Morad Khan Kella--The horrors of a camera--Seven high
dunes--Three tracks--Where the railway will be laid--A fine old
tamarisk turned into a Ziarat--Pagoda-like rest-houses--Science
_versus_ comfort--Kanak--Afghan women--The Kandahar road--How we
butcher foreign names--Quetta and Chaman--The horse fair and
Durbar at Sibi--Arrival in Calcutta--The first mishap--The death
of faithful Lawah--The end.
There was a ruined fort at Morad Khan Kella, and half a mile off a Beluch
village with two towers. Each house had a separating wall extending
outwardly. The Beluch is wretched if he is not secluded. The first thing
he ever wants to know is the exact extent of his property, then he is
quite happy and can live at peace with his neighbours. As folks live more
outside their houses than indoors, I suppose such a demarcation of
property is necessary. Moreover, people and beasts live in friendly
intercourse, and no doubt the beasts, which may be the cherished pets of
one man, may be just the reverse to his neighbours. The houses were
rectangular and plastered over with mud.
The people here were not quite so friendly as in other villages, and one
began to feel the effects of nearing civilisation. Somebody, too, had
been at this people with a camera before, for I hardly had time to take
mine out of its case before the whole population, which had collected
around, stampeded in all directions in the utmost confusion. Only a
little child--whom the mother dropped in the hurry-scurry--was left
behind, and he was a quaint little fellow clad in a long coloured gown
and a picturesque red hood.
We left Morad Khan Kella (5,430 feet) again on February 2nd, along the
vast plain which is to be crossed by the future railway from north to
south (190°). On nearing the Killi range we came again to some high sand
dunes rising in a gentle gradient to 250 feet, their lowest point being
to the north, the highest to the south. The plain itself on which we were
travelling (stretching from south-west to north-east) rose gradually to
5,650 feet on undulating ground with a number of sand hills, seven high
long dunes, and some minor ones.
We then came to a flat plain slanting northwards and with high sand
accumulations to the south near the hill range. A rivulet of salt water
losing itself in the sand was found next, and then we had to cross a pass
6,020 feet. One obtained a beautiful view of the Mustang Mountains to the
south-east with two plains, intersected by a high mountain range between
us and them. There were three tracks from this pass. One south-east,
called the Mustang track, the other (north-east) the Tiri Road, and one,
on which we were travelling, north-north-east (50°) to Kanak. The very
high Kuh-i-Maran peak could be seen in the distance to the south-east.
The railway will here follow the river which, coming from Mustang, flows
south-west to Panchepoy. Then the line will proceed through the gorge in
the mountains to the west. Some few miles from Kanak at the entrance of
this gorge were curious cuts in the sand, evidently caused by water.
Tamarisk was most luxuriant here.
[Illustration: Taleri (Kanak). The new type of Rest House between Nushki
and Quetta.]
A small graveyard and a semi-natural Ziarat, formed by a much contorted
centenarian tamarisk tree of abnormal proportions, were also to be seen
here. The branches had been twisted to form a low doorway leading to a
huge grave in the centre of the enclosing oval formed by the old tree and
some other smaller ones. Large round stones, as well as palm leaves,
brooms, and various implements had been deposited on the grave; while
suspended to the tree branches over the doorway hung brass camel-bells
and tassels from camel collars.
During that day we had come across a great many Mesjids, either single or
in sets of three, and several other Ziarats of no special importance. In
the valley of Kanak there were a number of Beluch towns and villages, two
at the foot of the Shalkot Mountain and one in each valley to the south
of the track.
We made our last halt at the pagoda-like Bungalow of Kanak, a comfortable
large, black wood verandah with a tiny dwelling in the centre,
whitewashed walls, and a corrugated iron roof. The man who built it was
apparently more of a mechanical engineer than an architect, and every
detail is carried out on some highly scientific principle which impressed
one much after the less elaborate but very practical abodes we had
inhabited further east.
Here there was a gate suspended on long iron rods besides the usual
hinges, each screw had a bolt at the end, and on proceeding inside, the
ceiling was supported on very neat but most insecure-looking wooden bars
no thicker than three inches. A most ingenious theory of angles kept up
the heavy roof--why it did, Heaven only knows! In contrast to the other
bungalows, where we had no glass at all, here we had glass everywhere.
One's bedroom door was two-thirds made of the most transparent panes of
glass that could be got, and so were the two doors of the bath-room--one
leading directly on to the outside verandah. The boards of the floor had
shrunk, and between the interstices one got a bird's-eye view of what
went on in the underlying room.
A great deal of space and expense has been devoted to outer show and
scientific detail, whereas the rooms were small, and unfortunate was the
man who tried to occupy the upper room when a fire had been lighted in
the chimney of the room below. The bungalow was, however, comfortably
furnished, and from its spacious verandah afforded a most magnificent
view all round.
The high Chiltan Mountains above Shalkot were on one side, and various
picturesque hill ranges stretched across the large plane dotted with a
Beluch village here and there.
In front of the entrance gate at the bungalow a nice pool of water
reflected in its more or less limpid waters the images of over-leaning
leafless trees.
[Illustration: The Horse Fair at Sibi, Beluchistan.]
Whatever remarks one may make about the construction of the bungalow it
must be confessed that it photographed well. (See illustration facing
page 438).
The altitude of Kanak was 5,730 feet.
We made an early start on this our last march, steering between the
handsome Takatu Mountain and the Chiltan, between which Quetta lies. We
met a number of Afghan women in long, loose black gowns from neck to
foot, and silver ornaments round the neck and arms. They had austere but
handsome features with expressive eyes.
About six miles from Quetta we struck the wide Kandahar Road at the foot
of the Takatu Mountain. From this point we got the first glimpse of
Shalkot or Quetta. "Quetta" is the English corruption, abbreviation, or
adaptation, if you please, of the word "Shalkot!" One almost wished one
could have trembled when one stopped for a moment to read the first
notice in English on approaching the town, warning new-comers of the
dreadful things that would happen to any one entering the town carrying a
camera or found sketching or taking notes!
