lived for some time among the Creek Indians, was
agent for Clark in settling his accounts with the
French government. He arrived from France late in
1795, and Michaux’s testimony was relied upon to
secure the affidavits necessary to obtain recompense
from the French republic. See _American State Papers,
Indian Affairs_, i, p. 463. Consult, also, American
Historical Association _Report_, 1896, pp.
1047-1065.--ED.
[168] Probably _Pinus inops_, Ait.--C. S. S.
[169] _Aplectrum hyemale_, Nutt.--C. S. S.
[170] Col. Robert Hays, a brother-in-law of Andrew Jackson,
was born in North Carolina, and served in the
Revolution, being captured at Charleston. He removed
to Cumberland in 1784, was first United States
marshal of Tennessee, muster-master-general for
Jackson in 1813, and died at his home near Nashville
in 1819.--ED.
[171] _Arundinaria macrosperma_, Michx.--C. S. S.
[172] Fort Blount was not a pioneer stronghold, but one
erected by the government shortly before Michaux’s
visit, for protection of the settlers against the
Cherokees. It was on the north bank of Cumberland
River, in the southwestern part of Jackson County,
about midway between the Eastern and Western
Tennessee settlements.--ED.
[173] _Cladrastis tinctoria_ Raf., discovered here by
Michaux, although not included in his _Flora_. A
letter written by Michaux to Governor Blount
suggesting the value of the wood of this tree as a
dye wood, was, according to the younger Michaux,
published in the _Knoxville Gazette_, on the
fifteenth of March, 1769. [See his journal,
_post._]--C. S. S.
[174] _Lygodium palmatum_ Swz.--C. S. S.
[175] The Looneys were a prominent family in the early
history of East Tennessee. Captain David Looney was
militia officer during the Revolution and the Indian
wars.--ED.
[176] Dr. Benjamin S. Barton was one of the best known
scientists and naturalists of his day, as well as a
skilful physician. Born in Lancaster, Pennsylvania,
he was educated in Europe and took up practice in
Philadelphia. In 1789, he was made professor of
botany and natural history in the University of
Pennsylvania; he was vice-president of the American
Philosophical Society, and member of other learned
organizations. He was designated to edit the
scientific data of Lewis and Clark’s expedition, but
died before accomplishing this (1815).--ED.
[177] William Bartram, son and co-worker of John Bartram,
one of America’s first naturalists, was born in
Pennsylvania in 1739. He devoted his life to the
study of botany, travelling extensively for the
discovery of plants. His head-quarters were at the
botanical gardens near Philadelphia.--ED.
[178] John Overton was one of the best-known jurists of
Tennessee. Born in Virginia, he early emigrated to
Kentucky, whence he removed to Nashville, about the
time Jackson began his career. He became Jackson’s
partner and warm friend. From 1804-10 he was judge of
the superior court, and of great service in adjusting
land titles; the next five years (1811-16) Judge
Overton served on the supreme bench of the state. He
was one of the early proprietors of Memphis; and died
near Nashville in 1833.--ED.
[179] John Carter was the foremost man of the early Watauga
settlement. Coming from North Carolina, he had the
prestige of family and a superior education, and was
chosen head of the new community, serving efficiently
in many capacities. He was concerned in the State of
Franklin movement, and was frequently called out at
the head of the militia, on Indian expeditions.
Carter County was named for him, and he had therein a
large estate.--ED.
[180] Michaux returned across the mountains by a different
route from the one by which he went out. The northern
or upper road over Yellow Mountain appears to have
been the more frequented; the lower road, over the
Iron Mountain range and down the Nolichucky, the more
direct. See the younger Michaux’s account (_post_) of
the difficulties of this route, when he passed over
it six years later. Limestone Cove was probably at
the mouth of Limestone Creek, a tributary of the
Nolichucky on the western or Tennessee side of the
mountain. Cane and Paper Creeks are small tributaries
of the Nolichucky, on the eastern or North Carolina
grade of the mountains.--ED.
[181] _C. rostrata_, Ait.--C. S. S.
[182] _V. hastata_, Michx.--C. S. S.
[183] _M. macrophylla_, Michx.--C. S. S.
[184] Tuckasegee Ford is between the present Gaston County and
Mechlenburg, about ten miles west of Charlotte.--ED.
[185] Note: before passing the ford, I dined with ... Alexander,
a very respectable man from whom I have received many
courtesies.--MICHAUX.
