COCHABAMBA, THE GARDEN CITY
In a beautiful valley of one of the eastern _serranias_ of the
Royal Range, sheltered alike from the severe cold of the higher
altitudes and the excessive heat of the lower plains, the city of
Cochabamba lies smiling under a benign sun, surrounded by picturesque
hills and fertile levels, with the snow-crowned summit of Tunari in
view to the north, and the tortuous cañons of the Rio Grande stretching
southward. Not in the Vale of Kashmir is the zephyr balmier or Nature’s
varied expression more lovely. Its gardens blossom with the fairest
flowers, and in its orchards grow the most delicious fruits. It is the
metropolis of a region rich in production, the granary of the republic.
As one of the oldest and most important cities of Bolivia, it possesses
historical and social interest, as well as the attraction that scenery
and climate afford, and claims attention not only for its own charm,
but because it is the cradle of many of Bolivia’s greatest men.
[Illustration: THE ALAMEDA, COCHABAMBA.]
At the time that the noble Don Francisco de Oropesa, Count of Toledo,
the greatest of the viceroys, gave the order for the foundation of
Cochabamba in 1570, he was visiting La Paz for the purpose of making a
careful study of the conditions and needs of the Spanish colony in Alto
Peru. The fact was called to his attention that several families among
the loyal subjects of His Majesty King Philip II. were living in a
valley which the Indians called Cochapampa, where they were completely
isolated and suffering many hardships through lack of communal
advantages. With characteristic promptness he immediately despatched
a representative whom he provided with the necessary authority to
establish a city, on the site of a pueblo called Canata, though there
was delay in the execution of this plan, which was not definitely
carried into effect until January 1, 1574, when, as before stated, the
city was named Villa de Oropesa. The name was changed to Cochabamba in
1786, when King Charles III. bestowed upon it the title of “loyal and
valorous,” in recognition of the distinguished services rendered by its
citizens in quelling the rebellion of Tupac-Catari. The word Cochabamba
is derived from the Quichua words _cocha_, meaning a “pool,” and
_pampa_, a “field,” the valley being level and well watered,
especially at its eastern extremity, where the city is located, at an
altitude of nine thousand feet above the sea. The mountains of the
_serrania_ of San Pedro mark the eastern boundary of the city, and
the _colina_, or hill, of San Sebastian overlooks it on the south.
The river Rocha, a branch of the Tayapaya, which, in confluence with
the Mizque, joins the Rio Grande, the principal affluent of the Mamoré,
has its rise in the _serrania_ near Cochabamba and flows along the
northern and western boundary of the city, fertilizing the neighboring
_campiña_, and making it perennially green and beautiful.
[Illustration: LA PUERTA DE COCHABAMBA, ON THE COACH ROAD
FROM ORURO TO COCHABAMBA.]
[Illustration: THERMAL SPRINGS NEAR COCHABAMBA.]
The city of Cochabamba has a population of about twenty-four thousand
inhabitants, or of forty thousand including the suburban population,
of which only three hundred are of foreign birth, chiefly Peruvians
and Germans. It is divided into four sections, their location being
determined by the four angles of the principal public square, the Plaza
14 de Setiembre. The central plaza of Spanish-American cities is often
named in honor of some important historical event. The Plaza 14 de
Setiembre in Cochabamba commemorates the date on which the patriots
of Cochabamba rose in arms to fight for the cause of independence
in 1809, two months after the installation of the famous revolution
led by Pedro Domingo Murillo, and four months from the date of the
uprising against the royal authority in Chuquisaca. A handsome stone
column in the centre of the plaza bears the names of the patriots who
led the movement, of whom Don Estevan Arze, Don Francisco del Rivero,
and Don Melchór Guzmán performed marvels of valor in the terrible
struggle that followed. The story of Cochabamba’s share in the noble
fight for freedom is thrilling in interest, and has some romantic
features which show the temperament of the _hijas de Tunari_.
The women of Cochabamba are of the type of the ancient Roman matron
in many characteristics, and more than one patriotic daughter of the
Garden City has earned the admiration of posterity by her courageous
efforts in behalf of the cause of liberty. The lives of Arze and
Rivero were saved through the ready wit and quick action of Doña Lucia
Ascui, the wife of an employé of the government, who learned of an
intrigue by which the governor planned to get rid of these troublesome
revolutionists. Promptly the noble lady sought means to warn them
of their danger, though at great risk to her own life, and through
her brave efforts they were able to make their escape to a place of
safety. On September 14, 1809, these two leaders, at the head of an
army of a thousand men, took the quartel of Cochabamba, the militia
refusing to resist the attack, with which it was in full sympathy.
