situated two mile from the Mississipi river and half a mile from
the Kaskaskia River. It is inhabited by former Frenchmen under the
American Government. The number of families is about forty five. It
is agreeably situated but the number of inhabitants had decreased;
nothing is to be seen but houses in ruins and abandoned because the
French of the Illinois country, having always been brought up in and
accustomed to the Fur trade with the savages, have become the laziest
and most ignorant of all men. They live and the majority of them are
clothed in the manner of the Savages. They wear no breeches but pass
between their thighs a piece of cloth of about one third of an ell
[in length] which is kept in place before and behind above the hips
by a belt.
The 31st of August herborised.
Tuesday the first of September continued my herborising; also on the
2nd, 3rd and 4th of the same.
The 5th started for the village called Prairie du Rocher about 15
miles distant from Kaskaskia.[133] Passed by the village of St
Philippe abandoned by the French and inhabited by three families of
Americans.[134] This village is 9 Miles from Prairie du Rocher.
The 6th arrived at Kaskia [Cahokia][135] near the Mississipi ...
Miles from Prairie du Rocher.
The 7th herborised and visited the neighborhood of Kaskia.
The 8th started to return to Kaskaskia and arrived there on the 9th.
The 10th continued herborising in the vicinity of Kaskaskia Village
until the 13th of the same month.
Sunday the 13th of September crossed over with a savage guide to the
south bank of the Kaskaskia River and continued to herborise there
until the 18th of the same month.
The 18th and 19th Rained continually. Put my Collections in order and
gave my horse a rest.
Sunday the 20th ...
Kaskaskia 45 families; Prairie du Rocher from 22 to 24 families. St.
Philippe 3 American families. Fort de Chartres in ruins.[136] Kaskias
120 families. Americans at Corne de Cerf and at Bellefontaine[137] 35
families. St Louis flourishing[138] ... Prairies and hills.
Friday 2nd of October started to go by land to the place where the
Ohio falls into the Mississipi. Owing to the difficulty experienced
in crossing the Kaskaskia river we traveled only 12 Miles.
The 3rd and Sunday the 4th Rained and we crossed several prairies.
Traveled about 27 Miles.
The 5th passed more Prairies intersected by strips of Forest. My
guide killed an Elk called Cerf by the Canadians and French of
Illinois. This animal is much larger (twice as large) than the dwarf
Deer of the United States of which there is an abundance also in
the Illinois country and which the French of these countries call
Chevreuil. Its antlers are twice the size of those of the European
Stags. Below each of its two eyes is a cavity which keeps closed but,
by separating the two sides like eyelids, one can insert a finger to
the depth of an inch. This cavity seems intended for the purpose of
secreting some kind of humor. In fact on opening the cavity I found
a substance of the form and consistency of a hare’s dropping but of
the size of an acorn. This animal has canine teeth in the upper and
lower jaw like those of horses, called fangs. The hunters say that
this animal is always very fat. In fact this one was exceedingly so.
Traveled about 32 Miles.
The 6th entered the forests and crossed several rivers. Traveled ...
miles.
The 7th of October 1795 my guide killed a Buffalo which he considered
to be about four years old. It seemed to weigh over nine hundred
pounds. As it was not very fat my guide told me it was very common
to see animals at that age weighing over twelve hundred pounds. It
seemed larger than any Oxen in France and to surpass them in length
and size.
Thursday the 8th saw another Buffalo thirty toises from our Road. We
stopped to look at it. It walked very slowly but after a couple of
minutes it stopped and, recognizing us, ran away with extraordinary
speed. On the same day arrived at Fort Cheroquis otherwise called
Fort Massac by the Americans.[139] 125 Miles.
