In order to reach the train, we had to first climb over ice-covered

freight cars, which stood between the passenger train and platform.

The night was dark, the tracks were coated with ice, and everything

was slippery. But we managed to transfer all the colonel’s belongings,

and left him with a guttering candle in his compartment. A Chinese

colonel and his interpreter were put in with him, and the train pulled

out for Vladivostok. Werkstein and I went back to our hotel, and to

bed. We represented the United States in Chita. The next morning two of

Semenoff’s officers were found assassinated in the streets--their backs

had been blown out in the frozen fog of the night before.

XV

ATAMAN SEMENOFF

It will be remembered by the reader that the officer whom I relieved at

Chita, feared assassination. I have no reason to believe that he did

not have good grounds for his fears. Naturally, I assumed that I was

taking over his dangers, when I took his post. And despite the presence

of Semenoff’s army, and his armored train in the railroad yards, there

was a feeling of uneasiness in the city. Sentries were posted in the

centers of the streets, and kept their little fires burning every

night. There were rumors every day that the Bolshevists in the city

were about to rise and slay, or that Bolshevist bands were going to

swoop down upon us from some other city, and complete the destruction

they had begun before Semenoff drove them away.

[Illustration: ATAMAN SEMENOFF, CHIEF OF THE TRANS-BAIKAL COSSACKS]

[Illustration: MONGOL AND TARTAR DESCENDANTS OF CONQUERING HORDES WITH

1919 MODEL “CARS”]

And the fact that the man who threw the bomb at Semenoff in the

theatre was a private in one of the Ataman’s infantry regiments, kept

the officers on the alert. The bomb-thrower, who said his name was

Bernbaum, was reported to have confessed coming from Irkutsk where he

had drawn the number which delegated to him the killing of the Ataman.

He asserted that he had been instructed by the “Maximalists” or

Bolshevists, to go to Chita and join Semenoff’s army, and wait his

chance to kill. His bomb killed a woman in the Ataman’s box, and

wounded several men, the Ataman suffering several wounds from bits of

the bomb.

There were stories of mutinies among Semenoff’s troops, and there were

whisperings that all of Semenoff’s officers were not loyal. Most of his

men were mercenaries anyhow, and the bulk of his forces was made up of

Mongols, Buriats, some Russians who were truly anti-Bolshevist, and

many who had wisely attached themselves to an organization which gave

food, clothing and shelter in exchange for carrying a rifle and doing

guard duty.

When the bomb was thrown from the gallery, one of Semenoff’s officers

jumped up and cried: “I will have everybody in the gallery shot, if you

will give the order, Ataman!”

“No, no, we must not do that!” replied the stricken Ataman. But there

were many arrests, and shortly afterward there were several executions.

Later, the actual bomb-thrower was arrested while escaping toward

Blagoveschensk. I never learned his fate, but heard that he had given

several names to the Ataman’s officers, and that the men mentioned were

not far from Chita. I suspect that on one of the nights I was being

banqueted, there was a shooting party.

I had sent word to the staff that when the Ataman had recovered, I

wished to pay a formal call. We had not recognized Semenoff as an

official governmental head, yet we did make calls on him, just as we

talked with anybody who could give us an inkling as to what was going

on. Instructions were in general to meet everybody on a friendly basis,

but to take no sides.

One evening I got word that the Ataman would see me. I set out for his

residence with a Russian civilian agent, who had come from Manila with

the expedition. His name was Nicholas Romanoff, a name which amused

many of the Cossack officers.

But Mr. Romanoff knew the Ataman intimately, and Mr. Romanoff kindly

suggested to me the things I should say to the Ataman, just as no doubt

he suggested to the Ataman what the Ataman should say to me. This state

of affairs indicates to some extent the ease and ability of American

officers getting an absolute American viewpoint on Russian affairs, and

the Russian and Cossack officers being able to understand fully the

American attitude.

I considered it about as satisfactory a proceeding, for Russian and

American interests, as getting a kiss through a plate-glass window.

I imagine that the interpreters got satisfaction, for they were

automatically turned into diplomats, and controlled both sides. And the

power granted them, made it possible for them to reflect the point of

view from which they might acquire for themselves the most prestige.

