CHAPTER XVIII

MORWENSTOW

There is a fine stretch of sands protecting the Bude shores, but the

background of these sands is cliff. It was this sand that made one of

the chief uses of the canal from Bude to Holsworthy, now superseded by

the railway; containing a large proportion of lime, it is valuable for

agricultural purposes. The sands have a further use now as a

playground for visitors; very few watering-places become really

popular without such a beach for the children and the bathers. But the

true coast is, of course, the background of cliff, and this continues

grandly rugged and broken to the Devon borders, and beyond. Little

more than a mile north of Bude is Poughill, pronounced Puffill. The

church, dedicated to St. Olaf, is one of the few Teutonic foundations

in Cornwall; but, indeed, this northern corner of the neighbouring

counties, with its "weeks" and "hams" and "worthies," must have been

largely held by settlements of Saxons. The value of place-names in

such matters is very great, though it must never be pressed too far.

Poughill Church, with a good Perpendicular tower, is chiefly notable

for its frescoes, somewhat glaringly restored; they resemble those of

St. Breage, in the Helston district. Both figures represent St.

Christopher bearing his sacred burden across the tide, and the details

are in an advanced stage of symbolism. Far more pleasing,

artistically, are the beautiful bench-ends of the early sixteenth

century, with their various emblems of the Crucifixion, their armorial

insignia, their symbols and initials. This church is peculiarly

attractive, and its situation is delightful. From thence the road runs

to Kilkhampton, whither recollections of the Grenvilles have already

carried us. We are now getting into the heart of the Hawker district,

but other associations are so numerous here that it seems impossible

to deal with them all in anything like an adequate manner. The

Perpendicular church of Kilkhampton chiefly dates from the Elizabethan

days when one of the Grenvilles was rector here; but it embodies the

beautiful Norman doorway from the church supposed to have been built

in the eleventh century by another Grenville. Some other Norman traces

are preserved--Rector Grenville was a judicious restorer. Of his date

are the oak bench-ends, which are as good as Poughill's, and there is

an elaborate screen. The monument of Sir Beville Grenville, erected

long after his death by his grandson, is perhaps not quite what it

ought to be--it is too dismal and conventional. It is very much in the

spirit of the Calvinistic clergyman, James Hervey, who, when curate at

Bideford, was so much impressed by Kilkhampton Church that it prompted

his once famous _Meditations among the Tombs_. The work and others of

its author's, such as _Theron and Aspasio_, may still be met with

occasionally on old-fashioned bookshelves, or on the second-hand

stalls; and they forcibly remind us of the style of second-rate

reflection which, in a different dress, is still dear to the average

sober-minded individual. But Hervey is not at all bad, of his sort,

and our great-grandfathers thought him profound. Probably, however, he

was dearer to their wives; it is chiefly women who support this kind

of moralising. To Hervey Kilkhampton Church was "an ancient Pile,

reared by Hands that ages ago moulded into Dust--the Body spacious,

the Structure lofty, the whole magnificently plain." He was at

Bideford in 1740. Much more lively in its nature was the connection

with this parish of the notorious Cruel Coppinger, smuggler, wrecker,

and desperado.

"Will you hear of Cruel Coppinger?

He came from a foreign land;

He was brought to us by the salt water,

He was carried away by the wind."

Coppinger has become almost mythical, by reason of older traditions of

pirate-smugglers being attributed to him. The Rev. S. Baring-Gould

himself, in his book on the _Vicar of Morwenstow_, has located

Coppinger in the Kilkhampton district; but his novel, _In the Roar of

the Sea_, places its hero, somewhat humanised, at St. Enodoc. The

truth is, there are similar traditions in several parts of the Cornish

coast, and elsewhere. There was a floating mass of legend ready to be

appropriated by any character that might seem to deserve it; and we

may take Coppinger as a kind of generic title, the clustering of

varying Cornish traditions of wrecking and piracy round one name. Such

being the case, he may as well be placed at Kilkhampton as anywhere

else. He is reported sometimes as a Dane, sometimes as an Irishman,

who was thrown on the coast in a tempest, who leaped upon her horse's

back behind a girl who had come to witness the wreck, and who

ultimately married her. He proved to be one of the blackest villains

Cornwall had ever known, but as he had a powerful gang of followers

who aided him in all his misdoings, there must have been plenty as bad

as he, though they might lack his gift of leadership and initiative.

