PETS
$Cavies or Guinea Pigs.$--In starting these little chats, suppose we
commence with cavies. Some who ought to know better have said that
cavies are very dull, stupid little animals, but I entirely disagree
with this, as will also the lad who has kept them for ever so short a
time; they are bright, intelligent little fellows, and most pleasant to
make pets of, and although they belong to the rodent or rat family are
not the least vicious. Cavies are extremely clean in their habits, very
handsome in colour, and if their little houses are kept clean there is
no disagreeable smell from them.
Now before you buy your "guineas" you should build and furnish their
house, and I will proceed to tell you how to do this. The selection
of a suitable place comes first. If you live in the country there is
generally an outhouse or wood-shed, and if so here is the spot to
commence operations; if, on the other hand, you only have a small
garden or back-yard, then select a spot in it which gets a fair share
of pure air and sunlight, and which is protected from the cruel east
winds. The smooth-haired cavy must have a hutch not less than 2 ft.
long, 18 to 20 in. from front to back, and about the same height.
Let the floor of your hutch have a slight fall to the back so as to
carry off the moisture; the roof must also have a slope, and should be
covered with tarred felt, or brown paper well tarred and sanded, which
makes a capital waterproof covering. In the front of your hutch have
a closely and well-fitting wooden door, large enough for you to clean
out the interior comfortably; the other portion of the front must be
covered with wire netting of a very close mesh. Be sure that your doors
fasten securely, as some cavies have a habit of shaking them, and if
not properly secured, open comes the door and out drops poor guinea,
who is almost sure to be killed. It is always best to have the hutch
two or three feet from the ground, and resting on four legs, which is
much better than nailing it to the wall. After having got so far, go
carefully over your work to see that there are no cracks or crannies in
your hutch, as these let in draughts, which lead to disease and death.
Cover the floor of the hutch with fine sawdust, and over this some
sweet chopped hay, and your house is ready for its occupants.
Without going fully into the history of the cavy, I may say that it is
a native of South America, where in many parts it is very numerous. In
its wild state the cavy, where the ground is suitable, burrows like
a rabbit; in damp, marshy places it hides under the many plants that
flourish in such neighbourhoods. They are not difficult to catch, and
not being of a savage nature are easily tamed. In their native haunts
they are greatly esteemed as an article of food, and although I have
never had the pleasure of tasting cavy flesh, I am told by those who
have, and who are well able to give an opinion, that it is delicious;
and I see no reason to doubt it, as cavies are exceedingly cleanly in
their habits and feeding.
There are several varieties of cavies, and as these are bred in almost
every colour they afford the greatest pleasure, not only to the lad who
is fond of experimenting, but also to hundreds of men and women. That
the various colours can be easily bred and well fixed, has been proved
beyond doubt by the many handsome little specimens that are to be seen
at any of our exhibitions to-day. As we have them now, we may for
our purpose divide the cavy into three classes or divisions, namely,
long-haired (Peruvians), rough-haired (Abyssinian), and smooth-haired;
but before going on with their description I would like to say a word
as to handling them. This may seem superfluous, but it is not so, as
they are easily injured; therefore, when you have occasion to lift your
pet put your finger and thumb of the right hand round its neck, not
tightly, but sufficiently firm to hinder it slipping, gently raise it
and place it on your left hand, and so it can be safely lifted about
and handled. In mating your cavies remember that the boar (male)
controls the colour and outward characteristics of the future family,
consequently he should be as typical in colour and shape as possible,
and not younger than ten or twelve months; the sow (female) must not
be less than about six months old, and in selecting her see that she
is very tame and gentle, as she gives the inward characteristics to
the young ones. Of course, in keeping cavies, as in any other variety
of pets, a very great deal depends on the individual fancy, and,
therefore, I shall give a short description of the three classes
mentioned, and leave you boys to select which you think will give you
the greatest pleasure.
THE PERUVIAN CAVY.--The Peruvian cavy is noted for its long hair, which
is its chief characteristic, and when nicely combed and brushed it
would be hard to find a handsomer little fellow. The hair grows right
over its head and face, so that it is sometimes difficult to see either
its eyes or ears; yet its beautiful bright eyes are always on the look
out, and can see you and all your movements. On the body the hair grows
to such a length that it trails on the ground, some actually having it
as long as seven or eight inches. The hair or fur should be as long,
soft, and silky as possible, and to keep it in proper order a good deal
of attention is necessary; it grows very evenly from a natural parting,
from the crown of the head to the stern, falling over to each side, and
to keep your pet neat and trim as well as healthy you must brush its
coat regularly, using a soft brush, and if any part is matted take a
wide-toothed comb and very gently comb it out. You boys know what it is
to comb your hair when it is matted, and how it hurts if roughly done.
Remember, therefore, that without care you will not only cause your pet
pain, but, as the fur or hair on it is only, comparatively speaking,
slightly attached to the skin, carelessness will result in pulling it
out, thus leaving bare and unsightly patches. If, however, the brush is
regularly used, there will be little or no need of the comb.
THE ABYSSINIAN CAVY.--The next variety that claims our notice is the
quaint little Abyssinian or rough-haired cavy. Unlike the Peruvian, the
hair of the Abyssinian is short and hard or rough to the touch, and
instead of growing all one way it is rosetted, as it were, in bunches,
each rosette or bunch being separate and distinct, and the more evenly
these are distributed over the body the more charming the result.
What do my readers think of one of these little fellows--a beautiful
tortoiseshell, very well rosetted, and with short, hard hair, being
sold for upwards of £30? But such is a fact. It was bred by a lady who
takes a very great interest in Master Cavy, and who exhibits some most
beautiful specimens, and it was disposed of for the sum mentioned. The
Abyssinian is a hardy little chap and must not be "coddled" up in a
warm hutch. Keep him dry and sheltered from draughts and he will thrive
merrily.
SMOOTH-HAIRED CAVIES.--Last, but not least in any shape or form, comes
the smooth-haired variety, which you boys all know, I am sure, and
which is, as it fully deserves to be, the favourite. The coat of the
smooth-haired cavy is soft and velvety to the touch, and the immense
number of colours in which it is now bred makes it a most delightful
little pet. I will not go through the many different colours further
than to mention that we have them black, white, golden, brown, grey,
red, and the various sub-divisions and blendings between these colours.
