ALARMS IN THE HARBOUR--GETTING THE STORES ON
SHORE--ROBBERY BY NIGHT AND DAY--THE PREDATORY TRIBES OF
BALACLAVA--ACTIVITY OF THE AUTHORITIES--WE OBTAIN LEAVE
TO ERECT OUR STORE, AND FIX UPON SPRING HILL AS ITS
SITE--THE TURKISH PACHA--THE FLOOD--OUR CARPENTERS--I
BECOME AN ENGLISH SCHOOLMISTRESS ABROAD.
My life in Balaclava could not but be a rough one. The exposure by day
was enough to try any woman's strength; and at night one was not
always certain of repose. Nor was it the easiest thing to clamber up
the steep sides of the "Medora;" and more than once I narrowly escaped
a sousing in the harbour. Why it should be so difficult to climb a
ship's side, when a few more staves in the ladder, and those a little
broader, would make it so easy, I have never been able to guess. And
once on board the "Medora," my berth would not altogether have suited
a delicate female with weak nerves. It was an ammunition ship, and we
slept over barrels of gunpowder and tons of cartridges, with the by no
means impossible contingency of their prematurely igniting, and giving
us no time to say our prayers before launching us into eternity. Great
care was enjoined, and at eight o'clock every evening Captain S----
would come down, and order all lights out for the night. But I used to
put my lantern into a deep basin, behind some boxes, and so evaded the
regulation. I felt rather ashamed of this breach of discipline one
night, when another ammunition ship caught fire in the crowded
harbour, and threatened us all with speedy destruction. We all knew,
if they failed in extinguishing the fire pretty quickly, what our
chances of life were worth, and I think the bravest drew his breath
heavily at the thought of our danger. Fortunately, they succeeded in
extinguishing the firebrand before any mischief was done; but I do not
think the crew of the "Medora" slept very comfortably that night. It
was said that the Russians had employed an incendiary; but it would
have been strange if in that densely crowded harbour some accidents
had not happened without their agency.
Harassing work, indeed, was the getting our stores on shore, with the
aid of the Greek and Maltese boatmen, whose profession is thievery.
Not only did they demand exorbitant sums for the carriage, but they
contrived to rob us by the way in the most ingenious manner. Thus many
things of value were lost in the little journey from the "Albatross"
and "Nonpareil" to the shore, which had made the long voyage from
England safely. Keep as sharp a look out as I might, some package or
box would be tipped overboard by the sudden swaying of the boat, or
passing by of one of the boatmen--of course, accidentally--and no
words could induce the rascals, in their feigned ignorance of my
language, to stop; and, looking back at the helpless waif, it was not
altogether consolatory to see another boat dart from between some
shipping, where it had been waiting, as accidentally, ready to pounce
upon any such wind or waterfalls.
Still more harassing work was it to keep the things together on the
shore: often in the open light of day, while I sat there (after my
duties on the sick-wharf were over) selling stores, or administering
medicine to the men of the Land Transport and Army Works Corps, and
others, who soon found out my skill, valuable things would be
abstracted; while there was no limit to the depredations by night. Of
course we hired men to watch; but our choice of servants was very
limited, and very often those we employed not only shut their eyes to
the plunder of their companions, but helped themselves freely. The
adage, "set a thief to catch a thief," answered very badly in
Balaclava.
Sometimes Jew Johnny would volunteer to watch for the night; and glad
I was when I knew that the honest lynx-eyed fellow was there. One
night he caught a great-limbed Turk making off with a firkin of butter
and some other things. The fellow broke away from Johnny's grasp with
the butter, but the lad marked him down to his wretched den, behind
the engineers' quarters, and, on the following morning, quietly
introduced me to the lazy culprit, who was making up for the partial
loss of his night's rest among as evil-looking a set of comrades as I
have ever seen. There was a great row, and much indignation shown at
the purpose of my visit; but I considered myself justified in calling
in the aid of one of the Provost marshal's officers, and, in the
presence of this most invaluable official, a confession was soon made.
