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THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration:
NORTH PEAK OF MT. HUASCARÁN, 21,812 FT.
THIS PEAK, ASCENDED BY MISS PECK, SEPTEMBER 2, 1908, IS 1,500
FEET HIGHER THAN MT. McKINLEY.
]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE
SOUTH AMERICAN
TOUR
BY
ANNIE S. PECK, M.A.
Author of “A Search for the Apex of America”
_ILLUSTRATED CHIEFLY FROM
PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR_
HODDER & STOUGHTON
LONDON MCMXIV
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Copyright, 1913,
BY GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY
------------------------------------------------------------------------
INTRODUCTION
I congratulate Miss Annie S. Peck, the publisher of this book, and those
who consult or read it, upon the preparation of a work of this
character. Interest in Latin America is now so rapidly growing
throughout all the world, and especially in the United States, that a
descriptive guide-book of this kind regarding the regions commonly
visited by tourists has become an actual need; such a work by Miss Peck
is a practical and timely contribution to the literature of the day.
There are few persons better qualified to write a book of this
character. The remarkable explorations which Miss Peck has undertaken in
the most difficult sections of Latin America, and the traveling she has
done in all parts of it, not only have provided her with a vast fund of
useful information about the countries of South America but give
especial authority to what she writes. Her book contains in compact form
an amount of definite information concerning the countries considered,
which should place it in the forefront of works of this character.
While, of course, it is impossible for the Pan American Union, as an
official organization, and myself, as its official head, to endorse in
any way a particular book or accept responsibility for the statements
and views it contains, it gives me real pleasure, from a personal
standpoint, to express the hope that this work of Miss Peck will have a
wide circulation and prove of decided help in promoting travel to and
through the Latin American countries.
The Pan American Union, which, as readers of this book probably know, is
the office of all the American republics—the United States and its
twenty sister Latin American countries—organized and maintained by them
for the purpose of developing commerce, friendship, better acquaintance,
and peace among them all, is doing everything possible and legitimate to
persuade the traveling public of the United States and Europe to visit
the Latin American countries and become familiar with their progress and
development. There is no influence in the world that helps more to
advance friendship, comity, and commerce among countries than travel
back and forth of their representative men and women. Nearly every
person who visits Latin America under the advice of the Pan American
Union, upon his or her return, writes a letter expressing appreciation
that this opportunity has been afforded of seeing these wonderful
countries of the south.
In conclusion, I would observe that if those who may become interested
in Latin America through reading Miss Peck’s book desire further
information about any or all of these republics, the Pan American Union
will always be glad to provide them with such data as it may have for
distribution.
JOHN BARRETT,
Director General of the Pan American Union.
Washington, D.C., U.S.A., October, 21, 1913.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
FOR EVERY ONE
To all Americans both of the Northland and of the South this book with
due modesty is inscribed, in the hope that by inciting to travel and
acquaintance it may promote commercial intercourse, with the resulting
ties of mutual benefit and respect: in the hope, too, that the slender
cord now feebly entwining the various Republics may soon draw them all
into more intimate relations of friendship; at last into a harmonious
Sisterhood, in which neither age nor size shall confer superior rights,
but mutual confidence based upon the foundations of justice shall insure
perpetual peace.
* * * * *
The opportunity is here improved to express my grateful acknowledgment
of kindly assistance and attentions of diverse character, received
throughout my travels from many of my own countrymen, from Englishmen
invariably interested and ready to aid, and from the ever courteous and
helpful Latin Americans: officials and private individuals, with members
of my own sex. As a complete list of these would be too long I permit
myself the mention of those only who are entitled to especial
recognition, our Minister to Bolivia, 1910-1913, the Honorable Horace G.
Knowles, and the Governments of Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina, without
whose prompt and substantial aid this work would have been impossible.
That its usefulness may be such as to convey to them a valid return is
my earnest aspiration.
The indulgence of critics and of tourists is sought for errors (few, I
trust) and deficiencies which may be discovered. These and other faults
will have crept in on account of a preparation somewhat hurried that the
book might earlier be of service, and from the impossibility of securing
on some points exact and adequate information, in spite of diligent
investigation and careful scrutiny of facts and figures.