The cavy has a good-sized head, is Roman-nosed, has a very thick, or
bull, neck, and a nicely rounded body, tapering towards the stern;
eyes full and bright, and small, neatly-shaped ears; his whole make-up
giving him the appearance of a cheerful, happy, and contented little
fellow.
Now, as to feeding, remember that regularity and cleanliness must be
observed, and that a variety or change in food is very much relished,
and is necessary for the health of your cavies. For breakfast, which
give early, provide some bread and milk sop, in which now and again
put a piece of boiled potato; and as a change, in cold weather some
barley-meal, scalded in boiling water and made into a nice crumbly
mass. This latter is very warm and comforting, too, for supper, in cold
frosty weather. As dry food, you must have good sound oats, wheat,
a few crushed peas, bran, and hay. Green food must on no account
be overlooked, as it is one of the most valuable things for keeping
the blood cool and the stomach in proper working order; but remember
that all green food _must be fresh_ and dry. Almost any green stuff
is relished, but there are a few kinds that are very good: lettuce,
cabbage leaves (not too many), parsley, celery tops, carrot, turnip,
beet-root, chickweed, groundsel, and chicory. Clean water must be
always at hand, and a drink of milk now and then is much appreciated.
As cavies are very apt to scratch their food all over the hutch, and
so waste a lot of it, you should always feed in dishes or troughs.
The heavy earthenware troughs, with flanged edges, which are used for
rabbits, are best, as they cannot be upset, nor the food scratched out
easily. I prefer earthenware to any other material, as it is so easily
cleansed, and there is nothing about it that will poison or give a
disagreeable taste to the food. Though water and dry food should always
be at hand for your cavies, never leave soft food or greens long in the
hutch, as these soon become tainted, and if eaten in that state bring
on disease. Let them eat their fill of soft food and greens, and then
take away any that is left. The lad who pays proper attention to his
pets will soon be able to gauge to a nicety the amount of food they
require.
$Rabbits.$--If you have sufficient pocket-money you can buy a hutch
ready-made, or you can build it on similar lines to that for cavies,
but of course much larger.
For ordinary-sized rabbits a hutch 3-1/2 ft. long by 20 or 22 in. will
do, but for lop-eared and Belgians it should be 4-1/2 ft. by 2 ft.;
whilst for Flemish giants 5 ft. by 2 ft. It is always preferable to
have your hutch in some outhouse, where, though the inmates will have
plenty of fresh air, they will be protected from very cold winds and
rain. As there is a deal of moisture from rabbits, it is a good plan to
have the floor of the outhouse cemented and connected with a drain, so
as to carry off the wet that comes from the hutches; but as this cannot
always be managed by boys who keep a few rabbits as pets, you should
have a piece of guttering fixed along the back of the hutch and so
placed that it will drain into a pail, in which put some sawdust and a
little disinfectant, which will keep down any unpleasant smell. This
pail you must empty every two or three days. In every hutch I like a
part of it boarded off as a sleeping-room, which can be easily done by
making a wooden partition and slipping it into the hutch, allowing a
space of 12 inches for this purpose. This partition must have a hole
cut in it large enough for the rabbits to pop in and out comfortably.
Over this part of the hutch you must have a well-fitting wooden door,
not only to keep them warm, but to darken the nest and so make them
comfortable. In giving your rabbits their food, remember that you
cannot measure the quantity exactly, any more than you can say that
because you have eaten so much to-day you will want exactly so much
to-morrow and every day during the week. Study and observation are the
only true guides. In giving soft food and green food let them have as
much as they eat up _greedily_ and no more. Feed twice a day, as early
as possible in the morning and about sundown. In the morning give soft
food, such as barley-meal, pollard, sharps, middlings, and bran, which
mix with scalding water into a soft, rather crumbly than sticky mess. A
few tea-leaves in the soft food now and then is a nice change.
Of course, these foods must not be all mixed together, but given on
different mornings, so as to provide a nice variety. As there is not
much feeding in bran it should always have one of the other foods mixed
in it.
When they have had breakfast put sufficient corn into their troughs
to last them all day to nibble at, and for this oats are best; but as
a change, once or twice a week crack up some barley for them. A feed,
once a week, of grey peas, steeped till well soaked, will also be much
relished. Bits of biscuit and dry, stale crusts are also good, and can
be given at any meal. For the evening feed give a bit of sweet hay,
dry, sweet clover, and green food of almost any description that grows,
so long as it is fresh and dry. It is impossible here to mention all
the greens they will eat, but amongst others I may mention parsley,
chicory, dandelion, lettuce, cabbage, celery, clover in flower;
carrots, turnips, and mangolds (a slice or two) are very good. Be very
careful not to leave any soft food or greens lying about the hutch, as
they soon spoil, and not only smell offensively, but injure the rabbits.
On the floors of your hutches spread sawdust (pinewood sawdust is
first-rate when it can be had), and over this some nice clean straw;
and always keep in the hutch a little of one of the many disinfectants
that are now manufactured. Drinking vessels and feeding troughs should
all be made of glazed earthenware, the latter having a flange round
them to prevent the rabbit scratching out the food, and being heavy
enough to prevent them being pulled about and upset. Once more, do not
neglect cleanliness and regularity in feeding.
THE LOP-EARED RABBIT.--One of the oldest varieties of the rabbit when
these were first taken in hand and bred as fancy or domestic stock,
was the Lop-ear; and so, paying reverence to his age, I will give him
the first place. At the majority of rabbit shows I see lads and young
men, as well as old ones, congregated in eager groups round the pens
containing the Lops, or, as they are sometimes called, the King of the
Fancy. I need scarcely tell our boys that the great feature in the Lop
rabbit is the immense lop or hanging ears.
