False guides. Very difficult travelling. Donkey dies of tsetse
bites. The Kasonso family. A hospitable chief. The River Lofu.
The nutmeg tree. Famine. Ill. Arrives at Chama's town. A
difficulty. An immense snake. Account of Casembe's death. The
flowers of the Babisa country. Reaches the River Lopoposi.
Arrives at Chituñkué's. Terrible marching. The Doctor is borne
through the flooded country.
_1st November, 1872._--We hear that an eruption of Babemba, on the
Baulungu, destroyed all the food. We tried to buy food here, but
everything is hidden in the mountains, so we have to wait to-day till
they fetch it. If in time, we shall make an afternoon's march. Raining
to-day. The Eiver Mulu from Chingolao gave us much trouble in crossing
from being filled with vegetation: it goes into Tanganyika. Our course
south and east.
_2nd November, 1872._--Deceived by a guide, who probably feared his
countrymen in front. Went round a stony cape, and then to a land-locked
harbour, three miles long by two broad. Here was a stockade, where our
guide absconded. They told us that if we continued our march we should
not get water for four hours, so we rested, having marched four and a
quarter hours.
_3rd November, 1872._--We marched this morning to a village where food
was reported. I had to punish two useless men for calling out, "Posho!
posho! posho!" (rations) as soon as I came near. One is a confirmed
bangé-smoker;[26]the blows were given slightly, but I promised that the
next should be severe. The people of Liemba village having a cow or two,
and some sheep and goats, eagerly advised us to go on to the next
village, as being just behind a hill, and well provisioned. Four very
rough hills were the penalty of our credulity, taking four hours of
incessant toil in these mountain fastnesses. They hide their food, and
the paths are the most difficult that can be found, in order to wear out
their enemies. To-day we got to the River Luazi, having marched five and
a half hours, and sighting Tanganyika near us twice.
_4th November, 1872._--All very tired. We tried to get food, but it is
very dear, and difficult to bargain for. Goods are probably brought from
Fipa. A rest will be beneficial to us.
_5th November, 1872._--We went up a high mountain, but found that one of
the cows could not climb up, so I sent back and ordered it to be
slaughtered, waiting on the top of the mountain whilst the people went
down for water.
_6th November, 1872._--Pass a deep narrow bay and climb a steep
mountain. Too much for the best donkey. After a few hours' climb we look
down on the Lake, with its many bays. A sleepy glare floats over it.
Further on we came on a ledge of rocks, and looked sheer down 500 feet
or 600 feet into its dark green waters. We saw three zebras and a young
python here, and fine flowers.
_7th November, 1872, Sunday._--Remained, but the headman forbade his
people to sell us food. We keep quiet except to invite him to a parley,
which he refuses, and makes loud lullilooing in defiance, as if he were
inclined to fighting. At last, seeing that we took no notice of him, he
sent us a present; I returned three times its value.
_8th November, 1872._--The large donkey is very ill, and unable to climb
the high mountain in our front. I left men to coax him on, and they did
it well. I then sent some to find a path out from the Lake mountains,
for they will kill us all; others were despatched to buy food, but the
Lake folks are poor except in fish.
Swifts in flocks were found on the Lake when we came to it, and there
are small migrations of swallows ever since. Though this is the very
hottest time of year, and all the plants are burnt off or quite dried,
the flowers persist in bursting out of the hot dry surface, generally
without leaves. A purple ginger, with two yellow patches inside, is very
lovely to behold, and it is alternated with one of a bright canary
yellow; many trees, too, put on their blossoms. The sun makes the soil
so hot that the radiation is as if it came from a furnace. It burns the
feet of the people, and knocks them up. Subcutaneous inflammation is
frequent in the legs, and makes some of my most hardy men useless. We
have been compelled to slowness very much against my will. I too was
ill, and became better only by marching on foot. Riding exposes one to
the bad influence of the sun, while by walking the perspiration modifies
beneficially the excessive heat. It is like the difference in effect of
cold if one is in activity or sitting, and falling asleep on a
stage-coach. I know ten hot fountains north of the Orange River; the
further north the more hot and numerous they become.
[Just here we find a note, which does not bear reference to anything
that occurred at this time. Men, in the midst of their hard earnest
toil, perceive great truths with a sharpness of outline and a depth of
conviction which is denied to the mere idle theorist: he says:--]
The spirit of Missions is the spirit of our Master: the very genius of
His religion. A diffusive philanthropy is Christianity itself. It
requires perpetual propagation to attest its genuineness.
_9th November, 1872._--We got very little food, and kill a calf to fill
our mouths a little. A path east seems to lead out from these mountains
of Tanganyika. We went on east this morning in highland open forest,
then descended by a long slope to a valley in which there is water. Many
Milenga gardens, but the people keep out of sight. The highlands are of
a purple colour from the new leaves coming out. The donkey began to eat
to my great joy. Men sent off to search for a village return
empty-handed, and we must halt. I am ill and losing much blood.
_10th November, 1872._--Out from the Lake mountains, and along high
ridges of sandstone and dolomite. Our guide volunteered to take the men
on to a place where food can be bought--a very acceptable offer. The
donkey is recovering; it was distinctly the effects of tsetse, for the
eyes and all the mouth and nostrils swelled. Another died at Kwihara
with every symptom of tsetse poison fully developed.
[The above remarks on the susceptibility of the donkey to the bite of
the tsetse fly are exceedingly important. Hitherto Dr. Livingstone had
always maintained, as the result of his own observations, that this
animal, at all events, could be taken through districts in which horses,
mules, dogs, and oxen would perish to a certainty. With the keen
perception and perseverance of one who was exploring Africa with a view
to open it up for Europeans, he laid great stress on these experiments,
and there is no doubt that the distinct result which he here arrived at
must have a very significant bearing on the question of travel and
transport.