The governor fled to Peru; and from all the country round, crowds of
patriots came, armed with whips and sticks, the only weapons they
possessed, eager to join in the revolution. Don Francisco del Rivero
was elected military and political chief. On September 19, 1810, in
open Cabildo, he was named governor, the dean of the cathedral church
of La Plata and the high ecclesiastics of Cochabamba officiating. A
patriotic curate, named Juan Bautista Oquendo, was the orator of the
cause, and, under the magic influence of his revolutionary speeches,
thousands flocked to the standard. Don Estevan Arze was appointed
general-in-chief of the revolutionary forces, and the campaign began by
a march on Oruro, resulting in the famous victory of Aroma, of which
the immortal Bartolomé Mitre said: “Heroic Cochabambans, that alone,
without arms, without generals, guided only by noble instinct and
generous enthusiasm, valorously displayed the flag of insurrection,
and seven days after the battle of Suipacha, armed only with clubs
and tin cannons made by themselves, and with a few firearms, set out
to meet the enemy, and in open field, man to man, defeated with blows
the disciplined and well-armed troops of the viceroy on the glorious
field of Aroma!” All through the war, the record made by Cochabamba
patriots was one of heroism and self-sacrifice; and in the subsequent
history of the republic the efforts of the people of this city toward
the establishment of political order and progress are written in many
successful reforms, entitling them to an important place in the annals
of national achievement.
[Illustration: CALLE COMERCIO, COCHABAMBA.]
Some of the country’s greatest presidents, most learned scholars, and
eminent divines have had their home in this charming city. Its society
shows the influence of inherited refinement and culture; and if there
are few evidences of great wealth, there are none of the deteriorating
effects of over-indulged luxury which so often contribute to make
society a mere fashionable show. When Cochabamba appears in promenade
on the plazas or the Alameda, the effect is much the same as on the
popular boulevards of London or Paris, but one hears nothing of the
“social whirl.” In a dignified and leisurely way, life’s blessings
are enjoyed, without extravagance or ostentation. It is true that
the automobile has invaded Cochabamba, and may be seen any afternoon
taking parties to the Alameda, to Cala-Cala, or to the colina of San
Sebastian; but there is no exciting effort to break the record in
speed, and motor-mania is as yet an unknown malady.
[Illustration: FEAST DAY OF SAN SEBASTIAN, COCHABAMBA.]
Cochabamba has six plazas, ornamented with trees and flowers and
arranged for the convenience of promenaders, the 14 de Setiembre,
Colón, San Sebastian, San Antonio, Gonzalez Velez, Santa Teresa,
Gerónimo de Osorio, and Matadero. The Plaza Colón, situated at the
head of the Alameda, is one of the prettiest parks in the city. The
Alameda, popularly called the Prado, extends from the Plaza Colón to
the river, and is the favorite driveway to Cala-cala on the opposite
bank. At almost any season of the year the Prado presents an animated
scene in the late afternoon and evening, when it is thronged with
people, especially on days of _fiesta_. It was inaugurated with
interesting ceremonies by General José Ballivian in 1848, and since
that time has been the scene of many important episodes in national
history. The Alameda is divided into five beautiful streets, which are
separated from one another by rows of willow trees, rosebushes, and
pretty shrubs. The central avenue is being beautified by fountains,
monuments, and flower beds. The streets on each side are for the use
of pedestrians, and the outside streets for driving and riding. On the
opposite side of the city the plaza of San Sebastian is situated, at
the foot of San Sebastian hill, but, unlike the Prado, it is almost
deserted except on January 20th and August 6th, when the races are held
there. San Sebastian, or, as it is called, Colina de San Sebastian, is
a sloping hillside, where the air is so fresh and pure, and the scenery
so beautiful, that everyone finds it a delightful resort. It has
historical interest also as the site on which the famous insurrection
of Calatayud broke out, in colonial days, when the news spread that
Spain intended to tax the _mestizos_ as well as the Indians in the
collecting of tribute. The Plaza Gonzalez Velez, generally known as the
Plaza de Toros, situated on the lower slope of the hill, is conspicuous
for the imposing edifice which is its central adornment, and which is
used as an arena for the bull fights. As this sport is not popular
in Cochabamba, the plaza is seldom frequented, though from the upper
windows of the building a magnificent view of the city and its suburbs
spreads out before one in a charming panorama.
[Illustration: PAVILION IN THE ALAMEDA, COCHABAMBA.]
The most important public buildings of Cochabamba are on or near
the Plaza 14 de Setiembre, which marks the centre of the city.
