They begin the homeward march from Ilala. Illness of all the
men. Deaths. Muanamazungu. The Luapula. The donkey killed by a
lion. A disaster at N'Kossu's. Native surgery. Approach
Chawende's town. Inhospitable reception. An encounter. They take
the town. Leave Chawende's. Reach Chiwaie's. Strike the old
road. Wire drawing. Arrive at Kumbakumba's. John Wainwright
disappears. Unsuccessful search. Reach Tanganyika. Leave the
Lake. Cross the Lambalamfipa range. Immense herds of game. News
of East-Coast Search Expedition. Confirmation of news. They
reach Baula. Avant-couriers sent forwards to Unyanyembé. Chumah
meets Lieutenant Cameron. Start for the coast. Sad death of Dr.
Dillon. Clever precautions. The body is effectually concealed.
Girl killed by a snake. Arrival on the coast. Concluding
remarks.
The homeward march was then begun. Throughout its length we shall
content ourselves with giving the approximate number of days occupied in
travelling and halting. Although the memories of both men are
excellent--standing the severest test when they are tried by the light
of Dr. Livingstone's journals, or "set on" at any passage of his
travels--they kept no precise record of the time spent at villages where
they were detained by sickness, and so the exactness of a diary can no
longer be sustained.
To return to the caravan. They found on this the first day's journey
that some other precautions were necessary to enable the bearers of the
mournful burden to keep to their task. Sending to Chitambo's village,
they brought thence the cask of tar which they had deposited with the
chief, and gave a thick coating to the canvas outside. This answered
all purposes; they left the remainder at the next village, with orders
to send it back to head-quarters, and then continued their course
through Ilala, led by their guides in the direction of the Luapula.
A moment's inspection of the map will explain the line of country to be
traversed. Susi and Chumah had travelled with Dr. Livingstone in the
neighbourhood of the north-west shores of Bangweolo in previous years.
The last fatal road from the north might be struck by a march in a due
N.E. direction, if they could but hold out so far without any serious
misfortune; but in order to do this they must first strike northwards so
as to reach the Luapula, and then crossing it at some part not
necessarily far from its exit from the Lake, they could at once lay
their course for the south end of Tanganyika.
There were, however, serious indications amongst them. First one and
then the other dropped out of the file, and by the time they reached a
town belonging to Chitambo's brother--and on the third day only since
they set out--half their number were _hors de combat_. It was impossible
to go on. A few hours more and all seemed affected. The symptoms were
intense pain in the limbs and face, great prostration, and, in the bad
cases, inability to move. The men attributed it to the continual wading
through water before the Doctor's death. They think that illness had
been waiting for some further slight provocation, and that the previous
days' tramp, which was almost entirely through plashy Bougas or swamps,
turned the scale against them.
Susi was suffering very much. The disease settled in one leg, and then
quickly shifted to the other. Songolo nearly died. Kaniki and Bahati,
two of the women, expired in a few days, and all looked at its worst. It
took them a good month to rally sufficiently to resume their journey.
Fortunately in this interval the rains entirely ceased, and the natives
day by day brought an abundance of food to the sick men. From them they
heard that the districts they were now in were notoriously unhealthy,
and that many an Arab had fallen out from the caravan march to leave his
bones in these wastes. One day five of the party made an excursion to
the westward, and on their return reported a large deep river flowing
into the Luapula on the left bank. Unfortunately no notice was taken of
its name, for it would be of considerable geographical interest.
At last they were ready to start again, and came to one of the border
villages in Ilala the same night, but the next day several fell ill for
the second time, Susi being quite unable to move.
Muanamazungu, at whose place these relapses occurred, was fully aware of
everything that had taken place at Chitambo's, and showed the men the
greatest kindness. Not a day passed without his bringing them some
present or other, but there was a great disinclination amongst the
people to listen to any details connected with Dr. Livingstone's death.
Some return for their kindness was made by Farijala shooting three
buffaloes near the town: meat and goodwill go together all over Africa,
and the liberal sportsman scores points at many a turn. A cow was
purchased here for some brass bracelets and calico, and on the twentieth
day all were sufficiently strong on their legs to push forwards.
The broad waters of the long-looked for Luapula soon hove in sight.
Putting themselves under a guide, they were conducted to the village of
Chisalamalama, who willingly offered them canoes for the passage across
the next day.[37]
As one listens to the report that the men give of this mighty river, he
instinctively bends his eyes on a dark burden laid in the canoe! How
ardently would he have scanned it whose body thus passes across these
waters, and whose spirit, in its last hours' sojourn in this world,
wandered in thought and imagination to its stream!
It would seem that the Luapula at this point is double the width of the
Zambesi at Shupanga. This gives a breadth of fully four miles. A man
could not be seen on the opposite bank: trees looked small: a gun could
be heard, but no shouting would ever reach a person across the
river--such is the description given by men who were well able to
compare the Luapula with the Zambesi. Taking to the canoes, they were
able to use the "m'phondo," or punting pole, for a distance through
reeds, then came clear deep water for some four hundred yards, again a
broad reedy expanse, followed by another deep part, succeeded in turn by
another current not so broad as those previously paddled across, and
then, as on the starting side, gradually shoaling water, abounding in
reeds. Two islands lay just above the crossing-place. Using pole and
paddle alternately, the passage took them fully two hours across this
enormous torrent, which carries off the waters of Bangweolo towards the
north.
