Sistan's state of transition--British Consul's tact--Advancing
Russian influence--Safety--A fight between Sistanis and
Afghans--The Sar-tip--Major Benn's pluck and personal
influence--Five Afghans seriously wounded--The city gates
closed--The Customs caravanserai--A British caravanserai
needed--Misstatements--Customs officials--Fair and just treatment
to all--Versatile Major Benn--A much needed assistant--More
Consulates wanted--Excellent British officials--Telegraph line
necessary--A much-talked-of railway--The salutary effect of a
garrison at Robat frontier post.
Sistan is in a state of rapid transition, and it is doubtful whether the
position of the three or four Europeans on duty there is one of perfect
safety. The natives are so far undoubtedly and absolutely favourable to
British influence in preference to Russian, a state of affairs mainly due
to the personal tact of Majors Trench and Benn rather than to
instructions from home, but great caution should be exercised in the
future if this prestige, now at its highest point, is to be maintained.
The Russians are advancing very fast, and their influence is already
beginning to be felt in no slight degree. The Sistanis may or may not be
relied upon. They are not perfectly Europeanised like peoples of certain
parts of Western Persia, nor are they quite so amenable to reason as
could be wished. They can easily be led, or misled, and bribed, and are
by no means easy folks to deal with. For a few tomans one can have people
assassinated, the Afghan frontier so close at hand being a guarantee of
impunity for murderers, and fights between the townspeople and the
Afghans or Beluch, in which many people are injured and killed, are not
uncommon.
[Illustration: The Sar-tip.]
One of these fights, between Sistanis and Afghans (under British
protection), took place when I was in Sistan, and I think it is only
right that it should be related, as it proves very forcibly that, as I
have continually urged in this book, calm and tact, gentleness and
fairness, have a greater and more lasting control over Persians than
outward pomp and red-tape.
The Consul and I, after calling on the Amir, proceeded to visit the
Sar-tip, the Amir's first son by his legal wife. The Sar-tip is the head
of a force of cavalry, and inhabits a country house, the Chahar Bagh, in
a garden to the north outside the city. He is a bright and intelligent
youth, who had travelled with Dr. Golam Jelami to India--from which
country he had recently returned, and where he had gone to consult
specialists about his sadly-failing eyesight.
The Sar-tip, of whom a portrait is here given, received us most kindly
and detained us till dark. Being Ramzam-time we then bade him good-bye,
and were riding home when, as we neared the Consulate gate, a man who
seemed much excited rushed to the Consul and handed him a note from
the Belgian Customs officer. As I was still convalescent--this was my
first outing--and not allowed out after dusk, Major Benn asked me to go
back to the Consulate as he was called to the Customs caravanserai on
business. I suspected nothing until a messenger came to the Consulate
with news. A crowd of some 300 Sistanis had attacked some fifteen Afghan
camel men, who had come over with a caravan of tea from Quetta. These
camel drivers had been paid several thousand rupees for their services on
being dismissed, and some money quarrel had arisen.
On the arrival of the Consul the fight was in full swing, and he found a
crowd of howling Sistanis throwing stones and bricks at the Afghans. At
Major Benn's appearance, notwithstanding that their blood was up and
their temper, one would think, beyond control, the Sistanis immediately
opened a way for him, some even temporarily stopping fighting to make a
courteous salaam. This will show in what respect our Consul is held.
The Afghans, having by this time realised that they had been insulted,
and having, furthermore, discovered the loss of some money--which they
only detected when they went for their rifles and swords, which they kept
together in a safe place with their treasure--formed up in line and, with
drawn swords, made a rush on the Sistanis.
Major Benn with considerable pluck dashed between the fighting men,
seizing with his left hand the rifle of the leader--who had knelt down
and was on the point of firing--and with his right hand got hold of the
blade--fortunately blunt--of another Afghan's sword, who was slashing
away at the Sistanis near him. The force of the blow caused quite a wound
in the gallant Major's hand, but suddenly, as by magic owing to the
respect he commanded on both sides, his action put a stop to the fight.