Beneath the fellow's dirty bed, the butter was found buried; and, in
its company, a two-dozen case of sherry, which the rogue had, in
flagrant defiance of the Prophet's injunction, stolen for his own
private drinking, a few nights previously.
The thievery in this little out-of-the way port was something
marvellous; and the skill and ingenuity of the operators would have
reflected credit upon the _elite_ of their profession practising in
the most civilized city of Europe. Nor was the thievery confined
altogether to the professionals, who had crowded to this scene of
action from the cities and islands of the Mediterranean. They robbed
us, the Turks, and one another; but a stronger hand was sometimes laid
on them. The Turk, however, was sure to be the victim, let who might
be the oppressor.
In this predatory warfare, as in more honourable service, the Zouaves
particularly distinguished themselves. These undoubtedly gallant
little fellows, always restless for action, of some sort, would, when
the luxury of a brash with the Russians was occasionally denied them,
come down to Balaclava, in search of opportunities of waging war
against society at large. Their complete and utter absence of
conscientious scruples as to the rights of property was most amusing.
To see a Zouave gravely cheat a Turk, or trip up a Greek
street-merchant, or Maltese fruit-seller, and scud away with the
spoil, cleverly stowed in his roomy red pantaloons, was an operation,
for its coolness, expedition, and perfectness, well worth seeing. And,
to a great extent, they escaped scatheless, for the English Provost
marshal's department was rather chary of interfering with the
eccentricities of our gallant allies; while if the French had taken
close cognizance of the Zouaves' amusements out of school, one-half of
the regiments would have been always engaged punishing the other half.
The poor Turk! it is lamentable to think how he was robbed, abused,
and bullied by his friends. Why didn't he show a little pluck? There
wasn't a rough sailor, or shrewd boy--the English boy, in all his
impudence and prejudice, flourished in Balaclava--who would not gladly
have patted him upon the back if he would but have held up his head,
and shown ever so little spirit. But the Englishman cannot understand
a coward--will scarcely take the trouble to pity him; and even the
craven Greek could lord it over the degenerate descendants of the
fierce Arabs, who--so they told me on the spot--had wrested
Constantinople from the Christians, in those old times of which I know
so little. Very often an injured Turk would run up to where I sat, and
stand there, wildly telegraphing his complaints against some
villainous-looking Greek, or Italian, whom a stout English lad would
have shaken out of his dirty skin in five minutes.
Once, however, I saw the tables turned. As the anecdote will help to
illustrate the relative positions of the predatory tribes of
Balaclava, I will narrate it. Hearing one morning a louder hubbub than
was usual upon the completion of a bargain, and the inevitable
quarrelling that always followed, I went up to where I saw an excited
crowd collected around a Turk, in whose hands a Greek was struggling
vainly. This Greek had, it seemed, robbed his enemy, but the Turk was
master this time, and had, in order to force from the robber a
confession of the place where the stolen things were deposited (like
dogs, as they were, these fellows were fond of burying their plunder),
resorted to torture. This was effected most ingeniously and simply by
means of some packthread, which, bound round the Greek's two thumbs,
was tightened on the tourniquet principle, until the pain elicited a
confession. But the Turk, stimulated to retaliation by his triumph,
bagged the Greek's basket, which contained amongst other things two
watches, which their present owner had no doubt stolen. Driven to the
most ludicrous show of despair, the Greek was about to attempt another
desperate struggle for the recovery of his goods, when two Zouaves
elbowed their small persons upon the crowded stage, and were eagerly
referred to by all the parties concerned in the squabble. How they
contrived it, I cannot say, so prompt were their movements; but, in a
very few minutes, the watches were in their possession, and going much
faster than was agreeable either to Turk or Greek, who both combined
to arrest this new movement, and thereby added a sharp thrashing to
their other injuries. The Zouaves effected their escape safely, while
the Greek, with a despair that had in it an equal share of the
ludicrous and the tragic, threw himself upon the dusty ground, and
tore his thin hair out by handfuls. I believe that the poor wretch,
whom we could not help pitying, journeyed to Kamiesch, to discover his
oppressors; but I fear he didn't gain much information there.
