When I told Mr. Johnson that a certain authour affected in conversation

to maintain, that there was no distinction between virtue and vice, he

said, "Why Sir, if the fellow does not think as he speaks, he is lying;

and I see not what honour he can propose to himself from having the

character of a lyar. But if he does really think that there is no

distinction between virtue and vice, why Sir, when he leaves our houses

let us count our spoons."[126]

[Footnote 126: See Boswell's "Johnson." Date of July 14th, 1763.--ED.]

Of modern infidels and innovatours, he said, "Sir, these are all vain

men, and will gratify themselves at any expence. Truth will not afford

sufficient food to their vanity; so they have betaken themselves to

errour. Truth Sir, is a cow which will yield such people no more milk,

and so they are gone to milk the bull."[127]

[Footnote 127: See Boswell's "Johnson." Date of July 20th, 1763.--ED.]

I felt an elation of mind to see Paoli delighted with the sayings of Mr.

Johnson, and to hear him translate them with Italian energy to the

Corsican heroes.

I repeated Mr. Johnson's sayings as nearly as I could, in his own

peculiar forcible language,[128] for which, prejudiced or little

criticks have taken upon them to find fault with him. He is above making

any answer to them, but I have found a sufficient answer in a general

remark in one of his excellent papers. "Difference of thoughts will

produce difference of language. He that thinks with more extent than

another, will want words of larger meaning."[129]

[Footnote 128: "Lord Pembroke said once to me at Wilton, with a happy

pleasantry and some truth, that Dr. Johnson's sayings would not appear

so extraordinary were it not for his _bow-wow-way_."--Boswell's "Journal

of a Tour to the Hebrides," page 7.--ED.]

[Footnote 129: "Idler," number 70.]

I hope to be pardoned for this digression, wherein I pay a just tribute

of veneration and gratitude to one from whose writings and conversation

I have received instructions of which I experience the value in every

scene of my life.

During Paoli's administration there have been few laws made in Corsica.

He mentioned one which he has found very efficacious in curbing that

vindictive spirit of the Corsicans, of which I have said a good deal in

a former part of this work. There was among the Corsicans a most

dreadful species of revenge, called "Vendetta trasversa, Collateral

revenge," which Petrus Cyrnaeus candidly acknowledges. It was this. If a

man had received an injury, and could not find a proper opportunity to

be revenged on his enemy personally, he revenged himself on one of his

enemy's relations. So barbarous a practice, was the source of

innumerable assassinations. Paoli knowing that the point of honour was

every thing to the Corsicans, opposed it to the progress of the blackest

of crimes, fortified by long habits. He made a law, by which it was

provided, that this collateral revenge should not only be punished with

death, as ordinary murther, but the memory of the offender should be

disgraced for ever by a pillar of infamy. He also had it enacted that

the same statute should extend to the violatours of an oath of

reconciliation, once made.

By thus combating a vice so destructive, he has, by a kind of shock of

opposite passions, reduced the fiery Corsicans to a state of mildness,

and he assured me that they were now all fully sensible of the equity of

that law.

While I was at Sollacarò information was received that the poor wretch

who strangled the woman at the instigation of his mistress had consented

to accept of his life, upon condition of becoming hangman. This made a

great noise among the Corsicans, who were enraged at the creature, and

said their nation was now disgraced. Paoli did not think so. He said to

me, "I am glad of this. It will be of service. It will contribute to

form us to a just subordination.[130] We have as yet too great an

equality among us. As we must have Corsican taylours and Corsican

shoemakers, we must also have a Corsican hangman."

[Footnote 130: "'Sir,' said Johnson, 'I am a friend to subordination, as

most conducive to the happiness of society.'"--Boswell's "Johnson." Date

of June 13, 1763.--ED.]

I could not help being of a different opinion. The occupations of a

taylour and a shoemaker, though mean, are not odious. When I afterwards

met M. Rousseau in England, and made him a report of my Corsican

expedition, he agreed with me in thinking that it would be something

noble for the brave islanders to be able to say that there was not a

Corsican but who would rather suffer death than become a hangman; and he

also agreed with me, that it might have a good effect to have always a

Genoese for the hangman of Corsica.