Seizing this opportunity he talked to them calmly in his usual quiet,
jocular manner, and told the Afghans how, by behaving in this fashion,
while under his protection, they were doing him harm in the eyes of the
Persians in whose country they were guests, and that if they had any
claim they must apply to him and not take the law into their own hands.
With his keen sense of humour he even succeeded with some joke or other
in raising a laugh from both belligerent parties, and requested them to
sit down and give up their arms into his custody, which they willingly
did.
The Afghans seated themselves at the further end of the caravanserai,
while the Sistanis, whom he next addressed in the kindest way, were
persuaded to desist from using further violence. He managed to turn the
whole thing into a joke, and eventually the Sistanis dispersed laughing
and retired within the wall of their city; but, indeed, there were five
Afghans left on the ground severely wounded,--one with a fractured skull
being carried to the Consulate Hospital in a dying condition.
The Afghans possessed some excellent Russian rifles, a great many of
which find their way into Afghanistan from the north.
The Consul, when the row was over, proceeded to the Amir, who had the
gates of the city instantly closed and promised the Consul that they
should not be opened again until the Consul could go the next day to
identify the ringleaders of the attacking Sistanis. The Amir received the
Consul with more than usually marked respect, and showed himself greatly
disturbed at the occurrence. He took personal charge of the keys of the
city and undertook to mete out severe punishment upon the offenders.
The city gates, which are daily opened at sunrise, remained closed the
greater portion of the day at the Consul's request, but for a
consideration the doorkeepers let out occasional citizens,--in all
probability those very ones that should have been kept in.
Unfortunately, being Ramzam-time, when Mussulmans sit up feasting the
greater part of the night, as they are compelled to fast when the sun is
above the horizon, his Excellency the Amir was unable to attend to even
this important matter, which was left to slide from day to day. The
Consul, however, although extremely patient, was the last man to let
things go to the wall, and no doubt in the end the leaders were duly
punished and compensation paid.
The illustration shows the Customs caravanserai, in front of which the
fight took place. Two of the domed rooms shown in the picture are
occupied by Mr. Miletor, the Belgian Customs officer, in Persian employ.
The others are occupied by camel-men or native travellers, there being no
other caravanserai of the kind in Sher-i-Nasrya.
[Illustration: The Customs Caravanserai, Sher-i-Nasrya, Sistan. (Belgian
Customs Officer in foreground.)]
It would be a very great addition to the British Consulate, now that so
many Beluch and Afghans, all under British protection, travel through
Sistan, if a British caravanserai could be built in which they, their
goods and their camels, might enjoy comparative safety. The expense of
putting it up would be very small, and it would avoid the constant
friction which is bound to exist at present in a country where honesty is
not the chief forte of the lower people, and where quarrels are ever
rampant. Even during the short stay of Messrs. Clemenson and Marsh's
caravan, several articles were stolen under their very eyes in the
Consulate shelter, and at the time of my visit caravans, British or
otherwise, were absolutely at the mercy of the natives. The goods were
left out in the open in front of the caravanserai, and the Customs people
had not sufficient men to protect them from interference at the hands of
the lower people.
I have seen it stated by correspondents in leading London papers that
"Russian" Customs officials were stationed in Sistan, and interfered
greatly with British caravans. That is mere fiction from beginning to
end. As I have already stated, there is not a single Russian in the
Customs anywhere in Persia. In Sistan the only official--a Belgian--far
from interfering with the caravans, is of great help to them and does
all in his power within the limits of his duty to be of assistance to
them. The Consul himself was full of praise of the extreme fairness and
justice to all alike of the Belgian official. There never was the
slightest trouble or hitch so long as traders were prepared to comply
with Persian laws, and so long as people paid the duty on the goods
entering the country no bother of any kind was given to anybody, either
British or others.