Had it not been for the unremitting activity of the authorities, no
life would have been safe in Balaclava, with its population of
villains of every nation. As it was, murder was sometimes added to
robbery, and many of the rascals themselves died suspicious deaths,
with the particulars of which the authorities did not trouble
themselves. But the officials worked hard, both in the harbour and on
shore, to keep order; few men could have worked harder. I often saw
the old grey-haired Admiral about before the sun had fairly shown
itself; and those of his subordinates must have been somewhat heavy
sleepers who could play the sluggard then.
At length the necessary preparations to establish our store were made.
We hit upon a spot about two miles from Balaclava, in advance of
Kadikoi, close to where the railway engines were stationed, and within
a mile of head-quarters. Leave having been obtained to erect buildings
here, we set to work briskly, and soon altered the appearance of
Spring Hill--so we christened our new home. Sometimes on horseback,
sometimes getting a lift on the commissariat carts, and occasionally
on the ammunition railway-waggons, I managed to visit Spring Hill
daily, and very soon fitted up a shed sufficiently large to take up my
abode in. But the difficulty of building our store was immense. To
obtain material was next to impossible; but that collected (not a
little was, by leave of the Admiral, gleaned from the floating rubbish
in the harbour), to find workmen to make use of it was still more
difficult. I spent days going round the shipping, offering great
wages, even, for an invalid able to handle saw and hammer, however
roughly, and many a long ride through the camps did I take on the same
errand. At length, by dint of hard canvassing, we obtained the aid of
two English sailors, whom I nicknamed "Big and Little Chips," and some
Turks, and set to work in good earnest.
I procured the Turks from the Pacha who commanded the division
encamped in the neighbourhood of Spring Hill. It was decided that we
should apply to him for help, and accordingly I became ambassadress on
this delicate mission, and rode over to the Pacha's quarters, Jew
Johnny attending me as interpreter. I was received by the Pacha with
considerable kindness and no trifling amount of formality, and after
taking coffee I proceeded, through Jew Johnny, to explain the object
of my visit, while his Excellency, a tall man, with a dark pleasing
face, smoked gravely, and took my request into his gracious
consideration.
On the following day came the answer to my request, in the persons of
two curious Turkish carpenters, who were placed at our orders. After a
little while, too, a Turkish officer, whom I christened Captain Ali
Baba, took so great an interest in our labours that he would work like
any carpenter, and with a delight and zeal that were astonishing. To
see him fall back, and look smilingly at every piece of his
workmanship, was a sight to restore the most severely tried temper. I
really think that the good-hearted fellow thought it splendid fun, and
never wearied of it. But for him I do not know how we should have
managed with our other Turkish "chips"--chips of the true old Turkish
block they were--deliberate, slow, and indolent, breaking off into
endless interruptions for the sacred duties of eating and praying, and
getting into out-of-the-way corners at all times of the day to smoke
themselves to sleep.
In the midst of our work a calamity occurred, which was very nearly
becoming a catastrophe. By the giving way of a dam, after some heavy
rains, the little stream which threaded its silvery way past Spring
Hill swelled without any warning into a torrent, which, sweeping
through my temporary hut, very nearly carried us all away, and
destroyed stores of between one and two hundred pounds in value. This
calamity might have had a tragical issue for me, for seeing a little
box which contained some things, valuable as relics of the past, being
carried away, I plunged in after it, and losing my balance, was rolled
over and over by the stream, and with some difficulty reached the
shore. Some of Lord Raglan's staff passing our wreck on the following
day, made inquiries respecting the loss we had sustained, and a
messenger was sent from head-quarters, who made many purchases, in
token of their sympathy.