The 9th of October 1795 herborised on the bank of the Mississipi:
_Platanus Liquidamber Bonducs_, pekan Nut-trees, hiccory Nut-trees,
called by the French Noyers durs; prickly Nuts (by the French
Noyer amer) round Nuts. White Oak, _Quercus alba_, _Quercus rubra
ramosissima_, _Quercus cerroides_ (by the French chêne frisé and
by the Americans overcup White Oak), _Quercus prinus_, _Quercus
integrifolia_[140] or _Quercus foliis junioribus omnibus et adultis
semper integerrimis margine undulatis apice setaceis_. This species
of oak abounds in the Illinois Country. It loses its leaves later
than the other species of Oak. The French inhabitants call it Chêne
à lattes. In Lower Carolina it is rather rare but keeps its leaves
until the month of February or March. It seems to resemble the green
Oak from which it differs in the shape of its acorns.
_Nyssa montana_ rather rare; _Gleditsia triacanthos_; _Robinia
pseudoacacia_ (by the French fevier). The _Gleditsia triacanthos_ is
called fevier épineux and the _Guilandina dioica_ Gros fevier and
the seeds _Gourganes_. Note. On the Illinois river is a species or
variety of _Guilandina dioica_ whose seeds are twice as big as those
on the Banks of the Mississipi, Cumberland etc. _Liana Rajanioides_;
_Anonymos_[141] _ligustroides_; _Vitis_[142] _monosperma_, this species
is found along the Rivers and not in the interior of the forest; I
saw it on the Kaskaskia River, on the Mississipi in the vicinity of
fort Massac, on the Tenasse river, but it completely covers the banks
of the Cumberland river from its mouth to a distance of 45 Miles.
Sunday 11th of October 1795 started with a Guide to ascend the
Cumberland (Shavanon) river[143] in a Canoe. The rain compelled us to
return.
Tuesday the 13th hired two men at a dollar a day each to ascend
the Rivers of the Territory of the Cheroquis Savages. Started from
fort Cheroquis or Fort Massac. The distance is six Miles to reach
the mouth of the Tenassee River called by the French of Illinois
Cheroquis River.[144] This river is very great and very wide. After
ascending it about six miles we saw the tracks of a Bear on the bank.
We stopped and entered the wood when we came upon a she Bear with
cubs. The dog pursued the Mother, the cubs climbed a tree; I killed
one and the guides killed the two others. We passed the night at that
place.
The 14th very heavy Fog; we made only 5 Miles. Rain began to fall
about noon.
The 16th paddled or rowed about ten Miles owing to a heavy Wind that
began by a storm the previous evening and continued a part of the
day. We camped opposite an Island or Chain of Rocks running nearly
across the River. Nevertheless there is a channel on the south Bank
that is fairly deep and sufficient for the passage of large boats.
Banks of the Cheroquis river (Tenassee): _Platanus_; _Juglans pacana,
Hiccori_, pignut; _Liquidambar_; _Quercus rubra, prinus_; _Anonymos
carpinoides_; _Anonymos ligustroides_;[145] _Betula austrolis_
grey-bark Birch,[146] which is found throughout America from Virginia
to the Floridas; it differs from the _Betula papyrifera_; _Bignonia
catalpa_; _Ulmus_; _Fraxinus_; _Vitis rubra_ or _monosperma_;
_Gleditsia triacanthos_; _Diospiros_; _Smilax pseudochina_; _Bignonia
crucigera_, _radicans_; _Rajania ... Dioecia 8-dria_; _Populus
Caroliniana_, by the French Creoles Liard, and by the Americans
Cotton tree. (Note: The Canada Poplar is called by the Canadians
Tremble and by the English of Canada Quaking Aspen); _Acer rubrum,
saccharinum, negundo_; _Anonymos ligustroides_; _Anonymos
ulmoides_.[147]
(The 22nd of June 1795, according to the Gazette the Agents of the
French Republic were recognized by President Washington
Philip Joseph Letombe, Consul General
Théodore Charles Mozard, Consul at Boston
Jean Anthony Bern Rosier, Consul at New York
Léon Delaunay, Pennsylvania
Louis Etienne Duhait, Maryland)[148]
The 15th October 1795 herborised.
