CALLAO TO LIMA—HISTORY
=Callao.= The harbor of Callao, six or seven days direct from Panama, in
contrast to the ports where the ship has previously called, presents an
attractive picture. If the arrival is in the early evening the brilliant
and extensive display of lights indicates a considerable city and a wide
array of shipping. By day one will admire the varied landscape, the busy
docks and the city in front, the verdure of the Rimac Valley at the left
with its scattered enclosing heights often partly hidden by clouds, and
the contrasting bluffs of the islands San Lorenzo and Fronton on the
right, which, with the long sandy bar called La Punta extending a mile
out from the city, form a well protected harbor. Of the few such on the
West Coast this alone has been actively utilized. Unfortunately the
other chief commercial ports are open roadsteads. In 1537, two years
after the founding of Lima, a city was established at the port, where
soon there was a busy harbor, with vessels bringing all kinds of
merchandise from Europe, and departing laden with rich cargoes of gold
and silver and a few other products. In the early colonial days Callao
was several times pillaged by pirates, but later suffered a far greater
calamity, exceeding the recent disasters at Valparaiso and San
Francisco, and paralleled only by the fate of Port Royal. October 28,
1746, a terrible earthquake occurred, accompanied by a tidal wave which
engulfed the city, destroying all, save one or two, of the 6000
inhabitants. The site sank beneath the ocean. The present city was
rebuilt to the north of the earlier settlement. Many ships lie at anchor
in its harbor, some at the docks, others outside: sailing vessels, large
steamers, both passenger and freight, a half-dozen men of war, Peruvian,
British, perhaps American, the last probably flying the only United
States flag visible. Seldom does a ship approach the docks on arrival,
and not at all if its stay is to be short. The freight is discharged
into lighters, the passengers with their baggage into rowboats. As the
water is always smooth, this, though inconvenient and an additional
expense, is no great hardship. The fare to the shore is 40 _centavos_. A
bargain should be made with the _fletero_, as the men are called who
have numbers on their hats indicating that they are duly licensed. These
men will take charge of your luggage, large pieces and small, delivering
it safely at your hotel in Lima. They are likely to ask double what it
is worth, not in comparison with New York prices, but with what it is
needful to pay. The Lima Express Company has a fixed tariff of 1.50
_soles_ for a large trunk, 80 _centavos_ for each piece of hand baggage,
although for several a reduction may be made. The figure agreed upon
should include the fee for taking both passengers and baggage, except
that the passenger will often make his own way from the dock to his
hotel in Lima. Stipulation should be made for the delivery of the
baggage within two or three hours, though it may then arrive much later.
What one carries one’s self should not be counted. If undecided what
hotel to patronize one may arrange with the _fletero_ for half price to
conduct him and to transport his baggage to the railway station, where
it may be checked to Lima. Trains every half hour, fare 20 _ctvs._
Leaving it at the station Desamparados in Lima, a block from the
principal plaza, the tourist may look about and arrange where to go.
Persons who have decided in advance may go with the _fletero_ to the
railway station or, after passing the customs examination at the dock,
may turn to the right, then left, and walk a block or so to the electric
cars which run every ten minutes to Lima, a ride of about twenty minutes
through the center of Callao, and along a broad boulevard to the larger
city eight miles distant. From the end of the line in Lima it is a walk
of four blocks to the left and one to the right to the Hotel Maury; or a
cab may be taken (fare for one or two persons, 40 _centavos_), to the
destination desired.
The tourist on landing will give Callao but a passing glance, and is
likely to return only to embark on his departure; but a few points of
interest may be mentioned. A floating dry dock belonging to the Peruvian
Steamship Company will receive ships of 7000 tons within the space of
two hours. The city is of foreign aspect, with buildings of one or two
stories. Noticeable are the women with stands of strange and familiar
fruits and other edibles. The newsboys seem natural; the electric cars
are of the best quality, some with compartments of the first and second
class, with prices to Lima, 20 and 10 _centavos_ respectively. Among
many narrow streets are some wide ones; two or three small but
respectable hotels afford accommodation at modest prices, one _sol_ a
day for a room, or at double the rate and more. There are several large
plazas, (open squares) and a few Clubs, the English with good quarters
fronting the bay, and with a fine view from the balconies, the Italian,
Centro Naval, Union, Boat Club, etc. Among the churches, hospitals, and
public edifices, the most noticeable is the Aduana or Custom house,
which is seen at the right from the car as it is passing through the
first plaza. Of the churches, that of La Matríz is most important. The
plaza in front is adorned with a statue of General San Martin; the Plaza
Grau has a handsome monument to the celebrated Admiral of that name;
while in the square called Dos de Mayo is a marble pillar surmounted by
a bust of José Galvez, Minister of War, killed in the naval battle at
Callao, May, 1866. Should one desire further information as to shops or
other matters, inquiry may be made at the importing house of W. R. Grace
of New York (ask for _Casa Grace_); or at one of the steamship offices,
all of which are near the landing.
