Leaves for Ujiji. Dangerous journey through forest. The Manyuema
understand Livingstone's kindness. Zanzibar slaves. Kasongo's.
Stalactite caves. Consequences of eating parrots. Ill. Attacked
in the forest. Providential deliverance. Another extraordinary
escape. Taken for Mohamad Bogharib. Running the gauntlet for
five hours. Loss of property. Reaches place of safety. Ill.
Mamohela. To the Luamo. Severe disappointment. Recovers. Severe
marching. Reaches Ujiji. Despondency. Opportune arrival of Mr.
Stanley. Joy and thankfulness of the old traveller. Determines
to examine north end of Lake Tanganyika. They start. Reach the
Lusizé. No outlet. "Theoretical discovery" of the real outlet.
Mr. Stanley ill. Returns to Ujiji. Leaves stores there.
Departure for Unyanyembé with Mr. Stanley. Abundance of
game.--Attacked by bees. Serious illness of Mr. Stanley.
Thankfulness at reaching Unyatiyembé.
_20th July, 1871._--I start back for Ujiji. All Dugumbé's people came to
say good bye, and convoy me a little way. I made a short march, for
being long inactive it is unwise to tire oneself on the first day, as it
is then difficult to get over the effects.
_21st July, 1871._--One of the slaves was sick, and the rest falsely
reported him to be seriously ill, to give them time to negotiate for
women with whom they had cohabited: Dugumbé saw through the fraud, and
said "Leave him to me: if he lives, I will feed him; if he dies, we
will bury him: do not delay for any one, but travel in a compact body,
as stragglers now are sure to be cut off." He lost a woman of his party,
who lagged behind, and seven others were killed besides, and the forest
hid the murderers. I was only too anxious to get away quickly, and on
the 22nd started off at daylight, and went about six miles to the
village of Mañkwara, where I spent the night when coming this way. The
chief Mokandira convoyed us hither: I promised him a cloth if I came
across from Lomamé. He wonders much at the underground houses, and never
heard of them till I told him about them. Many of the gullies which were
running fast when we came were now dry. Thunder began, and a few drops
of rain fell.
_23rd-24th July, 1871._--We crossed the River Kunda, of fifty yards, in
two canoes, and then ascended from the valley of denudation, in which it
flows to the ridge Lobango. Crowds followed, all anxious to carry loads
for a few beads. Several market people came to salute, who knew that we
had no hand in the massacre, as we are a different people from the
Arabs. In going and coming they must have a march of 25 miles with loads
so heavy no slave would carry them. They speak of us as "good:" the
anthropologists think that to be spoken of as wicked is better. Ezekiel
says that the Most High put His comeliness upon Jerusalem: if He does
not impart of His goodness to me I shall never be good: if He does not
put of His comeliness on me I shall never be comely in soul, but be like
these Arabs in whom Satan has full sway--the god of this world having
blinded their eyes.
_25th July, 1871._--We came over a beautiful country yesterday, a vast
hollow of denudation, with much cultivation, intersected by a ridge some
300 feet high, on which the villages are built: this is Lobango. The
path runs along the top of the ridge, and we see the fine country below
all spread out with different shades of green, as on a map. The colours
show the shapes of the different plantations in the great hollow drained
by the Kunda. After crossing the fast flowing Kahembai, which flows into
the Kunda, and it into Lualaba, we rose on to another intersecting
ridge, having a great many villages burned by Matereka or Salem
Mokadam's people, since we passed them in our course N.W. They had
slept on the ridge after we saw them, and next morning, in sheer
wantonness, fired their lodgings,--their slaves had evidently carried
the fire along from their lodgings, and set fire to houses of villages
in their route as a sort of horrid Moslem Nigger joke; it was done only
because they could do it without danger of punishment: it was such fun
to make the Mashensé, as they call all natives, houseless. Men are worse
than beasts of prey, if indeed it is lawful to call Zanzibar slaves men.
It is monstrous injustice to compare free Africans living under their
own chiefs and laws, and cultivating their own free lands, with what
slaves afterwards become at Zanzibar and elsewhere.
_26th July, 1871._--Came up out of the last valley of denudation--that
drained by Kahembai, and then along a level land with open forest. Four
men passed us in hot haste to announce the death of a woman at their
village to her relations living at another. I heard of several deaths
lately of dysentery. Pleurisy is common from cold winds from N.W.
Twenty-two men with large square black shields, capable of completely
hiding the whole person, came next in a trot to receive the body of
their relative and all her gear to carry her to her own home for burial:
about twenty women followed them, and the men waited under the trees
till they should have wound the body up and wept over her. They smeared
their bodies with clay, and their faces with soot. Reached our friend
Kama.
_27th July, 1871._--Left Kama's group of villages and went through many
others before we reached Kasongo's, and were welcomed by all the Arabs
of the camp at this place. Bought two milk goats reasonably, and rest
over Sunday. (_28th and 29th_). They asked permission to send a party
with me for goods to Ujiji; this will increase our numbers, and perhaps
safety too, among the justly irritated people between this and Bambarré.
All are enjoined to help me, and of course I must do the same to them.
It is colder here than at Nyañgwé. Kasongo is off guiding an ivory or
slaving party, and doing what business he can on his own account; he has
four guns, and will be the first to maraud on his own account.
_30th July, 1871._--They send thirty tusks to Ujiji, and seventeen
Manyuema volunteers to carry thither and back: these are the very first
who in modern times have ventured fifty miles from the place of their
birth. I came only three miles to a ridge overlooking the River Shokoyé,
and slept at village on a hill beyond it.
_31st July, 1871._--Passed through the defile between Mount Kimazi and
Mount Kijila. Below the cave with stalactite pillar in its door a fine
echo answers those who feel inclined to shout to it. Come to Mangala's
numerous villages, and two slaves being ill, rest on Wednesday.
_1st August, 1871._--A large market assembles close to us.
