CHAPTER XXXIX.

1869-1871

The Lushais--The Lushai expedition--Defective transport again

--Practice _versus_ theory--A severe march

--Lushais foiled by Gurkhas--A successful turning movement

--Murder of Lord Mayo

We spent a very quiet year at Simla. My wife was far from strong, and

we had another great sorrow in the death of a baby boy three weeks

after his birth.

That winter I was left in charge of the Quartermaster-General's

office, and we moved into 'Ellerslie,' a larger and warmer house than

that in which we had lived during the summer.

Simla in the winter, after a fresh fall of snow, is particularly

beautiful. Range after range of hills clothed in their spotless

garments stretch away as far as the eye can reach, relieved in the

foreground by masses of reddish-brown perpendicular cliffs and

dark-green ilex and deodar trees, each bearing its pure white burden,

and decked with glistening fringes of icicles. Towards evening the

scene changes, and the snow takes the most gorgeous colouring from

the descending rays of the brilliant eastern sun--brilliant even in

mid-winter--turning opal, pink, scarlet, and crimson; gradually, as

the light wanes, fading into delicate lilacs and grays, which slowly

mount upwards, till at last even the highest pinnacle loses the

life-giving tints, and the whole snowy range itself turns cold and

white and dead against a background of deepest sapphire blue. The

spectator shivers, folds himself more closely in his wraps, and

retreats indoors, glad to be greeted by a blazing log-fire and a hot

cup of tea.

In the spring of the next year (1870) Sir William Mansfield's term

of command came to an end, and he was succeeded by Lord Napier of

Magd[=a]la. The selection of this distinguished officer for the

highest military position in India was greatly appreciated by the

Indian army, as no officer of that army had held it since the days of

Lord Clive.

In September a daughter was born, and that winter we again remained

at Simla. I amused myself by going through a course of electric

telegraphy, which may seem rather like a work of supererogation; but

during the Umbeyla campaign, when the telegraph office had to be

closed in consequence of all the clerks being laid up with fever, and

we could neither read nor send messages, I determined that I would on

the first opportunity learn electric signalling, in order that I might

be able to decipher and send telegrams should I ever again find myself

in a similar position.

In May my wife and I went for a march across the hills to Chakrata,

and thence to Mussoorie and back by way of Dehra Dun and the plains.

The object of this trip was to settle the boundary of Chakrata, and my

wife took the opportunity of my being ordered on this duty to get away

from Simla, as we had now been there for more than two years, and were

consequently rather longing for a change. Our route lay through most

beautiful scenery, and notwithstanding that the trip was a little

hurried, and that some of the marches were therefore rather long, we

enjoyed it immensely. When passing along the ridge of a very high

hill one afternoon, we witnessed rather a curious sight--a violent

thunderstorm was going on in the valley below us, while we ourselves

remained in the mildest, most serene atmosphere, enjoying bright

sunshine and a blue sky. Dense black clouds filled up the valley a

thousand feet beneath us, the thunder roared, the lightning flashed,

and soon we could hear the rush of waters in the streams below from

the torrents of rain which the clouds were discharging; but it was not

until we had crossed over the mountain, and descended to a low level

on the other side, that we fully realized the effects of the heavy

storm.

On our return to Simla we had the pleasure of a visit from

Major-General Donald Stewart, who had come up to receive Lord Mayo's

instructions before taking over his appointment as Superintendent

of the Andaman Islands. In September he and I travelled together to

Calcutta, to which place I was directed to proceed in order to make

arrangements for a military expedition into the country of the

Lushais, having been appointed senior staff officer to the force.

Lushai, situated between south-eastern Bengal and Burma, was a _terra

incognita_ to me, and I had only heard of it in connexion with the

raids made by its inhabitants upon the tea-gardens in its vicinity,

which had now spread too far away from Cachar for the garrison of that

small military station to afford them protection. From time to time

the Lushais had done the planters much damage, and carried off several

prisoners, and various attempts had been made in the shape of small

military expeditions to punish the tribesmen and rescue the captives;

but from want of proper organization, and from not choosing the right

time of the year, these attempts had hitherto been unsuccessful, and

our failures had the inevitable result of making the Lushais bolder.

