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THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF EXETER
A Description of Its Fabric and a Brief History of the Episcopal See
by
PERCY ADDLESHAW, B.A. (Oxon.)
With XXXVII [Illustration] Illustrations
[Illustration: EXETER CATHEDRAL--FROM THE SOUTH-WEST.
The Photochrom. Co. Ld. Photo.]
London G. Bell and Sons, Ltd. 1921
First Published, January 1898
Second Edition, Revised, 1899
Third Impression, 1907
Fourth Impression, 1912
New and Revised Edition, 1921.
AUTHOR'S PREFACE
Among various books consulted the author specially owes his
acknowledgments to "The Fabric Rolls"; Leland's "Itinerary"; Holler's
"History"; Izacke's "Antiquities of Exeter"; Britton's "History and
Antiquities of Exeter"; "Transactions of Exeter Architectural Society";
Oliver's "Lives of the Bishops of Exeter"; Murray's "Handbook of
Exeter"; Archdeacon Freeman's "Architectural History of Exeter
Cathedral"; Professor Freeman's "Exeter" (Historic Towns Series);
Prince's "Worthies of Devon"; Worth's "History of Devonshire"; Fuller's
"Worthies of Devon"; Macaulay's "History of England"; and Green's "Short
History of the English People." The author would also express his
special thanks to the late Canon Hingeston-Randolph, the learned editor
of the Episcopal Registers of the Diocese, for information which
contributed largely to the improvement of the second edition of this
book.
PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION
In reissuing this handbook, which during the lapse of twenty-three years
had become out of date in many ways, the editor has introduced
considerable alterations in the arrangement of the matter, with a view
to facilitating its use as a guide to the various parts of the
Cathedral. For suggestions as to this, and for numerous improvements and
corrections in detail he is particularly indebted to Miss Beatrix F.
Cresswell, whose published works "Exeter Churches," "Notes on the
Churches of the Deanery of Ken," and "Edwardian Inventories for the City
and County of Exeter" have made her an authority on the ecclesiology of
the Diocese.
E.B.
_June_, 1921.
CONTENTS
PAGE
HISTORY OF THE CHURCH OF ST. MARY AND ST. PETER IN EXETER 1
THE FABRIC OF THE CATHEDRAL. EXTERIOR 19
The Towers 23
The Roof 24
The North Porch 24
The West Front 27
THE FABRIC OF THE CATHEDRAL. INTERIOR 31
The Nave 31
The Minstrels' Gallery 36
St. Radegunde's Chapel 36
St. Edmund's Chapel 39
Monuments in the Nave 39
The North Transept 43
Sylke Chantry 44
St. Paul's Chapel 44
The South Transept 44
Monuments in the South Transept 47
The Choir Screen 48
The Organ 52
The Choir 52
The Choir Stalls 55
The Reredos 56
The Bishop's Throne 56
The Sedilia 56
St. James' Chapel 59
St. Andrew's Chapel 61
The Ambulatory 61
Speke's Chantry 63
Bishop Oldham's Chantry 63
The Lady Chapel 65
Bronscombe's Tomb 66
Stafford's Tomb 66
Tomb of Sir John and Lady Doddridge 67
St. Gabriel's Chapel 69
Quivil's Tomb 69
St. Mary Magdalen Chapel 69
TOMBS IN THE CHOIR AND CHOIR AISLES 71
THE CHAPTER HOUSE AND CLOISTER 73
THE CLOSE AND CATHEDRAL LIBRARY 78
THE BISHOP'S PALACE 79
THE DIOCESE OF EXETER 83
ROUGEMONT CASTLE AND THE GUILDHALL 91
DIMENSIONS 96
INDEX 97
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
Exeter Cathedral--from the South-west _Frontispiece_
Arms of the Diocese _Title_
View of the Cathedral from the South xii
Interior--Chapter House 13
Exeter Cathedral, from an old print 21
The Cathedral--from the South-east 22
The Northern Tower 25
The West Front 26
Portals of the West Front 29
The Nave--from the South Transept 30
The Nave--looking West 33
Corbels and Bosses 34
The Minstrels' Gallery 35
Bays of Nave 37
The "Patteson" Pulpit 38
The Nave--looking East 41
The Transept--looking North 45
Interior in the last century 49
The Choir Screen 51
The Choir--looking West 53
The Choir before Restoration 54
The Choir--looking East 57
The Sedilia 58
Pulpit in the Choir 60
St. James' Chapel 61
St. George's Chapel 62
The Lady Chapel 64
Bishop Bronscombe's Monument 66
Screen of St. Gabriel's Chapel 68
Tomb of Bishop Stapledon 72
Monument of Bishop Marshall 73
The East Gate (pulled down in 1784) 77
The Bishop's Palace 81
Old Houses in Fore Street 90
Rougemont Castle 93
The Guildhall, Exeter 94
PLAN OF THE CATHEDRAL _at end_
[Illustration: EXETER CATHEDRAL, FROM THE SOUTH.]
EXETER CATHEDRAL.
HISTORY OF THE CHURCH OF ST. MARY AND ST. PETER IN EXETER.
