Chapter II

My Bonny Lies over the Ocean--Lies and Lies and Lies

Of course, we had a bridal couple and a troupe of professional deep-sea

fishermen aboard. We just naturally had to have them. Without them, I

doubt whether the ship could have sailed. The bridal couple were

from somewhere in the central part of Ohio and they were taking their

honeymoon tour; but, if I were a bridal couple from the central part

of Ohio and had never been to sea before, as was the case in this

particular instance, I should take my honeymoon ashore and keep it

there. I most certainly should! This couple of ours came aboard billing

and cooing to beat the lovebirds. They made it plain to all that they

had just been married and were proud of it. Their baggage was brand-new,

and the groom's shoes were shiny with that pristine shininess

which, once destroyed, can never be restored; and the bride wore her

going-and-giving-away outfit.

Just prior to sailing and on the morning after they were all over the

ship. Everywhere you went you seemed to meet them and they were always

wrestling. You entered a quiet side passage--there they were, exchanging

a kiss--one of the long-drawn, deep-siphoned, sirupy kind. You stepped

into the writing room thinking to find it deserted, and at sight of you

they broke grips and sprang apart, eyeing you like a pair of startled

fawns surprised by the cruel huntsman in a forest glade. At all other

times, though, they had eyes but for each other.

A day came, however--and it was the second day out--when they were among

the missing. For two days and two nights, while the good ship floundered

on the tempestuous bosom of the overwrought ocean, they were gone from

human ken. On the afternoon of the third day, the sea being calmer now,

but still sufficiently rough to satisfy the most exacting, a few hardy

and convalescent souls sat in a shawl-wrapped row on the lee side of the

ship.

There came two stewards, bearing with them pillows and blankets and

rugs. These articles were disposed to advantage in two steamer chairs.

Then the stewards hurried away; but presently they reappeared, dragging

the limp and dangling forms of the bridal couple from the central part

of Ohio. But oh, my countrymen, what a spectacle! And what a change from

what had been!

The going-away gown was wrinkled, as though worn for a period of time

by one suddenly and sorely stricken in the midst of health. The bride's

once well-coifed hair hung in lank disarray about a face that was the

color of prime old sage cheese--yellow, with a fleck of green here and

there--and in her wan and rolling eye was the hunted look of one who

hears something unpleasant stirring a long way off and fears it is

coming this way.

Side by side the stewards stretched them prone on their chairs and

tucked them in. Her face was turned from him. For some time both of

them lay there without visible signs of life--just two muffled,

misery-stricken heaps. Then, slowly and languidly, the youth stretched

forth an arm from his wrappings and fingered the swaddling folds that

enveloped the form of his beloved.

It may have been he thought it was about time to begin picking the

coverlid, or it may have been the promptings of reawakened romance, once

more feebly astir within his bosom. At any rate, gently and softly, his

hand fell on the rug about where her shoulder ought to be. She still had

life enough left in her to shake it off--and she did. Hurt, he waited

a moment, then caressed her again. "Stop that!" she cried in a low but

venomous tone. "Don't you dare touch me!"

So he touched her no more, but only lay there mute and motionless;

and from his look one might plumb the sorrows of his soul and know how

shocked he was, and how grieved and heartstricken! Love's young dream

was o'er! He had thought she loved him, but now he knew better. Their

marriage had been a terrible mistake and he would give her back her

freedom; he would give it back to her as soon as he was able to sit up.

Thus one interpreted his expression.

On the day we landed, however, they were seen again. We were nosing

northward through a dimpled duckpond of a sea, with the Welsh coast on

one side and Ireland just over the way. People who had not been seen

during the voyage came up to breathe, wearing the air of persons who had

just returned from the valley of the shadow and were mighty glad to be

back; and with those others came our bridal couple.

I inadvertently stumbled on them in an obscure companionway. Their

cheeks again wore the bloom of youth and health, and they were in a

tight clinch; it was indeed a pretty sight. Love had returned on roseate

pinions and the honeymoon had been resumed at the point where postponed

on account of bad weather.

