Parboil eight choice onions about one hour. Remove from the water and

cut out a circular piece from the top of each to form cups. Chop, fine,

the pieces of onion; add an equal measure of cold, cooked ham, salt and

pepper to season, one-fourth a cup, each, of fine, soft crumbs and

melted butter and mix thoroughly. Season the inside of the cups with

salt, then stuff with the prepared mixture. Bake slowly about half an

hour, basting with melted butter. Serve decorated with celery tips.

Oyster-and-Onion Puree

Steam one pound of white onions, and when tender sift through a

colander. Cook one quart of oysters in their liquor until the gills

separate; strain, and chop the oysters in a chopping bowl. Return the

liquor to the saucepan, and cook with three tablespoonfuls of flour and

three tablespoonfuls of softened butter, rubbed together, stirring

constantly until well thickened and smooth. Season with one teaspoonful

and one-half of salt and one-half a teaspoonful of pepper. Sift into the

onion-pulp one-fourth a cup of flour, and stir until blended; add

one-fourth a teaspoonful of celery seed and one bayleaf, and mix with

the thickened oyster liquor. Stir until the whole comes to a boil and

the puree is thick as porridge. Add the chopped oysters and one pint of

thin cream, let heat through, and serve with oysterettes, saltines or

other plain crackers.

Salmon a la Creole

Clean and scale a small salmon, stuff with one-half a loaf of stale

bread moistened with hot water, seasoned with one-fourth a cup of

butter, salt and pepper to taste, and one-half a cup of capers. Mix all

well, and bind with one beaten egg. Place the salmon on the rack of a

baking-pan in a very hot oven, cover with thin slices of bacon, and let

cook until done. Serve on a bed of chopped fresh mushrooms, cooked in a

little bouillon, and garnish the dish with small fresh tomatoes.

Brother Jonathan

Make a mush of yellow cornmeal, and mould in cylindrical moulds, such as

baking powder boxes or brown bread moulds. Let stand until next day, and

cut into slices. Arrange the slices on a large porcelain pie-plate in

pyramidal form, sprinkling each layer with some sharp, hard cheese,

grated, and seasoned with a very little red pepper. Sift buttered crumbs

freely over the whole; brown in a hot oven, and serve as a vegetable

with fish, with sour grape jelly melted and poured over it.

Plymouth Succotash

Boil, separately, one chicken and four pounds of corned beef. The next

day remove meat and fat from both kettles of liquid, combine liquids,

season with salt (if needed) and pepper; when boiling add five quarts of

hulled corn; remove to slow fire and let simmer three hours. Have ready

three pints of New York pea beans that have been soaked twelve hours,

boiled until soft and strained through a sieve; add to soup (for

thickening). Boil one yellow turnip (or two white turnips), and six

potatoes; when done add to succotash. This recipe makes eight quarts.

[Illustration: PLYMOUTH SUCCOTASH]

[Illustration: NEW ENGLAND SALAD]

New England Salad

Dress flowerets of cold, cooked cauliflower with oil, salt, pepper and

vinegar. From cold, cooked beets remove the top and center portions to

make beet cups. Arrange the prepared cauliflower to fill cups, pour over

boiled salad dressing and arrange a heart of celery in each filled

beet-cup.

Guinea Chickens

Clean and truss two guinea chickens; place on a bed of sliced, uncooked

carrots, potatoes and celery, arranged in the bottom of a casserole--(a

large bean-pot serves as well). Sprinkle the chicks with salt and pour

over them melted butter; set the cover in place. Bake in a moderate oven

one hour and one-quarter, basting every fifteen minutes with melted

butter. Add no water to the casserole.

[Illustration: GUINEA CHICKENS]

Rib Roast of Beef with Yorkshire Pudding

Place a rib roast of beef on a rack in a dripping pan; dredge with flour

and sear over the outside in a hot oven, then add salt and pepper and

drippings and let cook at a low temperature until done, basting every

ten minutes. Remove to a platter and serve with Yorkshire pudding.