It came on to snow as we approached the place, and shortly after sunset
my caravan entered the neat, beautifully-kept roads of Quetta, and
behold, joy!--I heard for the first time since August last the whistle of
a railway engine. This was on February 3rd, 1902.
I met with unbounded civility and hospitality from everybody in Quetta as
well as at Chaman, our most north-westerly point on the Afghan boundary.
For those who believe in the unpreparedness of England, it may be stated
that, from this point, we could with ease lay a railroad to Kandahar in
less than three weeks.
A most charming invitation from the Honourable the Agent to the
Governor-General and Chief Commissioner in Beluchistan, Col. C. E. Yate,
C.S.I., C.M.G., etc., took me almost directly to Sibi, where the annual
horse show and Beluch Durbar were to take place. A great many
locally-bred animals were exhibited, some very good indeed. Camel, horse,
and cow races enlivened the show, and a very weird representation of a
Beluch raid was performed with much _entrain_. At the Durbar, the leading
Chiefs were presented by Col. Yate with handsome gold and silver
embroidered coats, waistcoats, scarves and turbans, and the scene was
very impressive.
One could not help again being struck by the dignified, manly behaviour
of the Beluch on one side, and their frank respect for the British
officers,--a respect indeed well-deserved, for a finer set of men in
every way than our Political Service Officers can be found nowhere. It
is a pity we have not similar men _all_ over India.
From Sibi I travelled by rail across country to Calcutta, where I arrived
at the beginning of March, having completed my journey overland--if the
short crossing from Baku to Enzeli be excepted--from Flushing (Holland).
[Illustration: Beluch Boys off to the Races--Horse Fair at Sibi.]
It never does to boast. I was feeling somewhat proud to have travelled
such a long distance with no serious mishaps or accidents, when, much to
my sorrow, Sadek, my Persian servant, returned one evening to the hotel
dreadfully smashed up. He had been attacked in the bazaar by three
Englishmen of Calcutta, two of whom had held him down on the ground while
the third kicked him badly in the head, body and legs. It appears that
these three ruffians had a grievance against Persians in general, hence
their heroic deed against a man who had done them no harm.
It was indeed too bad to have to register that, in a journey of over
10,000 miles, the only people who had shown any barbarity were--in a sort
of way--my own countrymen!
Much as I love Beluchistan, I like India less and less each time I go
there. Maybe it is because I always have misfortunes while in the
country. Indeed, I received a last and severe blow while proceeding by
train from Calcutta to Bombay to catch a homeward steamer. My faithful
cat Lawah died, suffocated by the intense moist heat in the carriage. The
other two cats I just managed to keep alive by constant rubbing with
ice.
From Bombay I despatched Sadek back to Teheran _via_ the Gulf and
Bushire, and the two surviving cats and I sailed by P. & O. for England,
where we all three arrived happy, safe, and sound.
APPENDIX
Tables Showing the Distance From Quetta To Meshed via Robat,
Sher-i-Nasrya (Sistan), Birjand.
_Distances from Quetta to Persian frontier._
_Name of Stage._ _Distance._
_Miles._ _Yards._
Quetta to Girdi Talab 16 --
Girdi to Kanak (Taleri) 16 --
Kanak to Morad Khan Kella 24 --
Morad Khan Kella to Kishingi 24 --
Kishingi to Nushki 12 --
Nushki to Mall 31 1,320
Mall to Kuchaki Chah 15 1,154
Kuchaki Chah to Padag 13 756
Padag to Yadgar 22 1,390
Yadgar to Karodak 15 970
Karodak to Dalbandin 16 380
Dalbandin to Chakal 18 190
Chakal to Sotag 14 220
Sotag to Mirui 12 1,320
Mirui to Chah Sandan 20 220
Chah Sandan to Tretoh 23 760
Tretoh to Noh Kundi 21 1,660
Noh Kundi to Mashki Chah 21 1,100
Mashki Chah to Sahib Chah 28 660
Sahib Chah to Mukak 23 660
Mukak to Saindak 13 880
Saindak to Kirtaka 18 750
Kirtaka to Chah Mahommed 16 1,107
Chah Mahommed Raza to Raza Kuh-i-Malek-Siah 24 368
Distances from Robat (Beluchistan) to Sher-i-Nasrya (Sistan).
Robat to Hormak 18 miles.
Hormak to Girdi-Chah 32 "
Girdi-Chah to Mahommed Raza Chah 28 "
Mahommed Raza Chah to Lutak 12 "
Lutak to Baghak 16 "
Baghak to Sher-i-Nasrya (Sistan) 8 "
Sher-i-Nasrya to Birjand, about 12 stages 210 miles.
Birjand to Meshed, _via_ Turbat-i-Haidari 277 "
Botanical Specimens Collected by Author in North Beluchistan. (Presented
to the British Museum of Natural History.)
_Native Name._
_Agat_ Lornia spinosa. Sch. Bip.
_Buju_ Stipa (grass).
_Eshwerk_ Rhazya stricta Dec.
_Jirri × Jerr_ Artemisia Herba-Alva Asso.
_Karkar_ Fagonia Aucheri Boiss.
_Kesankur_ Peganum Harmala L.
_Kanderi_ (?) Salsola.
_Kirri_ Tamarix articulata vahl.
_Kul_ }
_Drug_ } Phragmites communis Trin. (A reed.)
_Kulich' nell_ Cressa cretica L.
{ Anabasis sp.
_Lara_ { Tamarix sp.
_Pish_ Nannorhops Ritchieana Wendl. (Palm.)
_Sachdonne_ Astragalus sp.
---- Moricandia sp.
---- Alyssum.
---- Cichorium (?).
---- Nerium Oleander L.
---- Convolvulus sp.
---- Salicornia fruticosa L.
---- Suæda monoica Forsk.
[Illustration: Sketch Map of A. Henry Savage Landor's Journey from Kerman
(Persia) to Quetta (Beluchistan) giving detailed survey of Sistan-Nushki
Route by Author.]
INDEX
i. == Vol. I.
ii. == Vol. II.