The 16th descended the river and camped at the mouth of the Shavanon
River called Cumberland river by the Americans eighteen Miles from
fort Massac; killed a Canada Goose called by the French Canadians
and Illinois French Outarde; killed two water-Hens an American
kingfisher, an American pelican.
The 17th ascended the River about ten Miles; there were numbers of
wild Turkeys on the banks; the Rowers and I killed five from the
Canoe in passing, without landing.
The 18th continued on our way toward the upper part of the River.
The 19th descended the river.
Tuesday 20th of October 1795 returned to Fort Cheroquis or Fort
Massac.
Trees and Plants in the neighborhood on the Banks of the Ohio.
_Platanus occidentalis_, by the Americans Sycamore and by the
Illinois French cotonnier; _Populus_, by the Americans Cotton
tree and by the Illinois French, Liard; _Celtis occidentalis_,
by the Americans Hackberry tree and by the French Bois inconnu;
_Liquidambar styraciflua_, by the French of Louisiana Copalm and by
the Americans....
A Frenchman who traded among the Cheroquis Savages cured himself
of the Itch by drinking for ten days a decoction of Chips of that
tree which he called Copalm and which is the true _Liquidambar_;
_Gleditsia triacanthos_, fevier (bean-plant) by the French and sweet
locust by the Americans.
_Guilandina dioica._[149]
Sunday 25th of October 1795 _Spiraea trifoliata_ is a purgative used
by the Savages and by the Illinois French. They call it Papiconah. In
the neighborhood of Fort Cheroquis is found also the Geranium called
herbe or rather Racine à Becquet which is given for chronic Diseases
during several weeks; _Veronica virginica_ called by the French herbe
à quatre feuilles (four-leaved grass) is often added.
Sunday first of November I was obliged to defer my departure, my
Horse not having been found.
Friday the 6th my Horse was brought back to the Fort and I at once
made ready to start for the Illinois. Started the same day and
journeyed about 18 Miles.
The 7th the Rain began early in the morning and continued all day.
Remained camped under a Rock where I had stopped the previous day
with my Guide.
Sunday the 8th traveled through woods and Hills.
The 9th, the same.
The 10th arrived toward evening at the Prairies.
The 11th crossed the Prairies.
The 12th toward evening Re-entered the Woods once more and slept 7
Miles from Kaskaskia river.
The 13th arrived before breakfast at Kaskaskia about 130 Miles from
Fort Massac.
The 13th of November I rested.
Sunday the 14th went out to hunt Canada Geese.
The 15th put my Collections of seeds in order.
The 16th same occupation.
The 17th I went Hunting.
Thursday 18th started for Prairie du Rocher.
The 19th Duck Hunting.
The 20th Goose Hunting.
Sunday 22nd paid visits.
The 23rd, 24th, 25th, 26th, 27th and 28th visited the Mountains of
Rock bordering on the inhabited Country; Opossums, Raccoons, aquatic
Birds etc.
Sunday 29th of November went to the Village of St Philippe called the
Little Village.
The 30th visited Fort de Chartres.
Tuesday the 1st of December started for Kaskaskias and remained there.
The 2nd and 3rd of the same Made arrangements with Richard[150] to go
by water to Cumberland.
The 4th returned to Prairie du Rocher.
The 5th prepared to start. Stuffed a white-headed wild Goose.
The 6th started once more for Kaskaskias.
The 7th confirmed once more in my opinion that the Second Bark
of _Celtis occidentalis_ (called in the Illinois country Bois
connu and toward New Orleans Bois inconnu) is an excellent remedy
for curing jaundice; a handful of the roots or leaves of Smilax
sarsaparilla is added to it; it is used for about eight days as a
decoction.
The 8th of December 1795. The French Creoles call the species of
Smilax found in the Illinois country, Squine. Only the thorny species
grows there; it loses its leaves in the Autumn. The other species is
herbaceous and climbing.