Many items of interest and importance have been omitted lest the book
should be too long. The selection of material it is hoped will be
suitable to the general reader, though doubtless every one will find
topics presented to which he is indifferent and others neglected which
appear to him of greater consequence.
Hours have been spent in searching for the best authority as to widely
different figures and even as to varying accents and spelling. In the
absence of other information a few statements have with some trepidation
been copied from authors whose recognized blunders have made their
unverified observations appear questionable.
While a different statement made by some other, albeit notable writer
cannot be taken as conclusive evidence of error, any just criticism or
suggestion presented to the author will be gratefully received and
considered with a view to incorporating it in a subsequent edition.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE
I WHAT THE TOUR IS—HOW AND WHEN TO 1
GO—WHAT IT COSTS
II THE VOYAGE TO PANAMA 6
III THE ISTHMUS—THE CANAL—COLON 12
IV COLON TO PANAMA—PANAMA CITY 23
V STEAMSHIP LINES ON THE WEST 36
COAST—ECUADOR
VI ON THE WAY TO CALLAO 43
VII SALAVERRY, CHAN CHAN, CHIMBOTE, THE 50
HUAILAS VALLEY
VIII CALLAO TO LIMA—HISTORY 59
IX LIMA, THE CITY OF THE KINGS 66
X THE SUBURBS OF LIMA—THE OROYA 86
RAILWAY—CERRO DE PASCO
XI THE SOUTHERN RAILWAY OF PERU, 99
AREQUIPA
XII THE SOUTHERN RAILWAY—CUZCO 109
XIII BOLIVIA—CUZCO TO LA PAZ 123
XIV THE CITY OF LA PAZ 133
XV OTHER REGIONS OF BOLIVIA AND ROUTES 142
TO THE SEA
XVI ALONG THE CHILIAN COAST, ARICA TO 154
VALPARAISO
XVII VALPARAISO 163
XVIII SANTIAGO 170
XIX SANTIAGO—CONTINUED 179
XX SOUTHERN CHILE—SANTIAGO TO BUENOS 191
AIRES BY SEA
XXI ACROSS THE ANDES TO MENDOZA 198
XXII ARGENTINA—ACROSS THE PLAINS TO 213
BUENOS AIRES
XXIII BUENOS AIRES 222
XXIV BUENOS AIRES—CONTINUED 238
XXV A SIDE TRIP TO IGUASSU FALLS AND TO 257
PARAGUAY, INCLUDING IMPORTANT
ARGENTINE CITIES
XXVI URUGUAY 272
XXVII BRAZIL—ALONG THE COAST TO SANTOS 286
XXVIII SANTOS AND SÃO PAULO 295
XXIX RIO DE JANEIRO—BAY AND CITY 306
XXX RIO DE JANEIRO—CONTINUED 321
XXXI RIO DE JANEIRO—CONCLUDED 330
XXXII NORTHERN BRAZIL—HOMEWARD 341
XXXIII SOUTH AMERICAN TRADE 360
INDEX 391
------------------------------------------------------------------------
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
NORTH PEAK OF MT. HUASCARÁN, 21,812 _Frontispiece_
FEET
MT. HUASCARÁN FROM AN ALTITUDE OF 56
10,000 FEET
LLANGANUCO GORGE 56
CALLAO HARBOR; RECEIVING SECRETARY 66
ROOT
PLAZA DE ARMAS, CATHEDRAL 66
PORTALES AND MUNICIPAL BUILDING 70
CALLE JUNÍN, INAUGURATION OF 70
PRESIDENT LEGUIA
PASEO COLÓN AND EXPOSITION PALACE 78
IN THE MUSEUM, EXPOSITION PALACE 78
STATUE OF BOLÍVAR, PLAZA DE LA 82
INQUISICIÓN
PERUVIAN MUMMY, UNIVERSITY OF SAN 82
MARCOS
ON THE OROYA RAILWAY 94
PLAZA, CERRO DE PASCO 96
NEAR THE SOURCE OF THE AMAZON 96
(MARAÑON)
ON THE SOUTHERN RAILWAY OF PERU 102