Abal Kassem Khan, i. 40
Abbas Ali, Camel man, ii. 117
Abbas Ali Khan, British Agent in Birjand, ii. 104
Abdulabad, i. 79
Abid, ii. 19
Accumulations of wealth, i. 120
Across the Salt Desert, ii. 1-89
Afghan-Beluch Boundary, the, ii. 377
Afghan
Desert, ii. 309
Invasion, i. 88
Soldiers, ii. 101
Women, ii. 440
Afghanistan, ii. 316
Afghans, ii. 283, 322
African black, an, i. 80
Agdah, i. 371
Agha
Baba, i. 51, 73
Mahommed, i. 88
Agha Mahommed's invasion of Persia, i. 449, 450
Ahwaz, i. 340
Ahwaz-Isfahan track, i. 340
Alabaster throne, i. 225
Ala-el-Mulk, Governor of Kerman, i. 317, 433
Alamut Mt., i. 69
Alexandrovo, i. 3
Aliabad, i. 250
Ali Murat, ii. 24
Alliance Française, i. 171
Alliance Israelite, i. 172
Ambition, i. 126
American interests, i. 95
Amir of
Birjand, ii. 94
Sistan, ii. 157
audience of the, ii. 185
Anar, i. 419
Ardakan Mts., i. 372
Ardeshir Meheban Irani, i. 405
Armenian
Archbishop, i. 282
men, i. 283
women, i. 283
Armenians, i. 282
emigration of, i. 284
Artillery, ii. 92
Assiabo Gordoneh, i. 374
Astara, i. 27
Astrabad, i. 29, 185
Azerbaijan, i. 185
Azizawad, i. 249
Backhtiaris, i. 341
Badjirs, (Ventilating Shafts), i. 380, 408
Baghih, i. 428
Baku, i. 5, 21
native city, i. 23
Bambis, i. 365
Bandan, ii. 136
Bandan Mts., ii. 136
Bandar Abbas, i. 332
trade of, i. 334
Band-i-Sistan, ii. 227
Banking in Persia, i. 139
Bank-notes, i. 129, 147
Banks, i. 135
Banque
d'Escompte et de Prêts, i. 134
Poliakoff, i. 134
Barbers, i. 309; ii. 71
Baths, i. 376
Bazaar, i. 35, 245, 267, 296-312; ii. 27
Beetroot Sugar Company, the, i. 118
Beggars, ii. 30
Behai sect, the, i. 391
Belgian Customs Officers, i. 155, 337
Bellew, ii. 321
Bellows, i. 255
Beluch, ii. 102, 120
Beluch-Afghan Boundary, ii. 308
Beluch
bread, ii. 325
chiefs, ii. 420-422
dancing, ii. 305
diet, ii. 417
dress, ii. 418
Durbar, ii. 441
dwellings, ii. 415
fakir, ii. 433
fort, ii. 413
graves, ii. 313, 410, 422
graves, section of, ii. 402
graveyard, ii. 400, 438
greeting, ii. 276
hospitality, ii. 434
huts, ii. 434
implements, ii. 417
love and war songs, ii. 301
marriages, ii. 403
maternal love, ii. 311
Mesjids (or Mazit), ii. 363
music, ii. 296
ornaments, ii. 419
prisoners, ii. 324
religion, ii. 364, 423
rugs, i. 318
salutations, ii. 356
tents, ii. 310
types, ii. 350
weaving looms, ii. 416
Beluchistan, i. 98
Persian, i. 191
subdivisions of, ii. 381
Benn, Major, R. E., British Consul, Sistan, ii. 145, 163, 168, 169, 172
Benn, Bazaar, ii. 150
Biddeh, i. 375
Biddeshk, i. 277
Birjand, ii. 90
citadel, ii. 92
city, ii. 91
commercially, ii. 93
exports, ii. 99
imports, ii. 98
industries of, ii. 97
routes from, ii. 93
ruined fortress at, ii. 90
Biwarzin Yarak range, i. 69
Blackmail, i. 93
Bohemian glass, i. 307
Bokhara, Amir of, i. 25
Bombay Amelioration Society of the Parsees, i. 404
Brahui, ii. 365, 382
Bread, i. 310
making, ii. 259
of camel men, ii. 24
British
Bazaar, ii. 151
flag, difficulties of hoisting the, ii. 172
goods, i. 36, 153, 166, 178; ii. 147
India Navigation Company, the, i. 334
Legation, i. 96, 98
staff, i. 98
protection, ii. 95, 153
trade, i. 155, 161
traders, ii. 152
Britishers, i. 143
in Persia, i. 84
Bunjar, ii. 194
Buried city, seemingly, ii. 270
Bushire Company, i. 147
Business principles, i. 120
Cairns, ii. 50, 353
Camel
men, ii. 2, 56
devoutness of, ii. 82
riding, ii. 8
Camels, ii. 70, 331, 336
Canals, ii. 255, 320
Capital, i. 120, 140
Customs soldiers, ii. 278
Caravan from Kerman to Quetta, ii. 159
Caravan men, i. 334, 341
Caravans, i. 71
Caravanserais, i. 269, 310, 375; ii. 48, 91
Carriage fares (Resht Teheran), i. 54
Carpet factories, i. 313
Carpets, i. 153, 314
Birjand, ii. 97
Kerman, i. 316, 437
Herat, i. 318
Sultanabad, i. 317
Tabriz, i. 318
Turcoman, i. 318
Yezd, i. 318
Caspian Sea,
navigation of, i. 50
steamers, i. 21
Catacombs, i. 14
Cats,
intelligence of, ii. 40
Cave dwellers of Nushki, ii. 418
Chagai, ii. 379
Chah-herizek, i. 246
Chah-i-Mardan, ii. 320
Chah Sandan, ii. 356
Chakal, ii. 362
Chaman, ii. 441
Chaman Singh, ii. 150
Chanoh, i. 370
Chap, a Beluch dance, the, ii. 306
Chappar or post-horses, i. 259
Charity, i. 89
Chel-Payeh, ii. 51
Chiltan Mt., ii. 434, 440
Chinese Turkestan, i. 129
Chinese War, the, i. 107
Christianisation, i. 391
Church Missionary Society, i. 390
Churches, i. 17
Churchill, Mr., acting H.B.M. Consul, Resht, i. 61
