A TRIP UP LAKE SUPERIOR.
It had been arranged that directly the holidays commenced at the
Shingwauk Home, the Bishop and myself should start on a Missionary tour
up Lake Superior, the plan being simply as follows:--We would take with
us our boat, _The Missionary_, five or six Indian boys to man it,
and provisions for six or seven weeks. We would first proceed by
steamboat 300 miles direct to Prince Arthur's Landing, taking our boat
on board; remain there about a week, during which we would pay a visit
into the interior; then coast the whole way back, visiting all the
Indians along the north shore of the Lake.
When we reached the Landing, the Indian superintendent, to our great
satisfaction, invited us to join him in an expedition to the "Height of
Land" where he was going to pay the wild Indian tribes their annuity
money.
At length after four days we reached the Hudson Bay waters, the
Savanne connecting through a long chain of lakes and rivers with Lake
Winnipeg. Lac des Milles Lacs, into which we soon entered, is a perfect
labyrinth of lakes and islands. Here and there were expectant Indians
come out to meet us in their frail bark canoes, and, paddling up
alongside, they joined the cluster at our stern. A strange and
impressive sight was it when we at length hove in sight of the "Height
of Land," a huge rocky eminence like an upturned basin, literally
swarming all over with Indians, in every position and every imaginable
costume. One solitary wigwam stood at the top and others could just be
seen, betraying a considerable village in the rear. A large Union Jack
also floated from a mast planted in the rock. There they sat and
crouched and smoked, or stood, or leaned with that majestic composure
peculiar to the Indian race; while below, on the slippery sides of the
rock, tumbled and rolled about their dirty children, or prowled their
grim and wolfish-looking dogs. It was a gay holiday time for them all.
For three days and three nights pork and flour and tobacco would be
flowing freely into their laps from their great and good mother, the
Queen; and to every individual, man, woman, and child, yea, to even the
papoose of a day old, would be given L1 to spend as they pleased.
We got our tents pitched--the Bishop's and our own--and then went out
to survey the scene. A most novel and interesting one indeed it was,
wigwams on all sides of us, some of them containing perhaps forty
people, others conical, in which were two or three families with a fire
common to them all in the middle. In the water near the dock were
several boys bathing and diving, as though perfectly in their element.
Here and there stalked a stately chief in his scarlet coat, leggings,
mocassins, and feathers in his head. The councillors, of which there
were three to each band, wore dark coats with scarlet trimmings. But
there were more outlandish personages than these to be seen; tall, lank
men, with nothing on them but a scarlet blanket wound around the naked
body, at times covering the shoulders, at times drawn only around the
waist. Nearly all had plaited hair and silver earrings, and many had
feathers in their heads, or head-dresses of beads and ribbons. The
squaws were dressed much the same as our own Indians in bodices and
skirts, though not quite so tidily. Some of the bead-work worn by the
men was very handsome; it consisted mostly of garters below the knee,
waistbands and tobacco-pouches worn round the neck and covering the
front of the body. They also had their curiously-carved pipes, some of
them with stems a yard long, tomahawks, knives, and other appendages.
Soon men and squaws were seen wending their way to their wigwams,
bending under the weight of a side of bacon or a bag of flour. Now was
a high time of joviality for them all--even the dogs licked their lips
and prepared for the feast.
A crowd collected in rear of the Government buildings; and squatting
upon mats on the ground were the musicians, three or four in number,
beating away vigorously at their very unmusical drums--just the size
and shape of a flat cheese, their drumsticks being shaped like a crook.
Soon the war-dancers appeared upon the scene, each with a whoop and a
flourish of his knife or tomahawk. Conspicuous among them was
Blackstone--no longer in European dress, but with legs bare on either
side to his hips--a white shirt almost hidden by massive beadwork
ornaments, long braided hair, feathers in his head, and his right hand
flourishing a bayonet. The dancing consisted in the actors leaping
suddenly to their feet with a whoop, and working the whole body
convulsively up and down while standing on their toes, without moving
from their position, a monotonous whirring sound being kept up all the
time, in which the squaws sitting around assisted. This was kept up
long enough for me to sketch one man, when with another whoop and a
flourish they sank into a squatting position, the drums still going on
unceasingly. After a little rest up they got again, and so it kept on
for a couple of hours. The proceedings, however, were broken in the
middle by a speech from Blackstone.
When it was nearly tea-time I went out to look for my boys, and found
Esquimau talking to an old man under a bark shelter with a stick or two
burning at their feet; the old man was living quite alone and this was
his wigwam, just room for him to lie down and no more. I sent the
younger boys to light a fire and get tea ready, and then stayed with
Esquimau to talk to the old man. When he found I was going to speak
about religion, he called to his children--two men and a squaw--to come
and listen. Another man came up, and in rather an officious manner
informed me that it was no use for me to talk to the Indiana about
religion; that they would not listen to me, and did not intend to
accept Christianity. The Great Spirit, he continued, has made us all,
and he has given one religion to the whites and another to the Indians.
He does not wish his red children to accept the white man's religion. I
said I was sorry that any of them should think that, but that if any of
them did not wish to hear me they could go somewhere else, and I would
talk only to the old man. The old man, however, had now changed his
mind and said he did not wish to hear me speak. Several others came
round and all said that I must not speak to them about Christianity.
