Eldorado

When the news of the gold strike reached New York, Horace Greeley,

editor of the _Tribune_, sent a reporter, Bayard Taylor, to visit the

mining camps. Taylor, who later became a well-known poet and travel

writer, reached San Francisco by sea in August, 1849. On his way to the

diggings he passed through Stockton:

Our first visit to Stockton was made in company, on some of Major

Graham’s choicest horses. A mettled roan _canalo_ fell to my share,

and the gallop of five miles without check was most inspiring. A view

of Stockton was something to be remembered. There, in the heart of

California, where the last winter stood a solitary ranch in the midst

of tule marshes, I found a canvas town of a thousand inhabitants, and

a port with twenty-five vessels at anchor! The mingled noises of labor

around—the click of hammers and the grating of saws—the shouts of

mule-drivers—the jingling of spurs—the jar and jostle of wares in the

tents—almost cheated me into the belief that it was some old

commercial mart, familiar with such sounds for years past. Four

months, only, had sufficed to make the place what it was; and in that

time a wholesale firm established there (one out of a dozen) had done

business to the amount of $100,000. The same party had just purchased

a lot of eighty by one hundred feet, on the principal street, for

$6,000, and the cost of erecting a common one-story clapboard house on

it was $15,000.

He continued by mule from Stockton to the diggings on the Mokelumne

River, some forty miles away. He was lodged in an open-air hotel which

consisted of two log tables, one for eating, the other for gambling. The

morning after arriving he inspected the mining operations:

I slept soundly that night on the dining-table, and went down early to

the river, where I found the party of ten bailing out the water which

had leaked into the riverbed during the night. They were standing in

the sun, and had two hours’ hard work before they could begin to wash.

Again the prospect looked uninviting, but when I went there again

towards noon, one of them was scraping up the sand from the bed with

his knife, and throwing it into a basin, the bottom of which glittered

with gold. Every knifeful brought out a quantity of grains and scales,

some of which were as large as the fingernail. At last a two-ounce

lump fell plump into the pan, and the diggers, now in the best

possible humor, went on with their work with great alacrity. Their

forenoon’s digging amounted to nearly six pounds [_an ounce of gold in

California was then worth exactly $16.00_]. It is only by such

operations as these, through associated labor, that great profits are

to be made in those districts which have been visited by the first

eager horde of gold-hunters. The deposits most easily reached are soon

exhausted by the crowd, and the labor required to carry on further

work successfully deters single individuals from attempting it. Those

who, retaining their health, return home disappointed say they have

been humbugged about the gold, when in fact they have humbugged

themselves about the work. If anyone expects to dig treasures out of

the earth, in California, without severe labor, he is woefully

mistaken. Of all classes of men, those who pave streets and quarry

limestone are best adapted for gold-diggers.

One of the principal mining operators at the Mokelumne River site, Dr.

Gillette, told Taylor how he and a companion struck it rich in a

particular gulch nearby:

One day at noon, while resting in the shade of a tree, Dr. G. took a

pick and began carelessly turning up the ground. Almost on the

surface, he struck and threw out a lump of gold of about two pounds’

weight. Inspired by this unexpected result, they both went to work,

laboring all that day and the next, and even using part of the night

to quarry out the heavy pieces of rock. At the end of the second day

they went to the village on the Upper Bar and weighed their profits,

which amounted to fourteen pounds! They started again the third

morning under pretense of hunting, but were suspected and followed by

the other diggers, who came upon them just as they commenced work. The

news rapidly spread, and there was soon a large number of men on the

spot, some of whom obtained several pounds per day, at the start. The

gulch had been well dug up for the large lumps, but there was still

great wealth in the earth and sand, and several operators only waited

for the wet season to work it in a systematic manner.

The next day Colonel Lyons, Dr. Gillette, and myself set out on a

visit to the scene of these rich discoveries. Climbing up the rocky

bottom of the gulch, as by a staircase, for four miles, we found

nearly every part of it dug up and turned over by the picks of the

miners. Deep holes, sunk between the solid strata or into the

precipitous sides of the mountains, showed where veins of the metal

had been struck and followed as long as they yielded lumps large

enough to pay for the labor. The loose earth, which they had

excavated, was full of fine gold, and only needed washing out. A

number of Sonorians were engaged in dry-washing this refuse sand—work

which requires no little skill, and would soon kill any other men than

these lank and skinny Arabs of the West. Their mode of work is as

follows: Gathering the loose dry sand in bowls, they raise it to their

heads and slowly pour it upon a blanket spread at their feet.

Repeating this several times, and throwing out the worthless pieces of

rock, they reduce the dust to about half its bulk; then, balancing the

bowl on one hand, by a quick, dexterous motion of the other they cause

it to revolve, at the same time throwing its contents into the air and

catching them as they fall. In this manner everything is finally

winnowed away except the heavier grains of sand mixed with gold, which

is carefully separated by the breath. It is a laborious occupation,

and one which, fortunately, the American diggers have not attempted.

This breathing the fine dust from day to day, under a more than torrid

sun, would soon impair the strongest lungs.

We found many persons at work in the higher part of the gulch,

searching for veins and pockets of gold, in the holes which had

already produced their first harvest. Some of these gleaners,

following the lodes abandoned by others as exhausted, into the sides

of the mountain, were well repaid for their perseverance. Others,

again, had been working for days without finding anything. Those who

understood the business obtained from one to four ounces daily. Their

only tools were the crowbar, pick, and knife, and many of them,

following the veins under strata of rock which lay deep below the

surface, were obliged to work while lying flat on their backs, in

cramped and narrow holes.

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