The history of any ancient cathedral must always be interesting, and
that of Exeter is no exception, though "it supplies less of
architectural history than those churches whose whole character has been
altered over and over again." A cathedral represents not only the
spiritual, but the active, laborious, and artistic life of past
generations. The bishop, too, was in many ways the head man of the
province, and combined, not seldom, the varied qualities of priest,
warrior, and statesman. The acts of such ecclesiastics were full of
importance, not for their own city only, but often also for the whole
nation. As men who had frequently travelled much and studied deeply,
they summoned to their aid in the building and beautifying of their
churches the most skilled artists end artificers of their time; so, with
the story of the lives of the bishops of a diocese, the history of a
cathedral's building is inextricably woven. To be elevated to a
bishopric generally meant to be put into possession of great
wealth--when Veysey became bishop the revenues of the see of Exeter
have, by some authors, been computed at £100,000; Canon Hingeston-Randolph
puts them, with more reason and authority, at the sum of £30,000--and a
large portion of this money was spent on works connected with the chief
church of the diocese. It is not wonderful, therefore, this generosity
being joined to marvellous skill and taste, that our old cathedrals are
at once the despair and envy of the modern architect. And it is with a
feeling of reverence that one recalls the history of those who built in
the heart of each populous city "grey cliffs of lonely stone into the
midst of sailing birds and silent air."
The story of Exeter has an unique interest, and its church, as we shall
see, is in many respects without a rival. The fact that a building of
such great beauty should adorn a city so situated is remarkable; for
long after--as we read in Macaulay--weekly posts left London for various
parts of England, Exeter was still, as it were, on the borders of
territories scarcely explored, and was the furthest western point to
which letters were conveyed from the metropolis. Fuller thus describes
the county of Devonshire in his day (1646): "Devonshire hath the narrow
seas on the South, the Severn on the North, Cornwall on the West, Dorset
and Somersetshire on the East. A goodly province, the second in England
for greatness, clear in view without measuring, as bearing a square of
fifty miles. Some part thereof, as the South Hams, is so fruitful it
needs no art; but generally (though not running of itself) it answers to
the spur of industry. No shire showes more industrious, or so many
Husbandmen, who by Marle (blew and white), Chalk, Lime, Seasand,
Compost, Sopeashes, Rags and what not, make the ground both to take and
keep a moderate fruitfulness; so that Virgil, if now alive, might make
additions to his Georgicks, from the Plough-practice in this county. As
for the natives thereof, generally they are dexterous in any employment,
and Queen Elizabeth was wont to say of the gentry: _They were all born
courtiers with a becomming confidence_."
The city of Exeter is of great age. "Isca Damnoniorum, Caer Wise,
Exanceaster, Exeter, keeping essentially the same name under all
changes, stands distinguished as the one great city which has, in a more
marked way than any other, kept its unbroken being and its unbroken
position throughout all ages." But though Whitaker asserts that in the
middle of the fifth century it was the seat of a bishop, Professor
Freeman, with more authority, declares that the city did not become a
bishop's see till the latter half of the eleventh century, at which
period the bishopstools were removed from the small to the great towns.
Until 703 A.D. Devonshire formed part of the vast diocese of Wessex.
About the year 900 A.D. the diocese of Devon and Cornwall was divided
into two--the former with its bishop's seat at Crediton--only to be
reunited again a hundred and fifty years later when Leofric was
appointed bishop.
The first record of a church dedicated to SS. Mary and Peter in Exeter,
is that of an abbey church founded by Athelstan. But Sweyn destroyed it
seventy years later, and it seems frequently to have been attacked by
invaders previous to its destruction. But in 1019 Canute endowed a new
church and confirmed by charter their lands and privileges to the monks.
This building must have been of some pretensions, for it was given to
Leofric for his cathedral church in 1050. It occupied the site of the
present Lady Chapel. When Warelwast and Marshall built their Norman
church they placed it on the east of the old church, leaving an
intervening space. Their nave occupied the site of the present nave, the
transeptal towers were the same, but the choir was shorter and probably
terminated in an apse flanked by smaller apses at the ends of the choir
aisles. Traces of one of these have been found at the end of the third
bay of the north choir aisle. Bronscombe and Quivil (see p. 5) began
their reconstruction at this end, and by adding the ambulatory and Lady
Chapel linked together the sites of the old and new churches.
With the episcopate of Leofric, Exeter first assumes the rank of a
cathedral city. The sees of Devon and Cornwall had been held together by
Lyfing, the last bishop of Crediton. But Crediton, an unfortified
"vill," was an easy prey to the Irish, Danes, and other pirates, who
devastated the diocese from time to time. Leofric felt the urgent
necessity for a change, and fixed on the walled town of Exeter to be his
cathedral city. He sent a clerk to the pope asking him to write to the
king recommending the change. The king readily consented, and the church
of St. Mary and St. Peter was given to the bishop as his cathedral
church. The event was clearly regarded as of considerable importance,
for at his installation Edward the Confessor "supported his right arm
and Queen Eadgytha his left." Archbishops, bishops, and nobles also
assisted at the ceremony. Leofric proved a hard-working and wise
prelate, and gave generously of lands and moneys to his church. He had
found it but poorly furnished, the wardrobe only containing "one
worthless priest's dress." He also remembered it in his will, and the
great "Liber Exoniensis" was his gift.
