COUNTRY RESIDENCE.--THUNDER AND LIGHTNING.--CLIMATE.--CHEAP LAW.
After various excursions and much deliberation, we fixed upon a small
estate, comprising an excellent dwelling-house, with out-offices, and
above fifty acres of land, delightfully situated on Long Island, and
within about twenty-five miles from New York. This was the most
delightful residence, both for beauty of situation and internal
convenience that I ever inhabited, but with all its attractions, it was
the scene of my severest afflictions.
The agreeable change from city to country at the delightful season of
spring, made the first few weeks pass away most pleasantly. In this
quarter of the globe, winter reigns with undisputed sway, from the first
day of November to the last of April. At the close of this period,
nature, refreshed by so long a repose and enlivened by the genial warmth
of the sun, throws off the sombre robe of winter, and suddenly appears
clad in her most lovely attire. Birds of gay plumage resembling those
of the tropics, with woodland flowers of all hues, and the bright
foliage of the forest trees, simultaneously spring into existence with a
rapidity that with us, would be considered miraculous. As an instance, I
distinctly remember the buds of the trees being firmly closed on the
28th of April, and on the 12th of the following May, the foliage of the
whole of them was as fully developed as in the midst of summer.
Strictly speaking, the American spring is confined to the first
fortnight in May. It is a most delightful season, but sadly too short.
Birds, such as for beauty, I never before saw at large, enliven the
scenery with their bright plumage. Choice flowers, thick and numberless
“as autumnal leaves that strew the brooks in Vallombrosa” are here seen,
with their rich colours enhancing each others charms by a beauteous
contrast. While myriads of butterflies, not the small pale coloured
things of northern Europe, but creatures with wings of uncommon size and
beauty, contribute their share to increase this fund of pleasure.
Neither pen nor pencil can do justice to the landscape scenery at this
period, viewed as it is, through the medium of a clear atmosphere, that
imparts a glowing warmth and renders the whole truly enchanting.
Every rose has its thorn, and the same bright sun that calls into
existence these beauties, awakens also swarms of serpents and venomous
reptiles of every kind. The bite of some of these is attended with
distressing circumstances, and others among them, such as the black
serpent and the copper-headed viper, have been known to inflict mortal
wounds. I believe I am not whimsically affected, yet I could never look
upon these dreadful creatures without shuddering, as they wriggled their
way in odious contortions just from before my feet. The caution required
to avoid stepping upon them, and the fear of some that are known to
pursue the human species, greatly detracted from the pleasure of my
woodland rambles; and, like the sword impending over the head of
Damocles, dashed all my rural pleasure with fearful apprehension.
One day while walking in the garden, I narrowly escaped a bite from a
black serpent, which our man-servant afterwards succeeding in killing;
its skin was variegated with all the darker shades of different colours
beautifully arranged: it measured five feet two inches in length. After
this, I was determined to walk in no other than a clear path.
About the latter part of May the heat of the sun becomes oppressive.
Then, farewell to pleasure. Clouds of musquitoes are ushered into
existence, and myriads of flies fill every room. Now our dress, and
almost our lives, become burthensome, we fan ourselves from morning to
night and feel for those who are not blessed with an ice-house. Although
the common flies are extremely numerous, they bear no proportion to the
musquitoes in point of annoyance. These are considered as minor evils by
some persons, but as respects myself, the sharp stinging wounds
inflicted by the latter, will not be very soon forgotten. I was confined
to the house under medical treatment for a fortnight, in consequence of
a bite I received from a musquito. Certainly this is a singular case;
but still it furnishes a proof of their noxious powers. I have often
been told, that in their visitations, they respect the persons of those
who are accustomed to drink largely of rum; but to the truth of this
assertion my eyes and understanding refused their assent. Ablution in
this liquor, it is true, is very grateful after enduring a day’s
campaign with them; and as a lotion for allaying the pain produced by
these insects, it is certainly useful.