Civilising agents, i. 167
Clemenson and Marsh, Messrs., ii. 132
Clouds, ii. 112
above the desert, ii. 80
Coachmen, i. 57, 63
Cocoon trade, i. 60
Coin, old and new, i. 133
Coins, i. 237
Cold, ii. 77, 81, 410
Colleges and schools, i. 294
Communication, i. 139
ways of, ii. 160
Compagnie d'Assurance et de Transport en Perse, i. 48
Company promoters, i. 122
Compensating laws of nature, ii. 48
Competition in
Birjand, ii. 97
trade, i. 37
Confidence in foreigners, i. 123
Conical temporary graves, ii. 229
Consular postal service, ii. 110
Consulate
guard, ii. 178
hospital, ii. 179
mosque, ii. 177
Consulates, i. 162
British, i. 39
Consuls, ii. 108
Copper, i. 276
coin, i. 130, 133
work, i. 267, 305
Cossacks, i. 6, 18, 349; ii. 108, 139
Crater, ii. 134
Credit, ii. 101
Criminals, i. 89
Currency, i. 127
Customs caravanserai, Sistan, ii. 150
officials, ii. 166
Dadi, ii. 235
Dalbandin, ii. 367, 397
routes from, ii. 397
Damovend Mt., i. 243, 255
Dancing, i. 198
Darband, ii. 47
Mt., ii. 42, 44
Daria-i-Nimak (Salt Lake), i. 250
Dearth of coins, i. 130
Deawat, i. 374
Deformities, i. 208, 245
Deh-i-Husena, ii. 251
Dentistry, i. 210
Deschambe bazaar, i. 60
Difficulties of traders, ii. 101
Diseases, ii. 115
Distances from Teheran to Isfahan, i. 280
Drog, ii. 409
Dry river beds, ii. 21, 44, 78, 125
Dunes, i. 355, 373; ii. 255, 281
Duties, i. 156
Ears of Persians, i. 208
Education, i. 143, 386
of Persians, i. 169
Electricity of the Desert, ii. 55, 70, 134
Elongating effects of the desert, ii. 66
England and Russia, i. 162
English
education, i. 174
goods, i. 96
Englishman as a linguist, the, i. 177
Enzeli, i. 26, 29
bay, i. 30
Eshwark, ii. 361
Eshwerk, ii. 409
Eternal fires, i. 22
Euphrates Valley Railway, i. 163
European commercial houses, i. 152
Europeans, i. 90
European women, i. 298, 391
Exchange, i. 138
Family graves, ii. 400
Famine, i. 75
Fanatic, ii. 289
Farah Rud, ii. 209
Farmitan, ruins of, i. 447
Farming system, i. 155
Fars Trading Company, i. 147
Farsakh, the, i. 409
Fatabad, i. 456
Fedeshk, the village of, ii. 82
Fever, ii. 32, 48, 53, 85, 115, 117, 135, 183
Fever-stricken, ii. 95
people, ii. 83
Fezahbad, i. 360
Fight between Afghans and Sistanis, ii. 162
Fin Palace, i. 265
Fire
temples, i. 399, 452
destruction of, i. 396
worshippers, i. 401
Food for camels, ii. 40
Foreign
education, i. 172
exchange, i. 140
speculations, i. 121
Foreigners in Persian employ, i. 155
Fort, ii. 28
Fortress, ii. 135
in ruins, ii. 113
Fossils, ii. 43
Foxes, ii. 71
Fraud, i. 113, 116
Friction, ii. 95
Friday, the day of rest, i. 311
Fruit trees, i. 76
Fuel, i. 377
Garland, James Loraine, i. 286, 288
Gas Company, the, i. 116
Gat Mt., ii. 355, 358
Geographical frauds, i. 332
Geological fault, ii. 411
Georgians, i. 20
German
commercial training, i. 177
goods, i. 19, 96, 180
Minister, i. 95
Germany, i. 95, 161, 163
Ghiez, i. 279
Ghilan, i. 184
province, i. 36, 59, 77
Ghilan's trade, i. 36
Ghul Khan, ii. 235
Gigantic rock inscription, i. 453
Girdi, ii. 275, 277
Glass, i. 255
Godar-i-Chah,
ruins of, ii. 320
water of, ii. 321
Godar-Khorassunih Pass, ii. 12
God-i-Zirreh, ii. 322
salt deposits (Afghanistan), ii. 316
Golahek, i. 99
Golam Jelami, Dr., ii. 179
Golandeh, ii. 115
Gold, i. 127
coins, i. 132
Goldsmid, Sir F., ii. 321
Goldsmiths, i. 122
Government
guarantee, i. 341
of India, i. 161
Grapes, i. 35
Graveyards, ii. 109
Grube, Mr., i. 144
Gullahbad, i. 354
Gurghena tribe, ii. 434
Gyabrabat, i. 269
Gypsum, ii. 332, 333
Hallucination, i. 65
Halmund water, ii. 150
Hamadan, i. 188
Hammam (baths), i. 386, 440
Hamun-i-Halmund, ii. 138, 280
Hand of prophet Nazareth Abbas, the, i. 264
Haoz Panch Caravanserai, ii. 24
Hardinge, Sir Arthur, i. 96, 221
Head Mullah, death of, i. 115
Heat, ii. 38, 39, 51
Hindoo Caravanserai, Kerman, i. 442
Hindoo merchants, i. 426
Hoarding, i. 139
Hodjatabad, i. 377
Holy city, i. 253
Horjins (saddle-bags), i. 303
Hormak, ii. 283, 285
Horse fair, i. 18
Hotels, i. 38, 40, 80, 81, 112
Hotz and Son, i. 135, 152, 154
House of Commons, i. 161
Houses, i. 93, 365; ii. 86, 145, 256
Husena Baba, ii. 253
Husseinabad, ii. 148
Ice store-houses, i. 266, 433
Illuminations, i. 216
Imperial Bank of Persia, i. 43, 90, 127, 135
Importation of arms, i. 320
Imprints, ii. 21
Incorrect maps, i. 331; ii. 23, 140, 142