I must, however, do the Genoese the justice to observe that Paoli told

me, that even one of them had suffered death in Corsica, rather than

consent to become hangman. When I, with a keenness natural enough in a

Briton born with an abhorrence at tyranny, talked with violence against

the Genoese, Paoli said with a moderation and candour which ought to do

him honour even with the republick, "It is true the Genoese are our

enemies; but let us not forget that they are the descendants of those

worthies who carried their arms beyond the Hellespont."

There is one circumstance in Paoli's character which I present to my

readers with caution, knowing how much it may be ridiculed in an age

when mankind are so fond of incredulity, that they seem to pique

themselves in contracting their circle of belief as much as possible.

But I consider this infidel rage as but a temporary mode of the human

understanding, and am well persuaded that e'er long we shall return to a

more calm philosophy.

I own I cannot help thinking that though we may boast some improvements

in science, and in short, superior degrees of knowledge in things where

our faculties can fully reach, yet we should not assume to ourselves

sounder judgements than those of our fathers; I will therefore venture

to relate that Paoli has at times extraordinary impressions of distant

and future events.

The way in which I discovered it was this: Being very desirous of

studying so exalted a character, I so far presumed upon his goodness to

me, as to take the liberty of asking him a thousand questions with

regard to the most minute and private circumstances of his life. Having

asked him one day when some of his nobles were present, whether a mind

so active as his was employed even in sleep, and if he used to dream

much, Signor Casa Bianca said, with an air and tone which implied

something of importance, "Sì, si sogna. Yes, he dreams." And upon my

asking him to explain his meaning, he told me that the General had often

seen in his dreams, what afterwards came to pass. Paoli confirmed this

by several instances. Said he, "I can give you no clear explanation of

it. I only tell you facts. Sometimes I have been mistaken, but in

general these visions have proved true. I cannot say what may be the

agency of invisible spirits. They certainly must know more than we do;

and there is nothing absurd in supposing that GOD should permit them to

communicate their knowledge to us."

He went into a most curious and pleasing disquisition on a subject,

which the late ingenious Mr. Baxter has treated in a very philosophical

manner, in his "Inquiry into the Nature of the Human Soul;"[131] a book

which may be read with as much delight, and surely with more advantage

than the works of those who endeavour to destroy our belief. Belief is

favourable to the human mind, were it for nothing else but to furnish it

entertainment. An infidel I should think must frequently suffer from

ennui.

[Footnote 131: Published in October, 1733. "The author is said to be one

Baxter."--"Gentleman's Magazine" for 1750, vol. xx.--ED.]

It was perhaps affectation in Socrates to say, that all he had learned

to know was that he knew nothing. But surely it is a mark of wisdom, to

be sensible of the limited extent of human knowledge, to examine with

reverence the ways of GOD, nor presumptuously reject any opinion which

has been held by the judicious and the learned, because it has been made

a cloak for artifice, or had a variety of fictions raised upon it by

credulity.

Old Feltham says, "Every dream is not to be counted of; nor yet are all

to be cast away with contempt. I would neither be a Stoick,

superstitious in all; nor yet an Epicure, considerate of none."[132] And

after observing how much the ancients attended to the interpretation of

dreams, he adds, "Were it not for the power of the gospel in crying down

the vains[133] of men, it would appear a wonder how a science so

pleasing to humanity, should fall so quite to ruin."[134]

[Footnote 132: "Feltham's Resolves," Cent. I., Resol. 52.]

[Footnote 133: He means vanity.]

[Footnote 134: "Feltham's Resolves," Cent. I., Resol. 52.]

The mysterious circumstance in Paoli's character which I have ventured

to relate, is universally believed in Corsica. The inhabitants of that

island, like the Italians, express themselves much by signs. When I

asked one of them if there had been many instances of the General's

foreseeing future events, he grasped a large bunch of his hair, and

replied, "Tante, Signore, So many, Sir."