RELIGIOUS PROCESSION, EL MISTI AT 102
THE RIGHT
CATHEDRAL, PLAZA MATRÍZ 116
ANCIENT WALL 116
BALSAS, LAKE TITICACA 128
LA PAZ FROM THE HILLS 128
CATHEDRAL AND GOVERNMENT PALACE 134
HALL OF CONGRESS, MONUMENT TO 134
MURILLO
STREET NEAR THE MARKET 138
IN THE CEMETERY OF LA PAZ 138
MONOLITHIC GATEWAY, TIAHUANACO 142
INDIANS AT FESTIVAL, TIAHUANACO 142
MT. ILLAMPU, 21,750 FEET, FROM THE 146
PLATEAU, 13,000 FEET
SORATA TOWN 146
INDIANS TRANSPORTING FREIGHT 150
PLAZA AND GOVERNMENT PALACE, ORURO 150
VALPARAISO HARBOR 164
MONUMENT TO ARTURO PRAT, PLAZA 164
INDEPENDENCIA
AVENIDA BRAZIL, WITH BRITISH 168
MONUMENT
RESIDENCE, VIÑA DEL MAR 168
NEW HALL OF CONGRESS, LIBRARY AT 174
THE LEFT
PALACE OF FINE ARTS 180
ENTRANCE TO PARQUE SANTA LUCIA 180
PALACIO DE LA MONEDA 186
CEMETERY IN ROSE TIME 186
TIERRA DEL FUEGO 196
ENTRANCE TO ANDINE TUNNEL, CHILIAN 196
SIDE
AVENIDA DE MAYO 224
THE CAPITOL PLAZA, BUENOS AIRES 230
PALERMO PARK 230
JOCKEY CLUB STAND, HIPPODROME 236
CENTENNIAL EXPOSITION, RURAL 236
SOCIETY
BOTANICAL GARDEN 240
ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN, HOUSE OF ZEBUS 240
PATIO IN NEW HALL OF JUSTICE 246
COLÓN THEATRE 246
TOMB, RECOLETA CEMETERY 248
RECOLETA PARK 248
MERCADO DE FRUTOS AND RIACHUELO 250
BUILDING OF PUBLIC SCHOOL SARMIENTO 250
PASEO COLÓN, GRAIN ELEVATORS IN THE 252
DISTANCE
DARSENA NORD AND MARINE SHOPS 252
ON THE RIVER TIGRE 254
LEGISLATIVE BUILDING, LA PLATA 254
UNIVERSITY BUILDING, LA PLATA 256
MUSEUM, LA PLATA 256
A FRACTION OF THE IGUASSÚ FALLS 260
JUDICIARY BUILDING, ROSARIO 264
RESIDENCE ON AN ARGENTINE ESTANCIA 264
GOVERNMENT PALACE, ASUNCIÓN 268
NEW LEGISLATIVE PALACE, MONTEVIDEO 276
SOLIS THEATRE 280
GOVERNMENT PALACE 280
PORT OF SANTOS 296
LUZ STATION, SÃO PAULO 300
MUNICIPAL THEATRE 300
YPIRANGA MUSEUM 302
HOTEL OF IMMIGRANTS, SÃO PAULO 302
COFFEE FAZENDA 304
COFFEE TREE 304
AVENIDA DE RIO BRANCO 314
BOULEVARD BEIRA MAR FROM PENSÃO 314
SUISSA
NATIONAL LIBRARY 322
SCHOOL OF FINE ARTS 322
AVENIDA DO MANQUE 326
RESIDENCE OF THE PRESIDENT 332
BOTANICAL GARDEN 332
CORCOVADO FROM THE BOULEVARD BEIRA 336
MAR
THROUGH THE CLOUDS, FROM CORCOVADO 336
UNITED STATES EMBASSY, PETROPOLIS 340
STREET WITH RIVER 340
PRAÇA DE FREI CAETANO BRANDÃO, PARÁ 354
BAHIA 354
ACKNOWLEDGMENT
Miss Peck’s photograph of Mt. Huascarán,
page 56, is used by permission of Harper
& Brothers (copyright 1906), and through
the courtesy of the Pan American Union
eight illustrations were selected from Pan
American Bulletin.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR
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FOREWORD
The South American Tour! “_Como no?_” “Why not?” as many Spanish
Americans say when they wish to give hearty assent. Have you been around
the world? Do you travel for pleasure or business? Whatever your object,
whether your purse is full or you wish to fill it, the southern half of
our hemisphere is a land which should not be ignored.