But if the history of the see has its birth with Leofric, the story of
the cathedral begins with the appointment in 1107 of Warelwast as
bishop. This noteworthy man was a nephew of the Conqueror and chaplain
to both William II and Henry I. Inheriting to the full the Norman
passion for building, he pulled down the Saxon edifice and began to
erect a great Norman cathedral in its stead. The transeptal towers
attest the magnificence of his scheme. There is nothing quite like them
anywhere else, though at Barcelona and Chalons-sur-Marne may be seen
something similar. But they suffice to stamp him as an architect of
exceptional genius. He laboured zealously in other matters, founding at
Plympton a wealthy Augustinian priory; he also represented the king at
Rome in his famous quarrel with Anselm. It is said that he became blind
and died, an old man, at his priory of Plympton.
The next important date to notice is 1194, when Henry Marshall, brother
of Walter Earl Marshall, was made bishop. For two years the episcopal
throne had remained empty, the king being absent from England in the
Holy Land. But with the appointment of Marshall a most important stage
is reached. King John gave to the see the tithes of the tin in
Devonshire and Cornwall. This must have largely increased the episcopal
income, for Marshall quickly set about completing the work Warelwast had
begun a hundred years before. To this end he granted the emoluments of
St. Erth's Church, near Hayle, Cornwall, to be used towards defraying
the cost of repairs. He also called upon each householder to show his
interest in the work by subscribing, at Pentecost, an alms of "unum
obolum ad minim." For the sufficient remuneration of the choral vicars
he made over to them the church of St. Swithun in Woodbury, "with all
its appurtenances."
To Marshall we owe extensive additions to the nave, the north porch, and
the cloister doorway. He completed the Norman church begun by Warelwast,
but there is no evidence that he extended to the eastward, as is
sometimes stated. The position of the tomb in the "founder's place" on
the north side of the choir indicates that it terminated only a few
yards farther to the east. Beyond there must have been an open space
between the Norman and the old Saxon cathedrals.
For nearly fifty years there are but scant records of work done to the
building. Though Professor Freeman[1] speaks of its "not long-lived
perfection," it is quite possible that Marshall's work was considered,
by his own and the succeeding generation, to be final. Any interest
there may be in the lives of two of the succeeding bishops, until the
election of Bronscombe in 1257, is for the most part due to their
labours in other matters. For example, under Simon de Apulia, the city
of Exeter was divided into parishes; and by William Bruere the chapter
house and stalls of the old choir were completed. He was one of the
leaders of the English army at Acre in 1228. He also created the deanery
of Exeter.
[1] "Exeter" (Historic Towns Series), by Prof. E.A. Freeman
(Longmans).
But with the arrival of Walter Bronscombe a new career of architectural
energy begins. Now dawns that wonderful transformation period, at the
close of which the church stood pretty much as we now know it.
Concerning Bronscombe's character there has been somewhat bitter
dispute. It is certain that he was accused of craftiness and meanness.
But William of Worcester, whose testimony is valuable, called him Walter
le Good. Whatever may be the real truth of the matter, he seems to have
made an admirable bishop, his election reflecting considerable credit on
the acumen of those concerned in it. For he had not, surely, much to
recommend him, at first sight, for so important a position. Though he
was Archdeacon of Surrey at the time of his appointment, he was not a
priest, and he was quite a young man. He was a vigorous supporter of
learning throughout the diocese, probably because of his anxiety to give
other men of humble origin a fair chance of making their way in the
world. He restored the College of Crediton, and built one at Glaseney.
Bronscombe may be credited with giving the first impetus to the
reconstruction of the cathedral by his work in the Lady Chapel and the
chapels on either side of it, viz., that of St. Mary Magdalen on the
north, and St. Gabriel on the south, the latter being destined for his
own tomb. To his Dean and Chapter he appropriated the church of St.
Bruared in Cornwall, that the feast of his patron saint, Gabriel, might
be worthily maintained.
Peter Quivil, his successor in the see, was probably working with him,
as he was a canon of the cathedral before being raised to the bishopric.
He invented and designed the Decorated cathedral, and transformed the
transepts. He must be classed with Warelwast as the chief of the
building bishops. Admirably and sympathetically as his work was
continued by those who followed him, their claim on our recognition and
gratitude is less. His skill, too, seems to have been almost equalled by
his generosity, for out of gratitude the Chapter promised to maintain
his yearly obit. In the office of the mass, in the memento for the dead,
his name was ordered to be spoken _primum et praecipium._ He seems to
have given the Franciscans some cause for anger; it is suggested that
his Dominican confessor urged him to treat the followers of St. Francis
with severity. Anyhow, the aggrieved ones had their revenge, for the
bishop's death, which happened on the eve of St. Francis, "after
drinking of a certain sirrop," was popularly attributed to the direct
intervention of the saint himself. He is buried in the Lady Chapel,
which he had transformed and decorated with such tender care, and a slab
in the centre of the pavement, bearing the legend "Petra tegit Petrum
nihil officiat sibi tetrum," is dedicated to his memory.
It has been ascertained by Canon Hingeston-Randolph that Bishop Quivil
was the first to endow the office of chaunter with an adequate salary,
and that the first to enjoy the benefit of it was Walter de Lecchelade
or Lechlade, though he was by no means the first chaunter or precentor.