_2nd August, 1871._--Left Mangala's, and came through a great many
villages all deserted on our approach on account of the vengeance taken
by Dugumbé's party for the murder of some of their people. Kasongo's men
appeared eager to plunder their own countrymen: I had to scold and
threaten them, and set men to watch their deeds. Plantains are here very
abundant, good, and cheap. Came to Kittetté, and lodge in a village of
Loembo. About thirty foundries were passed; they are very high in the
roof, and thatched with leaves, from which the sparks roll off as sand
would. Rain runs off equally well.
_3rd August, 1871._--Three slaves escaped, and not to abandon ivory we
wait a day, Kasongo came up and filled their places.
I have often observed effigies of men made of wood in Manyuema; some of
clay are simply cones with a small hole in the top; on asking about them
here, I for the first time obtained reliable information. They are
called Bathata--fathers or ancients--and the name of each is carefully
preserved. Those here at Kittetté were evidently the names of chiefs,
Molenda being the most ancient, whilst Mbayo Yamba, Kamoanga, Kitambwé,
Noñgo, Aulumba, Yengé Yengé, Simba Mayañga, Loembwé, are more recently
dead. They were careful to have the exact pronunciation of the names.
The old men told me that on certain occasions they offer goat's flesh to
them: men eat it, and allow no young person or women to partake. The
flesh of the parrot is only eaten by very old men. They say that if
eaten by young men their children will have the waddling gait of the
bird. They say that originally those who preceded Molenda came from
Kongolakokwa, which conveys no idea to my mind. It was interesting to
get even this little bit of history here. (Nkoñgolo = Deity; Nkoñgolokwa
as the Deity.)
_4th August, 1871._--Came through miles of villages all burned because
the people refused a certain Abdullah lodgings! The men had begun to
re-thatch the huts, and kept out of our way, but a goat was speared by
some one in hiding, and we knew danger was near. Abdullah admitted that
he had no other reason for burning them than the unwillingness of the
people to lodge him and his slaves without payment, with the certainty
of getting their food stolen and utensils destroyed.
_5th and 6th August, 1871._--Through many miles of palm-trees and
plantains to a Boma or stockaded village, where we slept, though the
people were evidently suspicious and unfriendly.
_7th August, 1871._--To a village, ill and almost every step in pain.
The people all ran away, and appeared in the distance armed, and refused
to come near--then came and threw stones at us, and afterwards tried to
kill those who went for water. We sleep uncomfortably, the natives
watching us all round. Sent men to see if the way was clear.
_8th August, 1871._--They would come to no parley. They knew their
advantage, and the wrongs they had suffered from Bin Juma and Mohamad's
men when they threw down the ivory in the forest. In passing along the
narrow path with a wall of dense vegetation touching each hand, we came
to a point where an ambush had been placed, and trees cut down to
obstruct us while they speared us; but for some reason it was abandoned.
Nothing could be detected; but by stooping down to the earth and peering
up towards the sun, a dark shade could sometimes be seen: this was an
infuriated savage, and a slight rustle in the dense vegetation meant a
spear. A large spear from my right lunged past and almost grazed my
back, and stuck firmly into the soil. The two men from whom it came
appeared in an opening in the forest only ten yards off and bolted, one
looking back over his shoulder as he ran. As they are expert with the
spear I don't know how it missed, except that he was too sure of his aim
and the good hand of God was upon me.
I was behind the main body, and all were allowed to pass till I, the
leader, who was believed to be Mohamad Bogharib, or Kolokolo himself,
came up to the point where they lay. A red jacket they had formerly seen
me wearing was proof to them, that I was the same that sent Bin Juma to
kill five of their men, capture eleven women and children, and
twenty-five goats. Another spear was thrown at me by an unseen
assailant, and it missed me by about a foot in front. Guns were fired
into the dense mass of forest, but with no effect, for nothing could be
seen; but we heard the men jeering and denouncing us close by: two of
our party were slain.
Coming to a part of the forest cleared for cultivation I noticed a
gigantic tree, made still taller by growing on an ant-hill 20 feet high;
it had fire applied near its roots, I heard a crack which told that the
fire had done its work, but felt no alarm till I saw it come straight
towards me: I ran a few paces back, and down it came to the ground one
yard behind me, and breaking into several lengths, it covered me with a
cloud of dust. Had the branches not previously been rotted off, I could
scarcely have escaped.
Three times in one day was I delivered from impending death.
My attendants, who were scattered in all directions, came running back
to me, calling out, "Peace! peace! you will finish all your work in
spite of these people, and in spite of everything." Like them, I took it
as an omen of good success to crown me yet, thanks to the "Almighty
Preserver of men."
We had five hours of running the gauntlet, waylaid by spearmen, who all
felt that if they killed me they would be revenging the death of
relations. From each hole in the tangled mass we looked for a spear; and
each moment expected to hear the rustle which told of deadly weapons
hurled at us. I became weary with the constant strain of danger,
and--as, I suppose, happens with soldiers on the field of battle--not
courageous, but perfectly indifferent whether I were killed or not.
When at last we got out of the forest and crossed the Liya on to the
cleared lands near the villages of Monan-bundwa, we lay down to rest,
and soon saw Muanampunda coming, walking up in a stately manner unarmed
to meet us. He had heard the vain firing of my men into the bush, and
came to ask what was the matter. I explained the mistake that Munangonga
had made in supposing that I was Kolokolo, the deeds of whose men he
knew, and then we went on to his village together.
In the evening he sent to say that if I would give him all my people who
had guns, he would call his people together, burn off all the vegetation
they could fire, and punish our enemies, bringing me ten goats instead
of the three milch goats I had lost. I again explained that the attack
was made by a mistake in thinking I was Mohamad Bogharib, and that I had
no wish to kill men: to join in his old feud would only make matters
worse. This he could perfectly understand.
I lost all my remaining calico, a telescope, umbrella, and five spears,
by one of the slaves throwing down the load and taking up his own bundle
of country cloth.
_9th August, 1871._--Went on towards Mamohela, now deserted by the
Arabs. Monanponda convoyed me a long way, and at one spot, with grass
all trodden down, he said, "Here we killed a man of Moezia and ate his
body." The meat cut up had been seen by Dugumbé.