My visit to the Turkish Pacha laid the foundation of a lasting
friendship. He soon found his way to Spring Hill, and before long
became one of my best customers and most frequent visitors. It was
astonishing to note how completely, now that he was in the land of the
Giaours, he adapted himself to the tastes and habits of the infidels.
Like a Scotch Presbyterian, on the Continent for a holiday, he threw
aside all the prejudices of his education, and drank bottled beer,
sherry, and champagne with an appreciation of their qualities that no
thirsty-souled Christian could have expressed more gratefully. He was
very affable with us all, and would sometimes keep Jew Johnny away
from his work for hours, chatting with us or the English officers who
would lounge into our as yet unfinished store. Sometimes he would come
down to breakfast, and spend the greater part of the day at Spring
Hill. Indeed, the wits of Spring Hill used to laugh, and say that the
crafty Pacha was throwing his pocket-handkerchief at Madame Seacole,
widow; but as the honest fellow candidly confessed he had three wives
already at home, I acquit him of any desire to add to their number.
The Pacha's great ambition was to be familiar with the English
language, and at last nothing would do but he must take lessons of me.
So he would come down, and sitting in my store, with a Turk or so at
his feet, to attend to his most important pipe, by inserting little
red-hot pieces of charcoal at intervals, would try hard to sow a few
English sentences in his treacherous memory. He never got beyond half
a dozen; and I think if we had continued in the relation of pupil and
mistress until now, the number would not have been increased greatly.
"Madame Seacole," "Gentlemen, good morning," and "More champagne,"
with each syllable much dwelt upon, were his favourite sentences. It
was capital fun to hear him, when I was called away suddenly to attend
to a customer, or to give a sick man medicine, repeating gravely the
sentence we had been studying, until I passed him, and started him
with another.
Very frequently he would compliment me by ordering his band down to
Spring Hill for my amusement. They played excellently well, and I used
to think that I preferred their music to that of the French and
English regimental bands. I laughed heartily one day, when, in
compliance with the kind-hearted Anglo-Turkish Pacha's orders, they
came out with a grand new tune, in which I with difficulty recognised
a very distant resemblance to "God save the Queen."
Altogether he was a capital neighbour, and gave such strict orders to
his men to respect our property that we rarely lost anything. On the
whole, the Turks were the most honest of the nations there (I except
the English and the Sardinians), and the most tractable. But the
Greeks hated them, and showed their hate in every way. In bringing up
things for the Pacha's use they would let the mules down, and smash
their loads most relentlessly. Now and then they suffered, as was the
case one day when I passed through the camp and saw my friend
superintending the correction of a Greek who was being bastinadoed. It
seemed a painful punishment.
I was sorry, therefore, when my friend's division was ordered to
Kamara, and we lost our neighbours. But my pupil did not forget his
schoolmistress. A few days after they had left the neighbourhood of
Spring Hill came a messenger, with a present of lambs, poultry, and
eggs, and a letter, which I could not decipher, as many of the
interpreters could speak English far better than they could write it.
But we discovered that the letter contained an invitation, to Mr. Day
and myself, to go over to Kamara, and select from the spoil of the
village anything that might be useful in our new buildings. And a few
days later came over a large araba, drawn by four mules, and laden
with a pair of glass-doors, and some window-frames, which the
thoughtful kind Pacha had judged--and judged rightly--would be a very
acceptable present. And very often the good-natured fellow would ride
over from Kamara, and resume his acquaintance with myself and my
champagne, and practise his English sentences.
We felt the loss of our Turkish neighbours in more ways than one. The
neighbourhood, after their departure, was left lonely and unprotected,
and it was not until a division of the Land Transport Corps came and
took up their quarters near us, that I felt at all secure of personal
safety. Mr. Day rarely returned to Spring Hill until nightfall
relieved him from his many duties, and I depended chiefly upon two
sailors, both of questionable character, two black servants, Jew
Johnny, and my own reputation for determination and courage--a poor
delusion, which I took care to heighten by the judicious display of a
double-barrelled pistol, lent me for the purpose by Mr. Day, and which
I couldn't have loaded to save my life.