CHAPTER XXI

KIEV

Owing to the many difficulties and delays the journey from Fastov

to Kiev lasted six days and was a continuous nightmare. The railway

situation was appalling. At every station scores of freight cars

clogged the lines. Nor were they loaded with provisions to feed the

starving cities; they were densely packed with human cargo among whom

the sick were a large percentage. All along the route the waiting rooms

and platforms were filled with crowds, bedraggled and dirty. Even

more ghastly were the scenes at night. Everywhere masses of desperate

people, shouting and struggling to gain a foothold on the train. They

resembled the damned of Dante's Inferno, their faces ashen gray in

the dim light, all frantically fighting for a place. Now and then an

agonized cry would ring through the night and the already moving train

would come to a halt: somebody had been thrown to his death under the

wheels.

It was a relief to reach Kiev. We had expected to find the city almost

in ruins, but we were pleasantly disappointed. When we left Petrograd

the Soviet Press contained numerous stories of vandalism committed by

Poles before evacuating Kiev. They had almost demolished the famous

ancient cathedral in the city, the papers wrote, destroyed the water

works and electric stations, and set fire to several parts of the

city. Tchicherin and Lunacharsky issued passionate appeals to the

cultured people of the world in protest against such barbarism. The

crime of the Poles against Art was compared with that committed by

the Germans in Rheims, whose celebrated cathedral had been injured by

Prussian artillery. We were, therefore, much surprised to find Kiev in

even better condition than Petrograd. In fact, the city had suffered

very little, considering the numerous changes of government and the

accompanying military operations. It is true that some bridges and

railroad tracks had been blown up on the outskirts of the city, but

Kiev itself was almost unharmed. People looked at us in amazement when

we made inquiries about the condition of the cathedral: they had not

heard the Moscow report.

Unlike our welcome in Kharkov and Poltava, Kiev proved a

disappointment. The secretary of the _Ispolkom_ was not very amiable

and appeared not at all impressed by Zinoviev's signature on our

credentials. Our secretary succeeded in seeing the chairman of the

Executive Committee, but returned very discouraged: that high official

was too impatient to listen to her representations. He was busy, he

said, and could not be troubled. It was decided that I try my luck as

an American, with the result that the chairman finally agreed to give

us access to the available material. It was a sad reflection on the

irony of life. America was in league with world imperialism to starve

and crush Russia. Yet it was sufficient to mention that one came from

America to find the key to everything Russian. It was pathetic, and

rather distasteful to make use of that key.

In Kiev antagonism to Communism was intense, even the local Bolsheviki

being bitter against Moscow. It was out of the question for anyone

coming from "the centre" to secure their coöperation unless armed with

State powers. The Government employees in Soviet institutions took no

interest in anything save their rations. Bureaucratic indifference

and incompetence in Ukraina were even worse than in Moscow and were

augmented by nationalistic resentment against the "Russians." It was

true also of Kharkov and Poltava, though in a lesser degree. Here the

very atmosphere was charged with distrust and hatred of everything

Muscovite. The deception practised on us by the chairman of the

Educational Department of Kharkov was characteristic of the resentment

almost every Ukrainian official felt toward Moscow. The chairman was a

Ukrainian to the core, but he could not openly ignore our credentials

signed by Zinoviev and Lunacharsky. He promised to aid our efforts but

he disliked the idea of Petrograd "absorbing" the historic material

of the Ukraina. In Kiev there was no attempt to mask the opposition

to Moscow. One was made to feel it everywhere. But the moment the

magic word "America" was spoken and the people made to understand that

one was not a Communist, they became interested and courteous, even

confidential. The Ukrainian Communists were also no exception.