_10th August, 1871._--In connection with this affair the party that came
through from Mamalulu found that a great fight had taken place at
Muanampunda's, and they saw the meat cut up to be cooked with bananas.
They did not like the strangers to look at their meat, but said, "Go on,
and let our feast alone," they did not want to be sneered at. The same
Muanampunda or Monambonda told me frankly that they ate the man of
Moezia: they seem to eat their foes to inspire courage, or in revenge.
One point is very remarkable; it is not want that has led to the custom,
for the country is full of food: nobody is starved of farinaceous food;
they have maize, dura, pennisetum, cassava and sweet potatoes, and for
fatty ingredients of diet, the palm-oil, ground-nuts, sessamum, and a
tree whose fruit yields a fine sweet oil: the saccharine materials
needed are found in the sugar-cane, bananas, and plantains.
Goats, sheep, fowls, dogs, pigs, abound in the villages, whilst the
forest affords elephants, zebras, buffaloes, antelopes, and in the
streams there are many varieties of fish. The nitrogenous ingredients
are abundant, and they have dainties in palm-toddy, and tobacco or
Bangé: the soil is so fruitful that mere scraping off the weeds is as
good as ploughing, so that the reason for cannibalism does not lie in
starvation or in want of animal matter, as was said to be the case with
the New Zealanders. The only feasible reason I can discover is a
depraved appetite, giving an extraordinary craving for meat which we
call "high." They are said to bury a dead body for a couple of days in
the soil in a forest, and in that time, owing to the climate, it soon
becomes putrid enough for the strongest stomachs.
The Lualaba has many oysters in it with very thick shells. They are
called _Makessi_, and at certain seasons are dived for by the Bagenya
women: pearls are said to be found in them, but boring to string them
has never been thought of. _Kanone_, Ibis religiosa. _Uruko_, Kuss name
of coffee.
The Manyuema are so afraid of guns, that a man borrows one to settle any
dispute or claim: he goes with it over his shoulder, and quickly
arranges the matter by the pressure it brings, though they all know that
he could not use it.
_Gulu_, Deity above, or heaven. _Mamvu_, earth or below. _Gulu_ is a
person, and men, on death, go to him. _Nkoba,_ lightning. _Nkongolo_,
Deity (?). _Kula_ or _Nkula_, salt spring west of Nyangwé. _Kalunda_,
ditto. _Kiria_, rapid down river. _Kirila_, islet in sight of Nyangwé.
_Magoya_, ditto.
_Note_.--The chief Zurampela is about N.W. of Nyangwé, and three days
off. The Luivé River, of very red water, is crossed, and the larger
Mabila River receives it into its very dark water before Mabila enters
Lualaba.
A ball of hair rolled in the stomach of a lion, as calculi are, is a
great charm among the Arabs: it scares away other animals, they say.
Lion's fat smeared on the tails of oxen taken through a country
abounding in tsetse, or bungo, is a sure preventive; when I heard of
this, I thought that lion's fat would be as difficult of collection as
gnat's brains or mosquito tongues, but I was assured that many lions
are killed on the Basango highland, and they, in common with all beasts
there, are extremely fat: so it is not at all difficult to buy a
calabash of the preventive, and Banyamwezi, desirous of taking cattle to
the coast for sale, know the substance, and use it successfully (?).
_11th August, 1871._--Came on by a long march of six hours across plains
of grass and watercourses, lined with beautiful trees, to Kassessa's,
the chief of Mamohela, who has helped the Arabs to scourge several of
his countrymen for old feuds: he gave them goats, and then guided them
by night to the villages, where they got more goats and many captives,
each to be redeemed with ten goats more. During the last foray, however,
the people learned that every shot does not kill, and they came up to
the party with bows and arrows, and compelled the slaves to throw down
their guns and powder-horns. They would have shown no mercy had Manyuema
been thus in slave power; but this is a beginning of the end, which will
exclude Arab traders from the country. I rested half a day, as I am
still ill. I do most devoutly thank the Lord for sparing my life three
times in one day. The Lord is good, a stronghold in the day of trouble,
and He knows them that trust in Him.
[The brevity of the following notes is fully accounted for: Livingstone
was evidently suffering too severely to write more.]
_12th August, 1871._--Mamohela camp all burned off. We sleep at Mamohela
village.
_13th August, 1871._--At a village on the bank of River Lolindi, I am
suffering greatly. A man brought a young, nearly full-fledged, kite from
a nest on a tree: this is the first case of their breeding, that I am
sure of, in this country: they are migratory into these intertropical
lands from the south, probably.
_14th August, 1871._--Across many brisk burns to a village on the side
of a mountain range. First rains 12th and 14th, gentle; but near Luamo,
it ran on the paths, and caused dew.
_15th August, 1871._--To Muanambonyo's. Golungo, a bush buck, with
stripes across body, and two rows of spots along the sides (?)
_16th August, 1871._--To Luamo River. Very ill with bowels.
_17th August, 1871._--Cross river, and sent a message to my friend.
Katomba sent a bountiful supply of food back.
_18th August, 1871._--Reached Katomba, at Moenemgoi's, and was welcomed
by all the heavily-laden Arab traders. They carry their trade spoil in
three relays. Kenyengeré attacked before I came, and 150 captives were
taken and about 100 slain; this is an old feud of Moenemgoi, which the
Arabs took up for their own gain. No news whatever from Ujiji, and M.
Bogharib is still at Bambarré, with all my letters.
_19th-20th August, 1871._--Rest from weakness. (_21st August, 1871._) Up
to the palms on the west of Mount Kanyima Pass. (_22nd August, 1871._)
Bambarré. (_28th August, 1871._) Better and thankful. Katomba's party
has nearly a thousand frasilahs of ivory, and Mohamad's has 300
frasilahs.
_29th August, 1871._--Ill all night, and remain. (_30th August, 1871._)
Ditto, ditto; but go on to Monandenda's on River Lombonda.
_31st August, 1871._--Up and half over the mountain range, (_1st
September, 1871_) and sleep in dense forest, with several fine running
streams.
_2nd September, 1871._--Over the range, and down on to a marble-capped
hill, with a village on top.