But in the case of Mr. Romanoff, there was every evidence that he

displayed discretion and tact. He was the personal interpreter of the

Chief of Intelligence, who had brought him to Siberia from Manila. And

Mr. Romanoff had known Siberia well before he had changed it as a place

of residence, for the Philippines.

At that season of the year we lost the sun about four thirty in the

afternoon, and it was getting quite dark as we approached the Ataman’s

residence. We were halted by the sentry, and on explaining our mission,

were admitted to the hall. Here we were met by officers of the Ataman’s

personal staff, and after the usual bowing, and heel-clicking, left our

furs, and were ushered into a large drawing-room. The room was richly

and tastefully furnished. The high-posted walls were hung with splendid

tapestries, and the floor beautifully carpeted.

There were a few pieces of black furniture, which appeared to be of the

ornately-carven Chinese variety. The whole effect was more oriental

than Cossack, though of course the real Cossack is probably more

oriental than anything else. And, in fact, I had heard that Semenoff

was more of a Mongolian than a Cossack, being according to report, a

Prince of Van. The only place of which I know named Van is in European

Turkey, though there may be a Van in Mongolia.

The Ataman entered, on crutches. I saw a stockily-built man, of

medium height, wearing Prussian blue trousers rather small at the

bottoms of the legs, suggestive of being habitually worn with boots.

He had on slippers. His face was heavily-jowled, very dark, his chin

chubbily-protuberant in the Rubens style. He wore heavy drooping black

mustaches, his black eyes keen and somewhat suspicious, his hair

suggestive of scantness on top, and a Napoleonic lock down over his

low, broad forehead.

His photographs were always made so as to bring out his Napoleonic

points, which I had heard he prided himself upon. He was credited with

carrying a book in his pocket which told how Napoleon acted in every

situation which required a decision, and that when he had to decide

anything, he first consulted the book. Evidently my visit brought up no

point which required a Napoleonic decision--at least, I did not see him

consult the book while I was there.

I was bowed to a chair, and the Ataman let himself down gently on a

couch. He seemed a trifle worried, but he may have been oppressed by

pain. He had only recently induced the banks of Chita to loan him

several million rubles to pay off his army--and a local banker had

called on me that day. After we had talked a little, and I had told the

Ataman that I had heard of his ability as an organizer and leader of

armies, and of his prowess in battle, he appeared relieved, and pulled

the lock on his forehead down a bit more.

The lady who presided over his Chita household came in. The slight view

I took of her as I rose and bowed, leaves me no recollections. Even

had I desired to be courteous to a woman in her position, discretion

counselled as little notice as possible.

I had heard that more than one Russian officer with an admiring eye for

“wives” of other officers, had been picked up dead in the streets. A

sharp look from the Ataman, and the hostess did not linger. I remember

that she did not have on the pearl necklace for which the Ataman was

said to have paid several hundred thousand rubles in Harbin, at a time

when he was short of money for his troops. His domestic régime was

reputed to cost him as much for upkeep as his army. Perhaps, after all,

I was not introduced to the lady who got the pearls.

I had a cigar, and we talked of safe trifles. I was there some twenty

minutes. And as we passed through the line of sentries about the

Ataman’s palace-like mansion, into the cold crisp air, I saw on the

plain below, thousands of lights burning in rude log huts. It was all

so typical of Asia--few palaces and many huts. One man, with an army at

his back, “borrowing” from the banks to cast pearl before swine. What

better conditions to breed Bolshevism? But the same conditions exist

among the leaders of the Bolshevists, who merely play the mobs against

the military exploiters of the people, to get control of the banks and

the money, and to have wealth for spending in the same style. Thus the

ignorance of the people prevent them from escaping exploitation in some

form or another. We of the United States think that it will be settled

by waiting for the people to organize themselves, so that they may

express their will. It is a case of waiting till new generations have

been educated.

People have said to me: “There maybe disorder now in Siberia, but I

believe that the common people know what they are doing, and will do

what they want to do.”

They know what they are doing in the same style that the country yokel

at home knows what he is doing when he goes to New York and buys at

bargain prices several lots in Central Park. The difference between

what he is doing, and what he thinks he is doing, costs him dearly.

The Bolshevists the world over are in the hands of a crafty lot of

confidence men.