Raids became more frequent and more destructive; until at last a

little European girl, named Mary Winchester, was carried off, and

kept by them as a prisoner; on this the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal

declared that a punitive expedition was 'absolutely necessary for the

future security of the British subjects residing on the Cachar and

Chittagong frontiers.'

The despatch of a force was therefore decided upon; it was to consist

of two small columns[1]--one having its base at Cachar, the other at

Chittagong--commanded respectively by Brigadier-Generals Bourchier,

C.B., and C. Brownlow, C.B., supreme political power being also vested

in these two officers. Long experience had taught Lord Napier the

wisdom of having only one head in time of war, and he impressed upon

the Government his opinion that the civil officers, while acting as

advisers and as the channels of communication with the tribes, should

be subordinate to the control of the two Commanders, who, after having

been put in possession of the views and wishes of the Government,

should be held responsible for carrying them out loyally so far as

circumstances and the safety of the force would permit.

As the existence of the tea industry was at stake, the Lushais having

established a perfect terror on all the estates within their reach,

it was essential that they should be given a severe lesson, and this

could only be done by their principal villages, which lay at some

considerable distance from the base of operations, being visited in

force. The difficult country and the paucity of transport necessitated

the columns being lightly equipped; no tents were to be allowed, and

baggage and followers were to be reduced to a minimum. My instructions

were to fit out and despatch the two columns, and then join

Brigadier-General Bourchier at Cachar.

I was kept in Calcutta all October--not a pleasant month, the climate

then being very muggy and unhealthy. Everyone who could get away had

gone to the Hills or out to sea; and the offices being closed for the

Hindu holidays of the _Durga Puja,_ it was extremely difficult to get

work done. Everything for the Chittagong column had to be sent by

sea. The shipping of the elephants was rather interesting: they clung

desperately to the ground, trying hard to prevent themselves being

lifted from it; and when at last, in spite of all their struggles,

they were hoisted into the air, the helpless appearance of the huge

animals and their despairing little cries and whines were quite

pathetic. I found it trying work being on the river all day; my eyes

suffered from the glare, and I became so reduced that before I left

Calcutta I weighed scarcely over eight stone--rather too fine a

condition in which to enter on a campaign in a mountainous country, so

thickly covered with jungle as to make riding out of the question.

By the 3rd November the equipment and stores for both columns had been

despatched, and on the 16th I joined General Bourchier at the house of

that most hospitable of hosts, Mr. Edgar,[2] Deputy-Commissioner of

Cachar, who accompanied the left column as civil officer.

We left Cachar on the 23rd, and from the outset we had to make our own

roads, a labour which never ceased until the end of January, by which

date 110 miles had been completed. There was not the vestige of a

track to direct us; but I got hold of some people of the country, with

whom I made friends, and induced them to act as guides. Many a long

and weary reconnaissance had to be executed, however, before the line

of advance could be decided upon. The troops worked with a will, and,

notwithstanding the vapour-bath-like atmosphere of the valleys and the

difficult nature of the country, which was a succession of hill-ranges

covered with jungle forests, made almost impenetrable from the huge

creepers, and intersected by rivers and watercourses, a good road,

from six to eight feet wide, was constructed, with a sufficiently easy

gradient for laden elephants to travel over. Cutting one's way day

after day through these dense, gloomy forests, through which hardly a

ray of light penetrates, was most stifling and depressing. One could

hardly breathe, and was quite unable to enjoy the beauty of the

magnificent trees, the graceful bamboos and canes, and the wonderful

creepers, which abounded, and under other circumstances would have

been a source of pleasure; the difficulties we encountered, and the

consequent delay in our progress, quite prevented me from being in a

frame of mind to appreciate my picturesque surroundings.

It became evident from the first that our onward movements would be

greatly impeded by want of transport. Notwithstanding the experience

which ought to have been gained in many small mountain wars, the

Government had not been taught that a properly organized transport

corps was an absolute necessity, and that it was a mere waste of money

to collect a number of men and animals without providing trained

supervision. Fourteen hundred of our coolies were attached to

the Commissariat Department without anyone to look after them,

consequently officers and non-commissioned officers, who could ill be

spared from their regimental duties, had to be told off to organize

and work them.