They had not been seasick, though. I heard them say so. They had been

indisposed, possibly from something they had eaten; but they had not

been seasick. Well, I had my own periods of indisposition going over;

and if it had been seasickness I should not hesitate a moment about

coming right out and saying so. In these matters I believe in being

absolutely frank and aboveboard. For the life of me I cannot understand

why people will dissemble and lie about this thing of being seasick. To

me their attitude is a source of constant wonderment.

On land the average person is reasonably proud of having been

sick--after he begins to get better. It gives him something to talk

about. The pale and interesting invalid invariably commands respect

ashore. In my own list of acquaintances I number several persons--mainly

widowed ladies with satisfactory incomes--who never feel well unless

they are ill. In the old days they would have had resort to patent

medicines and the family lot at Laurel Grove Cemetery; but now they

go in for rest cures and sea voyages, and the baths at Carlsbad and

specialists, these same being main contributing causes to the present

high cost of living, and also helping to explain what becomes of some

of those large life-insurance policies you read about. Possibly you know

the type I am describing--the lady who, when planning where she will

spend the summer, sends for catalogues from all the leading sanatoriums.

We had one such person with us.

She had been surgically remodeled so many times that she dated

everything from her last operation. At least six times in her life she

had been down with something that was absolutely incurable, and she was

now going to Homburg to have one of the newest and most fatal German

diseases in its native haunts, where it would be at its best. She

herself said that she was but a mere shell; and for the first few meals

she ate like one--like a large, empty shell with plenty of curves inside

it.

However, when, after a subsequent period of seclusion, she emerged from

her stateroom wearing the same disheveled look that Jonah must have worn

when he and the whale parted company, do you think she would confess

she had been seasick? Not by any means! She said she had had a raging

headache. But she could not fool me. She had the stateroom next to mine

and I had heard what I had heard. She was from near Boston and she had

the near-Boston accent; and she was the only person I ever met who was

seasick with the broad A.

Personally I abhor those evasions, which deceive no one. If I had been

seasick I should not deny it here or elsewhere. For a time I thought

I was seasick. I know now I was wrong--but I thought so. There was

something about the sardels served at lunch--their look or their smell

or something--which seemed to make them distasteful to me; and I excused

myself from the company at the table and went up and out into the

open air. But the deck was unpleasantly congested with great burly

brutes--beefy, carnivorous, overfed creatures, gorged with victuals and

smoking disgustingly strong black cigars, and grinning in an annoying

and meaning sort of way every time they passed a body who preferred to

lie quiet.

The rail was also moving up and down in a manner that was annoying and

wearisome for the eye to watch--first tipping up and up and up until

half the sky was hidden, then dipping down and down and down until the

gray and heaving sea seemed ready to leap over the side and engulf us.

So I decided to go below and jot down a few notes. On arriving at my

quarters I changed my mind again. I decided to let the notes wait a

while and turn in.

It is my usual custom when turning in to remove the left shoe as well as

the right one and to put on my pajamas; but the pajamas were hanging

on a hook away over on the opposite side of the stateroom, which had

suddenly grown large and wide and full of great distances; and besides,

I thought it was just as well to have the left shoe where I could put

my hand on it when I needed it again. So I retired practically just as

I was and endeavored, as per the admonitions of certain friends, to lie

perfectly flat. No doubt this thing of lying flat is all very well for

some people--but suppose a fellow has not that kind of a figure?

Nevertheless, I tried. I lay as flat as I could, but the indisposition

persisted; in fact, it increased materially. The manner in which my

pajamas, limp and pendent from that hook, swayed and swung back and

forth became extremely distasteful to me; and if by mental treatment I

could have removed them from there I should assuredly have done so. But

that was impossible.

Along toward evening I began to think of food. I thought of it not from

its gastronomic aspect, but rather in the capacity of ballast. I did

not so much desire the taste of it as the feel of it. So I summoned

Lubly--he, at least, did not smile at me in that patronizing,

significant way--and ordered a dinner that included nearly everything

on the dinner card except Lubly's thumb. The dinner was brought to me in

relays and I ate it--ate it all! This step I know now was ill-advised.