What is there to see? May the journey be taken in comfort? These things
shall be revealed in detail after a few general facts have been
presented.
Is the enjoyment of scenery the chief aim of your travel? With ease you
may behold some of the finest in the world,—much more if you care to
take a little trouble: snow clad mountains galore rising above 20,000
feet, dwarfing the Alps into insignificance, giants to be admired not
only from afar as tourists in India gaze upon the Himalayas, but from
nearer points, even from their very foot; smoking volcanoes, cliffs more
lofty than those of the Yosemite, wonderful lake scenery including the
highest sheet of water (12,500 feet) where steamboats ply; strange yet
fascinating deserts; wondrous waterfalls, one of these surpassing
Niagara in height, volume, and beauty; magnificent tropical vegetation
and forests, the highest railroads, the most picturesque and beautiful
harbor of the world. All of these, with the exception of the great
cataract, are easily accessible, and form a combination of scenic
attractions unsurpassed in any portion of the globe.
Do strange people and cities interest you more? You may wander in towns
old and quaint, containing buildings of centuries past, and in cities
quite up to date growing with the rapidity of our own. In a few places
Indians in peculiar garb may be seen by the side of Paris gowns and
English masculine attire, in others an Indian with sandals, hood, and
poncho would attract as much attention as on Broadway. Several cities
have boulevards, parks, and opera houses finer than any of which North
America can boast.
Do you care for ruins, antiquities? These also abound. Whole cities of
the dead are there, and others where the new civilization rises above or
by the side of the old. Temples, palaces, fortifications, ancient
statues, mummies, and pottery may be cursorily admired or profoundly
studied, and search may still be made for undiscovered monuments of a
prehistoric past.
These countries rapidly advancing, with astonishing mineral and
agricultural resources awaiting development, with railroads to be laid,
with fast growing markets for almost every kind of merchandise, invite
the trader and the capitalist to investigate hitherto neglected
opportunities before it is too late.
Well informed as to what there is to see, the possible tourist is
certain to inquire if the journey will be comfortable. Perhaps, indeed,
the order of the questions should be reversed; for few, I greatly fear,
would be tempted to say “Let _us_ go!” if the tour involved any
hardship. Happily this is not the case. Though the _Imperator_, the
_Mauretania_, and the _Olympic_ do not yet sail in that direction, the
names of several steamship lines which serve the traveler to Panama, or
Buenos Aires are a guarantee of comfort and of sufficient luxury. The
steamers elsewhere are commodious, having for the most part state rooms
provided with electric fans, and satisfying all reasonable requirements.
The railroads in the various countries have the usual equipment. The
hotels, if one does not depart from the ordinary line of travel, will in
general be found satisfactory, providing excellent food, good beds,
etc., and in those cities where some little time should be spent meeting
the wants of all except the ultra fastidious tourist.
If we do not sympathize with the cry “See America _first_,” bearing in
mind that America is the whole and not a fraction of the Western
Continent, at least, when we have seen the Old World, instead of ever
retracing our steps in familiar ways, let us seek the strange _New_
World beyond the equator where a brief tour will reveal a multitude of
scenes amazing and delightful, even to the experienced traveler.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR
CHAPTER 1
WHAT THE TOUR IS—HOW AND WHEN TO GO—WHAT IT COSTS
=The South American Tour=, rapidly becoming fashionable and popular, and
about to be described, includes the most interesting and accessible
portions of that continent,—its finest scenery, its greatest cities. A
wonderful variety in the swiftly moving pictures prevents any dullness
on the part of the intelligent traveler, who is ever kept alert for the
continually fresh experiences of this remarkable journey.
