CHAPTER VI_Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land

REYKJAVIK

“When the old world is sterile

And the ages are effete,

He will from wrecks and sediment

The fairer world complete.”

—_Emerson._

After searching three years, _Ingölfr_ found the storm-driven pillars

cast ashore in a steaming creek. He called the place _Reykjavik_, the

_Smoking Creek_.

Hardly was the anchor down in the midstream before a rosy cheeked and

genial gentleman came on board and introduced himself as Helgi Zoëga. He

was the man with whom I had corresponded relative to arranging our trip,

providing ponies, a guide and a pack train. To his quiet forethought and

courteousness in after days I had much for which to be thankful. We were

absolute strangers to land and people. He took us ashore in his boat

and conducted us to _Hotel Island_ where we found a comfortable, large

and well furnished room. Shortly our baggage appeared by the same quiet

agency. I then went to his office and spent some time in going over the

plan of the route to be followed, the ponies, their equipment and the

provisions to be taken.

I had been judiciously forwarned by the books of several English

travellers about the snares into which the uninitiated would fall in

dealing with an Icelandic guide so I was forearmed. I recall the quiet

smile that scarcely spread from Zoëga’s lips when I asked about the extra

straps, the extra shoes for the ponies and the price that was to be paid

at the end of the journey, the reliability of the guide and if the

agreement had not better be placed in writing to avoid misunderstanding

at time of settlement. He replied that all was in readiness according to

my wishes and his experience and assured me of a satisfactory ending of

the journey. Let me state that in my long experience with Mr. Zoëga and

many other Icelandic gentlemen, I was always squarely treated in small

as well as in larger matters. Never has an Icelander attempted to take

advantage of my ignorance. As far as my experience of four summers in

Iceland goes the English statements are libels on Icelandic integrity.

Could we do business in America with the same frankness and reliability

we would need less bookkeeping, there would be less locking of doors and

less work for the courts; we might close many of our jails and divert a

whole army of people from corrective and restraining work into productive

occupations.

The route decided upon, the arrangements completed to our satisfaction,

Mrs. Russell and I set out to view the city of _Reykjavik_ and receive

our first impressions of Iceland. We turned our steps in the direction

of the _Laug_, hot spring, which is about two miles from the city

square. The route is along the _Laugarvegur_, a street with many houses

of comfortable design and good construction. The hot springs are on a

small stream running out of the meadow into the bay. Along the route

we saw many women with bundles on their backs, boys with wheelbarrows

filled with clothes and others carrying large wicker baskets. It is the

“city laundry.” A long iron grill has been erected over the run-way from

the boiling springs to prevent accidents. The clothes are washed in the

running water and hung up to dry on numerous lines strung in the meadow.

Commodious sheds have been erected for protection during rain and for

ironing and repairing garments. Great piles of wool were scattered over

the hillside to dry after being washed in the springs. Throughout the

country the hot springs are made use of for woolwashing. The water seems

to have special properties for removing the animal grease.

When we had returned from our long trip across the country in 1910 we

sent a generous supply of soiled, torn and buttonless clothes to this

out-of-door laundry. What was our amazement to find on its return to

the hotel that the buttons had been replaced and all the rents neatly

repaired. What a contrast to an American laundry!

The flow of the boiling water is quite constant throughout the year

and the temperature is constant. My thermometer registered 95°C in the

runway. Considerable steam rises from the water and when the air is still

it is most difficult to obtain an unclouded photograph. The water is

impregnated with hydrogen sulfid and a little carbon dioxid. This is true

of most of the hot springs in the country.

On our return to the city we passed near the Leper Hospital, an excellent

modern structure located near the sea. None but physicians are allowed

admission to visit. While the Teutonic races are quite free from this

ancient disease, nevertheless it does exist in Norway, around the

shores of the Baltic, in Iceland, Scotland and in those portions of the

United States settled by Scandinavians. It seems to effect islands and

sea-coasts and because of this it is often stated that the disease in

Iceland has been perpetuated by eating tainted fish in times of famine.

Credit is due the physicians of Iceland in not only controlling the

plague but in actually obtaining a steady decrease. This disease goes

hand in hand with tuberculosis, that is, lepers are usually tubercular.