To add to our troubles, cholera broke out amongst some Nepalese

coolies on their way to join us; out of 840, 251 died in a few days,

and a number deserted panic-stricken, while the rest were so weakened

and shaken that, notwithstanding the care bestowed upon them by their

able and energetic Commandant, Major H. Moore, only 387 joined the

column. We were not much better off in the matter of elephants, which

had been so carelessly selected that only 33 out of the 157 sent with

our column were of any use. All this resulted in our being obliged to

still further reduce our already small kits. Officers were allowed

only forty pounds of baggage, and soldiers twenty-four pounds, limits

within which it was rather difficult to keep. A couple of blankets

were essential, as we should have to operate over mountains five and

six thousand feet high; so was a waterproof sheet, for even if we

should be lucky enough to escape rain, the dew is so heavy in those

parts that it wets one just as thoroughly as a shower of rain. These

three items with my cloak and cork mattress--which is also a very

necessary adjunct in such a damp climate--amounted to thirty-one

pounds, leaving only nine pounds for a change of clothes, plate,

knife, fork, etc.--not too much for a four months' campaign. However,

'needs must,' and it is surprising how many things one considers

absolute necessities under ordinary circumstances turn out to have

been luxuries when we are obliged to dispense with them.

The advance portion of the column did not arrive at Tipai Mukh, only

eighty-four miles from Cachar, until the 9th December, which will give

an idea of the enforced slowness of our progress. Tipai Mukh proved a

very suitable place for our depot: it was situated at the junction

of two rivers, the Tipai and the Barak; thickly-wooded hills rose

precipitously on all sides, but on the right bank of the Barak there

was sufficient level space for all our requirements. With the help

of local coolies, the little Gurkhas were not long in running up

hospitals and storesheds; bamboo, the one material used in Lushailand

for every conceivable purpose, whether it be a house, a drinking

vessel, a bridge, a woman's ear-ring, or a musical instrument, grew

in profusion on the hillside. A trestle bridge was thrown across the

Tipai in a few hours, and about that bridge I have rather an amusing

story to relate. On my telling the young Engineer officer in charge of

the Sapper company that a bridge was required to be constructed with

the least possible delay, he replied that it should be done, but that

it was necessary to calculate the force of the current, the weight to

be borne, and the consequent strength of the timber required. Off he

went, urged by me to be as quick as he could. Some hours elapsed, and

nothing was seen of the Engineer, so I sent for him and asked him when

the bridge was to be begun. He answered that his plans were nearly

completed, and that he would soon be able to commence work. In the

meantime, however, and while these scientific calculations were being

made, the headman of the local coolies had come to me and said, if the

order were given, he would throw a good bridge over the river in no

time. I agreed, knowing how clever Natives often are at this kind

of work, and thinking I might just as well have two strings to this

particular bow. Immediately, numbers of men were to be seen felling

the bamboos on the hillside a short distance above the stream: these

were thrown into the river, and as they came floating down they were

caught by men standing up to their necks in water, who cut them to the

required length, stuck the uprights into the river-bed, and attached

them to each other by pieces laid laterally and longitudinally; the

flooring was then formed also of bamboo, the whole structure was

firmly bound together by strips of cane, and the bridge was pronounced

ready. Having tested its strength by marching a large number of men

across it, I sent for my Engineer friend. His astonishment on seeing a

bridge finished ready for use was great, and became still greater when

he found how admirably the practical woodmen had done their work; from

that time, being assured of their ability to assist him, he wisely

availed himself when difficulties arose of their useful, if

unscientific, method of engineering.

By the 14th December matters had so far progressed as to warrant an

advance. As our route now lay away from the river, scarcity of water

entailed greater care being taken in the selection of encamping

grounds, so on arriving at our halting-place each day I had to

reconnoitre ahead for a suitable site for our next resting-ground, a

considerable addition to the day's work. Road-making for the passage

of the elephants became more difficult, and transport was so deficient

that the troops could only be brought up very gradually. Thus, it was

the 22nd of the month before we reached the Tuibum river, only twenty

miles from Tipai Mukh. On our way we were met by some scouts from

the villages ahead of us, who implored of us to advance no further,

saying, if we would only halt, their headmen would come in and submit

to whatever terms we chose to make. The villagers were informed in

reply that our quarrel was not with them, and so long as we remained

unmolested, not the slightest injury should be done to them, their

villages, or their crops; but that we were determined to reach the

country of Lalbura, the Chief who had been the ringleader in the raids

upon the tea-gardens.

