Cream .10
Yeast .02
Tuesday—Oysters .12
Steak .30
Lima Beans .05
Wednesday—Extra milk for soup .04
Thursday—Smelts .10
3 pounds beef .35
Pork .10
Lettuce .05
Friday—Cauliflower .10
Milk for soup .04
Clams .15
Soup bone .15
Saturday—Veal cutlets, 1½ pounds .27
Chicken .50
Bacon .14
Extra butter .25
Milk for week .56
Ice, 100 pounds .40
Fuel .50
———
$7.19
Molly had added to the supplies she had ordered for the month, which,
it will be remembered, amounted to $9.86, the following articles:
Macaroni $0.20
Nutmegs .10
Lemons .20
Carrots, turnips, onions .36
Apples .40
Parsley .05
Thyme .05
———
$1.36
which brought the amount to $11.22; one fourth of which, $2.80, added
to $7.19, made the week’s expenditure $9.99.
“Now, although that amount has been spent this week, you must remember
that of several of the articles bought, a little is left, and I have
not to begin this week without a scrap in the house as I had the last,”
explained Molly. “We need ice only a week or two longer, but when that
need ceases we shall require more fuel; but I think a dollar a week
_all the year round_ will average ice and fuel, so I shall allow that.
We shall use $2 a week for a few weeks, but barely 50 cents the rest of
the year.”
Molly laid the accounts before her husband as she finished, and he
gravely looked them over.
“And if, this month, I come out even five cents ahead, we may count
ourselves safe, for buying in the very small quantities I am now
doing is an extravagant way. But I wanted to make sure my ‘paper
housekeeping’ would work in practice.”
There was rather an anxious look in Harry’s eyes as he read over the
accounts. He was afraid Molly had sadly miscalculated, and he hated to
prove her at fault, although he loved to poke fun at her.
“What’s the matter?” asked his wife, starting up and looking over his
shoulder.
“Only, dear, if you remember, we had chicken in one form or other
several times this week, but there is only one chicken counted, and
that is to-day. Also lamb chops we have had several times.” He glanced
up at her deprecatingly, for he felt such criticism ungracious, yet
necessary; but Molly was quite serene.
“The box of chicken in Monday’s bill was all I’ve used; the chops
also were from Monday. There’s one thing, though, I will call your
attention to, and that is, that the most expensive meal we have had
was the steak, yet people who use steak every day are supposed to live
_plainly_ and _economically_.”
“Then we come out wonderfully, I acknowledge.”
“This week, of course, Marta has simply seen how I want things done;
next week I want her to actually do the cooking from recipes. Do you
think you can stand last week’s dinners all over again?”
“Of course, my dear; why not?”
“That’s well, because if I teach her new things before she has learnt
these thoroughly, she will get confused. I want to feel that there are
a few things I can absolutely trust her to do. Then I can go on to
fresh fields, so you may have things that are difficult to cook rather
oftener than I like, till Marta is capable.”
“I shall not object to aid in Marta’s education so far,” said Harry.
CHAPTER X.
DETAILS OF MOLLY’S MANAGEMENT—RECIPES.
MOLLY had not entered so fully into matters with Harry as she would
have done had he been a woman; but as this story is to tell, not only
what Molly did, but how she did it, I must be a little more explicit.
She found herself on Wednesday with a breast of lamb, eight chops, half
a box of boned chicken, and a small piece of steak. The chops were good
for two breakfasts; the chicken, prepared as for croquettes, would make
either eight of those, or three croquettes, three rissoles, and some
fritters. Now, as eight croquettes for two people would be waste, since
they were only an _entrée_, the main dinner being something else, she
had no idea of that, but rissoles, fritters and croquettes being all
prepared alike, and keeping better in that way, she made the mixture,
and used enough for the three croquettes, leaving the rest in the
ice-box for use another day. Part of the chops she would not want to
use till the end of the week, and keeping them quite sweet she made
all the fat that had come from the lamb (dripping and trimmings, etc.)
boiling hot, then laid the chops in it—_seethed_ them, as it were—for
one minute, then put them away with the coat of fat on them, to be
scraped off when they were to be cooked.
For the clam soup a pint and a half was all that was needed, and the
liquor, with half the clams, was all that she used; the rest she
scalloped for breakfast.
It was in making no more of each dish than they could eat (but allowing
_plenty_ for kitchen as well as dining-room) that Molly was able
to have what seemed a surprising table,—that and one other thing,
allowing _nothing whatever_ to be wasted. The piece of steak left from
Tuesday’s dinner was fag end; it was put away, and when the hash was
made for Friday morning from the remains of _à la mode_ beef, the steak
was just the thing to add to it.
For lunch there had always been enough in the house from dinner
the night before. As it was her plan to put Marta more on her own
responsibility the following week, she had prepared for that purpose
the recipes of the principal things; and as Marta’s mistakes and
difficulties might occur to others, the working of them out in her
hands will be more instructive than recounting Molly’s certain success.
The recipes were as follows:—
HASHED LAMB.—The remains of ragout of lamb, freed from bone, chopped
with the vegetables, the gravy, and a tea-spoonful of butter and one of
Worcestershire sauce added; the whole made boiling hot, and served on
fried bread.
SOUFFLÉ BREAD.—Two eggs, two table-spoonfuls of flour, in which
half a tea-spoonful of baking-powder is sifted; beat yolks and a
table-spoonful of butter, melted, together, then add flour and _just_
milk enough to make a _very thick_ batter; add a pinch of salt and
a tea-spoonful of sugar; whip whites of eggs to a firm froth, and
stir gently in. Have ready a small iron spider (or earthen pan is
still better), made hot, with a dessert-spoonful of butter also hot,
but not so hot as for frying; pour the mixture, which should be like
sponge-cake batter, into the pan, cover with a lid or tin plate, and
set it back of the stove if the fire is good—if slow, it may be quite
forward. When well risen, almost like omelet soufflé, set it in the
oven five minutes to brown the top; if the oven is cool, you may very
carefully turn it, so as not to deaden it; serve when done, under side
uppermost. It should be a fine golden brown.
Soufflé bread may be _baked_ in a thick tin, with rather more butter
than enough to grease it, but the oven must be very hot indeed, and it
should be covered till thoroughly puffed up, then allowed to brown.
TOMATO CREAM SOUP.—Put six ripe tomatoes on to stew; when done, boil
one pint of milk in a double boiler, mix two tea-spoonfuls (large) of
flour with very little milk till smooth, then stir it into the boiling
milk; cook ten minutes. To the tomato put a salt-spoonful, _scant_, of
soda, stir well, then rub through a strainer fine enough to keep back
seeds; add a dessert-spoonful of butter to the milk, stirring well,
then the tomato, and serve immediately.
BREAST OF LAMB ROASTED.—Take out the bones with a small, sharp knife;
put them on to boil with a piece of carrot and a slice of onion, a pint
of water and a bay leaf; boil for two hours till reduced to less than
half. Roll the breast (it may be seasoned with pepper, salt and chopped
parsley before rolling) and skewer it, then brush it over with egg and
roll in cracker crumbs; bake in a good oven an hour and a half, basting
often. It should be very well browned, but not burnt. When done take
it up, put a dessert-spoonful of butter in the pan, which set on the
stove, then add a scant one of flour; let them brown together, stirring
the while; strain to it the gravy from the bones, stirring quickly to
prevent lumps, season to taste, add a tea-spoonful of lemon juice or
vinegar, and pour round the meat.
CHICKEN CROQUETTES.—Half a box of boned chicken, or half a chicken;
chop it fine, flavor with a few mushrooms, or a little oyster liquor,
or oysters chopped, or a very little ham, or simply a piece of onion
as large as a hazel-nut, scalded and chopped _very_ fine, and a
tea-spoonful of _finely_ chopped parsley. In flavoring this (and other
dishes) take advantage of what may be in the house suitable. Put a
table-spoonful of butter in a small saucepan with a table-spoonful
of flour, stir till they bubble, then put into a half-pint measure a
gill of strong stock made from bones (Molly had bruised up the bones
from the shoulder of lamb and boiled them down) and, if you have it, a
gill of cream or milk (unless you have oyster or mushroom liquor, when
_half_ a gill of cream), and fill up with either of them (the liquid,
of whatever kind, must be just half a pint to this quantity); pour
this on the butter and flour, and stir till it forms a _thick_, smooth
sauce; boil five minutes, season highly, and then mix the chicken with
it; stir together, and pour it out on a plate, and put it to get quite
cold and firm. If no stock is used, an egg must be stirred into the
sauce, moving it a few seconds from the fire before adding it, or it
will curdle. When it is cold and stiff, put plenty of cracker meal on
a board, beat an egg with a table-spoonful of water, cut the chicken
mixture into strips, roll it between the hands into shapes like wine
corks, _no larger_, put each one into the egg, then into the cracker
meal, taking care the egg has covered every part and the meal coats it
thoroughly. As each is done, lay it on a plate of cracker meal. They
may be prepared an hour or two before they are needed. To fry them, the
fat must be so hot that bread dropped into it will color well in thirty
seconds; arrange a few at a time in a frying basket, set it in the hot
fat; two minutes will make them golden brown; if left longer, or made
too large, they will burst.
RISSOLES.—Take a little fine paste,—any trimmings will do,—roll it as
_thin as paper_, cut it into squares three inches by four, lay on each
a strip as thick as your finger of the chicken mixture, and roll up,
wetting the edges of the paste and pressing together, so that there
will be no oozing out; egg and crumb the same as croquettes, and fry
_four_ minutes.
CHICKEN FRITTERS.—Make some good batter thus: a cup of flour sifted;
melt a table-spoonful of butter in a scant cup of _warm_ water, which
pour by degrees to the flour, making a batter thick enough to mask the
back of a spoon dipped in it; salt to taste; add, the last thing, the
white of an egg well beaten. Make the chicken mixture into balls the
size of small walnuts, flatten a little, dip into the batter, and drop
from the spoon into _very hot_ fat, the same as croquettes.
PEACH PUDDING.—A cup of flour, one tea-spoonful of baking-powder
sifted in it; make into a very thick batter with three parts of a
cup of milk, beat two eggs very light with a quarter cup of sugar,
add a pinch of salt, mix, and then stir in as many cut-up peaches as
you can; butter a bowl thoroughly, nearly fill with the mixture, tie
a cloth over it, and plunge into _fast_ boiling water; boil one hour,
taking care that ebullition _never ceases_ while the pudding is in the
saucepan, or it will be soggy. Serve with cream, or soft custard, or
hard sauce.
PEACH FRITTERS are made by the same recipe, but dropped by the spoonful
in boiling lard.
FRIED SMELTS.—Cleanse and dry them, then dip them in milk, then in
flour; shake off superfluous flour, and then egg and crumb them the
same as chops, laying each fish when done on a bed of cracker meal.
Make the lard as hot as for croquettes, and drop them in five or six at
a time. If the lard is hot enough they will brown in two minutes.
BEEF À LA MODE.—Three pounds of the vein or any coarse part of beef
that is solid meat, and half a pound of fat pork. Pierce the meat in
several places with a knife, and into each hole thus made put a strip
of pork; lay the beef in an earthen pan, with a bay leaf, a sprig
of thyme, four sprigs of parsley, two onions, medium size, with a
clove stuck in each, half a blade of mace, half a carrot and turnip,
a wine-glass of cooking-sherry, and a gallon of water, with half a
salt-spoonful of pepper. The pan should not be much larger than the
meat. Cover closely, using a common flour and water paste round the
edges to prevent the steam escaping, and set in a good oven three
hours. The wine may be omitted, and a wine-glass more water added, with
a table-spoonful of Worcestershire sauce and half one of vinegar. When
done, take up the meat carefully, strain the gravy, skim and season,
and pour it over the meat. Don’t add the salt till the gravy is done,
as pork varies so much that you may get it too salt with very little
added; you must go by taste.
