CHAPTER XXIV

GOLD MINING IN BOLIVIA--TUPIZA AND ITS MINES--BISMUTH

Gold mining in Bolivia has not attracted so much attention in recent

years as its importance merits, though there was a time when the fame

of this country as a gold producer nearly eclipsed the universal

renown of its vast wealth of silver. In the sixteenth and seventeenth

centuries, which marked only the beginning of their development, the

mines of Alto Peru yielded in gold, according to the authority of

Humboldt, about two billion dollars, and in the eighteenth century

the mine of Chuquiaguillo alone produced more than one hundred and

twenty-five million dollars in gold. It is a remarkable fact that this

mine has not once failed to yield large quantities of gold annually,

ever since its discovery.

[Illustration: DISTANT GLIMPSE OF TUPIZA, THROUGH A TUNNEL.]

The history of the Chuquiaguillo mine is as old as that of the Incas,

who received tribute from their Collasuyo subjects in the gold nuggets

of this wonderful stream. Like the Chuquiapu, of which it is a small

tributary, the Chuquiaguillo received its name from the Indians, in

whose language the word means “heir of gold.” The mine is situated in

the beautiful valley of Poto-Poto, about a league distant from La Paz,

where the Spaniards found the Indians engaged in washing gold at the

time of the invasion. Many thousands of Indians worked at the task of

gathering gold for the Inca, and the settlement in which they lived was

the Chuquiapu on the site of which the Spaniards founded the present

city of La Paz.

The conqueror himself, Don Francisco Pizarro, was the first

_dueño_, or owner, of the mine of Chuquiaguillo after the fall

of the Inca empire. History does not record the amount taken out

of the mine while under the exploitation of Pizarro’s agents; but

during the colonial period huge nuggets were frequently found, one

of these treasures, which was sent to the Museum of Madrid in 1718,

weighing forty-seven pounds and eight ounces. The extraordinary

feature of this mine is that it appears inexhaustible, great nuggets,

or _pepitas_, being continually found. After the Spaniards were

expelled from the country, Chuquiaguillo passed into the hands of

various _dueños_, all of whom were made rich by its gold. One of

these proprietors found a nugget of twenty-two pounds in weight.

[Illustration: RICH GOLD MINING REGION OF CHUQUIAGUILLO, NEAR

LA PAZ.]

[Illustration: ADMINISTRATION HOUSE, CHUQUIAGUILLO MINES,

NEAR LA PAZ.]

In 1901 the Chuquiaguillo valley, with its rich gold mine, became the

property of a German company; and under the able administration of

the present director, Mr. Joseph Antonio Sedelmayr, the production

has been increased greatly beyond what it was a few years ago. The

latest improvements in machinery and other working apparatus have

been made, the modern installations used in California placer mines

being adopted, with some monitors which give the very best results.

The earth is very rich in metal, a cubic mètre yielding thirty-five

cents gold. The quantity of gravel appears inexhaustible, as the

_cerros_ are immense. Water is brought from the neighboring snow

mountains, and there is sufficient incline to the valley to carry off

the tailings. With other machinery which it is the purpose of the

company to add to that already in use, the output of Chuquiaguillo may

be enormously increased. So recently as March 22, 1905, a gold and

quartz nugget weighing fifty-two ounces, of which forty-five ounces

were pure gold, was taken from the mine, this handsome specimen being

now in the possession of Messrs. Speyer and Company, of New York. The

annual production of the mine since 1900 has been about an average of

sixty kilogrammes, though the increase has been notable since 1902.

The value of the gold taken out amounts to nearly one hundred thousand

bolivianos annually. The _cerros_ are so rich in metal, that the

gravel which is washed down from their sides yields thirty-five cents

worth of gold per cubic mètre, and nuggets as large as almonds are

not rare. The process of bringing the gold-bearing gravel down to the

river is by means of a hose which ejects a powerful stream that when

turned on the _cerro_ dislodges the earth, bringing the rich

pebbles down to the base. In a beautiful locality, overlooking the

valley, the administration house of the company is situated, and here

the director receives his guests, entertaining them with the most

charming hospitality. No _paseo_ is more popular than a day’s

outing at Chuquiaguillo, which is reached after a short horseback ride

from La Paz through one of the prettiest of valleys, presenting many

picturesque scenes along the route, and ending at the administration

mansion. Every foreigner who visits La Paz and enjoys the honor of

being a guest of the courtly _dueño_ of Chuquiaguillo remembers it

as a distinguished occasion.