Yorkshire Pudding

Sift together one cup and a half of flour, and one-third a teaspoonful

of salt; gradually add one cup and one-half of milk, so as to form a

smooth batter; then add three eggs, which have been beaten until thick

and light; turn into a small, hot dripping pan, the inside of which has

been brushed over with roast beef drippings; when well risen in the pan,

baste with the hot roast beef drippings. Bake about twenty minutes. Cut

into squares and serve around the roast.

Apple Mint Jelly for Roast Lamb

Cut the apples in quarters, removing imperfections. Barely cover with

boiling water, put on a cover and let cook, undisturbed, until soft

throughout. Turn into a bag to drain. For a quart of this apple juice

set one and one-half pounds of sugar on shallow dishes in the oven to

heat. Set the juice over the fire with the leaves from a bunch of mint;

let cook twenty minutes, then strain into a clean saucepan. Heat to the

boiling point, add the hot sugar and let boil till the syrup, when

tested, jellies slightly on a cold dish. Tint with green color-paste

very delicately. Have ready three to five custard cups on a cloth in a

pan of boiling water. Let the glasses be filled with the water; pour out

the water and turn in the jelly. When cooled a little remove to table.

(English recipe.)

Marinaded Cutlets

Cut a pound of the best end of neck of mutton into cutlets, allowing two

cutlets for each bone, beat them with a cutlet bat and trim them

neatly. Let them soak for an hour in a marinade made by mixing six

tablespoonfuls of red wine vinegar, one tablespoonful of olive oil, half

a teaspoonful of salt, six bruised peppercorns, a minced onion, a sprig

of thyme, and a bayleaf. At the end of the hour drain the cutlets, and

dredge them with flour to dry them. Brush over each one with beaten egg,

and roll it in bread-crumbs; repeat the egging and breadcrumbing a

second time, and, if possible, leave them for an hour for the crumbs to

dry on. Half fill a deep pan with frying-fat, and when it is heated, so

as to give off a pale blue vapor, place the cutlets carefully in the

pan, and when they float on top of the fat and are of a rich brown

color, they are sufficiently cooked, and must be taken from the fat and

drained on kitchen paper before being served _en couronne_, or on a

mound of mashed potatoes, green peas, French beans, or Brussels sprouts.

[Illustration: RIB ROAST WITH YORKSHIRE PUDDING]

Veal cutlets, fillets of beef, fillets of white fish, or cutlets of cod

or hake, are excellent when prepared by the same method. (English

recipe.)

Thanksgiving Corn Cake

Sift together two cups of corn meal, two cups of white flour, four

_heaping_ teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one LEVEL teaspoonful of soda,

one teaspoonful of salt, and one-half a cup of sugar. Add one cup of

sour milk (gradually), three-fourths cup of sour cream, four eggs and

one-third a cup of melted butter.

[Illustration: THANKSGIVING CORN CAKE]

Thanksgiving Pudding

Beat the yolks of four eggs; add one pint of soft bread crumbs, one cup

of sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, one teaspoonful of salt, and one

cup of large table raisins from which the seeds have been removed; mix

all together thoroughly, then add one quart of rich milk. Bake in a very

moderate oven until firm in the center. When the pudding has cooled

somewhat, beat the whites of four eggs dry; beat in half a cup of sugar

and spread or pipe the meringue over the pudding; dredge with granulated

sugar and let cook in a very moderate oven about fifteen minutes; the

oven should be of such heat that the meringue does not color until the

last few minutes of cooking.

Coffee Fruit Punch

Add one-half a cup of fine-ground coffee to one cup of cold water, bring

very slowly to a boil, and let simmer for ten minutes. Strain, allow

grounds to settle, decant, and add one cup of sugar. Mix one-half a cup

of sifted strawberry preserve with the juice of two lemons, the juice of

three oranges and the grated rind of one, and half a cup of pineapple

juice. Let the whole stand together for half an hour; then strain, add

the coffee, a quart or more of Vichy, or any preferred sparkling water,

and serve in tall glasses filled one-third full with shaved ice; garnish

each with a thin strip of candied angelica.

[Illustration: SWEET CIDER FRAPPE]

Sweet Cider Frappe

Make a syrup by boiling one cup of sugar and two cups of water fifteen

minutes; add one quart of sweet cider and one-half a cup of lemon juice;

when cool freeze--using equal parts of ice and salt. Serve with roast

turkey or roast pork.

