THE PEOPLE AT PLAY
S-p-o-r-t is the word you will find at the head of the sporting columns
of the Spanish, as well as English newspapers, in Argentina. This
word has been transferred over bodily, as no term in Spanish exactly
expressed the meaning of the English word sport. Baseball has not yet
become popular and cricket is little understood by the Argentinians, but
they are passionately fond of the turf, and horse racing is perhaps the
favourite sport of all classes. It is not the excitement of the racing
alone that appeals to the Argentinian, but the opportunity it gives for
indulging in his love of betting. Argentina possesses some of the finest
horse flesh in the world, and sales of favourites oftentimes take place
at almost fabulous prices.
Sixty millions is a tidy little sum to be placed upon horses in one year.
And yet that is the amount staked upon the races in the city of Buenos
Aires last year, according to the municipal statistics of that city.
Estimating the population at one million, two hundred thousand, this is
an average of fifty Argentine dollars for each man, woman and child in
that great city. Naturally the reported figures do not include all the
money that is wagered on the horse racing, so that it is impossible to
give the total amount of the bets, but it was undoubtedly several million
dollars in addition to the above sum. Reducing the figures to American
money, the wagers would represent twenty-five million, eight hundred
thousand dollars in gold coin with the American eagle stamped on the
back.
[Illustration: THE HIPPODROMO, BUENOS AIRES]
The race track of Buenos Aires, called the Hippodromo, is a monopoly of
the Jockey Club in that city. This club is an exception to the general
run of clubs in the world, for it has more money than it knows what to
do with. The troublesome surplus in the bank is the only problem that
bothers the board of directors, and it is bringing gray hairs to their
devoted heads. A half million dollars (an Argentine dollar is worth
forty-three cents) is devoted to charity each year, but that is only a
small part of its income. Ten per cent. of the total amount of stakes
on the races is the property of the club. This, together with the gate
receipts and membership dues, gives the Jockey Club an enormous income,
running up very close to eight figures. The several hundred members
each pay dues amounting to fifteen hundred dollars annually, and the
initiation fee is four thousand dollars. The membership is always
full, and there is a long waiting list of eligibles. About a year ago
a proposition was seriously discussed by the club to purchase a dozen
blocks right in the heart of the city, construct a broad and beautiful
boulevard through it and make a present of the improvement to the city.
The estimated cost was in the neighbourhood of fourteen million dollars.
When the proposition came to a vote it was lost by only five votes. It
was defeated, too, not on account of the cost, but simply on the question
of the advisability or practicability of such a scheme. The club had the
money on hand, and they are now worrying themselves again as to what to
do with it.
The home of the Jockey Club is a rather unpretentious-looking building on
the narrow Calle Florida, in the very heart of the city. The interior,
however, is magnificent. As one enters the massive doors, a marble
staircase faces you, which is the boast of the members and the pride of
Buenos Aires. Then there are dining-rooms, reception-rooms, parlours and
all the other apartments required in such an establishment. All of these
rooms are fitted and furnished regardless of cost, and with the artistic
taste which is inherent with the Latin races, so that it will compare
favourably with any palace in Europe. The banquet-room is fitted with
a circular table, with a running fountain in the centre. This table is
so made that it can be arranged to seat twenty people, or enlarged to
accommodate a hundred, and still be a perfect circle. I had the pleasure
of dining in the club with the American minister, and found that one will
meet with representative Argentinians of all classes, for the membership
is confined to them; but few foreigners, outside of the diplomats, are
able to get their names on the membership books even as honorary members.
A good introduction will sometimes give the visitor a chance to take
his meals there and have a hand in the games, in which fortunes are
oftentimes lost in a single night. The club possesses some exquisite
works of art. They have followed the plan of purchasing one picture each
year, but that picture must contain merit, for the price is no object. In
this way they have collected some paintings and statuary that are worthy
of places in any museum of art or palace in the world.