A dispute that long agitated antiquaries has thus been settled. For it
was contended by some that John the chaunter was the first to hold the
office, by others that Quivil founded the office and that the bishop's
name was really John Cauntor. But the explanation that the stipend was
only increased by Quivil, and that it existed before his day, was
entirely satisfactory, we may hope, to the supporters of the rival
theories. The above-mentioned Walter Lechlade was murdered "about two in
the morning" on his return from matins in the cathedral cloisters. The
murderers escaped through the south gate of the city, which was left
open. An extraordinary sensation was created, not in Exeter only but
throughout England. The bishop invited Edward I. and his queen to keep
their Christmas at the Palace. We are told "they were very industrious
in finding out the murtherers." At last Alfred Dupont, an ex-mayor and
porter of the south gate, was found guilty and executed accordingly.
Perhaps, had the office of chaunter not been endowed, Walter Lechlade
might have continued for many long years to chaunt in sonorous voice
"matins, vespers, obits, and the like." At any rate the story is worth
telling, being an interesting picture of manners in the middle ages. It
will be found given, with many interesting details, in an appendix by
Canon Hingeston-Randolph to his edition of the Register of Bishop Quivil
(p. 438).
Quivil's successor was Thomas De Bytton, Dean of Wells. Under his
guidance the work of transformation planned by his predecessor was
loyally continued, for he faithfully adhered to the original design.
Though Bytton appears to have been less active outside his diocese than
many of the Exeter bishops, his mode of life must have commended itself
to a large circle. A grant of forty days' indulgence was the reward of
all those who availed themselves of his spiritual ministrations, or
offered prayers for his prosperity during his life and after death.
Among the signatures appended to the document notifying this singular
privilege are those of numerous archbishops and bishops, among them
being those of the archbishops of Cosensa and Jerusalem, and Manfred,
Bishop of St. Mark's, Venice. "The seal of Manfred," Dr. Oliver says,
"is perfect; he stands robed, with a piece of embroidery on his alb. The
crozier is simply curved. His legend is S. MANFREDI. DEI. GRA. EPISCOP.
SCI. MARCHI." It was dated at Rome in the year 1300. Possibly Bytton's
great learning, by which he had risen to be Professor of Canon Law at
Oxford and Pope's Chaplain, was partly the reason of so notable a
compliment. But the noble work he was doing in the cathedral church of
his diocese, we may hope, had not a little to do with the honour. For to
him we owe the entire transformation of the choir with its aisles.
Bytton's labours were, indeed, very great. We hear of large quantities
of stone procured from Barley, and of sandstone from Salcombe and
Branscombe. He also put a good deal of stained glass into the windows;
so that in the eleventh year of his episcopate the following item is
recorded: "Master Walter le Verrouer for setting the glass of the upper
gable and of eight upper windows, and of six windows in the aisles of
the new work, in gross, £4 l0s." Bytton was succeeded, in 1308, by
Walter de Stapledon, the most famous of all the bishops of Exeter. A
younger son of Sir Richard Stapledon of Annery, his appointment was the
first of a succession of aristocratic nominations. He, too, had been a
professor of canon law at Oxford, was a chaplain to the Pope and
precentor of the cathedral church of Exeter. The feast given after his
enthronement was unusually splendid, the revenues for a whole year being
spent on the festivities. It seems as though, conscious of his great
talents, he determined to signalize his accession to the episcopal
office by some event of unusual magnificence. It must be remembered that
Exeter was at this time one of the largest and richest sees in England.
As Professor Freeman has pointed out, "The Bishop of Exeter, like the
Archbishop of York, was the spiritual head of a separate people."
Stapledon set about expediting the work of transforming the cathedral
into the Decorated style in vigorous fashion. The Fabric Rolls record
that he himself gave the (then) enormous sum of £1,800 towards defraying
the cost. His generosity encouraged others to subscribe liberally
towards the building fund. One of his first duties was to complete the
choir, a payment being made to William Canon of £35 2s. 8d. for "marble
from Corfe for the columns." But the choir was really Bytton's, the new
bishop had only to give to it "a few final, though not unimportant,
touches." Still he found plenty of work to hand that might receive the
impress of his sole initiative. He designed and completed the triforium
arcade above the choir arches, and directed the colouring of the choir
vault, the total expenses for oil and colour being estimated at £1 9s.