He is said to have chopped off a gauger's hand on the gunwale of a

boat--rumour reported even worse things than this; and he once soundly

horsewhipped the parson of Kilkhampton, who had offended him. There is

also a story of his carrying a terrified tailor to "mend the devil's

breeches." He departed as mysteriously as he came, after many years of

vile outrage; he "who came with the water went with the wind." It is

clear that a great deal of old-time folk-lore has gathered round this

name, and probably no single man must be held answerable for all the

wild doings related of Cruel Coppinger. In all such traditions Hawker

is a most unsafe guide; he did not consciously "falsify the books,"

but he had misled many who came after, particularly the popular

guide-books, by his looseness and his play of fancy. But he came to

this district at a period when smuggling, if not actual wrecking and

piracy, was at its height--not only in Cornwall, be it remembered, but

in many other parts of the coast, such as Sussex and Kent. It was a

time when the Cornish used to thank God for wrecks; and if they did

not actually lure vessels to destruction on their cruel coasts, which

it may be feared they did sometimes, they at least did nothing to

avert the disasters which, to their mind, were sent by a merciful

providence. There was even a proverb that it was unlucky to rescue a

drowning man--widespread, for Scott mentions it in the "Pirate"; the

bad luck which these coast-folk had in view being the fact that a

rescued personage could claim his property that the sea had cast up.

[Illustration: MORWENSTOW.

_Photo by Gibson & Sons._]

Hawker was born in Norley Street, Plymouth, December 29, 1803; his

grandfather and uncle were both clergy in Plymouth at the time. Thus,

though he has won a world-wide fame as the Cornish poet, Hawker was

really Devonian; in this borderland of the two counties there is

practically no difference. In the same manner the Grenvilles were of

Devonshire, yet Cornwall treasures their memories with justifiable

pride. In after years Hawker used to say that, could his mother have

foreseen how sorrowful his life would be, she would have given a

gentle pressure to his throat in his first hour, and so have averted

all his earthly trials. He grew to be a mischievous and daring lad.

One of his pranks was to swim out to the crags at the mouth of Bude

haven, and there pose as a mermaid; which he did to the prolonged

bewilderment of the countryfolk. He was educated at Liskeard,

Cheltenham, and Oxford; coming to Morwenstow in 1834 after having held

the curacy of North Tamerton. He had already married a lady who was

twenty years older than himself--a marriage of the deepest lasting

affection. His second marriage, in his old age, was to a lady forty

years his junior; but by this time the poet's spirit had been broken

by solitude, grief, failure to win literary success, and by the

terrible scenes of shipwreck and death that often distracted him. He

died in 1875, having been received into the Romish Church a few hours

before his death; and the remains were laid in Plymouth Cemetery. On

his tombstone is a line from his own beautiful poem, "The Quest of the

Sangraal"--

"I would not be forgotten in this land."

There is now an elaborate memorial window in Morwenstow Church,

unveiled in 1904. The poet has not been forgotten in this land, nor is

he likely to be. He has impressed himself so vividly on the district

that was long his home, that we may now as justly speak of the Hawker

country as we do of the Scott or the Wordsworth country. The work was

accomplished even more by the man's personality than by his writings.

If only these writings had been preserved he would not pass to

posterity quite as fully as he merited; only a portion of the man

would survive. But there was the tradition of the man himself,

assisted by some inadequate memoirs; and now we have one of the most

charming biographies of recent times to bring him before us. He was

not only poet and essayist; he was cleric and mystic, preacher,

prophet, symbolist, philanthropist--some may add reactionary. His life

was permeated with Catholic doctrine and colour. When he passed, in

his closing hours, to a sister communion, the step was a natural and

easy one, however unnecessary some of us may think it to have been. He

loved the Church of England devotedly and unfailingly; but he always

looked upon her as the Old Church, rather than as a reformed body; and

to his unquestioning mind a few extra dogmas would never have

presented any difficulty. It was disbelief, doubt, that he abhorred.

Like Sir Thomas Browne, he was greedy for more mysteries, more

marvels, more sublimities for unhesitating acceptance. He was always

in sympathy both with the Roman and the early Greek Churches, and

sometimes in his own ritual he borrowed from both; yet he could

fulminate hotly enough at times against the excesses of either. He

loved deeply and hated strongly; but the love was permanent and real,

the hatred transient and superficial.

He had a lifelong bitterness against Dissenters, and lived on the

tenderest terms with many. His bark was very much worse than his bite.