The Argentinians are natural born gamblers, and nothing suits them better
than to take a chance on a lottery or on a horse race. The Hippodromo
has one of the finest race courses in the world. There are three tracks,
one within another. The outer one is three kilometers, or about one
and three-fourths mile, in circumference. There are three grandstands,
the central one being a magnificent structure, which is reserved for
members of the Jockey Club and their invited guests. The gates are as
fine specimens of brass gates as one can find of modern manufacture. The
big races are all held on Sundays, or national holidays, from twelve
o’clock to three. Then all of the society folk put on their best bib and
tucker and pour out toward the Hippodromo. A perfect stream of luxurious
automobiles and fine carriages with liveried drivers will carry the
society out to the races. During the races these vehicles line up along
the curb facing the middle of the street, for blocks, with mounted
police mingling in the line at intervals.
Here is a typical flowery description by an Argentine reporter of a
race at the Hippodromo: “It was a lavish spectacle of contentment, of
spirits absorbed for the moment in the coming sport—regulars eager to try
their palpitos, simple-minded folk who carried the ‘sure-thing’ safely
tucked away in their pockets. Dreamers of fortune, these, lulled by the
music of the trot. And out of the vague intonation of all this multitude
there came, here and there, like a breath of fresh air, the glimpses
fluttering, elegant, of luxurious carriages carrying radiantly dressed
ladies, the luminous note of undulating ribbons and plumes standing out
like a spring-like, feminine bouquet against the black mass of these
absorbed in the sport.”
It is a study of Argentine life. They are not as noisy as an American
crowd, but the tense faces express the keenest interest, for nearly
every one, old and young, man or woman, has a personal interest in the
outcome. There are none so old and few so young that they will not wage
a few pesos on a favourite. Between the races the crowds leave the
grandstand and wander around below or visit the betting booths, which
cover a half-acre of ground. One booth will accept wagers of ten dollars,
another of fifty and still others of one hundred dollars. The money is
then apportioned after fixed rules. Ten per cent. is first deducted
for charity, another ten per cent. for the Jockey Club and the balance
is divided among the bettors. When the result has been figured up, the
amount to be paid on the different horses is posted up on a black-board
and the winners can draw their money. This board, it is needless to say,
is eagerly scanned after each race.
More than one hundred races were given by this club last year, and they
were attended by nearly three-quarters of a million of people. The big
races were witnessed by a concourse of people which sometimes numbered
fifty thousand. The average attendance of all the races is more than six
thousand. The attendance and the money wagered is increasing rapidly each
year. The statistics show an increase in the past ten years of more than
three hundred per cent., and the amount of money wagered has increased
still more rapidly. The Argentinians are prosperous now, and they spend
their money more freely than the average American.
The Tiger—that is the meaning in English of El Tigre, the Thames of
Argentina. It is situated a half-hour’s ride by train from the city of
Buenos Aires, and is the favourite resort of all the lovers of water
sports in that city. “Going to the Tigre” is the usual expression you
will hear from the passenger at Retiro station on Saturday, Sunday or a
holiday, and it may be said in Spanish, English, German or Italian. It is
an inaccurate expression, for the name Tigre is properly applied only to
one of the most insignificant branches of the network of streams which
abound in that vicinity.
[Illustration: A SUMMER COTTAGE AT EL TIGRE]
[Illustration: “IMPOSING CREEPER-CLAD COTTAGES ARE DOTTED ALONG THE
BANK”]
El Tigre is not an old resort. Thirty years ago the banks of the many
little streams which wind in and out along the shore of the Rio de
La Plata for several miles were almost bare of arboreal growth, just
like the plains, or pampas, are for hundreds of miles. In fact it has
only been within the past dozen years that Buenos Aires in all its
cosmopolitan entirety “discovered” El Tigre. At the present time the
banks are all fringed with a dense curtain of vegetation. The eucalyptus,
poplar and willow alternate with each other, and closely-set peach and
pear orchards are very numerous, for the Tigre fruits are large and
delicious, and are in great demand in that republic. The transformation
has been wonderful, and the average visitor would think that the growth
was natural and not planted. This class of trees grows very rapidly when
once planted by the hand of man, but nature herself slighted Argentina in
the matter of trees.