_3rd September, 1871._--Equinoctial gales. On to Lohombo.
_5th September, 1871._--To Kasangangazi's. (_6th September, 1871._)
Rest. (_7th September, 1871._) Mamba's. Rest on 8th. (_9th September,
1871._) Ditto ditto. People falsely accused of stealing; but I disproved
it to the confusion of the Arabs, who wish to be able to say, "the
people of the English steal too." A very rough road from Kasangangazi's
hither, and several running rivulets crossed.
_10th September, 1871._--Manyuema boy followed us, but I insisted on his
father's consent, which was freely given: marching proved too hard for
him, however, and in a few days he left.
Down into the valley of the Kapemba through beautiful undulating
country, and came to village of Amru: this is a common name, and is used
as "man," or "comrade," or "mate."
_11th September, 1871._--Up a very steep high mountain range, Moloni or
Mononi, and down to a village at the bottom on the other side, of a man
called Molembu.
_12th September, 1871._--Two men sick. Wait, though I am now
comparatively sound and well. Dura flour, which we can now procure,
helps to strengthen me: it is nearest to wheaten flour; maize meal is
called "cold," and not so wholesome as the _Holeus sorghum_ or dura. A
lengthy march through a level country, with high mountain ranges on each
hand; along that on the left our first path lay, and it was very
fatiguing. We came to the Rivulet Kalangai. I had hinted to Mohamad that
if he harboured my deserters, it might go hard with him; and he came
after me for two marches, and begged me not to think that he did
encourage them. They came impudently into the village, and I had to
drive them out: I suspected that he had sent them. I explained, and he
gave me a goat, which I sent back for.
_13th September, 1871._--This march back completely used up the Manyuema
boy: he could not speak, or tell what he wanted cooked, when he arrived.
I did not see him go back, and felt sorry for the poor boy, who left us
by night. People here would sell nothing, so I was glad of the goat.
_14th September, 1871._--To Pyanamosindé's. _(15th September, 1871.)_ To
Karungamagao's; very fine undulating green country. _(16th and 17th
September, 1871.)_ Rest, as we could get food to buy.
_(18th September, 1871.)_ To a stockaded village, where the people
ordered us to leave. We complied, and went out half a mile and built
our sheds in the forest: I like sheds in the forest much better than
huts in the villages, for we have no mice or vermin, and incur no
obligation.
_19th September, 1871._--Found that Barua are destroying all the
Manyuema villages not stockaded.
_20th September, 1871._--We came to Kunda's on the River Katemba,
through great plantations of cassava, and then to a woman chief's, and
now regularly built our own huts apart from the villages, near the hot
fountain called Kabila which is about blood-heat, and flows across the
path. Crossing this we came to Mokwaniwa's, on the River Gombezé, and
met a caravan, under Nassur Masudi, of 200 guns. He presented a fine
sheep, and reported that Seyed Majid was dead--he had been ailing and
fell from some part of his new house at Darsalam, and in three days
afterwards expired. He was a true and warm friend to me and did all he
could to aid me with his subjects, giving me two Sultan's letters for
the purpose. Seyed Burghash succeeds him; this change causes anxiety.
Will Seyed Burghash's goodness endure now that he has the Sultanate?
Small-pox raged lately at Ujiji.
_22nd September, 1871._--Caravan goes northwards, and we rest, and eat
the sheep kindly presented.
_23rd September, 1871._--We now passed through the country of mixed
Barua and Baguha, crossed the River Loñgumba twice and then came near
the great mountain mass on west of Tanganyika. From Mokwaniwa's to
Tanganyika is about ten good marches through open forest. The Guha
people are not very friendly; they know strangers too well to show
kindness: like Manyuema, they are also keen traders. I was sorely
knocked up by this march from Nyañgwé back to Ujiji. In the latter part
of it, I felt as if dying on my feet. Almost every step was in pain, the
appetite failed, and a little bit of meat caused violent diarrhoea,
whilst the mind, sorely depressed, reacted on the body. All the traders
were returning successful: I alone had failed and experienced worry,
thwarting, baffling, when almost in sight of the end towards which I
strained.
_3rd October, 1871._--I read the whole Bible through four times whilst I
was in Manyuema.
_8th October, 1871._--The road covered with angular fragments of quartz
was very sore to my feet, which are crammed into ill-made French shoes.
How the bare feet of the men and women stood out, I don't know; it was
hard enough on mine though protected by the shoes. We marched in the
afternoons where water at this season was scarce. The dust of the march
caused ophthalmia, like that which afflicted Speke: this was my first
touch of it in Africa. We now came to the Lobumba River, which flows
into Tanganyika, and then to the village Loanda and sent to Kasanga, the
Guha chief, for canoes. The Loñgumba rises, like the Lobumba, in the
mountains called Kabogo West. We heard great noises, as if thunder, as
far as twelve days off, which were ascribed to Kabogo, as if it had
subterranean caves into which the waves rushed with great noise, and it
may be that the Loñgumba is the outlet of Tanganyika: it becomes the
Luassé further down, and then the Luamo before it joins the Lualaba: the
country slopes that way, but I was too ill to examine its source.
_9th October, 1871._--On to islet Kasengé. After much delay got a good
canoe for three dotis, and on _15th October, 1871_ went to the islet
Kabiziwa.
_18th October, 1871._--Start for Kabogo East, and _19th_ reach it 8 A.M.
_20th October, 1871._--Rest men.
_22nd October, 1871._--To Rombola.
_23rd October, 1871._--At dawn, off and go to Ujiji. Welcomed by all the
Arabs, particularly by Moenyegheré. I was now reduced to a skeleton,
but the market being held daily, and all kinds of native food brought to
it, I hoped that food and rest would soon restore me, but in the evening
my people came and told me that Shereef had sold off all my goods, and
Moenyegheré confirmed it by saying, "We protested, but he did not leave
a single yard of calico out of 3000, nor a string of beads out of 700
lbs." This was distressing. I had made up my mind, if I could not get
people at Ujiji, to wait till men should come from the coast, but to
wait in beggary was what I never contemplated, and I now felt miserable.