There are other rich placer gold mines besides Chuquiaguillo in the

department of La Paz which have yielded enormous treasure. As stated

elsewhere, one of the most celebrated gold-bearing regions of Bolivia

is in the province of Larecaja, in the neighborhood of Sorata, where

the river Tipuani, which flows down from the snow-covered peak,

contains large quantities of the precious metal. The gravel deposits

in this river are so great that at a depth of one hundred feet no rock

bottom is found, the production of gold increasing with the depth

of the gravel. Tipuani gold is from twenty-two to twenty-three and

one-half carats fine, and so abundant that the owners of the richest

mine of this region, Señores Villamil, obtained during the fifty years

from 1818 to 1868 one hundred and fifty-one thousand ounces of gold.

Much of this gold comes in flat grains of the size of a melon seed,

and it is always of high standard. Not only from the heights of the

mountain Sorata, or Illampu, but from the other _cerros_ of the

chain which joins it to Illimani further south, innumerable streams

flow into the valleys of the Yungas of La Paz which carry gold in the

gravel that is found in their currents. Cajones, in the Yungas, is one

of the richest gold streams. It is a singular fact that while quartz

lodes have been discovered in different places about the headwaters of

the ravines through which the gold-bearing rivers flow, they do not

appear to correspond at all in richness to the deposits lower down.

The rich placer mines of Yani and Tacacoma are in the same province as

those of Tipuani.

In the province of Caupolican, the river Suches is noted for the

abundance and quality of gold found in its sand and gravel, and

this district presents the advantage of being within convenient

distance of the shipping ports, as the town of Suches, the chief

centre of the mining in this river, is situated only forty miles

from the port of Lake Titicaca, and two hundred miles from La Paz.

A great many rich placer mines have remained unexploited because of

their inaccessibility. All around La Paz gold is continually being

discovered, nearly every river having some gold-bearing gravel in

its course. The Cerro Illimani contains gold in abundance, and it is

related that in the year 1681, a lightning stroke detached a huge rock

from the side of the mountain which was found to be enormously rich in

the precious metal. All the streams that flow from Illimani contain

gold, such as the Palca, Calacoto, Chungamayo, and others. The gold

mines of Vila-haque, near La Paz, were famous in the times of the

Incas, and are worked to-day.

Gold has been taken from the streams of Loayza province ever since

colonial times, and the gold district of Araca, which lies at the

foot of the Tres Cruces Range, is said by mining engineers to be one

of the richest in Bolivia, lack of capital having prevented its full

development in recent years. Under Spanish rule the celebrated gold

mine of San Francisco, which belonged to a fabulously rich Spaniard,

named Don Diego de Baena, brought an income of two million dollars

gold, which the chronicle says the worthy miner spent to build the

magnificent church of San Francisco in La Paz and the Cathedral in

Oruro. He suspended the working of the San Francisco mine because of

inundations. A mining expert, reporting on this district, says: “Many

millions of dollars have been taken out of the gold mines of Araca,

and much more could be obtained if capital were forthcoming for their

exploitation.” The quartz vein of the Araca mines is very wide, the

standard varying between five and twelve grains per ton of two thousand

two hundred and forty pounds when treated by amalgamation, which, by

the way, is an unsatisfactory method, as about thirty per cent of the

gold is lost owing to the extreme fineness of the gold particles. A

difficulty encountered in the exploitation of many of these mines is

that of securing modern machinery for the treatment of the gold so that

every unnecessary waste may be avoided. The Araca district has not been

fully surveyed, though mining authorities say that what is known as the

Rosario belt contains a million cubic mètres of gold quartz, and it is

estimated that more than half a million tons could be worked with rich

results. In Inquisivi, also, there are gold mines of great promise.

[Illustration: MOUNTAIN OF CHOROLQUE, SITE OF THE HIGHEST TIN

AND BISMUTH MINES IN THE WORLD.]

The department of Cochabamba, which is rich in products of every

description, can boast of some of the most valuable gold mines of

Bolivia. Choquecamata, situated about seventy-five miles from the

capital city of the department in the _serrania_ of Tetillas,

is the centre of an extensive mining region. The central part of the

_serrania_ consists of granite and quartz, the Choquecamata River

containing gold-bearing gravel from the point of its junction with the

Potrero, at Encañada, over a distance of six miles down its course.