Still passing through the same desolate country, we see that he makes a
note on the forsaken fields and the watch-towers in them. Cucumbers are
cultivated in large quantities by the natives of Inner Africa, and the
reader will no doubt call to mind the simile adopted by Isaiah some 2500
years ago, as he pictured the coming desolation of Zion, likening her to
a "lodge in a garden of cucumbers."[27]]
_11th November, 1872._--Over
gently undulating country, with many old gardens and watch-houses, some
of great height, we reached the River Kalambo, which I know as falling
into Tanganyika. A branch joins it at the village of Mosapasi; it is
deep, and has to be crossed by a bridge, whilst the Kalambo is shallow,
and say twenty yards wide, but it spreads out a good deal.
[Their journey of the _12th_ and _13th_ led them over low ranges of
sandstone and hæmatite, and past several strongly stockaded villages.
The weather was cloudy and showery--a relief, no doubt, after the
burning heat of the last few weeks. They struck the Halochéché River, a
rapid stream fifteen yards wide and thigh deep, on its way to the Lake,
and arrived at Zombé's town, which is built in such a manner that the
river runs through it, whilst a stiff palisade surrounds it. He says:--]
It was entirely surrounded by M'toka's camp, and a constant fight
maintained at the point where the line of stakes was weakened by the
river running through. He killed four of the enemy, and then Chitimbwa
and Kasonso coming to help him, the siege was raised.
M'toka compelled some Malongwana to join him, and plundered many
villages; he has been a great scourge. He also seems to have made an
attack upon an Arab caravan, plundering it of six bales of cloth and one
load of beads, telling them that if they wanted to get their things back
they must come and help him conquer Zombé. The siege lasted three
months, till the two brothers of Zombé, before-mentioned, came, and then
a complete rout ensued. M'toka left nearly all his guns behind him; his
allies, the Malongwana, had previously made their escape. It is two
months since this rout, so we have been prevented by a kind Providence
from coming soon enough. He was impudent and extortionate before, and
much more now that he has been emboldened by success in plundering.
_16th November, 1872._--After waiting some time for the men I sent men
back yesterday to look after the sick donkey, they arrived, but the
donkey died this morning. Its death was evidently caused by tsetse bite
and bad usage by one of the men, who kept it forty-eight hours without
water. The rain, no doubt, helped to a fatal end; it is a great loss to
me.
_17th November, 1872._--We went on along the bottom of a high ridge that
flanks the Lake on the west, and then turned up south-east to a village
hung on the edge of a deep chasm in which flows the Aeezy.
_18th November, 1872._--We were soon overwhelmed in a pouring rain, and
had to climb up the slippery red path which is parallel and near to
Mbétté's. One of the men picked up a little girl who had been deserted
by her mother. As she was benumbed by cold and wet he carried her; but
when I came up he threw her into the grass. I ordered a man to carry
her, and we gave her to one of the childless women; she is about four
years old, and not at all negro-looking. Our march took us about S.W. to
Kampamba's, the son of Kasonso, who is dead.
_19th November, 1872._--I visited Kampamba. He is still as agreeable as
he was before when he went with us to Liemba. I gave him two cloths as a
present. He has a good-sized village. There are heavy rains now and then
every day.
_20th, 21st, and 23rd November, 1872._--The men turn to stringing beads
for future use, and to all except defaulters I give a present of 2
dotis, and a handful of beads each. I have diminished the loads
considerably, which pleases them much. We have now 3-1/2 loads of
calico, and 120 bags of beads. Several go idle, but have to do any odd
work, such as helping the sick or anything they are ordered to do. I
gave the two Nassickers who lost the cow and calf only 1 doti, they were
worth 14 dotis. One of our men is behind, sick with dysentery. I am
obliged to leave him, but have sent for him twice, and have given him
cloth and beads.
_24th November, 1872._--Left Kampamba's to-day, and cross a meadow S.E.
of the village in which the River Muanani rises. It flows into the
Kapondosi and so on to the Lake. We made good way with Kiteneka as our
guide, who formerly accompanied Kampamba and ourselves to Liemba. We
went over a flat country once covered with trees, but now these have all
been cut down, say 4 to 5 feet from the ground, most likely for
clearing, as the reddish soil is very fertile. Long lines of hills of
denudation are in the distance, all directed to the Lake.
We came at last to Kasonso's successor's village on the River Molulwé,
which is, say, thirty yards wide, and thigh deep. It goes to the Lofu.
The chief here gave a sheep--a welcome present, for I was out of flesh
for four days. Kampamba is stingy as compared with his father.
_25th November, 1872._--We came in an hour's march to a rivulet called
the Casembe--the departed Kasonso lived here. The stream is very deep,
and flows slowly to the Lofu. Our path lay through much pollarded
forest, troublesome to walk in, as the stumps send out leafy shoots.
_26th November, 1872._--Started at daybreak. The grass was loaded with
dew, and a heavy mist hung over everything. Passed two villages of
people come out to cultivate this very fertile soil, which they manure
by burning branches of trees. The Rivulet Loela flows here, and is also
a tributary of the Lofu.
_27th November, 1872._--As it is Sunday we stay here at N'dari's
village, for we shall be in an uninhabited track to-morrow, beyond the
Lofu. The headman cooked six messes for us and begged us to remain for
more food, which we buy. He gave us a handsome present of flour and a
fowl, for which I return him a present of a doti. Very heavy rain and
high gusts of wind, which wet us all.