Well do I remember in the early days how proud the owner of a Lop was
if he could show to those assembled a specimen whose ears measured from
tip to tip 19 inches; yet to-day, such a rabbit (if an adult) would
not be looked at by the judges in a show, for specimens 25 inches and
upwards are now produced. In measuring the ears you must understand it
is done as follows: Take hold of one ear, lay it flat out full length,
but not stretching it to hurt the rabbit, then place a rule at the
extreme tip of the ear, pass it along, across the head, and so on to
the tip of the other ear, which must be held out at full length as was
the other, and so you have the proper measurement of your specimen
so far as length is concerned. Besides this, however, you want width
of ear, and this should, roughly speaking, be one quarter the total
length, measured across the widest part of one ear.
The ears of the Lop must be as long as possible and wide in proportion;
not set on too closely on top of the head; thick at the root, and
fall gracefully down the sides of the cheeks, nicely rounded at the
tip and free from knots or lumps; the head large, with full, round,
bright eyes. The body, when in repose, should be rather low at the
shoulders, rising in a graceful curve to the hind quarters, which
should be gradually and nicely rounded off, the head resting on the
pouch or dew-lap; the tail must be straight, and carried close to the
body, and the fore-legs straight and strong. Lops are bred in various
colours, such as black, yellow, fawn, blue, grey, and tortoiseshell, so
that there is any amount of room for experimenting. Some people, I am
sorry to say, have the absurd idea that constant pulling and stretching
the ears of their rabbits, whilst even in the nest, greatly helps to
lengthen them, but like many cruel and ignorant ideas it is altogether
wrong. All that Lop rabbits require to develop the length of ear and
keep them healthy is regular feeding, cleanliness, and being kept at
a temperature of from 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit; to secure which,
during spring, autumn, and winter, artificial heat must be supplied,
the best for the purpose probably being hot-water pipes.
Lops breed freely, but, as the young ones require a good deal of
nourishment, the doe should, in order not to weaken her too much,
only be allowed to bring up two or three, the others being given to
nurse-does or foster-mothers, which can generally be had easily if a
little trouble is taken to enquire for one or two amongst friends who
keep rabbits. A healthy common rabbit makes a good foster-mother.
THE HIMALAYAN RABBIT.--It would be difficult to find a more handsome
little rabbit than the Himalayan, and as it is one of the healthiest
and hardiest of the coney family, I propose to give a few particulars
of it. To commence, then, the Himalayan, or, as it has been called, the
Chinese rabbit, has a perfectly white body, with dark chocolate-brown
(as nearly black as can be) ears, nose, feet, and tail, and pink or
rich golden eyes, the whole appearance being that of a very handsome
animal. The ears must be short, close together, and stand very erect,
so much so that if you bend them in any direction they immediately
spring back into their proper position when released. The eye is
round, bright, and rather full, and as I have just said, pink or rich
golden in colour; the shape is very graceful, rather long than short
or stumpy, giving it all the appearance of a thoroughbred animal. The
coat is short, pure white, and fine and silky in texture, and the
weight of a full-grown specimen should not exceed about six lbs. The
fur is greatly in request for the making of imitation ermine, and
good skins are always saleable to the manufacturers. Now that we have
this beautiful little rabbit in our hutch, how are we to preserve its
distinctive markings in all their beauty? For be it remembered that the
white turns yellow, and the black or dark brown markings grey, unless
proper attention is paid to them. In Chinese or Russian markets where
these rabbits are on sale, we are told that the colour, especially on
the feet, is not so distinct as is seen in our domestic specimens; and
this I can quite understand, as, with their constant burrowing and
scratching amongst damp sand, earth, lime, etc., the colour on the feet
will soon be affected. A very great deal of care is bestowed by those
who exhibit Himalayans in order to have their handsome markings as even
as possible; for instance, the ears, from roots to tips, should be as
dark as possible, and the nose the same colour, as well as all four
feet and tail. This is often difficult to get; still, were it all as
simple as A B C, there would be little honour in producing what any one
else could produce without trouble.
As on many other questions, considerable discussion has been carried
on as to how best to preserve the distinct colour. Many argued that
the rabbits should be kept in entirely dark hutches, as they said the
light not only destroyed the colour, but the rabbits in their wild
state lived in dark burrows; just so, but these people forgot that such
of the wild specimens as are to be seen in the foreign markets are not
of that dark or nearly black colour, especially so far as their feet
are concerned, as are those which are domesticated. Others took up the
extreme opposition view, and recommended as much light as possible.
These latter were further astray than their "dark" opponents, for there
is no doubt that constant exposure to the full light does destroy the
purity of both black and white. Another thing that was overlooked by
the advocates of light was that too much exposure to light affected
the eyes of the Himalayan, which, as I have said, are pink, for it is
a well-known fact that human beings, as well as animals and birds who
have pink eyes, avoid a strong light. Himalayans are best provided
for in a partially darkened or shaded hutch, and this can be easily
arranged, especially if the hutch stands in an outhouse or shed; if
not, then partially cover the front with a bit of sacking or anything
that will keep off the full glare. If your Himalayan is allowed to
sleep or sit about in a wet hutch the colour of the feet will soon be
destroyed; but if the hutch is built as I previously described, all
water from the rabbit will soon run away. However, in the case of the
rabbit under notice, it is best to make "assurance doubly sure," so,
on the bottom of your hutch put a nice layer of fine sand or sawdust,
and over this straw or dried ferns, then any water will run through and
be absorbed by the sand or sawdust, which should be raked over each
morning, and renewed once a week. Do not give your Himalayan too much
green meat, and never any that is wet or stale, as they are rather
prone to scours. A few acorns are always a valuable thing to have on
hand, and immediately bunny is seen to be relaxed; give one or two, and
you will soon see the great good they will do.