It is an excellent mining region, the conditions being favorable for

its development on a large scale by the hydraulic system. At their

confluence the two rivers have made a new channel which cuts across

the former channel of the Choquecamata, leaving a wide dry space, rich

in gold-bearing gravel. It was here the mines were first discovered

and worked by the Spaniards in 1740, and from this marvellously rich

deposit, covering little more than half a league, which was called

the Angostura, meaning “narrows,” gold was taken out to the value of

more than forty million dollars. It is located at an altitude of about

twelve thousand feet above sea level in one of the many picturesque

_quebradas_ of the province of Ayopaya, and was apparently known

to the primitive inhabitants as a gold-bearing district, the name

Choquecamata being Aymará and signifying “breeding place of gold.”

[Illustration: QUECHISLA, MINING ESTABLISHMENT OF ARAMAYO,

FRANCKE AND COMPANY, NEAR TUPIZA.]

Near the site of the old missions which the Jesuits founded during the

colonial period in the province of Chiquitos, now forming part of the

department of Santa Cruz, rich gold mines were discovered centuries

ago. The _serrania_ of San Simon yielded handsome returns for the

labor of the Indians under the direction of their Spanish masters.

Within recent years other valuable mines have been found in this

province, which is only partially settled and contains vast stretches

of territory, the natural resources of which are practically unknown.

The gold mines of Santa Rosa, which lie along the route of the new

railway to be built from Santa Cruz to the Beni, were famous during

the past century for their abundance, having yielded two thousand five

hundred pounds’ weight of gold between the years 1847 and 1877. The

few travellers who have journeyed through this region pronounce it one

of the richest in the whole of Bolivia, and it possesses the special

advantage of having as fine a climate as any country in the world, the

four seasons being distinctly marked, though in a moderate degree.

Gold is found in the Beni and in the Territorio de Colonias, but it

will hardly be developed to any great extent until the transportation

facilities in this part of Bolivia are improved. There is plenty of

gold in the upper streams of the Acre, Madre de Dios, Orton, and the

Beni, as well as in those of the Mamoré and other tributaries of the

Guaporé or Iténez.

[Illustration: DREDGE IN CONSTRUCTION AT SAN JUAN DE ORO

MINES, TUPIZA.]

From central Bolivia southward a gold-producing region extends in a

wide strip from Cochabamba to the border of Argentina. Chuquisaca is

said to have been at one time a great mining centre, and, according to

the historian Calancha, the name itself signifies “rock of gold.” The

Inca’s subjects knew of the existence of gold in all these provinces,

and the Spaniards merely followed their guidance in searching for the

precious metal. Whenever it was possible, the Indian deceived his new

masters and kept secret his knowledge of the locality of these mines.

But though many rich _cerros_ and gold-bearing streams exist which

were never known to the Spaniards, they took possession of hundreds of

mines in all parts of the country and worked them with great profit.

In the department of Potosí, the _cerro_ of Poconota contains

one of the oldest gold mines in the country. It is situated in the

province of North Chichas, on the route from Potosí to Tupiza, and will

be on the line of the railroad which is being built from Potosí to the

Argentine border. The _cerro_ shows evidence of having been worked

by the Spaniards on a very large scale and with great success, as there

are still vestiges of elaborate and expensive apparatus, which could

only have been afforded by enormous returns from the exploitation of

the mines. The gold of Poconota shows a standard of ten grammes per

hundred pounds. The lode extends for a distance of two thousand seven

hundred feet, and is forty inches in width and nearly three hundred

feet in depth. It represents about half a million tons of ore, which

will produce, at a conservative estimate, several tons of fine gold.

In the provinces of Linares, Chayanta, and Lipez gold is found in

abundance, the Indians having exploited mines in all the principal

_serranias_ and streams of these districts. They still wash gold

from the streams of Caiza, Yura, and San Juan. In the province of

Lipez gold quartz is found in the _cerros_ of Colcha, one of the

_socavones_ being so rich that the Indians call it _abitans_,

which means “storehouse of gold.” The Yura River, which flows through

the province of Porco to join the Rio Blanco, San Juan, and other

tributaries of the Pilcomayo, contains large quantities of auriferous

gravel; and in the _cerros_ of Yura, a canton of Porco, immense

gold veins have been discovered which still await exploitation. In

Suipacha, on the border of Argentina, a few miles south of Tupiza, gold

is found in a vein forty miles long and seven feet wide, the precious

metal being plainly visible in the quartz. Portugalete, midway between

Tupiza and the famous Cerro Chorolque, is the centre of a region of

gold mines which extend in all directions. All the _quebradas_

of this district contain gold, which has always been worked in a

primitive way by the Indians, and still provides their chief means of

subsistence. The gold-mining district of Santa Catalina extends along

the course of the river San Juan from its source in the Cordillera

Real as far as the Suipacha mines, which are an extension of the Santa

Catalina veins. It includes the quartz and placer mines of Esmoraca,

Estarca, Chilco, and other rich valleys, which, like Portugalete, have

for centuries been worked by Indians. Foreign enterprise is now being

attracted to these rich deposits.