7¾d. By these "final touches" the transformation of the choir into the
Decorated style was completed. But Stapledon determined to further
enrich his already beautiful church with accessories of surpassing
splendour. He erected a high altar of silver, also the beautiful
sedilia, and though there has been a good deal of dispute about the
matter, the more trustworthy authorities attribute to him the bishop's
throne of carved wood. At any rate, in 1312, there is a charge of £6
12s. 8½d. for "timber for the bishop's seat." The altar, unfortunately,
has disappeared, but it is reputed to have cost a sum equivalent to
£7,000 of our money. Canon Freeman thus describes it: "Above, as it
should seem (for the entries are very obscure), was a canopy of
considerable extent, wrought with bosses internally. The whole seems to
have been surmounted by a figure of our Lord." With Stapledon building
seems to have been a favourite recreation; for though he gave most
largely both of time and money to the cathedral work, he found
opportunity to build and endow Harts Hall, Stapledon Inn--now Exeter
College--Oxford, and the "very fair" Essex House in London. In 1320 he
was created Lord High Treasurer by Edward II., and later in the same
year received from his sovereign the power of holding pleas of "hue and
cry" in the lands, tenements, and fees of the bishopric in the county of
Cornwall. The neglected condition of many of the parish churches in his
diocese distressed him, and almost his last public appearance in the
west of England was at Lawhitton, where he spoke severely on this matter
to his Dean and Chapter, and bade them see to it that in future there
should be no good cause of complaint. In the autumn of 1324 he set out
for France, accompanying the young Prince Edward, who was about to do
homage to the French king for the duchies of Aquitaine and Poitou. But
his "irreproachable integrity" made him unpopular, and his life was
threatened. On his return to England he saw that a crisis was at hand,
and almost immediately after his arrival Queen Eleanor landed on the
coast of Suffolk. Edward II., in a brief moment of wisdom, assigned to
the faithful bishop the government of London and retreated to Bristol.
But it was too late to effect a reconciliation or prevent a catastrophe.
With a firm hand Stapledon endeavoured to restore order and quiet, and
promulgated a decree by which all rebels were excommunicated. But the
citizens, wisely perhaps, sided with the conquerors, and the bishop died
a martyr to duty. The story is well told in the French chronicles quoted
by Dr. Oliver. "The Bishop of Exeter, riding towards his inn or hotel,
in Eldeanes-lane for dinner, encountered the mob, and, hearing them
shout Traitor, he rode rapidly to St. Paul's for sanctuary, but was
unhorsed, taken to Cheapside, stripped and beheaded. About the hour of
vespers, the same day, October 15th, the choir of St. Paul's took up the
headless body of the prelate and conveyed it to St. Paul's, but, on
being informed that he died under sentence, the body was brought to St.
Clement's beyond the Temple, but was ejected; so that the naked corpse,
with a rag given by the charity of a woman, was laid on the spot called
'Le Lawles Cherche,' and without any grave, lay there with those of his
two esquires, without office of priest or clerk. His house was attacked,
the gates burned, quantities of jewels and plate plundered."
In another account of his death it is stated that his head was "fixed on
a long pole by way of trophy, that it might be to all beholders a
lasting memorial of his attempted crime." There was a personal reason
why the bishop was unpopular among the citizens, for "he procured that
the justices in eyre should sit in London; on which occasion, because
the citizens had committed various offences, they were heavily punished
by the loss of their liberties, by pecuniary mulcts, and by bodily
chastisment, as they deserved." But the queen caused his body to be
rescued from the "hepe of rubische," and it was removed to Exeter, where
it lies on the north side of the choir. He left behind him large sums of
money and plate, a valuable library and, unique item, ninety-one rings.
He was certainly one of the greatest prelates in English history, and
though he may have been, as his detractors asserted, "fumische and
without pite," he was revered in his diocese, and left an example of
courage and honesty to succeeding generations. His executors, animated
by a wish to do what he would have desired, distributed £210 8s. 8d. in
charities, and gave considerable sums to other worthy objects. And the
Abbot of Hartland caused the 15th of October to be solemnly observed,
out of gratitude for the late bishop's bounty, and decreed that on that
day "for all future times 'XIII. pauperes in aulâ abbatis, pro ipsius
anima, pascantur.'"
To follow so redoubtable a prelate as Stapledon must have been an
extremely difficult task. But Grandisson, who was appointed after
Berkeley's short episcopate ended, has sometimes been called the most
magnificent prelate who ever filled the see. He was nominated directly
by the pope, and consecrated by his holiness at Avignon. His chief glory
is that he allowed the splendour of the see in no wise to diminish, and
he kept up the Stapledon traditions of princely hospitality and
well-doing. His reputation of "grave, wise, and politick" seems to have
been fairly earned. As a descendant of the great ducal house of
Burgundy, he had lived much with princes and held the position of nuncio
"at the courts of all the mightiest princes of Christendom." His
election was carried out in direct opposition to the wishes of the
canons of Exeter, but a wise choice had been made, and by his long
episcopate of forty years he gained honour for himself and good fortune
for his people. He had to face many difficulties at first that might
well have appalled a weaker man. The tragic death of Stapledon had
terrified all men, the great work of that giant intellect remained
unfinished, and required some one of exceptional energy to complete it
fitly. Added to these difficulties, the episcopal manors had been
plundered and the accounts were terribly muddled. Grandisson, luckily,
was a man who looked upon difficulties as things to be overcome. He
applied to the members of his family for funds, and the negotiations are
to his family and subsequently to the diocese at large for funds. The
negotiations are interesting, for the borrower is the only person who
maintained his dignity unimpaired. With courteous pertinacity and a
fitting show of anger, he got the supplies he needed. With indomitable
energy he managed to arrange in perfect order the confused affairs of
his diocese. Turning eagerly to the task of completing the building of
his church, he transformed the six west bays of the nave, vaulting,
aisles, west window, and north cloister. In spiritual and temporal
affairs he was equally busy. Twice at least he was the host of royalty,
once the Black Prince visited his diocese with the captive king of
France. The same illustrious warrior, shortly before his death, again
enjoyed the bishop's hospitality.