"I understand, Mr. Hawker," once said a Nonconformist lady to him,

"that you have an objection to burying Dissenters?" "Madam," he

replied, "I should be only too delighted to bury you all." But there

was no real sting behind the words, and some of his dearest and

kindest parishioners were not Churchmen. He spent his days in doing

good deeds to man and beast, saving strangers from the devouring sea,

or giving their bodies Christian burial; tutoring the rugged hearts of

his people; and living himself, in spite of much sorrow,

disappointment, loss, in a world of holy dream and vision, conversing

in spirit with saints and angels. Hawker believed that his dear

country was given over to doubt and laxity; and every affliction of

war, misfortune, bad weather, he interpreted as the chastening hand of

God. He would have had his world coloured entirely by faith and

religious observance; stained as it were, like the glass of church

windows, by sacred image and story. But practicalities pressed heavily

upon him and almost broke his heart; his poetic impulse failed under

sore discouragement; he did not proceed with his finest poem; those of

his poems that became popular did so without the attachment of his

name. Very much of this was due to his own procedure; yet the man had

much hardship, neglect, and suffering, for which he could in no sense

be held responsible. He was a true descendant of the early Cornish

saints, born perhaps several centuries too late, and thrust upon a

world where he had to turn to sea and wind and woodland for the mystic

symbolism which was his life-breath, finding too little of it in the

ways and words of Victorian England.

The present vicarage at Morwenstow was built by Hawker himself, there

having been no vicar in residence for long years before his coming. It

was here, in 1848, that Tennyson visited him, coming over from Bude,

where he was staying at the Falcon Hotel. In stepping hastily from the

garden to reach the sea, when he first arrived, the poet had fallen;

there was no protecting rail there at that time. The injury proved so

serious that he had to see a surgeon; and this surgeon happened to be

Mr. John Dinham, Hawker's brother-in-law. Two days after the accident

Tennyson drove over to Morwenstow with Dinham to see Hawker. His own

note on the visit is brief and unsatisfying: "In a gig to Rev. S.

Hawker, at Morwenstow, passing Comb Valley, fine view over sea,

coldest manner of vicar till I told my name, then all heartiness. Walk

on cliff with him; told of shipwreck." This is very meagre. Happily

Hawker himself wrote down a more detailed account, and this was

discovered among his brother's papers. It was headed with a cross,

signifying that it recorded what Hawker deemed a mark of divine

favour. "It was in the month of June, 1848, that my brother-in-law,

John Dinham, arrived at Morwenstow with a very fine-looking man whom

he had been called in to attend professionally at Bude for an injury

in the knee from a fall.... I found my guest at his entrance a tall,

swarthy, Spanish-looking man, with an eye like a sword. He sate down,

and we conversed. I at once found myself with no common mind. All

poetry in particular he seemed to use like household words.... Before

we left the room he said, 'Do you know my name?' I said, 'No, I have

not even a guess.' 'Do you wish to know it?' 'I don't much care--that

which we call a rose, &c.' 'Well then,' said he, 'my name is

_Tennyson_!' 'What!' said I, '_the_ Tennyson?' 'What do you mean by

_the_ Tennyson? I am Alfred Tennyson who wrote Locksley Hall, which

you seem to know by heart.' So we grasped hands, and the Shepherd's

heart was glad.... Then, seated on the brow of the cliff, with

Dundagel full in view, he revealed to me the purpose of his journey to

the West. He is about to conceive a poem--the hero King Arthur--the

scenery in part the vanished Land of Lyonesse, between the mainland

and the Scilly Isles.... Then evening fell. He arose to go; and I

agreed to drive him on his way. He demanded a pipe, and produced a

package of very common shag. By great good luck my sexton had about

him his own short black dudheen, which accordingly the Minstrel filled

and fired. Wild language occupied the way, until we shook farewell at

Combe. 'This,' said Tennyson, 'has indeed been a day to be

remembered.'" Hawker had a presentiment that they would never meet

again, and they never did, though Tennyson visited Cornwall in later

years. There was some slight correspondence, and an interchange of

books; but the two drifted apart in spirit--perhaps they had never

been very near. Tennyson's theology was that of Maurice, whom Hawker

came to regard as an arch-enemy of Catholic truth. On one ground they

both met in later life--when they chose the subject of the Holy Grail

for poetic treatment; and on this ground the lesser poet beat the

greater, as Tennyson himself frankly acknowledged. Yet both in their

different ways lived near to the spirit that is typified by the Grail;