On April 3rd, 1901, the Persian Government introduced a law abolishing
all inland Customs Houses and transit dues, and substituting instead a
_rahdari_ tax of 6 annas per 240 pounds. This tax is payable on crossing
the frontier, and is levied in addition to the 5 per cent. _ad valorem_
duty to which the Persian Government is entitled under the existing
International Customs Convention. The rate of duty levied (5 per cent.),
is calculated on the actual value of goods, plus the cost of transport.
The Sistan Consul, as well as the officials of the Nushki Sistan route in
Beluchistan, go to an immense deal of trouble to be of use to British
traders and travellers, and everything is made as easy for them as is
compatible with the nature of the country and existing laws.
A great deal of extra heavy work was thrown upon the shoulders of Major
Benn, who acted in no less than three official capacities--Consul,
Postmaster, and Banker--as well as, unofficially, as architect,
house-builder, and general reference officer. It is very satisfactory to
learn that this autumn (1902) an assistant is to be sent out to him from
India, for the work seemed indeed too heavy for one man. Day and night's
incessant work would in time have certainly told on even the cheerful
disposition and abnormally wiry constitution of Major Benn, who, besides
being a most loyal and careful official, takes a great deal of personal
pride in fighting hard to win the severe race which will result in our
eventually acquiring or losing Sistan and Eastern Persia commercially.
Major Benn is most decidedly very far ahead in the race at present, and
owing to him British prestige happens to be at its zenith, but greater
support will be needed in the future if this advantageous race is to be
continued up to the winning post.
Were a Vice-Consulate established at Birjand, as I have said before, the
Sistan Consular work would be relieved of much unnecessary strain, the
distance from Birjand to Sistan being too great under present conditions
to allow the Consul to visit the place even yearly. The medical British
Agent whom we have there at present is excellent, but the powers at his
disposal are small, and a Consulate with an English officer in charge
would most decidedly enhance British prestige in that important city, as
well as being a useful connecting link between Sistan and Meshed, a
distance of close upon 500 miles.
It was a most excellent step to select for the Consular work in Eastern
and Southern Persia men from the Military Political Service, instead of
the usual Foreign Office men, who are probably better adapted for
countries already developed. The Political Service is a most perfect body
of gentlemanly, sensible, active-minded, well-educated men of versatile
talents, the pick of the healthiest and cleverest Englishmen in our
Indian Service. They cannot help doing good wherever they are sent.
Captain Trench, Major Benn, Major Phillott, Captain White, have all
answered perfectly, and have all done and are doing excellent work.
What is most needed at present in Sistan is a telegraph line to Nushki.
Should everybody in the Sistan Consulate be murdered, it would be the
best part of a fortnight or three weeks before the news could reach India
at the present rate of post going. If assistance were needed it could not
reach Sistan from Quetta in less than a couple of months, by which time,
I think, it would be of little use to those in danger. And the danger,
mind you, does exist. It seems rather hard that we should leave men who
work, and work hard and well, for their country absolutely at the mercy
of destiny.
The next most important point would be to join Sistan, or at least Robat,
on the Perso-Beluch frontier, with the long-talked-of railway to Quetta,
but of this we shall have occasion to speak later. So far the line has
been sanctioned to Nushki, but that point, it must be remembered, is
still 500 miles distant from Sistan, a considerable distance across, what
is for practical purposes, desert country.
The third point--the easiest of all, which would involve little expense,
but would have a most salutary effect--would be to maintain a small
garrison at the Perso-Beluch-Afghan frontier post of Robat. This, to my
mind, would at the present moment strengthen the hands of our officials
in Persia to a most extraordinary extent.
Something tangible, which the natives themselves could see and talk
about, together with the knowledge that a smart body of soldiers could
soon be on the spot if required, would not only assure the so far
doubtful safety of the few but precious English lives in those parts, but
would add enormously to our prestige and make us not only revered but
feared.