_28th November, 1872._--We came to the River Lofu in a mile. It is
sixty feet across and very deep. We made a bridge, and cut the banks
down, so that the donkey and cattle could pass over. It took us two
hours, during which time we hauled them all across with a rope. We were
here misled by our guide, who took us across a marsh covered with tufts
of grass, but with deep water between that never dries; there is a path
which goes round it. We came to another village with a river which must
be crossed--no stockade here, and the chief allowed us to camp in his
town. There are long low lines of hills all about. A man came to the
bridge to ask for toll-fee: as it was composed of one stick only, and
unfit for our use because rotten, I agreed to pay provided he made it
fit for our large company; but if I re-made and enlarged it, I said he
ought to give me a goat for the labour. He slunk away, and we laid large
trees across, where previously there was but one rotten pole.
_29th November, 1872._--Crossed the Loozi in two branches, and climbed
up the gentle ascent of Malembé to the village of Chiwé, whom I formerly
called Chibwé, being misled by the Yao tongue. Ilamba is the name of the
rill at his place. The Loozi's two branches were waist deep. The first
was crossed by a natural bridge of a fig-tree growing across. It runs
into the Lofu, which river rises in Isunga country at a mountain called
Kwitetté. The Chambezé rises east of this, and at the same place as
Louzua.
Chiwé presented a small goat with crooked legs and some millet flour,
but he grumbled at the size of the fathom cloth I gave. I offered
another fathom, and a bundle of needles, but he grumbled at this too,
and sent it back. On this I returned his goat and marched.
[The road lay through the same country among low hills, for several
miles, till they came on the _1st December_ to a rivulet called Lovu
Katanta, where curiously enough they found a nutmeg-tree in full
bearing. A wild species is found at Angola on the West Coast and it was
probably of this description, and not the same species as that which is
cultivated in the East. In two places he says:--]
Who planted the nutmeg-tree on the Katanta?
[Passing on with heavy rain pouring down, they now found themselves in
the Wemba country, the low tree-covered hills exhibiting here and there
"fine-grained schist and igneous rocks of red, white, and green
colour."]
_3rd December, 1872._--No food to be got on account of M'toka's and Tipo
Tipo's raids.
A stupid or perverse guide took us away to-day N.W. or W.N.W. The
villagers refused to lead us to Chipwité's, where food was to be had; he
is S.W. 1-1/2 day off. The guide had us at his mercy, for he said, "If
you go S.W. you will be five days without food or people." We crossed
the Kañomba, fifteen yards wide, and knee deep. Here our guide
disappeared, and so did the path. We crossed the Lampussi twice; it is
forty yards wide, and knee deep; our course is W.N.W. for about 4-1/2
hours to-day. We camped and sent men to search for a village that has
food. My third barometer (aneroid) is incurably injured by a fall, the
man who carried it slipped upon a clayey path.
_4th December, 1872._--Waiting for the return of our men in a green
wooded valley on the Lampussi River. Those who were sent yesterday
return without anything; they were directed falsely by the country
people, where nought could be bought. The people themselves are living
on grubs, roots, and fruits. The young plasterer Sphex is very fat on
coming out of its clay house, and a good relish for food. A man came to
us demanding his wife and child; they are probably in hiding; the slaves
of Tipo Tipo have been capturing people. One sinner destroyeth much
good!
_5th December, 1872._--The people eat mushrooms and leaves. My men
returned about 5 P.M. with two of Kafimbé's men bringing a present of
food to me. A little was bought, and we go on to-morrow to sleep two
nights on the way, and so to Kafimbé, who is a brother of Nsama's, and
fights him.
_6th December, 1872._--We cross the Lampussi again, and up to a mountain
along which we go, and then down to some ruins. This took us five hours,
and then with 2-1/4 more hours we reach Sintila. We hasten along as fast
as hungry men (four of them sick) can go to get food.
_1th December, 1872._--Off at 6.15 A.M. A leopard broke in upon us last
night and bit a woman. She screamed, and so did the donkey, and it ran
off. Our course lay along between two ranges of low hills, then, where
they ended, we went by a good-sized stream thirty yards or so across,
and then down into a valley to Kafimbé's.
_8th December, 1872._--Very heavy rains. I visited Kafimbé. He is an
intelligent and pleasant young man, who has been attacked several times
by Kitandula, the successor of Nsama of Itawa, and compelled to shift
from Motononga to this rivulet Motosi, which flows into the Kisi and
thence into Lake Moero.
_9th December, 1872._--Send off men to a distance for food, and wait of
course. Here there is none for either love or money. To-day a man came
from the Arab party at Kumba-Kumba's with a present of M'chelé and a
goat. He reports that they have killed Casembe, whose people concealed
from him the approach of the enemy till they were quite near. Having no
stockade, he fell an easy prey to them. The conquerors put his head and
all his ornaments on poles. His pretty wife escaped over Mofwé, and the
slaves of the Arabs ran riot everywhere. We sent a return present of two
dotis of cloth, one jorah of Kaniké, one doti of coloured cloth, three
pounds of beads, and a paper of needles.
_10th December, 1872._--Left Kafimbé's. He gave us three men to take us
into Chama's village, and came a mile along the road with us. Our road
took us by a winding course from one little deserted village to another.
_11th December, 1872._--Being far from water we went two hours across a
plain dotted with villages to a muddy rivulet called the Mukubwé (it
runs to Moero), where we found the village of a nephew of Nsama. This
young fellow was very liberal in gifts of food, and in return I gave him
two cloths. An Arab, Juma bin Seff, sent a goat to-day. They have been
riding it roughshod over all the inhabitants, and confess it.
_12th December, 1872._--Marenza sent a present of dura flour and a fowl,
and asked for a little butter as a charm. He seems unwilling to give us
a guide, though told by Kafimbé to do so. Many Garaganza about: they
trade in leglets, ivory, and slaves. We went on half-an-hour to the
River Mokoé, which is thirty yards wide, and carries off much water into
Malunda, and so to Lake Moero.
When palm-oil palms are cut down for toddy, they are allowed to lie
three days, then the top shoot is cut off smoothly, and the toddy begins
to flow; and it flows for a month, or a month and a half or so, lying on
the soil.