but the one abode in solitude on his wild Cornish cliffs and the other

lived in the blaze of popular fame, visited and loved by the greatest

in the land. Who shall say that Hawker's life, after all, was not the

nearest to his best ideals? Morwenstow vicarage is curious for its

chimneys, which Hawker himself designed from church-towers in his

neighbourhood and at Oxford. The church and vicarage stand in

loneliness; there is no central village at Morwenstow, but the

residences are scattered about the swelling downs and high-banked

lanes. At the entrance to the graveyard is the lich-gate and mortuary,

where many wrecked seamen were taken for burial. Such burials recall

the unforgettable incident that occurred during the conveyance of one

poor mangled body from the shore. "It was dark, and the party of

bearers, with the Vicar at their head, were making their way slowly up

the cliff by the light of torches and lanterns, when suddenly there

arose from the sea three hearty British cheers. A vessel had neared

the shore, and the crew, discovering by night-glasses what was taking

place, had manned their yards to greet the fulfilment of duty to a

brother mariner's remains." Morwenstow is really Morwenna-stow,

Morwenna being a grand-daughter of Brychan, and thus belonging to a

famous Welsh family of saints. The church is therefore a Celtic

foundation, not Saxon as Hawker believed; he was always a little shaky

in such details. In some maps and old local signposts the name is

still written Moorwinstow, and was anciently Morestowe. Probably the

earliest relic in the church itself is the font, which appears to

belong to the tenth century; three typical Norman pillars support the

northern arcade of the roof, and there is a very fine Norman door at

the south porch. The Vicar loved to interpret the zigzag moulding as

the "ripple of the lake of Gennesareth, the spirit breathing upon the

waters of baptism"; he was doubtless more correct in reading a

symbolic meaning into the carved vine that creeps from the chancel

down the church. On the furze and bracken-clad slope above the cliffs,

not far distant, is the hut that Hawker himself constructed, building

it of wreckage; this was the sanctuary to which he loved to retreat

for contemplation and literary work. It was here that he wrote his

Sangraal poem, and the strong picture of its close might apply to this

scene as forcibly as it does to its original.

In this parish is Tonacombe, a finely preserved specimen of the

mediaeval manor-house, its hall containing the old minstrels' gallery.

This deeply interesting house has many memories of Charles Kingsley as

well as of Hawker. Kingsley was a visitor here while writing his

_Westward Ho!_ and Tonacombe figures in that book as "Chapel." Hawker

met Kingsley at this time, and introduced him to the Grenville

localities. It is not likely that the two men got on well together;

they were complete contrasts in nature and gifts. Hawker did not care

greatly for _Westward Ho!_ when it appeared, and thought its local

colour defective. He rarely mentioned Kingsley in later life without a

note of depreciation. He was far more in sympathy, intellectually and

spiritually, with Kingsley's great antagonist, John Henry Newman. At

Tonacombe are preserved a curious old lantern and walking-stick that

formerly belonged to Hawker. The lantern "was made for Thomas Waddon

of Tonacombe, who died in 1755. His brother Edward Waddon lived at

Stanbury, and their sister Honor was the wife of the Rev. Oliver

Rouse, Vicar of Morwenstow. The three families used to meet regularly

at each other's houses for dice and cards. In the excess of their

merriment the cronies would dash their glasses on the table, and the

broken pieces were preserved as a record of the jest. In course of

time there was a goodly collection of these fragments, and in order

that their memorial should not perish the lantern was made of solid

oak, square, with a pointed roof and little windows formed of the

round bases of the broken glasses and other pieces cut in the shape of

dice, hearts, clubs, diamonds, and spades. Thereafter, when the

festive party broke up, those whose turn it was to walk homewards

through the dark lanes had their way lighted before them by this

emblem of their wit and humour." Stanbury, an old manor south of

Tonacombe, claims some notice as the birthplace of John Stanbury (or

Stanberry), confessor of Henry VI., who was appointed by that king to

be first Provost of Eton. From being a Carmelite friar at Oxford he

rose to be bishop, first of Bangor, finally of Hereford. He died in

the Carmelite convent at Ludlow, 1474, and was buried at Hereford.

Marsland-mouth, the northward boundary of Morwenstow parish, is also

the boundary between Cornwall and Devon. Its utter loneliness and

wildness are in complete contrast to the great southward boundary at

the mouth of the Three Rivers. Here at Marsland Devon and Cornwall

merge imperceptibly; the characteristics of the one are carried over

into the other; in scenery, people, dialect, no change can be noted.