XVI

FAMINE IN CHITA

There had been much discussion at home in the newspapers about famine

in Siberia, and in Vladivostok this fear of famine was uppermost in the

minds of diplomats, military chiefs, and civilian relief agencies. In

fact, there was every evidence in Vladivostok that the inland cities of

Siberia were already suffering from hunger, and with a severe winter

ahead, there was much apprehension for the country people.

The refugees pouring into Vladivostok, clamoring for food, depicted a

state of starvation in the towns from which they had come. And data

on food-prices gleaned from refugees and the inland press, as well

as reports by travellers, all combined to strengthen the belief that

famine faced the whole country.

And my first meals in Chita made me suspect that there was much truth

in the reports that Mother Hubbardsky’s cupboard was bare. I went to

dinner with my chief the first evening in the city. We sought the best

restaurant and scanned its menu with care; and after considerable pains

we were able to order a meal--a modest one--at a cost of about twelve

rubles each. Our rubles had cost us a dollar for eight in Vladivostok.

So our dinner amounted to a dollar and a half each. Then we spied four

scrawny, spotted little apples pyramided on a plate on the counter. We

ordered them, ate them, and asked for our bill. The apples alone had

cost us thirty-six rubles--or a dollar and twelve cents each!

An officer has to pay for his own food. In Vladivostok at the officers’

mess, three meals a day cost a dollar and a quarter. In Chita, six

dollars a day, without apples, was the prospect ahead. My orderly was

allowed a dollar and a quarter a day for his subsistence. With that, he

could buy exactly one poor meal. The situation was rapidly losing its

humorous aspect. After all, was Vladivostok right about that famine?

Yet all along the line I had seen an abundance of food for people who

seemed to be eating all the time. Evidently there was a wrench in the

machinery somewhere. It was a case of “Who’s looney now?”

We stocked up immediately with rye bread, cheese and dried fish--all

purchased, the orderly said, from peasant women near the station.

The faithful Werkstein had brought with him a little sugar, some

tea, chocolate in bars, and a few cans of army beef. He turned my

wardrobe in the hotel room into a pantry; and with a samovar from the

kitchen, prepared my meals. It was well below freezing in the room,

and I usually wore my furs. There were forests all around the city.

But no one could be hired to cut wood. Was not everybody free? (How I

wished that our Congress would ship me a consignment of those parlor

Bolshevists who were in the United States preaching the beauties of

Bolshevism!)

One evening, some of Semenoff’s officers asked me to go to their

garrison mess. “A little Russian supper,” they explained rather

apologetically. The supper began at nine. We sat down at a tremendous

table covered with dishes, and glasses in groups. There was a startling

array of bottles. Presently a delicious soup was served. Then came

soldier-servants bearing great salvers on which were fishes the size

of young whales--decorated with fantastically carved vegetables. Next

arrived coveys of quail and partridge. Viands strange and barbaric

followed--dishes that suggested China and Arabia, others of Cossack

origin. O shade of Lucullus! O Herbert Hoover!

The Cossack band in an adjoining room played national airs. The

different kinds of glasses were emptied in as many toasts. And to my

great relief, the speeches began. I say relief, because naturally, I

thought the meal was over. Not so. Still the heaped salvers came. By

now, I had reached the point where I could only weakly pretend to eat.

My hosts watched me like hawks, insisting that I rally my appetite.

They showed irritation when I demurred faintly. They demanded that I

eat and drink to prove the unlimited friendship of the United States

for Russia. And I wondered how our diplomats had ever survived the

hospitality of such a country.

At last I saw that my only hopes lay in a limit to the Cossack

capacity. Again and again, I told myself, “They have reached

it!”--only to realize that what I had suffered was but a prelude to the

feast.

At about three in the morning, the vodka and wines having been

exhausted, champagne was served--in large, stein-like glasses. And a

British officer who had just come to observe conditions, was startled

when Irish porter showed up in stone jars. “Why!” he exclaimed, “We

don’t have this at home any more! In England it’s a fond memory. And

here they have it by the case!”

A little supper! And there was one such about every night. I had come

looking for famine: I began to fear I would die of over eating. One

could be forgiven a chuckle. The staff in Vladivostok had expressed

some remorse over having to send me away from a mess which boasted

three courses and a choice of two canned fruits for dessert!