It is impossible to determine from this allusion,
which of the numerous Alexander family Michaux
visited. The Alexanders of Mechlenburg were noted as
patriotic, God-fearing, Scotch-Irish Presbyterians,
who had a large share in the Revolutionary War in
their country. Abraham presided at the Mechlenburg
Convention (1775), of which Adam and John McKnitt
Alexander were both members.--ED.
[186] When one does not wish to pass by Charlotte in going to
Lincoln, he must inquire twelve or fifteen miles
before reaching these, for the route to the left
which passes by Tuckasegee Ford.--MICHAUX.
[187] It has been suggested that this may refer to _F.
Caroliniana_, Walt. (_F. Walteri_, Michx.).--C. S. S.
[188] It is not at all clear what shrub Michaux refers to in
this entry. Mr. Canby, to whom several of the
doubtful points in the Journal have been referred,
and whose knowledge of the plants of the Allegheny
region is now unrivaled, suggests that Michaux may
have found _Darbya_. There is nothing in his
herbarium to indicate that he ever saw that plant,
which was found, however, by M. A. Curtis not far
from Morganton.--C. S. S.
[189] Probably _Silene Pennsylvanica_ as suggested by Mr.
Canby, or _S. Baldwinii_, as suggested by Mr. Meehan.
In both of the species the petals are sometimes rose
colored.--C. S. S.
[190] _Planera aquatica_, Gmelin.--C. S. S.
[191] Bledsoe’s Lick. A pioneer told Lyman C. Draper that this
was often called “the Bloody Ground,” because so many
whites were there killed by Indians--note in Draper
MSS., Wisconsin Historical Society, 3 XX 18.--ED.
TRAVELS TO THE WEST OF THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS,
BY FRANÇOIS ANDRÉ MICHAUX
Reprint from London edition, 1805
[Illustration:
_CARTE_
DES ETATS DU CENTRE, DE
L’OUEST ET DU SUD
_DES_
ETATS-UNIS.
_Dessinée par Dupias fils_
AN XII.__1804.
]
TRAVELS
TO THE WEST OF THE
_ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS_,
IN THE STATES OF
Ohio,
KENTUCKY, AND TENNESSEA,
AND BACK TO CHARLESTON, BY THE UPPER
CAROLINES;
COMPRISING
_The most interesting Details on the present State of_
Agriculture,
AND
THE NATURAL PRODUCE OF THOSE COUNTRIES:
TOGETHER WITH
_Particulars relative to the Commerce that exists between the
above-mentioned States, and those situated East of the Mountains
and Low Louisiana_,
UNDERTAKEN, IN THE YEAR 1802,
UNDER THE AUSPICES OF
His Excellency M. CHAPTAL, Minister of the Interior,
BY F. A. MICHAUX,
MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF NATURAL HISTORY AT PARIS; CORRESPONDENT
OF THE AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY IN THE DEPARTMENT
OF THE SEINE AND OISE.
LONDON:
Printed by D. N. SHURY, Berwick Street, Soho;
FOR B. CROSBY AND CO. STATIONERS’ COURT;
AND J. F. HUGHES, WIGMORE STREET, CAVENDISH SQUARE:
1805.
CONTENTS
CHAP. I
Departure from Bourdeaux.--Arrival at Charleston.--Remarks
upon the yellow fever.--A short description of the town
of Charleston.--Observations upon several trees, natives
of the old continent, reared in a botanic garden near
the city 117
CHAP. II
Departure from Charleston for New York.--A short
description of the town.--Botanic excursions in New
Jersey.--Remarks upon the _quercus tinctoria_, or black
oak, and the nut trees of that country.--Departure from
New York for Philadelphia.--Abode 125
{vi} CHAP. III
Departure from Philadelphia to the western
country.--Communications by land in the United
States.--Arrival at Lancaster.--Description of the
town and its environs.--Departure.--Columbia.--Passage
from Susquehannah, York, Dover, Carlisle.--Arrival at
Shippensburgh.--Remarks upon the state of agriculture
during the journey 132
CHAP. IV
Departure from Shippensburgh to Strasburgh.--Journey
over the Blue Ridges.--New Species of
_rhododendrum_.--Passage over the river Juniata.--Use
of the cones of the _magnolia acuminata_.--Arrival at
Bedford Court House.--Excesses to which the natives
of that part of the country are addicted.--Departure
from Bedford.--Journey over Alleghany Ridge and Laurel
Hill.--Arrival at West Liberty Town 141
CHAP. V
Departure from West Liberty Town to go among the mountains
in search of a shrub supposed to give good oil, a
new species of _azalea_.--Ligonier Valley.--Coal
Mines.--Greensburgh.--Arrival at Pittsburgh 149
{vii} CHAP. VI
Description of Pittsburgh.--Commerce of the Town and
adjacent countries with New Orleans.--Construction
of large vessels.--Description of the rivers
Monongahela and Alleghany.--Towns situated on their
banks.--Agriculture.--Maple sugar 156
CHAP. VII
Description of the Ohio.--Navigation of that river.--Mr.