This close community was emphasised, in Hawker's day, by the fact that

for the last twenty-five years of his life he held charge of Welcombe

parish as well as Morwenstow, Welcombe (most suitably named) being the

first parish in Devon. In his old age, when Dr. Temple was appointed

to the diocese of Exeter, the Vicar had some fear that he would be

deprived of this additional cure, as Temple was expected to be no

friend to Dr. Phillpotts' nominees; but, somewhat to his surprise,

Hawker found that he got on fairly well with the new Bishop, though he

detested his theological standpoints. Obviously, the name of Welcombe

might be "Well-combe," there being a holy well of St. Nectan here; but

that derivation does not seem to be correct. In the Exeter Domesday

Book the parish is given as _Walcomba_, and probably the name

signified Welsh-combe, marking the juncture when Saxonised West Devon

passed into "West Wales." The church is three miles' distance from

Morwenstow, and Hawker used to ride over every Sunday afternoon for

service. On one occasion he forgot to bring his watch, and he needed

some guide in timing his service so that he might return to officiate

at Morwenstow in the evening. He asked the folk standing about the

church porch if they could oblige him in this particular. "But time is

of no great import at Welcombe, and no watch was to be had. At last,

just as the service was beginning, an old woman hobbled up the aisle

and handed to the Vicar a large and ancient timepiece. 'Her's only got

one hand, your honour,' she said, 'but yu must just gi' a guess.'"

Perhaps the name Welsh-combe (Welsh being taken in the old sense of

"foreign") denoted some survival of earlier occupation here, some

lingering neolithic remnant; the Welcombe folk are still distinguished

by their dark hair and skins, and as being somewhat of a race apart.

In Hawker's day they were very ignorant and superstitious, though

sufficiently devout. They had "no farrier for their cattle, no medical

man for themselves, no beer-house, no shop; a man who travels for a

distant town (Stratton) supplies them with sugar by the ounce, or tea

in smaller quantities still. Not a newspaper is taken in throughout

the hamlet, although they are occasionally astonished and delighted by

the arrival, from some almost forgotten friend in Canada, of an

ancient copy of the _Toronto Gazette_. This publication they pore over

to weariness, and on Sunday they will worry the clergyman with

questions about Transatlantic places and names, of which he is obliged

to confess himself utterly ignorant. An ancient dame once exhibited

her prayer-book, very nearly worn out, printed in the reign of George

II., and very much thumbed at the page from which she assiduously

prayed for the welfare of Prince Frederick." He himself used to act

as their postman. Perhaps it is misleading to say that Welcombe is

only three miles from Morwenstow; visitors who try to find their way

through the rambling narrow lanes will find it much nearer to five or

six. But the loveliness of Marsland vale is a recompense, and a

charming introduction to the beauties of North Devon.

On the Cornish side of Marsland-mouth is a secluded old farmhouse,

which Hawker solemnly averred was haunted. It was once truly haunted

by smugglers. Mr. Baring-Gould introduces it into his novel, _The

Gaverocks_. Hawker once said to a visitor, "You must go and look at

the old house there--there is a very curious old lady there you may

see--come into my study and I will show you her picture--she died, at

least her body did, some sixty years ago. I frequently see her and

talk with her." This spot must not be quitted without recalling that

Marsland-mouth is the home of Lucy Passmore, the white witch in

_Westward Ho!_ It was hither that Rose Salterne came to perform the

love-charm that should reveal her lover. It can hardly be said that

such superstitions have yet died out of the West Country, but it is

the older people now that cherish these ideas, secretly and furtively.

The youngsters are being taught differently in the Council Schools.

There are some fine headlands in this part of the coast, such as the

two Sharpnose Points, but the finest of all is Hennacliff, which rises

to about 450 feet, and drops sheer into the Atlantic waves. Even where

there is a beach beneath these rugged cliffs, it is usually difficult

to reach; in many parts the breakers dash full against the granite

precipices, and there are often outlying reefs of cruel jagged crag.

Noting the deadly features of the coast, we can understand how even

Bude attained its name of Haven, however bitterly ironic that name may

often have sounded. But it is a grand coast and mainland confronting

the wild, unresting sea, and the traditional atmosphere of the

district is wholly in keeping with its physical features. Rumours of

bygone peoples float around us--of Saxon and Celt and of earlier

people still; the legends that they fostered are repeated to us, the

footsteps of old saints may be traced, together with secular records

of pirate and smuggler. There are memories of glorious and gracious

personages, as well as of those whose villainy at least was

picturesque; there are sad memorials of shipwreck, death, and

heartbreak. There are stretches of undulating upland, with fragrant

turf, gorse, bracken; valleys almost too low for sunlight to enter,

the wild and tortuous mouths of rapid streams, patches of meadow and

pasture, with lonely cottages and isolated church-towns. Different

from the southern coast in aspect, more desolate, less fertile, there

is yet a special charm even in the desolation, a stimulating appeal in

the solitude, and a marvellous purity in the bracing winds that blow,

sometimes with ruthless violence, from a thousand leagues of ocean.