A sad mishap befell the donkey the first night of camping beyond the
Luapula, and this faithful and sorely-tried servant was doomed to end
his career at this spot!
According to custom, a special stable was built for him close to the
men. In the middle of the night a great disturbance, coupled with the
shouting of Amoda, aroused the camp. The men rushed out and found the
stable broken down and the donkey gone. Snatching, some logs, they set
fire to the grass, as it was pitch dark, and by the light saw a lion
close to the body of the poor animal, which was quite dead. Those who
had caught up their guns on the first alarm fired a volley, and the
lion made off. It was evident that the donkey had been seized by the
nose, and instantly killed. At daylight the spoor showed that the guns
had taken effect. The lion's blood lay in a broad track (for he was
apparently injured in the back, and could only drag himself along); but
the footprints of a second lion were too plain to make it advisable to
track him far in the thick cover he had reached, and so the search was
abandoned. The body of the donkey was left behind, but two canoes
remained near the village, and it is most probable that it went to make
a feast at Chisalamalama's.
[Illustration: An old Servant destroyed.]
Travelling through incessant swamp and water, they were fain to make
their next stopping-place in a spot where an enormous ant-hill spread
itself out,--a small island in the waters. A fire was lit, and by
employing hoes, most of them dug something like a form to sleep in on
the hard earth.
Thankful to leave such a place, their guide led them next day to the
village of Kawinga, whom they describe as a tall man, of singularly
light colour, and the owner of a gun, a unique weapon in these parts,
but one already made useless by wear and tear. The next village,
N'kossu's, was much more important. The people, called Kawendé, formerly
owned plenty of cattle, but now they are reduced: the Banyamwesi have
put them under the harrow, and but few herds remain. We may call
attention to the somewhat singular fact, that the hump quite disappears
in the Lake breed; the cows would pass for respectable shorthorns.[38]
A present was made to the caravan of a cow; but it seems that the rule,
"first catch your hare," is in full force in N'kossu's pastures. The
animals are exceedingly wild, and a hunt has to be set on foot whenever
beef is wanted; it was so in this case. Saféné and Muanyaséré with their
guns essayed to settle the difficulty. The latter, an old hunter as we
have seen, was not likely to do much harm; but Saféné, firing wildly at
the cow, hit one of the villagers, and smashed the bone of the poor
fellow's thigh. Although it was clearly an accident, such things do not
readily settle themselves down on this assumption in Africa. The chief,
however, behaved very well. He told them a fine would have to be paid on
the return of the wounded man's father, and it had better be handed to
him, for by law the blame would fall on him, as the entertainer of the
man who had brought about the injury. He admitted that he had ordered
all his people to stand clear of the spot where the disaster occurred,
but he supposed that in this instance his orders had not been heard.
They had not sufficient goods in any case to respond to the demand; the
process adopted to set the broken limb is a sample of native surgery,
which must not be passed over.
[Illustration: Kawendé Surgery.]
First of all a hole was dug, say two feet deep and four in length, in
such a manner that the patient could sit in it with his legs out before
him. A large leaf was then bound round the fractured thigh, and earth
thrown in, so that the patient was buried up to the chest. The next act
was to cover the earth which lay over the man's legs with a thick layer
of mud; then plenty of sticks and grass were collected, and a fire lit
on the top directly over the fracture. To prevent the smoke smothering
the sufferer, they held a tall mat as a screen before his face, and the
operation went on. After some time the heat reached the limbs
underground. Bellowing with fear and covered with perspiration, the man
implored them to let him out. The authorities concluding that he had
been under treatment a sufficient time, quickly burrowed down and lifted
him from the hole. He was now held perfectly fast, whilst two strong men
stretched the wounded limb with all their might! Splints, duly prepared
were afterwards bound round it, and we must hope that in due time
benefit accrued, but as the ball had passed through the limb, we must
have our doubts on the subject. The villagers told Chuma that after the
Wanyamwesi engagements they constantly treated bad gunshot-wounds in
this way with perfect success.
Leaving N'kossu's, they rested one night at another village belonging to
him, and then made for the territory of the Wa Ussi. Here they met with
a surly welcome, and were told they must pass on. No doubt the
intelligence that they were carrying their master's body had a great
deal to do with it, for the news seemed to spread with the greatest
rapidity in all directions. Three times they camped in the forest, and
for a wonder began to find some dry ground. The path lay in the direct
line of Chawendé's town, parallel to the north shore of the Lake, and at
no great distance from it.
Some time previously a solitary Unyamwesi had attached himself to the
party at Chitankooi's, where he had been left sick by a passing caravan
of traders: this man now assured them the country before them was well
known to him.
Approaching Chawendé's, according to native etiquette, Amoda and Sabouri
went on in front to inform the chief, and to ask leave to enter his
town. As they did not come back, Muanyaséré and Chuma set off after
them to ascertain the reason of the delay. No better success seemed to
attend this second venture, so shouldering their burdens, all went
forward in the track of the four messengers.