S. Craft.--The object of his travels.--Remarks upon the
state of Vermont 163
CHAP. VIII
Departure from Pittsburgh for Kentucky.--Journey by land
to Wheeling.--State of agriculture on the route.--West
Liberty Town in Virginia.--Wheeling 168
CHAP. IX
Departure from Wheeling for Marietta.--Aspect of the banks
of the Ohio.--Nature of the forests.--Extraordinary size
of several kinds of trees 172
{viii} CHAP. X
Marietta.--Ship building.--Departure for
Gallipoli.--Falling in with a Kentucky boat.--Point
Pleasant.--The Great Kenhaway 177
CHAP. XI
Gallipoli.--State of the French colony Scioto.--Alexandria
at the mouth of the Great Scioto.--Arrival at Limestone
in Kentucky 182
CHAP. XII
Fish and shells of the Ohio.--Inhabitants on the banks of
the river.--Agriculture.--American emigrant.--Commercial
intelligence relative to that part of the United States 188
CHAP. XIII
Limestone.--Route from Limestone to Lexinton.--Washington.--
Salt-works at Mays-Lick.--Millesburgh.--Paris 195
CHAP. XIV
Lexinton.--Manufactories established there.--Commerce.--Dr.
Samuel Brown 199
{ix} CHAP. XV
Departure from Lexinton.--Culture of the vine at Kentucky.--
Passage over the Kentucky and Dick Rivers.--Departure
for Nasheville.--Mulder Hill.--Passage over Green River 206
CHAP. XVI
Passage over the Barrens, or Meadows.--Plantations upon
the road.--The view they present.--Plants discovered
there.--Arrival at Nasheville 215
CHAP. XVII
General observations upon Kentucky.--Nature of the
soil.--First settlements in the state.--Right of
property uncertain.--Population 222
CHAP. XVIII
Distinction of Estates.--Species of Trees peculiar to each
of them.--Ginseng.--Animals in Kentucky 228
CHAP. XIX
Different kinds of culture in Kentucky.--Exportation of
colonial produce.--Peach trees.--Taxes 237
{x} CHAP. XX
Particulars relative to the manners of the inhabitants
of Kentucky.--Horses and cattle.--Necessity of giving
them salt.--Wild Horses caught in the Plains of New
Mexico.--Exportation of salt provisions 243
[CHAP.] XXI
Nasheville.--Commercial details.--Settlement of the Natches 250
CHAP. XXII
Departure for Knoxville.--Arrival at Fort Blount.--Remarks
upon the drying up of the Rivers in the
Summer.--Plantations on the road.--Fertility of the
soil.--Excursions in a canoe on the river Cumberland 255
CHAP. XXIII
Departure from Fort Blount to West Point, through the
Wilderness.--Botanical excursions upon Roaring
River.--Description of its Banks.--Saline productions
found there.--Indian Cherokees.--Arrival at Knoxville 258
{xi} CHAP. XXIV
Knoxville.--Commercial intelligence.--Trees that grow in
the environs.--Converting some parts of the Meadows into
Forests.--River Nolachuky.--Greensville.--Arrival at
Jonesborough 265
CHAP. XXV
General observations on the state of Tennessea.--Rivers
Cumberland and Tennessea.--What is meant by East
Tennessea or Holston, and West Tennessea or
Cumberland.--First settlements in West Tennessea.--Trees
natives of that country 271
CHAP. XXVI
Different kinds of produce of West Tennessea.--Domestic
manufactories for cottons encouraged by the Legislature
of this State.--Mode of letting out Estates by some of
the Emigrants 276
CHAP. XXVII
East Tennessea, or Holston.--Agriculture.--Population.--
Commerce 280
{xii} CHAP. XXVIII
Departure from Jonesborough for Morganton, in North
Carolina.--Journey over Iron Mountains.--Sojourn on the
mountains.--Journey over the Blue Ridges and Linneville
Mountains.--Arrival at Morganton 283
CHAP. XXIX
General observations upon this part of the Chain of
the Alleghanies.--Salamander which is found in the
torrents.--Bear hunting 286
CHAP. XXX
Morganton.--Departure for Charleston.--Lincolnton.--
Chester.--Winesborough.-- Columbia.--Aspect of the Country
on the Road.--Agriculture, &c. &c. 290
CHAP. XXXI
General observations on the Carolinas and Georgia.--
Agriculture and produce peculiar to the upper part of
these states 296
CHAP. XXXII
Low part of the Carolines and Georgia.--Agriculture.--
Population.--Arrival at Charleston 301
TRAVELS, &C., &C.