India, the invasion of, i. 159
Indian
pilgrims, ii. 110
tea traders, ii. 153
teas, ii. 156
Indo-European Telegraphs, i. 73, 90, 254, 263, 284
Infanticide, i. 208
Infantry soldiers, i. 115
Inscriptions and ornamentations on Chappar-Khana walls, i. 415
Intermarriage, ii. 65
Investments, i. 124
Iron, i. 276
Isfahan, i. 74, 285
avenue, the, i. 321
bridge, the, i. 285
commercially, i. 330
historical paintings, i. 324
Jewish quarters, i. 286
Madrassah, the, i. 285, 321
palace, the, i. 285, 323
square of, the, i. 296
Iskil, ii. 195
Isphandiar Khan, i. 343
Itinerary of Journey,
London to Baku, i. 1-20
Baku to Enzeli, i. 26-28
Enzeli to Resht, i. 29-43
Resht to Teheran, i. 57-80
Teheran to Isfahan, i. 241-280
Isfahan to Yezd, i. 351-380
Yezd to Kerman, i. 408-430
Kerman to Birjand, ii. 1-89
Birjand to Sher-i-Nasrya (Sistan) ii. 112-141
Sher-i-Nasrya to Zaidan, ii. 194-232
Zaidan to Kuh-i-Kwajah, ii. 233-250
Kuh-i-Kwajah to Robat, ii. 251-292
Robat to Saindak _viâ_ God-i-Zirreh (Afghanistan), ii. 307-323
Saindak to Quetta, ii. 324-441
Quetta to Calcutta, ii. 441-442
Calcutta to London, ii. 442-443
Jaffarabad, i. 377
Jamsetsji N. Tata, Mr., i. 407
Janja Mt., i. 69
"Jazia" tax, the, i. 403
Jewellers, i. 319
Jews, i. 116, 286, 290, 384
of Isfahan, features of the, i. 292
Jubareh, i. 286
Julfa, i. 282
Europeans at, i. 284
Graveyard, i. 284
Kajar dynasty, i. 88
Kajars, i. 221
Kala Ardeshir (fort), i. 445
Kala-i-Dukhtar or Virgin Fort, i. 443
Kalantar of Sistan, the, ii. 195, 197
Kalaoteh, ii. 10
Kanak, ii. 438
Kanats, i. 75, 353, 355, 371, 379; ii. 28
Kandahar road, ii. 440
Karenghi rirri, ii. 363
Karodak, ii. 408
Karun River, navigation of, i. 340
Kashan, i. 262, 263
Kasvin, i. 48, 51, 73
Manufacturer of, i. 77
rest house, i. 73
Kavkas and Mercury Steam Navigation Company, i. 26
Kawam-ed-douleh, i. 113
Kayani, the, ii. 139
Kehriz Natenz peak, i. 277
_Kerbas_ cloth, i. 77
Kerjawa (litters), i. 247
Kerman, i. 431
British Consulate, i. 432
Cloths and felts, i. 437
Europeans at, i. 432
Garrison of, i. 435
Madrassah, the, i. 439
to Neh, route _viâ_ Khabis, ii. 1
Keshk (cheese), ii. 119
Kevir, the, i. 370
Khafe-Khanas, i. 65
Khale Mandelha, i. 250
Khan of Kelat, ii. 380, 383-394
Kharkoff, i. 18
Kharzan Pass, i. 50
Khorassan, i. 134, 185
Khupah, i. 357
Khuzistan, i. 190
Kiafteh, i. 372
Kiev, i. 12
Kievo-Petcherskaya monastery, i. 14
Killi range, ii. 437
Kirtaka, ii. 312
routes from, ii. 312
Kishingi, ii. 433
Kohrut, i. 271
Dam, i. 270
Kort, i. 72
Kotor, ii. 432
Kran, i. 134, 139
Kuchaki Chah, ii. 410
Kudum, i, 51, 63
Kuh-Benan Mts., ii. 31
Kuh Djupahr, i. 429
peaks, i. 428
Kuh-i-buhlan Pass, i. 272
Kuh-i-Daftan (Volcano), ii. 327
Kuh-i-Kwajah, ii. 235-250
characteristic skulls, ii. 245
Dead houses, ii. 241
Gandun Piran Ziarat, ii. 242
Graves in compartments, ii. 240
Kala-i-Kakaha, city of roars of laughter, ii. 238, 247
legends regarding, ii. 248
Kuk fort, ii. 247
Priests' house, ii. 244
tomb of thirty-eight sections, ii. 242
Kuh-i-Malek-Siah, ii. 282
Kuh-i-Maran, ii. 438
Kum, i. 89, 242, 252
Kundi, ii. 351
Kupayeh Mountains, ii. 7
Kurdistan, i. 189
rugs, i. 317
Kurus peak, ii. 10
Kushkuhyeh, i. 423
Lahr Kuh, ii. 293
Lalun mines, i. 117, 119
Langherut, i. 256
Languages, i. 175
Lascelles, Sir Frank, i. 151
Laskerisha, ii. 309
Lawah, ii. 27
cat, ii. 442
Lawah, tracks from, ii. 27
Lawah's trade, ii. 28
Lead, ii. 327
Leather tanneries, i. 254
Legation guards, i. 100
Legations, i. 95
Leker Kuh range, ii. 21
Lenkoran, i. 27
Levantines, i. 61
Lingah, i. 337
Loaf-sugar, i. 37
Loan, six per cent., i. 152
London
Society for promoting Christianity amongst the Jews of Isfahan, i. 286
Stock Exchange, i. 137
Luft-Ali-Khan, i. 450
Luristan, i. 190
Lynch Brothers, i. 342
Maclean incident, the, i. 156
MacMahon, Major A. H., ii. 321, 351, 378, 412
McGregor, Sir Charles, ii. 321, 351
Mahala-Giabr, i. 449
Mahommed
Ali Brothers, ii. 151
Azim Khan Brothers, ii. 152
Azin, a descendant of the Kayani, ii. 239, 252
Mahommed
Hayab, ii. 152
Raza Chah, ii. 262, 310
Mahommerah, i. 339
trade of, i. 344
Maiden's Tower, Baku, i. 23
Maladministration, i. 131
Malayer and Borujird districts, i. 189
Malcolm, Rev. Napier, i. 389
Malek-Siah, Ziarat, (where three countries meet), ii. 287
Mall, ii. 410
Marble, ii. 345
Market worth cultivating, ii. 157