It is true that for a short time I felt as I imagine a python in a zoo

feels when he is full of guinea-pigs--sort of gorged, you know, and

sluggish, and only tolerably uncomfortable.

Then ensued the frightful denouement. It ensued almost without warning.

At the time I felt absolutely positive that I was seasick. I would have

sworn to it. If somebody had put a Bible on my chest and held it there

I would cheerfully have laid my right hand on it and taken a solemn

oath that I was seasick. Indeed, I believed I was so seasick that I

feared--hoped, rather--I might never recover from it. All I desired at

the moment was to get it over with as quickly and as neatly as possible.

As in the case of drowning persons, there passed in review before my

eyes several of the more recent events of my past life--meals mostly.

I shall, however, pass hastily over these distressing details, merely

stating in parentheses, so to speak, that I did not remember those

string-beans at all. I was positive then, and am yet, that I had not

eaten string-beans for nearly a week. But enough of this!

I was sure I was seasick; and I am convinced any inexperienced

bystander, had there been one there, would have been misled by my

demeanor into regarding me as a seasick person--but it was a wrong

diagnosis. The steward told me so himself when he called the next

morning. He came and found me stretched prone on the bed of affliction;

and he asked me how I felt, to which I replied with a low and hollow

groan--tolerably low and exceedingly hollow. It could not have been any

hollower if I had been a megaphone.

So he looked me over and told me that I had climate fever. We were

passing through the Gulf Stream, where the water was warmer than

elsewhere in the Atlantic Ocean, and I had a touch of climate fever. It

was a very common complaint in that latitude; many persons suffered

from it. The symptoms were akin to seasickness, it was true; yet the two

maladies were in no way to be confused. As soon as we passed out of the

Gulf Stream he felt sure I would be perfectly well. Meantime he would

recommend that I get Lubly to take the rest of my things off and then

remain perfectly quiet. He was right about it too.

Regardless of what one may think oneself, one is bound to accept the

statement of an authority on this subject; and if a steward on a big

liner, who has traveled back and forth across the ocean for years, is

not an authority on climate fever, who is? I looked at it in that light.

And sure enough, when we had passed out of the Gulf Stream and the sea

had smoothed itself out, I made a speedy and satisfactory recovery; but

if it had been seasickness I should have confessed it in a minute. I

have no patience with those who quibble and equivocate in regard to

their having been seasick.

I had one relapse--a short one, but painful. In an incautious moment,

when I wist not wot I wotted, I accepted an invitation from the chief

engineer to go below. We went below--miles and miles, I think--to where,

standing on metal runways that were hot to the foot, overalled Scots

ministered to the heart and the lungs and the bowels of that ship.

Electricity spat cracklingly in our faces, and at our sides steel shafts

as big as the pillars of a temple spun in coatings of spumy grease; and

through the double skin of her we could hear, over our heads, a mighty

Niagaralike churning as the slew-footed screws kicked us forward

twenty-odd knots an hour. Someone raised the cover of a vat, and peering

down into the opening we saw a small, vicious engine hard at work,

entirely enveloped in twisty, coily, stewy depths of black oil, like a

devil-fish writhing in sea-ooze and cuttle-juice.

So then we descended another mile or two to an inferno, full of naked,

sooty devils forever feeding sulphurous pitfires in the nethermost

parlors of the damned; but they said this was the stokehole; and I was

in no condition to argue with them, for I had suddenly begun to realize

that I was far from being a well person. As one peering through a glass

darkly, I saw one of the attendant demons sluice his blistered bare

breast with cold water, so that the sweat and grime ran from him in

streams like ink; and peering in at a furnace door I saw a great angry

sore of coals all scabbed and crusted over. Then another demon, wielding

a nine-foot bar daintily as a surgeon wields a scalpel, reached in and

stabbed it in the center, so that the fire burst through and gushed up

red and rich, like blood from a wound newly lanced.

