drench; in ten minutes after give 1 pint of linseed oil.
AN INFALLIBLE LOTION FOR BLOWS, BRUISES, SWELLINGS, SPRAINS, &C.
This lotion is truly astonishing in its effects, and cannot be surpassed
for the purposes for which it is intended. Dissolve 2 ounces of gum
camphor in 1 pint of 95 per cent. alcohol, and when dissolved add
2 ounces oil of turpentine,
2 “ spirits sal amoniac,
1 “ oil origanum,
2 tablespoonsful laudanum.
This lotion must be well rubbed in with the hand for a full quarter of an
hour every time it is used, which should be four times a day.
FOR THE BLACK TONGUE.
Take a handful of fine salt and rub well upon the tongue of the horse
that has this disease, which will effect a cure in two applications. It
is an infallible, simple and cheap remedy.
LOTION FOR SCRATCHES OR GREASE.
Take white oak bark and make a strong decoction of it by boiling; then
dissolve a portion of pulverized alum in the decoction, say ½ pound of
alum to a quart of decoction, and it is ready for use. Before applying
the lotion, wash the parts with warm soap suds two or three times a day.
This lotion has never been known to fail when properly applied. A lotion
made of alum and water is said to be good.
TO QUIET OR TAME HORSES.
Take of the oil of roses 4 drops, oil of cummin 4 drops, and a portion
of the wart or horney substance that forms on the leg, powder it fine;
then drop the oil in and mix it in your hand, put some up the horse’s
nostrils, and give him some in his feed. This is said to be a certain
remedy for taming horses, so that you may handle them as you please.
TREATMENT OF FOUNDER.
As soon as it is ascertained that the horse is foundered, take from the
neck vein from 1 to 2 gallons of blood; then give 1 ounce of pulverized
alum, mixed with damp oats; place the horse in a dry stall, ground floor
is best, wrap the legs up as high as the knees and hock joints, with
woollen cloths, saturate them with cold water for seven or eight hours;
give him no food for twenty-four hours, and then let it be a light feed
of oats and bran mash mixed. In two or three days turn him out for
exercise. If the ankles continue feverish, bathe them at night with equal
parts of vinegar, alcohol and sweet oil.
FOR URINE BOUND.
Take dandeline leaves, make a strong decoction and drench freely. A
decoction made of water-melon seeds will answer the same purpose. Whiskey
will generally accomplish the object.
FOR THE DISTEMPER.
Give the horse indigo water to drink: feed on bran mash mixed with a
small quantity of sulphor or brimstone; or you may use some good horse
powders, adding thereto a little of the brimstone. The easiest mode to
tincture the water with the indigo is to put it into a common muslin
bag; then dip the bag into the water, letting it remain until the water
becomes bluish, or until you think it contains a sufficient quantity of
the indigo. Give no other water to drink. This is a safe remedy.
HOOF OINTMENT.
Take 1 pound of tar and 1 pound of tallow, mix them with ½ pound of
common turpentine in a stone ware dish; stir them until they are
thoroughly mixed together. This is an excellent dressing for sore hoofs,
for horses and oxen.
EMBROCATION FOR THE THROAT.
This embrocation may be used without taking the hair off. Take
2 ounces spirits of hartshorn,
2 “ oil of turpentine,
2 “ spirits of camphor,
1 “ laudanum.
Mix well and put into a bottle; keep it well corked.
TO MAKE ELDER OINTMENT.
Take the green leaves of elder, if they can be had; if not, take of the
inside bark any quantity and lard in proportion to the elder, then fry to
a crisp, which will be found very efficacious in healing sores, scalds,
burns, sprains, or any humorous swelling. The elder alone fried in the
same manner and strained, makes a much better ointment. This is worth
making and keeping on hand, as its cost is a mere trifle.
FOR BLOOD OR BOG SPAVIN.
For curing the above disease dress with mercurial ointment two or three
times, and then with iodine ointment. To make mercurial ointment, take
1 ounce of quicksilver to 3 ounces of lard, beat both together until
thoroughly mixed. Iodine ointment is made by mixing equal quantities of
iodine and mercurial ointment well together.
A GOOD HORSE POWDER.
The following prescription will make an excellent powder for ordinary
purposes. Take
2 pounds sulphor of brimstone,
2 “ cream of tartar,
1 “ antimonia,
1 “ saltpetre.
