CHAPTER XXXV.

1863

The Umbeyla expedition--The Akhund of Swat

--The 'Eagle's Nest' and 'Crag piquet'--The death of Lord Elgin

--Loyalty of our Pathan soldiers--Bunerwals show signs of submission

--The conical hill--Umbeyla in flames--Bunerwals agree to our terms

--Malka destroyed

In the autumn of 1863, while we were preparing for the usual winter

tour, Sir Hugh Rose, who had accompanied Lord Elgin on a trip through

the hills, telegraphed to the Head-Quarters staff to join him at Mian

Mir without delay.

The news which greeted us on our arrival was indeed disturbing. Lord

Elgin was at Dharmsala in a dying condition, and the Chief had

been obliged to leave him and push on to Lahore, in consequence of

unsatisfactory reports from Brigadier-General Chamberlain, who was

just then commanding an expedition which had been sent into the

mountains near Peshawar, and had met with unexpected opposition. The

civil authorities on the spot reported that there existed a great deal

of excitement all along the border, that the tribes were collecting in

large numbers, that emissaries from Kabul had appeared amongst

them, and that, unless reinforcements could be sent up at once, the

Government would be involved in a war which must inevitably lead to

the most serious complications, not only on the frontier, but with

Afghanistan. In so grave a light did the Lieutenant-Governor, Sir

Robert Montgomery, view the position, that he contemplated the force

being withdrawn and the undertaking abandoned.

Sir Hugh had had nothing to do with the despatch of this expedition;

it had been decided on by the Government of India in consultation with

the Lieutenant-Governor of the Punjab. When the Commander-in-Chief was

communicated with, he expressed himself adverse to the proposal, and

placed his views at length before the Government, pointing out the

inexpediency of entering a difficult and unknown country, unless the

troops were properly equipped with transport, supplies, and reserve

ammunition; that time did not permit of their being so equipped before

the winter set in; and that, to provide a force of 5,000 men (the

strength considered necessary by the Government), the frontier would

have to be dangerously weakened. Moreover, he gave it as his opinion

that it would be better to postpone operations until the spring, when

everything could be perfectly arranged. Subsequent events proved how

sound was this advice. But before proceeding with my narrative it will

be as well to explain the circumstances with led the authorities to

undertake this expedition.

In 1857, when all our resources were required to quell internal

tumult, the Hindustani fanatics[1] took the opportunity to stir up

disturbances all along the Yusafzai frontier of the Peshawar district,

and, aided by the rebel sepoys who had fled to them for protection,

they made raids upon our border, and committed all kinds of

atrocities. We were obliged, therefore, to send an expedition against

them in 1858, which resulted in their being driven from their

stronghold, Sitana, and in the neighbouring tribes being bound down to

prevent them reoccupying that place. Three years later the fanatics

returned to their former haunts and built up a new settlement at

Malka; the old troubles recommenced, and for two years they had been

allowed to go on raiding, murdering, and attacking our outposts with

impunity. It was, therefore, quite time that measures should be taken

to effectually rid the frontier of these disturbers of the peace,

provided such measures could have been decided upon early enough in

the year to ensure success.

The Punjab Government advocated the despatch of a very strong force.

Accordingly, two columns were employed, the base of one being in the

Peshawar valley, and that of the other in Hazara. The Peshawar column

was to move by the Umbeyla Pass, the Buner frontier, and the Chamla

valley, thus operating on the enemy's line of retreat. This route

would not have been chosen, had not Chamberlain been assured by the

civil authorities that no hostility need be feared from the Bunerwals,

even if their country had to be entered, as they had given no trouble

for fifteen years, and their spiritual head, the Akhund of Swat,[2]

had no sympathy with the fanatics. It was not, therefore, considered

necessary to warn the Buner people of our approach until preparations

were completed; indeed, it was thought unadvisable to do so, as it was

important to keep the proposed line of advance secret. The strength of

the force was 6,000 men, with 19 guns, but to make up these numbers

the stations in Upper India had to be considerably weakened, and there

was no reserve nearer than Lahore.