It may be said that the General has industriously propagated this

opinion, in order that he might have more authority in civilizing a rude

and ferocious people, as Lycurgus pretended to have the sanction of the

oracle at Delphos, as Numa gave it out that he had frequent interviews

with the nymph Egeria, or as Marius persuaded the Romans that he

received divine communications from a hind. But I cannot allow myself to

suppose that Paoli ever required the aid of pious frauds.

Paoli, though never familiar, has the most perfect ease of behaviour.

This is a mark of a real great character. The distance and reserve which

some of our modern nobility affect is, because nobility is now little

else than a name in comparison of what it was in ancient times. In

ancient times, noblemen lived at their country seats, like princes, in

hospitable grandeur. They were men of power, and every one of them could

bring hundreds of followers into the field. They were then open and

affable. Some of our modern nobility are so anxious to preserve an

appearance of dignity which they are sensible cannot bear an

examination, that they are afraid to let you come near them. Paoli is

not so. Those about him come into his apartment at all hours, wake him,

help him on with his clothes, are perfectly free from restraint; yet

they know their distance, and, awed by his real greatness, never lose

their respect for him.

Though thus easy of access, particular care is taken against such

attempts upon the life of the illustrious Chief, as he has good reason

to apprehend from the Genoese, who have so often employed assassination

merely in a political view, and who would gain so much by assassinating

Paoli. A certain number of soldiers are continually on guard upon him;

and as still closer guards, he has some faithful Corsican dogs. Of these

five or six sleep, some in his chamber, and some at the outside of the

chamber-door. He treats them with great kindness, and they are strongly

attached to him. They are extremely sagacious, and know all his friends

and attendants. Were any person to approach the General during the

darkness of the night, they would instantly tear him in pieces.

Having dogs for his attendants, is another circumstance about Paoli

similar to the heroes of antiquity. Homer represents Telemachus so

attended.

[Greek: duô kunes argoi heponto],

--HOMER, "Odyss.," lib. ii., l. 11.

"Two dogs a faithful guard attend behind."

--POPE.

But the description given of the family of Patroclus applies better to

Paoli.

[Greek: Ennea tô ge anakti trapezêes kunes êsan],

--HOMER, "Iliad," lib. xxiii., l. 73.

"Nine large dogs domestick at his board."

--POPE.

Mr. Pope, in his notes on the second book of the "Odyssey," is much

pleased with dogs being introduced, as it furnishes an agreeable

instance of ancient simplicity. He observes that Virgil thought this

circumstance worthy of his imitation, in describing old Evander.[135] So

we read of Syphax, general of the Numidians, "Syphax inter duos canes

stans, Scipionem appellavit.[136] Syphax standing between two dogs

called to Scipio."

[Footnote 135: "Æneid," lib. viii., l. 461.]

[Footnote 136: I mention this on the authority of an excellent scholar,

and one of our best writers, Mr. Joseph Warton, in his notes on the

Aeneid; for I have not been able to find the passage in Livy which he

quotes.]

Talking of courage, he made a very just distinction between

constitutional courage and courage from reflection. "Sir Thomas More,"

said he, "would not probably have mounted a breach so well as a sergeant

who had never thought of death. But a sergeant would not on a scaffold

have shewn the calm resolution of Sir Thomas More."

On this subject he told me a very remarkable anecdote, which happened

during the last war in Italy. At the siege of Tortona, the commander of

the army which lay before the town, ordered Carew an Irish officer in

the service of Naples, to advance with a detachment to a particular

post. Having given his orders, he whispered to Carew, "Sir, I know you

to be a gallant man. I have therefore put you upon this duty. I tell you

in confidence, it is certain death for you all. I place you there to

make the enemy spring a mine below you." Carew made a bow to the

general, and led on his men in silence to the dreadful post. He there

stood with an undaunted countenance, and having called to one of the

soldiers for a draught of wine, "Here," said he, "I drink to all those

who bravely fall in battle." Fortunately at that instant Tortona

capitulated, and Carew escaped. But he had thus a full opportunity of

displaying a rare instance of determined intrepidity. It is with

pleasure that I record an anecdote so much to the honour of a gentleman

of that nation, on which illiberal reflections are too often thrown, by

those of whom it little deserves them. Whatever may be the rough jokes

of wealthy insolence, or the envious sarcasms of needy jealousy, the

Irish have ever been, and will continue to be, highly regarded upon the

continent.