We pushed on as fast as the dense undergrowth would permit until

within about a mile of the river, where we found the road blocked by

a curious erection in the form of a gallows, from which hung two

grotesque figures, made of bamboo. A little further on it was a felled

tree which stopped us; this tree was studded all over with knife-like

pieces of bamboo, and from the incisions into which these were stuck

exuded a red juice, exactly the colour of blood. This was the Lushai

mode of warning us what would be our fate if we ventured further. We,

however, proceeded on our way, bivouacked for the night, and early the

next morning started off in the direction of some villages which we

understood lay in the road to our destination.

For the first thousand feet the ascent was very steep, and the path so

narrow that we could only march in single file. Suddenly we entered

upon a piece of ground cleared for cultivation, and as we emerged from

the forest we were received by a volley from a position about sixty

yards off. A young police orderly, who was acting as our guide, was

knocked over by my side, and a second volley wounded one of the

sepoys, on which we charged and the enemy retired up the hill. We came

across a large number of these _jooms_ (clearings), and at each there

was a like effort to oppose us, always with the same result. After

advancing in this way for the greater part of the day, alternately

through dense jungle and open spaces, and occasionally passing by

scattered cottages, we sighted a good-sized village, where it was

decided we should remain for the night. The day's march had been very

severe, the village being 4,000 feet above the river; and the troops

were so worn out with their exertions that it was with difficulty the

piquets could be got to construct proper shelter for themselves out of

the plentiful supply of trees and underwood ready at hand. Throughout

the night the enemy's sharpshooters kept up an annoying fire under

cover of the forest which surrounded the village, and so as soon as

day dawned a party moved out to clear the ground all round.

It was most aggravating to find from the view we got of the country

from this elevated position that the previous day's harassing march

had been an absolutely useless performance and an unnecessary waste of

time and strength. We could now distinctly see that this village did

not lead to Lalbura's country, as we had been led to believe it would,

and that there was no alternative but to retrace our steps as far as

the river. The men and animals were too tired to march that day, and

the next being Christmas, we made another halt, and commenced our

retirement on the 26th. This was an extremely nasty business, and

had to be carried out with very great caution. The ground, as I said

before, necessitated our proceeding in single file, and with only

250 fighting men (all that our deficient transport admitted of being

brought on to this point) it was difficult to guard the long line

of sick, wounded, and coolies. As soon as we began to draw in our

piquets, the Lushais, who had never ceased their fire, perceiving we

were about to retire, came down in force, and entered one end of the

village, yelling and screaming like demons, before we had got out

at the other. The whole way down the hill they pressed us hard,

endeavouring to get amongst the baggage, but were invariably baffled

by the Gurkhas, who, extending rapidly whenever the ground was

favourable, retired through their supports in admirable order, and

did not once give the enemy the chance of passing them. We had 3 men

killed and 8 wounded during the march, but the Lushais confessed

afterwards to a loss of between 50 and 60.

As we were given to understand that our short retrograde movement had

been interpreted into a defeat by the Lushais, the General wisely

determined to pay the village of Kholel another visit. Our doing so

had the best possible effect. A slight resistance was offered at the

first clearance, but by the time the ridge was reached the Chief,

having become convinced of the uselessness of further opposition,

submitted, and engaged to give hostages and keep open communication

with our depot at Tipai Mukh, a promise which he most faithfully

performed.

1872 opened auspiciously for me. On New Year's Day I was agreeably

surprised by a communication from the Quartermaster-General informing

me that, a vacancy having unexpectedly occurred, Lord Napier had

appointed me Deputy-Quartermaster-General. This was an important step

in my department, and I was proportionately elated.

A few days later I received the good news of the birth of a son at

Umballa on the 8th.

