice you can make them stick without
difficulty. For a supply of such combs, save all empty, clean, white
pieces you can, when removing combs from a hive.
[5] A line of bees-wax made with a guide-plate, or other means,
is found to be of but little use.
If you have any way superior to this for making glass boxes, so much
the better, make them so by all means: "The best way is as good as
any." I give my method to be used only when better is not convenient.
If you sell honey, I think you will find it an advantage to have glass
boxes made in some way. Two of this size when full weigh 25 lbs. If
preferred, four boxes six and three-eighths inches square, can be used
for a hive instead of two; the expense of making is a little more for
the same number of lbs., yet, when it is in market, a few customers
will prefer this size.
WOOD BOXES.
For home consumption, the wood-box will answer equally well for all
purposes of obtaining the honey, but will give no chance to watch the
progress of the bees, unless a glass is inserted for the purpose, and
then it will need a door to keep it dark, or a cover over the whole
like the one for glass boxes, may be put on. Wood boxes are generally
made with open bottom, and set on the top of the hive. A passage for
the bees out of the box to the open air is unnecessary, and worse than
useless. They like to store their honey as far from the entrance as
possible. Unless crowded for room, they will not store much there when
such entrances are made.
Whether we intend to consume our surplus honey or not, it is as well to
have the hives and covers made in a manner that we can use glass, when
we are likely to have some to spare. I am not sure, but it would pay to
make hives in this way, even if glass boxes were never used; the
rabbeting prevents light as well as water from passing under the cover;
imagine a box set on a plain board nailed on for a top, without the
rabbeting; the warping or bending admits the light and water,
especially when hives are out in the weather, (and I shall not
recommend any other way of keeping them.)
COVER FOR HIVES.
I have termed the cap or box a cover; but this should also be covered
with a board laid on, if nothing else. A good roof for each hive can be
made by fastening two boards together like the roof of a building; let
it be about 18 by 24 inches; it being loose, can be changed in
accordance with the season; in spring, let the sun strike the hive; but
in hot weather let the longest end project over the south side, &c. You
can ornament this hive, if you choose, by mouldings or dentals, under
the top, where it projects over the body of the hive, also the cap can
have the top projected a little and receive the same addition.
JARS AND TUMBLERS--HOW PREPARED.
When jars, tumblers, or other vessels, that are all glass, are used, it
is _absolutely necessary_ to fasten as many pieces of combs as you wish
made, in the top, for a beginning, or fasten a piece of wood there; as
they seldom commence building on glass, without a start.
Some of you may have seen paraded at our fairs, or in the public parts
of some of our cities, hives containing tumblers, some of them neatly
filled, others empty, and this meagre sentence written upon them, _not
to be filled_! Pretending to govern the bees, as the juggler sometimes
does his tricks, by mysterious incantations! I once encountered an
agent of this humbug, and modestly suggested to him that I had a
counter charm: that I could put a tumbler on his hive and it would be
filled if the others were, however much he might forbid it by written
charms! He saw at a glance how the matter stood; I was not the customer
he wanted, and intimated that the show was only intended for the
extreme verdancy of most visitors. It no doubt assisted in displaying
his profound knowledge in bee management, which he wished to establish,
as he had a little work on the subject to sell, also hives, and bees.
The reader no doubt will guess as I did, the reason that those tumblers
were not filled, was because no combs were put in for a start.
PERFECT OBSERVATORY HIVE DESCRIBED.
There are many things pertaining to bees that cannot be properly
examined and understood, without a glass hive of some sort. Yet a
perfect observatory hive containing but one comb, is not a perfect hive
for the bees. We can see very well what the bees are doing, but it is
not a tenement they would choose if left to themselves. It forces them
to labor in an unnatural manner, is unsuitable for wintering bees, and
otherwise but little profit. If the satisfaction of witnessing some of
their operations more perfectly than in glass hives of another kind
will not pay, it is doubtful if we get it. I will describe as briefly
as possible. Two frames or sashes about two and a half feet square,
containing glass, are so fastened together as to leave room for only
one comb between them, about an inch and three-fourths apart. A comb of
this size will not support itself by the top and edges; hence, it is
necessary to put in numerous cross-bars to assist in supporting it.
Outside the glass are doors to keep the whole dark, to be opened when
we wish to inspect proceedings. Under the bottom is a board or frame,
to keep it in an upright position, &c. Probably but few will be induced
to make one. I will therefore describe another; a hive that I think
will pay better.
ONE LIKE COMMON HIVE PREFERRED.
If we expect to know what bees are doing in ordinary hives, we must
have one similar in every respect, in size, shape, number of bees, &c.
The construction of royal cells will be watched by most observers with
the greatest interest; now these are generally on one edge of the
combs. The bees leave a space half an inch or more between the edges of
the combs and one side of the hive, near half the length of it,
apparently for no other purpose but to have room for these cells, as
the other edges of the same combs are generally attached to the hive at
the bottom.
WHAT MAY BE SEEN.
Now instead of having one piece or pane of glass in the side of several
hives, I would recommend having one or more with glass on every side;
because we might have it on three sides, and not the fourth; and this
might contain all the queen cells, and we should miss an important
sight. There are many other things to be witnessed in such a hive. The
queen may be often seen depositing her eggs! We may see the workers
detach the scales of wax from their abdomen, and apply them to the
combs during the process of construction, see them deposit pollen from
their legs, store their honey, feed the queen, each other, their young
brood, seal over cells containing brood, honey, &c. It is further
useful as a guide for putting boxes on other hives, (that is, if it is
a good one, which it should be); we can easily ascertain whether our
bees are gaining or losing.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING GLASS HIVE.