[The note made on the following day is written with a feeble hand, and
scarce one pencilled word tallies with its neighbour in form or
distinctness--in fact, it is seen at a glance what exertion it cost him
to write at all. He says no more than "Ill" in one place, but this is
the evident explanation; yet with the same painstaking determination of
old, the three rivers which they crossed have their names recorded, and
the hours of marching and the direction are all entered in his pocket
book.]
_13th December, 1872._--Westward about by south, and crossed a river,
Mokobwé, thirty-five yards. Ill, and after going S.W. camped in a
deserted village, S.W. travelling five hours. River Mekanda 2nd. Meñomba
3, where we camp.
_14th December, 1872._--Guides turned N.W. to take us to a son of
Nsama, and so play the usual present into his hands. I objected when I
saw their direction, but they said, "The path turns round in front."
After going a mile along the bank of the Meñomba, which has much water,
Susi broke through and ran south, till he got a S. by W. path, which we
followed, and came to a village having plenty of food. As we have now
camped in village, we sent the men off to recall the fugitive women, who
took us for Komba-Komba's men. Crossed the Luperé, which runs into the
Makobwé.
A leech crawling towards me in the village this morning elicited the
Bemba idea that they fall from the clouds or sky--"mulu." It is called
here "Mosunda a maluzé," or leech of the rivers; "Luba" is the Zanzibar
name. In one place I counted nineteen leeches in our path, in about a
mile; rain had fallen, and their appearance out of their hiding-places
suddenly after heavy rain may have given rise to the idea of their fall
with it as fishes do, and the thunder frog is supposed to do. Always too
cloudy and rainy for observations of stars.
_15th December, 1872._--The country is now level, covered with trees
pollarded for clothing, and to make ashes of for manure. There are many
deserted villages, few birds. Cross the Eiver Lithabo, thirty yards wide
and thigh deep, running fast to the S.W., joined by a small one near.
Reached village of Chipala, on the Rivulet Chikatula, which goes to
Moipanza. The Lithabo goes to Kalongwesi by a S.W. course.
_16th December, 1872._--Off at 6 A.M. across the Chikatula, and in
three-quarters of an hour crossed the Lopanza, twelve yards wide and
waist deep, being now in flood. The Lolela was before us in
half-an-hour, eight yards wide and thigh deep, both streams perennial
and embowered in tall umbrageous trees that love wet; both flow to the
Kalongwesi.
We came to quite a group of villages having food, and remain, as we got
only driblets in the last two camps. Met two Banyamwezi carrying salt to
Lobemba, of Moambu. They went to Kabuiré for it, and now retail it on
the way back.
At noon we got to the village of Kasiané, which is close to two
rivulets, named Lopanza and Lolela. The headman, a relative of Nsama,
brought me a large present of flour of dura, and I gave him two fathoms
of calico.
Floods by these sporadic rainfalls have discoloured waters, as seen in
Lopanza and Lolela to-day. The grass is all springing up quickly, and
the Maleza growing fast. The trees generally in full foliage. Different
shades of green, the dark prevailing; especially along rivulets, and the
hills in the distance are covered with dark blue haze. Here, in Lobemba,
they are gentle slopes of about 200 or 300 feet, and sandstone crops out
over their tops. In some parts clay schists appear, which look as if
they had been fused or were baked by intense heat.
The pugnacious spirit is one of the necessities of life. When people
have little or none of it, they are subjected to indignity and loss. My
own men walk into houses where we pass the nights without asking any
leave, and steal cassava without shame. I have to threaten and thrash to
keep them honest, while if we are at a village where the natives are a
little pugnacious they are as meek as sucking doves. The peace plan
involves indignity and wrong. I give little presents to the headmen, and
to some extent heal their hurt sensibilities. This is indeed much
appreciated, and produces profound hand-clapping.
_17th December, 1872._--It looked rainy, but we waited half-an-hour, and
then went on one hour and a half, when it set in and forced us to seek
shelter in a village. The head of it was very civil, and gave us two
baskets of cassava, and one of dura. I gave a small present first. The
district is called Kisinga, and flanks the Kalongwezé.
_18th December, 1872._--Over same flat pollarded forest until we
reached the Kalongwesé Kiver on the right bank, and about a quarter of a
mile east of the confluence of the Luéna or Kisaka. This side of the
river is called Kisinga, the other is Chama's and Kisinga too. The Luena
comes from Jangé in Casembe's land, or W.S.W. of this. The Kalongwesé
comes from the S.E. of this, and goes away N.W. The donkey sends a foot
every now and then through the roof of cavities made apparently by ants,
and sinks down 18 inches or more and nearly falls. These covered hollows
are right in the paths.
_19th December, 1872._--So cloudy and wet that no observations can be
taken for latitude and longitude at this real geographical point. The
Kalongwesé is sixty or eighty yards wide and four yards deep, about a
mile above the confluence of the Luéna. We crossed it in very small
canoes, and swamped one twice, but no one was lost. Marched S. about
1-1/4 hour.
_20th December, 1872._--Shut in by heavy clouds. Wait to see if it will
clear up. Went on at 7.15, drizzling as we came near the Mozumba or
chiefs stockade. A son of Chama tried to mislead us by setting out west,
but the path being grass-covered I objected, and soon came on to the
large clear path. The guide ran off to report to the son, but we kept on
our course, and he and the son followed us. We were met by a party, one
of whom tried to regale us by vociferous singing and trumpeting on an
antelope's horn, but I declined the deafening honour. Had we suffered
the misleading we should have come here to-morrow afternoon.
A wet bed last night, for it was in the canoe that was upset. It was so
rainy that there was no drying it.
