CHAPTER XVIII.

WHEN THE SUN GOES DOWN.

"I saw Eternity the other night

Like a great ring of pure and endless light,

All calm, as it was bright:--

And round beneath it, time in hours, days, years,

Driven by the spheres,

Like a vast shadow moved, in which the world

And all her train were hurl'd."

HENRY VAUGHAN.

It is the end of May; a bright, rainless, and at times bitterly cold

month it has been. But now the chill east wind has almost died away.

Summer has come at last. Once more I am making for the Downs. Very

seldom am I there at this period of the year; but before going away for

several months, I bethought me that I would go and inspect the

improvements at the fox-covert, stopping on my way at the "Jubilee"

gorse covert we lately planted, to see if there is a litter of cubs

there this year. Across the fields we go, ankle deep in buttercups and

clover at one moment, then up the hedge to avoid treading the half-grown

barley. We are so accustomed to take a bee-line across these shooting

grounds of ours that we quite forget that the farmer would not thank us

for trampling down his crops at the end of May. But soon we are on the

Downs, well out of harm's way and far removed from highroads and

footpaths. What a glorious panorama lies all around! Why do we not come

here oftener in summer?--the country is ten times more lovely then than

it is in the shooting season. A field of sainfoin in June, with its

glorious blossoms of pink, is one of the prettiest sights in all

creation. Seen in the distance, amid a setting of green wheatfields and

verdant pastures, it ripples in the garish light of the summer sun like

a lake of rubies.

"Land and sea

Give themselves up to jollity;

And with the heart of May

Doth every beast keep holiday."

Ah! there will be lots of foxes when the hounds come to the fox-covert

next October. The unpleasant smell at the mouth of the earth tells us

that there are cubs there; and as we stand over it we can hear them

playing down below in the bowels of mother earth. Very distinct, too,

are the tracks--_traffic_, the keeper calls them--leading by sundry

well-trodden paths to the dell below--a nice sunny dell, facing

south-west, where in spring the violets and primroses grow among the

spreading elder. These cubs were not born here. Their mother brought

them from an old hollow stump of a tree by the river, half a mile away.

When she found her lair discovered by an angler who happened to pass

that way, she brought them across the river by the narrow footbridge

right up here on to the hill. The cubs from the tree have disappeared,

so no doubt these are the ones. Well, there are lots of rabbits for

them; the little fellows are popping about all over the place.

How tame all wild animals become in the summer!--all except the ones we

want to circumvent--magpies, jays, stoats, and such small deer. Lapwings

fly round us, crying restlessly, "Go away, go away!" Their shrill treble

accents remind one of a baby's squall. Pigeons and ringdoves, partridges

and hares seem to be plentiful "as blackberries in September." A

gorgeous cock pheasant crows and jumps up close to us, followed by his

mate. This is a pleasing sight up here, for they are wild birds. There

has been no rearing done in these copses on the hills within the

memory of man.

Tom Peregrine suddenly appears out of a hedge, where he has been

watching the antics of the cubs at the mouth of the fox-earth. He has

grown very serious of late, and tells you repeatedly that there is going

to be another big European war shortly. Let us hope his gloomy

forebodings are doomed to disappointment. Surely, surely at the end of

this marvellous nineteenth century, when there are so many men in the

world who have learnt the difficult lessons of life in a way that they

have never been learnt before, nations are no longer obliged to behave

like children, or worse still, with their petty jealousies and

bickerings and growlings, "like dogs that delight to bark and bite."

Tom Peregrine, having done but little work for many months, is now

making himself really useful, for a change, by copying out parts of this

great work; and, to do him justice, he writes a capital, clear hand. He

is very anxious to become secretary to "some great gentleman," he says.

If any of my readers require a sporting secretary, I can confidently

recommend him as a man of "plain sense rather than of much learning, of

a sociable temper, and one that understands a little of backgammon."

There is no fear of his "insulting you with Latin and Greek at your own

table." He would have suited Sir Roger capitally for a chaplain, I often

tell him; and though he hasn't a notion who Sir Roger may be, he

thoroughly enjoys the joke.