Until recently tuberculosis was prevalent in Iceland owing to the damp

and unventilated houses especially on the farms. Thanks to the energetic

crusade of the Icelandic doctors the conditions are rapidly improving

and both leprosy and tuberculosis are decreasing. The Surgeon-General,

Guðmundur Björnsson, told me with considerable pride that the percentage

of tuberculosis in Iceland was now less than in Europe or the United

States.

_Reykjavik_ is pleasantly situated on the north side of a headland

projecting into _Faxafjörðr_. There are two high hills in the city up

which the city is slowly creeping. The ancient portion of the city is

on the level ground along the waterfront. It is not the untidy and

ill-smelling place that many English writers would have us believe. On

the contrary it is clean, the streets are wide and well kept, running

water has been brought from a distance of eight miles to the capital.

The fish curing is confined to the shore as it is in all the coast

towns and it is not offensive. Indeed I might cite worse conditions in

the fishing centers of Old England and New England. Many a street in

Edinburgh, London, Boston and New York is in worse sanitary condition

than the meanest streets of _Reykjavik_. The stores are numerous and well

stocked with European and American wares. Two of the emporiums rise to

the dignity of apartment stores, where the necessities of life as well as

many of its luxuries may be obtained. The small shops are numerous where

specialties are carried such as shoestores, tobacconists, dairy products

and stationery shops. Telegraph and telephone connect the capital with

all the towns and many of the isolated farms. The submarine cable which

lands at _Seyðisfjörðr_ connects the island with the world beyond. A

modern gas plant supplies illumination for the city and a convenient fuel.

The population is a little less than 12,000 and has rapidly increased

during the past fifty-eight years under the influence of the new life

that has come to Iceland since in 1854 the people obtained commercial

liberty. In 1874 Iceland got its constitution which was amended in 1903

to the effect that the Governor must be an Icelander and reside in

_Reykjavik_. To all intents Iceland is an independent, self-governing

republic with a liberal constitution. The following is a brief outline of

the government.

It has a constitution. It is governed by the _Althing_, a legislative

body composed of a Senate with fourteen members and a House of

Representatives of twenty-six members. These forty members are chosen by

popular ballot and when they assemble they choose the fourteen senators

from their own number. Until 1911 six of the senators were appointed

by the King of Denmark under the direction of the Icelandic Governor.

This virtually gave the Governor the control of the Senate. This is now

abolished. This same constitutional amendment completely enfranchises the

women.

The Supreme Court is located in _Reykjavik_ and consists of two judges

and a Chief Justice. Their decision may be appealed to the Supreme Court

of Denmark. The King of Denmark has a veto over the acts of the Icelandic

Parliament but so far it has never been exercised. With this exception

and the lack of the power to make treaties, the country is virtually an

independent republic under a fair and liberal constitution. Some of the

progressives desire a step further and would entirely sever themselves

from Denmark. Owing to their defenseless condition and the inroads of the

French and English upon the fishing grounds it will be wise to keep the

protection of Denmark for some years.

There are several excellent buildings in the capital. The more modern

ones such as the _Thinghüs_, Government Building, the _Safnahüs_,

Library, are pleasing in architecture and solid in construction. The

_Thinghüs_ is situated on one side of the public square close to the

Cathedral. Its interior is well arranged for legislative purposes and the

decorations are simple, dignified and relieved with slight ornamentation.

It contains many good paintings by Danish masters. There is a young

school of Icelandic painting and some of the works are in this building.

If Baedeker were writing a guide to _Reykjavik_ he would double star

“The Lögberg,” a view towards _Hengil_. There are several portraits

of the Danish Kings and an excellent one of Jon Sigurðsson, the man

who holds the same place in the hearts of the Icelanders that George

Washington holds in ours and for the same reason. He is the Father of

modern Iceland but he won the constitution without bloodshed. There is a

painting by Otto Bache, “The Killing of Thoranin by Skarpðin.” Special

notice should be taken of “The Ride of the Valkyrie” by P. Arbo. It is a

wonderful conception and is full of action. Here also is a grand piece of

wood carving made entirely with a jackknife by an Icelandic farmer as a

memorial to Jon Sigurðsson. It is in the form of a frame to a pier glass

and a pier stand. It is equal in design and execution to that famous

carved pulpit in St. Gudule at Brussels, which was made by Verbruggen

in 1669. There is an excellent bronze of Jonas Hallgrimsson who died in

1845. On leaving the _Thinghüs_ the custodian gave us a friendly smile

and a cordial handshake. This treatment is refreshing after the customary

request for the shilling, the mark or the franc as is the common

experience elsewhere.