Fig-and-Cranberry Pie

Chop one-half a pound of figs and cook until tender in a pint of water.

Add a pint of cranberries, and cook until they pop. Mix one cup of sugar

with four tablespoonfuls of flour and stir into the fig-and-cranberry

mixture; let boil, remove from fire, and stir in two tablespoonfuls of

butter and the juice of one-half a lemon. Put into a pastry shell,

arrange strips of paste in a basket pattern over the top, and bake until

these are browned.

Dry Deviled Parsnips

Wash and scrape--not pare--three large parsnips; cut in halves,

lengthwise, and place, cut side uppermost, on the grate of a rather hot

oven to bake for thirty to forty minutes, or until soft and lightly

browned. Soften one-half a cup of butter, without melting it, and rub

into it the following mixture: Two teaspoonfuls of salt, four

tablespoonfuls of dry mustard, one-half a teaspoonful of cayenne, one

teaspoonful of white pepper, and flour enough to stiffen the paste. When

the parsnips are cooked make four slanting cuts in each of the halves,

and fill each with as much of the paste as it will hold. Spread over the

flat side with the remainder of the paste, arrange on the serving dish,

sift fine buttered crumbs over them, and place under the gas flame, or

on the upper rack of an oven until crumbs are brown.

King's Pudding With Apple-Jelly Sauce

Soak, over-night, one-half a cup of well-washed rice, and cook in one

pint of milk in double boiler until very tender. Mix this with three

cups of apple sauce, well-sweetened and flavored with cinnamon. Add the

beaten yolks of two eggs, one ounce, each, of candied citron and orange

peel, very fine-chopped, and one-half a cup of raisins. Add, the last

thing, the whites of the eggs, beaten to the stiffest possible froth.

Line a deep dish with a good, plain paste, pour in the pudding, bake

until both paste and pudding top are brown, invert on serving dish and

pour the sauce over it.

Apple-Jelly Sauce

Beat one-half a cup of apple jelly until it is like a smooth batter;

gradually add two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, the juice of one

lemon and one-half the grated rind, and a few gratings of nutmeg. Set

into a saucepan of boiling water until ready to use, then beat well and

pour over the pudding.

[Illustration: CRANBERRY TART]

Cranberry Tart

Spread a round of paste over an inverted pie plate, prick the paste with

a fork eight times. Bake to a delicate brown. Remove the paste from the

plate, wash the plate and set the pastry inside. When cold fill with a

cold, cooked cranberry filling and cover the filling with a top pastry

crust, made by cutting paste to a paper pattern and baking in a pan.

Arrange tart just before serving.

Cooked Cranberry Filling

Mix together three level tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, three-fourths a

teaspoonful of salt and one cup and one-half of sugar; pour on one cup

and one-half of boiling water and stir until boiling, then add one-third

a cup of molasses, two teaspoonfuls of butter and three cups of

cranberries, chopped fine. Let simmer fifteen minutes.

Pumpkin Fanchonettes

Mix together one cup and a half of dry, sifted pumpkin, half a cup of

sugar, two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of molasses, one tablespoonful of

ginger, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, one teaspoonful of

cinnamon, one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and one cup of rich milk.

Pour into small tins lined with pastry, and bake about twenty-five

minutes. Serve cold; just before serving decorate with whipped cream.

[Illustration: PUMPKIN FANCHONETTES]

Pilgrim Cookies

Let soak overnight one cup of seedless raisins, then drain and dry on a

cloth. Cream one-third a cup of butter; beat in one cup of brown sugar,

one tablespoonful of milk, and two eggs, beaten light. Add the raisins,

and one cup of flour, sifted with one-half a teaspoonful, each, of

nutmeg and cinnamon and two teaspoonfuls and one-half of baking powder.

When thoroughly mixed, add one-half a cup of graham flour, unsifted, and

one-half a cup of bran, unsifted.