CONES OF CARROTS AND TURNIPS.—Boil them separately in quarters,
using white turnips; chop each fine in a chopping-bowl, put a
dessert-spoonful of butter with them, season with _white_ pepper and
salt, then press them into a cone shape—a wine-glass will answer—and
stand them in alternate cones of the yellow carrot and white turnips
round the beef _à la mode_ or corned beef.
CHEESE FRITTERS.—Grate two ounces of cheese with two dessert-spoonfuls
of bread crumbs, a half tea-spoonful of dry mustard, a dessert-spoonful
of butter, a speck of cayenne, and the yolk of an egg; pound with a
potato-masher till smooth and well mixed, then proceed as for chicken
fritters.
AMBER PUDDING.—Two eggs, their weight in sugar, butter, flour, and the
juice and grated peel of one lemon. Beat the yolks, with the sugar,
lemon juice, and butter softened, till very light; sift in the flour
and grated peel, butter a small bowl or mould, pour the mixture in and
boil two hours.
BISQUE OF CLAMS.—For one pint and a half of soup take a dozen large
clams; stew them fifteen minutes in their own liquor, to which water
is added to make three gills. Boil three gills of milk; stir one
dessert-spoonful of butter and one of flour in a small saucepan till
they bubble; then pour the boiling milk quickly on them, stirring all
the while; stand it aside. Squeeze each clam with a lemon-squeezer, and
you will find little but an empty skin remains; strain the clams and
liquor to the thick white sauce already made, pressing as much juice
out as possible; then stir well, bring all to a boil, and remove from
the fire while you beat the yolk of an egg with two table-spoonfuls of
the soup; stir it to the rest and season to taste. Take care the soup
is boiling hot, yet does not boil after the egg is added, or it will
curdle.
SCALLOPED CLAMS.—Take a _small_ cup of the bisque of clams, before the
egg is added, and save it for the scallop. Scald ten or a dozen clams,
cut out the hard part, chop the rest fine. Butter tin scallop shells
or little saucers thickly, strew them with bread crumbs, put a layer
of clams with pepper, a layer of crumbs, and enough of the soup to
moisten them; then more clams, more pepper, and crumbs over the top,
and then a _thin_ covering of the soup, and bake a rich brown. Serve a
cut lemon with them. Be careful not to get too much soup on them,—they
should be moist, not wet, and be served very hot. Add a little salt if
the clams are not salt enough, but it is seldom necessary.
CAULIFLOWER OMELET.—Two eggs, a half cup of cold cauliflower with the
sauce; mash the cauliflower and sauce, beat the yolks of eggs with it,
then beat the whites till they will not slip from the dish, and stir
them gently in; add pepper and salt, and fry as any other omelet.
As Molly had given minute directions to Marta for frying omelet
already, she did not repeat them in her recipes. When Molly had made
the brown hash for breakfast, she had laid aside some of the nicest
slices of the cold _à la mode_ beef and the gravy for
BEEF AU GRATIN.—Put a layer of bread crumbs in a small dish, then a
layer of fat pork cut thin as a wafer, then a layer of beef, on which
strew a very little chopped onion and parsley, pepper and salt; then
another layer of the shaved pork, more beef, and cover the top with
bread crumbs; over all pour gravy enough to moisten it well, and bake
slowly one hour.
CUSTARD PIE.—Line the dish with light paste (Molly used what was
left after making the lemon pie,—puff paste will keep a week in
the ice-box), beat one egg, mix with a small cup of milk and one
table-spoonful of sugar, pour it into the pie, grate nutmeg over, and
bake in an oven that is very hot on the bottom.
CLEAR SOUP.—Three pounds of soup-meat, or a soup-bone weighing that;
gash the meat well and put to it three quarts of cold water and three
tea-spoonfuls of salt, half one of pepper, one small carrot, one
turnip, one large onion—each must weigh three ounces _after peeling_;
stick one clove in the onion, cut the vegetables, and when the meat has
slowly boiled two hours, add the vegetables and cook three hours more.
By _slow boiling_ is meant just an occasional bubble in the centre of
the pot. Skim just as the meat comes to the boil, then throw in half a
cup of cold water; take off the scum that will now rise rapidly, adding
a little cold water again when it begins to boil. Skim again after
the vegetables are in, and when done, strain. When cold, take off the
fat; don’t shake the soup, but pour through a clean cloth, all but the
sediment, which keep to make gravy. It must never boil fast, or it will
be cloudy and taste poor. There will be two quarts and a pint of fine,
clear soup, if the boiling has been so slow as to waste very little.
CHICKEN PIE.—Put the neck, gizzard, and feet, scalded, of a chicken
in nearly a pint of water with a small spoonful of salt and a slice
of onion and a piece of carrot as big as your thumb. Let them stew
_slowly_ till there is not more than a gill of liquid, which strain and
put aside; when cold it will be hard jelly. Lay in the bottom of a deep
oval dish that holds rather more than three quarts, about half a pound
of veal cutlet (or beefsteak if you prefer) finely chopped across, yet
not made into sausage-meat; sprinkle on it a scant salt-spoonful of
salt and a little pepper, shave nice sweet salt pork and put a thin
layer of that; then put in the chicken, neatly divided into small
joints, sprinkling each with a little salt and pepper, and always pile
toward the centre; when full add forcemeat balls made thus: Chop _very
finely_ a heaped tea-spoonful of parsley, rub a scant salt-spoonful of
thyme leaves to fine powder (this is easily done if they are put to
stand in a hot place a few minutes before rubbing, taking care they
do not burn), add to them a tea-cup of fine bread crumbs and just
one grate of nutmeg, the nutmeg drawn sharply _once_ up and down the
grater; chop into this a good tea-spoonful of butter, and wet all with
the yolk of an egg; now add a little salt and pepper, tasting to see
when there is enough; make into little round balls and drop into the
pie wherever there is a chink, and pour over all half a cup of water.
Now roll out some rough puff paste (made as for lemon pie), cut strips
half an inch thick and two broad, wet the edges of the dish and lay
this round lightly. If the chicken is packed in the shape of a dome
it will slope from the sides, and the paste can be pressed round the
_inside_ edge to make it adhere to the dish; wet it slightly, then roll
the paste for a cover half an inch thick; lay it on, press, with your
forefinger laid flat to form a groove between the chicken and the dish,
so that the inner edge of the under paste adheres to the upper one;
don’t press the _outer_ edge at all; trim round with a sharp knife,
make a good-sized hole in the centre and ornament with twisted paste,
or as you choose; brush all over with white of egg (not the edges, or
they will not rise) and bake an hour and a quarter in a good steady
oven. Before it is cold, pour the gravy made from giblets through the
hole in the top, using a funnel for the purpose. This pie is excellent
cold, but if made the day before using, when made hot it will take
quite half an hour to heat through. Lay a paper over to protect the
crust.
CHAPTER XI.
WHAT TO DO WITH A SOUP-BONE.
“I DON’T think there is any more painful fact connected with a small
income than one’s inability to do anything for the distress one hears
of,” said Harry as he chipped an egg at breakfast on Sunday morning.
“I feel that too, very keenly; but are you thinking of any special
instance?”
“Yes, a poor fellow was killed a few weeks ago on the track here, and
he left a delicate wife and three little children. They were taking up
a collection in the cars for her yesterday. I contributed my mite, of
course; but what are a few dollars in a case like that? They say he had
been out of work for weeks before he got the employment that led to his
death, and that if some more permanent help does not reach them, they
will be near starvation this winter.”
“Oh, surely not, certainly not, if people only know of the distress;
each one will do a little, and so very little will keep hunger from
them,” said Molly confidently.
“Well, I hope so, but unfortunately times are very hard, and these
people are strangers, while all Greenfield charity is needed for the
well-known poor.”
“Well, I believe in each one doing the duty that lies before him
without waiting to see if others do theirs. We are strangers here, too;
so perhaps we have the best right to help those like ourselves.”
“But, my dear Molly,” expostulated Harry, “we can but just meet our own
expenses.”
“I know, but if there is any real need we _must_ do our part; not as
I should like to do it, for to a needy family I would _like_ to give
beefsteak and comforts as well as necessities, but that we can’t do.
What we can we will. Can we spare a dollar a month, do you think, from
our twenty dollars margin?”
“Why, of course, if you say so.”
“I do, if necessary. I will see the woman and judge if the need is very
pressing, and then, perhaps, some of our neighbors will do something.”
“You’re a brick, Molly, my dear, but what you may be thinking of I
don’t know.”
“If the necessity is great I can do something; if it is not, the woman
may despise what I _can_ do.”
No more was said, but next morning, on her way back from the depot,
after seeing Harry off, she went to a row of tiny tenements, built on
the street through which the railroad passed, evidently the homes of
the very poor, and in one of which she was told Mrs. Gibbs was to be
found.
In the very poorest of the very poor little group, she found the widow
and her fatherless children, the oldest only five, the youngest not
six weeks old. The mother looked so frail and white that Molly’s heart
ached to think that what _she_ could do was hardly the sort of help
this poor soul needed. Surely beef tea, and milk and eggs, and every
nourishing thing was required to build up that fragile frame. And
all she would be sure of giving was bread and occasionally, perhaps,
a savory meal. How she wished she knew more people whom she might
influence for the right kind of help!
She talked to Mrs. Gibbs, and learned that her poor husband had been in
work only a fortnight, after being months idle from sickness, when the
accident happened, and that the baby was only three days old when its
father died.
“At first every one was good; they came and helped me and did a great
deal; but there are so many needing help. I could not expect it all to
be given to me, and I did think I might get a little sewing when I was
out of bed, but I have no machine, and so I can only earn a few cents a
week. What I should have done I don’t know, if a kind gentleman hadn’t
made a collection in his car for me, and brought me on Saturday $12,
which is owing for two months’ rent.”
“And you will have it _all_ to pay away?” cried Molly.
“Yes, ma’am, I must, but oh, I’m so thankful to have it. The dread of
losing the roof over us is worse than hunger or anything.”
“But surely you have not needed food?”
The tears came to the woman’s eyes.
“I’m never hungry, but the children are, and yet I think if I could get
good food for a week or two, I should get strong and could do work.”
“That food she must have,” thought Molly. “At all events, for a few
days she shall have half a pound of steak or a chop. I believe her.
That delicate look is semi-starvation.”
Molly bought at the butcher’s that morning one pound of the tender side
of the round steak. It cost sixteen cents, and she intended Mrs. Gibbs
to have one third for three days.
“Then when she has one nourishing solid meal a day she can make up on
other things, and the dollar we have squeezed out for her must be made
to go as far as possible.”
When Molly had made her clear soup on Saturday she had looked
regretfully at the couple of pounds of meat and vegetables that were
strained from it, wishing she knew to whom to give it, as her own
family was not large enough to need it, and hoping some one might
ask for food at the door. She had kept it, also about a cup of the
soup that was thick at the bottom (the richest part, although for
appearance’ sake it must not be used with _clear_ soup).