INDEX

Acland, Sir T., 358

Addison, 109

Agnes, St., 356, 360

Aitken, Rev. R., 223

Anthony-in-Meneage, 110-11

Anthony-in-Roseland, 79

Antony, East, 27

Armada, Spanish, 20, 25-7

_Armorel of Lyonesse_, 198, 208

Arthur, King, 335-46

Arundel _family_, 292-9

Arundel, John, 86-7, 270, 362

Arwenack, 86, 88

Athelstan, 184-5, 197

Atwell, Martin, 69

Austell, St., 66

Baring-Gould, Rev. S., 36, 51, 326, 365, 379

Bassets, 254-6

Bedruthan Steps, 293-4

_Bencoolen_, Wreck of the, 355

Benson, Dr., 103, 210

Besant, Sir W., 198

Bessie's Cove, 159

Beville, Sir J., 40

Bligh, Capt., 110

Bochym, 138

Bodinnick, 51

Bodmin, 319

Bodmin Moors, 301

Bodrigan, 73

Boleigh, 184

Bolster, 260-1

Bonaparte, Lucien, 180

Borlase, Dr., 115, 223, 242

Borrow, George, 180

Boscastle, 347-51

Bossiney, 346

Braddon, W., 352-3

Breage, St., 151, 188

Breock, St., 325-6

Brett, J., 178

Brutus, 17

Bude, 354-8

Burney, Fanny, 22

Buryan, St., 185-6, 197, 265

Byron, 81

Cadgwith, 118

Calais, Siege of, 60

Cambeak, 352

Camelford, 339

Cape Cornwall, 221

Carclaze Mine, 67

Cardinham, 339

Carew, 28, 73, 257, 357

Carhays, St. Michael, 76

Carminow, 143

Carnanton, 299

Carn Beacon, 78

Carn Brea, 256

Carn Galva, 225

Carn Kenidzhek, 222

Carter, "King of Prussia," 158

Cataclew Stone, 306

Cawsand, 24, 38

Celts, 17, 58, 147, 273

Chapel Carn Brea, 221

Charlestown, 65, 67

China-clay, 64, 66-7

Choughs, 352

Chun Castle, 224

Chysauster, 170

Cinque Ports, 60

Clarendon, 76, 87

Coleridge, Derwent, 147

Collins, Rev. J., 95

Columb Major and Minor, St., 288, 290

Constantine, St., 305-6

Cook, Capt., 92

Coppinger, Cruel, 329, 365-6

Corineus, 17-18

Cornish character, 147, 252

Cornish language, 96, 124-5, 180, 236

Cornwall, Formation and appearance, 14-15

Cotehele, 24

Couch, Jonathan, 44, 46

Couch, Sir A. T. Quiller, 60

Coverack, 117

Crackington Cove, 352

Crantock, 277-82

Crantock Church, 280-1

Crowza Downs, 116

Cubert, 274, 276

Cuby, St., 274

Cury, St., 138-9

Damelioc, 336

Davy, Sir Humphry, 173

Defoe, 82, 108, 170

Dingerrein, 77

Disraeli, B., 82

Dodman, 75

Dollar Hugo, 122

Doom Bar, 310-19

Dosmare Pool, 77, 146, 315

Downderry, 27, 40

Drake, 19, 26

Drayton, 17

Dryden, 89

Dunstanville, de, 256, 259

Dutch, 63

Edgcumbe, 20, 24, 73, 75

Edward IV., 62

Egloshayle, 325

Enodoc's, St., 326-9, 365

Eval, St., 301

Evelyn, 152

Ewe, St., 69

Exmouth, Lord, 173

Fal, River, 100

Falmouth, 81-96

Finbar, St., 59

Fishery, 35, 71-2

Flavel, 133

Flushing, 98

_Fogous_, 122, 184, 302

Forbes, Stanhope, 177

Forrabury, 347

Fowey, 55-65

Fyn and Joan, 38

Gannel, 277, 285

Garrick, 22

Genny's, St., 352

George's, St. (Looe Isle), 37

Geraint, 77-9

Germoe, 153-4

Gerrans Bay, 77

Gilbert, 74

Gildas, 305

Glassiney College, 96

Glastonbury, 339

Godolphin _family_, 151-3, 198

Godolphin Hill, 153

Godrevy Rock and Lighthouse, 253

Goethe, 135

Gogmagog, 17-8

Goonhilly Downs, 115, 142

Gorlois, 336