The fox-covert presents a strange appearance. It is full of young spruce

trees, and the lower branches have been lopped down, but not cut through

or killed. Under each tree there is now a grand hiding-place for foxes

and rabbits--a sort of big umbrella turned topsy-turvy. The rabbits

appreciate the pains we have been at; but I fear the foxes, for whom it

was intended, at present look on the shelter with suspicion. They

dislike the gum which oozes continually from the gashes in the bark; it

sticks to their coats, and gives an unpleasant sensation when they

roll. They cannot keep their beautiful coats sleek and glossy, as is

their invariable rule, as long as their is any gum sticking to them.

How clearly we can see the Swindon Hills in the bright evening

atmosphere! They must be more than twenty miles away. The grand old

White Horse, making the spot where long, long ago the Danes were

vanquished in fight, is not visible; but he is scarcely to be seen at

all now, as the lazy Berkshire people have neglected their duty. He

really must be scoured again this summer; he is a national institution.

Londoners take a much greater interest in him than do the honest folk

who live bang under his nose.

We must continue our excavations at Ladbarrow copse yonder. Men say it

is the largest barrow in the county, full of "golden coffins" and all

sorts of priceless antiquities! At present all we have discovered are

some bones, with which we stuffed our pockets. When we arrived home,

however, they were found to have belonged to a poor old sheep-dog that

was buried there. But see! the setting sun is tinging the tops of the

slender, shapely ash trees in yonder emerald copse. The whole plain is

changing from a vast arena of golden splendour to a mysterious shadowy

land of dreams. A fierce light still reveals every object on the hill

towards the east; but westwards beneath yon purple ridge all is wrapped

in dim, ambiguous shade.

It is sad to think that I alone of mortal men should be here to see this

glorious panorama. It seems such a waste of nature's bounteous store

that night after night this wondrous spectacle should be solemnly

displayed, with no better gallery than a stray shepherd, who, as he

"homeward plods his weary way," cares little for the grand drama that is

being performed entirely for his benefit. Nature is indeed prodigal of

her charms in out-of-the-way country places.

Sometimes whilst walking over these remote fields on summer evenings, I

have stopped to ask myself this question: Is it possible that these

exquisite wild flowers, these groves and dells of verdant tracery, these

birds with their priceless music, and these wondrous, ineffable effects

of light and shade which form part of the everyday pageant of English

rural scenery are doomed "to waste their sweetness on the desert air"?

Is it possible (to go further afield) that those lovely scenes in

Wales--the fairy glens near Bettws-y-Coed, or the luxuriant valleys of

Carmarthen, further south, where silvery Towey flows below the stately

ruins of Dynevor Castle; those romantic reaches on the Wye, from

Chepstow to the frowning hills of Brecon; those solitary, but

unspeakably grand, mountains and passes of the Highlands, such as

Glencoe, Ben Nevis, or those of the scarcely explored Hebrides; those

smiling waters of the lovely Trossachs; those countless spots in the

"Emerald Isle" that the tourist has never seen, whether in fertile

Wicklow or among the whispering woods and weird waters of the west;

those gorgeous forests of Ceylon; those interminable jungles of the

beautiful East, with their unknown depths of tropical splendour;--is it

possible that these scenes of wondrous beauty are inhabited and enjoyed

by nothing more than is visible to our limited mortal gaze?

I believed, as a boy, and with a romance still unsubdued by time I would

yet fain believe, that when the soul of man escapes from the poor

tenement of clay in which it has been pent up for some threescore years

and ten, it has not far to go. I would fain believe that heaven is not

only above us, but, in some form or other entirely beyond our mortal

ken, all around us, in every beautiful thing we see; that these hills

and vales, these woods of delicately wrought fan-tracery groining, these

mazes of golden light when the sun goes down, are peopled not alone by

human flesh and blood. "There are also terrestrial bodies, and bodies

celestial. But the glory of the celestial is one, and the glory of the

terrestrial is another."