_21st December, 1872._--Arrived at Chama's. Heavy clouds drifting past,
and falling drizzle. Chama's brother tried to mislead us yesterday, in
hopes of making us wander hopelessly and helplessly. Failing in this,
from my refusal to follow a grass-covered path, he ran before us to the
chief's stockade, and made all the women flee, which they did, leaving
their chickens damless. We gave him two handsome cloths, one for himself
and one for Chama, and said we wanted food only, and would buy it. They
are accustomed to the bullying of half-castes, who take what they like
for nothing. They are alarmed at our behaviour to-day, so we took quiet
possession of the stockade, as the place that they put us in was on the
open defenceless plain. Seventeen human skulls ornament the stockade.
They left their fowls, and pigeons. There was no bullying. Our women
went in to grind food, and came out without any noise. This flight seems
to be caused by the foolish brother of the chief, and it is difficult to
prevent stealing by my horde. The brother came drunk, and was taking off
a large sheaf of arrows, when we scolded and prevented him.
_22nd December, 1872._--We crossed a rivulet at Chama's village ten
yards wide and thigh deep, and afterwards in an hour and a half came to
a sedgy stream which we could barely cross. We hauled a cow across
bodily. Went on mainly south, and through much bracken.
_23rd December, 1872._--Off at 6 A.M. in a mist, and in an hour and a
quarter came to three large villages by three rills called Misangwa, and
much sponge; went on to other villages south, and a stockade.
_24th December, 1872._--Cloud in sky with drifting clouds from S. and
S.W. Very wet and drizzling. Sent back Chama's arrows, as his foolish
brother cannot use them against us now; there are 215 in the bundle.
Passed the Lopopussi running west to the Lofubu about seven yards wide,
it flows fast over rocks with heavy aquatic plants. The people are not
afraid of us here as they were so distressingly elsewhere: we hope to
buy food here.
_25th December, 1872, Christmas Day._--I thank the good Lord for the
good gift of His Son Christ Jesus our Lord. Slaughtered an ox, and gave
a fundo and a half to each of the party. This is our great day, so we
rest. It is cold and wet, day and night. The headman is gracious and
generous, which is very pleasant compared with awe, awe, and refusing to
sell, or stop to speak, or show the way.
The White Nile carrying forward its large quasi-tidal wave presents a
mass of water to the Blue Nile, which acts as a buffer to its rapid
flood. The White Nile being at a considerable height when the Blue
rushes down its steep slopes, presents its brother Nile with a soft
cushion into which it plunges, and is restrained by the _vis inertiæ_ of
the more slowly moving river, and, both united, pass on to form the
great inundation of the year in Lower Egypt. The Blue River brings down
the heavier portion of the Nile deposit, while the White River comes
down with the black finely divided matter from thousands of square miles
of forest in Manyuema, which probably gave the Nile its name, and is in
fact the real fertilizing ingredient in the mud that is annually left.
Some of the rivers in Manyuema, as the Luia and Machila, are of inky
blackness, and make the whole main stream of a very Nilotic hue. An
acquaintance with these dark flowing rivers, and scores of rills of
water tinged as dark as strong tea, was all my reward for plunging
through the terrible Manyuema mud or "glaur."
_26th December, 1872._--Along among the usual low tree-covered hills of
red and yellow and green schists--paths wet and slippery. Came to the
Lofubu, fifteen yards broad and very deep, water clear, flowing
north-west to join Luéna or Kisaka, as the Lopopussi goes west too into
Lofubu it becomes large as we saw. We crossed by a bridge, and the
donkey swam with men on each side of him. We came to three villages on
the other side with many iron furnaces. Wet and drizzling weather made
us stop soon. A herd of buffaloes, scared by our party, rushed off and
broke the trees in their hurry, otherwise there is no game or marks of
game visible.
_27th December, 1872._--Leave the villages on the Lofubu. A cascade
comes down on our left. The country undulating deeply, the hills, rising
at times 300 to 400 feet, are covered with stunted wood. There is much
of the common bracken fern and hart's-tongue. We cross one rivulet
running to the Lofubu, and camp by a blacksmith's rill in the jungle. No
rain fell to-day for a wonder, but the lower tier of clouds still drifts
past from N.W.
I killed a Naia Hadje snake seven feet long here, he reared up before me
and turned to fight. The under north-west stratum of clouds is composed
of fluffy cottony masses, the edges spread out as if on an electrical
machine--the upper or south-east is of broad fields like striated cat's
hair. The N.W. flies quickly, the S.E. slowly away where the others come
from. No observations have been possible through most of this month.
People assert that the new moon will bring drier weather, and the clouds
are preparing to change the N.W. lower stratum into S.E., ditto, ditto,
and the N.W. will be the upper tier.
A man, ill and unable to come on, was left all night in the rain,
without fire. We sent men back to carry him. Wet and cold. We are
evidently ascending as we come near the Chambezé. The N.E. clouds came
up this morning to meet the N.W. and thence the S.E. came across as if
combating the N.W. So as the new moon comes soon, it may be a real
change to drier weather.
4 P.M.--The man carried in here is very ill; we must carry him
to-morrow.
_29th December, 1872._--Our man Chipangawazi died last night and was
buried this morning. He was a quiet good man, his disease began at
Kampamba's. New moon last night.
_29th, or 1st January, 1873._--I am wrong two days.
_29th December, 1872._--After the burial and planting four branches of
Moriñga at the corners of the grave we went on southwards 3-1/4 hours to
a river, the Luongo, running strongly west and south to the Luapula,
then after one hour crossed it, twelve yards wide and waist deep. We met
a man with four of his kindred stripping off bark to make bark-cloth: he
gives me the above information about the Luongo.
_1st January, 1873. (30th.)_--Came on at 6 A.M. very cold. The rains
have ceased for a time. Arrive at the village of the man who met us
yesterday. As we have been unable to buy food, through the illness and
death of Chipangawazi, I camp here.
_2nd January, 1873._--Thursday--Wednesday was the 1st, I was two days
wrong.