The information and documents collected in Kiev were of the same

character as the data gathered in former cities. The system of

education, care of the sick, distribution of labour and so forth were

similar to the general Bolshevik scheme. "We follow the Moscow plan,"

said a Ukrainian teacher, "with the only difference that in our schools

the Ukrainian language is taught together with Russian." The people,

and especially the children, looked better fed and clad than those of

Russia proper: food was comparatively more plentiful and cheaper. There

were show schools as in Petrograd and Moscow, and no one apparently

realized the corrupting effect of such discrimination upon the teachers

as well as the children. The latter looked with envy upon the pupils

of the favoured schools and believed that they were only for Communist

children, which in reality was not the case. The teachers, on the

other hand, knowing how little attention was paid to ordinary schools,

were negligent in their work. All tried to get a position in the show

schools which were enjoying special and varied rations.

The chairman of the Board of Health was an alert and competent man,

one of the few officials in Kiev who showed interest in the Expedition

and its work. He devoted much time to explaining to us the methods of

his organization and pointing out interesting places to visit and the

material which could be collected for the Museum. He especially called

our attention to the Jewish hospital for crippled children.

I found the latter in charge of a cultivated and charming man, Dr.

N----. For twenty years he had been head of the hospital and he took

interest as well as pride in showing us about his institution and

relating its history.

The hospital had formerly been one of the most famous in Russia, the

pride of the local Jews who had built and maintained it. But within

recent years its usefulness had become curtailed owing to the frequent

changes of government. It had been exposed to persecution and repeated

pogroms. Jewish patients critically ill were often forced out of their

beds to make room for the favourites of this or that régime. The

officers of the Denikin army were most brutal. They drove the Jewish

patients out into the street, subjected them to indignities and abuse,

and would have killed them had it not been for the intercession of the

hospital staff who at the risk of their own lives protected the sick.

It was only the fact that the majority of the staff were Gentiles that

saved the hospital and its inmates. But the shock resulted in numerous

deaths and many patients were left with shattered nerves.

The doctor also related to me the story of some of the patients,

most of them victims of the Fastov pogroms. Among them were children

between the ages of six and eight, gaunt and sickly looking, terror

stamped on their faces. They had lost all their kin, in some cases

the whole family having been killed before their eyes. These children

often waked at night, the physician said, in fright at their horrible

dreams. Everything possible was being done for them, but so far the

unfortunate children had not been freed from the memory of their

terrible experiences at Fastov. The doctor pointed out a group of young

girls between the ages of fourteen and eighteen, the worst victims of

the Denikin pogrom. All of them had been repeatedly outraged and were

in a mutilated state when they came to the hospital; it would take

years to restore them to health. The doctor emphasized the fact that

no pogroms had taken place during the Bolshevik régime. It was a great

relief to him and his staff to know that his patients were no longer

in such danger. But the hospital had other difficulties. There was the

constant interference by political Commissars and the daily struggle

for supplies. "I spend most of my time in the various bureaus," he

said, "instead of devoting myself to my patients. Ignorant officials

are given power over the medical profession, continuously harassing

the doctors in their work." The doctor himself had been repeatedly

arrested for sabotage because of his inability to comply with the

numerous decrees and orders, frequently mutually contradictory. It

was the result of a system in which political usefulness rather than

professional merit played the main rôle. It often happened that a

first-class physician of well-known repute and long experience would be

suddenly ordered to some distant part to place a Communist doctor in

his position. Under such conditions the best efforts were paralysed.

Moreover, there was the general suspicion of the _intelligentsia_,

which was a demoralizing factor. It was true that many of that

class had sabotaged, but there were also those who did heroic and

self-sacrificing work. The Bolsheviki, by their indiscriminate

antagonism toward the _intelligentsia_ as a class, roused prejudices

and passions which poisoned the mainsprings of the cultural life of

the country. The Russian _intelligentsia_ had with its very blood

fertilized the soil of the Revolution, yet it was not given it to reap

the fruits of its long struggle. "A tragic fate," the doctor remarked;

"unless one forget it in his work, existence would be impossible."