SILVER AND ANGORA RABBITS.--Amongst the many beautiful specimens
that are to be seen now-a-days at exhibitions and in the rabbitries
of breeders, the silver varieties hold a deservedly high place. The
various colours include silver grey (light, medium, and dark shade),
silver brown, silver cream, silver fawn, and silver blue. The silvers
are of medium size, and should weigh between six lbs. and seven lbs.,
be compactly built, having a very neat head, ears moderately short,
clear bright eyes, and with that general appearance of activity that
denotes a healthy constitution. The coat or fur is close-fitting and
smooth to the touch. The skin or ground colour of the silver grey
should be blue, the fur consisting of black, white, and blue hair,
and, according to its distribution, so we have the three shades of
light, medium, or dark, as mentioned. When the silver grey is born it
is black, the colour only beginning to develop between the age of one
and two months, and being fully developed at about five or six months,
when their coats are very handsome. Some breeders, in order to get
the silvering as quickly as possible, help nature by keeping their
pets in artificially heated hutches; they succeed in thus accelerating
development, but, as we have found from many years' experience, those
who so interfere, and think they know more than Mother Nature, have
generally to pay the penalty for their presumption; for rabbits, too
quickly developed, although their coats have a beautiful appearance, do
not continue so long in that grand bloom and brightness that denotes
the rabbit that has been allowed to get its coat as nature intended.
All the warmth that is necessary can be obtained by having the hutches
water-tight, kept clean, and protected from the extremes of heat and
cold.
During the years the silver grey colour was being perfected, it is
needless to say, crosses of various colours had to be resorted to, and
amongst these were white rabbits, which naturally threw offspring with
white or very pale ground (skin) colour in many cases, and as the fur
grew, it was observed that the white hair predominated, giving the
rabbit a cream or fawn colour, the lighter being designated creams,
whilst the darker (or medium) were called fawns. The silver brown was
another outcome of the various crosses, the Belgian, wild English,
and common grey hutch rabbit, all leaving their trace in the silver
variety, the under coat and top coat being, as the name denotes, a
brown colour; this colour, pretty as it is, is not so "taking" to the
eye as the other handsome ones are, and so it has not been kept or
bred so carefully as the foregoing colours mentioned. The silver blue
is still a rare colour, and has not yet reached anything like such
perfection as the others; a correct blue, whilst evenly silvered,
should show a beautiful blue colour all through.
Although not so frequently seen, the Angora is an exceedingly handsome
rabbit, but needs a good deal of attention to keep it as it ought
to be. The great feature of this breed is the immense length of its
wool--not hair, mind, boys--which should be of the finest quality, soft
as silk, pure white, and well distributed all over the body; the face
and ears have less wool, in proportion to the other parts, but finer
and more silky. The head is not very broad, and is surmounted with a
pair of small and neatly-shaped ears, the eyes being pink and bright, a
beautiful contrast to the snow-white wool. The weight should not exceed
seven lbs. or eight lbs., although from the amount of wool they carry,
they look very much heavier. Angoras must be kept in large hutches,
on the bottoms of which have nice, clean, soft, oat straw. To keep
their coats in proper order, they must be gently combed and brushed at
least every other day, care being taken to pull as little wool out as
possible. Should any part of the coat become matted, do not "tug" at it
with the comb, which should be a wide-toothed one, but disentangle it
with your fingers, and use a little warm water on it to help; if it is
too securely matted to enable you to loosen it, there is nothing for it
but to clip it off, which will, of course, spoil its appearance till
the wool grows again.
A healthy, well-groomed Angora is one of the handsomest pets possible;
but on the other hand, if neglected, the coat becomes foul and matted,
and a more disconsolate, miserable-looking animal it would be difficult
to imagine. The hutches must be cleaned out thrice a week, and a manger
fixed in which to put hay or clover, of which they are very fond, and
which is good for them.
BELGIAN HARES.--The Belgian hare is a large and very handsome variety
of our domestic rabbit. Although designated "hare," it is not a hare
at all, but a rabbit pure and simple, although it has more of the
hare-like form and colour than any other variety. Being a large animal,
scaling from eight pounds to ten pounds in weight, it is necessary
that it should be kept in a large, roomy hutch. An old and experienced
breeder says the hutch should be at least 5 feet long, by 2 feet broad,
and 18 inches high, and the shaded sleeping compartment 6 inches wider
than in the ordinary hutch. The Belgian in colour somewhat resembles
the English hare, being of a sandy-brown or golden-foxey colour, ticked
as evenly as possible with dark chocolate, thus giving the fur, which
should be short, firm and glossy, a very handsome appearance; the head
is of good size, broad between the eyes, and gradually tapering towards
the nose; the eyes, a special feature in Belgians, are a beautiful
brown colour, full, bright, and wild-looking; the ears, about five
inches long, should be laced round the edges with black, and carried
very neatly and closely together; the body should be long, giving it a
graceful, hare-like carriage, so much esteemed, and the legs strong,
long, and straight. Belgians are very apt to develop a dew-lap or
pouch, or as some have called it a large double chin; this is a defect,
but, owing to an undoubted cross at a remote time with the lop rabbit,
is very difficult to avoid. Many specimens now-a-days do not show
this point until they get old and fat. One of the best preventatives
we believe is large airy hutches, and the avoidance of over-feeding.
Where it can be done, Belgians should be allowed to run in a nice dry
open shed, or failing this, an hour's run three or four times a week
on a nice, dry grass plot. Plenty of room, judicious feeding, and
cleanliness, work wonders in the development of the Belgian hare.
DUTCH RABBITS.--Unlike the Belgian, the Dutch rabbit is noted for its
small size, and is generally called the dwarf or bantam representative
of the domestic rabbit. There are few lads who have not been captivated
by the handsome little Dutchman, and there are few large rabbitries
where some of them are not kept, such great favourites are they. The
breed being of small size should not exceed about five pounds in
weight, and many grand ones are to be found under that weight. The
pretty markings, combined with the various colours of this variety and
the difficulties in getting both colour and markings exactly as they
ought to be, makes the breeding of them very fascinating to those fond
of experiments, and who delight in observing the various developments
of the little animal.
Probably the most favourite colours are the blacks and the blues; but
greys, tortoiseshells, and yellows, are all alike handsome. The head of
the Dutch rabbit is shapely and not large, the ears small, neat, and
carried slightly backwards; the eyes in this variety are frequently
not both of the same colour owing to crossing for various colours, and
the too frequent and pernicious habit of in-breeding. It is, however,
necessary that both eyes should match, and be bright and sparkling; the
body rises from behind the shoulders, curving nicely over the stern,
and giving the rabbit a compact, well-put-together shape; legs, medium
length, straight, and fine in bone.