In the mean time, Chuma and Muanyaséré met Amoda and Sabouri coming back
towards them with five men. They reported that they had entered the
town, but found it a very large stockaded place; moreover, two other
villages of equal size were close to it. Much pombe drinking was going
on. On approaching the chief, Amoda had rested his gun against the
principal hut innocently enough. Chawendé's son, drunk and quarrelsome,
made this a cause of offence, and swaggering up, he insolently asked
them how they dared to do such a thing. Chawendé interfered, and for the
moment prevented further disagreeables; in fact, he himself seems to
have been inclined to grant the favour which was asked: however, there
was danger brewing, and the men retired.
When the main body met them returning, tired with their fruitless
errand, a consultation took place. Wood there was none. To scatter about
and find materials with which to build shelter for the night, would only
offer a great temptation to these drunken excited people to plunder the
baggage. It was resolved to make for the town.
When they reached the gate of the stockade they were flatly refused
admittance, those inside telling them to go down to the river and camp
on the bank. They replied that this was impossible: that they were
tired, it was very late, and nothing could be found there to give them
shelter. Meeting with no different answer, Saféné said, "Why stand
talking to them? let us get in somehow or other;" and, suiting the
action to the word, they pushed the men back who stood in the gateway.
Saféné got through, and Muanyaséré climbed over the top of the stockade,
followed by Chuma, who instantly opened the gate wide and let his
companions through. Hostilities might still have been averted had
better counsel prevailed.
The men began to look about for huts in which to deposit their things,
when the same drunken fellow drew a bow and fired at Muanyaséré. The man
called out to the others to seize him, which was done in an instant. A
loud cry now burst forth that the chief's son was in danger, and one of
the people, hurling a spear, wounded Sabouri slightly in the thigh: this
was the signal for a general scrimmage.
Chawendé's men fled from the town; the drums beat the assembly in all
directions, and an immense number flocked to the spot from the two
neighbouring villages, armed with their bows, arrows, and spears. An
assault instantly began from the outside. N'chisé was shot with an arrow
in the shoulder through the palisade, and N'taru in the finger. Things
were becoming desperate. Putting the body of Dr. Livingstone and all
their goods and chattels in one hut, they charged out of the town, and
fired on the assailants, killing two and wounding several others.
Fearing that they would only gather together in the other remaining
villages and renew the attack at night, the men carried these quickly
one by one and subsequently burnt six others which were built on the
same side of the river, then crossing over, they fired on the canoes
which were speeding towards the deep water of Bangweolo, through the
channel of the Lopupussi, with disastrous results to the fugitive
people.
Returning to the town, all was made safe for the night. By the fortunes
of war, sheep, goats, fowls, and an immense quantity of food fell into
their hands; and they remained for a week to recruit. Once or twice they
found men approaching at night to throw fire on the roofs of the huts
from outside, but with this exception they were not interfered with. On
the last day but one a man approached and called to them at the top of
his voice not to set fire to the chief's town (it was his that they
occupied); for the bad son had brought all this upon them; he added that
the old man had been overruled, and they were sorry enough for his bad
conduct.
Listening to the account given of this occurrence, one cannot but lament
the loss of life and the whole circumstances of the fight. Whilst on the
one hand we may imagine that the loss of a cool, conciliatory, brave
leader was here felt in a grave degree, we must also see that it was
known far and wide that this very loss was now a great weakness to his
followers. There is no surer sign of mischief in Africa than these
trumpery charges of bewitching houses by placing things on them: some
such over-strained accusation is generally set in the front rank when
other difficulties are to come: drunkenness is pretty much the same
thing in all parts of the world, and gathers misery around it as easily
in an African village as in an English city. Had the cortége submitted
to extortion and insult, they felt that their night by the river would
have been a precarious one--even if they had been in a humour to sleep
in a swamp when a town was at hand. These things gave occasion to them
to resort to force. The desperate nature of their whole enterprise in
starting for Zanzibar perhaps had accumulated its own stock of
determination, and now it found vent under evil provocation. If there is
room for any other feeling than regret, it lies in the fact that, on
mature consideration and in sober moments, the people who suffered, cast
the real blame on the right shoulders.
For the next three days after leaving Chawendé's they were still in the
same inundated fringe of Bouga, which surrounds the Lake, and on each
occasion had to camp at nightfall wherever a resting-place could be
found in the jungle, reaching Chama's village on the fourth day. A delay
of forty-eight hours was necessary, as Susi's wife fell ill; and for
the next few marches she was carried in a kitanda. They met an Unyamwesi
man here, who had come from Kumbakumba's town in the Wa Ussi district.
He related to them how on two occasions the Wanyamwesi had tried to
carry Chawendé's town by assault, but had been repulsed both times. It
would seem that, with the strong footing these invaders have in the
country, armed as they are besides with the much-dreaded guns, it can
only be a matter of time before the whole rule, such as it is, passes
into the hands of the new-comers.
The next night was spent in the open, before coming to the scattered
huts of Ngumbu's, where a motley group of stragglers, for the most part
Wabisa, were busy felling the trees and clearing the land for
cultivation. However, the little community gave them a welcome, in spite
of the widespread report of the fighting at Chawendé's, and dancing and
drumming were kept up till morning.