With the hot weather comes thunder and lightning, and rain. The latter
invariably falls in torrents, and if the wheat grew as high and as heavy
in the ear as with us, it certainly could never arrive at maturity. A
transatlantic thunder storm is truly sublime and terrible. The sky first
becomes covered with black clouds, the wind blows violently, the clouds
suddenly expand, and emit what appears to be a broad stream of liquid
fire; the thunder instantaneously bursts forth with a crash, that I
suppose, all the artillery in the world could not equal. This is usually
repeated twice or thrice, and the storm exhausted by its own violence,
is suddenly succeeded by a delightful calm. Æolus rends the vail of
black clouds from the face of the sun, which now seems to shine with
increasing heat and splendour; while the earth, being previously parched
with excessive heat, and now suddenly deluged with torrents of rain,
emits clouds of vapour, that for a short time envelope the landscape in
a dense fog. This is quickly dispersed by the excessive heat of the sun;
the arid earth again thirsts for moisture, and we soon forget the storm.
The opinion prevailing in Europe respecting the salubrity of the United
States, is more favourable than an examination will warrant. My remarks
on this subject are the result of a patient and most painful
investigation, aided by experience, alas, too dearly purchased. I shall
confine my observations on the climate to the first summer we passed in
America, and the succeeding winter; which, from being more uniform than
the last year, are less liable to objection. The state of the
thermometer and the variations of the winds, I select from a diary kept
by my husband during our residence in the United States. The greatest
heat this summer was a hundred and five degrees. From mid-day to five in
the afternoon, during the months of July, August, and September, the
thermometer ranged between ninety and a hundred degrees--seldom above
the latter, and in very few instances below the former; while the
universal stillness of the air, rendered the heat quite as overpowering,
and even more so, than the state of the index warrants us to suppose.
The climate, and its effects upon the constitution, are always
distasteful subjects to the Americans. They cannot subscribe to any
other doctrine, than that which recommends theirs as the most salubrious
climate in the world. This is asserted by them with as much confidence
as if it were a self-evident truth; and all who dispute it, are in
danger of being overwhelmed by a torrent of displeasure. A physician
paid us a visit one broiling day in July, and certainly did acknowledge
that it was then hot--but, checking himself, he observed, “that the heat
was nothing to speak of--just fair summer weather--hotter, no doubt than
in England--but the perfection of summer.” We observed that the heat
had, for some days past, been above ninety-six degrees in the shade. As
we expected, he manifested symptoms of incredulity, which however, we
soon dispelled by referring him to the thermometer, then standing at
ninety-eight degrees. In the absence of positive proof like this, they
will endeavour to evade the question in any way, rather than submit to
acknowledge any fact that would jeopardize the character of their
climate. And truly it is admirable, if a Jamaica summer succeeded by a
Moscow winter, under one parallel, be acknowledged the standard of
perfection.
I discovered to my sorrow, that the morning air here is not so wholesome
as in England; on the contrary, it is considered most pernicious. This
greatly perplexed me in selecting the best time for a walk. The
physician had interdicted the matutinal breezes--the mid-day was not to
be thought of--and the evening gales were very unwholesome, and
frequently as deadly and chill as the breath of the death angel. There
are no cool evenings here in the summer as with us, so refreshing and so
pleasant, in which we may luxuriate in all the delights of an evening’s
ramble. While the sun is above the horizon, he blazes away with
insufferable heat, and his descent is mostly succeeded by a chillness
that resembles the icy hand of death to the feelings, and frequently is
such in reality to those who are often exposed to its influence. The
sudden vicissitudes of the atmosphere, I consider the most dangerous
feature of the whole affair; for, incredible as it may appear, the
mercury has fallen from ninety-five to fifty-six degrees in the short
space of three hours. A variation of twenty or twenty-five degrees, in
the same period, is by no means an uncommon occurrence.
The houses in the country are almost universally formed of wood, the
best of them are faced with shingles (thin plates of cedar,) neatly
painted: these are by no means deficient in comfort. For the sake of
coolness in summer, they are so constructed as to furnish a shaded walk
on both sides: and when flowers are trained to climb up the pillars, the
whole has a very pleasing appearance.
During the hours of mid-day, no work can be done in the fields by the
white men; the “hands” therefore, return home and doze away the time in
the out offices, and work early and late in order to atone for their
meridian slumber.