The Peshawar column[3] being all ready for a start, a Proclamation was

forwarded to the Buner and other neighbouring tribes, informing

them of the object of the expedition, and stating that there was no

intention of interfering with them or their possessions.

On the following morning, the 20th October, the Umbeyla Pass was

entered, and by noon the kotal[4] was reached without any resistance

to speak of; but, from information brought in, it was evident that any

further advance would be stoutly opposed. The road turned out to be

much more difficult than had been anticipated, and the hurriedly

collected transport proved unequal to the strain. Not a single baggage

animal, except the ammunition mules, got up that night; indeed, it was

not until the morning of the 22nd--more than forty-eight hours after

they started--that the rear guard reached the kotal, a distance of

only six miles. As soon as it arrived Colonel Alex. Taylor, R.E., was

sent off with a body of Cavalry, under Lieutenant-Colonel Probyn, to

reconnoitre the road in front. The delay in reaching the top of the

pass had given the tribes time to collect, and when the reconnoitring

party entered the Chamla valley the Bunerwals could be seen about two

miles and a half off, occupying in force the range which separates

Buner and Chamla. Whatever may have been their first intention, they

apparently could not resist the temptation to try and cut off this

small body of Cavalry, for our horsemen on their return journey found

a large number of the trusted Buner tribe attempting to block the

mouth of the pass. A charge was made, but mounted men could not do

much in such a hilly country; the proceedings of the Bunerwals,

however, had been observed from the kotal, and Major Brownlow,[5] with

some of his own regiment (the 20th Punjab Infantry), was sent to the

assistance of the party. A hand-to-hand fight ensued, and the enemy

pressed our troops closely on their way back, coming right in amongst

them with the utmost daring.

There was now brought in to the Commissioner by a spy the copy of

a letter from the Hindustani fanatics, addressed to the Bunerwals,

telling them not to be taken in by our assurances that our only object

was to punish the fanatics, for our real intentions were to annex

Chamla, Buner, and Swat. This letter no doubt aroused the suspicions

of the tribes, and, encouraged by the slowness of our movements, they

all joined against us from Buner, Mahaban, and the Black Mountain.

On the 23rd large bodies of men with numerous standards were to be

seen approaching the mouth of the pass, and a day or two later a

report was received that our foes were to have the support of the

Akhund of Swat, which meant a most formidable accession of moral as

well as material strength, and put a stop, for the time being, to

any possibility of a successful advance being made with the force at

Chamberlain's disposal.

The position occupied by our troops was enclosed on the left (west)

by the Guru Mountain, which separates Umbeyla from Buner, and on the

right (east) by a range of hills, not quite so high. The main piquet

on the Guru occupied a position upon some precipitous cliffs known as

the Eagle's Nest, while that on the right was designated the 'Crag

piquet.' The Eagle's Nest was only large enough to accommodate 110

men, so 120 more were placed under the shelter of some rocks at its

base, and the remainder of the troops told off for the defence of the

left piquet were drawn up on and about a rocky knoll, 400 feet west of

the Eagle's Nest.

Some 2,000 of the enemy occupied a breastwork on the crest of a spur

of the Guru Mountain; and about noon on the 26th they moved down, and

with loud shouts attacked the Eagle's Nest. Their matchlock men posted

themselves to the greatest advantage in a wood, and opened a galling

fire upon our defences, while their swordsmen made a determined

advance. The nature of the ground prevented our guns from being

brought to bear upon the assailants, and they were thus able to

get across the open space in front of the piquet, and plant their

standards close under its parapet. For some considerable time they

remained in this position, all our efforts to dislodge them proving of

no avail. Eventually, however, they were forced to give way, and were

driven up the hill, leaving the ground covered with their dead, and a

great many wounded, who were taken into our hospitals and carefully

treated, while a still greater number were carried off by their

friends. Our losses were, 2 British officers, 1 Native officer, and

26 men killed; and 2 British officers, 7 Native officers, and 86 men

wounded.

The day following the fight the Bunerwals were told they might carry

away their dead, and we took advantage of their acceptance of this

permission to reason with them as to the uselessness of an unnecessary

sacrifice of their tribesmen, which would be the certain result of

further opposition to us. Their demeanour was courteous, and they

conversed freely with General Chamberlain and Colonel Reynell Taylor,

the Commissioner, but they made it evident that they were determined

not to give in.