As one sails in and out of the numerous canals new scenes of beauty
continuously open up before his eyes. The broad canal from the railroad
station is taken first, for this leads past the principal club houses.
Imposing creeper-clad cottages are dotted along the bank on one side, and
some of them are very beautiful. On the opposite side is the Tigre Hotel,
with its many flowers and refreshment grounds. As the motor boat speeds
along the regatta course the procession of passing craft is never-ending.
There are launches, punts, skiffs and canoes filled with cosmopolitan
parties of nearly all nationalities. Among these crowds the olive faces
and graceful figures of the dark-eyed Argentinian _señoritas_ may easily
be distinguished from the blonde, ruddy-faced English girl, or the more
buxom German type. The _señoritas_ have learned to skull and manœuvre
the rudder, as well as their fairer haired rivals for the affections of
the youths who are fortunate to be the owners of some craft that will
float on these seductive waters.
An excursion to the remote waters savours of the adventurous, for the
uninitiated would soon lose his bearings. One will wind in and out of
the maze of streams in continual wonder as to what the next bend will
reveal. There are broad streets of water, lanes, narrow passages and
even blind alleys. One might follow one course and emerge upon the broad
La Plata, or he might wind in and out for hours, or even days, without
once doubling on his track. Along these less frequented water ways the
honeysuckle and swamp flowers bloom unaided, and the large crimson
blossoms of the ceibo tree add a brilliant touch of colour. Native
boats laden with willow or fruits will occasionally be met, for these
watery lanes furnish the only outlet for the most of the islands to the
railroad station. In fact it is a sort of rural Venice, in which the
water furnishes the only means of communication. Occasionally a boat will
disappear into a narrow opening that you have not noticed before, for it
was so well shielded by the overhanging willows.
Many and beautiful boats will be seen upon the Tigre. There is the
swift motor boat decked up high so that it can glide through the waters
swiftly; again there is the broader build made for carrying a larger
complement of passengers. Then there are yachts of all kinds as well
as row-boats of every shape. The most of them are built in Europe, but
an occasional one constructed in the United States may be singled out.
There are a number of boat clubs. The oldest one was established by
the English, but this has been absorbed by the Argentinians and a new
one built by the British colony. This is said to be the largest rowing
club in the world. The Germans have a club house, and even the Italians
have built their own home. There are not enough Americans in that
southern metropolis to own a club house, but some of that nationality
belong to the English club, and own or have an interest in some of the
gasoline-propelled launches.
The people love the good things of life. In the evening those who wish
to dine in a becoming manner go to the Tigre Hotel. As the light begins
to fade, here and there the launches dart in and out of the shadows to
the landing-stage. The dining-room quickly becomes crowded with diners
in outing flannels or evening dress. After a while the tables in the
dining-room become filled to overflowing with a gay and happy crowd,
and they spread out upon the terrace by the river side. If there is
moonlight the effect is oftentimes almost fairy-like. Then the moon and
the Southern Cross look down upon such a scene of beauty and vivacity as
must make the Queen of the Night smile, and cause the stars to twinkle
more brightly than usual. The rays of moonlight are intersected by the
reflection of the lamps, while here and there a twinkling point that
denotes a launch darts in and out of the shadows. Later the notes of
the guitar and mandolin may be heard on the waters, as the happy crowd
disperse to the cottages, and the youthful gallants remain yet a few
minutes more by the home of the charmer and breathe in the fragrance of
the magnolia blossoms upon the banks. At last at a later hour all becomes
quiet, save for the silent splashing of the little waves upon the banks
of the canals. Then the darting glow of the fireflies and the song of the
mosquito is all that remains to indicate life on El Tigre.
“Come on in; the water is fine.”
It did not sound that way, for the words were in Spanish. It was in
January, too, and the latitude about the same as that of Washington.