_3rd January, 1873._--The villagers very anxious to take us to the west
to Chikumbi's, but I refused to follow them, and we made our course to
the Luongo. Went into the forest south without a path for 1-1/2 hour,
then through a flat forest, much fern and no game. We camped in the
forest at the Situngula Rivulet. A little quiet rain through the night.
A damp climate this--lichens on all the trees, even on those of 2 inches
diameter. Our last cow died of injuries received in crossing the Lofubu.
People buy it for food, so it is not an entire loss.
_4th January, 1873._--March south one hour to the Lopoposi or Lopopozi
stream of 25 or 30 feet, and now breast deep, flowing fast southwards to
join the Chambezé. Camped at Ketebé's at 2 P.M. on the Rivulet Kizima
after very heavy rain.
_5th January, 1873._--A woman of our party is very ill; she will require
to be carried to-morrow.
_6th January, 1873._--Ketebé or Kapesha very civil and generous. He sent
three men to guide us to his elder brother Chungu. The men drum and sing
harshly for him continually. I gave him half-a-pound of powder, and he
lay on his back rolling and clapping his hands, and all his men
lulliloed; then he turned on his front, and did the same. The men are
very timid--no wonder, the Arab slaves do as they choose with them. The
women burst out through, the stockade in terror when my men broke into
a chorus as they were pitching my tent. Cold, cloudy, and drizzling.
Much cultivation far from the stockades.
The sponges here are now full and overflowing, from the continuous and
heavy rains. Crops of mileza, maize, cassava, dura, tobacco, beans,
ground-nuts, are growing finely. A border is made round each patch,
manured by burning the hedge, and castor-oil plants, pumpkins,
calabashes, are planted in it to spread out over the grass.
_7th January, 1873._--A cold rainy day keeps us in a poor village very
unwillingly. 3 P.M. Fair, after rain all the morning--on to the Rivulet
Kamalopa, which runs to Kamolozzi and into Kapopozi.
_8th January, 1873._--Detained by heavy continuous rains in the village
Moenje. We are near Lake Bangweolo and in a damp region. Got off in the
afternoon in a drizzle; crossed a rill six feet wide, but now very deep,
and with large running sponges on each side; it is called the Kamalopa,
then one hour beyond came to a sponge, and a sluggish rivulet 100 yards
broad with broad sponges on either bank waist deep, and many leeches.
Came on through flat forest as usual S.W. and S.
[We may here call attention to the alteration of the face of the country
and the prominent notice of "sponges." His men speak of the march from
this point as one continual plunge in and out of morass, and through
rivers which were only distinguishable from the surrounding waters by
their deep currents and the necessity for using canoes. To a man reduced
in strength and chronically affected with dysenteric symptoms ever
likely to be aggravated by exposure, the effect may be well conceived!
It is probable that had Dr. Livingstone been at the head of a hundred
picked Europeans, every man would have been down within the next
fortnight. As it is, we cannot help thinking of his company of
followers, who must have been well led and under the most thorough
control to endure these marches at all, for nothing cows the African so
much as rain. The next day's journey may be taken as a specimen of the
hardships every one had to endure:--]
_9th January, 1873._--Mosumba of Chungu. After an hour we crossed the
rivulet and sponge of Nkulumuna, 100 feet of rivulet and 200 yards of
flood, besides some 200 yards of sponge full and running off; we then,
after another hour, crossed the large rivulet Lopopozi by a bridge which
was 45 feet long, and showed the deep water; then 100 yards of flood
thigh deep, and 200 or 300 yards of sponge. After this we crossed two
rills called Liñkanda and their sponges, the rills in flood 10 or 12
feet broad and thigh deep. After crossing the last we came near the
Mosumba, and received a message to build our sheds in the forest, which
we did.
Chungu knows what a nuisance a Safari (caravan) makes itself. Cloudy
day, and at noon heavy rain from N.W. The headman on receiving two
cloths said he would converse about our food and show it to-morrow. No
observations can be made, from clouds and rain.
_10th January, 1873._--Mosumba of Chungu. Rest to-day and get an insight
into the ford: cold rainy weather. When we prepared to visit Chungu, we
received a message that he had gone to his plantations to get millet. He
then sent for us at 1 P.M. to come, but on reaching the stockade we
heard a great Kelélé, or uproar, and found it being shut from terror. We
spoke to the inmates but in vain, so we returned. Chungu says that we
should put his head on a pole like Casembe's! We shall go on without him
to-morrow. The terror guns have inspired is extreme.
_11th January, 1873._--Chungu sent a goat and big basket of flour, and
excused his fears because guns had routed Casembe and his head was put
on a pole; it was his young men that raised the noise. We remain to buy
food, as there is scarcity at Mombo, in front. Cold and rainy weather,
never saw the like; but this is among the sponges of the Nile and near
the northern shores of Bangweolo.
_12th January, 1873._--A dry day enabled us to move forward an hour to a
rivulet and sponge, but by ascending it we came to its head and walked
over dryshod, then one hour to another broad rivulet--Pinda, sluggish,
and having 100 yards of sponge on each side. This had a stockaded
village, and the men in terror shut the gates. Our men climbed over and
opened them, but I gave the order to move forward through flat forest
till we came to a running rivulet of about twenty feet, but with 100
yards of sponge on each side. The white sand had come out as usual and
formed the bottom. Here we entered a village to pass the night. We
passed mines of fine black iron ore ("motapo"); it is magnetic.
_13th January, 1873._--Storm-stayed by rain and cold at the village on
the Rivulet Kalambosi, near the Chambezé. Never was in such a spell of
cold rainy weather except in going to Loanda in 1853. Sent back for
food.