One more night was passed in the plain, and they reached a tributary of
the Lopupussi River, called the M'Pamba; it is a considerable stream,
and takes one up to the chest in crossing. They now drew near to
Chiwaie's town, which they describe as a very strong place, fortified
with a stockade and ditch. Shortly before reaching it, some villagers
tried to pick a quarrel with them for carrying flags. It was their
invariable custom to make the drummer-boy, Majwara, march at their head,
whilst the Union Jack and the red colours of Zanzibar were carried in a
foremost place in the line. Fortunately a chief of some importance came
up and stopped the discussion, or there might have been more mischief,
for the men were in no temper to lower their flag, knowing their own
strength pretty well by this time. Making their settlement close to
Chiwaie's, they met with much kindness, and were visited by crowds of
the inhabitants.
Three days' journey brought them to Chiwaie's uncle's village; sleeping
two nights in the jungle they made Chungu's, and in another day's march
found themselves, to their great delight, at Kapesha's. They knew their
road from this point, for on the southern route with Dr. Livingstone
they had stopped here, and could therefore take up the path that leads
to Tanganyika. Hitherto their course had been easterly, with a little
northing, but now they turned their backs to the Lake, which they had
held on the right-hand since crossing the Luapula, and struck almost
north.
From Kapesha's to Lake Bangweolo is a three days' march as the crow
flies, for a man carrying a burden. They saw a large quantity of iron
and copper wire being made here by a party of Wanyamwesi. The process is
as follows:--A heavy piece of iron, with a funnel-shaped hole in it, is
firmly fixed in the fork of a tree. A fine rod is then thrust into it,
and a line attached to the first few inches which can be coaxed through.
A number of men haul on this line, singing and dancing in tune, and thus
it is drawn through the first drill; it is subsequently passed through
others to render it still finer, and excellent wire is the result.
Leaving Kapesha they went through many of the villages already
enumerated in Dr. Livingstone's Diary. Chama's people came to see them
as they passed by him, and after some mutterings and growlings Casongo
gave them leave to buy food at his town. Reaching Chama's head-quarters
they camped outside, and received a civil message, telling them to
convey his orders to the people on the banks of the Kalongwesi that the
travellers must be ferried safely across. They found great fear and
misery prevailing in the neighbourhood from the constant raids made by
Kumbakumba's men.
Leaving the Kalangwésé behind them they made for M'sama's son's town,
meeting four men on the way who were going from Kumbakumba to Chama to
beat up recruits for an attack on the Katanga people. The request was
sure to be met with alarm and refusal, but it served very well to act
the part taken by the wolf in the fable. A grievance would immediately
be made of it, and Chama "eaten up" in due course for daring to gainsay
the stronger man. Such is too frequently the course of native
oppression. At last Kumbakumba's town came in sight. Already the large
district of Itawa has tacitly allowed itself to be put under the harrow
by this ruffianly Zanzibar Arab. Black-mail is levied in all directions,
and the petty chiefs, although really under tribute to Nsama, are
sagacious enough to keep in with the powers that be. Kumbakumba showed
the men a storehouse full of elephants' tusks. A small detachment was
sent off to try and gain tidings of one of the Nassick boys, John, who
had mysteriously disappeared a day or two previously on the march. At
the time no great apprehensions were felt, but as he did not turn up the
grass was set on fire in order that he might see the smoke if he had
wandered, and guns were fired. Some think he purposely went off rather
than carry a load any further; whilst others fear he may have been
killed. Certain it is that after a five days' search in all directions
no tidings could be gained either here or at Chama's, and nothing more
was heard of the poor fellow.
Numbers of slaves were collected here. On one occasion they saw five
gangs bound neck to neck by chains, and working in the gardens outside
the towns.
* * * * *
The talk was still about the break up of Casembe's power, for it will be
recollected that Kumbakumba and Pemba Motu had killed him a short time
before; but by far the most interesting news that reached them was that
a party of Englishmen, headed by Dr. Livingstone's son, on their way to
relieve his father, had been seen at Bagamoio some months previously.
The chief showed them every kindness during their five days' rest, and
was most anxious that no mishap should by any chance occur to their
principal charge. He warned them to beware of hyænas, at night more
especially, as the quarter in which they had camped had no stockade
round it as yet.
Marching was now much easier, and the men quickly found they had crossed
the watershed. The Lovu ran in front of them on its way to Tanganyika.
The Kalongwesé, we have seen, flows to Lake Moero in the opposite
direction. More to their purpose it was perhaps to find the terror of
Kumbakumba dying away as they travelled in a north-easterly direction,
and came amongst the Mwambi. As yet no invasion had taken place. A young
chief, Chungu, did all he could for them, for when the Doctor explored
these regions before, Chungu had been much impressed with him: and now,
throwing off all the native superstition, he looked on the arrival of
the dead body as a cause of real sorrow.
Asoumani had some luck in hunting, and a fine buffalo was killed near
the town. According to native game laws (which in some respects are
exceedingly strict in Africa), Chungu had a right to a fore leg--had it
been an elephant the tusk next the ground would have been his, past all
doubt--in this instance, however, the men sent in a plea that theirs was
no ordinary case, and that hunger had laws of its own; they begged to be
allowed to keep the whole carcase, and Chungu not only listened to their
story, but willingly waived his claim to the chief's share.