My method of making them is as follows: The top is like those for other
hives, fifteen inches square, adapted to boxes and cover. This hive we
want to be as profitable as any, giving us surplus honey, and swarms
like others. Four posts are then got out, two inches square, and
thirteen in length; care should be taken to have the ends perfectly
square.
A frame is then to be made, just fourteen inches square outside, for
the bottom; the pieces are one inch thick, by two in width, halved
together at the corners. A guage-mark is then made around the under
side of the top, half an inch from the edge, a post is then set inside
of each corner of this mark, and thoroughly nailed, the bottom is
nailed on with the posts even with the outside corners. Four pieces an
inch thick, and an inch and a half wide, are fitted between the posts,
even with the guage-mark on the top. Sixteen strips, about one quarter
by half an inch, are got out, eight to be ten, and eight twelve inches
long.
A gauge-mark one inch from posts, bottom, &c., is the place to nail
these strips; very small nails or tacks will hold them. The panes of
glass are to rest against them, which are held in their places by small
pieces of tin, or brads. The doors are the size of the glass, 10x12,
about three-fourths of an inch thick; these doors are cut a little too
short, and the pieces, to prevent warping, are nailed on the ends;
these are hung to a post on one side, and secured by a button on the
other. On two opposite sides inside the posts, half way up, two strips,
half an inch by three quarters, are nailed, with holes in them for the
cross-sticks; one way is enough if you have guide-combs for a start,
like those recommended for boxes, so that the sheets will be at right
angles with them; otherwise, let the sticks cross both ways, about
three each way will be needed, as the glass at the edges is not so good
a support as wood.
The cap can be made of half inch boards; the top to project over like
the hive, or let it be a little more than half an inch, it will admit a
heavier moulding, which should surround it here, as well as at the top
of the hive, or if it is prefered, dentals can be used, and look
equally well--when no ornament is wanted, omit it. But painting seems
necessary for such hives, to prevent warping, and the swelling of the
doors in wet weather; these want to open and shut without rubbing or
sticking, otherwise we disturb the bees every time a door is stirred.
Putty should not be used to hold the glass, as the bees in the course
of a few years will cover it with propolis; it is then necessary to
take it out, and scrape, clean, and return it, when, if fastened with
putty, it would be difficult; cold weather is the time for this
operation. I am aware that a hive can be more substantially made than
the one here described; but I have endeavored to make one as cheap as
possible, and if properly made, will answer. The cost will be much less
than many patents, and the satisfaction much more, at least, with many.
When our hive contains a swarm of bees, and they are thoroughly in
operation, we must not let them pass out at the bottom on every side,
as they are frequently allowed to do from other hives; because, should
one come out a little excited in consequence of a slight jar,
accidentally given the hive, on opening the door or some other way, and
should find our face within a foot of their house, peering in the
window among their works, it would be very likely to give us _a gentle
hint_ that it was a mark of low breeding, that we were not wanted there
at all, and that it was none of our business what they were doing. To
prevent this as far as possible, a bottom-board, somewhat different
from the common one, is needed. Four posts of chestnut or other lasting
wood, about two inches square, are driven into the earth in the form of
a square, far enough apart to come under the corners of the
bottom-board, (fifteen inches,) and high enough for convenience when
looking into the hive. The ends of these posts are to be perfectly
level, and to which the bottom is to be nailed fast. As the hive is to
sit perfectly close to the board, a passage must be made through it, as
well as means for ventilation in hot weather, without raising the hive
for that purpose. It requires a board about fifteen inches square,
planed smooth, the ends clamped to prevent warping or splitting; a
portion of the centre is taken out, say six inches by ten, and wire
cloth nailed over, four-ounce tacks will hold it, fasten it just enough
to keep the bees from getting through; very likely it will want to be
taken off occasionally and cleaned from the propolis that will be
spread over it. It is easiest done in freezing weather.
Take an edge in each hand, and rock the wires a few times out of
square, and it will readily crumble and fall out. In warm weather it
must be scalded or burnt off. To close this space, a moving slide is
fixed in grooves under-side, fastened to the posts or board. The slide
is to be moved in accordance with the weather, when cold, close it,
when hot, withdraw it, and give the bees as much air as possible,
without raising the hive, the whole of such space is as much
ventilation as ordinary hives raised an inch. (Wire cloth is needed for
other purposes, it is best to procure some, even at considerable
trouble and expense.) On the side of the board intended for the front,
two inches from the edge of the wire cloth, a passage is cut for the
bees, three-eights of an inch wide, by eleven in length. "But how is
the bees to get to this place, so inconvenient, something is needed to
assist them?" Certainly, Sir; an alighting board, eleven inches wide,
and about two feet long, (not planed), is placed at an angle of
forty-five degrees, between the two front posts of your stand, the
upper end passing under the bottom, far enough back; to be just even
with the back-side of the passage for the bees. The bees alight on this
board, and walk up into the hive without difficulty. When the bees are
at work pretty freely, and a door of this hive is opened, those that
are about departing will be very likely to get on the glass, instead of
through the opening at the bottom; seeing the light through the glass,
they endeavor to escape by the nearest route. When so many gather here
as to prevent a good view, and you wish to observe further, shut the
door a moment and they will leave through their own passage, when you
can open your door again, for a short time. After the hive is filled
with combs, the number attracted to the glass on opening a door will be
much less.
The plate on the preceding page represents a glass hive, cover, and
stand. The common hive can be made equally ornamental, if you choose;
this kind of stand is unnecessary for them. I use such as are
recommended on page 138.