Who can imagine the shape or form of the immortal soul? As I walked over

those golden fields to-night it seemed as if there were spirits all

around me--glorious, bright spirits of the dead--invisible, intangible,

like rays of pure light, in the clear atmosphere of those Elysian

fields. I cannot but believe that there arise from the secret parts of

this beautiful earth, at dawn of day and at eventide, other voices

besides the ineffable songs of birds, the rustling murmurs that whisper

in the woods, and the plaintive babbling of the brooks--hymns of unknown

depths of harmony, impossible to describe, because impossible to

imagine--crying night and day: "Blessing, and honour, and glory, and

power be unto Him that sitteth upon the throne and unto the Lamb for

ever and ever."

Yes, dear reader,

"Though inland far we be,

Our souls have sight of that immortal sea

Which brought us hither."

When the sun goes down, if you will turn for a little while from the

noise and clamour of the busy world, you shall list to those voices

ringing, ringing in your ears. Words of comfort shall you hear at

eventide, "and sorrow and sadness shall be no more,"--even though, as

the years roll on, perforce you cry, with Wordsworth:

"What though the radiance which was once so bright

Be now for ever taken from my sight,

Though nothing can bring back the hour

Of splendour in the grass, of glory in the flower,

We will grieve not, rather find

Strength in what remains behind;

In the primal sympathy

Which having been must ever be;

In the soothing thoughts that spring

Out of human suffering;

In the faith that looks through death,

In years that bring the philosophic mind."

THE END.

APPENDIX.

GEORGE RIDLER'S OVEN.

(_Note from the papers of the Gloucestershire Society_)

It is now generally understood that the words of this song have a hidden

meaning which was only known to the members of the Gloucestershire

Society, whose foundation dates from the year 1657. This was three years

before the restoration of Charles II. and when the people were growing

weary of the rule of Oliver Cromwell. The Society consisted of

Loyalists, whose object in combining was to be prepared to aid in the

restoration of the ancient constitution of the kingdom whenever a

favourable opportunity should present itself. The Cavalier or Royalist

party were supported by the Roman Catholics of the old and influential

families of the kingdom; and some of the Dissenters, who were disgusted

with the treatment they received from Cromwell, occasionally lent them a

kind of passive aid. Taking these considerations as the keynote to the

song, attempts have been made to discover the meaning which was

originally attached to its leading words. It is difficult at the present

time to give a clear explanation of all its points. The following,

however, is consistent throughout, and is, we believe, correct:--

"The stwuns that built Gaarge Ridler's oven,

And thauy qeum from the Bleakeney's Quaar;

And Gaarge he wur a jolly ould mon,

And his yead it graw'd above his yare."

By "George Ridler" was meant King Charles I. The "oven" was the Cavalier

party. The "stwuns" which built the oven, and which "came out of the

Blakeney Quaar," were the immediate followers of the Marquis of

Worcester, who held out to the last steadfastly for the royal cause at

Raglan Castle, which was not surrendered till 1646, and was, in fact,

the last stronghold retained for the king. "His head did grow above his

hair" was an allusion to the crown, the head of the State, and which the

king wore "above his hair."

"One thing of Gaarge Ridler's I must commend,

And that wur vor a notable theng;

He mead his braags avoore he died,

Wi' any dree brothers his zons zshou'd zeng."

This meant that the king, "before he died," boasted that notwithstanding

his present adversity, the ancient constitution of the kingdom was so

good and its vitality so great that it would surpass and outlive any

other form of government, whether republican, despotic, or protective.

"There's Dick the treble and John the mean

(Let every mon zing in his auwn pleace);

And Gaarge he wur the elder brother,

And therevoore he would zing the beass."

"Dick the treble, Jack the mean, and George the bass" meant the three

parts of the British constitution--King, Lords, and Commons. The

injunction to "let every man sing in his own place" was intended as a

warning to each of the three estates of the realm to preserve its proper

position and not to attempt to encroach on each other's prerogative.