Shereef was evidently a moral idiot, for he came without shame to shake
hands with me, and when I refused, assumed an air of displeasure, as
having been badly treated; and afterwards came with his "Balghere,"
good-luck salutation, twice a day, and on leaving said, "I am going to
pray," till I told him that were I an Arab, his hand and both ears would
be cut off for thieving, as he knew, and I wanted no salutations from
him. In my distress it was annoying to see Shereef's slaves passing from
the market with all the good things that my goods had bought.
_24th October, 1871._--My property had been sold to Shereef's friends at
merely nominal prices. Syed bin Majid, a good man, proposed that they
should be returned, and the ivory be taken from Shereef; but they would
not restore stolen property, though they knew it to be stolen.
Christians would have acted differently, even those of the lowest
classes. I felt in my destitution as if I were the man who went down
from Jerusalem to Jericho, and fell among thieves; but I could not hope
for Priest, Levite, or good Samaritan to come by on either side, but one
morning Syed bin Majid said to me, "Now this is the first time we have
been alone together; I have no goods, but I have ivory; let me, I pray
you, sell some ivory, and give the goods to you." This was encouraging;
but I said, "Not yet, but by-and-bye." I had still a few barter goods
left, which I had taken the precaution to deposit with Mohamad bin Saleh
before going to Manyuema, in case of returning in extreme need. But when
my spirits were at their lowest ebb, the good Samaritan was close at
hand, for one morning Susi came running at the top of his speed and
gasped out, "An Englishman! I see him!" and off he darted to meet him.
The American flag at the head of a caravan told of the nationality of
the stranger. Bales of goods, baths of tin, huge kettles, cooking pots,
tents, &c, made me think "This must be a luxurious traveller, and not
one at his wits' end like me." _(28th October, 1871.)_ It was Henry
Moreland Stanley, the travelling correspondent of the _New York Herald,_
sent by James Gordon Bennett, junior, at an expense of more than
4000_l._, to obtain accurate information about Dr. Livingstone if
living, and if dead to bring home my bones. The news he had to tell to
one who had been two full years without any tidings from Europe made my
whole frame thrill. The terrible fate that had befallen France, the
telegraphic cables successfully laid in the Atlantic, the election of
General Grant, the death of good Lord Clarendon--my constant friend, the
proof that Her Majesty's Government had not forgotten me in voting
1000_l_. for supplies, and many other points of interest, revived
emotions that had lain dormant in Manyuema. Appetite returned, and
instead of the spare, tasteless, two meals a day, I ate four times
daily, and in a week began to feel strong. I am not of a demonstrative
turn; as cold, indeed, as we islanders are usually reputed to be, but
this disinterested kindness of Mr. Bennett, so nobly carried into effect
by Mr. Stanley, was simply overwhelming. I really do feel extremely
grateful, and at the same time I am a little ashamed at not being more
worthy of the generosity. Mr. Stanley has done his part with untiring
energy; good judgment in the teeth of very serious obstacles. His
helpmates turned out depraved blackguards, who, by their excesses at
Zanzibar and elsewhere, had ruined their constitutions, and prepared
their systems to be fit provender for the grave. They had used up their
strength by wickedness, and were of next to no service, but rather
downdrafts and unbearable drags to progress.
_16th November, 1871._--As Tanganyika explorations are said by Mr.
Stanley to be an object of interest to Sir Roderick, we go at his
expense and by his men to the north of the Lake.
[Dr. Livingstone on a previous occasion wrote from the interior of
Africa to the effect that Lake Tanganyika poured its waters into the
Albert Nyanza Lake of Baker. At the time perhaps he hardly realized the
interest that such an announcement was likely to occasion. He was now
shown the importance of ascertaining by actual observation whether the
junction really existed, and for this purpose he started with Mr.
Stanley to explore the region of the supposed connecting link in the
North, so as to verify the statements of the Arabs.]
_16th November, 1871._--Four hours to Chigoma.
_20th and 21st November, 1871._--Passed a very crowded population, the
men calling to us to land to be fleeced and insulted by way of Mahonga
or Mutuari: they threw stones in rage, and one, apparently slung,
lighted close to the canoe. We came on until after dark, and landed
under a cliff to rest and cook, but a crowd came and made inquiries,
then a few more came as if to investigate more perfectly: they told us
to sleep, and to-morrow friendship should be made. We put our luggage on
board and set a watch on the cliff. A number of men came along, cowering
behind rocks, which then aroused suspicion, and we slipped off quietly;
they called after us, as men baulked of their prey. We went on five
hours and slept, and then this morning came on to Magala, where the
people are civil, but Mukamba had war with some one. The Lake narrows to
about ten miles, as the western mountains come towards the eastern
range, that being about N.N.W. magnetic. Many stumps of trees killed by
water show an encroachment by the Lake on the east side. A transverse
range seems to shut in the north end, but there is open country to the
east and west of its ends.
_24th November, 1871._--To Point Kizuka in Mukamba's country. A
Molongwana came to us from Mukamba and asserted most positively that all
the water of Tanganyika flowed into the River Lusizé, and then on to
Ukerewé of Mtéza; nothing could be more clear than his statements.
_25th November, 1871._--We came on about two hours to some villages on a
high bank where Mukamba is living. The chief, a young good-looking man
like Mugala, came and welcomed us. Our friend of yesterday now declared
as positively as before that the water of Lusizé flowed into Tanganyika,
and not the way he said yesterday! I have not the smallest doubt but
Tanganyika discharges somewhere, though we may be unable to find it.
Lusizé goes to or comes from Luanda and Karagwé. This is hopeful, but I
suspend my judgment. War rages between Mukamba and Wasmashanga or
Uasmasané, a chief between this and Lusizé: ten men were killed of
Mukamba's people a few days ago. Vast numbers of fishermen ply their
calling night and day as far as we can see. Tanganyika closes in except
at one point N. and by W. of us. The highest point of the western range,
about 7000 feet above the sea, is Sumburuza. We are to go to-morrow to
Luhinga, elder brother of Mukamba, near Lusizé, and the chief follows us
next day.