PERUVIAN HISTORY
For the fuller enjoyment and appreciation of Lima, a little more
history may be an advantage. The heroes of Peru are many. The names
of a few will often be heard, and a knowledge of their valiant
deeds, a slight acquaintance with Spanish American History, is
desirable.
After the news of the Conquest had been carried to Charles V
together with the royal fifth of the gold treasure obtained by
Pizarro, the Conqueror received an additional grant of seventy
leagues of land to the south of the two hundred previously bestowed,
which began in Ecuador about one degree north of the equator. To
Almagro, Pizarro’s partner, was given two hundred leagues south of
this dominion. Just where the dividing line ran was a matter of
dispute, each claiming that Cuzco lay in his territory. However, a
truce was declared until Hernando Pizarro should arrive with the
documents, Almagro meanwhile setting out in 1535 on what proved to
be an arduous and futile expedition for the conquest of Chile. On
his return he again set up his claim to Cuzco. A contest with
Hernando Pizarro ensued; Almagro gained possession of the ancient
city, but was later put to death there by order of his old friend
and ally, Francisco Pizarro. The claim of Almagro’s son to his
father’s territory then being denied, this so enraged the followers
of that brave and generous chieftain that they resolved to avenge
his wrongs. Rushing into the house of Pizarro they slew him before
he could arm himself to resist. Thus in 1541 perished the Conqueror
after a few brief years in the enjoyment of his astonishing success.
For nearly three centuries afterward, Peru was governed by a
Viceroy, who until 1740 had authority over the whole of Spanish
South America. The Viceroy was assisted by a _Real Audiencia_,
consisting of four _oidores_ or judges who possessed extensive civil
and criminal powers. Another _Audiencia_ was also established at
Chuquisaca, Sucre, in Alto Peru, now Bolivia. During the colonial
days the Indians were greatly oppressed by the Spanish residents,
who drew vast wealth from the mines and lived in luxury and
splendor. At the same time the colonists suffered various
vicissitudes, attacks by pirates, an epidemic of smallpox, two
severe earthquakes in 1687 and 1746, and insurrections of the
Indians; but in the main the country was prosperous.
For centuries the spirit of loyalty remained, but the North American
and the French revolutions encouraged the spread of liberal ideas,
which events in Spain made easier to be carried into execution.
Although the Viceroy, Fernando Abascal, whose administration lasted
from 1806 to 1816, made many concessions and improvements, it was
impossible to stem the tide. After the abdication of Charles IV of
Spain in 1808 in favor of his son Ferdinand VII, and the subsequent
crowning of Joseph Bonaparte as king, orders were sent out for the
colonists to transfer their allegiance to the new ruler. It
happened, however, that a decree of Charles V in 1530, confirmed by
Philip II in 1563, had authorized the colonies in case of emergency
to convoke _Juntas_ or political assemblies. These convening in the
various colonial capitals declared loyalty to the banished King
Ferdinand and refused to recognize the authority of Spain while in
the hands of a usurper. The leaders were already planning ultimate
independence, but the masses were not yet weaned from their loyalty.
In Buenos Aires the Viceroy was expelled without trouble, but in the
other colonies the struggle was severe and prolonged. In Lima the
Viceroy employed harsh measures against the patriots. In 1809
royalist troops were sent from here to Quito, and an army under
General Goyeneche to Alto Peru, to oppose the revolutionists.
February 13, 1812, independence was proclaimed at Huánuco, in 1814
at Cuzco; but at length the royalists everywhere gained the day, so
that when Abascal retired to Spain in 1816, Buenos Aires alone
remained in the hands of the patriots. Nevertheless, the successor
of Abascal, General Pezuela, was the last of the Viceroys. Although
Ferdinand was now restored to the throne of Spain, the spirit in
favor of independence had become general. With an empty treasury,
and general disorder in the departments of government, the Viceroy
found himself confronted by a resurrection of the enemy who, after
victories in the south and north, at length advanced upon Peru.
First came the Liberating Army from the south, organized in Mendoza
by General San Martin, who, in 1817, had overthrown the royalists in
Chile. Landing near Pisco, 122 miles south of Lima, September 7,
1820, General San Martin issued, September 8, a proclamation stating
that he had come to liberate the people, not to make conquests.