It is to be hoped that these sons of Tafuna, the head and father of the
Amambwi a lungu, may hold their own. They seem a superior race, and this
man is described as a worthy leader. His brothers Kasonso, Chitimbwa,
Sombé, and their sister Mombo, are all notorious for their reverence for
Tafuna. In their villages an abundance of coloured homespun cloth speaks
for their industry; whilst from the numbers of dogs and elephant-spears
no further testimony is needed to show that the character they bear as
great hunters is well deserved.
The steep descent to the Lake now lay before them, and they came to
Kasakalawé's. Here it was that the Doctor had passed weary months of
illness on his first approach to Tanganyika in previous years. The
village contained but few of its old inhabitants, but those few received
them hospitably enough and mourned the loss of him who had been so well
appreciated when alive. So they journeyed on day by day till the
southern end of the Lake was rounded.
The previous experience of the difficult route along the heights
bordering on Tanganyika made them determine to give the Lake a wide
berth this time, and for this purpose they held well to the eastward,
passing a number of small deserted villages, in one of which they camped
nearly every night. It was necessary to go through the Fipa country, but
they learnt from one man and another that the chief, Kafoofi, was very
anxious that the body should not be brought near to his town--indeed, a
guide was purposely thrown in their way who led them past it by a
considerable détour. Kafoofi stands well with the coast Arabs. One,
Ngombesassi by name, was at the time living with him, accompanied by his
retinue of slaves. He had collected a very large quantity of ivory
further in the interior, but dared not approach nearer at present to
Unyanyembé with it to risk the chance of meeting one of Mirambo's
hordes.
This road across the plain seems incomparably the best, No difficulty
whatever was experienced, and one cannot but lament the toil and
weariness which Dr. Livingstone endured whilst holding a course close to
Tanganyika, although one must bear in mind that by no other means at the
time could he complete his survey of this great inland sea, or acquaint
us with its harbours, its bays, and the rivers which find their way
into it on the east; these are details which will prove of value when
small vessels come to navigate it in the future.
The chief feature after leaving this point was a three days' march over
Lambalamfipa, an abrupt mountain range, which crosses the country east
and west, and attains, it would seem, an altitude of some 4000 feet.
Looking down on the plain from its highest passes a vast lake appears to
stretch away in front towards the north, but on descending this resolves
itself into a glittering plain, for the most part covered with saline
incrustations. The path lay directly across this. The difficulties they
anticipated had no real existence, for small villages were found, and
water was not scarce, although brackish. The first demand for toll was
made near here, but the headman allowed them to pass for fourteen
strings of beads. Susi says that this plain literally swarms with herds
of game of all kinds: giraffe and zebra were particularly abundant, and
lions revelled in such good quarters. The settlements they came to
belonged chiefly to elephant hunters. Farijala and Muanyaséré did well
with the buffalo, and plenty of beef came into camp.
They gained some particulars concerning a salt-water lake on their
right, at no very considerable distance. It was reported to them to be
smaller than Tanganyika, and goes by the name Bahari ya Muarooli--the
sea of Muarooli--for such is the name of the paramount chief who lives
on its shore, and if we mistake not the very Meréré, or his successor,
about whom Dr. Livingstone from time to time showed such interest. They
now approached the Likwa River, which flows to this inland sea: they
describe it as a stream running breast high, with brackish water; little
satisfaction was got by drinking from it.
Just as they came to the Likwa, a long string of men was seen on the
opposite side filing down to the water, and being uncertain of their
intentions, precautions were quickly taken to ensure the safety of the
baggage. Dividing themselves into three parties, the first detachment
went across to meet the strangers, carrying the Arab flag in front.
Chuma headed another band at a little distance in the rear of these,
whilst Susi and a few more crouched in the jungle, with the body
concealed in a roughly-made hut. Their fears, however, were needless: it
turned out to be a caravan bound for Fipa to hunt elephants and buy
ivory and slaves. The new arrivals told them that they had come straight
through Unyanyembé from Bagamoio, on the coast, and that the Doctor's
death had already been reported there by natives of Fipa.
As we notice with what rapidity the evil tidings spread (for the men
found that it had preceded them in all directions), one of the great
anxieties connected with African travel and exploration seems to be
rather increased than diminished. It shows us that it is never wise to
turn an entirely deaf ear when the report of a disaster comes to hand,
because in this instance the main facts were conveyed across country,
striking the great arterial caravan route at Unyanyembé, and getting at
once into a channel that would ensure the intelligence reaching
Zanzibar. On the other hand, false reports never lag on their
journey:--how often has Livingstone been killed in former years! Nor is
one's perplexity lessened by past experience, for we find the oldest and
most sagacious travellers when consulted are, as a rule, no more to be
depended on than the merest tyro in guessing.
With no small satisfaction, the men learnt from the outward-bound
caravan that the previous story was a true one, and they were assured
that Dr. Livingstone's son with two Englishmen and a quantity of goods
had already reached Unyanyembé.
The country here showed all the appearance of a salt-pan: indeed a
quantity of very good salt was collected by one of the men, who thought
he could turn an honest bunch of beads with it at Unyanyembé.