She had a use for it now: it would make a savory hash, not nourishing
enough for an invalid like Mrs. Gibbs to depend on, but good for her
children and herself, in addition to the steak.
Marta was busy washing; so, soon after eleven, Molly chopped the meat
and vegetables quite fine, added about a third the quantity of cold
mashed potato to it, a tea-spoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and a
table-spoonful of flour. This she moistened with a half cup of the soup
and seasoned it with pepper and salt. Then she greased a deep yellow
pie-plate, put the hash in it and set it in the oven.
Having some kind of hot bread every morning, Molly used but very little
bread. She had made a loaf on Saturday which was more than half left.
She must give that, and make a few quick rolls for their own dinner.
While the hash was getting brown she put a pint of flour to dry and
warm, and the third of a cake of compressed yeast to dissolve in a cup
of warm milk, into which, when well mixed, she stirred a table-spoonful
of butter till it got soft, and then the beaten yolk of an egg, two
tea-spoonfuls of sugar and one half of salt.
She made a hole in the flour, poured in the milk, etc., and stirred
them together, adding a little more warm milk till it was a thick
paste, too stiff for batter, yet not stiff enough for dough,—_just
as stiff as it would be stirred with a spoon_. She beat it for five
minutes, and then set it, covered with a cloth, in a warm place.
The hash was now quite brown; and, as Molly had no one to send to-day,
she put on her bonnet and took it and the bread and piece of steak to
Mrs. Gibbs, begging her to cook and eat the latter for herself.
“I will for baby’s sake. Thank you! Oh, thank you!”
At two o’clock the rolls Molly had set had risen to the top of the
bowl, which had been half full. She beat them down with a spoon
thoroughly, covered them again and put them to rise, and in an hour
they were again light. The dough was beaten down, a dozen gem-pans
were greased, and a scant table-spoonful of the paste put into each;
the paste was so thick and ropy that it was difficult to take up with
a spoon, and a floured knife helped the performance. There was a small
cupful left, and to this Molly put a tea-spoonful more sugar, and put
it into a small round tin pan, that had once evidently been a dipper;
this was for breakfast. They were all now put to rise, and in half an
hour they looked like little balloons rising out of the pans. They were
brushed lightly over with warm milk and put in the oven; the rolls took
fifteen minutes, the breakfast-cake twenty-five, to bake.
The chicken pie Molly had made for Sunday had only been half eaten,
as there had been three quarters of a pound of veal in it as well as
the chicken,—the drumsticks of which, by the way, she had reserved for
Monday morning’s breakfast, prepared in the following way:
The sinews were taken out, when the feet were cut off, in this way: the
yellow skin only was cut, the sinews were drawn out, the bones removed
and their places filled with a forcemeat made of veal chopped very
fine, with an equal proportion of salt pork. Molly had bought enough
veal on Saturday for dinner and the pie, and she took a very small
piece of that cooked in the latter, for her forcemeat, of which there
was needed only two scant table-spoonfuls altogether, and just enough
of the jelly to moisten it. She seasoned the forcemeat rather highly,
then filled the place of the removed bones with it, taking care not to
pack it too tight, sewed up the opening (having left a good piece of
the skin of the thigh on the legs when removing them), wrapped each in
a very thin slice of pork, tied them round, floured them, and baked
them in a sharp oven twenty-five minutes, and they were brown and crisp
when taken up.
To make the pie presentable for dinner at small expense she had ordered
a dozen large oysters; the oyster liquor was strained, a table-spoonful
of butter and half one of flour put in a saucepan, stirred till they
bubbled, then the cold pie, all but the pastry, added to it, with
part of the oyster liquor and the oysters. The pastry was cut into
neat pieces, and put into the oven to get hot, while Molly chopped a
table-spoonful of parsley very fine.
When the fricassee came to the boiling-point, it was carefully stirred
round and the parsley sprinkled in, and then the oysters were left
five minutes to plump. While doing this she directed Marta to prepare
a _fondue_, telling her to put a table-spoonful of butter and one of
flour in a small saucepan, stir them till they bubbled, and then to add
a gill of milk to them.
“That is really thick white sauce, you see, Marta; you will soon know
of how many things a good white sauce is the foundation. Stir to
prevent burning. Now add to it the two ounces of cheese I told you to
grate, and a level salt-spoonful of salt, and as much pepper as will
go on the end of the salt-spoon. Now you can take it off the fire, and
turn it into a bowl; beat the yolks of two eggs light, and stir them to
it. While you dish and dress the cabbage, and take up the potatoes and
fricassee, I will beat the whites of three eggs solid.”
Molly wanted to see if Marta remembered how the cabbage was dressed the
last time, and left her to it.
When the vegetables were ready the fricassee was taken up, the chicken
and veal laid in the centre of the dish, the oysters round it, and the
strips of pastry at the four corners.
Now the whites of eggs were stirred into the _fondue_ gently; it was
poured into a small buttered dish, which it only half filled, and was
put to bake while the first part of the dinner was eaten.
“This will be done as soon as it is golden brown, and you must bring it
to table _at once_, as it will fall if left standing.”
Molly meant to have dinners that were as little trouble as possible on
Monday, feeling that as it was washing day Marta should have less to
do; therefore the bill of fare was only
_Chicken and Oyster Fricassee._
_Cabbage._ _Potatoes._
_Fondue._ _Peaches and Cream._
She had also bought again a forequarter of lamb, so that she might see
how far Marta had profited by her instructions. She would vary the
cooking somewhat, but the cutting and arrangement of the joint would
be the same. She noted in her account-book that evening:
Lamb, $1.10
Cream, .10
Oysters, .15
Butter, 3 lbs., .75
Eggs, 2 dozen, .50
Peaches, 4 quarts, .20
———
Total, $2.80
She had learnt that the last week she had ordered too little butter and
needed three pounds instead of two.
CHAPTER XII.
MOLLY AND MRS. LENNOX ON THE RUFFLE QUESTION—FRICASSEE OF
MUTTON—CABBAGE AGAIN.
MARTA, unpromising as her appearance was, had shown considerable
aptitude for cooking, but about the house generally she was rather
hopeless. She had succeeded already in breaking two of the pretty
ornaments Molly had on her bureau, and therefore the latter had decided
to trust her to touch nothing that required careful handling. She was
hopelessly mixed, too, about laying the table. The breakfast was laid
as for dinner, and _vice versa_, and the result was that Molly did not
depend on her to do either, it being easier to do them herself. When
she had kept house a few years longer she learnt that to do things
herself was, in spite of the proverb, the way _not_ to get them done
well by any one else. But the trouble was so slight she did not think
it worth while to struggle against it.
She meant to have exactly the same dinner as last Tuesday, only she had
shoulder of lamb roasted instead of breast. She stood by while Marta
cut the shoulder out, and then read over the recipe for tomato soup,
and lemon pie, pastry for which was left from the chicken pie made on
Saturday, and then left her to cook the dinner alone, while she went to
Mrs. Lennox according to her promise.
She found that lady busy ironing. She looked white and exhausted,
and yet there was a large pile of little clothes all trimmed by the
mother’s industrious fingers, and, alas, trimmed so much.
Yet who could not understand a mother’s desire to see her children
dressed prettily, when it cost only a few hours more time, a little
more fatigue to make them so? and how few are able to blend beauty
and strict simplicity, although when it is blended the result is more
charming than any dictate of fashion?
“Let me help you iron for an hour. We need not begin cooking just yet,
if you saved the mutton broth, as there is no gravy to make.”
“Yes, I saved it, but you mustn’t think of ironing,—please don’t.”
“I’d like it. I am not expert, but every little helps, and your
instruction will do me good. Let me go on with that ruffle, while you
get something I can’t do. My Marta is ironing to-day, but by the look
of things I’m afraid I shall have to learn, myself, in order to teach
her, if she proves teachable.”
“Ironing I have learned to do pretty well from necessity. I only wish
I had been brought up to do everything, it would all have come so much
easier to me.”
“But it seems to me you can do so many things well,” said Molly. “You
sew so beautifully, and this ironing would shame most people who have
been brought up to do it.”
“Yes, I can do anything I make up my mind to do; so can most people, I
think.”
“Yes, and that is why if an educated woman is forced into unaccustomed
fields of work she does it better than those who are professedly
working-women,—better in every case where sinew is not the chief
desideratum.”
“Only,” rejoined Mrs. Lennox, “she works with brains and hands too,
and that is why the work tires her so much more than those who work
mechanically.”
“I suppose so. I am a strong young woman and have never known a day’s
sickness, yet I am tired to death after a couple of hours in the
kitchen, while Marta, who has been doing the hard work and has been
on her feet hours longer, is fresh, and has to go on working while
I can rest. Yet that thought makes me very tolerant of a servant’s
shortcomings, seeing my own limitations.”
Molly was busy ironing the ruffle of a child’s petticoat as she spoke,
and Mrs. Lennox said, partly in explanation perhaps: “I dare say you
think I’m foolish to trim my children’s clothes and make myself so
much work; but if you use cheap materials they look really quite mean
without it. Mr. Lennox constantly quotes the beauty of simplicity,
and points to the pictures of English children, as if I couldn’t
see the beauty as well as he. But simplicity is costly or dowdy. A
shilling calico or crossbar made ‘Kate Greenaway’ fashion would look
a poverty-stricken effort, while in linen or fine nainsook or India
muslin they are charming. Flimsy materials won’t hang well unless they
are trimmed; at the same time I do think I am wearing myself out for
the sake of appearance, and often resolve that I will never make or
iron another ruffle.”
Molly had no experience as a mother of a family to offer poor strenuous
Mrs. Lennox, whom she found a much brighter and more sensible woman
than she had at first supposed. Yet she felt that the ruffle question
was a very serious one.
“I hardly dare say anything about the matter, because I have so little
experience, but I do feel that you are not strong enough to do such
ironing as this; and yet, as you say, poor material plainly made looks
mean. How would it be to give up wash goods for every-day use and wear
dark blue flannel for a while? Even wealthy people do that at the
seaside, and one flannel frock will cost no more than the four calico
ones that take its place.”
“I have thought of it, and I do believe I will make an effort another
summer; but when you’ve so many children the frocks come down from
one to another, and the only one I have ever to get _new_ for is the
eldest, but next year I’ll get her a flannel frock and see how it
works; but though light flannel is really cool, she will fancy she’s
hot if she sees her sisters in cotton.”
“Now, if you’ll tell me where your cold meat is, I will show you how
the cold mutton may be made a very nice dish.”
The meat and broth were soon before her, and by her direction Mrs.
Lennox peeled and sliced two large onions and put them on to boil.
“What vegetables did you intend having?”
“I’ve been so busy ironing that I did not think of anything but
potatoes, though Mr. Lennox does like a second one.”
“I see you have cabbage in the garden, and corn.”
“Yes, but the corn is too old, and the cabbage there is no time for;
besides, we have it so seldom, because I have to cook it in the morning
so that the terrible smell may be out of the house before Mr. Lennox
comes home, he is so fastidious; though, I must say, the smell of
cabbage is something any one not fastidious might object to.”
“How long do you boil it?”
“Oh, two hours, sometimes more.”
“Do you mind my boiling it to-night?”
Mrs. Lennox stared. She had some confidence in Molly, yet cabbage for
dinner—and it was now after five—was something absurd.
“But it won’t be done.”