The institution for crippled children proved a very model and modern

hospital, located in the heart of a large park. It was devoted to the

marred creatures with twisted limbs and deformed bodies, victims of the

great war, disease, and famine. The children looked aged and withered;

like Father Time, they had been born old. They lay in rows on clean

white beds, baking in the warm sun of the Ukrainian summer. The head

physician, who guided us through the institution, seemed much beloved

by his little charges. They were eager and pleased to see him as he

approached each helpless child and bent over affectionately to make

some inquiries about its health. The hospital had been in existence

for many years and was considered the first of its kind in Russia. Its

equipment for the care of deformed and crippled children was among the

most modern. "Since the war and the Revolution we feel rather behind

the times," the doctor said; "we have been cut off from the civilized

world for so many years. But in spite of the various government changes

we have striven to keep up our standards and to help the unfortunate

victims of strife and disease." The supplies for the institution were

provided by the Government and the hospital force was exposed to no

interference, though I understood from the doctor that because of his

political neutrality he was looked upon by the Bolsheviki as inclined

to counter-revolution.

The hospital contained a large number of children; some of those who

could walk about studied music and art, and we had the opportunity

of attending an informal concert arranged by the children and their

teachers in our honour. Some of them played the _balalaika_ in a most

artistic manner, and it was consoling to see those marred children

finding forgetfulness in the rhythm of the folk melodies of the Ukraina.

Early during our stay in Kiev we learned that the most valuable

material for the Museum was not to be found in the Soviet institutions,

but that it was in the possession of other political groups and private

persons. The best statistical information on pogroms, for instance, was

in the hands of a former Minister of the Rada régime in the Ukraina.

I succeeded in locating the man and great was my surprise when, upon

learning my identity, he presented me with several copies of the

_Mother Earth_ magazine I had published in America. The ex-Minister

arranged a small gathering to which were invited some writers and poets

and men active in the Jewish _Kulturliga_ to meet several members

of our Expedition. The gathering consisted of the best elements of

the local Jewish _intelligentsia_. We discussed the Revolution, the

Bolshevik methods, and the Jewish problem. Most of those present,

though opposed to the Communist theories, were in favour of the Soviet

Government. They felt that the Bolsheviki, in spite of their many

blunders, were striving to further the interests of Russia and the

Revolution. At any rate, under the Communist régime the Jews were not

exposed to the pogroms practised upon them by all the other régimes

of Ukraina. Those Jewish intellectuals argued that the Bolsheviki at

least permitted the Jews to live, and that they were therefore to be

preferred to any other governments and should be supported by the

Jews. They were fearful of the growth of anti-Semitism in Russia and

were horrified at the possibility of the Bolsheviki being overthrown.

Wholesale slaughter of the Jews would undoubtedly follow, they believed.

Some of the younger set held a different view. The Bolshevik régime

had resulted in increased hatred toward the Jews, they said, for the

masses were under the impression that most of the Communists were Jews.

Communism stood for forcible tax-collection, punitive expeditions, and

the Tcheka. Popular opposition to the Communists therefore expressed

itself in the hatred of the whole Jewish race. Thus Bolshevik tyranny

had added fuel to the latent anti-Semitism of the Ukraina. Moreover,

to prove that they were not discriminating in favour of the Jews, the

Bolsheviki had gone to the other extreme and frequently arrested and

punished Jews for things that the Gentiles could do with impunity. The

Bolsheviki also fostered and endowed cultural work in the south in

the Ukrainian language, while at the same time they discouraged such

efforts in the Jewish language. It was true that the _Kulturliga_ was

still permitted to exist, but its work was hampered at every step.

In short, the Bolsheviki permitted the Jews to live, but only in a

physical sense. Culturally, they were condemned to death. The _Yevkom_

(Jewish Communist Section) was receiving, of course, every advantage

and support from the Government, but then its mission was to carry the

gospel of the proletarian dictatorship to the Jews of the Ukraina.