In 1343 Grandisson was sent as ambassador to Rome, and the sound sense
he had shown at Exeter was equally apparent in the conduct of his
mission, so that it was written of him that "he did his message with
much wisdom and honour." Certainly, few bishops have had so exalted a
view of the dignity and importance of the episcopal office, and none
ever dared to fight more boldly for his imagined rights. When the
Archbishop Mepham determined to make a personal visitation, Grandisson's
anger was kindled. Gathering round him a body of armed retainers, he met
the archbishop at the north-west gate of the close. There might have
been a bloody conflict, for neither prelate was likely to give way.
Fortunately, sober counsels prevailed, and the quarrel was referred to
the pope. His holiness decided in Grandisson's favour, and "the dispute
did half break Mepham's heart, and the Pope, siding with the Bishop of
Exeter, did break the other half." So writes Fuller, and the quaint
sentence does not lack authority, for the archbishop died shortly after
the termination of the quarrel.
Grandisson remembered his cathedral in his will. He bequeathed to his
successors his crozier and mitre, and to the diocese 2,000 marks. At his
funeral, in accordance with his instructions, a hundred poor persons
were clothed and money was distributed among the prisoners and the sick.
He remembered, too, the needs of the poorer clergy and the hospitals,
while to Pope Urban and Edward III. he left splendid legacies. His
funeral, as his life, was simple and economical. For his magnificent
presents, his gorgeous works on the structure of his church, were made
possible by his own simple, almost parsimonious manner of living. He was
buried in the chapel of St. Radegunde, but the tomb was destroyed in
Elizabeth's time, and his ashes lie "no man knows where."
Brantyngham, the next bishop, completed the cloisters, the east window
and west front. But, as Canon Freeman has said, "the rest of the works
of this and the following century are little else than petty
restorations; of course in a later and inferior style, and generally to
the detriment of the building." But there is still much in the history
of the church and the see that deserves a passing notice. Under
Brantyngham, the old feud that Grandisson had finished so satisfactorily
to himself, began again. But the victory this time was with the
archbishop. At Topsham, a village not far from the city, the bishop's
servants attacked savagely the archbishop's mandatory. Full of zeal for
the honour, as they conceived it, of their own prelate, they made the
wretched creature eat the archbishop's writ and seal. But the meal of
parchment and wax did not by any means settle the dispute. The bishop's
cause, indeed, was irretrievably damaged, the king was furious, an
appeal to the pope was unsuccessful, and Brantyngham had to make full
submission to the offended primate. Henceforth the archbishop's right of
visitation was not opposed. Had another than Grandisson been bishop in
Mepham's day the dispute would never, probably, have arisen; for the
archbishop was undoubtedly only exercising his rights, such visitations
being according to canon, and of ancient usage.
The next bishop whose episcopate is important is Lacy, who glazed the
nave windows and raised the chapter house. He has, too, an unique claim
on our regard because of his saintly character. As yet no saint had made
the cathedral venerable, and the sentimental affection and profit which
saintly relics were wont to cause was still lacking. It is said that
Iscanus had contrived to get some relics of Becket for his cathedral,
but there was no local saint, and this want Lacy supplied. Yet the days
of his episcopacy were by no means absolutely calm. At the very moment
of his accession he involved himself in a dispute with the city
corporation as to the liberties of his cathedral. Nor was he, though
meek and holy, at all inclined to submit to any infringement of his
prerogatives, even when the transgressor happened to wear a crown.
Indeed, he most successfully protested against the conduct of Henry VI.,
who held a jail delivery in the bishop's hall. Two men were condemned to
death, but the bishop remonstrated so forcibly against this exercise of
temporal authority within the precincts of the sanctuary, that they were
released. As an author Lacy gained a considerable reputation. His "Liber
Pontificalis" is still preserved, his office in honour of Raphael the
Archangel was admired and used in many cathedrals and churches. When he
died miracles were performed at his tomb, and pilgrimages were
constantly made to it by the common people.
[Illustration: THE CHAPTER HOUSE (FROM BRITTON'S 'EXETER', 1826).]
From this time onward the architectural history of the cathedral becomes
less important. Its great periods may thus be summed up, 1107 to 1206
Warelwast and Marshall built the Norman church; 1257 to 1280 Bronscombe
and Quivil began the Decorated work; 1292 to 1308 Bytton and Stapledon
completed the eastern part; 1327 to 1369 Grandisson and Brantyngham
completed the nave, west front, and cloister. The fifth and last change
is the introduction of Perpendicular work, chiefly noticeable in the
chapter house, the west screen, and the great east window. The day of
the great builders was waning fast. The old faith that inspired them was
dwindling, the attraction of national concerns was too great for local
effort. Moreover, the desire to make intricately beautiful, right enough
in itself, had vitiated, as it was bound to do, the taste of architect
and builder. The old Norman cathedrals, however rugged, were imposing in
their stern and simple strength. The desire for decoration affected
various transformations, which at first left the building more beautiful
and not less strong. But gradually the simplicity and strength disappear
altogether. Luckily, as we shall see, the great church of St. Mary and
St. Peter has suffered less than most buildings that have undergone so
many changes. "As it is, the church of Exeter is a remarkable case of
one general design being carried out through more than a hundred years."