Now to come to the markings of this little aristocrat of the rabbitry.
From between the ears comes a narrow white line, gradually widening
as it descends to, and encircles the smellers, and continuing round
the face, this is called the "blaze," the cheeks and ears are of the
same colour as the body, whilst the chest, fore-legs, and shoulders
are pure white, and the hind feet for about an inch and a half should
also be white, the whole remaining part of the rabbit being a solid
colour, as black, blue, grey, etc. The collar of white which runs round
the shoulders should descend in a straight line, as though cut with
scissors, encircling the fore-legs. The markings of a Dutch rabbit
should be sharply defined, and not blur or run into each other. For
instance, in a black Dutch, the cheeks, ears, and body from behind the
shoulders should be a bright, solid, glossy black, and the remaining
part pure white, a very beautiful contrast indeed. One great advantage
in keeping and breeding Dutch rabbits is that they are small and can be
more successfully brought up in cool, outdoor hutches.
If your rabbit has canker of the ear, clear out the discharge by gentle
pressure with a sponge or soft rag soaked in warm water, taking great
care that none of the water falls into the ear. When dry after this
bathing, apply the following lotion, which any druggist will make up
for you: sulphate of zinc 12 grains, water 2 ounces, wine of opium 1
drachm, mixed. Or you might try a mixture of one part Goulard's extract
of lead to five parts of pure olive oil. Hold the rabbit's head on one
side and pour into the ear half a teaspoonful of either of the above
twice a day. Give plenty of the best food, for if the rabbit does not
feed well the chances of recovery are slight.
$Cage Birds.$--CANARIES.--Having determined to keep a bird, the first
thing is to provide proper accommodation for it, and here let us
suppose the lad has only accommodation for one, or at most, a pair
of birds. Very well, then, procure a cage. Oh, yes, says the boy; of
course, I know that. Just so, but do not forget that there are cages
_and_ cages, and that whilst some look very pretty and are quite
an ornament, they are perhaps the most unsuitable and miserable of
prisons for poor little Dick; avoid by all means round cages, which
are the worst possible for the poor little inmates, who have no room
to exercise themselves, and where it is quite impossible for them to
get out of the way of draughts or shelter themselves from the scorching
sun. The best and most convenient cages are those which have plain wire
in front, the rest being made of wood; the larger the size the better,
as a great thing is to give the inmates plenty of room for exercise.
The size that I have used for years in which to keep a pair of canaries
or other small birds, is as follows:--Length 24 in., depth, from back
to front, 10 in., and height 15 in. In such a cage small birds will
live healthily for years. Next in importance to size of cage is where
to hang it, and a great deal depends upon this point. First, then, let
me impress upon you never to hang Dickey (except, perhaps, for an hour
or two's change in fine, but not too sunny weather) in front of the
window, for here the bird is exposed to draughts and every change of
temperature, which is more injurious to the health and well-being of
your pet than anything else. Select a part of the room against one of
the walls as free from draught as possible, and where there is plenty
of light and air; and be particular not to hang the cage higher than
(but rather below) the level of the gas, as when that is lighted the
air in the higher parts of the room becomes very hot, and anything but
comfortable or healthy for the bird. Now that you have got your cage,
which will be fitted with the necessary perches, drinking glasses, and
seed hoppers, examine it carefully to see that it is clean and free
from insects, then fill your water-glasses, and put seed in the tins
or hoppers, and on the bottom of the cage a good supply of sand and
small grit, which can be bought in penny bags at all corn chandlers
or bird-shops, and your house is ready for Master Dick. Perches are
usually too thin. They should not be like a lead pencil, but more like
your thumb, and flat on top. Feed regularly each morning, on either
the mixed seed, or, as we prefer it, buy some good, clean, sweet,
canary seed and summer rape seed, and mix them yourself, one part of
the latter to two parts of the former; clean water each day, and a wee
bit of nice, dry, fresh, green food, such as groundsel, watercress,
lettuce, chickweed, or plantain, as they are in season. Do not indulge
your bird in luxuries, but Dickey will enjoy (and it will do it good)
now and then, a morsel of sweet, ripe apple, pear, grape, or cherry.
Following these directions, and keeping the cage thoroughly clean, you
will find Dickey a delightful pet and one that will repay you for any
little trouble.
Whenever you have occasion to go near the cage, either to look at
the bird or to feed or clean it, always speak to it cheerfully but
quietly, and so gain its confidence, and you will soon be surprised how
earnestly it will greet you whenever you come into the room. It will
greatly contribute to the health and vigour of your bird if you can
now and then let it fly in the room where the cage is. Close the room
door and windows, and, yourself and Dick being the only inmates, talk
to him and then open the cage-door and sit down, and you will be amused
at the bird's antics; first he will hop on the ledge of the door, then,
looking this way and that, he will either try his wings on a fly round
the room or drop to a table or chair-back, and so investigate the whole
surroundings; do not startle the bird whilst it is out or it will get
frightened and dash itself about. If it seems unable to find its way
back to the cage, talk to it and drive it gently in that direction, but
never wave a handkerchief or paper at it or you will probably frighten
it to death.
ZEBRA-FINCHES.--One of the merriest, boldest, most impudent and
inquisitive little fellows is the handsome zebra, or chestnut-eared,
finch; a prettier or more charming little pet it would be difficult to
find. Zebra-finches are the hardiest and best known of the Australian
finches, and are natives of Queensland and New South Wales, where they
are found in great numbers; they are stoutly built, compact little
birds, measuring between four and five inches from beak to end of tail,
the tail itself being about an inch and a half long. The hen is soberly
clad in grey with yellow beak and legs, but her mate is a handsome
little fellow and somewhat difficult to describe; his beak is red;
head, neck, and throat grey, the feathers on the latter being pencilled
with white, which gives it a very beautiful appearance; the ears are a
bright chestnut colour, and a line of black and one of white surround
the beak; the breast is white, sides darker chestnut spotted with
white; back and wings grey; tail black, barred and spotted with white;
legs orange colour.