"Mine hostess's moid (and her neaum 'twur Nell),

A pretty wench, and I lov'd her well;

I lov'd her well--good reauzon why,

Because zshe lov'd my dog and I."

"Mine hostess's moid" was an allusion to the queen, who was a Roman

Catholic; and her maid, the Church. The singer, we must suppose, was one

of the leaders of the party, and his "dog" a companion or faithful

official of the Society; and the song was sung on occasions when the

members met together socially: and thus, as the Roman Catholics were

Royalists, the allusion to the mutual attachment between the "maid" and

"my dog and I" is plain and consistent.

"My dog has gotten zitch a trick

To visit moids when thauy be zick;

When thauy be zick and like to die,

Oh, thether gwoes my dog and I."

The "dog"--that is, the official or devoted member of the Society--had

"a trick of visiting maids when they were sick." The meaning here was

that when any of the members were in distress, or desponding, or likely

to give up the royal cause in despair, the officials or active members

visited, consoled, and assisted them.

"My dog is good to catch a hen,--

A duck and goose is vood vor men;

And where good company I spy,

Oh, thether gwoes my dog and I."

The "dog," the official or agent of the Society, was "good to catch a

hen," a "duck," or a "goose"--that is, any who were well affected to the

royal cause of whatever party; wherever "good company I spy, Oh, thither

go my dog and I"--to enlist members into the Society.

"My mwother told I when I wur young,

If I did vollow the strong beer pwoot,

That drenk would pruv my auverdrow,

And meauk me wear a thzreadbare cwoat."

"The good ale-tap" was an allusion, under cover of a similarity in the

sound of the words "ale" and "aisle," to the Church, of which it was

dangerous at that time to be an avowed follower, and so the members were

cautioned that indiscretion would lead to their discovery and

"overthrow."

"When I hev dree zixpences under my thumb,

Oh, then I be welcome wherever I qeum

But when I have none, oh, then I pass by,--

'Tis poverty pearts good company."

The allusion here is to those unfaithful supporters of the royal cause

who "welcomed" the members of the Society when it appeared to be

prospering, but "parted" from them in adversity, probably referring

ironically to those lukewarm and changeable Dissenters who veered about,

for and against, as Cromwell favoured or contemned them. Such could

always be had wherever there were "three sixpence-under the thumb"; but

"poverty" easily parted such "good company."

"When I gwoes dead, as it may hap,

My greauve shall be under the good yeal tap;

In vouled earmes there wool us lie,

Cheek by jowl, my dog and I."

"If I should die," etc.--an expression of the singer's wish that if he

should die he may be buried with his faithful companion (as representing

the principles of the Society) under the good aisles of the church, thus

evincing his loyalty and attachment to the good old constitution and to

Church and king even in death.

INDEX

Abbey, Edwin

Ablington Manor

Acman Street

Aethelhum, the Saxon

Agriculture

Alder tree

Aldsworth and Oliver Cromwell

Alfred, King

Amphitheatre, Roman

Ampney Park

Angelus, the

Antiquity, charm of

_Arbor Diana_

Architecture, Elizabethan

Aristotle

Arlington Row

Artificial fox-earths

Austin, Alfred

Badgers

Bampton-in-the-Bush

Barnby, Joseph

Barns, tithe

Barometer

Barrows, ancient

Bathurst family

Bathurst, Lord

Battues

Bazley, Sir Thomas

Bettws-y-Coed

Bibury Races

Bibury village

Bigotphones

Blowing-stone, the

Bourton-on-the-Water

Bowly, Mrs. Christopher

Brassey, Albert, M.F.H.

Braydon Forest

Bromley-Davenport, W.

Buckland, Frank

Bull-ring, Roman

Burford

Burton on the Cotswolds

Cadge for hawks

Caesar, Julius

Camps, ancient British

Carlyle, Thomas

Cassey-Compton Manor House

Caves, prehistoric

Characters, village

Charles I.

Charles II.