“Oh yes, I see the kettle is full and boils. I am quite sure you
won’t believe me unless I show you; but I do assure you there is no
unpleasant odor about, cabbage boiled as the English boil it, and in
Europe it is considered the most wholesome of vegetables.”
Mrs. Lennox listened politely.
“I will get a cabbage, of course.” She left the kitchen for the
purpose, and Molly smiled. She knew Mrs. Lennox was thinking what
others less polite had said to her, “but _we_ like our cabbage very
well done,” as if Molly must prefer it half raw.
Molly had cut from the bones of roast and boiled mutton quite a large
dish of meat, and the onions being tender she poured off the water from
them, put to them a table-spoonful of butter and one of flour, with
salt and pepper. As she was stirring them about, Mrs. Lennox brought
in the cabbage, and cutting away leaves and part of core as Molly
directed, laid it in water, and half filled a good-sized pot with
boiling water and set it on the range.
“For your six-o’clock dinner it must be well drained and go into that
water at half past five.”
“I obey unquestioningly, but I confess to strong doubts as to whether
we mean the same thing by boiled cabbage”—laughing.
“I know we don’t,” said Molly maliciously. “Will you look at this? I am
going to pour in a half pint of the broth, which I find you did flavor
with vegetables.”
“Yes, I’m not so ungrateful as to neglect your instructions, after the
success of our Saturday night’s dinner.” (It should be mentioned that
on Sunday Mrs. Lennox had come to tell Molly how good it was, and how
much enjoyed.) “There was some left, very little, and a little kidney
from yesterday’s breakfast; the children did not take any of that.
This morning I warmed both together with a very little of that broth,
and they made another good breakfast, and I felt that I had achieved
something.”
“That was a splendid idea; so few people think what two or three
odds and ends put together will do, though each may be so little as
to be almost worthless alone. Real economical management lies in
this _dovetailing_ one thing with another. This is what English and
Americans know so little, and the French so well.”
“I see that sauce is now like onion sauce, but less white.”
“It is onion sauce, made with broth instead of milk. Now we will lay
the meat in and leave it to steep in this sauce at the back of the
range, where it will keep at boiling-point but not boil. The last
thing, add a tea-spoonful of vinegar or a few capers.”
Now the cabbage.
“Yes, I’m waiting for that miracle,” said Mrs. Lennox, coming with it
in the colander, after shaking the water well out. “I shall lay the
blame on your shoulders if Mr. Lennox’s olfactories are offended; he
will forgive you anything, since through you we have lived better and
spent a dollar less in three days. There is nothing truer than that the
way to a man’s heart is through his stomach.”
“Then we must take that path,” said Molly merrily. “The cabbage needs a
table-spoonful of salt added to the water and a scant half tea-spoonful
of soda.”
“I shall wait and see the success of the cabbage,” added Molly,
laughing, when she had seen it boiling furiously, “although the meat is
done, so I may iron another piece or two.”
Both took up their irons, and after a few minutes Mrs. Lennox
exclaimed:—
“It is positively true!”
“What is?”
“That cabbage has no disagreeable smell.”
“No, but it would have if you left it on the stove to cook slowly for
an hour or two. It is the long _slow_ cooking in _little_ water that
ruins it and all green vegetables.”
Mrs. Lennox now prepared to lay the cloth, and when she returned to the
kitchen Molly had taken up the cabbage and pressed it. It was bright
pale green, streaked, where the heart was, with creamy white.
“Is that the cabbage? and is it done?”
“Try for yourself. You see it is far more tender than when slowly
boiled, and is marrowy as spinach.”
“So it is; but how did you find it out?”
“I didn’t. I was told by an English lady. I had noticed that all
English cooking-books gave twenty minutes to half an hour to boil
cabbage, while ours always say two hours. And I noticed, too, it
was never alluded to as a coarse, rank vegetable, and I asked an
explanation from her, and she also told me she dared not eat cabbage
here, for fear of indigestion; but I never yet found any one who
believed me when I told them cabbage should only be boiled twenty-five
minutes, nor can I induce them to try it. They all think that I prefer
half-raw cabbage. Now I leave you to dress it as you like, for I must
run home.”
“I shall just put pepper, salt, and butter on it, it looks so
pretty,—and to think there is only a pleasant odor!”
When Molly reached home she found Marta looking very scared.
“What is wrong?” asked Molly, sure that some disaster had occurred.
Marta silently pointed to the soup, which looked like pink curds
and whey; then, turning rather sulkily to the stewed tomatoes, she
evidently expected to be scolded.
Molly said nothing for the moment, but opened the oven and found the
shoulder of lamb beautifully brown, and other things doing well; she
was heartily glad there was something to praise.
“You’ve made a mistake with the soup, Marta; but everything else looks
very nice. That meat is done as well as I could do it. Now, in the
first place, you were in too great a hurry. The milk and tomato were
only to go together the last thing, but that hasn’t caused the milk to
curdle. You cannot have read your recipe over as you made it, and have
forgotten the soda?”
“No, I put the soda in.”
Molly felt she could not be speaking the truth, but when she tasted the
soup, found she was.
“Well, I don’t understand this. Tell me exactly how you did it.”
Marta rehearsed her movements and then it turned out she had put the
soda in _last_, _after_ the tomato, and of course it had curdled before
that. She explained this, told her to strain the soup, and then went to
prepare the table quickly, for Harry would be home in a minute.
On the whole, although the soup was a failure, Molly was satisfied
with Marta’s first unaided efforts. The lemon pie, in spite of her own
admonition to handle the paste very little, she had pressed with her
thumb round the edge, to make it _smooth_, no doubt. The consequence
was, the paste was nice and short, but bore no resemblance to puff
paste, either in appearance or in eating, but Molly had not expected
anything better, and reserved comments until the next time, when she
would again show her how to use pastry.
CHAPTER XIII.
PREPARING TO SAVE WORK—BROWN THICKENING—WHITE THICKENING—CARAMEL.
MOLLY had resolved to take the first opportunity to prepare two or
three articles for her storeroom which would simplify work for Marta,
and indeed she herself had felt the lack already of these very articles.
Brown thickening saves a great deal of standing over the fire and
stirring of butter and flour together, when it is ready, and if
thickening of soup or stew is intrusted to inexperienced hands, it
often results in something very different from what it should be, while
with ready-prepared thickening (_roux_, the French call it) a blunder
is less possible. The ironing being out of the way then on Wednesday,
she resolved to make that and several other things, or rather to
superintend while Marta carried out her orders.
“Marta, put half a pound of butter in a small saucepan or bowl to melt,
and while it is doing so, weigh and sift half a pound of flour. Skim
the butter; now pour it off carefully from the milk that has settled
at the bottom into another small thick saucepan, and stir it into the
flour. Keep on stirring till it is bright brown. Watch carefully that
it doesn’t burn; that is almost dark enough. In saying ‘bright brown’ I
mean a rich, pale golden brown, not dark like coffee. Now put it into
this little marmalade jar, and when it is cold lay a piece of paper on
the top and put it away for use. It will keep for months, and when I
tell you to thicken any brown gravy, use this for the purpose instead
of fresh butter and flour. The flavor is richer than any hastily made
thickening.
“Now we will make some white thickening. Wash out the saucepan, melt
the butter, half a pound, just in the same way. Now stir in it half a
pound of flour; keep on stirring as long as you can, before it begins
to change color. It must _not be at all brown_, yet the flour must be
well cooked. Therefore stir it in a cooler spot than the other. When
the flour no longer smells _raw_, put it into a small bowl. Cover as
you did the other and put it away. This is for white thickening, for
fricassee or to dress vegetables, etc.
“Now wash the saucepan again, and we will make some caramel for
coloring. Put in it a cup of sugar and a quarter cup of water. Let them
boil till the syrup begins to change color, then watch it carefully.
Tilt the saucepan from all sides so that it may get equally brown. The
moment it is all nearly black, but before it chars in the least, put
to it a cup of boiling water; take care of yourself, for it sputters a
good deal. Now let it boil till it is all dissolved and like very dark
syrup. A tea-spoonful of this, or less, will give a fine color to gravy
or soup if not dark enough in itself. It will also color icing for cake
or custard, and in fact is always very useful.”
CHAPTER XIV.
MARKETING—APPLE PUDDING—LIVER AND BACON—BRAISED BEEF—BOILING PUDDINGS.
WHEN Molly reached her butcher’s next morning, Wednesday, she was
surprised to find Mrs. Lennox there, and by the way she hastened to the
door to greet her it was evident she was waiting for her.
“I knew you would come here, and I am going to enlist under your
banner, so you must tell me what to buy and how to cook it.”
“Oh dear me!” cried Molly in consternation.
“Do you mind? I beg your pardon, I ought”—
“Oh, it is not that, but it’s such a responsibility. Suppose I advise
something you don’t like?”
“If you did it wouldn’t be very dreadful, but I don’t believe you will.
I only know we’ve enjoyed every meal since Saturday, and I’m nearly a
dollar in pocket.”
“If that is really so I shall have something to suggest in colder
weather. You see I know nothing of your tastes.”
“I believe we like a good many things we don’t have, but anything
outside of steak and chops will be a welcome change.”
“What do you say to liver and bacon, and, as it is so inexpensive, have
a nice apple pie or pudding with it. Do you like liver?”
“Yes, but Mr. Lennox protests I do not cook it right.”
“Suppose we take one—a lamb’s liver”—
“Lamb’s? I always get calf’s.”
“I think you will find this quite as nice and less expensive,—and I
believe I will take one myself. Harry used to anathematize the liver
at breakfast in the boarding-house so vigorously, for being cooked in
thick slices like steak and whitey-brown in color, that I think he will
enjoy it now.”
“I am afraid that is the way mine generally is. Now what shall I get
for to-morrow?”
“If you had not had mutton so lately, I would suggest Irish stew; but
what do you say to a pot-roast of beef,—or, to be finer, we will call
it ‘braised beef’?”
“My dear, we have nothing but mutton and beef, so an Irish stew will be
very good; and I certainly want to know how to make it well.”
“Still, I advise the small pot-roast to-morrow and an Irish stew later.”
“Very well, either will be good. Now what meat shall I get for it?”
“Three pounds of _thick_ flank—of beef.”
The butcher handed out a thin piece nearly all fat.
“No, no, that is not the part; have you not the flank with a broad
piece of lean running through it?” asked Molly.
The butcher now produced a piece of meat about four inches thick, three
of which were lean.
“That is it.”
It was ten cents a pound. By Molly’s direction Mrs. Lennox got also
half a pound of fat bacon, and her expenditure was:—
Lamb’s liver .10
Bacon .07
Beef .30
——
.47
“Now we have meat for two days, for about what I have always paid for
one.”
“And you’ll have something for breakfast, you’ll find.”
“The great thing will be the variation of our old routine, and the
money-saving; but can’t you just _tell_ me how they should be cooked,
instead of coming yourself?”
“Yes, I will write out the recipes and send Marta with them.”
“And the apple pudding.”
“Ah, yes, you have suet in the house? Well, make a crust exactly as
you did for the pot-pie; roll it out half an inch thick. Grease a bowl
well and lay the paste in it, letting what is to spare hang over the
sides; fill it with pared and cored apples cut small, and put over them
two table-spoonfuls of sugar and a little water. Wet the border of the
paste and gather up the overhanging sides, pinching them all together,
so that there is no chance for juice to escape. Then dip the centre of
a cloth in boiling water, flour it and put it over the pudding, tie it
firmly with string just under the flare of the bowl, so that it will
not slip up; bring the four corners of the cloth up over the top of the
pudding and tie them.