But what about the proletariat of Chita? These officers were eating,

but were the poor starving to death in cold weather? I visited the

open-air free market in a square of the city. The peasants were selling

cabbage, dried salmon, salmon-roe, spheres of cheese, rye and white

bread in tremendous loaves, quail, partridge, pheasant, beef, pork,

sausage, frozen milk and frozen soup--precisely the things I had eaten

at the “little supper.”

The prices ran high. But--the people had plenty of Bolshevist money.

However, this money was greatly depreciated in value. Nevertheless,

the vendors at the market expected as many of my Imperial rubles for

any purchase as they asked the residents of the city, who, of course,

had local currency. So now I understood that the apple which I had

bought in the restaurant at a dollar and twelve cents (or nine Imperial

roubles), would, at nine roubles Bolshevist money, have cost a resident

of Chita, only about ten cents. What had happened to me, can best be

expressed in this wise: A man takes silver dollars to a city where

disks have been stamped “One dollar,” and where the merchants do not

care whether he gives them tin or silver--the price is the same! So

the apples were not high; the explanation is that money was plentiful

and cheap. And now I understood why Vladivostok was worrying over

interior statistics. The department heads mistook high costs reported

in Bolshevist rubles, for lack of food.

But those statistics related mainly to sugar, tea, salt, candles and

other staples, commonly regarded as necessities, but turned by the

speculators into luxuries. Most of the Siberian speculators are of the

pack-peddler variety, because freight shipments are costly, and the

goods liable to loss. One Chita shipper paid seventy-five thousand

rubles for a car in Harbin to move sugar to the Trans-Baikal. The

engineer got one thousand rubles to haul it; the conductor of the train

got one thousand rubles to insure the car’s being cut off at Chita;

and I heard that the side-track was rented to the shipper while the

car was being unloaded. He assured me that he had doubled his money

in spite of paying so much “grease.” But the railroad men, who are

opposed to “Exploitation of the masses,” thought they were making the

capitalistic speculator pay the “grease!” Those railroad men had not

been paid for six months, and some of us Allied officers worried about

it, and gave the crews credit for staunch loyalty to the Russian cause

by sticking to their jobs. Also, a large Red Cross train went up the

line and presented these poor, starving magnates who ran the trains,

with new clothing!

Captain B----, a Russian serving Semenoff, invited me to his room

in the hotel for tea. His wife brought from the wardrobe baskets of

cookies and candies. Trunks disgorged tinned fish, bar chocolate and

tinned milk. In one corner of the room was a sack of sugar; in another

were sacks of flour. Those living quarters resembled a corner in the

warehouse of a wholesale grocer. And everybody was stocked up like

that. Moreover, they all had orders with the local dealers to send them

more provisions whenever more arrived. It was a case of everybody his

own grocer. I had found the Chita stores bare. No wonder.

I never saw any famine in Siberia. In fact, the only place that I

heard it discussed was in Vladivostok. There, the flocks of refugees,

seeking free food and shelter, were responsible for the belief in it.

No doubt many of them did need aid--especially the women and children.

And in the handling of those needy, our Red Cross did gallant service.

But among the refugees were hundreds of able-bodied men who found it

pleasant to be refugees. These men were not likely to report that the

districts from which they came were plentifully supplied with food.

And as these men kept pouring in from all parts of the country, a

consolidation of their reports presented a false picture of conditions.

What I looked for in the interior of Siberia, contrasted with what

I found, was happily, if ridiculously, disappointing. But in 1920 a

similar hunt might result less humorously. To feed men stops their

work; to stop work stops production. And lack of production spells

future need. So next year,--who knows?--it may be possible to find

famine in Siberia--if meanwhile the people of that country consume

their total reserves on the strength of our promise of generous aid.

In my humble opinion, the United States should avoid, in Siberia, all

Christmas-Tree talk.

XVII

NEW YEAR WITH THE JAPANESE

New Year’s Day, 1919, began for me at fifteen minutes after midnight,

with a thunderous knocking at the glass door of my room. This was

rather disconcerting, for there had been rumors the night before that

the Bolshevists were going to rise in the city, and slay. The glass

door, with its colored paper stuck in the panes, was not ideal for

siege purposes; but it had certain advantages, in that I could shoot

through it while the Bolshevists were breaking it in.