The Government Palace, Palace of Justice, Municipal Building, and
Prefectura, overlook this plaza, and are substantial structures,
well built and sufficiently commodious. The Cathedral also faces the
Plaza 14 de Setiembre, and is one of the handsomest edifices in the
city. It is chiefly interesting to strangers because of the works of
art to be seen among its treasures. The repentance of Saint Peter is
represented in a figure of natural size carved in wood, and there
is also a San Sebastian carved in wood, the Virgin of Lourdes, and
the Crucified Christ. The city is divided into four parishes, Santo
Domingo, La Compañia, San José, and San Antonio, each parish being in
charge of a curate and his assistants. The history of the Church in
colonial days was chiefly recorded in the benevolent and educational
work done through the various religious orders, and Cochabamba was once
an important centre, where the orders of San Agustin, San Francisco,
the Jesuits, and others had their headquarters. Only three of the
nine convents once existing in the city still remain, those of San
Francisco, Santa Clara, and Santa Teresa. The former convent of San
Agustin is now occupied by the theatre Achá, the temple and convent of
La Merced have been appropriated as a market place, and other convent
buildings are occupied as schools and hospitals. After the inauguration
of the republic all the convents for men were abolished and their
revenues applied to purposes of public instruction and charities. The
nunneries which still remain are nearly all educational institutions
as well as convents, and it is in these schools that the young ladies
of the city are educated. Cochabamba is especially noted for its many
churches and schools. In addition to the Cathedral, there are at
least nine churches and convents, and the city has twenty-six primary
schools, besides the university, two state schools, and the Colegio
Conciliar, for the training of advanced pupils in high school work. The
city has a public library of six thousand volumes of which two thousand
are old books, which formerly belonged to the monasteries, some of them
very valuable.
The public works of the city of Cochabamba have been improved during
the present administration, and not only in municipal, but departmental
affairs noted progress has been effected. The first observation which
a traveller makes upon approaching the city is that the highroads are
in splendid condition, showing that the prefect of the department has
given special attention to this branch of his administration. The
ex-prefect, Señor Dr. Isaac Aranibar, who was succeeded in office only
a few months ago by the distinguished soldier and statesman General
Zenón Cossío, accomplished many important reforms in the department,
and was indefatigable in his efforts to advance its progress. He
is now a deputy to the national Congress from that department, and
labors faithfully in behalf of its people. Dr. Aranibar is a prominent
statesman and politician, who, though one of the younger leaders, has
made his influence count in national affairs with great credit to his
judgment and patriotism.
As capital of the department, Cochabamba is the metropolis of a
territory covering two thousand square leagues, and having a population
of four hundred thousand. The department comprises ten provinces,
each of which has its capital city and is the centre of a flourishing
agricultural district. The provinces are Cercado, which includes the
suburbs of the department capital; Tapacarí, of which Quillacollo is
the capital, only a few miles distant from the city of Cochabamba
over a road which leads through a magnificent avenue of shade trees
along the entire route; Arque, with its pretty little capital,
Capinota; Campero, of which Aiquile is the flourishing centre; Ayopaya,
celebrated for the gold mines of Choquecamata; and the provinces of
Mizque, Tarata, Totora, Punata, and Chaparé. Every climate may be
experienced in a trip through the provinces of this department, from
the cold which is never modified on the snowclad summit of Tunari, and
the perennial springtime of more sheltered slopes and ravines, to the
equatorial heat of the lower valleys and wooded plains that mark the
more tropical waterways of the Amazon system. The influence of climate
is seen in the vegetation, which is of the most varied character. On
the high _puna_, at an altitude above twelve thousand feet as
encountered along the road from Cochabamba to Mizque, vegetation is
scant, though even here the farmer grows corn, barley, potatoes, and
a comparatively new product called _quinua_, more nutritious
and cheaper than wheat, for which it serves as a substitute. It is
cultivated on all the high plateaus, and is increasing in favor as a
staple food. On the slopes of the Cordilleras, Nature has made abundant
provision for human needs, and every kind of agricultural product is
harvested in plenty. Wheat, corn, beans, and a great variety of fruits
are cultivated in the milder zones, and in the more tropical sections
of the provinces of Chaparé and Totora coffee, cacao, quinine, sugar
cane, rice, _camote_,--a yellow potato of delicious flavor, which
has the appearance of the sweet potato,--as well as all tropical
fruits grow in abundance. The _chirimoya_, in English called
custard-apple, arrives at its highest perfection in this region, and
the _palta_, elsewhere known as the alligator pear, and which
in Mexico is called _aguacate_, is of delicious flavor. The
_granadilla_, a peculiar fruit which looks something like a small
orange with a hard, smooth skin, and is composed of a mass of seeds in
a juicy, glutinous white pulp, is very refreshing, either as eaten,
seeds and all, or made into a refreshing beverage. The province of
Mizque is noted for its wine, though only the most primitive methods
are used in viticulture, and the industry has never reached the degree
of development which is possible under more favorable conditions. The
Yuracarés, as the Yungas of Cochabamba are called, produce coca, cacao,
tobacco, rice, and quinine, the chief shipping centre for all these
products being the capital city of Cochabamba, from which they are
distributed to their final destination.