=Where.= My tourist party will be conducted first to Panama, where soon
the sail from ocean to ocean through an immense artificial channel will
awaken sensations of wonder and pride. The opportunity then to continue
in the same vessel along the West Coast of South America, invaluable for
commerce and for those on business bent, may prove a disadvantage to the
pleasure traveler, by tempting him to pass with a mere glance the City
of Panama and other spots worthy of observation.
On the Pacific side Peru, Bolivia, and Chile will be visited by every
one: a few may make the side trip to Ecuador,—Guayaquil and Quito. In
order to return along the East Coast one may complete the circuit of the
continent by sailing down, through the Straits of Magellan, past Punta
Arenas, and up on this side, or with the greater number may cross the
Andes by rail, thus to reach the metropolis of South America, Buenos
Aires. Thence, after, or if not including, an excursion to Paraguay and
to the greatest of American waterfalls, the Iguassú, one may sail to
Montevideo in Uruguay, from there to Brazil, returning from Rio de
Janeiro directly to New York, or by way of Europe as preferred.
Similarly the trip may be made from _Europe_ by several lines of
steamers direct to Panama, or more quickly by way of New York, with a
return from Rio.
Altogether omitted from this itinerary are the countries on the northern
shore of South America. Of these Colombia and Venezuela are better
included in a West India trip. The Guianas by ordinary tourists are
neglected.
Obviously the journey may be made in either direction: as above, or in
reverse order; but unless the season of the year invites a change the
former sequence should by all means be followed. Thus taken the journey
is one of ever increasing interest, until its culmination in the
delightful harbor and city of Rio de Janeiro. Not that Peru is inferior
to Bolivia and Chile, or Buenos Aires to Rio, let me hasten to add; each
has its own peculiar charm; but one who begins with the West Coast will
find the entire journey far more enjoyable and impressive.
=When= one should go depends more upon when one wishes to leave home
than upon the conditions prevailing in South America; also upon one’s
individual taste as to temperature. In brief, one may safely make the
trip whenever it suits his convenience. Bearing in mind what so many
seem to forget, that the seasons are reversed in the northern and
southern hemispheres, one may leave home to escape either heat or cold,
or to avoid March winds, as he may elect. In none of the countries to be
visited is the variation between winter and summer so great as in the
latitude of New York, nor is the tropical heat anywhere on the journey
so intense as that on many days of every summer here.
Leaving the United States on a four months’ tour at any time between the
middle of November and the last of August, I strongly advise one to
visit the West Coast first. During the remaining three months, one who
dislikes hot weather might better begin with Brazil. In December,
January, and February, the mercury at Rio is mostly in the eighties. In
January I found it comfortable enough for summer weather, but I needed
the ten degrees lower temperature of an earlier or a later season to
make my visit absolutely ideal. With a delightful climate during nine
months of the year, the city at any time is perfectly healthy; since the
yellow fever, formerly a dreaded scourge, was stamped out at Rio during
the same period that this was accomplished in Panama.
Buenos Aires also may be more advantageously visited during the cooler
weather, both because the opera and social festivities are then in full
swing, and because one is likely to be more energetic for sight-seeing,
of which there is much to be done. In Peru and Bolivia, on the usual
route of travel it is never hot enough to be troublesome. Chile, in the
central and most visited portion, is a trifle less agreeable during the
southern summer than in spring or fall, especially on account of the
dust, but this matters little for a brief stay.
=Four months= should be allowed for the trip. A couple who made it in
three, though delighted with their journey, mourned over the unavoidable
omissions and were planning to go again. Six months is not too much; a
whole year could be profitably employed: but in four months or a trifle
more, one may visit the most important places and gain a fair idea of
the various countries. The personally conducted parties for three months
only are well worth while.