[Illustration: PILGRIM COOKIES]

Pyramid Birthday Cake

Bake any good layer cake or other simple cake mixture in one or two thin

sheets, in a large pan. When done cut into as many graduated circles as

the child is years old. Ice each circle, top and sides, with any good

cake icing, either white or tinted, and lay one above the other with

layers of jelly or preserves between slices. Around each layer arrange a

decoration of fresh or candied fruits of bright colors, glaceed nuts,

candied rose petals or violets, bits of angelica, or any other effective

decoration. Let the cake stand on a handsomely decorated dish, and small

flags be inserted in the topmost layer.

[Illustration: FRUIT AND MELONS]

Stirred Brown Bread

Measure three cups of graham flour into a large mixing-bowl; add one cup

of bran, and sift on to these one cup and one-half of white flour, to

which one and one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt has been added. Stir

together until mixed. Dissolve one teaspoonful of baking soda in a

tablespoonful of hot water, and add to two cups of buttermilk. Melt two

tablespoonfuls of butter and one of any preferred substitute, mix with

one-half a cup of molasses, stir into the buttermilk, and add all to the

dry ingredients, stirring vigorously. Lastly, add one-half a compressed

yeast cake to the batter, and stir again until the yeast is thoroughly

incorporated with the batter, which should be very stiff. Place in a

greased bread pan, cover, set in a warm place until batter has risen to

top of pan or doubled in bulk. Bake one hour in an oven with gradually

increasing heat. This bread keeps fresh for a long time, and is

particularly good sliced thin for sandwiches.

Swedish Pancakes With Aigre-Doux Sauce

Beat, until light, the yolks of six eggs; add one-half a teaspoonful of

salt, one teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in one tablespoonful of

vinegar, then two cups of sifted flour, alternately, with the beaten

whites of the eggs, and if necessary add enough milk to make a thin

batter. Pour a small ladleful at a time on the griddle; spread each

cake, when cooked, with raspberry jam, roll up like a jelly roll, pile

on a hot platter, dust over with powdered sugar, and serve with each one

a spoonful of Aigre-Doux Sauce.

Aigre-Doux Sauce

Add to two cups of sour cream the juice and fine-grated rind of one

large lemon. Stir in enough sugar just to develop a sweet taste,

one-half a cup or more, and beat hard and long with a Dover beater until

the sauce is quite light.

Sauteed Cucumbers and Tomatoes

Pare four large cucumbers and cut in quarter-inch slices; season by

sprinkling with salt and pepper, then dip in beaten egg, and afterwards

in fine, sifted crumbs. Proceed in the same manner with two firm

tomatoes, removing the skin by dipping first into boiling water, then

into cold, and rubbing the skin off. The tomatoes should be cut in

half-inch slices. Heat a large spider until very hot; add two or more

tablespoonfuls of dripping or other fat, and saute in this, first the

cucumbers, then the tomatoes, turning the slices when browned on one

side, and cooking until crisped. Serve in a hot vegetable dish.

Skirt Steak, with Raisin Sauce

Make a rich stuffing by chopping together three-fourths a pound of

veal, one-half a pound of ham, and an ounce of beef suet or other fat.

Add the grated rind of a small lemon, and a teaspoonful of dried, mixed

herbs, or of kitchen bouquet, two beaten eggs, a grate of nutmeg, and

one cup of cream. Cook all together over hot water until mixture is the

consistency of custard; thicken further with fine bread crumbs, and let

cool. Divide a two-pound skirt steak into halves, crosswise, spread the

stuffing over both parts, roll up each one and tie. Let steam for half

an hour, then put into a hot oven to finish cooking and brown. Serve

with Raisin Sauce.

Raisin Sauce for Skirt Steak

Add one-half a cup of seeded raisins to one pint of cold water, set over

fire, bring slowly to a boil and let simmer, gently, for fifteen

minutes. Blend two tablespoonfuls of flour with one-half a teaspoonful

of salt and one-fourth a teaspoonful of white pepper, and stir this into

two scant tablespoonfuls of melted butter or butter substitute; add to

the raisins and water, and let boil, keeping stirred, for three minutes.

Remove from fire and add the juice of one-half a lemon or two

tablespoonfuls of vinegar.