_26th November, 1871._--Sunday. Mr. Stanley has severe fever. I gave
Mukamba 9 dotis and 9 fundos. The end of Tanganyika seen clearly is
rounded off about 4' broad from east to west.
_27th November, 1871._--Mr. Stanley is better. We started at sunset
westwards, then northwards for seven hours, and at 4 A.M. reached
Lohinga, at the mouth of the Lusizé.
_28th November, 1871._--Shot an _Ibis religiosa._ In the afternoon
Luhinga, the superior of Mukambé, came and showed himself very
intelligent. He named eighteen rivers, four of which enter Tanganyika,
and the rest Lusizé: all come into, none leave Tanganyika.[15] Lusizé is
said to rise in Kwangeregéré in the Kivo lagoon, between Mutumbé and
Luanda. Nyabungu is chief of Mutumbé. Luhinga is the most intelligent
and the frankest chief we have seen here.
_29th November, 1871._--We go to see the Lusizé Eiver in a canoe. The
mouth is filled with large reedy sedgy islets: there are three branches,
about twelve to fifteen yards broad, and one fathom deep, with a strong
current of 2' per hour: water discoloured. The outlet of the Lake is
probably by the Loñgumba River into Lualaba as the Luamo, but this as
yet must be set down as a "theoretical discovery."
_30th November, 1871._--A large present of eggs, flour, and a sheep came
from Mukamba. Mr. Stanley went round to a bay in the west, to which the
mountains come sheer down.
_1st December, 1871, Friday._--Latitude last night 3° 18' 3" S. I gave
fifteen cloths to Lohinga, which pleased him highly. Kuansibura is the
chief who lives near Kivo, the lagoon from which the Lusizé rises: they
say it flows under a rock.
_2nd December, 1871._--Ill from bilious attack.
_3rd December, 1871._--Better and thankful. Men went off to bring
Mukamba, whose wife brought us a handsome present of milk, beer, and
cassava. She is a good-looking young woman, of light colour and full
lips, with two children of eight or ten years of age. We gave them
cloths, and sheasked beads, so we made them a present of two fundos. By
lunars I was one day wrong to-day.
_4th December, 1871._--Very heavy rain from north all night. Baker's
Lake cannot be as near as he puts it in his map, for it is unknown to
Lohingé. He thinks that he is a hundred years old, but he is really
about forty-five! Namataranga is the name of birds which float high in
air in large flocks.
_5th December, 1871._--We go over to a point on our east. The bay is
about 12' broad: the mountains here are very beautiful. We visited the
chief Mukamba, at his village five miles north of Lohinga's; he wanted
us to remain a few days, but I declined. We saw two flocks of _Ibis
religiosa,_ numbering in all fifty birds, feeding like geese.
_6th December, 1871._--Remain at Luhinga's.
_7th December, 1871._--Start and go S.W. to Lohanga: passed the point
where Speke turned, then breakfasted at the marketplace.
_8th December, 1871._--Go on to Mukamba; near the boundary of Babembé
and Bavira. We pulled six hours to a rocky islet, with two rocks covered
with trees on its western side. The Babembé are said to be dangerous, on
account of having been slaughtered by the Malongwana. The Lat. of these
islands is 3° 41' S.
_9th December, 1871._--Leave New York Herald Islet and go S. to Lubumba
Cape. The people now are the Basansas along the coast. Some men here
were drunk and troublesome: we gave them a present and left them about
4-1/2 in afternoon and went to an islet at the north end in about three
hours, good pulling, and afterwards in eight hours to the eastern shore;
this makes the Lake, say, 28 or 30 miles broad. We coasted along to
Mokungos and rested.
_10th December, 1871._--Kisessa is chief of all the islet Mozima. His
son was maltreated at Ujiji and died in consequence; this stopped the
dura trade, and we were not assaulted because not Malongwana.
_11th December, 1871._--Leave Mokungo at 6 A.M. and coast along 6-1/2
hours to Sazzi.
_12th December, 1871._--Mr. Stanley ill with fever. Off, and after three
hours, stop at Masambo village.
_13th December, 1871._--Mr. Stanley better. Go on to Ujiji. Mr. Stanley
received a letter from Consul Webb (American) of 11th June last, and
telegrams from Aden up to 29th April.
_14th December, 1871._--Many people off to fight Mirambo at Unyanyembé:
their wives promenade and weave green leaves for victory.
_15th December, 1871._--At Ujiji. Getting ready to march east for my
goods.
_16th December, 1871._--Engage paddlers to Tongwé and a guide.
_17th December, 1871._--S. _18th._--Writing. _19th-20th._--Still
writing despatches. Packed up the large tin box with Manyuema swords and
spear heads, for transmission home by Mr. Stanley. Two chronometers and two
watches--anklets of Nzigé and of Manyuema. Leave with Mohamad bin Saleh
a box with books, shirts, paper, &c.; also large and small beads, tea,
coffee and sugar.
_21st December, 1871._--Heavy rains for planting now.
_22nd December, 1871._--Stanley ill of fever.
_23rd December, 1871._--Do. very ill. Rainy and uncomfortable.
_24th December, 1871._--S. _25th.--Christmas_. I leave here one bag of
beads in a skin, 2 bags of Sungo mazi 746 and 756 blue. Gardner's bag of
beads, soap 2 bars in 3 boxes (wood). 1st, tea and matunda; 2nd, wooden
box, paper and shirts; 3rd, iron box, shoes, quinine, 1 bag of coffee,
sextant stand, one long wooden box empty. These are left with Mohamad
bin Saleh at Ujiji, Christmas Day, 1871. Two bags of beads are already
here and table cloths.
_26th December, 1871._--Had but a sorry Christmas yesterday.
_27th December, 1871.--Mem_. To send Moenyegheré some coffee and tell
his wishes to Masudi.
_27th December, 1871._--Left Ujiji 9 A.M., and crossed goats, donkeys,
and men over Luiché. Sleep at the Malagarasi.
_29th December, 1871._--Crossed over the broad bay of the Malagarasi to
Kagonga and sleep.