I had seen enough and to spare; but my guide brought me back by way of

the steerage, in order that I might know how the other half lives.

There was nothing here, either of smell or sight, to upset the human

stomach--third class is better fed and better quartered now on those big

ships than first class was in those good old early days--but I had

held in as long as I could and now I relapsed. I relapsed in a vigorous

manner--a whole-souled, boisterous manner. People halfway up the

deck heard me relapsing, and I will warrant some of them were fooled

too--they thought I was seasick.

It was due to my attack of climate fever that I missed the most exciting

thing which happened on the voyage. I refer to the incident of the

professional gamblers and the youth from Jersey City. From the very

first there was one passenger who had been picked out by all the knowing

passengers as a professional gambler; for he was the very spit-and-image

of a professional gambler as we have learned to know him in story books.

Did he not dress in plain black, without any jewelry? He certainly did.

Did he not have those long, slender, flexible fingers? Such was,

indeed, the correct description of those fingers. Was not his eye a keen

steely-blue eye that seemed to have the power of looking right through

you? Steely-blue was the right word, all right. Well, then, what more

could you ask?

Behind his back sinister yet fascinating rumors circulated. He was the

brilliant but unscrupulous scion of a haughty house in England. He had

taken a first degree at Oxford, over there, and the third one at police

headquarters, over here. Women simply could not resist him. Let him make

up his mind to win a woman and she was a gone gosling. His picture

was to be found in rogues' galleries and ladies' lockets. And sh-h-h!

Listen! Everybody knew he was the identical crook who, disguised in

woman's clothes, escaped in the last lifeboat that left the sinking

Titanic. Who said so? Why--er--everybody said so!

It came as a grievous disappointment to all when we found out the truth,

which was that he was the booking agent for a lyceum bureau, going

abroad to sign up some foreign talent for next season's Chautauquas;

and the only gambling he had ever done was on the chance of whether

the Tyrolian Yodelers would draw better than our esteemed secretary of

state--or vice versa.

Meantime the real professionals had established themselves cozily and

comfortably aboard, had rigged the trap and cheese-baited it, and were

waiting for the coming of one of the class that is born so numerously in

this country. If you should be traveling this year on one of the

large trans-Atlantic ships, and there should come aboard two young

well-dressed men and shortly afterward a middle-aged well-dressed man

with a flat nose, who was apparently a stranger to the first two; and if

on the second night out in the smoking room, while the pool on the next

day's run was being auctioned, one of the younger men, whom we will call

Mr. Y, should appear to be slightly under the influence of malt, vinous

or spirituous liquors--or all three of them at once--and should, without

seeming provocation, insist on picking a quarrel with the middle-aged

stranger, whom we will call Mr. Z; and if further along in the voyage

Mr. Z should introduce himself to you and suggest a little game of

auction bridge for small stakes in order to while away the tedium of

travel; and if it should so fall out that Mr. Y and his friend Mr.

X chanced to be the only available candidates for a foursome at this

fascinating pursuit; and if Mr. Z, being still hostile toward the

sobered and repentant Mr. Y, should decline to take on either Mr. Y or

his friend X as a partner, but chose you instead; and if on the second

or third deal you picked up your cards and found you had an apparently

unbeatable hand and should bid accordingly; and Mr. X should double you;