It was significant that the _Yevkom_ was more anti-Semitic than the

Ukrainians themselves. If it had the power it would pogrom every

non-Communist Jewish organization and destroy all Jewish educational

efforts. This young element emphasized that they did not favour the

overthrow of the Bolshevik Government; but they could not support it,

either.

I felt that both Jewish factions took a purely nationalistic view of

the Russian situation. I could well understand their personal attitude,

the result of their own suffering and the persecution of the Jewish

race. Still, my chief concern was the Revolution and its effects upon

Russia _as a whole_. Whether the Bolsheviki should be supported or not

could not depend merely on their attitude to the Jews and the Jewish

question. The latter was surely a very vital and pressing issue,

especially in the Ukraina; yet the general problem involved was much

greater. It embraced the complete economic and social emancipation of

the whole people of Russia, the Jews included. If the Bolshevik methods

and practices were not imposed upon them by the force of circumstances,

if they were conditioned in their own theories and principles, and if

their sole object was to secure their own power, I could not support

them. They might be innocent of pogroms against the Jews, but if they

were pogroming the whole of Russia then they had failed in their

mission as a revolutionary party. I was not prepared to say that I

had reached a clear understanding of all the problems involved, but

my experience so far led me to think that it was the basic Bolshevik

conception of the Revolution which was false, its practical application

necessarily resulting in the great Russian catastrophe of which the

Jewish tragedy was but a minor part.

My host and his friends could not agree with my viewpoint: we

represented opposite camps. But the gathering was nevertheless

intensely interesting and it was arranged that we meet again before our

departure from the city.

Returning to our car one day I saw a detachment of Red Army soldiers

at the railway station. On inquiry I found that foreign delegates were

expected from Moscow and that the soldiers had been ordered out to

participate in a demonstration in their honour. Groups of the uniformed

men stood about discussing the arrival of the mission. There were many

expressions of dissatisfaction because the soldiers had been kept

waiting so long. "These people come to Russia just to look us over,"

one of the Red Army men said; "do they know anything about us or are

they interested in how we live? Not they. It's a holiday for them. They

are dressed up and fed by the Government, but they never talk to us

and all they see is how we march past. Here we have been lying around

in the burning sun for hours while the delegates are probably being

feasted at some other station. That's comradeship and equality for you!"

I had heard such sentiments voiced before, but it was surprising to

hear them from soldiers. I thought of Angelica Balabanova, who was

accompanying the Italian Mission, and I wondered what she would think

if she knew how the men felt. It had probably never occurred to her

that those "ignorant Russian peasants" in military uniform had looked

through the sham of official demonstrations.

The following day we received an invitation from Balabanova to attend

a banquet given in honour of the Italian delegates. Anxious to meet

the foreign guests, several members of our Expedition accepted the

invitation.

The affair took place in the former Chamber of Commerce building,

profusely decorated for the occasion. In the main banquet hall long

tables were heavily laden with fresh-cut flowers, several varieties

of southern fruit, and wine. The sight reminded one of the feasts

of the old bourgeoisie, and I could see that Angelica felt rather

uncomfortable at the lavish display of silverware and wealth. The

banquet opened with the usual toasts, the guests drinking to Lenin,

Trotsky, the Red Army, and the Third International, the whole company

rising as the revolutionary anthem was intoned after each toast, with

the soldiers and officers standing at attention in good old military

style.