The Government House which contains the executive offices is older and

much more simple in design. There are two banks in the city and one of

them is housed in its own building, which was the finest in Iceland until

the completion of the _Safnahüs_.

This building houses over 80,000 bound volumes besides 6,000 manuscripts,

many of them priceless. For a city of less than 12,000 people this is

a good sized library. A thorough examination of the bookshelves and

the lists of the book charges yields abundant evidence of the inborn

aptness of this people for education. Mind culture reaches a high level.

It is pleasing to an American to note Webster’s Unabridged Dictionary

in a prominent position and a well used set of the works of the Sage

of Concord, Ralph Waldo Emerson. The library contains a well balanced

collection of history, literature, science, philosophy, poetry and

economics, not only in the native language but in all the spoken tongues

of Europe. For the benefit of those who do not read English there are

translations of our masterpieces of drama, poetry and romance. I was

pleased to note the evidence of much use of the American classics and

almost the entire absence of that great class of light reading which

lumbers our bookstalls, follows us on the train and burdens the card

catalogs of the American libraries.

The basement shelters the collections of natural history and that portion

devoted to Icelandic birds is practically complete. The botanical

collection is far from complete and awaits the labor of some enthusiastic

collector. I have seen in an isolated home far from the influence of the

University a collection made by a boy that surpasses this one in the

National Library. The collection of the minerals and lavas of the country

forms a good nucleus and that is all. It seems strange with all the

opportunities for work that some Icelandic geologist does not complete

the work so well begun by Thorvaldur Thoroddsen. This man has produced an

excellent geological map, as nearly complete as one man could possibly

make it, considering the difficulties of travel and the miscellaneous

character of the lavas. Most of the work on this topic has been done by

Danes and Germans.

[Illustration: _The Hay Market and the Harbor at Reykjavik._

_An Odd Corner in Reykjavik._]

On the upper floor of the _Safnahús_ there is a large and valuable

collection of Icelandic antiquities. No visitor to Iceland, who would get

a glimpse of the early times in the country, should miss this collection.

When he has seen it, it will then be necessary to go to Copenhagen to

view the remainder. Many of the finest things were taken there decades

since. As a salve to its conscience the Danish treasury pays annually

to Iceland the sum of $15,600 as “interest” on the borrowed treasures.

Among the items of value we enumerate the following,—A wooden crucifix

taken from a lava cave and supposed to be a Culdee relic from the days

antedating the settlement by the Norse; enamelled and jewelled crucifixes

from the thirteenth century; many weapons from the eleventh and twelfth

centuries such as halberds, bills, two handed swords, spears and daggers;

female wearing apparel from many centuries, brocaded, embroidered and

variously adorned with filigree work in silver and gold; snuff horns of

ivory and “horns” for mead and ale variously and richly carved; tapestry,

very old, that would bring a fabulous price in the great museums of

Europe; riding costumes, bridles, saddles and a great variety of wooden

boxes, bowls and foot boards ornately carved. Here also is preserved

the first Bible printed in Iceland bearing the date of 1584. It was

printed at _Hólar_ by Bishop Gudbrand Thorlaksson who translated it from

the German of Martin Luther and carved with his own hand most of the

blocks that illustrate it. This Bible was reprinted at _Hólar_ in 1644

and the edition was limited to 1000 copies. The writer counts himself

fortunate to possess a copy of this ancient book, which was presented

to him by an Icelandic friend. It is the work of Bishop Thorlak and is

translated directly from the Greek and Latin to correct some errors in

Thorlaksson’s translation from the German. It is the first Bible to have

the text divided into verses.

The religion of Iceland is Lutheran and is connected with the state.