Charlock

Chaucer

Chavenage

Chedworth

Chepstow, the Wye at

Chiltern Hills

Chivalry, ancient

Choirs, village

"Christmas Carol," Austin's

Christmas festivities

Church ales

Churchwardens

Cirencester

Civil Wars

Clarendon on Falkland

Climate of the Cotswolds

Coats-of-arms

Coffins, old stone

Coln, River

Coln-St.-Aldwyns

Coln-St.-Dennis

Conyger wood

Corinium Museum

Corncrakes, disappearance of

Coulson, Colonel, his trap

County cricket

Coursing on the Cotswolds

Cray-fish

Creswell family

Cricket pitch, how to improve

Cricket, prehistoric

Cricket, the game of

Cripps, Wilfred, C.B.

Crosses, wayside

Cub-hunting

Cubs, fox

Cudgel-playing, old-fashioned

Curlews

Cushats

Deadman's Acre

Deerhounds, Scotch

De Quincey

Derby Day on the Coln

De Vere, Aubrey

Dew

Dew-point

Dialect, Cotswold

Dickens, Charles, on cricket

Dogs

Downs, the mystery of the

Dream, Shakespeare's

Dress, simplicity in

Drayton, Michael

Dry-fly fishing

Ducks, wild

Duleep Singh at Hatherop

Dun, olive

Dürer, Albert

Earthquake of 1895

Earths for foxes

_Écrevisse_

Eel, curious capture of

Elder tree

Eldon, Lord

"Elegy," Gray's

Elizabeth, Queen, at Burford

Elms

"England, Merrie"

Escutcheons

Evening fishing

Excursion, Roger Plowman's

Fairwood

Falconry, the art of

Falkland, Lord, at Burford

Farmers, Cotswold

Feasts, ancient

Ferns growing on ash tree

Fieldfare, return of the

Field names

Firr, Tom

Flails, old-fashioned

Flanders mares

Flies, artificial

Flocks of lapwings

Flowers, wild

Fly-catcher, the

"Flying Dutchman"

Forest, Braydon

Forest, Savernake

Fossbridge

Fosseway

Fox-earths

Foxes

Fozbrooke

Free Foresters' Cricket Club

Galway nags

Gamekeeper, the

Gannet

Garden, an old

Garne of Aldsworth

Geese, wild

"George Ridler's Oven"

Gilbert White

Gilpin, John

Gipsies

Gloucestershire dialect

Glow-worms

Goethe (quoted)

Golf greens, treatment of

Gothic architecture

Grace, W.G.

Grasshoppers, Burke on

Gray's "Elegy"

Green-drake

Greyhound fox

Grounds, treatment of cricket

Gwynne, Nell, at Bibury Races

Hall, King Alfred's

Hallam, Arthur

Halo, solar

Hamilton, Sir William Rowan

Hangman's Stone, origin of

Hard riders

Hares

Harvest home

Hawking described

Hawks

Hedgehogs

Henry VIII.

Heraldry

Herbs

Herons

Hicks-Beach, Right Hon. Sir Michael

Hic-wall or heckle

Hill, White Horse

Hills, Jem

Hobbs of Maiseyhampton

Horse, description of

Horse for the Cotswolds

Hounds, Badminton

Hounds, Bombay

Hounds, Heythrop

Hounds, Lord Bathurst's

Hounds, Mr. T.B. Miller's

Hounds, Shakespeare on

Hunting, fox-

Hunting poem

Hunting, stag-, in olden times

Huntsman, a good

Hygrometer

Hymns

Hypocaust, Roman

Icknield Street

Implements, old stone

Inscribed stones (Roman)

Inscription on porch of manor house

Irmin Way

Irving, Washington (quoted)

Isaac Walton

Jansen, Cornelius, painter

Jefferies, Richard

Johnson, Dr.

Joyce on Fairford windows

Keble, John, at Fairford

Kelmscott

Kemble

Kestrel

Kingfishers

Kingmaker, the

Kipling, Rudyard

Kite, artificial

Knights Templar

Labourers, Cotswold

Lapwings

Larder, vixen's

Leland

Lenthall, Speaker

Leslie, G.