Our position had now become rather awkward; there was a combination

against us of all the tribes between the Indus and the Kabul rivers,

and their numbers could not be less than 15,000 armed men. Mutual

animosities were for the time allowed to remain in abeyance, and

the tribes all flocked to fight under the Akhund's standard in the

interests of their common faith. Moreover, there was trouble in the

rear from the people along the Yusafzai border, who assisted the

enemy by worrying our lines of communication. Under these changed

conditions, and with such an inadequate force, Chamberlain came to

the conclusion that, for the moment, he could only remain on the

defensive, and trust to time, to the discouragement which repeated

unsuccessful attacks were sure to produce on the enemy, and to the

gradual decrease of their numbers, to break up the combination against

us; for, as these tribesmen only bring with them the quantity of food

they are able to carry, as soon as it is finished they are bound to

suspend operations till more can be procured.

For three weeks almost daily attacks were made on our position; the

enemy fought magnificently, some of them being killed inside our

batteries, and twice they gained possession of the 'Crag piquet,' the

key of the position, which it was essential should be retaken at all

hazards. On the second occasion General Chamberlain himself led the

attacking party, and was so severely wounded that he was obliged to

relinquish the command of the force.

The Lieutenant-Governor of the Punjab, being convinced that

reinforcements were necessary, in consultation with Colonels Durand[6]

and Norman (the Foreign and Military Secretaries, who had come to

Lahore to meet the Viceroy), and without waiting for the sanction of

the Commander-in-Chief, ordered to the frontier the three regiments

which had been detailed for the Viceroy's camp,[7] as well as the 93rd

Highlanders, then at Sialkot; and when Sir Hugh Rose on his arrival

at Lahore heard of the heavy losses the expeditionary force had

sustained, and of General Chamberlain being _hors de combat_ from his

wound, further reinforcements from every direction were hurried to the

front. Subsequently, however, it became a question whether the troops

should not be withdrawn altogether, and the punishment of the fanatics

given up, the Government of India and the Punjab Government being

completely in accord in favouring this view, while the Commissioner of

Peshawar, Major James (who had succeeded Reynell Taylor),[8] and Sir

Hugh Rose were as strongly opposed to a retrograde movement. The

Commander-in-Chief pointed out to the Government that the loss of

prestige and power we must sustain by retiring from the Umbeyla Pass

would be more disastrous, both from a military and political point

of view, than anything that could happen save the destruction of the

force itself, and that General Chamberlain, on whose sound judgment he

could rely, was quite sure that a retirement was unnecessary.

Unfortunately at this time the Viceroy died at Dharmsala, and the

question remained in abeyance pending the arrival of Sir William

Denison, Governor of Madras, who was coming round to take over the

reins of Government until a successor to Lord Elgin should be sent

from England.

In the meantime Sir Hugh Rose was most anxious to obtain exact

information respecting our position at Umbeyla, the means of operating

from it, the nature of the ground--in fact, all details which could

only be satisfactorily obtained by sending someone to report on the

situation, with whom he had had personal communication regarding

the points about which he required to be enlightened. He therefore

determined to despatch two officers on special service, whose duty it

would be to put the Commander-in-Chief in possession of all the facts

of the case; accordingly, Colonel Adye[9] (Deputy-Adjutant-General

of Royal Artillery) and I were ordered to proceed to Umbeyla without

delay.

Adye proved a most charming travelling companion, clever and

entertaining, and I think we both enjoyed our journey. We reached the

pass on the 25th November.

There had been no fighting for some days, and most of the wounded had

been removed. Sir Neville Chamberlain was still in camp, and I was

sorry to find him suffering greatly from his wound. We were much

interested in going over the piquets and listening to the story of the

different attacks made upon them, which had evidently been conducted

by the enemy with as much skill as courage.[10] The loyalty of our

Native soldiers struck me as having been most remarkable. Not a single

desertion had occurred, although all the Native regiments engaged,

with the exception of the Gurkhas and Punjab Pioneers, had amongst

them members of the several tribes we were fighting, and many of our

soldiers were even closely related to some of the hostile tribesmen;

on one occasion a young Buner sepoy actually recognized his own father

amongst the enemy's dead when the fight was over.[11]

We listened to many tales of the gallantry of the British officers.