There are three Bishops in the country, the head Bishop is at _Reykjavik_

and this man must go to Copenhagen to be ordained. The Bishop of

_Reykjavik_ goes to _Hólar_ or to _Skálholt_, dwelling-ridge, in the

seats of the secondary Bishops to ordain them respectively. At the age of

fourteen the children are confirmed and at that time must possess a good

knowledge of reading, writing, arithmetic, geography, natural history in

general, Icelandic history in detail and general history both ancient and

modern. The Cathedral at _Reykjavik_ is a very plain and uninteresting

building and would disappoint the stranger did he not know that the

Icelander is unpretentious in his religion. It is the internal and not

the external qualities that appeal to him. The building contains one of

Thorvaldsen’s masterpieces, a font which was presented to the nation by

this famous son of Iceland. In the square which is close to the Cathedral

and the _Thinghüs_ there is a large statue of Albert Thorvaldsen. It is

appropriately mounted on a stone pedestal and was the gift of the people

of Copenhagen at the national celebration of 1874.

Denmark claims Thorvaldsen as her son. The facts are as follows, and the

reader may choose for himself the country to which he really belongs.

His father was an Icelander, a wood carver, his mother was a Dane, the

daughter of a parson. Albert Thorvaldsen was born at sea midway between

Denmark and Iceland. Porcelain copies of his _Dawn_ and _Evening_, bas

reliefs, are set into many tombstones in _Reykjavik_. The dead white of

the porcelain is in fine contrast to the cold grey of the stone. This

method of ornamenting a tombstone is unique and is not without a fine

touch of sentiment.

The University includes the Medical College, the Theological Seminary,

the Law School besides the Liberal Arts. Medical graduates, before taking

up their labors in Iceland must spend at least six months in clinical

work in some approved hospital in Copenhagen. The reason is obvious.

There are fifty doctors in the employment of the government and scattered

throughout the country. They are all directly in charge of the Surgeon

General. There is little done in science at the University. Students who

wish to become proficient in any of its numerous branches must go to

the Universities of Europe. Within the city there are also a Commercial

School, a Nautical School and a Female High School besides the Grammar

School and the common schools.

There are about fifteen newspapers published in the city and several

magazines. Most of the papers are weeklies. Among these periodicals

we note a Theological Journal, an Agricultural Paper, a Good Templar

Journal, the “War Cry” and a Woman Suffragist Journal. No mention is here

made of the essays, romances, _Sagas_, translations and poetry published

in the city. In the bookbinding establishments the work is done by hand

and it is efficient. Honest work goes with every stitch.

There are two comfortable hotels in the city and several small boarding

houses. _Hotel Ísland_ is a temperance house and is kept by a group of

Good Templars. _Hotel Reykjavik_, which is more modern, supplies liquors.

In 1909 a law was passed which forbids the importation of any liquors

after 1912 and prohibits the sale of all alcoholic beverages after 1915.

This is the work of the Good Templars and the anti-prohibitionists

are trying to get it repealed before 1915. The service at the hotels

is excellent and one dines to the accompaniment of the minor music of

Iceland by an orchestra. The table surely does not lack variety and

abundance is the rule. The bill of fare is after the Danish mode. One may

choose from at least a dozen different dishes of meats and cured fish

at breakfast and supper. Smoked salmon, eaten without further cooking,

pickled fish with raw onion, anchovies, sardines, smoked herring, the

breast of goose smoked and pressed with spices, duck eggs in a variety

of modes, rye bread and coffee, the finest brew in the world, are among

the appetizers with which one breaks his fast at ten in the morning.

About two in the afternoon there is a real dinner. It is prefaced with a

sweet soup of a purple hue and surprisingly palatable, then comes fish

cooked to perfection, vegetables and a roast, usually mutton or veal,

and a delicious dessert. The coffee is taken in the reception room or in

the smoking parlor as one chooses. Oatmeal may be procured at the hotels

by asking before hand to have “porridge” cooked. In all my wanderings

through the country I never found it except at one farm. The supper at

seven is a repetition of the breakfast. Coffee and cakes may be had at

any time at a moment’s notice. Coffee is also brought to the room about

seven in the morning. This with rusks is taken in bed and one is supposed

to take the “coffee nap” afterwards.