“Before you begin to make the pudding, set a pot, that is large enough
to boil it in, on the stove, half full of water; when it is fast
boiling, put the pudding in and let it boil up quickly again, and boil
for an hour and a half without stopping.”
“But I suppose the water must not cover over the top of it.”
“Oh, indeed, yes; so long as the water _boils_ there is no danger of
its getting into the pudding. As soon as it stops it begins to soak;
that is why so many boiled puddings are heavy and soggy.”
“Well, I never knew that. I knew they were often heavy, but not why. I
rather supposed it was because they were boiled in too much water, and
so it got into them.”
They had talked along the quiet village streets, until Molly’s door was
reached, and half an hour afterwards Marta ran across the road with the
two following recipes:—
POT-ROAST OR BRAISED BEEF.—Remove the skin and some of the fat from
the flank of beef (put both in the oven with half a pint of water to
“try out”), sprinkle the beef with two level tea-spoonfuls of salt and
half a salt-spoonful of pepper, a table-spoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, if you have it, and a scant tea-spoonful of thyme, also, if
you have it. Roll up the beef tightly with these flavorings inside,
flour the meat and put in a thick saucepan or pot with a wine-glass
of vinegar and two cloves. Cover very closely, and if the lid of the
saucepan does not fit well put a clean cloth over it. Let it so remain
till nearly browned, turning it about occasionally. Have ready a carrot
and half an onion sliced, and when the meat has been _slowly_ cooking
nearly two hours, put them to it with half a pint of boiling water and
a dessert-spoonful of Worcestershire or any nice table sauce, _if you
have it_, and simmer very slowly two hours longer; then take up the
meat, remove the strings, carefully skim all fat from the gravy which
pour over it.
In summer put a pint of young peas into the gravy; fried potatoes are
very good with this dish.
N. B. You will observe I have said with regard to some of the
flavorings “_if you have it_.” I mean by that they are not _necessary_,
but a great improvement; and, as they cost very little, if you want
plain dishes made savory it is economical to have them always in the
house.
LIVER AND BACON.—Wash the liver, dry it, cut it with a sharp knife into
slices the third of an inch thick. Dip each slice in flour. Cut some
bacon in thin slices, remove the rind and fry it crisp but don’t burn
it; then lay in the liver, only enough to cover the bottom of the pan;
when nicely brown turn each slice; brown the other side and take it up
on a hot dish with the bacon around it. Now if the fat is not burned
(and to prevent that, it should be fried where the fire is good but not
too fierce) stir into it a scant dessert-spoonful of flour, mashing
all the brown bits and lumps with the back of a spoon; when it is all
a _fine brown_, have a cup of boiling water ready, and pour it quickly
into the pan. Stir till smooth. Let it boil down till thick as good
cream, season with pepper and salt and a tea-spoonful of vinegar or
Worcestershire sauce, and pour it over the liver.
If by chance the fat was burned pour it out of the pan, for it would
make a _bitter_, _black_ gravy, and spoil the whole. Put into the pan a
dessert-spoonful of butter and one of flour, let them get _quite brown_
stirring the while, when proceed with water as before.
If you have ready-browned flour in the house it saves standing over the
fire waiting for it to brown in the fat or butter, and as you may like
to prepare some I send directions. Of course whitey-brown gravy is very
disagreeable.
BROWN FLOUR, for thickening gravy quickly. Sift half a pound of flour
into a dripping-pan and set it in a hot oven. Look at it occasionally
and stir it well, taking care it does not burn; when it is the color
of coffee that is half milk, or pale _café au lait_ color, take it out
and put it in a tin for use. You will require a third more of this to
thicken than of raw flour.
CHAPTER XV.
ROLLS—BAKED LIVER—CROQUETTES—WHAT WAS THE MATTER WITH THEM—HOTCH-POTCH.
MARTA had twice made bread very satisfactorily, and Molly thought she
might now show her how to make plain rolls; therefore she had told her
to save out a piece of her bread dough, about a pint bowl full, and
when she returned from taking the recipes to Mrs. Lennox, Molly was
ready to show her how to make them.
It was ten o’clock, and Molly reckoned they would be warm for dinner if
made now.
“These are going to be quite plain rolls; when you succeed in these we
will try finer ones. Get a good table-spoonful of butter,—lard would
do, but I use it as little as possible for health’s sake—put it near
the fire to warm a very little; add to the dough two tea-spoonfuls
of sugar; now the butter is pliable, work it in; it will take five
minutes’ constant kneading to make the butter and dough quite smooth.
Now you see it is softer than bread dough; if a crisp crust is wanted,
work in gradually a little more flour, almost a table-spoonful,—if the
weather is cold have it warm; if a soft crust is preferred leave it as
it is. Put the dough to rise in a warm place behind the stove, but not
too hot, or it may sour; in from two to three hours it will have risen
again very light; work it over thoroughly for three or four minutes
till it is again as small as now, and set it to rise again, and when
light come and tell me.
“This evening we shall have bisque of oysters, baked liver, and
croquettes, and you can make a peach pudding by your recipe, but I want
you to use cold lamb for croquettes; I will prepare it before I go out
of the kitchen so that it will be ready whenever you are, and remember
if you forget anything to come to me.”
Molly cut the meat from the cold shoulder of lamb, removed every bit of
skin and gristle, and then chopped it very fine; she had not left that
to Marta because she might not be careful enough. She also flavored the
meat by using a bit of onion as large as a dime chopped till as fine
as sand, and a tea-spoonful of parsley, also chopped fine, and a pinch
of thyme; these were mixed with the lamb, and Marta was told to do the
rest as if making croquettes of chicken.
Molly intended asking her friend, Mrs. Welles, to come and stay a week
with her soon, and as that would entail a little extra expense, she
meant to economize somewhat for a week or two; therefore she omitted
some little items from her bill of fare, and substituted others that
would be cheaper. This interfered very slightly with her plan of
letting Marta do alone nearly all that she herself had done the last
week.
The girl would be able to make croquettes with one meat as easily as
another, and although for the sake of practice she meant to repeat the
dishes, she did not care to have them in the same order. The bisque
of oysters she would have in place of clams for the sake of variety
and of showing Marta that the principle was the same in both, and that
another time she might substitute lobster instead of either, and yet
the process would not change. Another thing she had in mind was that as
the breast of lamb she had for Thursday would be a rather slim dinner,
the oyster patties, of which Harry was extravagantly fond, would make
up.
Soon after one o’clock Marta came to say that the rolls had risen, been
worked down, and were now light enough, she thought, to _push_ down.
When she went into the kitchen she found the dough just about as light
as bread should be.
“No, Marta, this is not light enough. Rolls should rise a great deal
lighter than bread. They will need to rise another half hour—but as
I see the oysters are here, I will use some of them for patties for
to-morrow’s dinner.”
Molly took a third of the pint of oysters, and then half a gill of the
liquid, and scalded both for a minute; then, taking out the oysters,
added an equal quantity of milk to the liquor, and in another small
saucepan put two tea-spoonfuls of butter, the same of flour; and,
stirring them together till they bubbled, she poured milk and oyster
liquid to them, stirring till they were quite smooth. She seasoned this
sauce and then dropped the oysters, each one cut in four, into it. She
did not mean to use them to-day, but the oysters kept raw would not be
good; cooked in this way they would be as good as when fresh.
The rolls being now light Molly stuck her fingers two or three times
downward into the light mass, and it sank under them.
“This is what you are to do, Marta, when I tell you to ‘push the rolls
down;’ do this twice or three times after they have been _twice_
thoroughly worked over—take notice, only lightly stick your fingers in,
to let out air; don’t knead them at all, nor try to make them smooth;
leave them just so; they come up again very rapidly after the first
time, and this is the secret of having rolls of a close, exceedingly
light texture, that will have no doughy inside.”
An hour later the rolls had risen and been pushed down three times, and
Molly, after working them all over again, took a little piece of butter
on her hand, broke off bits of the dough as big as an English walnut,
and rolled them between her buttered palms, and then dropped each on to
a greased tin two inches apart. They were set to rise till they would
be like small balloons—each quite double the size it was when first
made. They would perhaps take three quarters of an hour to rise, but
Molly cautioned Marta that she could not go by time in bread-making,
for that differed so constantly; in summer it would be less, and in
winter more; the degree of heat in the kitchen would make the greatest
difference; also, some kinds of flour rose more quickly than others.
It must not be supposed Molly had forgotten Mrs. Gibbs; she had her and
her family in mind when she ordered the liver. The neck end of her lamb
this week she was going to make into a nourishing Scotch broth, and out
of the dollar, of which she had spent only fifteen cents as yet, she
bought ten pounds of rye flour and five of white.
This would provide bread for a month, and as the poor woman was yet so
weak, Molly meant to have it made at her own house for the present.
When the rolls were light enough to bake, they were brushed over with
white of egg. The chicken pie on Saturday, it will be remembered, had
only taken part of the white left from the forcemeat balls; the rest
was beaten with a tea-spoonful of water and set in the ice-box for just
such an occasion as this, and was now used to brush over the rolls.
While the rolls baked, Molly prepared the liver for the dinner, and
told Marta to make the Scotch hotch-potch for the Gibbs family.
“Cut the meat up in pieces; put it in a saucepan with two onions, half
a small cup of Scotch barley, a carrot and a turnip, a quart and pint
of water, and a tea-spoonful and a half of salt; in an hour shred up a
quarter of a cabbage and add it. Let it all simmer for two hours and a
half, or until the barley is very soft.”
Molly, while Marta was doing this, washed and dried the liver, cut
about a dozen strips of fat pork as thick as her little finger, and
with a narrow knife made many incisions through the liver and then
inserted the pork. When all was done she floured it, sprinkled a little
salt over it and it was ready for the oven.
When the liver was cooked—it took just half an hour in a hot oven—it
was taken up, put on a hot dish, and a half cup of boiling water poured
into it; round the pan was a great deal of thick glaze; this was all
rubbed off and dissolved in the gravy; a tea-spoonful of Worcestershire
sauce was added and a pinch of salt, and then the gravy was poured over
the liver.
The dish was a great success. Harry, without an idea that it had cost
but ten cents, cut it in slices a quarter of an inch thick, which,
where mottled with the pork and the rich brown gravy, gave quite an
air to the homely viand. The bisque of oysters Marta had managed very
nicely, and also the peach pudding, all but the foaming sauce, which
Molly had shown her how to make; it was a good sauce, but did not foam;
the only real fault was with the croquettes, which were like sausage
meat and not at all creamy. Molly made no comments at the time, knowing
that a much more experienced cook often made no better, but next
morning she meant to find out where the mistake was.
“Did you notice, Marta, that the croquettes last night were not quite
right?”
“Yes, they were harder, but I went exactly by the directions.”
“I want you to tell me just what you did, and then we will see where
the mistake came in. You managed everything else so nicely.”
Marta repeated the recipe correctly and Molly was puzzled.
“Are you sure you did just as you say?”
“Yes, ma’am.”
“Then show me how you measured half a pint.”
“Ah, there it is; you have really only a little more than a gill. Did
you measure like that yesterday?”
Marta confessed that she had, and the puzzle was solved, and more
understandable still when Molly saw what she called a table-spoonful
of flour; it was really near two, for she had used the large kitchen
basting-spoon, and used it heaped.