[Illustration: CHURCH OF SAN PEDRO, COCHABAMBA.]
The city of Cochabamba presents a busy appearance when the cargoes of
produce arrive from the farms and forests of the interior, and it is
not unusual for a street to be blockaded by one of these caravans.
Large importing and exporting houses usually receive the products and
direct their shipment. Not only do the surrounding provinces supply
the market with some of the most important food stuffs and medicinal
products, but from the hills are taken the marble, stone, clay, lime,
sand, and other building materials used in the construction of the
city’s most modern edifices. _Berenguela_, a native marble of
great value and beauty, having something of the appearance of old
ivory, is used a great deal for ornamental purposes. The attention
of foreign travellers has been especially attracted to the excellent
properties of _berenguela_ and to the superior quality of all
the building materials found in this department. The facilities for
construction which the proximity of these materials affords is no
doubt responsible to some degree for the handsome buildings that have
been erected within recent years, among others, several for purposes of
manufacture. Cochabamba is adding annually to the number and importance
of its manufacturing establishments. Excellent saddles and harnesses
are made here, leather is tanned, boots and shoes are manufactured,
the weaving of _ponchos_ of delicate silk and woollen fabrics is
a special art, and in the country districts butter making is among
the industries. A number of factories produce on a limited scale the
more necessary articles of daily use, such as soap, candles, glass,
etc. The breweries of the city turn out a million bottles of beer
annually, and there are hat factories, wool and cotton factories,
and a silkworm establishment. The silk is of a superior quality, the
cocoons being white or yellow in color. The larvæ show the most robust
health and strength, mulberry trees seeming to grow particularly well
in this climate, and to afford the greatest possible nutrition to the
silkworms. Cochabamba is quite celebrated for its lace making, and
visitors to the city usually spend some time in examining the beautiful
designs of the pieces offered for sale in the market. Many of the
lace-trimmed articles are of the coarsest cotton material, but the
workmanship is marvellous, and it is not unusual to see the poorest
vendor wearing a petticoat bordered with lace a half a yard deep,
made by herself. On feast days the _cholas_ wear dozens of these
petticoats, starched so stiffly that they make the skirt stand out like
a balloon, and in Cochabamba, though less conspicuously than in La Paz,
the _cholas’_ petticoats represent their chief wealth. Beautiful
lace scarfs, lace edgings of the finest design, and lace curtains are
made by the natives. Among the very poor some such industry is usually
adopted to provide a source of revenue for the family aside from the
wages earned by the husband, and in the humblest little hut there is
generally a frame for weaving _ponchos_ or a cushion for lace
making, as most of the lace is made on cushions by means of bobbins and
pins, though crocheted laces are also seen. As a rule, these humble
homes are the abode of content, and they are wonderful examples of how
little is needed to make the poor happy, where they do not have to
face daily the terrible struggle which is waged by the less fortunate
in large European and North American cities. There is a haven of
promise for the emigrant in the glorious climate and fertile valleys of
Cochabamba, and he will find a welcome here if he is industrious and
honest, no matter what his nationality.
Cochabamba is growing, in spite of occasional dull seasons, which
usually affect the progress of an agricultural community. The
authorities of the municipality are doing all in their power to improve
this beautiful city, and to provide modern conveniences wherever
possible. A street car system is to be built which will connect the
city with Quillacollo and other suburban towns, and improvements are
to be made in lighting and otherwise providing for the comfort of the
citizens. The driveway which leads to Cala-cala is being beautified
and made more attractive, and the public baths are to be enlarged and
improved.
Cala-cala is the most beautiful suburb of Cochabamba, and is the
popular residence quarter for many of the leading families, and for
nearly all the foreigners of the city. The European population is
small, but it represents many countries, English, German, French, and
other nationalities being counted among its leading citizens. One of
the most attractive _chacras_ in Cala-cala is owned by a North
American, Mr. Oscar Ehrhorn, of San Francisco, California, who has
lived in Cochabamba many years and is enthusiastic over the climate
and the future business prospects of this section, which he regards
as the garden spot of Bolivia. Others express the same opinion and
predict a very prosperous future for this city, which some day will
be one of the richest industrial centres of South America. Foreigners
are treated with the greatest consideration and have equal privileges
with the natives of the country. The completion of the new railway
between Cochabamba and Oruro means a great deal to the people of this
department, as it will serve to bring them at least three days nearer
to the coast, and will place their rich products in many more markets
than formerly. Whether in intellectual attainment or in material
progress, Cochabamba has always been able to keep a leading place among
the cities of Bolivia, and it is certain that her people will continue
to maintain the title so often bestowed upon her as the “Athens of
Bolivia” and the “Garden City.”
[Illustration: LOVERS’ TREE IN CALA-CALA, COCHABAMBA.]
[Illustration: CACHIMAYO HACIENDA, NEAR SUCRE.]