Petty tolls were levied on them. Kampama's deputy required four dotis,
and an additional tax of six was paid to the chief of the Kanongo when
his town was reached.
The Lungwa River bowls away here towards Tanganyika. It is a quick
tumbling stream, leaping amongst the rocks and boulders, and in its
deeper pools it affords cool delight to schools of hippopotami. The men,
who had hardly tasted good water since crossing Lambalamfipa, are loud
in its praise. Muanyasere improved relations with the people at the next
town by opportunely killing another buffalo, and all took a three days'
rest. Yet another caravan met them, bound likewise for the interior, and
adding further particulars about the Englishmen at Unyanyembé. This
quickened the pace till they found at one stage they were melting two
days of the previous outward journey into one.
Arriving at Baula, Jacob Wainwright, the scribe of the party, was
commissioned to write an account of the distressing circumstances of the
Doctor's death, and Chuma, taking three men with him, pressed on to
deliver it to the English party in person. The rest of the cortége
followed them through the jungle to Chilunda's village. On the outskirts
they came across a number of Wagogo hunting elephants with dogs and
spears, but although they were well treated by them, and received
presents of honey and food, they thought it better to keep these men in
ignorance of the fact that they were in charge of the dead body of their
master.
The Manyara River was crossed on its way to Tanganyika before they got
to Chikooloo, Leaving this village behind them, they advanced to the
Ugunda district, now ruled by Kalimangombi, the son of Mbéréké, the
former chief, and so on to Kasekéra, which, it will be remembered, is
not far from Unyanyembé.
_20th October, 1873._--We will here run on ahead with Chuma on his way
to communicate with the new arrivals. He reached the Arab settlement
without let or hindrance. Lieut. Cameron was quickly put in possession
of the main facts of Dr. Livingstone's death by reading Jacob's letter,
and Chuma was questioned concerning it in the presence of Dr. Dillon and
Lieut. Murphy. It was a disappointment to find that the reported arrival
of Mr. Oswell Livingstone was entirely erroneous; but Lieut. Cameron
showed the wayworn men every kindness. Chuma rested one day before
setting out to relieve his comrades to whom he had arranged to make his
way as soon as possible. Lieut. Cameron expressed a fear that it would
not be safe for him to carry the cloth he was willing to furnish them
with if he had not a stronger convoy, as he himself had suffered too
sorely from terrified bearers on his way thither; but the young fellows
were pretty well acquainted with native marauders by this time, and set
off without apprehension.
And now the greater part of their task is over. The weather-beaten
company wind their way into the old well-known settlement of Kwihara. A
host of Arabs and their attendant slaves meet them as they sorrowfully
take their charge to the same Tembé in which the "weary waiting" was
endured before, and then they submit to the systematic questioning which
the native traveller is so well able to sustain.
News in abundance was offered in return. The porters of the Livingstone
East-Coast Aid Expedition had plenty to relate to the porters sent by
Mr. Stanley. Mirambo's war dragged on its length, and matters had
changed very little since they were there before, either for better or
for worse. They found the English officers extremely short of goods; but
Lieut. Cameron, no doubt with the object of his Expedition full in view,
very properly felt it a first duty to relieve the wants of the party
that had performed this Herculean feat of bringing the body of the
traveller he had been sent to relieve, together with every article
belonging to him at the time of his death, as far as this main road to
the coast.
In talking to the men about their intentions, Lieut. Cameron had serious
doubts whether the risk of taking the body of Dr. Livingstone through
the Ugogo country ought to be run. It very naturally occurred to him
that Dr. Livingstone might have felt a wish during life to be buried in
the same land in which the remains of his wife lay, for it will be
remembered that the grave of Mrs. Livingstone is at Shupanga, on the
Zambesi. All this was put before the men, but they steadily adhered to
their first conviction--that it was right at all risks to attempt to
bear their master home, and therefore they were no longer urged to bury
him at Kwihara.
To the new comers it was of great interest to examine the boxes which
the men had conveyed from Bangweolo. As we have seen, they had carefully
packed up everything at Chitambo's--books, instruments, clothes, and all
which would bear special interest in time to come from having been
associated with Livingstone in his last hours.
It cannot be conceded for a moment that these poor fellows would have
been right in forbidding this examination, when we consider the relative
position in which natives and English officers must always stand to each
other; but it is a source of regret to relate that the chief part of
Livingstone's instruments were taken out of the packages and
appropriated for future purposes. The instruments with which all his
observations had been made throughout a series of discoveries extending
over seven years--aneroid barometers, compasses, thermometers, the
sextant and other things, have gone on a new series of travels, to incur
innumerable risks of loss, whilst one only of his thermometers comes to
hand.
We could well have wished these instruments safe in England with the
small remnant of Livingstone's personal property, which was allowed to
be shipped from Zanzibar.
The Doctor had deposited four bales of cloth as a reserve stock with the
Arabs, and these were immediately forthcoming for the march down.
The termination here of the ill-fated Expedition need not be commented
upon. One can only trust that Lieut. Cameron may be at liberty to pursue
his separate investigations in the interior under more favourable
auspices. The men seemed to anticipate his success, for he is generous
and brave in the presence of the natives, and likely to win his way
where others undoubtedly would have failed.