“Now, Marta, I want to tell you something. You are anxious to cook like
the man cook you once knew; that is, you want everything you do to
turn out always right, and they will only do that by your being very
exact about measuring and weighing. A tea-spoonful more or less seems
a trifle, and yet it will spoil many things. Remember, if you have a
recipe that calls for a table-spoonful, it means just that, if the
recipe is good for anything, and half a pint is exactly that measure
_full_, not partly full.
“Gouffé, the celebrated French cook, who wrote a remarkable book for
other cooks, was so particular that he explains exactly how much he
means by weight when he says ‘a pinch of salt,’ and he directs one to
weigh each carrot and turnip for soup till one’s eye is accustomed to
the sizes.”
CHAPTER XVI.
RYE BREAD—OYSTER PATTIES—KNUCKLE OF VEAL, À LA MAÎTRE D’HÔTEL—A SAVORY
DISH.
MOLLY knew the virtues of rye bread; and in perfection, as had she
eaten it once in her life, she had enjoyed it much,—it had been so
sweet, so light, and seemed to have the quality of never getting
stale. She knew that to some people rye bread represented a loaf that
cut like liver, that was sweet in flavor, but in wheaten bread would
have been called heavy; and to others it was a sour, dark bread, much
approved by Germans. But that rye bread need be neither of these she
knew well, but she had no recipe. Then she remembered Mrs. Merit and
her experience; perhaps she could help her with rye bread, as she was a
famous economist.
She therefore paid a visit to her neighbor, and after a respectable
amount of small talk broached her subject.
“Rye bread! laws yes—when my family was large we had it, because it
don’t cost more than half as much as wheat flour does, and it’s as
easy to make as mush. You just make a thick batter of one third white
flour, two thirds rye; stir into each quart two tea-spoonfuls of
baking-powder—and bake.”
This was a new recipe to Molly, and she meant to try it some day; but
for the Gibbs family, she was satisfied that a properly yeast-leavened
bread would be more wholesome, and she therefore resolved to see what
she could do. She had quite a library of cook-books, but rye bread
for general use did not seem to be in them. On thinking it over she
couldn’t see why rye bread should not be made in the same way as
white. Finally she went to work to make it exactly as white bread,
making a sponge with a pint of white flour and half a cake of yeast,
dissolved in a pint of warm water, a table-spoonful of sugar and two
tea-spoonfuls of salt. When this was as full of holes as honeycomb, she
put to it two pints of rye flour and used as much warm water as would
make all into a _soft_ dough. She kneaded it, but began to understand
why it was usually stirred, for it stuck to her hands like bird-lime,
and to use flour enough to free them would, she knew, spoil her bread.
She worked on, regardless of stickiness, and when it was mixed divided
the dough in three, put it in tins to rise, and when each was double
the first size, they were baked in a very moderate oven one hour.
When they were done Molly saw she had attained the secret of her
friend’s bread, for it was sweet, spongy, and with a tender crust. She
kept one loaf for her own use and sent the rest to Mrs. Gibbs, with
the remains of the liver made into savory collops, as follows: It was
chopped fine, and an equal quantity of bread crumbs added, a quarter
tea-spoonful of powdered marjoram, half one of thyme and pepper and
salt; to these were put a few scraps of cold fried bacon and a little
cold ham left from Wednesday morning’s breakfast, both chopped fine.
The mince was just moistened with broth (from boiling down lamb bones
with an onion), and a table-spoonful of flour stirred with it. Molly
then made it into three good-sized balls, put them into a small, deep
pan, poured in the rest of the broth, and put them to bake in the hot
oven for half an hour.
It may be thought Molly was taking great trouble for Mrs. Gibbs. She
knew that, and had she had it in her power to give money enough to be
of substantial service to a destitute family, would not have done it.
In this case, as with her husband’s income, she looked on her time as
money, since by it she could make a little money go far. A dollar given
to Mrs. Gibbs would have done little—bought bread for a week, perhaps,
and a meal or two besides; the liver sent round to her cold would have
been eaten so, and been miserable and insufficient for a dinner; the
neck of lamb the same; but by the time, not an hour after all, she had
double the value of what she could give, and the bread she would make
from the flour would last three times as long as baker’s bread. In
addition to this she went to the house where she bought her cream and
asked what they did with their skimmed milk, and was told they made
it into pot-cheese when they had much, but half the time they gave it
away; she then obtained a promise that they would give Mrs. Gibbs two
quarts a day if she sent for it. Being sure of milk, Molly felt that
the best thing she could do now was to buy ten pounds of corn meal
and send it to them for mush. This exhausted the dollar, and beyond
making the bread and sending an occasional meal, to be concocted out of
something that would not much enlarge her own expenses, she knew that
she could do nothing, but did not despair of interesting others.
Molly did not want to let her little lecture on croquettes grow cold
in Marta’s mind, and therefore meant to have them again very soon.
To that end she made a tour of the butcher-shops in Greenfield, of
which there were several, in order to find, if she could, a knuckle of
veal. This would kill two or three birds with one stone. Veal is not
plentiful in September, yet is sometimes in market, and for the knuckle
she knew she would have to pay very little, for in this country it is
looked upon as only good for stock, while in Europe it is very choice.
She was fortunate enough to get one; it was quite large, that is, the
meat was not cut too far down, and because of this extra size she
paid twenty cents for it instead of the usual fifteen cents. She also
bought a piece of salt pork (very sweet, which she could tell by the
pinkish fat) for twenty cents, and four lamb’s kidneys for breakfast
for five cents. So surprised was the Greenfield butcher at her wanting
them that at first he had seemed to think they were hardly worth a
price; evidently he did not know that they were quite a dainty in the
fashionable markets of New York, and as Harry would not eat beef
kidney, but was very fond of others, she made up her mind to have them
often.
The knuckle of veal was to be boiled the next day very gently, in just
water enough to cover it, for two hours, with a small turnip, a bay
leaf, and a carrot, an onion, and a bouquet of sweet herbs. The pork
was to be cooked in the same water, and served to eat with the veal,
which would have a rich parsley sauce poured over it, fried potatoes
and fried smelts.
Molly thought it a good plan to have fried fish, instead of soups, or
boiled fish, every day when the rest of the dinner was boiled.
From the veal there would be the stock for soup, and, as there would be
more meat than would be eaten, what was left would make croquettes. She
did not mean to have them for dinner so soon again, but for breakfast.
The practice for Marta was what she wanted.
Molly had some “rough puff paste” which she intended to use for the
oyster patties. She rolled it out half an inch thick, then with a
biscuit-cutter cut several rounds; these she put one on another three
deep, and on each pressed a smaller biscuit-cutter half way through.
She had cut twelve rounds of paste, which made four patties (three
rounds or layers to the patty), and each had a circle (cut with a small
cutter) on the top layer. These were put on a baking-tin and brushed
over with a feather dipped in white of egg, and put in the oven, which
was very hot, yet not likely to scorch. To try the heat Molly put in
her hand and began to count seconds; when she had counted twenty she
was forced to take out her hand, and knew the oven was right.
While she waited for them to bake, she proceeded to finish the oysters
for filling, first telling Marta to beat up the remaining white of egg
with a little water, and put it away for use.
The yolk was just what was needed for the oysters. She strained them
from the sauce, which she put on to boil; then when quite boiling and
smooth she dropped the oysters in (it will be remembered they had been
not more than scalded yesterday), and in about two minutes they were
firm, yet not shrunken. She took them from the fire and stirred in
the yolk of an egg, already whipped, with a tea-spoonful of the cold
sauce. They were thick before, but immediately became thicker as the
heat cooked the egg, and the sauce was now about the consistency of the
cream filling used for cream cakes or éclairs.
By this time the patties were baked. They were more than three inches
high, and after they had been out of the oven a short time, Molly
carefully removed the centre of the top layer marked out with the small
cutter, and laid it aside, for it was the cover of the patty; then with
a small coffee-spoon she scooped out the half-cooked paste from the
centre, and then replaced the top. They were now ready to be filled,
but as they would have to be made hot for dinner she did not fill
them, as the paste would be burnt up before the inside would be warm;
she therefore directed Marta to stand the oysters in boiling water a
few minutes before serving them, and keep them stirred, and to put
the patty-cases in the oven at the same time; let them get thoroughly
heated, and when both were hot, put the oyster filling in them with a
spoon. Molly gave these directions for the moral effect, but, having
strong suspicions that Marta would be unequal to such neat-handed work
and might cover the outside of the patties with the filling, saw to
that part herself before going to the table.
CHAPTER XVII.
MR. AND MRS. BISHOP BECOME MEMBERS OF A DRAMATIC CLUB—CROQUETTES OVER
AGAIN—WHERE THE MISTAKE LAY—WHITE SOUP.
HARRY and Molly had talked over the matter of the dramatic club, and
whether they could afford to join it. Molly was old enough, not being
a school-girl bride—did I ever mention that she was twenty-four?—and
had seen enough of the world to know that, although a woman’s ideal
of married life may be to sew in the evening, while her husband reads
to her, or, if he is weary, to read to him while he rests, a man very
often prefers something more exhilarating. Although Harry had never
seemed bored by a tête-a-tête evening, she remembered that he had
never yet been subjected to the long uninterrupted quiet of country
winter nights, and she wanted to run no risk of him finding their life
humdrum. He was not a reader in the true sense of the word,—that is
to say, he read for amusement’s sake. If the book he read was not to
his mind, he threw it aside, or fell asleep over it, and he was not
so fond of reading aloud as Molly could have wished. However, this
was one of the little disappointments most women, and some men, have
to put up with, and she was thankful there was nothing worse. It is
true that, finding Harry cared less for reading than herself, she had
devoted herself to chess, of which he was very fond, and their evenings
seldom passed without having the men out; but Harry was too much in
sympathy with his wife not to know that chess, to her, was a sort of
loving pleasure, and had often pretended disinclination; therefore the
prospect of a weekly social meeting and the many little entertainments
that would grow out of it was, for Harry’s sake, a pleasant one.
“What are the actual expenses?” she had asked.
“I don’t know, but from what Framley said, I imagine these are merely
nominal, outside the entertaining of the club, which falls to every
one’s share once in the season.”
“Yet as we are so limited in money matters, we can run no risks; what
would be nominal to people with double our income may be serious for
us. I think I had better wait and see Mrs. Framley.”
That lady called before Molly had been quite two weeks in Greenfield;
she was very handsomely dressed, but of rather formal manners, which
Molly came to know were natural to her, and rather a distress to
herself. After the usual chat of a morning call Mrs. Framley said:—
“I believe Mr. Framley spoke to Mr. Bishop about our reading-society.
Mr. and Mrs. Winfield were members, and as we limit the club to fifteen
couples we thought it would be very pleasant if you and Mr. Bishop
would take their places.”
Molly colored a little, hesitated, then said:—
“Will you please tell me the exact conditions and expenses?”
“Well, there are no particular conditions, except that no member is
admitted that is not acceptable to all. Your names were proposed by Mr.
Winfield and warmly welcomed; the expenses are nominal.”
Molly smiled. She had braced herself to be quite frank.
“But what is nominal? I may as well tell you our income is little more
than sufficient for our needs, and we cannot risk incurring expense
that may be quite beyond us.”