Paucity of transport and difficulty about supplies kept us stationary

on the Tuibum for some time, after which we moved on as before, the

Lushais retiring in front of us until the 25th, when they attacked

us while we were moving along a narrow ravine, with a stream at the

bottom and steep hills on either side. The first volley wounded the

General in the arm and hand, and killed his orderly. The enemy's

intention was evidently to push past the weak column along the

hillside and get amongst the coolies; but this attempt was again

foiled by the Gurkhas, who, flinging off their great-coats, rushed

into the stream and engaged the Lushais before they could get at the

baggage, pressing them up the mountain, rising 2,500 feet above us, as

fast as the precipitous nature of the ascent would allow. On the crest

we found the enemy occupying a good-sized village, out of which we

cleared them and took possession of it ourselves. On this occasion

we had only 4 killed and 8 wounded, including the General, while the

enemy lost about 60. In one place we found a heap of headless bodies.

The Lushais, if unable to remove their dead, invariably decapitate

them to prevent their adversaries from carrying off the heads, their

own mode of dealing with a slain enemy, as they believe that whoever

is in possession of the head will have the man to whom it belonged as

a slave in the next world.

To complete the success we had gained, the General sent me the next

day with a small party to burn the village of Taikum, belonging to the

people who had attacked us. It was past noon before we could make a

start, owing to the non-arrival of the elephants with the guns. When

they did come in, the poor huge creatures were so fatigued by their

climb that it was considered advisable to transfer their loads to

coolies, particularly as the route we had to traverse was reported to

be even more difficult than anything we had yet encountered. When we

had proceeded a short distance, we perceived that our way was blocked

a mile ahead by a most formidable-looking stockade, on one side of

which rose perpendicular cliffs, while on the other was a rocky

ravine. As the nature of the ground did not admit of my approaching

near enough to discover whether the Artillery could be placed so as to

cover the Infantry advance, and being anxious to avoid losing many

of my small party, I settled to turn the stockade by a detour up the

hillside. This manoeuvre took some time, owing to the uncompromising

nature of the country; but it was successful, for when we struck

the track, we found ourselves about a mile on the other side of the

stockade. The Lushais, on realizing what we were about, retired to

Taikum, which place came into view at 5 p.m. It was situated on the

summit of a hill 1,200 yards in front, and was crowded with men. The

guns were brought at once into action, and while Captain Blackwood[3]

was preparing his fuses, I advanced towards the village with the

Infantry. The first shell burst a little beyond the village, the

second was lodged in its very centre, for a time completely paralyzing

the Lushais. On recovering from the shock, they took to their heels

and scampered off in every direction, the last man leaving the village

just as we entered it. The houses, as usual, were made of bamboo, and

after it had been ascertained that there was no living creature inside

any of them, the place was set on fire, and we began our return

journey. There was a bright moon, but even aided by its light we did

not reach our bivouac until midnight. This ended the campaign so far

as opposition was concerned, for not another shot was fired either by

us or against us during the remaining six weeks we continued in the

country.

Soon after this we heard that some of the captives we had come to

relieve had been given up to the Chittagong column, and that Mary

Winchester was safe in General Brownlow's hands--very satisfactory

intelligence, showing as it did that the Lushais were beginning to

understand the advisability of acceding to our demands. The work of

our column, however, was not over, for although, from the information

we received of his whereabouts, we had given up hope of joining hands

with Brownlow, Bourchier determined that Lalbura's country must be

reached; he (Lalbura) being the chief offender, it would never have

done to let him think his stronghold lay beyond our power.

In order that we might be well out of Lushailand before the rains,

which usually begin in that part of the world about the middle of

March, and are extremely heavy, it was decided not to wait until a

road could be made for elephants, but to trust to coolie-carriage

alone, and to push on rapidly as soon as supplies sufficient for

twelve days could be collected. Kits were still further reduced,

officers and soldiers alike being only allowed a couple of blankets

and one or two cooking utensils.

We resumed our march on the 12th February; the route in many places

was strongly and skilfully stockaded, but the tidings of our successes

had preceded us, and our advance was unopposed. In five days we

reached the Chamfai valley, at the end of which, on a high hill,

Lalbura's village was situated.[4] Although Lalbura's father, Vonolel,

had been dead some years, the people still called the place Vonolel's

country. Vonolel had been a famous warrior, and they were evidently

very proud of his reputation. We were shown his tomb, which, like that

of all great Lushai braves, was decorated with the heads of human

beings (his slaves in paradise) and those of animals, besides

drinking-vessels and various kinds of utensils for his use in another

life.