Among the delegates were two young French Anarcho-syndicalists. They

had heard of our presence in Kiev and had been looking for us all

day without being able to locate us. After the banquet they were

immediately to leave for Petrograd, so that we had only a short time at

our disposal. On our way to the station the delegates related that they

had collected much material on the Revolution which they intended to

publish in France. They had become convinced that all was not well with

the Bolshevik régime: they had come to realize that the dictatorship

of the proletariat was in the exclusive hands of the Communist Party,

while the common worker was enslaved as much as ever. It was their

intention, they said, to speak frankly about these matters to their

comrades at home and to substantiate their attitude by the material in

their possession. "Do you expect to get the documents out?" I asked La

Petit, one of the delegates. "You don't mean that I might be prevented

from taking out my own notes," he replied. "The Bolsheviki would not

dare to go so far--not with foreign delegates, at any rate." He seemed

so confident that I did not care to pursue the subject further. That

night the delegates left Kiev and a short time afterward they departed

from Russia. They were never seen alive again. Without making any

comment upon their disappearance I merely want to mention that when

I returned to Moscow several months later it was generally related

that the two Anarcho-syndicalists, with several other men who had

accompanied them, were overtaken by a storm somewhere off the coast of

Finland, and were all drowned. There were rumours of foul play, though

I am not inclined to credit the story, especially in view of the fact

that together with the Anarcho-syndicalists also perished a Communist

in good standing in Moscow. But their disappearance with all the

documents they had collected has never been satisfactorily explained.

The rooms assigned to the members of our Expedition were located in a

house within a _passage_ leading off the Kreschatik, the main street of

Kiev. It had formerly been the wealthy residential section of the city

and its fine houses, though lately neglected, still looked imposing.

The _passage_ also contained a number of shops, ruins of former glory,

which catered to the well-to-do of the neighbourhood. Those stores

still had good supplies of vegetables, fruit, milk, and butter. They

were owned mostly by old Jews whose energies could not be applied to

any other usefulness--Orthodox Jews to whom the Revolution and the

Bolsheviki were a _bête noire_, because that had "ruined all business."

The little shops barely enabled their owners to exist; moreover,

they were in constant danger of Tcheka raids, on which occasions the

provisions would be expropriated. The appearance of those stores did

not justify the belief that the Government would find it worth while

raiding them. "Would not the Tcheka prefer to confiscate the goods

of the big delicatessen and fruit stores on the Kreschatik?" I asked

an old Jew storekeeper. "Not at all," he replied; "those stores are

immune because they pay heavy taxes."

The morning following the banquet I went down to the little grocery

store I used to do my shopping in. The place was closed, and I was

surprised to find that not one of the small shops near by was open. Two

days later I learned that the places had all been raided on the eve of

the banquet in order to feast the foreign delegates. I promised myself

never to attend another Bolshevik banquet.

Among the members of the _Kulturliga_ I met a man who had lived in

America, but for several years now was with his family in Kiev. His

home proved one of the most hospitable during my stay in the south,

and as he had many callers belonging to various social classes I was

able to gather much information about the recent history of Ukraina.

My host was not a Communist: though critical of the Bolshevik régime,

he was by no means antagonistic. He used to say that the main fault of

the Bolsheviki was their lack of psychological perception. He asserted

that no government had ever such a great opportunity in the Ukraina

as the Communists. The people had suffered so much from the various

occupations and were so oppressed by every new régime that they

rejoiced when the Bolsheviki entered Kiev. Everybody hoped that they

would bring relief. But the Communists quickly destroyed all illusions.

Within a few months they proved themselves entirely incapable of

administering the affairs of the city; their methods antagonized the

people, and the terrorism of the Tcheka turned even the friends of the

Communists to bitter enmity. Nobody objected to the nationalization

of industry and it was of course expected that the Bolsheviki would

expropriate. But when the bourgeoisie had been relieved of its

possessions it was found that only the raiders benefited. Neither

the people at large nor even the proletarian class gained anything.

Precious jewellery, silverware, furs, practically the whole wealth of

Kiev seemed to disappear and was no more heard of. Later members of the

Tcheka strutted about the streets with their women gowned in the finery

of the bourgeoisie. When private business places were closed, the doors

were locked and sealed and guards placed there. But within a few weeks

the stores were found empty. This kind of "management" and the numerous

new laws and edicts, often mutually conflicting, served the Tcheka as a

pretext to terrorize and mulct the citizens and aroused general hatred

against the Bolsheviki. The people had turned against Petlura, Denikin,

and the Poles. They welcomed the Bolsheviki with open arms. But the

last disappointed them as the first.