There is this difference, however, that Mar del Plata is south of the
“line.” While we are wearing heavy wraps, the people in that part of the
world are enjoying warm weather. During January and February Buenos Aires
is deserted by society and officials, just as are New York and Washington
in July and August. Buenos Aires can only be compared to the two cities,
for it is both capital and metropolis.
Argentina has but one seaside resort. This one place is the fashionable
Newport, the merry-making Coney Island, and the cosmopolitan Atlantic
City, all in one. It is the English Brighton and Blackpool united.
The life at Mar del Plata is like none of its prototypes or its
contemporaries.
Here is an enthusiastic description of Mar del Plata by a native writer:
“All at Mar del Plata suggests the refinement of a bathing resort. The
waves of the Atlantic beat softly upon the sandy beaches. The magnificent
hotels are filled with a _monde_ cultured and sociable, that fills
the summer evenings with joy. The English cottages and the luxurious
chateaux are dotted upon the slopes with all their graceful architecture
and modern comfort. The days are balmy and the nights perfumed; the
concerts, dances, strolls upon the ‘Rambla,’ the gracious life of the
élite—all this enlivens the sport, and causes the summer months to pass
by in an enchanting fashion. And, above all, the inevitable ‘flirtation’
is wont to insinuate itself in the midst of this delightful frame of
mind, commencing with discreet love-makings in the romantic light of the
moon, in improvised excursions, during which one may enjoy with a full
pulse the beauty of nature, and ending in the interchange of marriage
vows to the accompaniment of delicious blushes on the part of the maiden,
and nervous agitation on that of the future Benedict.”
[Illustration: MAR DEL PLATA]
A few years ago a site on a beautiful little bay of the Atlantic, two
hundred and fifty miles from Buenos Aires, was chosen by a few of the
wealthy residents as a summer home. At that time the property could be
purchased for almost a song, as there was nothing on the site except
a little fishing village. These people built commodious homes, and it
was not long until this small advance guard was followed by others, and
the colony began to attract attention. In the last six years alone it
has increased one thousand per cent., and to-day Mar del Plata is an
attractive summer resort, with scores of palatial homes, several large
hotels, asphalt streets and other improvements which follow population.
There are a number of low hills that line the shore, which form a pretty
break in the flat plains that lie all the way to Buenos Aires. The main
portion of the town is built in one of the breaks in these hills, on the
largest bay, and the palatial homes are on the slopes and summits facing
the sea. There are some beautiful rocky formations around the bay, deep
narrow cliffs through which the waters break with thunderous noise. The
finest golf links in the republic are on one of the hills which overlooks
the sea, and this is the favourite spot for the English visitors to this
resort. There is also a beautiful drive which extends for several miles
up and down the hills and near the shore along the yellow sands, past the
picturesque rocks and ever looking out upon the blue waters of the ocean.
There is not the life about Mar del Plata that one finds at an American
seaside resort. Spanish conservatism still prevails, although mixed
bathing is permitted. This was introduced for the first time four years
ago. The people have hardly accustomed themselves to the innovation yet,
as one will only see the mixed groups in small family parties. As a rule
the women and children go in together and the men keep by themselves.
Furthermore, no one in bathing-costume will be seen strolling on the
walk, or along the beach. The women come out of the bathroom with a cloak
over the shoulder, and are generally joined by an attendant. He removes
the cloak as soon as the water is reached, and it is hung on a line to
await her return. The suits worn are generally skirtless, but with a
coat reaching half way to the knees; and they never wear stockings. The
attendant accompanies them out to where the surf is breaking, always
keeping near the life line. There they play around for twenty or thirty
minutes and then leave the water. The cloak is placed on their shoulders
again, and they immediately disappear into the dressing-rooms. The
authorities are very watchful of the bathers, for the undertow at times
is very strong. Scattered along the beach one will at all times see men
in bathing-costumes bearing coils of rope, who are ever on the alert.
These _bañeros_ have saved the life of many a venturesome bather.