The names of Brownlow, Keyes,[12] and Hughes[13] were on everyone's

lips, and Brownlow's defence of the Eagle's Nest on the 26th October,

and of the 'Crag piquet' on the 12th November, spoke volumes for his

coolness and pluck, and for the implicit faith reposed in him by the

men of the 20th Punjab Infantry, the regiment he had raised in 1857

when but a subaltern. In his official report the General remarked that

'to Major Brownlow's determination and personal example he attributed

the preservation of the "Crag piquet."' And Keyes's recapture of the

same piquet was described by Sir Neville as 'a most brilliant exploit,

stamping Major Keyes as an officer possessing some of the highest

military qualifications.' Brownlow and Keyes were both recommended for

the Victoria Cross.

We (Adye and I) had no difficulty in making up our minds as to

the course which ought to be taken. The column was daily being

strengthened by the arrival of reinforcements, and although the

combination of the tribesmen was still formidable, the enemy were

showing signs of being disheartened by their many losses, and of a

wish to come to terms.

Having consulted the civil and military authorities on the spot, we

informed the Commander-in-Chief that they were of opinion a withdrawal

would be most unwise, and that it was hoped that on the arrival of

General Garvock[14] (Chamberlain's successor) an advance would be made

into the Chamla valley, for there would then be a sufficient number

of troops to undertake an onward move, as well as to hold the present

position, which, as we told the Chief, was one of the strongest we had

ever seen.

Sir William Denison reached Calcutta on the 2nd December. A careful

study of the correspondence in connexion with the Umbeyla expedition

satisfied him that the Commander-in-Chief's views were correct, and

that a retirement would be unwise.

Sir Hugh Rose had previously requested to be allowed to personally

conduct the operations, and in anticipation of the Government acceding

to his request, he had sent a light camp to Hasan Abdal, from which

place he intended to push on to Umbeyla; and with the object of

collecting troops near the frontier, where they would be available

as a reserve should the expedition not be soon and satisfactorily

settled, he desired me to select an encamping-ground between Rawal

Pindi and Attock suitable for 10,000 men.

Leaving Adye in the pass, I started for Attock, where I spent three

days riding about in search of a promising site for the camp. I

settled upon a place near Hasan Abdal, which, however, was not in the

end made use of. The people of the country were very helpful to me;

indeed, when they heard I had been a friend of John Nicholson, they

seemed to think they could not do enough for me, and delighted in

talking of their old leader, whom they declared to be the greatest man

they had ever known.

On my return I marched up the pass with the Rev. W. G. Cowie[15] and

Probyn, who, with 400 Cavalry, had been ordered to the front to be in

readiness for a move into the Chamla valley. James, the Commissioner,

had been working to detach the Bunerwals from the combination against

us, and on the afternoon of our arrival a deputation of their headmen

arrived in camp, and before their departure the next morning they

promised to accompany a force proceeding to destroy Malka, and to

expel the Hindustani fanatics from the Buner country.

Later, however, a messenger came in to say they could not fulfil their

promise, being unable to resist the pressure brought to bear upon them

by their co-religionists. The man further reported that large numbers

of fresh tribesmen had appeared on the scene, and that it was intended

to attack us on the 16th. He advised the Commissioner to take the

initiative, and gave him to understand that if we advanced the

Bunerwals would stand aloof.

Sir Hugh Rose had been accorded permission to take command of the

troops in the field, and had sent word to General Garvock not 'to

attempt any operations until further orders.' James, however, thinking

that the situation demanded immediate action, as disturbances had

broken out in other parts of the Peshawar valley, deprecated delay,

and pressed Garvock to advance, telling him that a successful

fight would put matters straight. Garvock consented to follow the

Commissioner's advice, and arranged to move on the following day.