No description, however, can adequately convey the handsome appearance
of Master Zebra-finch when in the full beauty of his plumage. He is a
fearless little fellow and bold to the extent of rashness in defending
his mate, for he will attack birds many times larger than himself, and
generally comes off the victor; and then doesn't he let you know it;
how he struts about, blowing himself out and trumpeting to his heart's
content. They are most lovable little birds, their every action being
full of grace.
Zebra-finches do not sing, but the male bird's note is a sweet
trumpeting sound, very cheerful and pleasant, and varying in tone.
Watch him making love to his little mate or helping her to make a
nest; how low and soothing is his little trumpet, and how much it
is appreciated is easily perceived by the joyous twitterings of his
soberly clad lady-love; listen to him again when he is "showing-off";
with what vigour does he blow his trumpet, and how proudly he hops
about, especially if he has just thrashed a bigger fellow than himself.
I kept a pair for several years in a cage, such as I described to you,
and although kept in a room where more or less noise was going on all
day they were as happy as the day was long, and being continually
petted and talked to became very tame, "Master Jocky" never failing
to trumpet to us when we went to the cage or spoke coaxingly to him;
his little wife "Jenny" was, however, very shy and always allowed her
lord and master to do all the talking, she chiming in now and again as
though saying "Hear, hear," to his remarks. As I had not, at the time,
convenience for an aviary, I made a point, as soon as the birds were
thoroughly tamed, of opening the cage-door every afternoon for an hour
or two so that they might fly round the room; and how they did enjoy
themselves! The first time I opened the cage-door they made no rush
for freedom, but seemed to talk the matter over with each other, and
then Jocky came to the open door, trumpeting his best to attract my
attention. I spoke to him, and then, apparently reassured, he launched
himself forth across to where I was and back again to his cage; then he
enticed Jenny to come out, and they flew round and round, resting close
together on the top of the cage now and then, when he would trumpet in
his loudest and most vigorous tones; they would thus tire themselves
out, and in a few minutes after would be sound asleep. Thus they lived
joyously for years, but she at last succumbed to egg-binding, which,
unfortunately, with this variety is more common and more fatal than
with many others. They had lived together so long and so happily that
poor little Jock never got over his sorrow, his delightful little
trumpetings soon lost their bonny sound, and do what we could we failed
to rouse him to anything like what he used to be, and so one morning
when we took the cover off his cage he was dead. We all sorrowed over
their deaths, for they made themselves most lovable little companions
to one and all of us.
Dr. Greene, the naturalist, speaking of his first experience with these
delightful little birds, says:--
"As soon as I got them home, I turned the birds loose into a greenhouse
in which was nothing but a grape-vine in full foliage. I shall never
forget the delight of the little couple as they rushed into the midst
of the leaves, the male trumpeting loudly and his mate twittering in
joyful response. They paired almost as soon as I let them out of the
cage, and in a minute or two the hen bird was hopping about with
a little bit of fibre she had picked up off the floor in her beak,
looking for a place to build her nest in; this she was not long in
finding, and on my supplying her with some fine hay, she very soon,
or, I should say they, for the male helped in the construction, made a
little domed nest among the vine branches, and in less than a week were
engaged in the important duty of incubation, male and female sitting
alternately on five tiny white eggs."
Zebra-finches breed freely, especially when kept in cages in a rather
warm temperature. The young ones, which are hatched in about twelve
days, do not leave the nest till fully fledged, when they almost
immediately commence to feed themselves, when they must be removed or
they will interfere with the old birds. When kept in an aviary not
supplied with heat artificially, they generally content themselves with
two or perhaps three broods a year, which is much better for them. It
must be remembered that when kept in an aviary with other birds they
are inclined to be quarrelsome and masterful, frequently either taking
possession of some other nest or pulling it to pieces to construct
their own, in spite of the fact that abundant nest-making material is
lying about.
For food, canary seed and millet is the best, and will keep them
vigorous and in good health. As a change give them a few hay-seeds,
a spray of millet, or some grass in flower, which they will greatly
enjoy, as also now and again a morsel of sweet apple or pear. When
bringing up young, give a small piece of sponge cake and a little of
the yolk of a hard-boiled egg crushed and mixed with sweet biscuit.
Always see that they have plenty of grit, and keep a piece of rock-salt
and cuttlefish-shell for them to peck at. They are very cleanly birds,
and when the weather is not too cold, should be allowed a bath at least
twice or thrice a week.
BUDGERIGARS.--This beautiful little bird, called variously "Undulated
Grass Parrakeet," "Zebra Grass Parrakeet," and "Shell Parrot," is a
native of South Australia, and is deservedly a very general favourite,
its hardy constitution, the readiness with which it adapts itself to
confinement, its handsome plumage, and its winning ways, all tending
to make it a great pet. It can be kept in a large cage, but is much
merrier and more contented in a garden aviary, where it may be kept all
the year round so long as it has an inner compartment to retire to in
very severe cold or wet weather. It is a miniature long-tailed parrot,
measuring seven or eight inches, of which the tail is about half that
length; its general colour is a brilliant grass-green, the head pale
primrose, whilst the neck, shoulders, and wings are yellow-green, the
feathers being edged with grey, giving it an undulating appearance,
hence one of its names; the two long middle-tail feathers are blue,
whilst the others are yellow with green tips; the beak is white, chin
yellow, spotted with blue, which latter colour also runs down each side
of the beak like a moustache; legs and feet grey or slate colour. The
male bird is distinguished from the female by the blue colour of the
cere round the nostrils, which in the female is of a brown shade.
Budgerigars breed well in confinement, the season lasting from about
December to July, during which two or three broods will be produced.