I got out of bed without making any reply to the summons. I had opened

the tiny trap-door in the wall which served as a ventilator, and the

room was well chilled, for there was no heat in the radiators. It was

about fifty below zero outside--and about the same inside.

Turning on the electric drop-light at my desk, I put on my purple

dressing-gown, and slipped my automatic into its pocket. Then I

unlocked and threw open the door, stepping discreetly to one side, a

habit one soon acquires in a country so free and equal as Siberia.

The hall was quite dark. I made out a figure close at hand, and in

the light from my electric lamp I caught the gleam of gold shoulder

straps. A Russian officer clicked his heels, bowed, and spoke my name

in good English.

I bade him enter, supposing he was an officer sent by the Ataman. But

he had just reached Chita by special train from Omsk, and was bound for

Vladivostok. He came to tell me of a Bolshevist uprising in Omsk, some

ten days before, which had been put down. Many Bolshevist prisoners

released from the prisons by their friends outside, had been shot.

This news did not surprise me at the time. I had been told three

weeks before that the Bolshevists would rise in Omsk on that very

date, release the prisoners, and attack the Kolchak garrison. I made

an effort to recall who had foretold the uprising, and remembered a

drosky-driver who spoke English with whom I had drunk tea in a station

down the line. On the supposition that he was merely boasting for my

benefit when he claimed to be closely in touch with the Bolshevists,

I had let the story pass as idle talk, for if one attempted to report

all rumors, a dozen secretaries would be required by every officer in

the country. But now I realized that the drosky-driver was in reality

in the confidence of the Bolshevist leaders at Omsk, several thousand

versts away. He had foretold the exact date of the uprising now

reported to me.

My Russian officer’s train had encountered Bolshevists at two stations,

and from the second his train had been run back for the purpose of

reinforcing his guard. When he ran down the line again to where his

progress had been opposed, he got through without difficulty, for in

the meantime the Bolshevists had been driven away.

Having warned me of these facts, he was obliged to hasten back to his

train. With a click and a handshake he was away, and I went back to

bed, not quite sure I had not dreamed a chapter from a book with a

Prisoner of Zenda flavor.

I shivered myself to sleep, having been chilled to the bone while I

listened to the adventures of the Russian officer, and carried on, as

the British say, till Werkstein came thumping at my door at eight to

tell me that I must hurry to catch a train for a New Year’s celebration

at a station some sixty versts away, where some of Semenoff’s garrison

was to make merry. Of course, it was thirteen days before the Russian

New Year, but the Cossack never misses an excuse to celebrate anything.

I found myself with a violent headache, due to having taken cold while

sitting directly under the ventilating trap, which I had forgotten to

close while I talked with the Russian officer. Doubtless his haste to

get back to his train was induced by the terribly cold air flowing into

my room, but he had been too polite to call my attention to the open

trap. He must have thought me most inhospitable.

The prospect of going away to a celebration was not alluring as I

looked out the window and saw Chita almost completely hidden by a

frozen fog. It was nearly sixty below zero, and rapidly getting colder.

Werkstein ordered the samovar, and I had tea in bed. I do not wonder

that the Russians drink so much tea. We drank it all the time in

Chita, and my ordinary day’s tea-drinking ran as high as thirty hot

glasses. The effect was not good on my nerves, and I discovered that I

had become garrulous. Tea and much talk go together, which is why the

Russian produces conversation in great quantities.

Mr. S----, the missionary Y. M. C. A. man, came to kindly offer

his services as an interpreter in case I would go to General Oba’s

reception at his headquarters at eleven. I am afraid that Mr. S----

suspected the towel the faithful Werkstein had insisted on putting

about my head, but he was too broad-minded a gentleman to hint at his

suspicions.

The Oba reception lured me. It was but a couple of blocks away, and if

I still felt badly when I got there, could leave and return to bed.

So I got up and shaved, and dug out a white shirt. After all, a white

shirt is a wonderful thing, especially if it comes out of a package

wrapped by one’s wife on the other side of the world, and redolent of a

subtle but familiar perfume.

I also decided to discard temporarily the tremendous boots I had been

wearing, and got out my dress boots and spurs, considering them the

only fitting footwear with a white shirt and stock. Besides, a soldier

on a diplomatic mission cuts rather a sorry figure unless he can

produce the proper metallic click with his heels.

Siberia To-Day · 第 9 / 19 段