Paoli's personal authority among the Corsicans struck me much. I have

seen a crowd of them, with eagerness and impetuosity, endeavouring to

approach him, as if they would have burst into his apartment by force.

In vain did the guards attempt to restrain them; but when he called to

them in a tone of firmness, "Non c'è ora ricorso, No audience now," they

were hushed at once.

He one afternoon gave us an entertaining dissertation on the ancient art

of war. He observed that the ancients allowed of little baggage, which

they very properly called "impedimenta;" whereas the moderns burthen

themselves with it to such a degree, that 50,000 of our present soldiers

are allowed as much baggage as was formerly thought sufficient for all

the armies of the Roman empire. He said it was good for soldiers to be

heavy armed, as it renders them proportionably robust; and he remarked

that when the Romans lightened their arms the troops became

enfeebled.[137] He made a very curious observation with regard to the

towers full of armed men, which we are told were borne on the backs of

their elephants. He said it must be a mistake; for if the towers were

broad, there would not be room for them on the backs of elephants; for

he and a friend who was an able calculatour, had measured a very large

elephant at Naples, and made a computation of the space necessary to

hold the number of men said to be contained in those towers, and they

found that the back of the broadest elephant would not be sufficient,

after making the fullest allowance for what might be hung by ballance on

either side of the animal. If again the towers were high, they would

fall; for he did not think it at all probable that the Romans had the

art of tying on such monstrous machines at a time when they had not

learnt the use even of girths to their saddles. He said he did not give

too much credit to the figures on Trajan's pillar, many of which were

undoubtedly false. He said it was his opinion, that those towers were

only drawn by the elephants; an opinion founded in probability, and free

from the difficulties of that which has been commonly received.

[Footnote 137: "The enervated soldiers abandoned their own, and the

public defence; and their pusillanimous indolence may be considered as

the immediate cause of the downfall of the empire." Gibbon's "Decline

and Fall," chapter 27.--ED.]

Talking of various schemes of life, fit for a man of spirit and

education; I mentioned to him that of being a foreign minister. He said

he thought it a very agreeable employment for a man of parts and

address, during some years of his life. "In that situation," said he, "a

man will insensibly attain to a greater knowledge of men and manners,

and a more perfect acquaintance with the politicks of Europe. He will be

promoted according to the returns which he makes to his court. They must

be accurate, distinct, without fire or ornament. He may subjoin his own

opinion, but he must do it with great modesty. The ministry at home are

proud."

He said the greatest happiness was not in glory, but in goodness; and

that Penn in his American colony, where he had established a people in

quiet and contentment, was happier than Alexander the Great after

destroying multitudes at the conquest of Thebes. He observed that the

history of Alexander is obscure and dubious; for his captains who

divided his kingdom, were too busy to record his life and actions, and

would at any rate wish to render him odious to posterity.

Never was I so thoroughly sensible of my own defects as while I was in

Corsica. I felt how small were my abilities, and how little I knew.

Ambitious to be the companion of Paoli, and to understand a country and

a people which roused me so much, I wished to be a Sir James

MacDonald.[138]

[Footnote 138: Sir James MacDonald, baronet of the Isle of Sky, who at

the age of one and twenty, had the learning and abilities of a

Professour and a statesman, with the accomplishments of a man of the

world. Eton and Oxford will ever remember him as one of their greatest

ornaments.[B] He was well known to the most distinguished in Europe, but

was carried off from all their expectations. He died at Frescati, near

Rome, in 1765. Had he lived a little longer, I believe I should have

prevailed with him to visit Corsica.]

[Footnote B: Horace Walpole thus describes him in a letter dated

September 30th, 1765:--"He is a very extraordinary young man for variety

of learning. He is rather too wise for his age, and too fond of showing

it; but when he has seen more of the world, he will choose to know

less." See also Boswell's "Johnson." Date of July 20th, 1763.--ED.]