The 9th of December. The root of _Fagara_ as a decoction is a
powerful remedy for curing disease of the Spleen. I have no doubt
that the root of _Zanthoxilum clava-Herculi_ can be used for
obstructions of the liver and Spleen.
The 10th: _Bignonia Catalpa_,[151] by the French Creoles Bois
Shavanon; _Cercis canadensis_, Bois noir (black wood); _Liriodendron
tulipifera_, Bois jaune (yellow wood); _Nyssa_, Olivier (olive).
In making Wheels for vehicles the workmen use the Wood of _Padus
Virginiana_ for the felloes, Elm for the Naves and white oak for the
Spokes.
The 11th of December. Confirmed once more in my opinion that the root
of _Veronica Virginiana_, vulgarly known as Herbe à quatre feuilles
(four-leaved grass), used as a decoction for a month, is effective
for the cure of venereal Diseases. Four or five of the roots are
boiled. As this beverage is purgative the strength of this Ptisan
must be increased or reduced by putting more or less according to the
effect it has on one. It is sufficient for the first days that the
bowels be relaxed and looser than usual; it is not unusual that the
bowels be moved 3 or 4 times the first day.
I was informed at Illinois that Mackey a Scotchman and Even a
Welshman, started at the end of July 1795 from St Louis to ascend
the Missouri in a 4 oared Barge. They are aided by a Company whereof
Charles Morgan, a creole from the Islands, is Manager.[152]
December the [12th] 1795.
Sunday the 13th made my preparations for the journey to Cumberland.
The 14th started for Cumberland; passed the Salt spring on Spanish
territory. Observed _Tagetoides_. Learned the news of the peace
between France and Spain. Slept six miles from the Salt spring.
Observed on the banks of the Mississipi river _Equisetum_ which the
French Creoles call Prêle. This Plant has here a circumference of
nearly one inch and the stalk is 4 feet high.
The 15th passed Cape St Côme[153] at the foot of which the Mississipi
makes an angle. Fish is caught here in abundance; the distance from
Kaskaskia is eighteen Miles. Camped at Girardeau[154] 17 leagues from
Kaskaskia.
The 16th continued for 6 hours with Hills and Rocks on the shores
of the river, then low land. We camped at the place where the
Belle Rivière [Ohio] falls into the Mississipi. On the opposite
bank was camped Governor Don Gayoso, Governor of Natchez and upper
Louisiana.[155] He sent a Boat to find out who we were and, learning
that I was a passenger, he came to see me. He told me the news of
the Peace between France and Spain. He offered me his services. The
distance from Cape Girardeau to the Mouth of the Belle Rivière is
eighteen leagues and in all 35 leagues from Illinois.
The 17th camped at a distance of about 7 leagues.
The 18th arrived near Fort Massac; seven leagues.
The 19th camped opposite the Mouth of the River Cheroquis or Tenasse.
Sunday the 20th passed by la Pacanière; this is an extensive Swamp on
the North West side bordered by Pekan Nut-trees situate opposite or
rather a little before entering the Cumberland River.
The same day Sunday 20th of December, entered the River Shavanon or
Cumberland River the mouth of which is six long leagues from Fort
Massac. Slept two leagues above the Mouth.
The 21st rowed about 8 leagues.
The 22nd rowed about 7 leagues, and slept at the great Eddy which
is considered to be at a distance of forty five miles from the
mouth.[156]
The 23rd we camped above the Isle aux Saules (Willow Island); rowed
about 12 Miles or 4 leagues.
The 24th remained in camp. Rained all day. The River which was very
easy to navigate until today, rose considerably and flooded the woods.
The 25th Rain continued to fall mixed with hail. Remained in Camp.
The 26th Remained in camp on account of the rising of the river whose
current was too strong.
Sunday 27th of December 1795. rowed about 4 Miles only owing to the
difficulty of rowing against the current of the river. Camped at the
mouth of Little River.
The 28th crossed to the opposite bank. The current was as rapid as on
the previous days and compelled us to camp. White frost.
The 29th it again Rained heavily. Remained in camp.