Robbery was prohibited; and bloodshed, except on the field of
battle. The Viceroy proposed a conference which was held at
Miraflores without result.
An army of 1000 soldiers under General Arenales, dispatched by San
Martin from Pisco to the interior, after gaining many recruits
defeated a royalist force near Cerro de Pasco. Meantime San Martin
had proceeded to Ancon just north of Lima, and then to Huaura near
Huacho, while Admiral Cochrane, with his new Chilian fleet, captured
by surprise at night the Spanish frigate _Esmeralda_ in the port of
Callao. In January, 1821, the Viceroy abdicated and returned to
Spain leaving in command General La Serna, who withdrew to the
interior on the advance of the patriot army. July 12, 1821, San
Martin entered the capital; July 28, which is regarded as Peru’s
Independence Day, proclamation was made in the Plaza in front of the
palace—“From this moment Peru is free and independent by the will of
the people and by the justice of their cause which God defends.”
San Martin, now called the Protector, after organizing a provisional
government and arranging for a national congress went to Guayaquil
to meet General Simon Bolívar, who, having freed Venezuela and
Colombia, was coming from the north. The particulars of the
conference were not revealed. A disagreement was evident. San
Martin, returning, resigned the government into the hands of the
Constituent Congress which met in 1822, and withdrew to Argentina
and Europe. The assembly conferred on him the title of Founder of
Liberty of Peru, decreed a life pension and other honors; but the
pension probably lapsed, as San Martin died in comparative poverty
in 1850 at the age of seventy-two. The hero’s patriotism, courage,
skill, unselfish devotion, high principles, and sterling character
make him worthy to stand with the noblest patriots of history. His
name in South America is honored as is that of Washington in North
America, and with equal justice. It should be known among us, as is
Washington’s among them.
General Bolívar arrived in Lima September 1, 1823, and was invested
with supreme power. There were now two armies of royalist troops in
the interior; in July, 1824, the Liberating Army of the North began
its march from the sea over the mountains to Cerro de Pasco. The two
armies met, August 5, on the plain of Junín, where the patriots
gained a complete victory. General Canterac, commander of the
royalist forces, retired to Cuzco, where he was joined by the
southern army under Valdez. The patriots under General Sucre
proceeded to the Apurimac Valley. December 9, 1824, the two armies
met in the hard-fought battle of Ayacucho, which resulted in a
brilliant victory for the patriots and ended Spanish dominion in
America.
Bolívar was made President of Peru for life, the Colombian troops
were voted a magnificent reward; but in 1827 Bolívar retired to
Colombia. Of the troublous times following, up to the war with
Chile, little need be said. The name of Manuel Pardo may be
mentioned, founder of the Civil Party and President from 1872 to
1876, an able statesman, scholar, and patriot, who was assassinated
in 1878 while President of the Senate.
The War of the Pacific broke out in 1879, when Peru, in accordance
with a treaty secretly made with that country, went to the
assistance of Bolivia, after the Chilians had seized Antofagasta,
then a port of Bolivia, on account of a quarrel over an export tax
on nitrate. A noted naval engagement occurred off the coast of
Iquique, when the Peruvian ship _Huascar_ under Admiral Grau sank
the Chilian _Esmeralda_ under the heroic Captain Arturo Prat, who
lost his life in the engagement. To his widow, Admiral Grau, with
kindly spirit, sent a letter of sympathy with some relics which Prat
had carried. The other Peruvian vessel, the _Independencia_,
pursuing the Chilian _Covadonga_, ran upon hidden rocks and became a
total wreck, a misfortune which proved a death blow to Peru. For
four months Admiral Grau kept the Chilians at bay, but at last,
October 8, he was obliged to fight the two Chilian ironclads at
once. A shell striking the tower killed Admiral Grau. His four
successors in command, one after another, met the same fate. When
forced to surrender one-third of the entire force of 193 men had
been killed or wounded. The coast, 1400 miles long, was now exposed
to the enemy, and in November, 1870, the Chilians began a series of
attacks, all of which were successful, excepting the battle of
Tarapacá. Many Peruvians met a heroic death, notably Bolognesi and
others at Arica. In 1881 occurred the battles of Chorillos and
Miraflores and the capture of Lima by the Chilians, who remained in
possession of the city until the treaty of Ancon was signed,
October, 1883.
According to the terms of this treaty, the province of Tarapacá was
ceded to Chile, while Tacna and Arica were yielded for ten years, at
the expiration of which time the residents were to vote whether they
would continue as a part of Chile or return to their former
allegiance. The fact that the provinces have remained under control
of Chile without any such vote being taken, has for years been a
cause of ill-feeling between the two countries, which at times have
seemed on the verge of war.
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