and Mr. Z, sitting across from you should come gallantly right back and

redouble it; and Mr. Y, catching the spirit of the moment, should double

again--and so on and so forth until each point, instead of being worth

only a paltry cent or two, had accumulated a value of a good many

cents--if all these things or most of them should befall in the order

enumerated--why, then, if I were you, gentle reader, I would have a

care. And I should leave that game and go somewhere else to have it

too--lest a worse thing befall you as it befell the guileless young

Jerseyman on our ship. After he had paid out a considerable sum on being

beaten--by just one card--upon the playing of his seemingly unbeatable

hand and after the haunting and elusive odor of eau de rodent had become

plainly perceptible all over the ship, he began, as the saying goes, to

smell a rat himself, and straightway declined to make good his remaining

losses, amounting to quite a tidy amount. Following this there were high

words, meaning by that low ones, and accusations and recriminations, and

at eventide when the sunset was a welter of purple and gold, there was

a sudden smashing of glassware in the smoking room and a flurry of arms

and legs in a far corner, and a couple of pained stewards scurrying

about saying, "Ow, now, don't do that, sir, if you please, sir, thank

you, sir!" And one of the belligerents came forth from the melee wearing

a lavender eye with saffron trimmings, as though to match the sunset,

and the other with a set of skinned knuckles, emblematic of the skinning

operations previously undertaken. And through all the ship ran the

hissing tongues of scandal and gossip.

Out of wild rumor and cross-rumor, certain salient facts were eventually

precipitated like sediment from a clouded solution. It seemed that the

engaging Messrs. X, Y and Z had been induced, practically under false

pretenses to book passage, they having read in the public prints that

the prodigal and card-foolish son of a cheese-paring millionaire father

meant to take the ship too; but he had grievously disappointed them

by not coming aboard at all. Then, when in an effort to make their

traveling expenses back, they uncorked their newest trick and device

for inspiring confidence in gudgeons, the particular gudgeon of their

choosing had refused to pay up. Naturally they were fretful and peevish

in the extreme. It spoiled the whole trip for them.

Except for this one small affair it was, on the whole, a pleasant

voyage. We had only one storm and one ship's concert, and at the finish

most of us were strong enough to have stood another storm. And the trip

had been worth a lot to us--at least it had been worth a lot to me,

for I had crossed the ocean on one of the biggest hotels afloat. I had

amassed quite a lot of nautical terms that would come in very handy for

stunning the folks at home when I got back. I had had my first thrill at

the sight of foreign shores. And just by casual contact with members

of the British aristocracy, I had acquired such a heavy load of true

British hauteur that in parting on the landing dock I merely bowed

distantly toward those of my fellow Americans to whom I had not been

introduced; and they, having contracted the same disease, bowed back in

the same haughty and distant manner.

When some of us met again, however, in Vienna, the insulation had been

entirely rubbed off and we rushed madly into one another's arms and

exchanged names and addresses; and, babbling feverishly the while, we

told one another what our favorite flower was, and our birthstone and

our grandmother's maiden name, and what we thought of a race of

people who regarded a cup of ostensible coffee and a dab of honey

as constituting a man's-size breakfast. And, being pretty tolerably

homesick by that time, we leaned in toward a common center and gave

three loud, vehement cheers for the land of the country sausage and the

home of the buckwheat cake--and, as giants refreshed, went on our ways

rejoicing.

That, though, was to come later. At present we are concerned with the

trip over and what we had severally learned from it. I personally had

learned, among other things, that the Atlantic Ocean, considered as

such, is a considerably overrated body. Having been across it, even on

so big and fine and well-ordered a ship as this ship was, the ocean, it

seemed to me, was not at all what it had been cracked up to be.

During the first day out it is a novelty and after that a

monotony--except when it is rough; and then it is a doggoned nuisance.

Poets without end have written of the sea, but I take it they stayed at

home to do their writing. They were not on the bounding billow when they

praised it; if they had been they might have decorated the billow, but

they would never have praised it.

As the old song so happily put it: My Bonny Lies Over the Ocean! And a

lot of others have lied over it too; but I will not--at least not just

yet. Perhaps later on I may feel moved to do so; but at this moment I

am but newly landed from it and my heart is full of rankling resentment

toward the ocean and all its works.

I speak but a sober conviction when I say that the chief advantage to

be derived from taking an ocean voyage is not that you took it, but that

you have it to talk about afterward. And, to my mind, the most

inspiring sight to be witnessed on a trip across the Atlantic is the

Battery--viewed from the ocean side, coming back.

Do I hear any seconds to that motion?

Europe Revised · 第 2 / 25 章