The 30th the River having overflowed and flooded all parts of the
woods, we shifted camp and returned to the Little river; we ascended
it until we came to a Hill high enough to relieve us from the fear of
being flooded. Rain.
The 31st the weather became clear, the wind shifted to the North but
the river continued to overflow its banks. Most of us went hunting
wild Turkeys.
Friday first of January 1796. Wind from the north; Frost; the River
rose one inch during the night.
In the vicinity of Little river, the Country has Hills scattered here
and there. Soil clayey, very rich Mould, Rock consisting of Silex
very slightly ferruginous. Blue Limestone.
Animals: Raccoons, dwarf Deer, Opossums, Buffaloes, Bears, grey
Squirrels, Beaver, Otter, Musk-rats (these three species very rare).
Birds: Ravens, Owls of the large species, Cardinals, blue Jays; green
Parroquets with yellow heads of the small species; Jays with red
heads and throats.
Trees and Plants: _Liriodendron_; _Liquidambar_; yellow chestnut Oak,
red Oak; _Annona_; horn-bean.
The 2nd of January, still remained in camp at the same spot. Weather
cloudy. The River fell two inches only.
Sunday the 3rd Heavy wind. _Nyassa montana_ is called by the French
Creoles Olivier Sauvage and by the Kentucky Americans Black Gum tree
and by the Pennsylvania Americans Tupelo. Having nothing to do I made
ink with gall nuts which I gathered on the Oaks in the vicinity of
the spot where we were camped. It was made in less than five minutes
and will serve me as a sample. In the neighborhood of Little river
_Liriodendron_; _Liquidambar_; _Carpinus ostrya_; _Ulmus fungosa_;
_Padus Virginiana minor_; _Laurus benzoin_ etc.
The 4th rowed about 4 or 5 Miles. Camped near rather high Hills
consisting of shifting soil and rolled boulders. _Carpinus ostrya_;
_Ulmus fungosa_; _Padus Virginiana minor_; _Philadelphus inodorus_;
_Nyssa montana_, by the Americans Black gum; _Acer rubrum_; _Viscum
parasite_; _Fagus Americana_ and _Orobanche Virginiana_ a parasite on
the roots of the _Fagus Americana_; _Betula spuria_[157] called by
the French Bouleau bâtard.
Tuesday 5th of January 1796 we rowed 7 Miles and camped opposite Diev
Island 12 Miles from Little River.
The 6th the snow that fell during the night had cooled the weather.
Steep limestone Rocks from the place where we were camped continuing
for about a Mile on the east bank. Rowed about 8 Miles.
The 7th The River fell 19 inches during the night; as the frost
had lowered the water this led us to hope that it would be easier to
row against the current of this river which is naturally hemmed in
between Hills. Rowed about 8 Miles.
The 8th the river fell 19 inches during the night. Passed by the
Island of the boundary line between Cumberland and Kentuckey.
Plants on the Banks: _Platanus occidentalis_; _Betula australis_ or
_spuria_; _Acer rubrum_; _Ulmus Americana_; _Fraxinus_; _Salix_ on
the low Islands; _Anonymos ligustroides_. Rowed about 10 Miles.
The 9th the river fell nearly five feet during the night. We rowed
about ten Miles.
Sunday 10th of January the River fell 4 feet during the night.
Continual Rain and Snow. Passed Yellow Creek 16 Miles before
reaching Clark’s ville. Passed Blowming grove (?) 13 Miles before
reaching Clark’s ville. Rocks and Hills. Passed Dixon Island (?) 10
Miles before reaching Clark’s ville and at present the most remote
Settlement of Cumberland territory. This Settlement consists of
fifteen families who established themselves there three months ago.
The chief place of this settlement is called Blount’s borough or
Blount’s ville.
The 11th Rained all the previous night and a portion of the day.