_Reykjavik_ is the commercial metropolis and the larger industries center

here, although _Akureyri_ is the clearing house for the north coast.

These are the centers for exporting the fish, mutton, butter, wool,

skins, etc. Nearly all the handicrafts are represented in the capital.

There is a woolen mill where _vaðmal_, an Icelandic cloth, is woven, a

sawmill dresses the crude lumber brought from Norway. There are several

silversmiths who equal the artists of Europe in delicate engraving and in

filigree as well as enamelling. One man has discovered a process, which

he wisely keeps secret, for coloring the precious metals.

The foreign Consuls resident in _Reykjavik_ are only two, one from France

and the other from Norway. The following countries are represented

through Icelanders who are appointed by the foreign governments,

England, Germany, Sweden, Belgium and Holland. The United States has no

representation whatever.

The Thorvaldsen Bazar is an attractive place, verging upon a museum of

antiquities. It is coöperative and the proceeds go to a charity. It is

conducted by groups of ladies who give their time. Many women on the

farms knit stockings, mittens, gloves, make skin shoes, embroidery in

linen and send the items to the bazar to be sold on commission. There

are also exposed for sale stuffed birds, minerals, odd items such as

footboards, horn spoons, snuff horns, skyr bowls and a great variety of

other items that have long been hoarded by families in the interior.

Some of the carved pieces of wood are of great age and the carving is

artistically done. The foot board is of interest and as reference to

it will be made later in connection with the homes of the people I

will describe the one which now adorns my guest room wall. It is made

of Norway spruce, four feet long and seven inches wide. It is ornately

carved on both sides. On one side there are three circles five and one

half inches in diameter, one at each end and one in the middle. The

circles are cut to represent _Balder’s brá_, marguerite, which blooms

abundantly throughout the country near the coast. The central circle

shows only the ends of the numerous petals while the center of the

circle is used for engraving the name and the date, 1868. Between the

two circles at either side of the center a prayer is carved in the _Ogam

rune_. On the reverse side there is a series of six prows of the Viking

ship. The design of the prow of the ancient ship lends itself well to the

wood carver and it appears in a variety of forms on the ancient as well

as the modern pieces. There is an expert wood carver in _Reykjavik_ and

it is well worth while to visit Stefán Eiriksson in his workshop. I have

before me a _skyr áskr_, bowl for curds. In old times each person had

his own _áskr_ which he carved to suit his fancy. This one is completely

covered with fine carving. The handles represent dragons and to the back

of one with a wooden hinge is attached the cover. The center of the cover

is carved to represent _Balder’s brá_. It is a beautiful piece of work

and is carved out of a solid piece of the Iceland birch.

There are several good photographers in the city and one of them, M.

Ólafsson, has made excellent stereoscopic views of the natural wonders

of Iceland. He has travelled over most of the country to obtain the

negatives and he made his own stereoscopic camera as well as the

different cameras in his studio. There are several shops where good

photographs may be obtained. The city has an excellent public bath with

steam, shower, hot and cold water. There are two hospitals, Chemist’s

shops, (drug stores), barbers, in fact every thing required in civilized

life.

We know so little of Iceland. Its very name suggests all the cold and

inhospitable conditions of the north and the stranger unread in Icelandic

conditions has many a surprise in store. The worst thing I know about

Iceland is its name. It should have been christened _Fireland_.

[Illustration: _The Latin School at Reykjavik._

_The Thinghús, Parliament Building, Reykjavik._]

The climate of Iceland is exceedingly mild in winter and in the summer it

never gets very warm. The annual mean temperature of the extreme north is

about 2°C. lower than in the south. The climate changes very little with

the latitude but more with the glaciers, the coast and the solfataras.

The following table, compiled from the Meteorological Records at

_Berufjörðr_, will convey a good idea of the conditions in the country.

This table covers _twenty-five_ years for the Max. and Min. temperatures.

The station is in Long. 14° 15´ W., Lat. 64° 40´ N. and it is 55 feet

above the sea. The temperatures are given in degrees _Centigrade_.

Max.