The city is preferable as a place of residence during the heat of
summer. The neat awnings that shelter the whole of the side walks prove
an agreeable protection from the powerful influence of the sun’s rays,
when it is necessary to go from the doors. During the hottest part of
the day little is done by the gentlemen, besides loitering about,
reading the newspapers, and drinking iced punch, and other mysterious
compounds; while the ladies, reclining on the sofas fan themselves,
drink lemonade, and doze. Business transactions of all kinds occupy the
early hours of the morning; then the ice carts perambulate the city, and
provisions for the day are procured. After mid-day the streets are
deserted; those who have leisure, retire to doze away the hours; the
shopkeeper closes his doors and slumbers behind the counter; a solemn
stillness reigns, and the city seem forsaken and desolate.
The twilight is of very short duration, and the setting sun is succeeded
by a greater state of darkness than with us; but, as a compensation, the
moonlight appears clearer and much brighter, and in winter, it is truly
delightful.
The scorching summer usually terminates with September; and is succeeded
by a month of the most charming weather I ever experienced. This is
October--the American autumn. Now the sun’s dreaded rays lay aside a
portion of their fiery force, the forest trees begin to change the hue
of their leaves, and, instead of green, nature’s universal livery,
colours of all shades gradually appear, from the dark purple to the
lightest yellow. The immense variety of trees accounts for the many
coloured foliage, and if variety be charming, it is here beheld in
perfection--not merely the sombre tints seen at the same season in an
English coppice--but purple, red, brown, and every colour that can be
produced on the palette of the artist.
This is likewise the season for abundance. Apples, the finest in the
world, peaches, melons, and fruit of every kind that grace the orchard,
are produced in such profusion, that even in the city they are sold for
very little more than the expense of their carriage. Maze, which is here
cultivated with singular care and judgement, is now seen in every
direction, waving its purple tassels in the breeze; and imparting a
peculiar character to the landscape scenery.
The iron reign of winter usually commences about the middle of November.
From that time till the last days of April the weather is excessively
cold, but the atmosphere it must be allowed, is delightfully clear and
pleasant to the eye. Were it a matter of choice, and were I doomed to
live in America, I should certainly prefer a perpetual winter, cold as
it is, to the broiling summer and its extreme variations, with their
dreaded consequences.
The lowest point of the thermometer this winter was three degrees below
zero. This was in January, but for several days it was below ten
degrees, and for weeks, it seldom rose higher than eighteen. Although
the cold in winter is very severe, still very little rain falls; or I
should rather say, rain seldom falls; but hail, sleet, and snow comes
plentifully in storms of considerable duration. In the absence of these
the air is cold indeed, but delightfully pure and translucent.
The changes of the thermometer in winter are neither so sudden nor so
rapid as in summer, but the winds are as fickle then, as during any
period of the year. Those from the north and the west are equally cold,
and the _north-west_ wind is dreaded in winter more than any other.
Frequently the wind will _suddenly_ veer from a particular point of the
compass to the one diametrically opposite. I never knew this to take
place in England.
According to what I have advanced, the greatest heat during this year
was 105°, and the greatest cold 3° below zero; the extreme variation
therefore, will be 108°. Hence it appears, that during the summer, New
York, which is situated about 40° of latitude, endures the heat of Egypt
or Arabia, and, in winter, the cold of Stockholm or Petersburg. Nor is
this all, for in no part of the old world, are the diurnal vicissitudes
of the atmosphere either so sudden or in such extremes. Petersburg is
cold in winter and cool in summer: Egypt is never absolutely cold--but
the climate of the eastern shores of North America is ever variable, and
alone uniform in unwholesomeness.
The _miasma_ produced by the heat of the sun, from the vegetable matter
deposited in the numberless marshes, that every where abound in an
uncleared country, is another fruitful source of disease. Then there are
sicknesses arising from local causes. With a climate marked by such
extremes of temperature, and vicissitudes so sudden, combined with the
pestilential effluvia arising from vegetable decomposition, there can be
no wonder if America is one of the most unhealthy places in the world.
Had I been in possession of these facts before I crossed the Atlantic, I
should no doubt have concluded as I am now compelled to do, by
dear-bought experience; but no work that I could meet with was
sufficiently explicit on this point; all the information I could collect
was delivered in terms too vague and indefinite to arrest the attention.