Several pairs can be kept together in one aviary, the only thing to be
particular about is to provide sufficient nesting material, otherwise
quarrels ensue. In the native woods these handsome little fellows
generally make their nests in the hollows of gum-trees, taking very
little trouble as to furnishing it; in an aviary they will select
almost any hole or corner; but one of the best nests I know of is the
husk of a cocoa-nut, which should have a hole cut in one end; this
should be hung high up so that mice cannot reach it, and a perch should
be provided close to the hole, where the male will sit and sing his
love ditties, and tell his wife all the gossip of the day, whilst she
is attending to her maternal duties inside. The hen lays three, four,
five and sometimes six eggs, the youngsters being hatched in fourteen
or fifteen days. When feeding-time comes the young ones do not open
their mouths as do so many young birds, but the parents take the beak
of their offspring into their own, and the youngsters feed themselves
on the food which the old ones disgorge for them. The young birds
leave the nest when five or six weeks old, as soon as they are fully
fledged, and in a few days leave the parents, who soon set about
nesting again; the first thing they do being to thoroughly clean out
the husk for the reception of the next batch of eggs. If husks cannot
be got conveniently, little wooden boxes (which should have some
sawdust put in so that the eggs will not roll about) holes in the wall,
or a rotten wood log will do.
When kept in small cages budgerigars, not having room to properly "show
off," are apt to become silent, but once in an aviary and the change
is marvellous, as they dart about, tumbling, twisting, and climbing in
all positions in the most graceful and delightful manner, and singing
a pleasant little song all the while, stopping now and again as though
to exchange confidences and to express delight at their surroundings.
These birds do not bathe, but one of their greatest delights is to
tumble and roll about in wet grass; if, therefore, the aviary has not
a grass bottom, a large sod should be supplied and artificial rain
produced by the aid of the watering can. When thus tumbling about, and
the sun glints on their plumage it sparkles like so many gems. So far
as food is concerned these charming little birds are easily satisfied,
canary seed and white millet being sufficient to keep them healthy and
vigorous, the only change necessary being when they are feeding young
ones, when a little stale bread soaked in water and squeezed dry, and a
few oats, should be added to their bill of fare; the simpler the diet
the better, so do not indulge them with tit-bits. In the aviary or cage
always have a supply of clean drinking water at hand, pounded oyster
shells, as well as sand, fine shell grit and cuttlefish bone, which can
be had at all bird shops, seed dealers, etc.
Being such hardy, sprightly little fellows, the handsome budgerigars
are not liable to so many illnesses as frequently fall to the lot
of our caged pets; now and again one may have a fit, due probably
to improper feeding; should such occur, be careful to correct your
feeding, and give grass in flower, dandelion, or a bit of groundsel.
Cramp they sometimes suffer from, which is produced by cold or damp,
the latter more especially; a simple remedy is the removal of the
bird to a warm and dry atmosphere. All cage-birds (hens) are liable
to egg-binding, one of the most serious complaints, and difficult to
deal with, and budgerigars suffer from it like the rest; it is seldom
curable, but immediately the hen is observed to be suffering she should
be taken gently, very gently, in hand, and a drop or two of castor oil
or sweet oil put in her mouth, whilst the egg passage should be gently
oiled with a feather, and then held over the mouth of a jug of hot
water, so that the steam may get to the part affected, and so relax it
and assist in the delivery of the egg. A bird which has been egg-bound
should not be allowed to mate and go to nest again, as sooner or later
she will again suffer from the distressing complaint and die.
Any one fond of birds cannot fail to be delighted and charmed with
such a handsome, good-tempered, loving, and jolly little fellow as the
budgerigar.
$How to treat Dogs.$--Twice a day feed the dog moderately. Paunch and
tripe are excellent for dogs. Boil this food, cut into small pieces,
in a moderate quantity of water, and when the meat is sufficiently
done throw into the gravy some good dog biscuits. When these are soft
mix meat, biscuits and gravy well together. For an occasional change
oatmeal or rice may be given instead of meat. During the summer boil a
cabbage with the food twice a week, for unless dogs have vegetable food
occasionally they are liable to have mange and scurvy. In winter put
mashed potatoes in the food sometimes, for these contain the properties
for which dogs sometimes eat the coarse grass in some parts called
couch grass, in others twitch. Once or twice a week a dog should have
boiled liver and sometimes milk in which powdered brimstone has been
placed. Always he should be able to drink clean water. A dog's kennel
should be in a dry, sheltered place and lifted from the ground. It
should face south or west. Let him have plenty of dry straw. Wheat
straw and oat straw are best; it is said that barley straw will cause
mange. Cedar or pine shavings are good if you can secure some. In
cold weather a piece of canvas or carpet should be nailed to hang
over the entrance, and great care should be taken to keep the kennel
dry, or there will be mange and lameness. A kennel with an adjustable
bottom which can be removed to be cleaned, is better than one with a
fixed bottom. At least every two weeks the kennel should be thoroughly
cleaned. Apply some good disinfectant to every crevice with a brush,
then expose the inside to the sun and air to dry it. It is usual to
chain the dog to the kennel, but a better plan is to place in front of
the kennel a stout wire about fifteen feet long stretched between two
posts that are about three feet above the ground. The ring at the end
of the dog's chain should have this wire running through it. This plan
gives him a much wider range.
To destroy vermin in a dog rub soft soap well into his coat, and in
about a quarter of an hour lather it well into him, and then wash it
away with an abundance of tepid water.
When dogs have the "husk," a kind of cough, they should be fed with
finely chopped suet boiled in milk, with a little garlic also finely
chopped added to the suet. For worms, administer a teaspoonful of salt
either dry or dissolved in lukewarm water. This is also a good remedy
when distemper begins, for it acts as an emetic.
The least exercise a dog should have is an hour each day. Dogs kept in
the house should have exercise for half an hour before breakfast and
after supper too. A run at mid-day, too, is an advantage. To lead them
out soberly on a chain and back again is not sufficient for a dog. He
needs more lively exercise than that. A large dog should run six miles
each day. Brush your dog's coat each day and wash him once a week.
Bad habits should be checked when the dog is young, with a whip if
that is necessary, but without cruelty. A little whip goes a long way
with a dog. Even the sight of it is sufficient usually. Be sure he
understands for what he is being punished, and be consistent. Don't
laugh at him for one thing one day, and punish him for it another. Do
not let him annoy neighbours by barking. If you do it will serve you
right if the neighbours obtain an order from the magistrates for his
destruction. They are entitled to do this, and, indeed the right ought
to be exercised more often than it is.