"Now we have gotten used to the situation," my host said, "we just

drift and manage as best we can." But he thought it a pity that

the Bolsheviki lost such a great chance. They were unable to hold

the confidence of the people and to direct that confidence into

constructive channels. Not only had the Bolsheviki failed to operate

the big industries: they also destroyed the small _kustarnaya_ work.

There had been thousands of artisans in the province of Kiev, for

instance; most of them had worked by themselves, without exploiting

any one. They were independent producers who supplied a certain

need of the community. The Bolsheviki in their reckless scheme of

nationalization suspended those efforts without being able to replace

them by aught else. They had nothing to give either to the workers

or to the peasants. The city proletariat faced the alternative of

starving in the city or going back to the country. They preferred the

latter, of course. Those who could not get to the country engaged

in trade, buying and selling jewellery, for instance. Practically

everybody in Russia had become a tradesman, the Bolshevik Government

no less than private speculators. "You have no idea of the amount of

illicit business carried on by officials in Soviet institutions," my

host informed me; "nor is the army free from it. My nephew, a Red Army

officer, a Communist, has just returned from the Polish front. He can

tell you about these practices in the army."

I was particularly eager to talk to the young officer. In my travels I

had met many soldiers, and I found that most of them had retained the

old slave psychology and bowed absolutely to military discipline. Some,

however, were very wide awake and could see clearly what was happening

about them. A certain small element in the Red Army was entirely

transformed by the Revolution. It was proof of the gestation of new

life and new forms which set Russia apart from the rest of the world,

notwithstanding Bolshevik tyranny and oppression. For that element the

Revolution had a deep significance. They saw in it something vital

which even the daily decrees could not compress within the narrow

Communist mould. It was their attitude and general sentiment that the

Bolsheviki had not kept faith with the people. They saw the Communist

State growing at the cost of the Revolution, and some of them even

went so far as to voice the opinion that the Bolsheviki had become the

enemies of the Revolution. But they all felt that for the time being

they could do nothing. They were determined to dispose of the foreign

enemies first. "Then," they would say, "we will face the enemy at home."

The Red Army officer proved a fine-looking young fellow very deeply in

earnest. At first he was disinclined to talk, but in the course of the

evening he grew less embarrassed and expressed his feelings freely. He

had found much corruption at the front, he said. But it was even worse

at the base of supplies where he had done duty for some time. The men

at the front were practically without clothes or shoes. The food was

insufficient and the Army was ravaged by typhoid and cholera. Yet the

spirit of the men was wonderful. They fought bravely, enthusiastically,

because they believed in their ideal of a free Russia. But while they

were fighting and dying for the great cause, the higher officers,

the so-called _tovaristchi_, sat in safe retreat and there drank and

gambled and got rich by speculation. The supplies so desperately

needed at the front were being sold at fabulous prices to speculators.

The young officer had become so disheartened by the situation, he had

thought of committing suicide. But now he was determined to return to

the front. "I shall go back and tell my comrades what I have seen," he

said; "our real work will begin when we have defeated foreign invasion.

Then we shall go after those who are trading away the Revolution."

I felt there was no cause to despair so long as Russia possessed such

spirits.

I returned to my room to find our secretary waiting to report the

valuable find she had made. It consisted of rich Denikin material

stacked in the city library and apparently forgotten by everybody.

The librarian, a zealous Ukrainian nationalist, refused to permit the

"Russian" Museum to take the material, though it was of no use to Kiev,

literally buried in an obscure corner and exposed to danger and ruin.

We decided to appeal to the Department of Education and to apply the

"American amulet." It grew to be a standing joke among the members of

the Expedition to resort to the "amulet" in difficult situations. Such

matters were always referred to Alexander Berkman and myself as the

"Americans."