Boudin Blanc

Cook a dozen small onions, sliced, in a saucepan with one cup of sweet

leaf-lard. While cooking put through the meat chopper one-half a pound,

each, of fresh pork and the dark and white meat of a fowl or chicken.

Add to saucepan containing onions and lard, and stir in enough fine

bread crumbs to make the whole the consistency of a soft dough. Add

seasoning of salt and pepper with a spoonful of mixed dried herbs.

Lastly, add one cup of sweet cream and three well-beaten eggs, and stir

the whole until the eggs are set. Stuff this into pig entrails, making

links six inches long. Keep stored in a cool place, and cook like

sausage. Or the boudin may be packed into jars, and sliced or cut into

dice and sauteed when cold.

Seasonable Menus for Week in November

SUNDAY

Breakfast

Oranges

Corn Flakes with Hot Milk

Codfish Balls

Buttered Toast

Marmalade

Coffee

Dinner

Roast Leg of Lamb

Mashed Potatoes

Spinach with Egg

Creamed Turnips

Celery Salad

Date Souffle

Coffee

Supper

Oyster Stew

Crackers

Lettuce-and-Peanut Butter Sandwiches

Soft Gingerbread

Cocoa

MONDAY

Breakfast

Malt Breakfast Food, Top Milk

Scrambled Eggs with Tomato

Graham Muffins

Coffee

Luncheon

Potage Parmentier

Savory Hash, Meat and Potatoes

Tea Tarts

Russian Tea

Dinner

Planked Steak, Parkerhouse Style

Head Lettuce

King's Pudding, with Apple Jelly Sauce

Black Coffee

TUESDAY

Breakfast

Dates

Gluten Grits, Cream

Baked Potatoes

Bacon

Graham Toast, Butter

Coffee

Luncheon

Salmon a la Creole

Pulled Bread

Sweet Potato Croquettes

Pears in Syrup

Milk or Tea

Dinner

Stuffed Leg of Pork

Mashed Potatoes

Apple Sauce

Fig-and-Cranberry Pie

Coffee

WEDNESDAY

Breakfast

Winter Pears

Wheatena, Milk

Pork-and-Potato Hash

Raised Pancakes, Syrup

Coffee

Luncheon

Oyster-and-Onion Puree

Crusty Rolls

Apple-and-Nut Salad

Cocoa

Dinner

Skirt Steak with Raisin Sauce

Dry Deviled Parsnips

Baked Sweet Potatoes

Cherry Pie

Coffee

THURSDAY

Breakfast

Cream of Wheat, Cream

Tomato Omelet

Stirred Brown Bread

Coffee

Luncheon

Potato-and-Peanut Sausages

Cabbage-and-Celery Salad, with Cheese

Strawberry Gelatine Jelly

Tea

Dinner

Boiled Tongue

Steamed Potatoes

Creamed Carrots

Brussels Sprouts

Apple Pie a la Mode

Coffee

FRIDAY

Breakfast

Grapefruit

Cracked Wheat, Milk

Creamed Finnan Haddie

Hashed Brown Potatoes

Popovers

Coffee

Luncheon

Frumenty with Cream

Escaloped Chipped Beef and Potatoes

Chocolate Layer Cake

Cafe au Lait

Dinner

Halibut Steaks

Brother Jonathan

Creamed Cabbage

Chow-Chow

Apricot Puffs with Custard Sauce

Coffee

SATURDAY

Breakfast

Gravenstein Apples

Quaker Oats, Milk

Scrambled Eggs with Bacon

Steamed Brown Bread

Coffee

Luncheon

Puree of Baked Beans

Castilian Salad (Pineapple, Nuts, Apples, Grapes, Celery)

Swedish Pancakes with Aigre-Doux Sauce

Chocolate

Dinner

Veal Stew

Browned Sweet Potatoes

Lima Beans in Tomato Sauce

Leaf Lettuce with Fr. Dressing

Brown Betty with Foamy Sauce

Coffee

Menus for Thanksgiving Dinners

I

_Three-Course Dinner for Small Family in Servantless House_

Roast Chicken, stuffed with Chopped Celery and Oysters

Baked Sweet Potatoes

Boiled Onions

Salad

(Fine chopped apples and nuts in red apple cups)