Massacre of Jews, i. 291
Matsuma Fatima, i. 253
Mazanderan, i. 185
Meftah-el-Mulk, i. 103
Meftah-es-Sultaneh, i. 102
Meh-rab Shrine, i. 264
Meiboh, i. 375
Menzil, i. 68, 69
bridge, i. 51
Meshed horses for remounts, ii. 148
Meshed-i-Sher, i. 29
Meshed,
pilgrimage to the sacred shrine of, ii. 95
track to, ii. 73
Mesjids, ii. 403, 433, 438
Miletor, Mr., Belgian Customs Officer, Sistan, ii. 166
Military
Drill, i. 112
officers, ii. 92, 103
Political Service, ii. 168
Miller, Mr., Russian Vice-Consul for Sistan, ii. 149
Minerals, i. 188
Mint, the, i. 128
Mirage, i. 260, 355, 373; ii. 356
Mirjawa, track to, ii. 312
Mirui, ii. 359
Mirza Hassan Ashtiani, i. 150
Mirza-Taki-Khan, Assassination of, i. 265
Missionaries, i. 85, 281
Missionary work, i. 389
Misstatements, ii. 166
Model farm, i. 118
Moisture, i. 59
Mol-Ali, i. 70
Money, i. 124
Morad-Khan Kella, ii. 435, 436
Mosques, i. 93, 253, 264, 266, 267, 285, 296
Motor cars, i. 239
Mount Sofia, i. 284
Moving pictures, i. 233
Mudir School, i. 387
Mudonek Ateng Mt., ii. 433
Muht, ii. 113
Mukak, ii. 328
Mullahs, i. 44, 89, 92, 124, 150, 170, 253, 285
Murchikhar, i. 278
Murd-ap, i. 31, 50
Mushir-ed-Doulet, Minister of Foreign Affairs, i. 104, 106
Mushki-Chah, ii. 345
Mushroom-shaped Mount, ii. 286
Music, i. 435
Mustang track, ii. 437
Muzaffer-ed-din Shah, i. 138
Naiband
Mt., ii. 56, 58, 78
village of, the, ii. 57
villagers, clothes of, ii. 68
Nao Gombes, i. 369
Naphtha, i. 190
Napier, ii. 321
Nasirabad, ii. 139
Nassirabad, i. 261
Native Merchants in Birjand, ii. 98
Natives, troublesome, ii. 61
Naus, Mr., i. 155
Nawar-Chah, ii. 279
New Consulate buildings, ii. 174
Nharui, ii. 382
Nickel coins, i. 131
Nihilists, i. 18
Northern Persia, i. 53, 145, 161
Nose of Persians, i. 210
Nushki, ii. 395, 414-432
Bazaar, ii. 428
Beluch durbar at, ii. 420
Beluch tribes near, ii. 414
Caravanserais, ii. 427
health of, ii. 427
hospital, ii. 427
projected Railway, ii. 429
Tashil, ii. 425
Tashildar, ii. 425
trade of, ii. 428
Traders in, ii. 396
route, ii. 96, 153, 367
Advice to traders, ii. 371
concession to traders by the, ii. 370
evolutions of the, ii. 376
first to travel from London to Quetta by the, ii. 371
forwarding agents by the, ii. 370
game on the, ii. 397
pilgrims by the, ii. 372
post offices on the, ii. 369
railway rebate on freight for goods by the, ii. 370
Rest houses on the, ii. 368
trade of the, ii. 147
traffic on the, ii. 368
travellers by the, ii. 371
water supply on the, ii. 369
Oasis, ii. 56
Observation, i. 174
Officials, i. 113; ii. 86
Oil wells, i. 20, 22
Opium, i. 435
smoking, ii. 29, 83
effects of, ii. 84
Orphans, college for, i. 104
Padag, ii. 409
Paichinar, i. 70
Paintings, i. 229, 236
Palawan (strong man), the, ii. 329
Palm-trees, ii. 28, 136
Parsee,
British Subjects in Yezd, i. 405
ceremonies, i. 400
generosity, i. 407
national assembly, i. 405
priests, i. 400
school, i. 388
traders, i. 404
Parsees
of India, i. 173
of Kerman, i. 443
fire of the, i. 402
or Guebre (Zoroastrians) of Yezd, i. 394-407
Zoroastrians, i. 383, 449
Pasand Khan, ii. 397
Passangun, i. 257
Passports, i. 31
Patang Kuh, ii. 254
Pearls, i. 237
Persecution, i. 292-295
Persian
Army, the, i. 111
cats, ii. 6
Cossack regiment, i. 115, 222
crowds, ii. 110
Customs duty, ii. 167
dancing, ii. 304
dinner, i. 456, 458
expedition against Beluch, i. 435
Gulf, i. 164
Trading Company, i. 135
Imperial Government, obligations of the, i. 138
justice, ii. 189
markets, i. 138, 167
music, ii. 302
musical instruments, ii. 303
officials, i. 102
Question, the, i. 98
soldiers, i. 434
tea market, ii. 154
telegraphs, i. 352, 363, 371
the, as a soldier, i. 111
wedding, i. 193
women's
dress, i. 211
jewels, i. 213
out-of-door dress, i. 213
Persia's condition, i. 109
Perso-Beluch frontier, ii. 343
Petroleum express, i. 5
Phillot, Major, H.B.M.'s Consul, Kerman, i. 432; ii. 169
Phonograph, ii. 178
Pigeon towers, i. 352
Pilgrimage for sterile women, i. 455
Pilgrims, i. 15; ii. 73
Pilgrims, Indian, ii. 95
Pipes, i. 308
Piri
Bazaar, i. 32
Road, ii. 437
Pish, ii. 358
Pits, ii. 118
Plague, fears of the, ii. 374
Plucky Englishwoman, ii. 173
Policy of drift, i. 164, 340
Political service, ii. 108
Polygamy, i. 192
Portraits of sovereigns, i. 235
Post
horses, i. 267, 270, 409, 418
offices, ii. 293
stations, i. 63
Practical Mission work, i. 289