Gorran Haven, 74-5

Gotham, Men of, 75

Grade, 121

Grenville _family_, 40, 51, 199, 359, 364

Grenville, Sir Bevil, 40, 76, 359-62, 364

Grenville, Grace, 359-62

Gulf Stream, 207

Gulval, 175

Gunwalloe, 141

Gurnard's Head, 225

Gweek, 107, 108

Gwythian, St., 251

Gyllyngvase, 86

Hall House, 50

Hals, 61, 246, 275

Halsetown, 246

Halzaphron, 143

Harlyn Bay, 306

Hawker, Rev. R. S., 41, 345-7, 348, 355-7, 362, 369-78

Hayle, 251

Helford, 106-7, 306

Heligan, 68-9

Helston, 144-6, 316

Hennacliff, 379

Henry VII., 25

Henry VIII., 99

Hereward the Wake, 107

Hervey, Rev. J., 364-5

Hilary, 163

Hind, C. L., 320

_Holy Grail, High History of the_, 342

Holywell Bay, 274-5

Housel Bay, 126

Hudson, W. H., 148, 178, 215

Hurling, Game of, 289-90

Ia, St., 232

_Ictis_, 160

Illogan, 257, 259

Irving, Sir Henry, 246-8

Ives, St., 231-46, 254, 256

Ives, St., Borough Accounts, 237-42

Jews in Cornwall, 160

Johns, Rev. C. A., 122, 145, 147

Johnson, Dr., 22

Juliet, St., 342

Just, St., 116

Just-in-Penwith, St., 221

Kaiser, the, 21

Kelly Rounds, 336

Kennack Sands, 118

Kenwyn, 104

Keverne, St., 115-17

Kilkhampton, 359, 364

Killigarth, 40

Killigrews, 85-6, 88-90, 95, 97

King Harry's Ferry, 101

Kingsand, 24

Kingsley, Rev. C., 70, 107, 147, 375-6

Knighton's Kieve, 347

Knill Monument, 248-9

Kynance, 128

Lamorna, 183

Landewednack, 123-4

Land's End, 211-17

Langarrow, 276-9

Lanherne, Vale and Nunnery of, 249-6

Lansallos, 46

Lanshadron, 69

Lanteglos-by-Fowey, 48-50

Lanyon Quoit, 224

Leland, 45, 142, 341, 348

Lelant, 235, 249-50

Levan, St., 188-9

Levant, 222

Lizard, 123

Lizard Lighthouse, 127

Lizard Town, 126

Loe Pool, 144-6

Logan Stone, 186-7

Longships, 217

Looe, 29-40

Looe Island, 37

Lostwithiel, 63

Lovibond, T., 325

Lyonesse, 14-5, 194-6, 279

Macdonald, George, 359

Madron, St., 168, 176, 351

Mail Packets (Falmouth), 90-5

Maker, 24

Manaccan, 110

Manacles, 111-12

Marazion, 159

Marconi Station, 136-8

Market-Jew, 160

Marsland-mouth, 377-9

Martin, St., 35-6

Mary's, St. (Scilly), 193

Mawes, St., 81, 99

Mawgan-in-Meneage, 107

Mawgan-in-Pydar, 299

Mawgan Porth, 293

Mawnan, 106

_Men Scryfa_, 224

_Men-an-tol_, 224

Menabilly, 64

Menagew, 67

Meneage, 107

Merlin, 195, 218

Merry Maidens, 185

Merryn, St., 305-6

Mevagissey, 69-73

Michael, St., 25, 160, 358

Michael's Mount, St., 159-66

Milliton, 154

Milton, 17

Minster, 351

Mohuns, 50

Mordred, 195, 340

Morvah, 223

Morwenstow, 369, 374-5

Mount's Bay, 150

Mount Edgcumbe, 20-4

Mousehole, 179-83

Mullion, 131-2

Mylor, 98-9

Napoleon III., 21

Nare Head, 77

Nash, 76

Nectan, St., 347, 377

Neolithic cemetery, 306-10

Newlyn, 176-8

Newquay, 287

Norway, A. H., 43, 90, 173, 326, 329

Noye, W., 299

Olaf, King, 197

Opie, 262-3

Ordulf, 121

Padstow, 301, 319-22

Par, 64

Paul, 179

Payne, Anthony, 359

Pellew (Lord Exmouth), 173

Pendeen, 222-3

Pendennis, 81, 86-8

Pengersick, 154

Penny-come-quick, 85

Penpoll Creek (Newquay), 285

