Many prefer to use a top-dressing of manure, regardless of conditions.
It is sure to bring more or less weeds. If you decide to use it,
however, get the thoroughly decomposed kind, as this means a minimum of
weeds. I do not want to create the impression that I am trying to
belittle the fertilizing value of manure. I believe in having a liberal
quantity of it incorporated with the soil when the lawn is made, and
I also believe that on such a soil Canada ashes and bone meal are very
much more suitable to keep it up to pitch than is a top-dressing of
manure.
[Illustration: One of the most difficult places in which to make a lawn
is under large shade trees. A combination of Kentucky Blue, Wood Meadow,
Various-leaved Fescue and Crested Dog's-tail is usually successful]
When manure is used for a top-dressing, do not get it on too thick, and
do not leave it too long on the grass in the spring. Nothing is to be
gained by either of these mistakes and much killing out is apt to
result.
There was a time, some years ago, when it was possible to buy sheep
manure that was worth something, but at the present time it is sold in
powder form, and invites a strong suspicion of adulteration and of
containing very much more than what is being paid for. If it is possible
for you to get good sheep manure, use that by all means. It is
efficient, cleanly, and produces very few weeds. It is best used at the
rate of about a ton to the acre.
Nitrate of soda is a very vigorous stimulant and produces quick results.
It is economical, requiring but small quantities to cover large areas.
Spread broadcast, about 175 lbs. to the acre; or, dissolved, 3 lbs. to
every 100 gals. of water. The dry application should be made always
before a rainstorm, otherwise much burning is apt to result to the
grass. For an occasional application it is all right to use this, but
for year-in-and-year-out fertilizer, it should be alternated with other
things.