Ill-health had stuck persistently to the party, and all the officers
were suffering from the various forms of fever. Lieut. Cameron gave the
men to understand that it was agreed Lieut. Murphy should return to
Zanzibar, and asked if they could attach his party to their march; if
so, the men who acted as carriers should receive 6 dollars a man for
their services. This was agreed to. Susi had arranged that they should
avoid the main path of the Wagogo; inasmuch, as if difficulty was to be
encountered anywhere, it would arise amongst these lawless pugnacious
people.
By making a ten days' détour at "Jua Singa," and travelling by a path
well known to one of their party through the jungle of Poli ya vengi,
they hoped to keep out of harm's way, and to be able to make the cloth
hold out with which they were supplied. At length the start was
effected, and Dr. Dillon likewise quitted the Expedition to return to
the coast. It was necessary to stop after the first day's march, for a
long halt; for one of the women was unable to travel, they found, and
progress was delayed till she, the wife of Chowpéréh, could resume the
journey. There seem to have been some serious misunderstandings between
the leaders of Dr. Livingstone's party and Lieut. Murphy soon after
setting out, which turned mainly on the subject of beginning the day's
march. The former, trained in the old discipline of their master, laid
stress on the necessity of very early rising to avoid the heat of the
day, and perhaps pointed out more bluntly than pleasantly that if the
Englishmen wanted to improve their health, they had better do so too.
However, to a certain extent, this was avoided by the two companies
pleasing themselves.
Making an early start, the body was carried to Kasekéra, by Susi's party
where, from an evident disinclination to receive it into the village, an
encampment was made outside. A consultation now became necessary. There
was no disguising the fact that, if they kept along the main road,
intelligence would precede them concerning that in which they were
engaged, stirring up certain hostility and jeopardising the most
precious charge they had. A plan was quickly hit upon. Unobserved, the
men removed the corpse of the deceased explorer from the package in
which it had hitherto been conveyed, and buried the bark case in the hut
in the thicket around the village in which they had placed it. The
object now was to throw the villagers off their guard, by making believe
that they had relinquished the attempt to carry the body to Zanzibar.
They feigned that they had abandoned their task, having changed their
minds, and that it must be sent back to Unyanyembé to be buried there.
In the mean time the corpse of necessity had to be concealed in the
smallest space possible, if they were actually to convey it secretly for
the future; this was quickly managed.
Susi and Chuma went into the wood and stripped off a fresh length of
bark from an N'gombe tree; in this the remains, conveniently prepared as
to length, were placed, the whole being surrounded with calico in such
a manner as to appear like an ordinary travelling bale, which was then
deposited with the rest of the goods. They next proceeded to gather a
faggot of mapira-stalks, cutting them in lengths of six feet or so, and
swathing them round with cloth to imitate a dead body about to be
buried. This done, a paper, folded so as to represent a letter, was duly
placed in a cleft stick, according to the native letter-carrier's
custom, and six trustworthy men were told off ostensibly to go with the
corpse to Unyanyembé. With due solemnity the men set out; the villagers
were only too thankful to see it, and no one suspected the ruse. It was
near sundown. The bearers of the package held on their way, till fairly
beyond all chance of detection, and then began to dispose of their load.
The mapira-sticks were thrown one by one far away into the jungle, and
when all were disposed of, the wrappings were cunningly got rid of in
the same way. Going further on, first one man, and then another, sprung
clear from the path into the long grass, to leave no trace of footsteps,
and the whole party returned by different ways to their companions, who
had been anxiously awaiting them during the night. No one could detect
the real nature of the ordinary-looking bale which, henceforth, was
guarded with no relaxed vigilance, and eventually disclosed the bark
coffin and wrappings, containing Dr. Livingstone's body, on the arrival
at Bagamoio. And now, devoid of fear, the people of Kasekéra asked them
all to come and take up their quarters in the town; a privilege which
was denied them so long as it was known that they had the remains of the
dead with them.
But a dreadful event was about to recall to their minds how many fall
victims to African disease!
Dr. Dillon now came on to Kasekéra suffering much from dysentery--a few
hours more, and he shot himself in his tent by means of a loaded rifle.
Those who knew the brave and generous spirit in which this hard-working
volunteer set out with Lieut. Cameron, fully hoping to relieve Dr.
Livingstone, will feel that he ended his life by an act alien indeed to
his whole nature. The malaria imbibed during their stay at Unyanyembé
laid upon him the severest form of fever, accompanied by delirium, under
which he at length succumbed in one of its violent paroxysms. His
remains are interred at Kasekéra.
We must follow Susi's troop through a not altogether eventless journey
to the sea. Some days afterwards, as they wended their way through a
rocky place, a little girl in their train, named Losi, met her death in
a shocking way. It appears that the poor child was carrying a water-jar
on her head in the file of people, when an enormous snake dashed across
the path, deliberately struck her in the thigh, and made for a hole in
the jungle close at hand. This work of a moment was sufficient, for the
poor girl fell mortally wounded. She was carried forward, and all means
at hand were applied, but in less than ten minutes the last symptom
(foaming at the mouth) set in, and she ceased to breathe.
