So much has been written on the subject of lawn-making that about every
one interested in this work is fully competent, theoretically at least,
to carry through the process of land renovation and preparation, whether
it be for a small lawn or an area consisting of acres. The subject along
these lines has been exhaustively treated, but, strange to say, the
equally important subject of grass seed has been rather neglected. While
many amateurs can talk freely on the preparation of the land, they are
not so confident when treating of grass seed. It seems strange that this
is the case when so much depends on the suitability of the grass seed to
the land for the making of a successful lawn. The only reason, as far
as I can see, why people are not versed in this matter is that they have
been frightened by the botanical names of grasses, which seem wholly
unsuitable and too difficult of pronunciation for such commonplace
things. There is, however, just as much individuality in a plant
produced from a grass seed as in the choicest plant in a greenhouse. One
kind of grass seed will produce a low-growing plant while another grows
high; one wants a moist situation, another a dry one; some will
germinate in the shade, others will not, and so on through the list. If
a person knows each kind and its possibilities and requirements, he will
be able to choose the grass best suited for his wants, and by careful
trials arrange the mixtures with better success than the man in the
wholesale house who is obliged to guess at what is best for his
wants. Start out, then, in the primer class and tabulate some of the
best grasses used for lawns, and tag them with both their names, the
botanical and the common ones.
[Illustration: For sloping banks and terracing, a mixture of Kentucky
Blue, Rhode Island Bent, Creeping Bent, Sheep Fescue and White Clover,
in the proportions given, will probably answer]
Kentucky Blue Grass--_Poa pratensis_. Fine for lawns; grows slowly but
vigorously almost everywhere but on an acid soil.
Red Top--_Agrostis vulgaris_. Shows results more quickly than Blue
Grass; will thrive on a sandy soil; fine in combination with Blue Grass.
English Rye Grass--_Lolium perenne_. Grows quickly and shows almost
immediate results; good to combine with the slow-growing Blue Grass.
Various-leaved Fescue--_Festuca heterophylla_. Good for shady and moist
places.
Rhode Island Bent--_Agrostis canina_. Has a creeping habit; good for
putting-greens, sandy soils.
Creeping Bent--_Agrostis stolonifera_. Creeping habit; good for sandy
places and to bind banks or sloping places. Combined with Rhode Island
Bent for putting-greens.
Crested Dog's-tail--_Cynosurus cristatus_. Forms a low and compact
sward; good for slopes and shady places.
Wood Meadow Grass--_Poa nemoralis_. Good for shady places; is very
hardy.
Red Fescue--_Festuca rubra_. Thrives on poor soils and gravelly banks.
White Clover--_Trifolium repens_. Good for slopes; not to be recommended
for a lawn.
Sheep Fescue--_Festuca ovina_. Good for light, dry soils.
Now, with so much as a reference library, you will have sufficient
knowledge of the kinds of seeds to draw from to make combinations that
will fit any situation. I would further suggest that you go to a
wholesale house and get a sample of each of these seeds and examine
them. Get just a little of each in an envelope. Make a comparative
examination of the seeds, holding a little in the palm of the hand. As
you look at each seed repeat its name a few times and recall its
characteristics, and you will be surprised to find that on the second or
third trial every name will suggest itself the moment your eyes rest on
the seed. With a knowledge of the seeds you can then go to your dealer
and tell him what you want--not necessarily what he thinks you want. You
are then a better judge than he is.
It is worth while following the subject farther, for the results will
more than repay the trouble. Test the seeds. Make shallow boxes and
fill them with loam, and sow each kind of seed just as you would on a
lawn. Put a label at the head of the box and on it the time of sowing
the seed. Do this with as many as you can. Then watch and make notes of
the time it takes for germination. Note also the character of the
blades. Having finished this you will have a very liberal education in
the subject of grass.
Should you not care to do as suggested above, you will be dependent on
others to get what you most need. If you should go to a dozen people and
ask them to suggest a combination of seeds, they would all give them
readily to you, but no two proportions would be alike. If you should ask
for a single grass, the majority would suggest Kentucky Blue Grass. For
a single grass there is nothing better suited for all conditions. There
is this objection to it, however: it is not a nervous man's grass. You
cannot plant it to-day and have a lawn next month. If you can afford to
wait, sow Kentucky Blue and your patience will be well rewarded. It
makes a permanent lawn.
To introduce the ready-made lawn, use a combination of Kentucky Blue,
Red Top, and English Rye. The Blue Grass is slow, but the Rye and Red
Top produce speedier results. The first month will see the newly seeded
space a carpet of green. In time the Rye passes, the Red Top continues
to cover, while the Blue Grass grows sturdier each day until it crowds
everything out by virtue of its own strength. Use 12 lbs. of Kentucky
Blue Grass, 5 lbs. of Red Top and 3 lbs. of English Rye Grass to the
bushel, and sow 3-1/2 to 4 bushels to the acre. This makes a reliable
combination. It is common to hear people asking for grass that will grow
in shady places, but it is always difficult to determine the degree of
shade. A place may be shaded and yet suitable for growing grass, or it
may be so shaded that no grass known could be made to germinate there.
In places where there is no heavy dripping and where the ground is not
absolutely dark, use the following:
Kentucky Blue Grass, Wood Meadow Grass, Various-leaved Fescue, and
Crested Dog's-tail. Use 35 per cent. of the first two and 15 per cent.
of the last two.
For conditions that require a quick-growing grass, and something that
will bind and make a holding upon slopes under difficult conditions, the
following is recommended: Kentucky Blue Grass, 30 per cent.; R. I. Bent,
30 per cent.; Creeping Bent, 25 per cent.; Sheep Fescue, 10 per
cent., and White Clover, 5 per cent. This is one of the places where
White Clover is an essential. Under these conditions it fulfils its
mission perfectly. While all the named kinds may not flourish, there
will be enough to make the work successful.
[Illustration: The turf on a putting-green or tennis court must be dense
and low, as well as tough. Rhode Island Bent and Creeping Bent in
combination are frequently used on a sandy soil to stunt the growth]
The turf on a putting-green must be dense and low, and tough enough to
stand a lot of rough usage. A combination of Rhode Island Bent and
Creeping Bent is about the best thing for this purpose. To check up,
just refer back to your schedule and see what it says regarding the
qualities of these grasses.
The soil on a putting-green should be of a sandy nature. This keeps the
grass stunted through lack of much food, and consequently better fits it
for its purpose.
Never buy grass seed by the bushel. Buy it by weight, or stipulate that
there shall be so many pounds to the bushel. It will cost you a high
price, but it will be far cheaper in the end than to buy something
inexpensive that has more than a third of sweepings and useless bulk.
You certainly lose nothing by buying the very best seed that your dealer
can offer you.
Do not be ashamed to ask for samples before buying, and also get samples
from a number of places and compare the different seeds. Spread them out
in your hand and see if they are clean and without chaff. A seed with a
large proportion of dust and chaff is not worth buying. It should be
your consideration to see whether you are getting what you pay for. If
you show evidences of knowing the proper seeds you will receive a most
respectful hearing from the tradesman. Do not balk at the price of
re-cleaned seed. It means that you are going to get something for your
money. It is worth much more than the seed sold in bulk that is not
re-cleaned.