So far we have mentioned grown dogs only, but a few hints about puppies
may be given. When these are five or six weeks old they may be weaned.
Feed them now for three weeks upon boiled milk, sometimes breaking into
it a little stale bread. Then they may begin to have soup made of meat
and vegetables occasionally. When they are between six weeks and a year
old they may be fed three times a day, the most generous meal at night
before they go to sleep.
$The Raven.$--If you keep a raven be prepared for unending mischief
and destruction. He needs plenty of room, and will eat most things.
Raw meat is perhaps his favourite diet, and he is pleased with rats,
mice, small birds, beetles, grubs or worms, and bread. He ought to be
fed once, and once only, each day, for he will find insects, worms, and
other delicacies for himself. From time to time he loves to retire to a
place that is sheltered, warm and dark, and where no one can see him.
$White Mice.$--The principal food for white mice is bread-and-milk,
oatmeal grits, and any other common food, except cheese, which is bad
for them. They should be kept particularly clean, and their cages
overhauled each day and the bedding changed, or they will smell
offensively. Cages may be adapted from boxes. Give them more room than
the bought cages give them, and a dark compartment.
$Jackdaws.$--The jackdaw is tamed easily, and can be taught to say a
few words. It is as alert as a terrier for visitors, and affectionate
towards its friends. Jack loves a bath, and may be fed on bread and
milk, oats, mice, small birds, insects, and meat.
$The Jay.$--The jay is not so impatient of captivity as the magpie,
and will tolerate confinement in a large cage. It will eat meat, small
birds, mice, insects, worms, and is particularly fond of eggs. It eats,
too, much vegetable food.
$The Magpie.$--Do not keep a magpie unless you can give him generous
room. He is a very clever talker and mimic. He is extremely fond
of bathing, and a plentiful supply of water is needful to keep his
beautiful plumage in good condition. The food of the magpie is the same
as that of the jackdaw.
$The Hedgehog.$--This animal likes insects and snails, frogs and mice,
and will even kill a snake, and eat it. In its wild state it sleeps all
the winter, rolled up in a hole which it has filled with grass, moss,
or leaves; and when tamed it will hide itself in some dark place for
weeks, and never make its appearance, unless it should feel hungry.
Hedgehogs destroy beetles, eating them quickly and gladly. They need
no looking after, but will fend for themselves, though it is better to
have a little hutch to put them into sometimes. Their feeding-time is
in the night; and if there are black-beetles in the kitchen, the best
plan is to leave the hedgehog there.
$Silkworms.$--Buy a few eggs, which should be of a lilac or grey
colour. Avoid yellow ones.
The silkworm when hatched is black, and about one-fourth of an inch
long. The desire for food is the first sign of life, and it is more
alive then than at any other time. When about eight days have elapsed
its head becomes enlarged and it turns ill, refuses food, and remains
torpid for about three days. This seems to be caused by the pressure of
the skin, which has become too tight. The difference in the size of the
worm from the beginning to the end of the caterpillar state is such,
that the worm has been provided with several skins, each of which it
throws off in succession.
The silkworm feeds on the leaves of the white mulberry; or, when these
cannot be obtained, upon those of the black mulberry; or even upon the
leaves of the lettuce.
The eggs should be bought about the end of April and placed in trays
made of pasteboard. Over the case put thin gauze. The trays may be
placed in a window facing the south, where they are fully exposed to
the sun, and there they should remain undisturbed till the eggs begin
to hatch. As the worms appear they should be removed into other trays,
and fed with the mulberry leaves. The temperature should be from
sixty-six to seventy degrees, and the room ventilated, and preserved
free from damp and from too much dryness. The trays should be kept
clean, dead leaves and any other refuse cleared away. In moving the
caterpillars from one tray to another they should not be touched by the
fingers, but removed by threads of cotton passed under their bodies, or
with a camel-hair brush.
The caterpillar has four moultings, which may be all over in four
days each, if the heat of the room be increased to from ninety-five
to one hundred degrees of Fahrenheit. When the heat is lower, the
first moulting takes place on the fourth or fifth day after hatching,
the second in four days more, the third in five or six days more,
and the last in about eight days. Ten days more are required after
this moulting, so that in about thirty-two days after hatching the
caterpillar is fully grown.
[Illustration]
At the end of this time the silkworms change to a clear pink or flesh
colour, and look semi-transparent; they refuse food, become restless,
and prepare to spin their cocoon. Care should be taken to raise the
walls of their tray or they will climb over and be lost. The cocoon
nest should now be prepared by twisting the corners of a piece of
writing-paper, and raising its edges into the form shown in the
illustration. A number of these should be prepared and fixed to a piece
of tape, with their pointed ends downwards; and into each one a single
worm should be placed when it refuses its food, and seems inclined to
spin: it will then weave its web so as to leave a space within.
The cocoon consists of three layers of silk: the first is loose and
flossy, and is of no use for the silk manufacture; the second is
closer, the silk crossing from side to side; and the third is still
finer, and is stuck firmly together, so as to form a compact inner
coating.
When the cocoon is completed, the enclosed caterpillar once more casts
its skin, with its head and jaws attached to it. It is now a conical
chrysalis of the ordinary shape. At first the chrysalis, when opened,
contains only a yellow fluid, but by degrees the parts of the moth
appear, and in a fortnight or three weeks a swelling of the chrysalis
indicates the approach of another change. A rupture down its back comes
next, and the moth bursts through its coating into the hollow of the
cocoon, and if left to itself would soon eat its way through.
The chrysalis, however, must be stopped from eating through the cocoon;
and the silk must be wound. When, by shaking the cocoon, it is found to
rattle, then it is time to wind the silk. The cocoon is placed in a cup
of warm water, after the loose outward silk has been removed, and then,
an end being taken, the whole filament may be wound off on a piece of
card. The length of the thread of a cocoon varies from 600 to 1,000
feet.
When the silk is wound off the aurelia presents itself, and being put
in a separate case, it remains motionless for about twenty days, when
it appears as a pale yellow moth. The male soon dies; the females lay
their eggs on the slips of paper provided for that purpose. They then
soon die.