Here is a well-authenticated instance which goes far to prove the truth
of an assertion made to travellers in many parts of Africa. The natives
protest that one species of snake will deliberately chase and overtake
his victim with lightning speed, and so dreadfully dangerous is it, both
from the activity of its poison and its vicious propensities, that it is
perilous to approach its quarters. Most singular to relate, an Arab came
to some of the men after their arrival at Zanzibar and told them that he
had just come by the Unyanyembé road, and that, whilst passing the
identical spot where this disaster occurred, one of the men was attacked
by the same snake, with precisely the same results; in fact, when
looking for a place in which to bury him they saw the grave of Losi, and
the two lie side by side.
Natal colonists will probably recognise the Mamba in this snake; it is
much to be desired that specimens should be procured for purposes of
comparison. In Southern Africa so great is the dread it inspires that
the Kaffirs will break up a Kraal and forsake the place if a Mamba takes
up his quarters in the vicinity, and, from what we have seen above, with
no undue caution.
Susi, to whom this snake is known in the Shupanga tongue as "Bubu,"
describes it as about twelve feet long, dark in colour, of a dirty blue
under the belly, with red markings like the wattles of a cock on the
head. The Arabs go so far as to say that it is known to oppose the
passage of a caravan at times. Twisting its tail round a branch, it will
strike one man after another in the head with fatal certainty. Their
remedy is to fill a pot with boiling water, which is put on the head and
carried under the tree! The snake dashes his head into this and is
killed--the story is given for what it is worth.
It would seem that at Ujiji the natives, as in other places, cannot bear
to have snakes killed. The "Chatu," a species of python, is common, and,
from being highly favoured, becomes so tame as to enter houses at night.
A little meal is placed on the stool, which the uncanny visitor laps up,
and then takes its departure--the men significantly say they never saw
it with their own eyes. Another species utters a cry, much like the
crowing of a young cock; this is well authenticated. Yet another black
variety has a spine like a blackthorn at the end of the tail, and its
bite is extremely deadly.
At the same time it must be added that, considering the enormous number
of reptiles in Africa, it rarely occurs that anyone is bitten, and a few
months' residence suffices to dispel the dread which most travellers
feel at the outset.
_February, 1874._--No further incident occurred worthy of special
notice. At last the coast town of Bagamoio came in sight, and before
many hours were over, one of Her Majesty's cruisers conveyed the Acting
Consul, Captain Prideaux, from Zanzibar to the spot which the cortége
had reached. Arrangements were quickly made for transporting the remains
of Dr. Livingstone to the Island some thirty miles distant, and then it
became perhaps rather too painfully plain to the men that their task was
finished.
One word on a subject which will commend itself to most before we close
this long eventful history.
We saw what a train of Indian Sepoys, Johanna men, Nassick boys, and
Shupanga canoemen, accompanied Dr. Livingstone when he started from
Zanzibar in 1866 to enter upon his last discoveries: of all these, five
only could answer to the roll-call as they handed over the dead body of
their leader to his countrymen on the shore whither they had returned,
and this after eight years' desperate service.
Once more we repeat the names of these men. Susi and James Chuma have
been sufficiently prominent throughout--hardly so perhaps has Amoda,
their comrade ever since the Zambesi days of 1864: then we have Abram
and Mabruki, each with service to show from the time he left the Nassiok
College with the Doctor in 1865. Nor must we forget Ntoaéka and Halima,
the two native girls of whom we have heard such a good character: they
cast in their lot with the wanderers in Manyuema. It does seem strange
to hear the men say that no sooner did they arrive at their journey's
end than they were so far frowned out of notice, that not so much as a
passage to the Island was offered them when their burden was borne away.
We must hope that it is not too late--even for the sake of
consistency--to put it on record that _whoever_ assisted Livingstone,
whether white or black, has not been overlooked in England. Surely those
with whom he spent his last years must not pass away into Africa again
unrewarded, and lost to sight.
Yes, a very great deal is owing to these five men, and we say it
emphatically. If the nation has gratified a reasonable wish in learning
all that concerns the last days on earth of a truly noble countryman and
his wonderful enterprise, the means of doing so could never have been
placed at our disposal but for the ready willingness which made Susi and
Chuma determine, if possible, to render an account to some of those whom
they had known as their master's old companions. If the Geographer finds
before him new facts, new discoveries, new theories, as Livingstone
alone could record them, it is right and proper that he should feel the
part these men have played in furnishing him with such valuable matter.
For we repeat that nothing but such leadership and staunchness as that
which organized the march home from Ilala, and distinguished it
throughout, could have brought Livingstone's bones to our land or his
last notes and maps to the outer world. To none does the feat seem so
marvellous as to those who know Africa and the difficulties which must
have beset both the first and the last in the enterprise. Thus in his
death, not less than in his life, David Livingstone bore testimony to
that goodwill and kindliness which exists in the heart of the African.
FOOTNOTES:
[37] The men consider it five days' march "only carrying a gun" from
the Molilamo to the bank of the Luapula--this in rough reckoning, at
the rate of native travelling, would give a distance of say 120 to 150
miles.--ED.
[38] This comparison was got at from the remarks made by Susi and
Chuma at an agricultural show; they pointed out the resemblance borne
by the shorthorns and by the Alderney bulls to several breeds near
Lake Bemba.--ED.
THE END.