Penryn, 85, 96-8

Pentewan, 67

Pentire Glaze, 329

Pentreath, Dolly, 179-80

Penwarne, 73

Penzance, 167-74

Perranporth, 264

Perranuthnoe, 159

Perranzabuloe, 266

Petherick, Little, 319

Petrock, St., 305, 316, 319

Phillack, 250

Pigeon Hugo, 131

Pilchards, 35, 71-2, 118, 244, 287, 333

Pipers, the, 185

Piran, St., 115, 159, 264-70

Place House, 59, 79, 321

_Plan-an-guare_, 221, 257, 270

Plymouth, 15-20

Poldhu, 136-8

Pole-Carew, 27

Polkinghorne, 250

Polperro, 42-7

Polruan, 48-9

Poltesco, 118

Polwhele, 110

Polzeath, 329

Port Isaac, 333-4

Porthcothan, 301-2

Porthcurnow, 187

Porthglaze, 226

Porthgwarra, 189

Porthleven, 150

Porthoustock, 111, 113

Porthpean, 67

Portloe, 77

Portholland, 77

Portmellin, 73

Portreath, 259

Portscatho, 79

Poughill, 363

Praa Sands, 157

Prideaux, Dean, 321-2

Prideaux Place, 321

Prussia Cove, 157

Prussia, King of, 158

Rame Head, 25, 75

Rashleigh, 64

Reynolds, Sir J., 21

Roads, 16

Rocky Valley, 346

Romanism in England, 273

Romans, 16, 104

Roseland, 77

Rosemullion, 106

Ruan or Rumon, St., 121

Ruan Lanihorne, 121

Samson, St., 198

Sandplace, 40

Scilly cable, 206

Scilly flowers, 203-5

Scilly Islands, 190

Scilly, Origin of name, 196-7

Scilly, St. Mary's, 193, 207

Scilly seabirds, 209

Scilly, Tresco, 197-8, 200, 208

Seagulls, 53, 244

Sennen, 217-18

Serpentine, 122

Shuttleworth, Professor, 326

Sidonia, Medina, 20, 26

Slanning, 76

Smith, Augustus, 200

Southey, 166

Stamford Hill, Battle of, 255, 360

Stanbury, 376

Storm of 1703, 108-9

Stowe, 359

Stratton, 359

Submarine platform, 13

Swinburne, 347

Talland, 32

Tavistock, 121

Tehidy, 254-6

Teilo, St., 78

Tennyson, 101-2, 145, 212, 341, 354, 372-4

Tewdrig, 235, 249

Thackeray, 50

Tin, 16

Tintagel, 335-46

Tonacombe, 375-6

Tonkin, 263

Towednack, 230, 235

Trackways, 16

Trebarwith, 324

Treffry, 59, 62

Tregeagle, 313-19

Tregonning, 153

Trelawne, 41

Trelawney, 41-2

Trenwith, 236

Trerice, 296

Treryn Dinas (logan stone), 186-7

Treryn Dinas (Gurnard's Head), 225

Tresco Abbey, 197-8, 200

Trevanion, 76

Trevemper, 285

Trevena (Tintagel), 342, 346

Trevithick, 257-9

Trevose, 310

Trewoofe (or Troove), 184

Truro, 100-4

Tywardreath, 65

Uny, St., 151

Uther, 336

Valency, River, 348

Vandevelde, 21

Veryan, 77

Victoria, Queen, 101

Wadebridge, 325

Warbeck, Perkin, 236

Watergate, 40

Welcombe, 377-8

Wesley, 148, 242, 261

Western Rebellion, 236

Whitaker, 110

Whitesand Bay, 25, 27, 38, 221

Widemouth Bay, 353

Winoc, St., 123, 230

Winwaloe, 123-4, 139

Wolcot, Dr., 262

Wolf Lighthouse, 217

Wyllow, St., 48

Zennor, 226-9

Zose Point, 79

The G. W. R. Series of TRAVEL BOOKS

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LIST OF TRAVEL BOOKS AND SOME PRESS OPINIONS.

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TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE.

Spelling variants occurring in names have been preserved.

The Cornwall Coast · 第 18 / 18 章