Limestone quarries,

Llewelyn, W. Dillwyn

Loam, use of clay or

Macomber Falls

Macpherson and Ossian

Madden, Right Hon. D.H.

Magpies

Mallard, a pugnacious

Manor parchments

Manuscript, an ancient

Marsh-harrier

Marsh-marigold

Master, Chester, family of

Maxwell, Sir Herbert

May flies

May-fly season

"Merrie England"

Meteor, a large

Miller, T.B., M.F.H.

Miller, the village

Monk, W.J., on Burford

Moorhens, habits of

Mop, Cirencester

Moreton-in-the-Marsh

Morris, William

Mounds, ancient burial

Mummers' play

Museums, Roman

Musicians, old village

Natal, scenery of

Nest, kingfisher's

Netting trout

Newton, Isaac

Nightjar or goatsucker

Night on the hills

Nimrod on Bibury Races

_Noblesse oblige_

Northleach

Oak, old

Oliver Cromwell

Oman's discovery

Ossian

"Oven, George Ridler's"

Owls

Oxen, ploughing with

Partridges

"Parvise," the

Pavements, Roman

Penance at Burford

Peregrine falcons

Peregrine, Thomas, keeper

Pheasants

Pigeon-shooting

Playing-fields, Eton

Pliny

"Plestor," the

Ploughing with oxen

Plover, common

Plover, golden

Plowman, Roger, goes to London

Poachers, scarcity of

Poges, Stoke

Political meetings

Politicians, village

Pope at Cirencester

Pottery, Roman

Prehistoric cricket

Prehistoric relics

Prescription, an excellent

Proverbs, Gloucestershire

Puffin

Quack, the village

Quails

Quarries, limestone

Quenington

Querns, the

Races, Bibury

Ramparts, ancient

Ready Token

Retrievers

Riders, good

Riding, hard

Roads, limestone

Roger de Coverley, Sir

Roman remains

Rookery, the

Rupert, Prince

Ruskin, John

Sainfoin

Sargent, J.

Savernake

Scent of foxes

Scotch deerhound

Scott, Lady Margaret

Scouring the White Horse

Shakespeare on the Cotswolds

Sheep, Cotswold

Sheep-washing

Sherborne House

Sherborne, Lord

Shooting, covert-

Sly, Isaac

Snake eaten by trout

Snipe

Solan goose

Solar halo

Songs, Gloucestershire

South Africa, wolds of

Sparrow-club

Spawn-beds of trout

_Spectator_, the

Sportsman, definition of a good

Spring flowers

Springs, Cotswold

Squirrels

Stag-hunting, wild

Stage-coach

Stoats

Stone age, relics of

Stowell

Stow-on-the-Wold

Sunsets described

Swans

Tame, John

Tanfield family

Teal

Tennyson

Terrier, fox-

Tesselated pavements

Thames

Thrashing

Thrush, song of

Tiercel-gentle

Tithe

Tithe barns

"Tolsey," the

Traps, vermin

Travess, Charles

Trees, beauty of ash

Trossachs, the

Trout eating snake

Trout, habits of

"Tuer," a

Turnip hower, the

Umpires, village

Uncertainty, charm of

Urns, sepulchral

Vale, Berkshire

Vale of White Horse Hounds

Valley, Coln

Valley, Thames

Victorian Era

Voles, water

Waller's pictures

Walnut tree in spring

Warwick, the kingmaker

Wasps, a plague of

Watercress

Wayside crosses

Weasels

Westbury White Horse

Wharfe, River

White Horse Hill

Whitsun ale

Whitsuntide sports

Whyte-Melville

Wildfowl

Williamstrip

Wimbrels,

Windrush, River

Wines, home-made

Winson village

Woodpeckers

Wood-pigeons

Wordsworth

Wren, Christopher

Yaffel

Yuletide

Zingari Cricket Club

Zodiacal light

A Cotswold Village; Or, Country Life and Pursuits in Gloucestershire · 第 18 / 18 章