Tupiza is one of the most important mineral centres of Bolivia, all the

gold-producing districts of the province of South Chichas, of which

Tupiza is the capital, being tributary to it, while it is further

famous as the centre of the finest bismuth mines in the world. The

various companies engaged in exploiting mines of gold, silver, tin,

wolfram, antimony, lead, zinc, and bismuth, which are found in this

locality, have their headquarters in the city of Tupiza. Minerals

and precious stones, especially emeralds, are brought here for sale

by the Indians, who find them in the various mines of the province.

Portugalete, San Vicente, Lipez, Santo Domingo, Chocoma, Esmoraca, San

Juan de Oro, Tatasi, and the magnificent Chorolque are among the most

important mining centres.

The mine of San Juan de Oro is one of the very few in the province

of South Chichas which are being exploited on a large scale and with

the use of modern machinery. In 1905 a company was formed in Buenos

Aires for the purpose of developing the San Juan de Oro mine to its

full capacity; a capital of about half a million dollars in gold was

invested in the enterprise, and a powerful dredge was put in the river

as one of the initial steps of the work. Several dredges are now in

operation, and the returns are most satisfactory, showing an average of

fifty cents’ worth of gold per cubic mètre. The opinion is generally

expressed by experts in mining industries that there is a great future

in store for Bolivian gold mines, not only in this province, but

throughout the entire country. The universal prediction is that the

advent of the railroads will bring new enterprise to the development of

abandoned mines and lead to the discovery of hitherto unknown mineral

wealth.

[Illustration: PICTURESQUE VIEW OF TUPIZA.]

The mining industry of Tupiza owes a great deal to the enterprise of

one of Bolivia’s leading statesmen, Señor Don Felix Avelino Aramayo,

whose name is identified not only with the progress of the city,

but of the entire province. Many of the most valuable mines are his

property, and it is owing to his great energy and enterprise that they

have been made to yield an enormous fortune. Bolivia leads the world

in bismuth, and it is chiefly out of Señor Aramayo’s mines that the

precious mineral is taken. The firm of Aramayo, Francke and Company

bought the silver, tin, and bismuth mines of Chorolque in 1889, and

in addition to this famous mountain they also control the output of

the mines of Tasna, a mountain thirty leagues from the city of Tupiza,

which produces bismuth, tin, wolfram, and other minerals, and they

have a large establishment for the refinement of ores at Quechisla,

twenty-five leagues from Tupiza.

The magnificent _cerro_ of Chorolque, which towers above the

clouds and is visible hundreds of miles distant, where it looks like

a huge white pyramid looming above the horizon, is the centre of the

highest tin and bismuth mines in the world. The mines are worked at an

altitude of eighteen thousand feet. The different lodes of tin are of

great thickness, and their lower strata contain bismuth in chlorides

or sulphides. Bismuth is sometimes met with also in its native state,

as in Coribiri, where it is found in nuggets weighing six or seven

grammes. The deposits of bismuth in the Chorolque lode are found only

on the _cerro_ and its slopes. Rich bismuth mines were recently

discovered in the province of Inquisivi, and this mineral is found

in some quantity wherever there are large deposits of tin. The total

production of bismuth in Bolivia averages from four thousand to five

thousand metric quintals annually, and its value fluctuates between

fourteen and sixteen pounds sterling per metric quintal.

The picturesque little city of Tupiza has a population of about

three thousand inhabitants. It is situated about sixty miles north

of the Argentine boundary line, in the heart of a beautiful country,

diversified by mountain, valley, and stream, and blessed by a climate

which in summer is balmy and delightful, and even in winter is

not too cold. Along its valleys are many prosperous haciendas and

picturesque _fincas_, or country places, where various kinds of

fruits and vegetables are grown. Cattle roam over the lower mountain

slopes, and every condition is favorable for the future development

of this locality as one of the richest in pastoral and agricultural

possibilities as well as mineral wealth. Nowhere are valleys more

picturesque, the skies bluer, or the fragrance of flowers and shade of

trees more attractive to the sight than in this charming little border

city.

[Illustration: PLAZA OF TUPIZA.]

[Illustration: THE INDIAN MISSION OF SANTA CRUZ.]

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