The dose of this mixture is 1 table spoonful morning and evening.
ON BLISTERING.
The Spanish fly in its action is intense, yet superficial. It plentifully
raises the cuticle, yet rarely injures the true skin and therefore seldom
blemishes. The application of other acrid substances is occasionally
followed by deeply seated ulceration; but a blister composed of the
Spanish fly alone, while it does its duty, leaves, after a few weeks
have passed, scarcely a trace behind. The art of blistering consists in
cutting or rather shaving the hair close, then rubbing on the ointment at
least ten minutes. As soon as the vesicles have risen, which will be in
something like 20 hours, you may relieve the animal by the application
of olive or neatsfoot oil. In inflammation of the lungs, &c., it should
be made to act sooner. The principle of the blister is, that no intense
inflammation can exist in the neighboring parts at the same time. An
infusion of 2 ounces of the flies in 1 pint of oil of turpentine, for
several days, is frequently used, and with good effect. This is a sure
and safe remedy. If in the winter blanket the horse to keep him warm
until he is over it; put a blanket over the head also if very cold.
TINCTURE OF ALOES AND MYRRH.
This will answer well for dressing either fresh or old wounds. Take
8 ounces of powdered aloes,
1 “ “ myrrh,
1 quart spirits of wine,
1 ounce water,
Put these into a bottle and shake every day for two weeks, when it will
be ready for use. This is an excellent preparation, and can be relied
on. Any person having horses should never be without this tincture, the
cost being but a mere trifle, and will often and in every case save time,
trouble and expense, where there is use for it.
TINCTURE OF OPIUM.
To make the above take 2 ounces of powdered opium and 2 pints spirits of
wine, put into a bottle and shake well every day for a week, when it will
be ready for use.
COMMON BLISTERING OINTMENT.
To make the above ointment which may be used for blistering in
inflammation of the lungs, bowels, &c. Take
1½ pounds of lard,
2 ounces venice turpentine,
2 “ rosin,
2½ “ spanish flies, powdered,
Melt the rosin, turpentine and lard in any common vessel, and when the
mixture begins to cool put in the powdered flies; mix well by stirring.
Before applying the blister clip or shave the hair off and grease, rub
well for ten minutes. After it has acted, grease with lard or oil.
FOR RING BONE OR SPAVIN.
The following will be found very useful for removing ring bone or spavin,
or any other bony substance. Take
8 ounces of spanish flies,
1 pound of lard,
1 “ rosin,
6 ounces of venice turpentine,
Melt the lard, rosin and turpentine over a slow fire, and when beginning
to cool add the spanish flies. Apply three mornings in succession; and in
twelve hours after the last application dress with lard; keep out of the
water while blistering, which may be reduced with oil and used for the
purpose of irritating and removing inflammation, lameness, &c. The horse
should not get wet while blistering.
SPIRITS OF PIMENTO.
To make spirits of pimento take
½ pound of ground allspice,
1 quart of alcohol.
1 “ of water,
Put these into a bottle and shake well before using. It is now ready for
use though it is better to let it stand several days. This is a good
lotion for the wind colic after the gas has been removed.
TINCTURE OF IODINE.
To make this tincture take 1 ounce of iodine, 1 pint of spirits of wine,
and mix well. It is very good for enlarged glands of the neck, joints and
muscles, and may be used twice a day without taking the hair off.
LINIMENT FOR SPRAINS, SWELLINGS, &c.
To make this liniment, which will never fail in curing sprains,
swellings, &c. &c. Take
2 ounces hartshorn,
2 “ spirits camphor,
1 “ oil of turpentine,
½ “ laudanum.
Mix well together and put into a bottle, being careful to keep it well
corked.
COOLING LOTION FOR INFLAMMATION
This is an excellent lotion for wounds of the eyes, &c. to be used after
bleeding freely. Take
2 drachms sugar of lead,
1 “ white vitriol,
1 pint lime water.
Put them into a bottle and shake often, so as to dissolve the
ingredients. Apply it as a wash, bathing the parts affected two or three
times a day.
FOR THE SWEANEY.