It required considerable persuasion to interest the chairman in the

matter. He persisted in refusing till I finally asked him: "Are you

willing that it become known in America that you prefer to have

valuable historical material rot away in Kiev rather than give it to

the Petrograd Museum, which is sure to become a world centre for the

study of the Russian Revolution and where Ukraina is to have such an

important part?" At last the chairman issued the required order and our

Expedition took possession of the material, to the great elation of our

secretary, to whom the Museum represented the most important interest

in life.

In the afternoon of the same day I was visited by a woman Anarchist

who was accompanied by a young peasant girl, confidentially introduced

as the wife of Makhno. My heart stood still for a moment: the presence

of that girl in Kiev meant certain death were she discovered by the

Bolsheviki. It also involved grave danger to my landlord and his

family, for in Communist Russia harbouring--even if unwittingly--a

member of the Makhno _povstantsi_ often incurred the worst

consequences. I expressed surprise at the young woman's recklessness in

thus walking into the very jaws of the enemy. But she explained that

Makhno was determined to reach us; he would trust no one else with the

message, and therefore she had volunteered to come. It was evident that

danger had lost all terror for her. "We have been living in constant

peril for years," she said simply.

Divested of her disguise, she revealed much beauty. She was a woman

of twenty-five, with a wealth of jet-black hair of striking lustre.

"Nestor had hoped that you and Alexander Berkman would manage to come,

but he waited in vain," she began. "Now he sent me to tell you about

the struggle he is waging and he hopes that you will make his purpose

known to the world outside." Late into the night she related the story

of Makhno which tallied in all important features with that told us

by the two Ukrainian visitors in Petrograd. She dwelt on the methods

employed by the Bolsheviki to eliminate Makhno and the agreements they

had repeatedly made with him, every one of which had been broken by

the Communists the moment immediate danger from invaders was over.

She spoke of the savage persecution of the members of the Makhno

army and of the numerous attempts of the Bolsheviki to trap and kill

Nestor. That failing, the Bolsheviki had murdered his brother and

had exterminated her own family, including her father and brother.

She praised the revolutionary devotion, the heroism and endurance

of the _povstantsi_ in the face of the greatest difficulties, and

she entertained us with the legends the peasants had woven about the

personality of Makhno. Thus, for instance, there grew up among the

country folk the belief that Makhno was invulnerable because he had

never been wounded during all the years of warfare, in spite of his

practice of always personally leading every charge.

She was a good conversationalist, and her tragic story was relieved by

bright touches of humour. She told many anecdotes about the exploits

of Makhno. Once he had caused a wedding to be celebrated in a village

occupied by the enemy. It was a gala affair, everybody attending. While

the people were making merry on the market place and the soldiers

were succumbing to the temptation of drink, Makhno's men surrounded

the village and easily routed the superior forces stationed there.

Having taken a town it was always Makhno's practice to compel the rich

peasants, the _kulaki_, to give up their surplus wealth, which was then

divided among the poor, Makhno keeping a share for his army. Then he

would call a meeting of the villagers, address them on the purposes of

the _povstantsi_ movement, and distribute his literature.

Late into the night the young woman related the story of Makhno and

_makhnovstchina_. Her voice, held low because of the danger of the

situation, was rich and mellow, her eyes shone with the intensity

of emotion. "Nestor wants you to tell the comrades of America and

Europe," she concluded, "that he is one of them--an Anarchist whose

aim is to defend the Revolution against all enemies. He is trying to

direct the innate rebellious spirit of the Ukrainian peasant into

organized Anarchist channels. He feels that he cannot accomplish it

himself without the aid of the Anarchists of Russia. He himself is

entirely occupied with military matters, and he has therefore invited

his comrades throughout the country to take charge of the educational

work. His ultimate plan is to take possession of a small territory in

Ukraina and there establish a free commune. Meanwhile, he is determined

to fight every reactionary force."