_14th January, 1873._--Went on dry S.E. and then S. two hours to River
Mozinga, and marched parallel to it till we came to the confluence of
Kasié. Mosinga, 25 feet, waist deep, with 150 yards of sponge on right
bank and about 50 yards on left. There are many plots of cassava, maize,
millet, dura, ground-nuts, voandzeia, in the forest, all surrounded with
strong high hedges skilfully built, and manured with wood ashes. The
villagers are much afraid of us. After 4-1/2 hours we were brought up by
the deep rivulet Mpanda, to be crossed to-morrow in canoes. There are
many flowers in the forest: marigolds, a white jonquil-looking flower
without smell, many orchids, white, yellow, and pink Asclepias, with
bunches of French-white flowers, clematis--_Methonica gloriosa_,
gladiolus, and blue and deep purple polygalas, grasses with white starry
seed-vessels, and spikelets of brownish red and yellow. Besides these
there are beautiful blue flowering bulbs, and new flowers of pretty
delicate form and but little scent. To this list may be added balsams,
compositæ of blood-red colour and of purple; other flowers of liver
colour, bright canary yellow, pink orchids on spikes thickly covered all
round, and of three inches in length; spiderworts of fine blue or yellow
or even pink. Different coloured asclepedials; beautiful yellow and red
umbelliferous flowering plants; dill and wild parsnips; pretty flowery
aloes, yellow and red, in one whorl of blossoms; peas, and many other
flowering plants which I do not know. Very few birds or any kind of
game. The people are Babisa, who have fled from the west and are busy
catching fish in basket traps.
_15th January, 1873._--Found that Chungu had let us go astray towards
the Lake, and into an angle formed by the Mpandé and Lopopussi, and the
Lake-full of rivulets which are crossed with canoes. Chisupa, a headman
on the other side of the Mpanda, sent a present and denounced Chungu for
heartlessness. We explained to one man our change of route and went
first N.E., then E. to the Monsinga, which we forded again at a deep
place full of holes and rust-of-iron water, in which we floundered over
300 yards. We crossed a sponge thigh deep before we came to the Mosinga,
then on in flat forest to a stockaded village; the whole march about
east for six hours.
_16th January, 1873._--Away north-east and north to get out of the many
rivulets near the Lake back to the River Lopopussi, which now looms
large, and must be crossed in canoes. We have to wait in a village till
these are brought, and have only got 1-3/4 hour nearly north.
We were treated scurvily by Chungu. He knew that we were near the
Chambezé, but hid the knowledge and himself too. It is terror of guns.
_17th January, 1873._--We are troubled for want of canoes, but have to
treat gently with the owners, otherwise they would all run away, as
they have around Chungu's, in the belief that we should return to punish
their silly headman. By waiting patiently yesterday, we drew about
twenty canoes towards us this morning, but all too small for the donkey,
so we had to turn away back north-west to the bridge above Chungu's. If
we had tried to swim the donkey across alongside a canoe it would have
been terribly strained, as the Lopopussi is here quite two miles wide
and full of rushes, except in the main stream. It is all deep, and the
country being very level as the rivulets come near to the Lake, they
become very broad. Crossed two sponges with rivulets in their centre.
Much cultivation in the forest. In the second year the mileza and maize
are sickly and yellow white; in the first year, with fresh wood ashes,
they are dark green and strong. Very much of the forest falls for
manure. The people seem very eager cultivators. Possibly mounds have the
potash brought up in forming.
_18th January, 1873._--We lost a week by going to Chungu (a worthless
terrified headman), and came back to the ford of Lopopussi, which we
crossed, only from believing him to be an influential man who would
explain the country to us. We came up the Lopopussi three hours
yesterday, after spending two hours in going down to examine the canoes.
We hear that Sayde bin Ali is returning from Katanga with much ivory.
_19th January, 1873._--After prayers we went on to a fine village, and
on from it to the Mononsé, which, though only ten feet of deep stream
flowing S., had some 400 yards of most fatiguing, plunging, deep sponge,
which lay in a mass of dark-coloured rushes, that looked as if burnt
off: many leeches plagued us. We were now two hours out. We went on two
miles to another sponge and village, but went round its head dryshod,
then two hours more to sponge Lovu. Flat forest as usual.
_20th January, 1873._--Tried to observe lunars in vain; clouded over
all, thick and muggy. Came on disappointed and along the Lovu 1-1/2
mile. Crossed it by a felled tree lying over it. It is about six feet
deep, with 150 yards of sponge. Marched about 2-1/2 hours: very
unsatisfactory progress.
[In answer to a question as to whether Dr. Livingstone could possibly
manage to wade so much, Susi says that he was carried across these
sponges and the rivulets on the shoulders of Chowpéré or Chumah.]
_21st January, 1873._--Fundi lost himself yesterday, and we looked out
for him. He came at noon, having wandered in the eager pursuit of two
herds of eland; having seen no game for a long time, he lost himself in
the eager hope of getting one. We went on 2-1/2 hours, and were brought
up by the River Malalanzi, which is about 15 feet wide, waist deep, and
has 300 yards or more of sponge. Guides refused to come as Chituñkùe,
their headman, did not own them. We started alone: a man came after us
and tried to mislead us in vain.
_22nd January, 1873._--We pushed on through many deserted gardens and
villages, the man evidently sent to lead us astray from our S.E. course;
he turned back when he saw that we refused his artifice. Crossed another
rivulet, possibly the Lofu, now broad and deep, and then came to another
of several deep streams but sponge, not more than fifty feet in all.
Here we remained, having travelled in fine drizzling rain all the
morning. Population all gone from the war of Chitoka with this
Chituñkùe.
No astronomical observations worth naming during December and January;
impossible to take any, owing to clouds and rain.