This is a troublesome disease, and is very common amongst horses. It can
easily be detected by examining the withers, which will be slightly sunk,
and the skin becomes very tight to the muscles and flesh; and if suffered
to run on, the horse will get very lame and the skin tight, and the
withers much sunken. I have seen horses frequently have it on the rump
or near the hip bone; it would cause the horse to become very lame. This
disease should be attacked when first discovered, and never suffer it to
run on until the horse becomes very lame and the parts much sunken.
REMEDY.
Take 1 pint strong vinegar,
“ 1 gill spirits turpentine,
“ 1 oz. pulverized saltpetre.
Put all into a bottle, shake, mix and dissolve well, and it is fit for
use. Rub the liniment on the sunken parts with the hand as much as will
soak in twice a day, until it becomes sore, and the skin gets loose;
then apply once a day until all is used. This liniment will never fail
in curing if applied properly, and is the only safe and sure remedy for
sweaney. I have never known it to fail; you may grease with sweet oil 1
day after using the last time. This liniment will take off the hair, but
it will do no harm, as the hair will come out in a short time as fine as
ever, and will not leave the least blemish. The liniment must act on the
skin, and if it does not make sore or act on the skin, add more spirits
turpentine. If you have a horse that has the sweaney, do not put yourself
to the trouble of getting any person to cure it for you, or purchase any
quack medicine for it; but go to work and cure it yourself, which can
be done for 12½ cents. The horse should not be worked while using it. I
have known it to be cured whilst working the horse, but the animal should
not be punished in that way. In case the first dose does not entirely
relieve, use the second time: this you will have no need for if you do
not work the horse.
HOW TO THROW OR MAKE A HORSE LAY DOWN.
Whatever you may intend the horse to do, it is always necessary to give
him some idea what you wish him to do, and repeat whatever it may be
until the horse is sure to remember it. To make a horse lay down, bend
the left fore leg until the hoof is nearly bottom upwards; then fasten a
loop over his leg above the pastern joint firmly, so that he cannot get
the foot down: next fasten one end of another strap around his right foot
above his hoof; place the strap through the left leg where it is bent;
keep the strap in your right hand; keep on the left side of the horse;
let the bridle have a strap to it; bring this up over the opposite-side
of his neck, grasp it with your left hand, drawing the strap steady,
so as to draw his head to the right; pull steady with the right hand
strap, bearing against the shoulder to cause him to move; when he does
move, he will come on his knees; keep the strap tight, so that he cannot
straighten his leg; keep him in this position, turning his head towards
you; bear against his side slightly with your shoulder with an equal
pressure; in ten minutes or so, he will be down. As soon as he is down,
he will be conquered; and you can handle as you please; keep his head up,
now you may take off the straps, straighten out his legs, rub him about
the face, head and neck with your hand the way the hair lays; handle
all his legs gently, and he will soon learn that you won’t do him any
harm. After he has laid some 15 or 20 minutes, let him get up again.
Rest him a short time, and make him lay down again as before: repeat the
operation three or four times which is sufficient for one lesson; give
him 3 or 4 lessons, and he will lay down by taking hold of one foot, and
tapping him on the other leg with a stick while you have hold of his
foot--finally he will lay down from the motion of the stick. Before you
attempt to make a horse lay down, place a thick bed of hay on the floor
or ground, so that he cannot hurt himself in the least. If your horse
is very scarry, fretful or skittish after you have given him one or two
lessons, take something that will rattle or any thing that is calculated
to frighten him, rattle it and pass over his head and about him; he may
be much frightened at first, keep his head up, and he cannot get up, and
by continuing with this, he will soon get used to it and not mind it.
It will be the same with a kicking horse after you pass over him with
harness, chains, &c. he will soon become accustomed to it, so that you
can hitch him up and work him with safety.--In all cases where horses
have been broke of bad habits, you should be cautious not to show him
opportunities to learn his old tricks over. The most gentle horse can be
spoiled and brought into bad habits; so you should be careful with the
one that has just been broke from his bad habits.