The last day which I spent with Paoli appeared of inestimable value. I

thought him more than usually great and amiable, when I was upon the eve

of parting from him. The night before my departure, a little incident

happened which shewed him in a most agreeable light. When the servants

were bringing in the desert after supper, one of them chanced to let

fall a plate of walnuts. Instead of flying into a passion at what the

man could not help, Paoli said with a smile, "No matter;" and turning to

me, "It is a good sign for you, Sir, Tempus est spargere nuces, It is

time to scatter walnuts. It is a matrimonial omen: You must go home to

your own country, and marry some fine woman whom you really like. I

shall rejoice to hear of it."

This was a pretty allusion to the Roman ceremony at weddings, of

scattering walnuts. So Virgil's "Damon" says--

"Mopse novas incide faces: tibi ducitur uxor.

Sparge marite nuces: tibi deserit Hesperus Oetam."

--VIRG. "Eclog." viii, l. 30.

"Thy bride comes forth! begin the festal rites!

The walnuts strew! prepare the nuptial lights!

O envied husband, now thy bliss is nigh!

Behold for thee bright Hesper mounts the sky!"

--WARTON.

When I again asked Paoli if it was possible for me in any way to shew

him my great respect and attachment, he replied, "Ricordatevi che Io vi

sia amico, e scrivetemi. Remember that I am your friend, and write to

me." I said I hoped that when he honoured me with a letter, he would

write not only as a commander, but as a philosopher and a man of

letters. He took me by the hand, and said, "As a friend." I dare not

transcribe from my private notes the feelings which I had at this

interview. I should perhaps appear too enthusiastick. I took leave of

Paoli with regret and agitation, not without some hopes of seeing him

again. From having known intimately so exalted a character, my

sentiments of human nature were raised, while, by a sort of contagion, I

felt an honest ardour to distinguish myself, and be useful, as far as my

situation and abilities would allow; and I was, for the rest of my life,

set free from a slavish timidity in the presence of great men, for where

shall I find a man greater than Paoli?

When I set out from Sollacarò I felt myself a good deal indisposed. The

old house of Colonna, like the family of its master, was much decayed;

so that both wind and rain found their way into my bed-chamber. From

this I contracted a severe cold, which ended in a tertian ague. There

was no help for it. I might well submit to some inconveniences, where I

had enjoyed so much happiness.

I was accompanied a part of the road by a great swarthy priest, who had

never been out of Corsica. He was a very Hercules for strength and

resolution. He and two other Corsicans took a castle, garrisoned by no

less than fifteen Genoese. Indeed the Corsicans have such a contempt for

their enemies, that I have heard them say, "Basterebbero le donne contra

i Genovesi, Our women would be enough against the Genoese." This priest

was a bluff, hearty, roaring fellow, troubled neither with knowledge nor

care. He was ever and anon shewing me how stoutly his nag could caper.

He always rode some paces before me, and sat in an attitude half turned

round, with his hand clapped upon the crupper. Then he would burst out

with comical songs about the devil and the Genoese,[139] and I don't

know what all. In short, notwithstanding my feverishness, he kept me

laughing whether I would or no.

[Footnote 139: "When he came to the part--

'We'll still make 'em run, and we'll still make 'em sweat,

In spite of the devil and Brussels Gazette!'

his eyes would sparkle as with the freshness of an impending

event."--Letter of Charles Lambe to H.C. Robinson, January 20th,

1826.--ED.]

I was returning to Corte, but I varied my road a little from the way I

had come, going more upon the low country, and nearer the western shore.

At Cauro I had a fine view of Ajaccio and its environs. My ague was

sometime of forming, so I had frequent intervals of ease, which I

employed in observing whatever occurred. I was lodged at Cauro in the

house of Signor Peraldi of Ajaccio, who received me with great

politeness. I found here another provincial magistracy. Before supper,

Signor Peraldi and a young Abbé of Ajaccio entertained me with some airs

on a violin. After they had shewn me their taste in fine improved

musick, they gave me some original Corsican airs, and at my desire, they

brought up four of the guards of the magistracy, and made them shew me a

Corsican dance. It was truly savage. They thumped with their heels,

sprung upon their toes, brandished their arms, wheeled and leaped with

the most violent gesticulations. It gave me the idea of an admirable war

dance.

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