The church is Quivil's design, and the variations, though important, do
not seriously detract from it.
The events of the next five hundred years belong more to the history of
the see, and even of England, than to the church. In the election of
George Neville (1458) we notice the immense value put on noble birth.
Only one other reason can be alleged as weighing with those responsible
for the choice. And this reason is so ridiculous as to be almost
incredible. None the less it had, doubtless, a good deal to do with
Neville's election to the bishopric. He was not only a brother to the
great Earl of Warwick, but he early showed his intention of keeping up
the almost kingly traditions of his family. Here is an account of the
festivities that took place at Oxford after he had performed "his
exercises in the nave of St. Mary's Church, as the custom now is, and
before was, for nobleman's sons." "Such entertainment was given for two
days space that the memory of man being not now able to produce, I have
thought it worth my pains to remember. On the first day therefore were
600 messes of meat, and on the second 300 for the entertainment only of
scholars and certain of the Proceeders, relations and acquaintances." A
later Oxford historian asserts that Neville was elected chancellor the
very next year "by an appreciative university!" It is not at all
unlikely, therefore, that this display of hospitality had something to
do with his being chosen bishop, as a fitting successor to the office
once filled by Grandisson. For four years after his election he was
unable, owing to his youth, to be consecrated. But by one of those
ecclesiastical scandals, which seem not to have annoyed or astonished
his contemporaries, he was permitted to enjoy the temporalities of the
see. At the age of twenty-seven he was fully ordained bishop, and a few
years later was transferred to York. During the episcopate of his
successor, Bothe, the city was besieged by Perkin Warbeck. In 1495
Oliver King, who was elected in 1492, was translated to the see of Bath
and Wells, and to him is due the rebuilding of the abbey church of Bath
which was then ruinous.
From 1504 to 1519 Oldham, a Lancashire man, was bishop. He built the
Oldham and Speke chapels.
Veysey, who succeeded him, lived during the reign of Henry VIII. His
courtly manners made him popular. In addition to his rich ecclesiastical
office, he became Lord President of Wales and tutor to the Princess
Mary. He founded the town of Sutton Coleshill, now Sutton Coldfield, and
introduced there the making of kersies. On this enterprise he spent the
larger part of his fortune. At the accession of Edward VI. he was left
undisturbed, though suspected of favouring the old religion. But when a
rising in favour of the unreformed church disturbed the western
counties, he was accused of participation in the movement, and resigned
his charge. But he retained the temporalities, and on Mary's accession
was reinstated. But he was nearly 103 years old, and soon after died at
his town of Sutton Coleshill in 1555.
Miles Coverdale, the translator, with Tyndale, of the Bible, his
successor, was bishop for only two years. He was unpopular, although his
life was "most godly" and virtuous. But "the common people," says Hoker,
"whose bottles would receive no new wine, could not brook or digest him,
for no other cause but because he was a preacher of the Gospel, an enemy
to Papistry, and a married man." This dislike is easily accounted for.
Exeter was very far from London, the new ideas travelled slowly, and the
west was staunchly conservative. As with many reformers, too, his zeal
was spoilt by indiscretion; the sternness of the Puritan militated
against his success, and people preferred the old errors more becomingly
supported. His successor, Turberville, was a man quite after the heart
of the people, and he won praise from Protestant and Catholic alike.
He was succeeded by William Alleyn, and as a result of Veysey's
extravagance and Henry's greed it may be noticed that, by royal charter,
the number of canons was limited to nine.
In 1627 the see was held by Joseph Hall, a man of great distinction.
Though too conciliatory to care greatly for Laud's policy, he wrote a
justly famous "Defence of the Church of England and her doctrines."
After his translation to Norwich he underwent a good deal of
persecution, which he himself has recorded, and was for six months a
prisoner in the Tower. He is buried in Higham parish church, his
monument a skeleton holding "in the right hand a bond to death sealed
and signed, 'Debemus morti nos nostrique,' and in his left the same bond
torn and cancelled, with the endorsement 'Persolvit et quietus est.'"
Fuller says of the famous satirist that he was "not unhappy at
controversies, more happy at comments, very good in his characters,
better in his sermons, best of all in his meditations."
John Gauden, who became bishop in 1660, was far more fortunate, though
probably not more happy. He does not seem to have been over scrupulous,
and his desire for "a good manger" is unpleasantly obvious. But as the
author of the [Greek: EIKÔN BASILIKÊ] he is remembered. The authorship
has been disputed, but Charles II. certainly recognized his claim, and
Clarendon believed his assertions about it. He was clever enough to have
written even a better book, and there is no sufficient ground for
depriving him of this honour. It is certain that he owed his preferment
to his reputed merit as its author; though, oddly enough, he had taken
the covenant and preached a notorious sermon against "pictures, images,
and other superstitions of popery." But he publicly recanted, later, and
protested against the murder of the king, whose supposed last prayers
and meditations he was skilfully inventing. After being in Exeter two
years he was removed to Worcester. But he had looked to become bishop of
Winchester, and it is said that his death was hastened by
disappointment.