CHAP. I
_Departure from Bourdeaux.--Arrival at Charleston.--Remarks
upon the yellow fever.--A short description of the town of
Charleston.--Observations upon several trees, natives of the
old continent, reared in a botanic garden near the city._
Charleston, in South Carolina, being the first place of my
destination, I went to Bourdeaux as one of the ports of France that
trades most with the southern parts of the United States, and where
there are most commonly vessels from the different points of North
America. I embarked the 24th of {2} September 1801, on board the John
and Francis, commanded by the same captain with whom I returned to
Europe several years ago.[1] A fortnight after our departure we
were overtaken by a calm, within sight of the Açorian Islands. Saint
George’s and Graciosa were those nearest to us, where we clearly
distinguished a few houses, which appeared built with stone and
chalk; and the rapid declivity of the land divided by hedges, which
most likely separated the property of different occupiers. The major
part of these islands abound with stupendous mountains, in various
directions, and beyond which the summit of Pico, in a pyramidical
form rises majestically above the clouds, which were then illumined
by the rays of the setting sun. A gentle breeze springing up, we
soon lost sight of that charming prospect, and on the 9th of October
following entered the Charleston roads, in company with two other
vessels which had left Bourdeaux, the one eighteen days, and the
other a month before us.
The pleasure that we felt on discovering the shore was very soon
abated. The pilot informed us that the yellow fever had made dreadful
ravages at Charleston, and was still carrying off a great number
of the inhabitants. This intelligence alarmed the {3} passengers,
who were fourteen in number, the most of whom had either friends
or relatives in the town. Every one was fearful of learning some
disastrous news or other. The anchor was no sooner weighed than those
who had never been accustomed to warm countries were escorted by
their friends to the Isle of Sullivan. This island is situated about
seven miles from Charleston. Its dry and parched-up soil is almost
bereft of vegetation; but as it is exposed to the breeze of the open
sea, the air is generally cool and pleasant. Within these few years,
since that bilious and inflammatory disorder, commonly known by the
name of the _yellow fever_, shows itself regularly every summer at
Charleston, a great number of the inhabitants and planters, who took
refuge in the town to escape the intermittent fevers which attack
seven-tenths of those resident in the country, have built houses in
that island, where they sojourn from the early part of July till the
first frost, which usually takes place about the 15th of November. A
few of the inhabitants keep boarding-houses, where they receive those
who have no settled residence. It has been remarked that foreigners,
newly arrived from Europe or the states of North America, and {4} who
go immediately to reside in this island, are exempt from the yellow
fever.
However powerful these considerations were, they could not induce
me to go and pass my time in such a dull and melancholy abode; upon
which I refused the advice of my friends, and staid in the town. I
had nearly been the victim of my obstinacy, having been, a few days
after, attacked with the first symptoms of this dreadful malady,
under which I laboured upward of a month.
The yellow fever varies every year according to the intenseness of
the heat; at the same time the observation has not yet been forcible
enough to point out the characteristic signs by which they can
discover whether it will be more or less malignant in the summer. The
natives are not so subject to it as foreigners, eight-tenths of whom
died the year of my arrival; and whenever the former are attacked
with it, it is always in a much less proportion.
It has been observed that during the months of July, August,
September, and October, when this disorder is usually most prevalent,
the persons who leave Charleston for a few days only, are, on their
return to town, much more susceptible of catching it {5} than those
who staid at home. The natives of Upper Carolina, two or three
hundred miles distant, are as subject to it as foreigners; and those
of the environs are not always exempt from it: whence it results that
during one third of the year all communications are nearly cut off
between the country and town, whither they go but very reluctantly,
and seldom or ever sleep there. The supply of provisions at that time
is only made by the negroes, who are never subject to the fever.