Praga, i. 7
Preece, Mr., British Consul-General, Isfahan, i. 279, 286, 348
Preparing bodies for interment, ii. 401
Prime Minister, i. 223
Princes, i. 67
Prisoners, ii. 426
Protection against heat, ii. 38
Protest, a, i. 150
Punctuality, i. 125, 242
Pusht-i-Kuh, i. 190
Queen Victoria's portrait, i. 232, 235
Quetta, ii. 440
Quivering Minarets, the, i. 328
Rabino, Mr., i. 130, 136, 144
Rafsenju, routes from, i. 425
Rahdari tax, ii. 167
Railway, i. 91
to Kandahar, ii. 441
travelling, i. 20, 55
Railways needed, ii. 148, 169
Rain, ii. 112, 286
Redress, i. 277; ii. 153
Regheth, ii. 330, 334, 358
Registan, ii. 395
Reliability of Sistanis, ii. 161
Religious education, i. 172
Removals, i. 100
Resht, i. 35, 44
Governor-General of, i. 62
Respect of natives, ii. 145, 178
Rest houses, i. 64
in North Beluchistan, ii. 294
Rice, i. 61, 77
Road Concession, the, i. 242
Robat (Beluchistan)
frontier post, ii. 291
Garrison needed at, ii. 170
Robbers, i. 270, 273, 277, 361, 410; ii. 73, 122, 135, 352
Rock
habitations, ii. 15, 57
sculpture at Shah Abdul Hazim, i. 244
Rostoff, i. 18
Routes, ii. 73
across the Salt Desert, ii. 46
Royal college, Teheran, i. 170
Rudbar, i. 68
Ruins, i. 351, 382; ii. 28
Russia, i. 163
Russian
Bank, i. 42, 137, 188
competition, i. 48
Custom House, i. 2
goods, i. 53; ii. 147
Government, i. 129
grant, i. 346
influence, i. 343
line of steamers, i. 337
loan, i. 127
market, i. 167
protective tariff, ii. 156
railway travelling, i. 7
road, the, i. 47, 50
capital employed in construction of, i. 52
tolls, i. 54
roads in Persia, i. 162
tariff, i. 161
tea market, ii. 155
the, i. 143
Vice-Consul, ii. 172
Vice-Consulate, ii. 149
Russia's
aim in the Persian Gulf, i. 332
commercial success, i. 182
trade, i. 145, 155
Rustamabad, i. 64
Rustam's house, ii. 264
Sadek, i. 241, 243; ii. 442
Sahib Chah, ii. 334, 337
Sahlabad, ii. 120
Saïd Khan, ii. 295
Saigsi, i. 354
Saindak Mt., ii. 307, 324, 326
Salaam to Mecca, i. 257
Salambar Mt., i. 69
Salare Afkham, H. E., i. 40
Salt
and Sand, i. 427
deposits, ii. 24, 119, 124
desert, ii. 36
journey across, ii. 1-89
incrustations, ii. 280
sediments, ii. 21
stream, ii. 75, 78, 129
Sanctuaries, i. 89
Sand
bar, i. 374
barchans, ii. 355
formation of, ii. 318
deposits, i. 422
Sand
dunes, ii. 408
hills, i. 377; ii. 290, 315, 355, 407
mounts, ii. 260
movement and accumulations, ii. 271
storm, ii. 24
Sara Mountains, i. 361
Sar-es-iap
(No. 1), ii. 9
(No. 2), ii. 14
Sar-i-Yezd, i. 410
Sar-tip, the, ii. 162
Sayids, i. 207, 368
Sefid-Rud (River), i. 51, 63
Serde-Kuh (Mts.), i. 414
Servants, i. 86, 241, 420
Shah-Abdul-Azim, i. 91, 118, 244
Shah, an audience of the, i. 219
Shah Rud (River), i. 70
Shah's
Anderum or Harem, i. 238
automobile, i. 218
banqueting room, i. 229
birthday, i. 216
country residences, i, 238
favourite apartments, i. 230
Jewelled-Globe room, i. 232
Museum, i. 227
Palace, i, 225
son, the, i. 239
stables, i. 89
Shai, i. 131, 133
Shehrawat, i. 371
Shela (the Salt River), ii. 279
Shemsh, i. 418
Sher-i-Nasrya (Sistan), ii. 140, 142
Sher-i-Rustam (Rustam's city), ii. 263-269
Shiraz wines, i. 191
Shirkuh Mt., i. 373
Shops, i. 35
Siberia, i. 166
Sibi horse fair, ii. 441
Silk, i. 60, 77, 409
carpets, i. 317
Silver, i. 127
coin,
drain of, i. 128
purchasing power of, i. 128
coins, i. 132
Sin Sin, i. 260
Sistan, i. 185
Articles saleable in, ii. 158
British influence in, ii. 161
commercially, ii. 157
exports from, ii. 159
Vice-Consulate, history of, ii. 171
Sistan's
health and prevalent diseases, ii. 180
transition, ii. 161
Small-pox, i. 70
Société de
Chemins de Fer et des Tramways de Perse, i. 91
Prêts de Perse, i. 143
Soh, i. 276
Soldiers, i. 222
Sorag, ii. 409
Sotag, ii. 361
"Spear of the Sultan," the, ii. 352
Speculators, i. 147
Stable of Rustam's legendary horse, ii. 268
Stars and planets, ii. 36, 114
State Bank of St. Petersburg, i. 144
Statistics, i. 62
Stern, Dr., i. 287
Stone pillar, ii. 314
Stuart, Miss, i. 289
Sugar, ii. 98
Sultan Mts., ii. 351
Summer
Residences, i. 99
Terraces at Warmal, ii. 255
Sunge (transit due), ii. 395
Sunsets, i. 251; ii. 274
in the Desert, ii. 79
Superstition, ii. 365
Surmah, i. 206; ii. 327
Sweets, i. 302
Sykes, Major, ii. 159, 208, 237
Tabriz, i. 186
Tadji, i. 213
Takatu Mts., ii. 434, 440
Tamarisk (kirri), ii. 262, 312, 353, 359, 361, 438