Seth Ward, who followed him, had, as dean of Exeter, distinguished
himself by his zeal and courage. He drove from the cathedral precincts
the buyers and sellers who had encroached thereon, and the partition
wall that divided the cathedral was taken down at his request. During
the Commonwealth "the building which was now formally called 'the late
cathedral church' was divided by a brick wall into two places of
worship, known as East Peter's and West Peter's." The east portion was
used by the Independents and the west by Presbyterians. Ward spent
£20,000 on redeeming the cathedral from the degradation it had suffered,
and bought an organ, "esteemed the best in England," which cost him
£2,000. He was translated to Salisbury in 1667. He was a man of
considerable ability and was a founder of the Royal Society.
Sparrow succeeded to the see in 1667. During his episcopate the Grand
Duke Cosmo visited Exeter and wondered at the worthy bishop, his wife,
and his nine children. The Duke of Tuscany was spoken of in the local
reports as the Duke of Tuskey, and he received from the corporation a
gift of "£20, or thereabouts." Sparrow, on his translation to Norwich,
was succeeded by Lamplugh, whose political acumen, at any rate, compels
admiration, if not respect. He fervently bade his flock rally round the
unfortunate James II, and then, posting to London, was rewarded by the
grateful king with the archbishopric of York. He then without any
compunction crowned William of Orange, King of England. But his
smartness availed little, "for within three years continuance of that
high throne of York he was summoned before an higher." Macaulay has
finely described the entrance of the prince into the cathedral. "As he
passed under the gorgeous screen, that renowned organ, scarcely
surpassed by any of those which are the boast of his native Holland,
gave out a peal of triumph. He mounted the bishop's seat, a stately
throne, rich with the carving of the fifteenth century. Burnet stood
below, and a crowd of warriors and nobles appeared on the right hand and
on the left. The singers robed in white sang the 'Te Deum.' When the
chaunt was over Burnet read the Prince's declaration; but as soon as the
first words were uttered, prebendaries and singers crowded in all haste
out of the choir. At the close, Burnet, in a loud voice, cried, 'God
save the Prince of Orange,' and many fervent voices answered 'Amen.'"
This is certainly the most remarkable, as it is also the last, of the
great historical events that have happened under the shadow of the
cathedral walls. There had been nothing to compare with it since the day
when Grandisson with his armed retainers met Mepham at the close gate
three hundred years before. Offspring Blackall is the last bishop we
need mention. He was a famous preacher, and worked hard for the comfort
and education of the indigent classes. To him Exeter owes her charity
schools.
Of the remaining bishops there is nothing of moment to record.
It has seemed wiser in this brief sketch to devote a paragraph to each
of those bishops who either architecturally or historically made their
episcopates events of national importance. The early bishops,
especially, busied themselves exceedingly in making beautiful their
principal church. It is by knowing something of their lives and times
that one can best appreciate their labours, and trace with intelligent
interest the causes of the splendid result to be studied minutely in the
remaining chapters of this book.
Moreover, all lovers of the great in art, all who love what is
beautiful, as all may with a little trouble, will not be sorry to have
even a passing acquaintance with those who have wrought so nobly. And
this short notice of the most famous of the bishops of Exeter proves
that they were for the most part chosen, not for their lineage, however
splendid, nor the favour they had gained as gracious courtiers, but for
their excellent lives, their plain living and high thinking, their taste
and learning, and for qualities which, if rarer now, were not common
even hundreds of years ago.
THE FABRIC OF THE CATHEDRAL.
THE EXTERIOR.
Before examining the various details, it may be well to recall the
following facts, which have already been referred to. First, the
cathedral was Saxon and remained so for nearly seventy years; then came
a Norman bishop who pulled down the existing building and replaced it by
the foundations and towers of a finer one. For ninety-nine years,
sometimes languishingly, sometimes vigorously, the work continued: so
that by the end of Marshall's episcopate (1206) Warelwast's noble
ambition was realized. Between this date and 1280 the church was
scarcely touched, but a chapter house was built by Bishop Bruere "to God
and the Church of St. Mary and St. Peter, a sufficient area to make a
Chapter House in our garden near the Tower of St. John." A third style,
Early English, was then introduced, to be followed by the almost
complete transformation of the entire building into the Decorated style.
Following on this we get some examples of Perpendicular work. Now, this
series of changes is noticeable in itself, and remarkable because it has
not affected the building in a way that might have been expected. The
first impression, indeed, that a view of the exterior gives one, is that
it is the result of one design, which is largely the case. It is only on
closer inspection that the remnants of the pre-decorated periods are
visible. "The Church," as Professor Freeman neatly puts it, "grew up
after one general pattern, but with a certain advance in detail as the
work went westward."
The second thing that strikes the visitor is that he has never seen a
church quite like it. "It forms a class by itself, and can be compared
with nothing save its own miniature at Ottery."
Putting aside the Saxon cathedral of Leofric it is possible to trace
four distinct styles in what has been wisely called "the noblest
monument of religious zeal of our forefathers in the west of England."
But in discovering these the feeling of wonder increases as the building
is found to be not a mere jumble but a complete whole. Though it is
possible to date the separate parts of the edifice, and recognize the
varying forms of workmanship, the architects laboured with so clear an
understanding of a beautiful result to be attained, that there is no
appearance of patchwork.