The above is the only safe and sure course which you can pursue with a
horse with bad habits. I would here again press upon you when you have
him on his knees, to commence patting him under the belly--continue with
gentle strokes upon the belly. You will in a few minutes bring him to
his knees behind: continue the process and he will lay down and submit
himself to your treatment. By proceeding gently you may handle his feet
and legs any way you choose. By practising this process a few times,
you will find him perfectly gentle and submissive, and will generally
follow you, and is unwilling to leave you unless he be very wild; the
first treatment will answer.--Should you have a very wild horse, and
cannot manage him, take the button or horney substance which grows on the
back part of the horse’s leg; dry this, pulverize it fine, drop a few
drops of oil of roses and a few drops oil cummin; put some of this up his
nostrils: this is best done by putting it in a large quill and blowing it
up the nostril; feed him with a small portion of it from off your hand,
with a little oats; also breathe your breath into his nostrils; by doing
this, he will permit you to handle his feet, legs, &c. or permit you to
get on his back, or suffer you to handle as you please. By pursuing these
courses, and handling occasionally, always letting him know what you want
him to do, you will be able to quiet and tame a horse to become perfectly
gentle.
RULES FOR A HORSE THAT SHYES.
When you have a horse that shyes or scares at a stump, log or any object
that may come in his way, never whip him for it, or attempt to force him
up to it or by it. But be easy with him, try and get him up to the object
by gentle handling; patting and rubbing him on the neck, shoulders, &c.
Finally you will get him up to the object, and he will smell or feel
it with his nose. If you pursue this course he will finally forget and
give up the habit of scaring. If you wish to satisfy yourself about this
course, take a buffalo robe or a red blanket, place your horse in a yard
and hold up the robe, moving towards him; he will soon throw up his
head, snort and run. Then throw the robe down in the centre of the yard;
if frightened he will not rest until he has touched it with his nose;
he will soon begin to walk toward the robe and snort, getting a little
closer until he touches it with his nose, he will see that it will do him
no harm, and finally he will pick it up with his teeth and care nothing
about it. This will show you at once that if you can get him up to the
object and let him feel it with his nose, he will care nothing about
it, and soon forget his scaring, &c.--When you try the robe experiment
step up to one side and watch his motions, and he will soon give you
the principle upon which he acts. The same course must be pursued in
breaking wild colts; go up to it cautiously and by degrees, never rush up
to it all at once; be cautious, watch the colt, and if you see that he
is frightened at your approach stop a little, and when he becomes quiet
approach a little nearer, and so on until he will suffer you to touch
his face, then rub him gently the way the hair lays; continue doing this
until he will permit you to feel him pretty near all over; then place
your halter on him, gently rubbing and feeling him over the face and
head. When you have the halter on lead him over the yard cautiously; do
not frighten him or whip him. Never whip unless he is very stubborn and
does not fear you, then you should give him a few sharp cuts with the
whip about his hind legs so as it will crack sharp and cause him to fear
you. After you have him started feel his face, fore legs, &c. a good
deal more than you have whipped him, then he will soon become fond of you
again. After you have learned him to move off, you may put on the bridle
and learn him by gentling him as you did with the halter; you may now put
on the saddle, but do it cautiously, feeling him by degrees, then get
yourself a block about eighteen inches high, place this by his side and
when he gets used to this get up on the block, then put your foot in the
stirrup, putting a little of your weight in it by degrees; as soon as you
find he will bear it you can get on the saddle and make him move off, but
do it all cautiously so as not to frighten him. When you have learned him
all this you may next put on the harness, carefully feeling him first,
and give him to understand what you want him to do; as soon as he finds
out you will not hurt him he will suffer the harness to be put on; now
you may hitch him to a light log, and learn him to pull this first; when
he does this well use a heavier one, and when he does this all well you
can hitch him up in a wagon or sulky, but do it all carefully, and do not
frighten him or you may make a bad job of it. The above principle should
always be carried out in every thing you wish the horse to learn. You
cannot expect a man to do any piece of work for you unless he understands
it, or has learned the principle of it, much less can you expect a horse
to do something he knows nothing about. If you pursue this course you
can soon get the horse to understand what you want him to do, and he
will become very fond of you. I will here state that if you have a very
stubborn colt or horse, you may use the oil of roses and oil of cummin
with the powdered button, which should be blown into his nostrils.
HOW TO DRIVE OR BREAK A KICKING HORSE.
Or horses with bad habits. First take up one fore foot, bend his leg
till his hoof is bottom upward, then slip a loop over his knee above the
pastern joint to keep it tight. This should be done with a leather strap,
forming a loop around the one, and so fixed as to buckle around the
other; be careful so as to fasten it so as it cannot slip down or come
loose, or you may pass a loop over the leg, and with another strap tie
the loop close together, between the leg, so as to prevent it from coming
down. This will leave the horse on three legs. You can handle now as you
wish, as it is impossible for him to kick whilst his leg is up. This will
conquer the horse quicker than any other course which you can pursue, and
especially a kicker or one that runs off when he has the chance so to do.