_30th December, 1871._--Pass Viga Point, red sandstone, and cross the
bay of the River Lugufu and Nkala village, and transport the people and
goats: sleep.
_31st December, 1871._--Send for beans, as there are no provisions in
front of this. Brown water of the Lugufu bent away north: the high wind
is S.W. and W. Having provisions we went round Munkalu Point. The water
is slightly discoloured for a mile south of it, but brown water is seen
on the north side of bay bent north by a current.
_1st January, 1872._--May the Almighty help me to finish my work this
year for Christ's sake! We slept in Mosehezi Bay. I was storm-stayed in
Kifwé Bay, which is very beautiful--still as a millpond. We found 12 or
13 hippopotami near a high bank, but did not kill any, for our balls are
not hardened. It is high rocky tree-covered shore, with rocks bent and
twisted wonderfully; large slices are worn off the land with hillsides
clad with robes of living green, yet very, very steep.
_2nd January, 1872._--A very broad Belt of large tussocks of reeds lines
the shore near Mount Kibanga or Boumba. We had to coast along to the
south. Saw a village nearly afloat, the people having there taken refuge
from their enemies. There are many hippopotami and crocodiles in
Tanganyika. A river 30 yards wide, the Kibanga, flows in strongly. We
encamped on an open space on a knoll and put up flags to guide our land
party to us.
_3rd January, 1872._--We send off to buy food. Mr. Stanley shot a fat
zebra, its meat was very good.
_4th January, 1872._--The Ujijians left last night with their canoes. I
gave them 14 fundos of beads to buy food on the way. We are now waiting
for our land party. I gave headmen here at Burimba 2 dotis and a
Kitamba. Men arrived yesterday or 4-1/2 days from the Lugufu.
_5th January, 1872._--Mr. Stanley is ill of fever. I am engaged in
copying notes into my journal. All men and goats arrived safely.
_6th January, 1872._--Mr. Stanley better, and we prepare to go.
_7th January, 1872._--Mr. Stanley shot a buffalo at the end of our first
march up. East and across the hills. The River Luajeré is in front. We
spend the night at the carcase of the buffalo.
_8th January, 1872._--We crossed the river, which is 30 yards wide and
rapid. It is now knee and waist deep. The country is rich and beautiful,
hilly and tree-covered, reddish soil, and game abundant.
_9th January, 1872._--Rainy, but we went on E. and N.N.E. through a
shut-in valley to an opening full of all kinds of game. Buffalo cows
have calves now: one was wounded. Rain came down abundantly.
_10th January, 1872._--Across a very lovely green country of open forest
all fresh, and like an English gentleman's park. Game plentiful.
Tree-covered mountains right and left, and much brown hæmatite on the
levels. Course E. A range of mountains appears about three miles off on
our right.
_11th January, 1872._--Off through open forest for three hours east,
then cook, and go on east another three hours, over very rough rocky,
hilly country. River Mtambahu.
_12th January, 1872._--Off early, and pouring rain came down; as we
advance the country is undulating. We cross a rivulet 15 yards wide
going north, and at another of 3 yards came to a halt; all wet and
uncomfortable.
The people pick up many mushrooms and manendinga roots, like turnips.
There are buffaloes near us in great numbers.
_13th January, 1872._--Fine morning. Went through an undulating hilly
country clothed with upland trees for three hours, then breakfast in an
open glade, with bottom of rocks of brown hæmatite, and a hole with
rain-water in it. We are over 1000 feet higher than Tanganyika. It
became cloudy, and we finished our march in a pouring rain, at a rivulet
thickly clad with aquatic trees on banks. Course E.S.E.
_14th January, 1872._--Another fine morning, but miserably wet
afternoon. We went almost 4' E.S.E., and crossed a strong rivulet 8 or
10 yards wide: then on and up to a ridge and along the top of it, going
about south. We had breakfast on the edge of the plateau, looking down
into a broad lovely valley. We now descended, and saw many reddish
monkeys, which made a loud outcry: there was much game, but scattered,
and we got none. Miserably wet crossing another stream, then up a valley
to see a deserted Boma or fenced village.
_15th January, 1872._--Along a valley with high mountains on each hand,
then up over that range on our left or south. At the top some lions
roared. We then went on on high land, and saw many hartebeests and
zebra, but did not get one, though a buffalo was knocked over. We
crossed a rivulet, and away over beautiful and undulating hills and
vales, covered with many trees and jambros fruit. Sleep at a running
rill.
_16th January, 1872._--A very cold night after long-continued and heavy
rain. Our camp was among brakens. Went E. and by S. along the high land,
then we saw a village down in a deep valley into which we descended.
Then up another ridge in a valley and along to a village well
cultivated--up again 700 feet at least, and down to Meréra's village,
hid in a mountainous nook, about 140 huts with doors on one side. The
valleys present a lovely scene of industry, all the people being eagerly
engaged in weeding and hoeing to take advantage of the abundant rains
which have drenched us every afternoon.
_17th January, 1872._--We remain at Meréra's to buy food for our men
and ourselves.
_18th January, 1872._--March, but the Mirongosi wandered and led us
round about instead of S.S.E. We came near some tree-covered hills, and
a river Monya Mazi--Mtamba River in front. I have very sore feet from
bad shoes.
_19th January, 1872._--Went about S.E. for four hours, and crossed the
Mbamba River and passed through open forest. There is a large rock in
the river, and hills thickly tree-covered, 2' East and West, down a
steep descent and camp. Came down River Mpokwa over rough country with
sore feet, to ruins of a village Basivira and sleep. _21st._--Rest.
_22nd._--Rest. Mr. Stanley shot two zebras yesterday, and a she giraffe
to-day, the meat of the giraffe was 1000 lbs. weight, the two zebras
about 800 lbs.
_23rd January, 1872._--Rest. Mr. Stanley has fever. _24th._--Ditto.
_25th_.--Stanley ill. _26th_.--Stanley better and off.
_26th January, 1872._--Through low hills N.E. and among bamboos to open
forest--on in undulating bushy tract to a river with two rounded hills
east, one having three mushroom-shaped trees on it.
