CHAPTER XI.

_THE BUILDING IN ELEVATION._

“It is decided that we are to build our exterior walls with dressed

stone and range-work,” said Eugène, while they were levelling-up to the

ground-floor.

[Illustration: FIG. 30.]

“We have a good part of the materials on the ground. As regards

stones of large size, we shall get them from the quarries of Le

Blanc, which are only a mile or two distant. Our quoins, our door

and window-openings, our string-courses, cornices, dormer-windows,

and gable-copings, will be made of dressed stone. Let us begin with

the quoins. This is how you will give the details to Branchu; it is

a very simple matter. In this part of the country they sell stone by

the _scantling_; that is to say, the quarries supply it according to a

measure stipulated beforehand, and the price per cubic foot is less in

proportion to the uniformity of the order, and the ease with which it

is executed. Now our walls on the ground-floor are 2 feet thick: let

A be one of the corners (Fig. 30); for these you will require stones

all of the same scantling—2 ft 10 in. long by 2 feet wide, and a mean

height of 18 inches, which is the average thickness of the beds in the

quarries of this district. And these quoin stones will be placed as I

have marked here, one _a b c d_, the other _a e f g_, the result of

which will be that each stone will form alternately on one side and

the other a bond of 10 inches. The range-work having its courses about

6 inches thick, we shall have three courses of the range-work in the

height of each course of dressed stone, and the building as it rises

will present the appearance indicated by the perspective sketch B.

Between the plinth mould and the string-course of the first floor we

have 14 feet; nine courses of stone, plus the mortar beds, therefore,

will constitute its height. Let us see how we are to arrange our

window-casings. We must consider how to place the jalousies, which

cannot be dispensed with in the country, but which when folded back on

the face of the walls produce a disagreeable effect, very soon begin

to get out of repair, and are troublesome to shut or open, imposing

on the inmates of the dwelling a gymnastic exercise from which they

would gladly be excused. Interior reveals will be required sufficiently

deep for the casements, not to be flush with the walls, and to leave

a space between them and the curtains. Our widest windows are 4 feet

wide in the clear; our walls, on the ground-floor, are 2 feet thick;

we can therefore find a place for the jalousies in the casing, only

on condition of dividing each of these leaves into two or three folds.

Only those made of sheet iron will allow us to manage this, because

three sheets folded back on themselves are only 2 inches thick,

including the room left for the play of the hinges. This, then, is the

method given (in Fig. 31) of arranging the jambs of the windows: the

outside being at A, we will leave a thickness, B, to mask the leaves of

the jalousies folded up in the jamb of 4 inches. We will allow a space

of 10¾ inches for these leaves at C. Then will come the window-frame,

2¼ inches thick; total, 17 inches. We shall then have left 7 inches of

reveal inside at D.

[Illustration: FIG. 31.]

“You see at E how we shall build these window-openings: a sill, F,

of a single block of stone; then a course, G, 16 to 18 inches high,

bonding into the range-work; a stone on end, H, only the thickness of

the casing; a third course, I, like that marked G; and lastly, the

lintel. We will make this only the thickness of the casing, that is,

14¾ inches; we shall have left 9¼ inches, exactly space enough to turn

an arch of bricks, K (these being 9 inches long, and with the joint 9¼

inches). This arch will bear our joists, if there are any that have to

rest in the outer walls, and it will hinder a fracture of the lintels.

Besides this we will pass a tie-bar, L, under the latter. I find the

tie-bar more effective at this level than at the level of the flooring.

A tie-bar is an iron sinew placed in the thickness of the walls to bind

and keep in place the whole construction. It is not always placed in

houses built in country districts, but it is unwise to omit it—indeed,

a very poor economy to do so; for a building not tied is liable to be

easily cracked. But we shall speak of this again at the proper time.

Make a fair copy of these sketches and show them to me; and we will

give these details to Branchu.

[Illustration: FIG. 32.]