The force was divided into three columns. The first and

second--consisting of about 4,800 men, and commanded respectively by

Colonel W. Turner, C.B.,[16] and Lieutenant-Colonel Wilde, C.B.--were

to form the attacking party, while the third, about 3,000 strong,

under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Vaughan,[17] was to be left

for the protection of the camp.

At daybreak, on the 15th, the troops for the advance, unencumbered by

tents or baggage, and each man carrying two days' rations, assembled

at the base of the 'Crag piquet.' Turner, an excellent officer, who

during the short time he had been at Umbeyla had inspired great

confidence by his soldierly qualities, had on the previous afternoon

reconnoitred to the right of the camp, and had discovered that

about 4,000 men were holding the village of Lalu, from which it was

necessary to dislodge them before Umbeyla could be attacked. On being

told to advance, therefore, Turner moved off in the direction of Lalu,

and, driving the enemy's piquets before him, occupied the heights

overlooking the valley, out of which rose, immediately in front about

200 yards off, a conical hill which hid Lalu from view. This hill,

which was crowded with Hindustani fanatics and their Pathan allies,

was a most formidable position; the sides were precipitous, and the

summit was strengthened by _sangars_.[18] No further move could be

made until the enemy were dislodged, so Turner lined the heights all

round with his Infantry, and opened fire with his Mountain guns.

Meanwhile, Wilde's column had cleared off the enemy from the front

of the camp, and formed up on Turner's left. On the advance being

sounded, Turner's Infantry rushed down the slopes, and in ten minutes

could be seen driving the enemy from the heights on his right; at the

same time the 101st Fusiliers, the leading regiment of Wilde's column,

made straight for the top of the conical hill, and, under cover of

the fire from the Mountain guns of both columns, and supported by

the Guides, 4th Gurkhas, and 23rd Pioneers, they climbed the almost

perpendicular sides. When near the top a short halt was made to give

the men time to get their breath; the signal being then given, amidst

a shower of bullets and huge stones, the position was stormed, and

carried at the point of the bayonet. It was a grand sight as Adye and

I watched it from Hughes's battery; but we were considerably relieved

when we perceived the enemy flying down the sides of the hill, and

heard the cheers of the gallant Fusiliers as they stood victorious on

the highest peak.

[Illustration: THE STORMING OF THE CONICAL HILL AT UMBEYLA BY THE

101ST FOOT (BENGAL FUSILIERS).

_From a sketch by General Sir John Adye, G.C.B., R.A._]

Now that the enemy were on the run it was the time to press them, and

this Turner did so effectually that the leading men of his column

entered Lalu simultaneously with the last of the fugitives. The

rapidity of this movement was so unexpected that it threw the enemy

inside the walls into confusion; they made no stand, and were soon in

full retreat towards Umbeyla and the passes leading into Buner.

While affairs were thus prospering on our right, the enemy, apparently

imagining we were too busy to think of our left, came in large

numbers from the village of Umbeyla, threatening the camp and the

communications of the second column. Wilde, however, was prepared for

them, and held his ground until reinforced by Turner, when he made a

forward movement. The Guides, and detachments of the 5th Gurkhas and

3rd Sikhs, charged down one spur, and the 101st down another; the

enemy were driven off with great slaughter, leaving a standard in

the hands of the Gurkhas, and exposing themselves in their flight to

Turner's guns. During the day they returned, and, gathering on the

heights, made several unsuccessful attacks upon our camp. At last,

about 2 p.m., Brownlow, who was in command of the right defences,

assumed the offensive, and, aided by Keyes, moved out of the

breastworks and, by a succession of well-executed charges, completely

cleared the whole front of the position, and drove the tribesmen with

great loss into the plain below.

All opposition having now ceased, and the foe being in full retreat,

the force bivouacked for the night. We had 16 killed and 67 wounded;

while our opponents admitted to 400 killed and wounded.

The next morning we were joined by Probyn with 200 sabres of the 11th

Bengal Lancers and the same number of the Guides; and after a hasty

breakfast the order was given to march into the Chamla valley. My duty

was to accompany the Mountain batteries and show them the way. As we

debouched into comparatively open country, the enemy appeared on a

ridge which completely covered our approach to Umbeyla, and we could

descry many standards flying on the most prominent points. The road

was so extremely difficult that it was half-past two o'clock before

the whole force was clear of the hills.