One said their custom was for any one who wished to speak to them first
of all to put down tobacco. This roused me. "No!" I said, "I am not a
trader to carry tobacco about. I am working for my Master, the Great
Spirit: the Great Spirit has told His followers that when they go out
to preach they are not to carry money or anything else with them, they
are simply to tell His message, if they are received, it is well, if
not, they are to go away from that place and take the message to
others." I then said to Esquimau--"We had better kneel down and ask God
to help us, and teach us what to do." So we knelt, and each offered
prayer, amid the jeers and interruptions of the Indians. Then I stood
out among them and said in a loud voice, "My friends, I have come here
to see you about religion, not to buy and sell, and trade with you, but
to tell you about the Great Spirit who made you. Your Superintendent,
Mr. Wright, has come to pay you money, but I have come to speak to you
on religion. I have no tobacco, no pork, no money to give you. But I
come to tell you of God who made us, and of His Son who came into the
world to save us. I have been told that I must not speak, that none of
you will listen to me, but I tell you that I will speak to you: God has
told me to speak to you, so this evening I will come among you to
speak; those that wish to hear me can listen, those who will not hear
can keep away."
During tea it was arranged that the Bishop and myself, with the four
Indian boys, should go out about sundown and address the people. Before
starting we knelt together in the tent, and the Bishop offered up an
earnest prayer to God that He would give us grace and wisdom to speak,
and incline the hearts of these heathen people to hear and accept His
word.
On the road there we were met by Blackstone. He seemed very angry, and
said, "I am told that you are going to speak to the people to-night.
You must not speak to-night, you must wait until to-morrow." I said,
"No, my friend, I must speak to them to-night." "It shall not be," said
Blackstone, "you will not be listened to to-night; to-morrow I will let
you speak." I pointed to the sky, and said, "The Great Spirit has told
me to speak to-night and I must obey the Great Spirit, I cannot obey
man about this.". Blackstone still refused to allow me to speak, but I
was determined, and we went on. We went to the top of the rocky
elevation, and immediately began singing a hymn in Indian. Our boys
stood out nobly, and sang splendidly. I felt that it required more
determination on their part to face the opposition of their own people
than for us who were recognised as "black-coats."
The singing attracted a number of people around us, and I spoke out
loudly and addressed them. We then sang another hymn suitable for the
occasion and the boys sang out lustily, like good soldiers of Christ.
After this the Bishop gave a short, but very earnest and pointed
address. Then Esquimau spoke very freely and forcibly, urging upon the
people to give up their vain customs and accept Christianity. Then we
knelt on the bare rock and prayed God to turn the hearts of the people
to Himself, after which we left. Quite a number of people had gathered
together when the singing commenced, and remained during more than half
the time.
_July_ 24.--The next evening we had service again; myself and my
four boys standing on the summit of the rocky eminence in the dim
twilight, wigwams on all sides below us; a couple of old women cooking
at a fire just beside us, and a few straggling Indians or children
lying or sitting about. We sang a hymn in Indian at the top of our
voices. This brought a great many people out, but not so many as last
night. Then I addressed them.
We then sang another hymn, after which Esquimau spoke and urged the
people to give up their vain customs and to become Christians; and,
after kneeling on the hard rock and offering up an earnest prayer to
God to change the hearts of these poor heathen, we departed.
Black clouds had gathered overhead and it was beginning to rain
heavily when we sought the shelter of our tent.
_July_ 25.--The day following Blackstone appeared at my tent
door. I asked him to come in but he declined. He seemed to be in a
better frame of mind, and spoke in friendly terms, telling me all about
the journey from here to the place where he generally lives, at the
North-west angle about 200 miles distant. I showed him a photograph of
the Shingwauk Home, and he asked some questions about it. He stayed
some little time, and then said that the Indians were going to hold a
council, and left.
About noon the boys returned with a tin pail of raspberries which we
stewed and had for dinner. The monotonous sing-song and drum-beating of
the Indians had been going on the whole morning in an adjoining wigwam;
we were expecting hourly that the council would begin, but Blackstone
kept putting it off. I suspected that he intended to have it at our
usual time of meeting so as to draw away the people, and so for that
reason we had our meeting earlier, about five o'clock. Before starting
I called the boys together into the tent, and, after reading a few
verses of Scripture, asked them if either of them were inclined to give
up the attempt to teach these heathen people; they had been with me
through it all, they had seen the reception we had met with, they had
acted their part according to the talent committed to them; would they
now give it up as hopeless, or would they go with me again to-night? To
this they each in turn replied cheerfully and earnestly that they
wished to go with me; so we knelt in prayer and asked for God's help
and proceeded forth once more to our rocky pulpit. We saw Blackstone
going to and fro among the wigwams, and I thought I would ask him once
more whether he would give his countenance to our service. So I called
to him, "Blackstone, may I speak to you?" "Pahmah, pahmah," (by-and-by,
bye-and-bye), was his reply; "I am busy just now." We waited until he
came round again, and as he merely brushed past I resolved to commence
at once. We chose a new situation this time, another rocky eminence in
the middle of the wigwams. We conducted our little service as usual,
and urged upon the people once more to forsake their customs and to
accept the crucified Saviour. When I spoke of the Resurrection of
Christ on the third day, there was a jeering laugh from some of the
Indians which made me think of Acts xvii. 32. Blackstone, as I had
expected, commenced his pow-pow or council directly we began our
service, and so drew away all the principal men.
But it was time to prepare for our departure.