The surest plan for a horse that will attempt to run off as soon as you
hitch him up, is to fasten up his leg as directed above or learn him to
hop along on three legs awhile, which he will soon learn to do. Exercise
him two or three times, in this way fifteen or twenty minutes at a time,
or until conquered, allowing his leg to be loosed. When you have learned
him to walk in this way, fasten up his leg and put the harness on him
and hitch up to sulky. Now you may drive off and need not be fearful of
the horse kicking or doing any damage while one foot is up, nor can he
kick or run fast enough to do any harm. But you can now drive him as you
please. Should he want to run let him have the lines and whip too, with
perfect safety; by doing this two or three times you will cure him at
once of running off. The horse will be frightened at first, but he will
soon see that you do not want to hurt him and will not care anything more
about it. You can finally let down the leg and drive off gently without
any further trouble.
I will here give you another plan to break or prevent a horse from
kicking whilst working him. Loop a strap or rope around the horse’s hind
leg, with one end and with the other end fasten around the foreleg,
allowing it just long enough for him to make a step, in order to keep
the strap from dragging on the ground or being in his way while walking.
Pass a strap around his back, letting it pass under his belly and fasten
it up in this way; this properly done will soon conquer him, as it is
impossible for him to kick whilst the strap is to his legs.
I will still give you another plan to prevent a horse from kicking. Loop
a strap around the hind leg; let it pass through between the fore legs,
thence through the ring of the bridle bit, allowing the strap just long
enough for him to make the step, now fasten the strap. You can now drive
off with safety, as it is utterly impossible for him to kick or to do any
harm. You should pass a strap around the horse’s back and fasten up the
strap or rope to prevent it from dragging on the ground.
Another still to prevent a horse from kicking when hitched up in shafts,
if he will stand quiet long enough to fasten in the shafts, when you have
him hitched up, loop a strong strap around the shaft on the one side,
let it pass over the hips and fasten it to the shaft on the opposite
side; next fasten the strap to the harness at the top, so as to prevent
it from slipping down; you can now drive off with safety, as far as the
kicking is concerned; for he cannot kick to do any harm if the strap
stays firmly at its place, and the vehicle heavy enough to prevent him
from raising it.
FOR THE BLACKSMITH.
If you have a horse which you cannot manage to shoe, take up his leg as
directed in the kicking horse, and handle him awhile, patting and rubbing
all his legs, &c.; when he becomes quiet, let his leg down to rest;
then take it up again and rub his legs as before, and let him know what
you are about to do to him; then let his leg down and commence to shoe.
Should he be very fretful yet, and will not suffer you to put on the
shoe, you will meet with success by making him lay down and perform as
directed in making the horse lay down.
CURE FOR BOTS.
Mix 1 pint honey with 1 quart sweet milk; give as a drench; 1 hour after
dissolve 1 oz. pulverized copperas 1 pint of water, use as a drench;
then give 1 quart linseed oil; this cure is said to be effectual. The
principle of giving the horse the sweet drench is good; it will generally
cause the bots to let loose and take a fill of the sweet drench; then you
should not fail to give plenty of physic to carry them off.
HOW TO MAKE A HORSE FOLLOW YOU.
Put your horse into a large stable or small yard; commence to gentle
him a little, take hold of the halter or bridle, turn him towards you,
touching him with a long whip; at the same time lead him the length of
the stable or yard, rubbing him on the neck, face and head; say to him
gently as you lead, come along boy, or better to use his name: whenever
you turn, touch him slightly with the whip, so as to make him step up
close to you; then gentle him again with your hand as before; he will
soon learn to escape the whip and to be gentled with the hand; he will
soon learn to follow you around without taking hold of the halter or
bridle. Should he stop or turn from you, give him a few cuts about the
hind legs; he will soon turn his head towards you, when you must always
gentle him with your hand. A few lessons will make him follow you or
run after you if he sees the motion of the whip; in a half hour he will
follow you about the stable or yard. After you have given him 3 or 4
lessons in this way, you can take into a lot and from thence into the
road, and he will follow you any where and run after you.
HOW TO LEARN HIM TO STAND STILL.