“We must also decide how we shall construct the floors. In Paris, at

the present day, they construct all the floors with joists of double T

iron, and for bearings of 16 to 20 feet they take iron 4½ to 6 inches

in vertical section. They pug these iron joists—placed about 28 inches

apart, and connected at intervals of about a yard, by iron tie-bars ⅝

in. square—with plaster concrete. This is no bad method, certainly;

but here we have neither the iron joists, which are so easily procured

at the great centres, nor the plaster-of-Paris, which is perhaps too

lavishly used in the capital, but which is nevertheless an excellent

material when it is properly employed, especially for the interior.

We must construct the floors with wood. But I have already told you

that timbers which have not been soaked for some time, and which have

been cut scarcely two years, decay very rapidly when enclosed, chiefly

in their bearings, that is their extremities built in the walls. To

prevent our floors giving us anxiety respecting their durability, we

must leave the timbers visible, and not build them in the walls. We

will, therefore, adopt the system of bearers attached to the walls to

receive the bearings of the joists; and as we have small oak trunks,

we will content ourselves with squaring them on two faces, and place

them diagonally, as I show you here (Fig. 32). For bearings of 16

to 20 feet, which are the largest we have, timbers 7 inches square

will be sufficient. If we think them insufficient we will put an

intermediate beam; that remains to be seen. These joists, diagonally

placed, present moreover their maximum of resistance to deflection.

We will place them at 20 inches from centre to centre. Their bearings

will be in the notches made in the bearers, as marked at A, and the

soffits—which are the spaces between the joists—will be made with

bricks placed flat-ways, overlaid with mortar and plastered beneath.

We may decorate these ceilings with line painting, which renders them

light and agreeable to the sight, as at H. Joists thus placed do not

present internal angles difficult to keep clean, and among which

spiders spin their webs. A dust with a soft brush readily cleans these

soffits.

[Illustration: FIG. 33.]

[Illustration: FIG. 34.]

“As to the bearers B, (placed against the wall, as section C

shows), they will be supported by corbels, D, a yard apart at most,

and by cramps, I, to prevent these timbers from giving out. This

arrangement will take the place of those cornices run in plaster,

which are of no use, and which we could not get executed properly in

this neighbourhood, where we have no good workmen in plaster. When

partitions above have to be supported, we will put a special joist,

the section of which I have sketched for you at E, composed of two

pieces, _a_ and _b_, with an iron plate between them—the whole fastened

together by iron pins at intervals. Joists like this are perfectly

rigid.

“As the joists rest on bearers, we have no need to trouble ourselves

about the windows, but we shall require trimmers at the chimney-breasts

and under the hearths, and—to receive these trimmers—trimmer-joists.

You will easily see that it would be dangerous to lay pieces of wood

under fireplaces. Accordingly, we place on the two sides of the jambs

of these fireplaces, at a distance of 12 inches from the hearth-stones,

stronger joists, which receive at 32 or 36 inches from the wall—to

clear the width of the fireplace—a piece called a trimmer, into which

the joists are tenoned.

“For the trimmer-joists we will take the type previously indicated at

E; we shall strengthen (Fig. 33) this beam in its bearing with a block,

D, resting on a strong stone corbel. We will bind the two pieces, E and

D, by an iron strap, F, and frame the trimmer by a tenon, H, in the

mortise G. This trimmer will receive, like the bearers, the ends of the

joists at I. The space, G K, will be the under side of the hearth of

the fireplace above; it will be 32 inches wide, and will be bedded with

brick, laid on tie-pieces of iron, L. These trimmer-joists, E, will

have to be let into the wall about 4 inches, to render them firm and

bind the structure; but in the neighbourhood of the flues we have no

reason to fear the effect of damp on the wood. To sum up, this is the

appearance of these joists and trimmers underneath the fireplaces (Fig.

34).”

All this, it must be confessed, appeared rather strange to Paul,

accustomed as he was to the invariable smooth white ceiling, and

who had never suspected that such level surfaces could hide such a

framework.

How to build a house · 第 11 / 28 章