“But there are several of our members who are in the same position,
and for that reason we made a few rules at the start so that our club
should not break up, as so many have done, on the rock of emulous
hospitality. The actual expenses have never exceeded $2 each person
for the winter, and have oftener been under a dollar and a half. This
is outside the cost of entertaining. Every member having a house is
supposed to have the meeting once in the season, and as all our members
are householders, and some very hospitable, when anything occurs to
make such reception inconvenient it is gladly taken by some one else;
but as some are much wealthier than others, a rule was made that no
ice-cream, oysters or bought cakes were to be allowed, only sandwiches,
tea, coffee and home-made cake, and I am glad to say one lady, one of
the most wealthy, has nothing but home-made wafers and coffee.”
“Then I think Mr. Bishop and myself can accept the membership with an
easy conscience, although I hardly see what acquisition I can be, for I
cannot act. I don’t know whether my husband has any talent that way.”
“I think you may have hidden your light,” said Mrs. Framley, politely,
“but at least half of the members are honorary and only give us the
pleasure of their presence; in fact, I myself am only an onlooker.”
“Then I will have courage. When is the next meeting?”
“Next Wednesday, at my house, and I am pleased to think your first
evening will be there.”
Molly thanked her, and soon after Mrs. Framley rose to go.
“I hope we shall see much of each other, Mrs. Bishop. Mrs. Winfield
told me we should have a great deal in common, being both devoted to
cooking-school.”
Molly responded suitably and Mrs. Framley left.
Molly had made some mixture for croquettes early in the morning, going
minutely over every detail with Marta, using cold veal with a slice
of the boiled pork, chopped together very fine, in place of chicken.
Some of the stock in which the veal was boiled, which was now a firm
jelly, was used, and as there was no cream, Molly used half a gill of
milk to the gill of stock, and an egg beaten; the milk and stock were
stirred to the butter and flour (see recipe for chicken croquettes) and
boiled till thick and smooth, the meat and seasoning then added, and
when it was all hot, the beaten egg. After this was in, the mixture was
only stirred one minute, and then taken off the fire, the object being
to bring the whole to boiling-point, but not to curdle the egg. The
mixture was put out on a dish and set to get cold and firm, and Marta
told to make it into croquettes according to her recipe.
As Molly was very anxious that Marta should thoroughly master the art
of making croquettes, she had intended to oversee the forming and
frying of these, which were for her lunch; but Mrs. Framley’s visit had
interfered, and when she went to the kitchen she found Marta had one
croquette on paper in the colander and was fishing in the hot fat with
her skimmer.
“What is the matter, Marta?” asked Molly, although she could guess what
had happened.
Marta pointed to the top of the fat, which was covered with crumbs of
meat, and lifted two empty shells of croquettes from it.
“I see what has happened, Marta, but don’t be discouraged. You have
some mixture left, and you must do this over again for breakfast
to-morrow. I can tell you the reason of this accident, and once we
know the cause of a failure, it can easily be set right. Had it not
been for that one perfect croquette I should have said that the fat
might not have been hot enough; that is a frequent cause of croquettes
bursting,—they have time to melt inside before the crust is formed, but
in this case the fault has been in the size. You must have made them
too large. Don’t you think that one, which is perfect, was smaller than
the others?”
“Yes, it was. I was afraid that one was too small.”
“It was just right, you see, and after this I think you’ll know.
Before you put that croquette mixture away, Marta, keep out a large
tea-spoonful, and after luncheon I will come and make some balls for
soup.”
The veal stock Molly had carefully skimmed and strained in the morning,
and intended to have a white soup for dinner. There was about a quart
of strong jelly. One pint she put aside. It was so valuable that she
did not mean to use a tea-spoonful more than necessary; the pint, with
half a pint of milk, would be all that was required for soup; but as
she had neither asparagus tops nor mushrooms nor celery to put in it,
and veal soup is apt to be a little insipid without, she decided on
forcemeat balls, made in the following way: To a large tea-spoonful
of croquette mixture she added one of finely chopped parsley, as much
thyme as would go on the end of a penknife, and a dessert-spoonful of
bread crumbs; she beat an egg, and used enough only to make the whole
into a soft paste; this she seasoned rather highly with pepper and
salt, and made into little balls not larger than marbles, and they were
set away till wanted.
As the soup was one Marta could not be expected to make, Molly went
into the kitchen herself, half an hour before dinner, to do it; indeed,
although she had left the cooking to Marta pretty much, she could not
risk Harry’s comfort by waiting for the dinner to straggle in as Marta
would have had it. This seemed her chief failing, an inability to see
the necessity of dishing up quickly. After she had cooked a thing well,
she ran the risk of spoiling it by her slowness in getting it on the
table. No mishap had yet occurred, because Molly was on hand to rescue;
but white sauce was left in the saucepan with risk of burning, and
vegetables, after they were dressed, the same; but Molly hoped that, in
a few weeks, seeing the importance she herself attached to time might
have its effect on Marta.
The pint of veal stock, flavored, it will be remembered, with the
vegetables boiled in it the day before, was put on to boil, and in a
small saucepan she put a table-spoonful of butter and a scant one of
flour, and stirred them together till they bubbled. She allowed them to
cook together _for a minute_, stirring all the time, and called Marta’s
attention to the fact.
“The white sauce you made last, Marta, although very smooth, had a
little raw taste; this was because you added the milk before the flour
was cooked sufficiently in the butter,—you put it in as soon as it
bubbled.”
“I was afraid it would burn.”
“Of course you must not let it do that, but you see, once it bubbles,
I draw the saucepan to a cooler part and stir till the flour is on the
point of changing color, then I quickly add the milk or broth. The
sauce will be an ivory white instead of the rather dead white that even
fairly good sauce often is.”
She poured the stock to the flour and butter and stirred till smooth,
and then added half a pint of milk,—“and, as I have no cream, Marta,
I kept the egg left from the forcemeat balls—I used very little of
it—to add to this soup the last thing, just as you do for the bisque of
clams.” While the soup was all coming again to the boiling-point at the
back of the range, Molly dropped the tiny forcemeat balls into boiling
water, let them simmer half a minute, then strained them out and added
them to the soup; then, with a caution to Marta not to let the egg
curdle, she went to add a few touches to her toilette before Harry came
home.
CHAPTER XVIII.
BROILED LAMB’S KIDNEYS—MRS. LENNOX STARTLED—CORN-BEEF HASH.
WHEN Molly had said Marta was to make croquettes for breakfast, she had
forgotten that she had kidneys in the house; but, remembering it before
she went to bed, she told Marta she would come down and broil them
herself, which she accordingly did, knowing kidneys are very easily
spoiled by bad cooking.
She split each kidney down the back, or thick side, but did not
sever the core or membrane, so that when opened they lay flat, but
still in one. Then she ran a long skewer through the centre bit of
fat and brought it out again, in such a manner that the kidney lay
open flat _under_ the skewer, which was attached to it only by that
stitch through the middle; then a second kidney was run on in the same
way till they were all threaded, the skewer lying across them all;
but nowhere did it pierce the flesh of the kidney. This arrangement
prevents the kidneys’ curling up in unsightly fashion and secures their
being equally cooked.
They were laid on a hot gridiron, and a dish and plates made very
hot to receive and serve them on; and while Molly cooked them, Marta
carried in breakfast, for kidneys are things that are spoiled by
waiting.
She turned them often for about four minutes. During the process she
had put in the little dish that was to receive them a piece of butter
the size of a butternut, a level salt-spoonful of salt, a little
pepper, and a tea-spoonful of Worcestershire sauce. When the kidneys
were done they were removed from the skewer, and each well rolled in
the hot butter and seasoning. They were just enough cooked in that
four minutes for the gravy to start when the fork pricked them; if
over-cooked they become tough.
“Kidneys!” cried Harry, as Molly removed the heated
vegetable-dish-cover she had used to send them unchilled to table.
“Dear Molly, where do you scare up these metropolitan dainties in the
wilds of Jersey?”
“Nothing so easy; actually, the butcher throws them in with his tallow,
and seemed surprised that I wanted them.”
“I’m afraid such ignorance can’t last,” said Harry “and when he
finds lamb’s kidneys are really very desirable, he will value them
accordingly.”
“No, not until he has customers who do; and I suspect, although the man
I buy from sells good meat, that he is not the fashionable butcher of
Greenfield.”
“They are cooked to a turn, Molly.”
“I am glad. I should have had them on toast in the orthodox way, but
knew you preferred fresh bread.”
In the afternoon Mrs. Lennox came with her work-basket to sew, while
she paid Molly a visit.
“I want to have a little talk with you, but can only spare the time if
I bring some darning with me, so you will excuse me.”
“I am glad, for I also have my sewing,” she said, and she colored a
little as she displayed a dainty little garment.
“I am so glad,” said Mrs. Lennox; and there was congratulation in the
tone, although she said no more. “You have done me so much good since
I have known you, Mrs. Bishop, that I feel I may trouble you a little
further about my affairs without exhausting your patience.”
“You certainly may, if I can do anything.”
“I must seem a perfect ignoramus to you, and yet I’m an old married
woman and you’re a young one; but the fact is, I was married directly
after I left school. I knew nothing of housekeeping, for my mother had
been such an invalid that we always boarded at that time. Mr. Lennox
was full of hope that he would rise to great things,—all young writers
are,—but, unluckily, the hard times of ’73 came, and the magazine of
which he was sub-editor, and which he hoped to edit, succumbed, and
ever since then he has been forced to plod on, at what insures us
bread. He has never dared to try for better things, and I know he frets
at seeing me so overworked, and has been telling me for years if I
would sew less, and cook more, I should be better; but first one must
‘know how’ to cook, and I don’t. There is one thing, however, I _do_
see now, that I never did before; and that is, that if I give my time
to preparing the food, I can save enough to get the sewing I cannot
do done for me. I never realized this before, but now I do. This is
Friday, and we have lived nicely—I mean we have had food we enjoyed,
and I have spent $2 less; and the sewing I should have done in the time
I have cooked would not have amounted to one full day’s work, which I
can get done for a dollar.”
“I am glad you see it so. I was sure of it, and I am sure that the
effort to do so much sewing and the housework, too, is far more wearing
than double the quantity of either alone would be.”
“Yes, because I dread to lose a minute, and the cooking always seemed
such a loss.”
“I wonder you have not thought it cheaper to keep a servant.”
Mrs. Lennox dropped her work in her lap, and looked at Molly in
astonishment.
“Cheaper! why, I should feel I was ruined at once.”
“Let us talk it over a bit, and see if my idea is right or yours. You
pay a woman to wash?”
“Yes, I spend $8 a month in getting help, a dollar a week for washing,
and the other dollar I divide between the heavy ironing and roughest
cleaning; the rest I do myself.”
“And the ironing that is left is quite a day’s work?”
“Well, it takes all my spare time on Tuesday; and I have been running
down so much lately, that I am afraid I cannot do it through next
summer.”
Molly looked at her. She did, indeed, look as if she were worn out. She
could understand that doing all the work for her family, washing, even,
included, was nothing extraordinary for some women; but for this one,
with her ambition to dress her children prettily, not to _look_ poor as
well as _be_ poor, her fastidious husband, and her bringing-up,—it was
an effort that was wearing her out.
“Now this is the way I reckon,” said Molly. “You can get a strong,
newly landed girl, for six or eight dollars a month. She may have
nothing but health and industry, although I have known girls as capable
as those who ask more, but more self-distrustful. Will not such a girl
do more to help you for $8 the month than you get now for that money?”
“Oh dear, yes. It seems to me if I had only some one to wash dishes
every day I should be easy; but you forget the food.”