_27th January, 1872._--On across long land waves and the only bamboos
east of Mpokwa Rill to breakfast. In going on a swarm of bees attacked a
donkey Mr. Stanley bought for me, and instead of galloping off, as did
the other, the fool of a beast rolled down, and over and over. I did the
same, then ran, dashed into a bush like an ostrich pursued, then ran
whisking a bush round my head. They gave me a sore head and face, before
I got rid of the angry insects: I never saw men attacked before: the
donkey was completely knocked up by the stings on head, face, and lips,
and died in two days, in consequence. We slept in the stockade of
Misonghi.
_28th January, 1872._--We crossed the river and then away E. to near a
hill. Crossed two rivers, broad and marshy, and deep with elephants
plunging. Rain almost daily, but less in amount now. Bombay says his
greatest desire is to visit Speke's grave ere he dies: he has a square
head with the top depressed in the centre.
_29th January, 1872._--We ascended a ridge, the edge of a flat basin
with ledges of dark brown sandstone, the brim of ponds in which were
deposited great masses of brown hæmatite, disintegrated into gravel,
flat open forest with short grass. We crossed a rill of light-coloured
water three times and reached a village. After this in 1-1/2 hour we
came to Meréra's.
_30th January, 1872._--At Meréra's, the second of the name. Much rain
and very heavy; food abundant. Baniayamwezi and Yukonongo people here.
_31st January, 1872._--Through scraggy bush, then open forest with short
grass, over a broad rill and on good path to village Mwaro; chief
Kamirambo.
_1st February, 1872._--We met a caravan of Syde bin Habib's people
yesterday who reported that Mirambo has offered to repay all the goods
he has robbed the Arabs of, all the ivory, powder, blood, &c., but his
offer was rejected. The country all around is devastated, and Arab force
is at Simba's. Mr. Stanley's man Shaw is dead. There is very great
mortality by small-pox amongst the Arabs and at the coast. We went over
flat upland forest, open and bushy, then down a deep descent and along
N.E. to a large tree at a deserted stockade.
_2nd February, 1872._--Away over ridges of cultivation and elephant's
footsteps. Cultivators all swept away by Basavira. Very many elephants
feed here. We lost our trail and sent men to seek it, then came to the
camp in the forest. Lunched at rill running into Ngombé Nullah.
Ukamba is the name of the Tsetse fly here.
_3rd February, 1872._--Mr. Stanley has severe fever, with great pains in
the back and loins: an emetic helped him a little, but resin of jalap
would have cured him quickly. Rainy all day.
_4th February, 1872._--Mr. Stanley so ill that we carried him in a cot
across flat forest and land covered with short grass for three hours,
about north-east, and at last found a path, which was a great help. As
soon as the men got under cover continued rains began. There is a camp
of Malongwana here.
_5th February, 1872._--Off at 6 A.M. Mr. Stanley a little better, but
still carried across same level forest; we pass water in pools, and one
in hæmatite. Saw a black rhinoceros, and come near people.
_6th February, 1872._--Drizzly morning, but we went on, and in two hours
got drenched with cold N.W. rain: the paths full of water we splashed
along to our camp in a wood. Met a party of native traders going to
Mwara.
_7th February, 1872._--Along level plains, and clumps of forest, and
hollows filled at present with water, about N.E., to a large pool of
Ngombé Nullah. Send off two men to Unyanyembé for letters and medicine.
_8th February, 1872._--Removed from the large pool of the nullah, about
an hour north, to where game abounds. Saw giraffes and zebras on our
way. The nullah is covered with lotus-plants, and swarms with
crocodiles.
_9th February, 1872._--Remained for game, but we were unsuccessful. An
eland was shot by Mr. Stanley, but it was lost. Departed at 2 P.M., and
reached Manyara, a kind old chief. The country is flat, and covered with
detached masses of forest, with open glades and flats.
_10th February, 1872._--Leave Manyara and pass along the same park-like
country, with but little water. The rain sinks into the sandy soil at
once, and the collection is seldom seen. After a hard tramp we came to a
pool by a sycamore-tree, 28 feet 9 inches in circumference, with broad
fruit-laden branches. Ziwané.
_11th February, 1872._--Rain nearly all night. Scarcely a day has
passed without rain and thunder since we left Tanganyika Across a flat
forest again, meeting a caravan for Ujiji. The grass is three feet high,
and in seed. Reach Chikuru, a stockaded village, with dura plantations
around it and pools of rain-water.
_12th February, 1872._--Rest.
_13th February, 1872._--Leave Chikuru, and wade across an open flat with
much standing-water. They plant rice on the wet land round the villages.
Our path lies through an open forest, where many trees are killed for
the sake of the bark, which is used as cloth, and for roofing and beds.
Mr. Stanley has severe fever.
_14th February, 1872._--Across the same flat open forest, with scraggy
trees and grass three feet long in tufts. Came to a Boma. N.E. Gunda.
_15th February, 1872._--Over the same kind of country, where the water
was stagnant, to camp in the forest.
_16th February, 1872._--Camp near Kigando, in a rolling country with
granite knolls.
_17th February, 1872._--Over a country, chiefly level, with stagnant
water; rounded hills were seen. Cross a rain torrent and encamp in a new
Boma, Magonda.
_18th February, 1872._--Go through low tree-covered hills of granite,
with blocks of rock sticking out: much land cultivated, and many
villages. The country now opens out and we come to the Tembé,[16] in the
midst of many straggling villages. Unyanyembé. Thanks to the Almighty.
FOOTNOTES:
[14] The reader will best judge of the success of the experiment by
looking at a specimen of the writing. An old sheet of the _Standard_
newspaper, made into rough copy-books, sufficed for paper in the
absence of all other material, and by writing across the print no
doubt the notes were tolerably legible at the time. The colour of the
decoction used instead of ink has faded so much that if Dr.
Livingstone's handwriting had not at all times been beautifully clear
and distinct it would have been impossible to decipher this part of
his diary.--Ed.
[15] Thus the question of the Lusizé was settled at once: the previous
notion of its outflow to the north proved a myth.--ED.
[16] Tembé, a flat-roofed Arab house.