=The expense= of the trip will naturally vary according to the time and
extent of the journey and the economy or extravagance of the tourist. A
round trip ticket from New York to New York, good either by the Straits
or across the Andes, may be purchased for $475, or including a return by
way of Europe for $505. Additional expenses may be from $500 or less to
$1000 or more according to the person, the time, and the number of side
trips taken. By several tourist agencies personally conducted parties
are semi-annually dispatched to South America at a cost varying from
$1375 for a tour of 98 or 99 days to $2250 for 146 days. Also the
Hamburg-American Line has sent a ship around to Valparaiso by way of the
Straits. Tickets $475 to $3000; optional extra shore trips $300 or more.
On the completion of the Canal they will probably have a ship making the
entire circuit.
Persons who prefer to be relieved of care, or who do not speak Spanish,
the language current at all points of the journey save Brazil, and there
understood by educated people, will do well to join a party, especially
if their time is limited. Those who can devote a longer period to the
trip and who like to do their own planning may see more by themselves at
either greater or less expense. One who speaks only English, by keeping
to the main line of travel and patronizing the leading hotels, should
have no serious difficulty; though it is, of course, an advantage,
readily gained by one who is familiar with Latin or French, to have some
acquaintance with Spanish, an easy and beautiful language. A bare
smattering picked up from a phrase book on the voyage is better than
nothing, while a conversational knowledge greatly enhances the pleasure
and profit of the journey.
=Baggage.= In regard to baggage, the less taken the better, both on
account of the expense and because of the care it entails; yet it is
well to have a fair supply of good clothes, since evening dress is
everywhere more strictly _en règle_ than in most parts of the United
States. The steamships are not all rigid as to the precise amount of
baggage, though the allowance on different lines varies from 150 to 400
lbs.; the railroads are strict and extra baggage is expensive; only 100
lbs. are allowed. Going up to Bolivia by the Southern Railway of Peru, a
heavy box or two may cost as much as the ticket. Many tourists take only
hand baggage to Cuzco and La Paz, leaving on board the steamer their
heavy pieces, to be reclaimed later at Valparaiso. On all roads, the
hand baggage goes free; hence suit cases, etc., are much in evidence.
=Clothing.= One needs a supply of both light and heavy weight, the
proportion of each depending upon the season of the year. Always by way
of the Isthmus there are eight or ten days of summer weather en route,
and several weeks during the East Coast journey. Along the seaboard of
Peru and Chile woolen or heavy underwear may be desirable for many, as
on the highlands of Peru and Bolivia; also in Chile and Argentina during
their winter season, when a temperature in the forties and fifties will
be experienced; some hotels have no fires, and the nights and mornings
are chill. On the mountain railways, as during a portion of the sea
voyage, wraps and rugs are needed in addition to moderately heavy
clothing. Furs though unnecessary may be found agreeable during the
months of winter, June to September.
=Money= may be carried in letters of credit on W. R. Grace or other
bankers, or by American Express or Travelers’ Cheques, together with a
moderate supply of gold, preferably in English sovereigns. The English
pound, being precisely the same as the Peruvian, is interchangeable with
them; in other countries it is more acceptable and convenient than
American gold, though in the large cities either will be readily
exchanged. A point to be noted and _remembered_ is that most resident
Americans and English, a few natives, and travelers in South America
generally, speak of certain coins, _soles_ or _pesos_, as dollars; a
poor custom which should not be imitated. Since it is prevalent, one
must be on guard to avoid mistakes. In Panama a clerk or a coachman
saying twenty cents or one dollar means silver; _i. e._, 10 and 50
cents, United States currency. A man in Lima who speaks of twenty
dollars probably means _soles_, practically ten dollars. In Bolivia a
_bolivian_ is about 40 cents, a _peso_ in Chile is 22 cents more or
less, in Argentina 44, in Uruguay $1.04; in Brazil a _milreis_ is 33
cents. All of the countries divide their unit decimally, and if it were
not for the foolish custom of English-speaking folk, there would be no
confusion. In this book the words dollars and cents and the sign $ will
everywhere signify United States currency; otherwise the names employed
by the respective countries will be used, as _soles_, _pesos_, and
_centavos_. In connection with Brazilian money the sign $ is put after
the number; thus 15 _milreis_ is written 15$000.
------------------------------------------------------------------------