General Garvock, having made a careful reconnaissance of the enemy's

position, which was of great strength and peculiarly capable of

defence, had decided to turn their right, a movement which was to be

entrusted to the second column, and I was told to inform Turner that

he must try and cut them off from the Buner Pass as they retreated.

I found Turner close to Umbeyla and delivered my message. He moved

forward at once with the 23rd Pioneers and a wing of the 32nd Pioneers

in line, supported by the second wing, having in reserve a wing of the

7th Royal Fusiliers.

When we had passed the village of Umbeyla, which was in flames, having

been set fire to by our Cavalry, the wing of the 32nd was brought up

in prolongation of our line to the right. The advance was continued

to within about 800 yards of the Buner Pass, when Turner, observing a

large body of the enemy threatening his left flank, immediately sent

two companies of the Royal Fusiliers in that direction. Just at that

moment a band of _Ghazis_ furiously attacked the left flank, which

was at a disadvantage, having got into broken ground covered with low

jungle. In a few seconds five of the Pioneer British officers were

on the ground, one killed and four wounded; numbers of the men were

knocked over, and the rest, staggered by the suddenness of the

onslaught, fell back on their reserve, where they found the needed

support, for the Fusiliers stood as firm as a rock. At the

critical moment when the _Ghazis_ made their charge, Wright, the

Assistant-Adjutant-General, and I, being close by, rushed in amongst

the Pioneers and called on them to follow us; as we were personally

known to the men of both regiments, they quickly pulled themselves

together and responded to our efforts to rally them. It was lucky they

did so, for had there been any delay or hesitation, the enemy, who

thronged the slopes above us, would certainly have come down in great

numbers, and we should have had a most difficult task. As it was, we

were entirely successful in repulsing the _Ghazis_, not a man of

whom escaped. We counted 200 of the enemy killed; our losses were

comparatively slight--8 killed and 80 wounded.

We bivouacked for the night near the village of Umbeyla, and the next

morning the Bunerwals, who, true to their word, had taken no part in

the fighting on the 15th or 16th, came in and made their submission.

The question which now had to be decided was, whether a force fully

equipped and strong enough to overcome all opposition should be sent

to destroy the fanatic settlement of Malka, or whether the work of

annihilation should be entrusted to the Bunerwals, witnessed by

British officers. The latter course was eventually adopted, chiefly

on account of the delay which provisioning a brigade would entail--a

delay which the Commissioner was anxious to avoid--for although for

the present the combination had broken up, and most of the tribesmen

were dispersing to their homes, the Akhund of Swat and his followers

were still hovering about in the neighbourhood, and inaction on our

part would in all probability have led to a fresh gathering and

renewed hostilities.

The terms which were drawn up, and to which the Bunerwals agreed,

were:

The breaking-up of the tribal gathering in the Buner Pass.

The destruction of Malka; those carrying out the work to be

accompanied by British officers and such escort as might be

considered necessary by us.

The expulsion of the Hindustanis from the Buner, Chamla, and

Amazai countries.

And, finally, it was stipulated that the headmen of their tribe

should be left as hostages until such time as the requirements

should have been fulfilled.

On the afternoon of Saturday, the 19th December, the little party

of British officers who were to witness the destruction of Malka

assembled at Umbeyla. Its members were Reynell Taylor (who was in

charge), Alex. Taylor (Commanding Engineer), two Survey officers,

Wright, Adye, and myself. Twenty-five Cavalry and 4 companies of the

Guides Infantry, under four officers, formed our escort, and it had

been arranged that we were to be accompanied by four leading Buner

Khans, with 2,000 followers, who would be responsible for our safety,

and destroy the fanatics' stronghold in our presence. Rain was falling

heavily, but as all our arrangements had been made, and delay was

considered undesirable, it was settled that we should make a start. It

was rough travelling, and it was almost dark when we reached Kuria,

only eight miles on our way, where we halted for the night, and where

we had to remain the next day, as the Bunerwals declared they could

not continue the journey until they had come to an understanding with

the Amazais, in whose territory Malka was situated.