The bathing is generally done in the morning, for at eleven o’clock the
promenade begins. This takes place along the board walk, called the
“Rambla,” which follows the line of the shore for a distance. This walk
is open to the sea and covered with a roof, but on the shore side there
are little curio stores, cafés, photograph galleries and moving picture
shows. Many families also have little private bath houses along this
walk; but that name is really a misnomer, for they are principally used
to sit in and watch the promenade, as well as to entertain friends.
The promenade in Spanish countries is a great feature of social life.
Because of the restrictive social customs there is little freedom in the
life of women, and they therefore welcome this diversion. It also gives
the _señoritas_ a chance to exhibit their charms before the admiring
young men, and very often leads to ardent love affairs. Every woman and
girl who is able to get around will be on that walk just as sure as the
men. And then for an hour or more the crowd will walk back and forth,
until you think they would all tire themselves out. By one o’clock the
promenaders have disappeared, and during the afternoon the walk is
almost deserted. That is the time for the _siesta_, which is followed by
a drive along the sea front. At six o’clock the promenade begins again,
and is kept up for about two hours more, a repetition of the one at
midday. Thus it is that life goes on day after day for three months every
summer at this greatest resort in South America. This parade is a study
in the life of Argentine society, for the real four hundred visit Mar
del Plata. It is a place for dress and no one with a slender purse can
afford to visit it, or, at least, stay any length of time. The costumers’
establishments of far away London and Paris, as well as Buenos Aires,
have been ransacked for gowns to be worn at this resort.
[Illustration: ON THE BEACH, MAR DEL PLATA]
With all the increase in hotel accommodation that has been provided in
recent years, the hotels were full for weeks the past season, and it
was almost impossible to secure accommodation unless one had friends,
or arranged for it weeks ahead. The Hotel Bristol is the largest hotel
in South America. There is a main building, which contains a spacious
dining and ball room, and two annexes, each of which is as large as the
average city block. The prices correspond with the magnificence of the
furnishings. It is a night’s run from Buenos Aires, and a day train
is run on Saturdays and Tuesdays, which makes the trip in about seven
hours. The night that I went there were five trains, each carrying
fourteen sleepers, and all of them were full. The traffic had been just
as great for almost a month. The country is as flat as a barn floor,
with thousands of cattle and sheep dotting the Camp as far as the eye
could reach. Great, long-eared rabbits are so numerous that drives are
often formed by the _estancieros_ to get rid of them. Arrived at Mar del
Plata, there was a close line of carriages almost a mile long waiting
for “fares.” As soon as one carriage was filled another moved up and
took its place. At these times the “cabbie” is the real monarch, for the
Argentinians are very fond of carriages and seldom walk if a carriage is
to be had.
The wealthy promoters of this resort are aiming to make it a sort of
Monte Carlo. A new club has just been built, which is the largest
and most imposing building in Mar del Plata. In this building three
roulette tables and several games of _trente et quarante_ were running
in full blast, one roulette table being in a special room for ladies.
The building was not quite finished at that time and only the gambling
rooms were in use, they being much more necessary than the rest rooms or
dining department. The most prominent men in the republic are members
of this club. There had been a public _casino_, but the governor of the
province had closed that. He could not reach this private club, however,
without the aid of another official, who favoured the gambling. They were
hoping in a few months to elect another governor who would not be so
strait-laced about such an important thing as gambling. Large sums are
oftentimes staked on the games at Mar del Plata, for the Argentinian is
reckless enough to risk his last dollar under the excitement of the game.
Mar del Plata has become quite a fishing place and many of the
inhabitants are engaged in that occupation. It is very interesting to
watch the fishing boats when they come in from their excursions. First
one, then two or three, and perhaps a dozen of these picturesque crafts
will come around the point and head for the beach. Watching a favourable
swell, one after another of the fishing smacks will head for the shore
with all sail set. Awaiting them will be men with teams of horses, by
means of which they are pulled up high and dry upon the sand to await
the coming of morning, when they will again start out in their search for
the ocean’s game.