It is trying beyond measure to be baffled by the natives lying and
misleading us wherever they can. They fear us very, greatly, and with a
terror that would gratify an anthropologist's heart. Their
unfriendliness is made more trying by our being totally unable to
observe for our position. It is either densely clouded, or continually
raining day and night. The country is covered with brackens, and
rivulets occur at least one every hour of the march. These are now deep,
and have a broad selvage of sponge. The lower stratum of clouds moves
quickly from the N.W.; the upper move slowly from S.E., and tell of rain
near.
_23rd January, 1873._--We have to send back to villages of Chituñkùe to
buy food. It was not reported to me that the country in front was
depopulated for three days, so I send a day back. I don't know where we
are, and the people are deceitful in their statements; unaccountably so,
though we deal fairly and kindly. Rain, rain, rain as if it never tired
on this watershed. The showers show little in the gauge, but keep
everything and every place wet and sloppy.
Our people return with a wretched present from Chituñkùe; bad flour and
a fowl, evidently meant to be rejected. He sent also an exorbitant
demand for gunpowder, and payment of guides. I refused his present, and
must plod on without guides, and this is very difficult from the
numerous streams.
_24th January, 1873._--Went on E. and N.E. to avoid the deep part of a
large river, which requires two canoes, but the men sent by the chief
would certainly hide them. Went 1-3/4 hour's journey to a large stream
through drizzling rain, at least 300 yards of deep water, amongst sedges
and sponges of 100 yards. One part was neck deep for fifty yards, and
the water cold. We plunged in elephants' footprints 1-1/2 hour, then
came on one hour to a small rivulet ten feet broad, but waist deep,
bridge covered and broken down. Carrying me across one of the broad deep
sedgy rivers is really a very difficult task. One we crossed was at
least 2000 feet broad, or more than 300 yards. The first part, the main
stream, came up to Susi's mouth, and wetted my seat and legs. One held
up my pistol behind, then one after another took a turn, and when he
sank into a deep elephant's foot-print, he required two to lift him, so
as to gain a footing on the level, which was over waist deep. Others
went on, and bent down the grass, to insure some footing on the side of
the elephants' path. Every ten or twelve paces brought us to a clear
stream, flowing fast in its own channel, while over all a strong current
came bodily through all the rushes and aquatic plants. Susi had the
first spell, then Farijala, then a tall, stout, Arab-looking man, then
Amoda, then Chanda, then Wadé Salé, and each time I was lifted off
bodily, and put on another pair of stout willing shoulders, and fifty
yards put them out of breath: no wonder! It was sore on the women folk
of our party. It took us full an hour and a half for all to cross over,
and several came over turn to help me and their friends. The water was
cold, and so was the wind, but no leeches plagued us. We had to hasten
on the building of sheds after crossing the second rivulet, as rain
threatened us. After 4 P.M. it came on a pouring cold rain, when we were
all under cover. We are anxious about food. The Lake is near, but we are
not sure of provisions, as there have been changes of population. Our
progress is distressingly slow. Wet, wet, wet; sloppy weather, truly,
and no observations, except that the land near the Lake being very
level, the rivers spread out into broad friths and sponges. The streams
are so numerous that there has been a scarcity of names. Here we have
Loon and Luéna. We had two Loous before, and another Luena.
_25th January, 1873._--Kept in by rain. A man from Unyanyembé joined us
this morning. He says that he was left sick. Rivulets and sponges again,
and through flat forest, where, as usual, we can see the slope of the
land by the leaves being washed into heaps in the direction which the
water in the paths wished to take. One and a half hours more, and then
to the River Loou, a large stream with bridge destroyed. Sent to make
repairs before we go over it, and then passed. The river is deep, and
flows fast to the S.W., having about 200 yards of safe flood flowing in
long grass--clear water. The men built their huts, and had their camp
ready by 3 P.M. A good day's work, not hindered by rain. The country all
depopulated, so we can buy nothing. Elephants and antelopes have been
here lately.
_26th January, 1873._--I arranged to go to our next River Luena, and
ascend it till we found it small enough for crossing, as it has much
"Tinga-tinga," or yielding spongy soil; but another plan was formed by
night, and we were requested to go down the Loou. Not wishing to appear
overbearing, I consented until we were, after two hours' southing,
brought up by several miles of Tinga-tinga. The people in a fishing
village ran away from us, and we had to wait for some sick ones. The
women are collecting mushrooms. A man came near us, but positively
refused to guide us to Matipa, or anywhere else.
The sick people compelled us to make an early halt.
_27th January, 1873._--On again through streams, over sponges and
rivulets thigh deep. There are marks of gnu and buffalo. I lose much
blood, but it is a safety-valve for me, and I have no fever or other
ailments.
_28th January, 1873._--A dreary wet morning, and no food that we know of
near. It is drop, drop, drop, and drizzling from the north-west. We
killed our last calf but one last night to give each a mouthful. At 9.30
we were allowed by the rain to leave our camp, and march S.E. for two
hours to a strong deep rivulet ten feet broad only, but waist deep, and
150 yards of flood all deep too. Sponge about forty yards in all, and
running fast out. Camped by a broad prairie or Bouga.
_29th January, 1873._--No rain in the night, for a wonder. We tramped
1-1/4 hour to a broad sponge, having at least 300 yards of flood, and
clear water flowing S.W., but no usual stream. All was stream flowing
through the rushes, knee and thigh deep. On still with the same,
repeated again and again, till we came to broad branching sponges, at
which I resolved to send out scouts S., S.E., and S.W. The music of the
singing birds, the music of the turtle doves, the screaming of the
frankolin proclaim man to be near.
_30th January, 1873._--Remain waiting for the scouts. Manuasera returned
at dark, having gone about eight hours south, and seen the Lake and two
islets. Smoke now appeared in the distance, so he turned, and the rest
went on to buy food where the smoke was. Wet evening.
FOOTNOTES:
[26] Bangé or hemp in time produces partial idiotcy if smoked in
excess. It is used amongst all the Interior tribes.
[27] Isaiah i. 8.