We had noticed on leaving Umbeyla that, instead of 2,000 Bunerwals,

there were only about sixty or seventy at the most, and in reply to

our repeated questions as to what had become of the remainder, we were

told they would join us later on. It soon became evident, however,

that no more were coming, and that the Khans thought it wiser to trust

to their own influence with the Amazais rather than to intimidation.

We made a fresh start on the morning of the 21st. Malka was only

twelve miles off, but the way was so difficult, and our guides stopped

so often to consult with the numerous bands of armed men we came

across, that it was sunset before we arrived at our destination.

Malka was perched on a spur of the Mahabun mountain, some distance

below its highest peak. It was a strong, well-built place, with

accommodation for about 1,500 people. The Amazais did not attempt to

disguise their disgust at our presence in their country, and they

gathered in knots, scowling and pointing at us, evidently discussing

whether we should or should not be allowed to return.

The next morning Malka was set on fire, and the huge column of smoke

which ascended from the burning village, and was visible for miles

round, did not tend to allay the ill-feeling so plainly displayed. The

Native officers of the Guides warned us that delay was dangerous, as

the people were becoming momentarily more excited, and were vowing we

should never return. It was no use, however, to attempt to make a

move without the consent of the tribesmen, for we were a mere handful

compared to the thousands who had assembled around Malka, and we were

separated from our camp by twenty miles of most difficult country. Our

position was no doubt extremely critical, and it was well for us that

we had at our head such a cool, determined leader as Reynell Taylor. I

greatly admired the calm, quiet manner in which he went up and spoke

to the headmen, telling them that, the object of our visit having been

accomplished, we were ready to retrace our steps. At this the

Amazais became still further excited. They talked in loud tones, and

gesticulated in true Pathan fashion, thronging round Taylor, who stood

quite alone and perfectly self-possessed in the midst of the angry and

dangerous-looking multitude. At this crisis the Bunerwals came to our

rescue. The most influential of the tribe, a grey-bearded warrior,

who had lost an eye and an arm in some tribal contest, forced his way

through the rapidly increasing crowd to Taylor's side, and, raising

his one arm to enjoin silence, delivered himself as follows: 'You are

hesitating whether you will allow these English to return unmolested.

You can, of course, murder them and their escort; but if you do, you

must kill us Bunerwals first, for we have sworn to protect them, and

we will do so with our lives.' This plucky speech produced a quieting

effect, and taking advantage of the lull in the storm, we set out on

our return journey; but evidently the tribesmen did not consider the

question finally or satisfactorily settled, for they followed us the

whole way to Kuria. The slopes of the hills on both sides were covered

with men. Several times we were stopped while stormy discussions took

place, and once, as we were passing through a narrow defile, an armed

Amazai, waving a standard above his head, rushed down towards us.

Fortunately for us, he was stopped by some of those less inimically

disposed; for if he had succeeded in inciting anyone to fire a single

shot, the desire for blood would quickly have spread, and in all

probability not one of our party would have escaped.

On the 23rd December we reached our camp in the Umbeyla Pass, when the

force, which had only been kept there till our return, retired to the

plains and was broken up.

During my absence at Umbeyla my wife remained with friends at Mian Mir

for some time, and then made her way to Peshawar, where I joined her

on Christmas Day. She spent one night _en route_ in Sir Hugh Rose's

camp at Hasan Abdal, and found the Chief in great excitement and very

angry at such a small party having been sent to Malka, and placed at

the mercy of the tribes. He did not know that my wife had arrived, and

in passing her tent she heard him say: 'It was madness, and not one

of them will ever come back alive.' She was of course dreadfully

frightened. As soon as Sir Hugh heard she was in camp, he went to see

her, and tried to soften down what he knew she must have heard; but

he could not conceal his apprehension; and my poor wife's anxiety was

terrible, for she did not hear another word till the morning of the

day I returned to her.