Teeth of Persians, i. 209
Teheran, i. 79, 87, 184
amusements in, i. 85
etiquette in, i. 85
European quarters in, i. 88
foreigners in, i. 86
"Place du Canon," the, i. 88
social sets, i. 85
"Top Meidan," in, i. 90
Tejerish, i. 99
Tek-chand, ii. 151
Telegraph needed, ii. 169
Telegraphs, i. 98, 139
Temporary consulate, ii. 174
Territorial rights, i. 168
Thefts, ii. 166
Theological college, i. 254, 264
Thirst, ii. 54
Time, i. 125, 142
Tobacco, i. 37
Tobacco Corporation, the, i. 148
Tokrajie Mts., ii. 31
Toman, i. 58, 134
Tower, ii. 45
of silence, i. 378
Trade
caravanserais, i. 442; ii. 97
increase in, i. 36
Tramways, i. 91
Transcaspia, i. 128
Treasuring of capital, i. 121
Treaties, sanads and engagements with the Khan of Khelat and other
Beluch chiefs, ii. 381-394
Trench, Major G. Chevenix, ii. 144, 169, 172
Tretoh, ii. 353
Tribal feuds, ii. 396
Twilight, i. 251; ii. 80, 275
Types of natives, i. 354, 367; ii. 16, 63, 257
Umar-al-din Khan, a British trader, ii. 97-99
Vanity, i. 122
Vegetation, i. 59, 62
Veziroff Gazumbek, Russian agent, Birjand, ii. 107
Volcanic
formation, i. 71; ii. 128
region, ii. 13
Votka, i. 19
Walton, M.P., Mr. Joseph, i. 161
Warmal, ii. 255
Warsaw, i. 5
Water, i. 62, 258, 278, 355, 374, 382; ii. 48, 51, 59, 75, 77, 120,
126, 277, 326, 334, 336, 353, 357, 362, 366, 369
Water-melons, i. 260
Water-skins, ii. 72
Weapons, i. 236, 319
Weaving-loom, i. 366
Webb-Ware, C.I.E., Captain F. C., Political Assistant at Chagai,
ii. 147, 170, 357, 367
Well for unfaithful women, i. 202
Wheat from Arabistan, i. 342
Whirlwinds, i. 361
White, Captain, ii. 169
White, Dr. Henry, i. 392
Wife, price of a Beluch, ii. 404
Wind, ii. 75, 81, 408
Wind of 120 days, the, ii. 150
Windmills, ii. 136, 149
Witte, Mr. de, i. 144
Wolves, ii. 15, 34, 71
Woman's society, i. 84
Women, i. 428, 429; ii. 66, 137
anatomically, i. 205
seclusion of, i. 193
Work of Mission among Jews, i. 288
Yadgar, ii. 408
Yate, C.S.I., C.M.G., Colonel C. E.,
Agent to Governor-General of Beluchistan, ii. 441
Yezd, i. 381
citadel, i. 385
European community, i. 391
Government of, i. 385
Governor of, i. 385
health of, i. 390
hospital, i. 390
population of, i. 383
trade, i. 383
Zagar Mengal tribe, ii. 395
Zaidan, ii. 260
history of, ii. 219-232
architecture, ii. 226
Bellew, ii. 222, 225, 230
Canals, ii. 227
Canals dry, ii. 232
caravanserai at Kala-i-fath, ii. 231
Deshtak, ii. 222
devastation of, ii. 220, 221
Goldsmid, Sir F., ii. 223, 230
Jalalabad, ii. 222
Kayani Kings, ii. 231
Kayani Maliks, ii. 221
Nad-i-Ali, ii. 222
Nadir Shah, ii. 231
Peshawaran, ii. 222, 223, 225
Pulki, ii. 222
Rud-i-Perian, ii. 228
Safavi Dynasty, ii. 221
Shah Rukh Shah, ii. 220
Taimur Lang, ii. 221
the great city, ii. 187, 194-232
Arabic inscriptions, ii. 215-217, 223
Chir-pir or tomb of 40 saints, ii. 214
citadel, ii. 206
covered passages, ii. 206
curiosities found at, ii. 196
extensive graveyard, ii. 211
Goldsmid, Sir F., ii. 202
graves, ii. 214
high wall and towers, ii. 205
ice store-houses, ii. 203
imposing citadel, ii. 204
Kala-i-fath, ii. 194, 213, 220, 226, 230, 231
Lash Yuwain, ii. 194, 209, 226
Length and breadth, ii. 208
length of, ii. 209, 220, 232
Mil-i-Zaidan pillar, ii. 201
objects found at, ii. 215
oil lamps excavated at, ii. 217
outer towers, ii. 203
protecting fortresses, ii. 220
remains of double wall, ii. 210
Rud-i-Nasru, ii. 213
Canal, ii. 208
Sand accumulations, ii. 213
strange image excavated at, ii. 218
Sykes, Major, ii. 202, 228
Tablets, ii. 216
Unroofed structures, ii. 211
Wall, continuation of, ii. 207
Zein-ed-din tower, i. 264
Zemahlabad fort, ii. 155
Zen-u-din, i. 413
Ziarats, ii. 337, 352, 356, 398, 423, 438
Ziegler & Co., i. 134, 152, 318
Zil-es-Sultan, i. 323, 349
an audience of, i. 350
Zirreh, ii. 280
Zorap, ii. 270
Zoroaster, i. 396
Zoroastrian religion, i. 398
THE END.
RICHARD CLAY AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BUNGAY.
Transcriber's Notes:
1. Obvious punctuation and printing errors repaired.
2. Format of: "(altitude," "per cent.," "a.m.," "p.m.,"
"a.d.," "b.c." and "s.s."
have been standardised.
3. This text contains diacritical marks and symbols, where possible
these are represented in the text by the following symbols.
Diacritical mark above below
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