Many persons from Europe have visited the United States, for the
prudential purpose of making an experiment, prior to their removal
thither to spend the remainder of their days. They have, perhaps, landed
just in the most healthy season of the year, and their attention being
wholly engrossed by pecuniary matters, they entirely overlooked the
subject of health. Attracted by novelty and charmed with the prospect,
they have sent for their families and enrolled themselves as citizens;
but a year’s experience, attended with a few fits of sickness, dispels
the delusion, and convinces them, that the same country that appears so
pleasant to the eye of a visiter, may present a different aspect when
adopted for a permanent residence.
It is not my intention to dwell long in detailing the afflictions of my
own family from ill health, but I cannot, with justice to my readers,
omit all notice of this circumstance. We suffered the most in the
country with the bilious fever, and the distressing attacks of the
chills; but I am thankful to say, none of us sunk under these
visitations. With the exception of one little girl, myself and my family
consisting of five individuals, besides three servants, were all at the
same time confined to our beds. Many of our neighbours were in the same
condition as ourselves, and I fear some were far worse. No relief could,
therefore, be expected from that quarter. Our medical attendant was
himself at the point of death, and the attention of others was wholly
engrossed by their own connections.
So general was the epidemic, that no doubt, numbers were lost for want
of proper attention, and those few who were well, and from motives of
commisseration or curiosity, were induced to pay us a short visit,
_entertained_ us with the peculiar distresses of a long list of the
dying and the dead. I hourly expected some of us would bid adieu to this
world, and then the most I could hope for, was a silent interment in
unconsecrated ground, with no other requiem than the ocean’s deep moan
as it laved the neighbouring shore, or the sighing of the breezes on the
trees of the forest.
Providence, however, did not forsake us. One evening, a person chanced
to call who knew my husband, and at his own suggestion, took our horse
and wagon and went in quest of assistance. Contrary to our expectations,
his exertions were crowned with success. He returned with a clever
active American woman, to whom we were under great obligations, for she
acted both as physician and nurse, and soon made us all as comfortable
as circumstances would permit. From that day we began to recover, though
it was months before the dreaded disorder entirely forsook us.
In contemplating the manners, customs, and affairs of this singular
people, I am constrained to admit that there is much to admire, and many
things worthy of commendation. Among these, the general character and
circumstances of the great mass of the people stand prominently forth.
In consequence of the high price of labour of every kind, and the
comparative ease with which the essentials of life may be obtained, the
very lowest of the people are well clad, and take a laudable pride in
appearing clean and smart after the toil of the day is over. The theatre
is the grand point of attraction for numbers; others assemble in reading
rooms, or attend lectures, or religious meetings; taverns and spirit
stores have their share of frequenters; while some few congregate to
read and hear read the wisdom of Thomas Paine, and his coadjutors in the
cause of infidelity. But, in justice it must be admitted, that very few
prostrate their time to this latter purpose.
None of those ostensible instances of deep moral degradation, the
wretched offspring of infamy and want, that force themselves, as it
were, upon our notice in our densely populated cities, are to be met
with here. Nor did I ever notice any of those extreme cases of abject
destitution--so painful to contemplate, but still so numerous with us.
In fact, during the whole period of my residence in the United States, I
never saw the face of a single beggar.
There are no poor’s rates, and the few whom misfortune has rendered
proper objects for eleemosynary aid, find refuge in alms-houses
supported by voluntary contributions.
The universal diffusion of knowledge is another pleasing object of
contemplation. Public schools are numerous and well supported; and as
almost the whole population to a man, are ardently engaged in the
promotion or pursuit of political schemes, of one kind or another, it
would be a remarkable circumstance were their children incapable of
reading the newspapers.
Another grand stimulant to exertion in educational matters, is to be
found in the acquisitive disposition of the people, and their love of
commercial enterprise. Stripling tradesmen are here to be met with in
numbers, pushing their various undertakings with all the ardour and
recklessness of youth, seconded by an hereditary thirst for gain. Hence,
from one cause or another, I conceive it would be a very difficult
matter to find in any part of the Union, a native-born American arrived
at years of maturity, incapable of writing and keeping his accounts.
It were much to be wished that the planters in the south, and other
slave-owners, would bestow some little care upon the instruction of
those unfortunate beings, that the chances of power have consigned to
their charge. Yet so far are they from encouraging even the commonest
kind of instruction, that were the “schoolmaster abroad” here, he would
be saluted with one clamourous war-whoop, throughout the whole of the
slave states of this land of liberty. The legislators of Virginia in
particular, have immortalized their humanity, by making it penal for any
one to teach a negro to read, or to be found aiding, encouraging, or
abetting in such an intellectual abomination!