On my return to Charleston in the month of October 1802, from my
travels over the western part of the country, I did not meet, on the
most populous road, for the space of three hundred miles, a single
traveller that was either going to town or returning from it; and
in the houses where I stopped there was not a person who conceived
his business of that importance to oblige him to go there while the
season lasted.
From the 1st of November till the month of May the country affords
a picture widely different; every thing resumes new life; trade is
re-animated; the suspended communications re-commence; the roads are
covered with waggons, bringing from all quarters the produce of the
exterior; an immense number of carriages and single-horse chaises
roll rapidly {6} along, and keep up a continual correspondence
between the city and the neighbouring plantations, where the owners
spend the greatest part of the season. In short, the commercial
activity renders Charleston just as lively as it is dull and
melancholy in the summer.
It is generally thought at Charleston that the yellow fever which
rages there, as well as at Savannah, every summer, is analogous to
that which breaks out in the colonies, and that it is not contagious:
but this opinion is not universally adopted in the northern cities.
It is a fact, that whenever the disease is prevalent at New York and
Philadelphia, the natives are as apt to contract it as foreigners,
and that they remove as soon as they learn that their neighbours are
attacked with it. Notwithstanding they have a very valuable advantage
that is not to be found at Charleston, which is, that the country
places bordering on Philadelphia and New York are pleasant and
salubrious; and that at two or three miles’ distance the inhabitants
are in perfect safety, though even the disorder committed the
greatest ravages in the above-mentioned towns.
I took the liberty to make this slight digression, for the
information of those who might have to go to the {7} southern parts
of the United States that it is dangerous to arrive there in the
months of July, August, September, and October. I conceived, like
many others, that the using of every means necessary to prevent the
effervescence of the blood was infallibly a preservative against this
disorder; but every year it is proved by experience that those who
have pursued that mode of living, which is certainly the best, are
not all exempt from sharing the fate of those who confine themselves
to any particular kind of regimen.
Charleston is situated at the conflux of the rivers Ashley and
Cooper. The spot of ground that it occupies is about a mile in
length. From the middle of the principal street the two rivers might
be clearly seen, were it not for a public edifice built upon the
banks of the Cooper, which intercepts the view. The most populous and
commercial part of the town is situated along the Ashley. Several
ill-constructed quays project into the river, to facilitate the
trading vessels taking in their cargoes. These quays are formed with
the trunks of palm trees fixed together, and laid out in squares
one above the other. Experience has shown that the trunks of these
trees, although of a very spungy nature, lie buried in the {8} water
many years without decaying; upon which account they are generally
preferred for these purposes to any other kind of wood in the
country. The streets of Charleston are extremely wide, but not paved,
consequently every time your foot slips from a kind of brick pavement
before the doors, you are immerged nearly ancle-deep in sand. The
rapid circulation of the carriages, which, proportionately speaking,
are far more considerable here in number than in any other part of
America, continually grinds this moving sand, and pulverizes it in
such a manner, that the most gentle wind fills the shops with it, and
renders it very disagreeable to foot passengers. At regular distances
pumps supply the inhabitants with water of such a brackish taste,
that it is truly astonishing how foreigners can grow used to it.
Two-thirds of the houses are built with wood, the rest with brick.
According to the last computation, made in 1803, the population,
comprising foreigners, amounted to 10,690 whites and 9050 slaves.
Strangers that arrive at Charleston, or at any town in the United
States, find no furnished hotels nor rooms to let for their
accommodation, no coffee-houses where they can regale themselves.
The whole of this is replaced by boarding-houses, where every thing
necessary {9} is provided. In Carolina you pay, at these receptacles,
from twelve to twenty piastres per week. This enormous sum is by no
means proportionate to the price of provisions. For example, beef
very seldom exceeds sixpence a pound. Vegetables are dearer there
than meat. Independent of the articles of consumption that the
country supplies, the port of Charleston is generally full of small
vessels from Boston, Newport, New York, and Philadelphia, and from
all the little intermediate ports, which are loaded with flour, salt
provisions, potatoes, onions, carrots, beet-roots, apples, oats,
Indian corn, and hay. Planks and building materials comprize another
considerable article of importation; and although these different
kinds of produce are brought from three to four hundred leagues,
they are not so dear and of a better quality than those of their own
growth.