Cream Dressing

Mince or Squash Pie a la mode

Sweet Cider

Coffee

II

_A Simple Company Dinner of Six Courses_

Celery

Clam Bouillon, Saltines

Ripe Olives

Roast, Chestnut-Stuffed Turkey, Giblet Sauce

Buttered Asparagus

Glazed Sweet Potatoes

Moulded Cranberry Jelly

Chicken Salad in Salad Rolls

Thanksgiving Pudding

Hard Sauce

Chocolate Ice Cream

Strawberry Sauce

Assorted Fruit

Coffee

III

_A Formal Company Dinner. Eight Courses_

Curled Celery

Oyster Soup, Bread Sticks

Radish Rosettes

Turbans of Flounder

Hollandaise Sauce

Potato Straws

Olives

Crusty Rolls

Salted Nuts

Capon a la Creme

(Stuffing of Potatoes, Mushrooms, Chestnuts, etc.)

Mashed Potatoes

Green Pea Timbales

Cranberry Sauce

Sweet Cider Frappe

Venison Steaks

Currant Jelly Sauce

Baked Parsnips

Apple-and-Grape Salad

Macaroon Pudding

Frozen Mince Pie

Hot Chocolate Sauce

Glaceed Walnuts

Fruit

Black Coffee

IV

_Elaborate Formal Dinner. Ten Courses_

Fruit Cocktail

Oysters on Half-shell

Brown Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches

Quartered Lemons

Clear Bouillon, Oysterettes

Radishes

Celery

Boiled Halibut

Potato Balls in Parsley Sauce

Sweet Pickles

Cauliflower au Gratin

Braised Turkey or Capon

Bread Stuffing

Giblet Gravy

Duchesse Potatoes

Spinach

Crystallized Ginger

Salted Pecans

Pineapple Fritters, Lemon Sauce

Granite of Cider and Apples

Cutlets of Duck, with Chopped Celery

Orange Salad

Pumpkin Pie

Raisin and Cranberry Tarts

Chocolate Parfait

Almond Cakes

Nuts

Raisins

Bonbons

Candied Orange Peel

Black Coffee

Concerning Breakfasts

By Alice E. Whitaker

A certain Englishman who breakfasted with the Washington family in 1794

wrote of the occasion: "Mrs. Washington, herself, made tea and coffee

for us. On the table were two small plates of sliced tongue and dry

toast, bread and butter, but no broiled fish, as is the general custom."

However sparing the mistress of Mt. Vernon might have been, it was the

usual custom in old times to eat a hearty breakfast of meat or fish and

potato, hot biscuits, doughnuts, griddle cakes and sometimes even pie

was added. A section of hot mince pie was always considered a fitting

ending to the winter morning meal in New England, at least.

When Charles Dickens was in the United States, in 1842, he stopped at

the old Tremont house in Boston. In his "American Notes," which followed

his visit to this country, he wrote critically of the American

breakfast, as follows: "And breakfast would have been no breakfast

unless the principal dish were a deformed beefsteak with a great flat

bone in the center, swimming in hot butter and sprinkled with the very

blackest of pepper."

For a time my household included a colored cook, who, according to local

custom, went to her own home every night. Invariably before leaving she

came to me with the short and abrupt question, "What's for?" This

experience taught me the difficulty of planning breakfasts off hand.

More than one beginner in housekeeping wonders whether a light breakfast

of little but a roll and coffee is more healthful than one of several

courses. It is an old American idea that luncheon or supper may be

light, dinner varied and heavier, but breakfast must be wholesome and

nourishing. This is based on the belief that it is natural for man and

beast to wake up in the morning with a desire for food and unnatural to

try to do the hardest work of the day with but a pretence at eating.

About twenty years ago there was much talk of the alleged healthfulness

of going without breakfast entirely. For a time this plan was the object

of much discussion and experiment by medical and scientific men and

workers in general. The late Edward Everett Hale was a strong opponent

to abstinence from breakfast by brain workers, while those who labored

with hand and muscle looked with little favor on the morning fast.

Finally the no-breakfast idea went the way of most fads in food.

American Cookery November, 1921 · 第 4 / 8 段