Lalbura had taken himself off; but his headmen submitted to us and

accepted our terms. We remained at this place till the 21st, in

accordance with an agreement we had made with Brownlow to send up

signals on the night of the 20th in case his column should be anywhere

in the neighbourhood. During the three days we stayed amongst them

we mixed freely with the Lushais, who were greatly delighted and

astonished with all we had to show them. The telescope and the

burning-glass amused them greatly; our revolvers excited their

envy; and for the little Mountain guns they displayed the highest

veneration. But what seemed to astonish them more than anything was

the whiteness of our skins, particularly when on closer inspection

they discovered that our arms and bodies were even fairer than our

faces and hands, which to our eyes had become from long exposure so

bronzed as to make us almost unrecognizable as Europeans.

We were all glad that the duty entrusted to us had been satisfactorily

ended, and we were hoping that the Viceroy, who had taken a keen

personal interest in our proceedings, would be satisfied with the

result, when we were shocked and startled beyond measure by hearing

that Lord Mayo had been murdered by a convict while visiting the

Andaman Islands. The disastrous news arrived as we were in the midst

of firing signal-rockets, burning blue-lights, and lighting bonfires

to attract the attention of the Chittagong column. I could not help

thinking of the heavy loss India had sustained, for the manly,

open-hearted Governor-General had impressed the Native Chiefs in quite

an exceptional manner, and he was liked as well as respected by all

classes of Europeans and Natives. I felt also much for Donald Stewart,

to whom, I knew, such a terrible tragedy, happening while he was

Superintendent at Port Blair, would be a heavy blow.

On the 6th March we reached Tipai Mukh, where we bade farewell to our

Lushai friends, numbers of whom accompanied us to get possession of

the empty tins, bags, and casks which were got rid of at every stage.

The hostages and those who had assisted us were liberally rewarded,

and we parted on the best of terms, with promises on their part of

future good behaviour--promises which were kept for nearly twenty

years.

No one was sorry that the marching was at an end, and that the rest of

the journey back was to be performed in boats. Constant hard work and

exposure in a peculiarly malarious and relaxing climate had told upon

the whole force; while our having to depend for so long on tinned

meats, which were not always good, and consisted chiefly of pork, with

an occasional ration of mutton and salt beef, had been very trying to

the officers. One and all were 'completely worn out,' as the principal

medical officer reported; two out of our small number died, and the

General's condition gave cause for grave anxiety. For myself, having a

perfect horror of pork, I think I should have starved outright but

for the extraordinary culinary talent of Mr. Edgar, who disguised

the presence of the unclean animal in such a wonderful way in soups,

stews, etc., that I frequently partook of it without knowing what I

was eating. My wife and some anonymous kind friend sent by post small

tins of Liebig's extract, which were highly appreciated.

Cholera pursued us up to and beyond Cachar; the wretched coolies

suffered most, and it is a disease to which Gurkhas are peculiarly

susceptible, while a feast on a village pig from time to time probably

helped to make matters worse for them. Many of these grand little

soldiers and some of the Sikhs also fell victims to the scourge. My

orderly, a very smart young Gurkha, to my great regret, was seized

with it the day after I reached Cachar, and died next morning.

On my way to Simla, I spent a few days with Norman at Calcutta. The

whole place was in mourning on account of the terrible catastrophe

which had happened at Port Blair.

[Footnote 1: The Cachar column consisted of half of the Peshawar

Mountain battery, one company of Bengal Sappers and Miners, the 22nd

Punjab Infantry, 42nd and 44th Assam Light Infantry. The Chittagong

column consisted of the other half of the Mountain battery, the 27th

Punjab Infantry, and the 2nd and 4th Gurkhas. Each regiment was 500

strong, and each column was accompanied by 100 armed police.]

[Footnote 2: Now Sir John Edgar, K.C.S.I.]

[Footnote 3: Major Blackwood, who was killed at Maiwand, in command of

E Battery, R.H.A.]

[Footnote 4: Latitude 23° 26' 32", longitude (approximately) 93° 25';

within a short distance of Fort White, lately built in the Chin Hills.]

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Forty-one years in India: from subaltern to commander-in-chief · 第 39 / 69 章