Yet let me not be understood as speaking of the literature of the United
States, in terms of unqualified praise. All their literary characters,
who are considered clever by us, have reaped their laurels on British
ground. As for the rest I can say very little. A few novels, written in
the angels and despair style of Charlotte Smith, and two or three
volumes of poetry were all that I ever saw. They are good things in
their way--that is, good as opiates. I remember once to have been so
scolded for speaking disrespectfully of one of their poets, that if I
may be forgiven for the past I will do so no more.
But to resume the subject seriously, I think I am safe in asserting that
there is no literature in the United States--or at least very little of
sterling merit; whatever may be the pretensions of some. For surely the
“things of a day” poured from the periodical press, in the form of
newspapers and magazines cannot with propriety be called a nation’s
literature.
And here let me observe, that the newspaper press of England is as far
superior to that of the United States, as Scott’s historical novels are
to the romances of the last century. It is also worthy of remark, that
the American press is as far below the intellectual standard of their
people, as the London press is above that of ours. Intelligence like
money, with them is more equally distributed. The merchant and his clerk
are generally on a par with respect to mental culture, while the porter
in the warehouse is very few removes below either. On the other hand,
profound scholars and men of great opulence are equally rare; and the
nation may be said to be alike free from the influence of great
capitalists and extreme destitution.
There is something pleasingly simple and patriarchal in the management
of their rural affairs. The ploughing with oxen, and the use of these
animals in treading out corn, forcibly reminds us of the scenes and
usages in scripture history. The alacrity with which the natives combine
to assist a widow, a poor neighbour, or a stranger, deserves to be
recorded in terms of the highest commendation.
As an illustration of the above remark,--suppose a farmer, from some one
of the many causes of affliction to which all are liable, becomes
incapable of cultivating his land. His neighbours repair to his house by
appointment, with their oxen and implements; turn into his fields, and
plough, sow, and harrow every acre on his farm that requires these
operations. At the conclusion of their labours, they refresh themselves,
if their friend be able to make suitable provision for such a number; if
not, they return contentedly home, satisfied with the consciousness of
having performed a meritorious action.
If their united assistance be required in harvesting the crop, it is
cheerfully given; and he who ill-naturedly withholds his aid, subjects
himself to the eternal ban of the whole community. On one occasion of
this nature, I saw nineteen ploughs at work in one field. Nothing
displays the American character in so benevolent a point of view, as
this unity of co-operation in cheerfully assisting those, whom
misfortune has deprived of the power of assisting themselves.
That equivocal species of blessing, cheap law, is another of those
peculiarities that forcibly arrests the attention of strangers. The
lawyers are here a host, surpassing in number the military, naval, and
police forces united. They comprise men of all shades of talent and
character, from the very highest to, alas, the very, very lowest.
Doubtless, as with us, they look upon their clients as tradesmen do upon
their customers, as a source of profit and honourable competition. But
in a nation of obstinate sticklers for trifles, where almost every tenth
man is a lawyer, and where a cause may be tried for ten dollars, there
is reason to fear that sharpness is sometimes thrust a little beyond the
verge of honesty by some, despite the profession being gilded with the
flattering distinction of honourable.
But the practitioners are not entirely to be blamed--the principle is
objectionable. Should any desire to witness the developement of the
cheap law system, in all the glories of its confusion, he may behold it
here. Suits at law are perpetually throwing the peace of even rural
society into convulsions. Causes are tried and re-tried, till the
expences stop the current of litigation, which a wholesome view, at the
onset, of heavy costs in perspective, would have prevented from flowing.
Many of the small country justices or “squires” as they are here called,
are elected to the office, without any regard to their legal knowledge
or intellectual capabilities. The voice of party frequently raises these
Daniels to the judgement seat; and as they obtain a criminal bonus upon
every cause, their desire to promote litigation has never been called
into question. The consequence of all this is, that the law, from being
placed within the reach of every one, is become a powerful promoter of
discord, and actions are commenced to gratify the malevolence of some,
or the oppression of others, while hatred, malice, and uncharitableness
are the certain result.