Makhno was very anxious to confer personally with Alexander Berkman

and myself, and he proposed the following plan. He would arrange to

take any small town or village between Kiev and Kharkov where our

car might happen to be. It would be carried out without any use of

violence, the place being captured by surprise. The stratagem would

have the appearance of our having been taken prisoners, and protection

would be guaranteed to the other members of the Expedition. After our

conference we would be given safe conduct to our car. It would at the

same time insure us against the Bolsheviki, for the whole scheme would

be carried out in military manner, similar to a regular Makhno raid.

The plan promised a very interesting adventure and we were anxious

for an opportunity to meet Makhno personally. Yet we could not expose

the other members of the Expedition to the risk involved in such an

undertaking. We decided not to avail ourselves of the offer, hoping

that another occasion might present itself to meet the _povstantsi_

leader.

Makhno's wife had been a country school teacher; she possessed

considerable information and was intensely interested in all cultural

problems. She plied me with questions about American women, whether

they had really become emancipated and enjoyed equal rights. The young

woman had been with Makhno and his army for several years, but she

could not reconcile herself to the primitive attitude of her people

in regard to woman. The Ukrainian woman, she said, was considered an

object of sex and motherhood only. Nestor himself was no exception

in this matter. Was it different in America? Did the American woman

believe in free motherhood and was she familiar with the subject of

birth control?

It was astonishing to hear such questions from a peasant girl. I

thought it most remarkable that a woman born and reared so far from

the scene of woman's struggle for emancipation should yet be so alive

to its problems. I spoke to the girl of the activities of the advanced

women of America, of their achievements and of the work yet to be

done for woman's emancipation. I mentioned some of the literature

dealing with these subjects. She listened eagerly. "I must get hold of

something to help our peasant women. They are just beasts of burden,"

she said.

Early the next morning we saw her safely out of the house. The same

day, while visiting the Anarchist club, I witnessed a peculiar sight.

The club had recently been reopened after having been raided by

the Tcheka. The local Anarchists met in the club rooms for study

and lectures; Anarchist literature was also to be had there. While

conversing with some friends I noticed a group of prisoners passing

on the street below. Just as they neared the Anarchist headquarters

several of them looked up, having evidently noticed the large sign over

the club rooms. Suddenly they straightened up, took off their caps,

bowed, and then passed on. I turned to my friends. "Those peasants are

probably _makhnovstsi_" they said; "the Anarchist headquarters are

sacred precincts to them." How exceptional the Russian soul, I thought,

wondering whether a group of American workers or farmers could be so

imbued with an ideal as to express it in the simple and significant

way the _makhnovstsi_ did. To the Russian his belief is indeed an

inspiration.

Our stay in Kiev was rich in varied experiences and impressions. It

was a strenuous time during which we met people of different social

strata and gathered much valuable information and material. We closed

our visit with a short trip on the river Dniepr to view some of the

old monasteries and cathedrals, among them the celebrated Sophievski

and Vladimir. Imposing edifices, which remained intact during all the

revolutionary changes, even their inner life continuing as before. In

one of the monasteries we enjoyed the hospitality of the sisters who

treated us to real Russian tea, black bread, and honey. They lived as

if nothing had happened in Russia since 1914; it was as if they had

passed the last years outside of the world. The monks still continued

to show to the curious the sacred caves of the Vladimir Cathedral and

the places where the saints had been walled in, their ossified bodies

now on exhibition. Visitors were daily taken through the vaults, the

accompanying priests pointing out the cells of the celebrated martyrs

and reciting the biographies of the most important of the holy family.

Some of the stories related were wonderful beyond all human credence,

breathing holy superstition with every pore. The Red Army soldiers in

our group looked rather dubious at the fantastic tales of the priests.

Evidently the Revolution had influenced their religious spirit and

developed a sceptical attitude toward miracle workers.

My Disillusionment in Russia · 第 21 / 21 章