[Footnote 1: In 1825 a religious adventurer from Bareilly made his

appearance on the Yusafzai frontier with about forty Hindustani

followers, and gave out that he was a man of superior sanctity, and

had a divine command to wage a war of extermination, with the aid of

all true believers, against the infidel. After studying Arabic at

Delhi, he proceeded to Mecca by way of Calcutta, and during this

journey his doctrines had obtained so great an ascendency over the

minds of the Mahomedans of Bengal that they have ever since supplied

the colony which Syad Ahmed Shah founded in Yusafzai with money and

recruits. The Syad was eventually slain fighting against the Sikhs,

but his followers established themselves at Sitana, and in the

neighbourhood of that place they continue to flourish, notwithstanding

that we have destroyed their settlements more than once during the

last forty years.]

[Footnote 2: The Akhund of Swat was a man of seventy years of age at

the time of the Umbeyla expedition; he had led a holy life, and had

gained such an influence over the minds of Mahomedans in general,

that they believed he was supplied by supernatural means with the

necessaries of life, and that every morning, on rising from his

prayers, a sum of money sufficient for the day's expenditure was found

under his praying carpet.]

[Footnote 3: The Peshawar column consisted of half of 19th Company

Royal Artillery, No. 3 Punjab Light Field Battery, the Peshawar and

Hazara Mountain Batteries, the 71st and 101st Foot, the Guides, one

troop 11th Bengal Lancers, one company Bengal Sappers and Miners, 14th

Sikhs, 20th Punjab Infantry, 32nd Pioneers, 1st, 3rd, 5th and 6th

Punjab Infantry, and 4th and 5th Gurkhas. The Hazara column consisted

of a wing of the 51st Foot, 300 Native Cavalry, a regiment of Native

Infantry and eight guns, holding Darband, Torbela, and Topi on the

Indus.]

[Footnote 4: The highest point of a pass crossing a mountain range.]

[Footnote 5: Now General Sir Charles Brownlow, G.C.B.]

[Footnote 6: The late Sir Henry Marion Durand, K.C.S.I., C.B.,

afterwards Lieutenant-Governor of the Punjab.]

[Footnote 7: 7th Royal Fusiliers, 23rd Pioneers, and 24th Punjab

Native Infantry.]

[Footnote 8: Reynell Taylor remained with the force as political

officer.]

[Footnote 9: General Sir John Adye, G.C.B.]

[Footnote 10: The expedition was an admirable school for training men

in outpost duty. The Pathans and Gurkhas were quite at home at such

work, and not only able to take care of themselves, but when stalked

by the enemy were equal to a counter-stalk, often most successful. The

enemy used to joke with Brownlow's and Keyes's men on these occasions,

and say, 'We don't want you. Where are the _lal pagriwalas?_ [as the

14th Sikhs were called from their _lal pagris_ (red turbans)] or the

_goralog_ [the Europeans]? They are better _shikar_ [sport]!' The

tribesmen soon discovered that the Sikhs and Europeans, though full of

fight, were very helpless on the hill-side, and could not keep their

heads under cover.]

[Footnote 11: Colonel Reynell Taylor, whilst bearing like testimony to

the good conduct of the Pathan soldiery, said the personal influence

of officers will always be found to be the only stand-by for the

Government interests when the religious cry is raised, and the

fidelity of our troops is being tampered with. Pay, pensions, and

orders of merit may, and would, be cast to the winds when the honour

of the faith was in the scale; but to snap the associations of years,

and to turn in his hour of need against the man whom he has proved

to be just and worthy, whom he has noted in the hour of danger, and

praised as a hero to his family, is just what a Pathan will not do--to

his honour be it said. The fact was that the officers in camp had been

so long and kindly associated with their soldiers that the latter were

willing to set them before their great religious teacher, the Akhund

of Swat ('Records of Expeditions against the North-West Frontier

Tribes').]

[Footnote 12: The late General Sir Charles Keyes, G.C.B.]

[Footnote 13: The late Major-General T. E. Hughes, C.B., Royal

Artillery.]

[Footnote 14: The late General Sir John Garvock, G.C.B.]

[Footnote 15: Now Bishop of Auckland and Primate of New Zealand.]

[Footnote 16: The late Brigadier-General Sir W. W. Turner, K.C.B.]

[Footnote 17: General Sir T. L. Vaughan, K.C.B.]

[Footnote 18: Stone breastworks.]

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