Passed by a chain of Hills and by a rock called Red painted rock on
the right side of the River that is to say on the north bank of the
river 2 Miles from Clark’s ville. Afterwards passed by the red river
whose mouth is likewise on the north side and a quarter of a mile
from Clark’s ville. Finally arrived at Clark’s ville.[158]
The 12th of January 1796, remained at Clark’s ville on account of the
river rising.
The 13th Doctor Brown of Carolina who had come to found this new town
Blount’s borough 10 Miles above Clark’s ville, was at the latter
place.[159]
* * * * *
The 15th bought a horse at the price of one hundred Dollars.
The 16th departed; my horse ran away and I caught him 6 Miles from
Clark’s ville at the Mill, 10 Miles.
Sunday the 17th dined 10 Miles from Nashville at Ebneston’s a quarter
of a Mile from the Mill at the house of an old Pennsylvanian, an
educated man well informed as regards foreign news.[160] Slept at
Crokes 18 Miles from Ebneston. The Widow Martin lives near there and
her house is better for travelers.
The 18th passed the Ridges, 15 Miles, without seeing any houses as
far as White Creek. Old Stumps[161] lives 5 miles from White Creek.
The 19th started from Stumps’ and arrived at Nashville 5 Miles.
Total from Clark’s ville to Nashville 54 Miles by land and 70 Miles
by water.
From St Louis to Kaskaskias 94
From Kaskaskias to the place where the Ohio
falls into the Mississipi 95 Miles
From there to fort Massac 45 Miles
From there to the mouth of the Cumberland
river 18 Miles
From there to Clark’s ville on the red river 120 Miles
From there to Nashville 60 Miles
---------
Total 432 Miles 432
---------
(Prices at Nashville): Dinner 2 shillings, Breakfast or supper 1
shilling 4 pence; ½ Quart of Whiskey 1 shilling. Hay and maize for
Horse 2 shillings. The whole is six Shillings for one Dollar.
The 20th, 21st, and 22nd remained at Nashville.
The 23rd started from Nashville and journeyed 29¾ Miles; lodged with
Major Sharp.
Sunday the 24th of January 1796 arrived at a Creek at a distance of
29 Miles near which one Chapman keeps lodgings at 3½ Miles; MacFaddin
on Big Brown [Barren] keeps a ferry and lodgings. Total 32½ Miles.
The 25th Rain and Snow.
The 26th Started for Green river. The ground was covered with snow,
the Roads rough and my horse fell lame. I was obliged to walk. I made
12 miles. I was unable to light a fire because the trees and wood
were all frosted. I spent the night nearly frozen. About 2 o’clock
the Moon rose and I resolved to return to MacFaddin’s where I arrived
at 10 o’clock in the morning.
The 27th being overcome by cold and weariness, having traveled afoot,
having eaten nothing since the morning of the previous day and
not having slept during the night, the toes of my right foot became
inflamed. I bathed my feet in cold water several times during the
following night and no sores resulted therefrom but for several days
the toes were numb and as if deprived of sensation.
The 28th I was compelled to go a distance of seven Miles to get my
horse shod and I went to sleep at Mr. Maddison’s whose plantation was
close by.
The 29th of January 1796 I started very early in the morning as I
had 38 Miles to travel without coming to an inn or other habitation.
I had been received with all the civility that can be expected from
a man who has had a higher education than the other inhabitants of
the country. This Mr Maddisson was a Virginian and a relative of
the celebrated Madisson, Member of Congress. This gentleman was a
true Republican in his principles and I spent a very interesting
and very pleasant evening at his house.[162] His wife surpassed him
in offering me every service that hospitality could suggest, which
is seldom met with in America except in the case of persons better
educated than the common people. That Lady suggested that I should
wear heavy woollen socks over my shoes. She herself cut me out a pair
and I was so surprised at the comfort I derived from them on the
following days that I resolved never to travel in the season of snow
and frost without taking the precaution to have a pair in my Porte
Monteau. In the evening I came to a place three Miles from Green
river and slept at the house of one Walter; I slept on the floor and
my horse in the open air; but I was accustomed to this.