“No, I do not; but, really, if you have time to give your own attention
to that, and you would have then, your food would cost less, even with
one extra to feed than now. It would not be so if you had to get an
extra large steak or chops each day for that one, but with the varied
cooking you could then practice, you would find it make only such
difference as you can easily make up in some other way; for instance,
you use baker’s bread; make it at home, and the difference in cost will
be more than your girl will eat of it; then, as all children like rye
bread, use it once or twice a week. You will make your expensive flour
go much farther. Then if rye is not liked, or they get tired, use one
week Indian and wheat bread, another, rice bread. I don’t think your
husband or children would consider these breads anything but a treat,
or know they came cheaper, and I should say nothing on that point till
you found out their real tastes. One thing I don’t want to advise; and
that is, the providing of any unpalatable or unwelcome food, be it ever
so wholesome or cheap. Food eaten without relish is _not_ wholesome;
and that is why, unless _time_ is given to cooking, the coarser parts
of meat are not economical, because they require careful cooking. A
hurried, slap-dash way of preparing any part of meat spoils it. Only
the finest steaks or chops are eatable, when so abused; but it requires
all their excellence to make them so.”
“I am taking in all you say. You have startled me wonderfully about the
girl; and the way you put it makes it seem as if it would be almost
cheaper.”
“It would be as cheap, and your health would be better. You may not be
lucky enough to meet with a good girl at first; but we all run that
risk, and I am sure of one thing: if you should give double the wages
you would be equally exposed to it, and I am in favor of taking girls
who have nothing to unlearn. I went on that plan with my Marta; and,
although she is not all I could wish, I don’t think I should have done
better by taking one who professed to know.”
“I don’t think you could; but she seems to me an exceptional girl.”
“Fortunately for me, she has a fondness for cooking, and seems
thoroughly respectable; but, if I had more work in my house, I should
not be able to keep her; so I am hoping you may be able to find one
equally good and a little quicker, if you resolve to make the trial.”
“I would like, but I am afraid. I have always heard that a servant
increases the expenses out of all proportion to what she eats.”
“Of course, if servants are left to themselves in their inexperience,
they waste far more than they consume; but you will oversee everything.”
“And then I shall get the reputation of being dreadfully stingy.”
“What matter? You might be wasteful, and still be called so by those
who wish to do it; but economy is not stint. I am sure you will never
look more keenly after odds and ends than I do.”
Mrs. Lennox looked incredulous.
“It is true. If there is _one_ potato left I have it put away; _one_
spoonful of rice, a fag end of beefsteak. Although I am new to keeping
house in this country, I am an old housekeeper; for my mother left
everything to me, and, our means being small, and she fastidious (by
which I mean only that she could do without anything, better than have
it second rate), I had to set my wits to work; and I’ve too often known
the time when _one_ potato was just the thing to finish, or make her a
little dish, to despise it.”
“But how?”
Molly laughed. “Impossible to say, for one never knows what may happen;
but I can tell you what it once did. My mother and I lived alone,
and so rarely had joints of meat that we seldom had much more than
enough in the house for our needs, in the way of fresh meats, but
potted dainties we always had. However, one wet, chilly evening, a
visitor arrived unexpectedly, an American traveling, and he had come
considerably out of his way to see us for a half an hour. I was at my
wits’ end, for our solitary maid had her holiday, and we were about to
sit down to a cozy cup of tea and toast, with some anchovy paste and a
little fruit. All we had in the house was a few slices of corned beef,
not presentable, for they had been cut off for tea the night before.
Now I knew our friend expected no dinner; and to give him as good a one
as a French cook could send up would be no treat, for he was leading
a hotel life. The only thing he would really enjoy would be some real
American dish. There was little time, for he had to catch a train in an
hour. I flew down-stairs in despair. I must have something hot to set
before him. I looked at the safe; there were about a cup of cold mush,
a solitary potato of good size, and a few half-dried scraps of corned
beef. I took them all into the kitchen, blessing the French charcoal
stoves, which are always ready, and, arranging the oven for baking, I
chopped my beef, then the potato, not too fine. When done there were a
cup of beef and rather less of potato. I put some beef-dripping into a
pan, and set it to get hot; and into a saucepan put the beef and potato
mixed, and a little salt and pepper, and stirred them round; and then
I added a small half cup of thick cream. While this was heating, I cut
the mush in slices, floured each, and when the dripping was smoking hot
I laid them in; I tasted the hash, and found it just right. There was
no time to brown it; but I left it long enough for the cream to dry
sufficiently away, while I beat the yolks of four eggs and the whites
to a stiff froth, then added to the yolks a little salt and three
table-spoonfuls of milk, stirred the whites to them gently, and then
took up the hash. The mush, which I had turned, was now pale brown;
and I laid it round the dish on which was the hash, then poured the
fat from the saucepan, put a bit of butter in it, and when it melted,
which, as the pan was already very hot, it did in a moment, I poured in
the eggs. Happily, the table was ready, and my mother always made tea
on it; so I waited only to split a few pickled gherkins to garnish the
hash, and then my omelet being half set I put it, pan and all, in the
oven, while I carried my Yankee dish to table. I had been absent only
twenty minutes; everything was ready, and, while the traveller’s tea
was being poured out, I ran down and doubled my omelet over and turned
it out. I am quite sure nothing short of canvas-back ducks, or New
England turkey and cranberry sauce, could have been such a success as
that hash.”
“‘Dear Mrs. Holmes,’ our friend said to my mother, ‘I assure you I have
dreamed of corned-beef hash and fried mush, and longed for them many
times when the table has been groaning with every French dainty, and
believed I could not hope to eat them on this side of the Atlantic.’
“Since that time I never think anything too small to save; it comes in
when least expected; and, had my cooked potato not been there, I could
have made no hash.”
CHAPTER XIX.
SUMMARY—LAMB’S HEART—FLOUNDERS—CORNED BEEF—CANNELON OF BEEF.
IT has been said that Molly was providing for visitors by economizing
slightly in her table. She was always economical, but it made some
difference whether the fish she bought was the inexpensive flounder,
made by the art of good cooking into the aristocratic _filet de sole_,
or what passes for such where veritable sole is not to be bought for
money, or a more expensive sort; whether she used veal instead of
chicken, or clams in place of oysters, and tomato or potato salad for
lettuce. On Saturday, after Sunday’s marketing was done, her account
stood thus:—
Monday—Sundries $2.80
Tuesday—Sweet corn and milk .10
Wednesday—Oysters .15
Liver .10
Knuckle of veal .20
Pork .20
Thursday—Kidneys .05
Yeast .02
Sweet corn .06
Friday—Beets .05
Corned beef .40
One flounder .12
Soup meat .15
Saturday—Steak .16
Chicken .50
Ice .40
Fuel .50
Milk .56
———
$6.52
This made the week’s expenditure 23 cents less than the last week.
It will be remembered that Monday’s dinner was formed, with the
addition of oysters, from what was left on Sunday; and therefore the
lamb bought on Monday did not come into use till Tuesday, when three
chops were used for breakfast, and the shoulder for the evening dinner.
Substituting, then, the lamb for the steak of the Tuesday before, and
on Wednesday using lamb’s liver in place of the roast breast which was
used on Thursday, the bills of fare were substantially the same as
those of the preceding week, until Friday, when stuffed lamb’s heart
for breakfast, and corned beef and flounders and beets for dinner, were
new items, as was also the steak for Saturday, in place of the cutlets.
Dessert and puddings of the first week were repeated.
Twice Molly had found in market green corn young enough for their
taste, and had bought half a dozen ears. The beets, also, were moderate
enough in price now to come within Molly’s purse. Needless to say,
all articles which were expensive, only because too early or too late
in season, had to be eschewed; but in autumn, in the country, where
vegetables are rarely so plentiful as in New York, the market needs
watching. One grocer may have a stray basket of string beans, quite
young, or a few dozen of sweet corn, long after they have disappeared
generally; and these are often quite cheap.
Molly had chosen a cheap part of corned beef—the plate—in preference to
the round, at double the price: properly boiled, she liked it better. A
small piece of four or five pounds of round of beef is very dry, even
if the careful boiling prevents its being hard; therefore she got four
pounds and a half at eight cents. She knew, from her cooking-school
experience, the New York price was seven cents; but she had learned
that most things were a little dearer in Greenfield. As she wrote down
the recipes for cooking the heart, the corned beef, the flounders, and
steak, I give them in that form.
LAMB’S HEART BAKED.—The heart, which came with the lamb’s liver,
instead of being cut up and fried in dry rings, as it is usually done,
was cleansed of blood, the gristle (or “deaf ear”) cut away, and a
veal stuffing made of a heaped table-spoonful of bread crumbs, a small
tea-spoonful of parsley chopped very fine, and a pinch, between thumb
and finger, of thyme, pepper and salt. Make this into a paste with
butter by working a piece the size of a walnut into it, then fill the
cavity in the heart with it; cut two thin slices of fat pork, wrap the
heart in them, flour it and put it in a hot oven, in a small dish. Bake
it twenty minutes, turning often so that it will be quite brown. Take
it up, pour into the dish a _very little_ boiling water or gravy (Molly
had some of her veal stock), season nicely; if water is used, add a
few drops of sauce or catsup; stir it well round the little dish to
remove dried gravy, then serve with the heart, which thus makes a very
appetizing dish.
The corned beef was washed, and, as the butcher had told Molly it was
only moderately salt, she did not soak it.
BOILED CORNED BEEF.—Although it was quite a small piece, Molly intended
it to come so very slowly to the boil that she had it put on the stove
in cold water at two o’clock. The water was only at the boiling-point
at three, and it was kept till six so slowly cooking that one had to
look carefully in order to see that there was any movement in the water
at all. At six it was taken up, and the bones drawn out, the rough
edges trimmed off, carrot and turnip cones set round it, and boiled
cabbage served with it. After dinner, it was put between two dishes,
and two heavy flatirons set on it, and it was allowed to get cold under
pressure, in order that it might cut in neat slices.
YOUNG BEETS BOILED.—The beets to be carefully washed, the roots _not
cut off_ at all, and the tops left an inch long; the idea is to prevent
the skin being broken in any way. Put them in boiling water, and, if
they are of average size, one hour will boil them tender. Try, without
a fork, by pressing in a cloth; then pour the water off, and peel and
slice them (or they can be left whole if preferred), and make the
following sauce: A dessert-spoonful of butter, a scant one of flour;
let them bubble one minute, put to them a scant half-pint of water;
let it boil, season with pepper and salt, and then put in a large
tea-spoonful more butter; stir till mixed, and add the juice of half a
lemon; put the beets in this sauce, and let all come to a gentle boil
together.
TO BONE FLOUNDERS, and prepare as _filet de sole_. Take a flounder
weighing as near two pounds as possible,—if too small they will make
poor filets,—have the head removed, lay it on the board before you, and
with a sharp knife make a cut right down the middle of the back, from
neck to tail, letting the knife touch the bone all the way; then run
the knife carefully between the flesh and the bones, working always
towards the edge or fin, and keeping close to the bone; you have now
detached one quarter of the flesh. Do the other side in the same way,
and when the side uppermost is thus entirely loose from the bone, turn
the fish over, and do the same with the other part. You will now find
you can remove the bone whole from the fish. You have now two halves of
the fish; cut away the fins, and you have four quarters of solid flesh,
or filets. Lay each one, skin downward, in front of you; hold the end
of the filet firmly, and with the knife cut the filet from the skin by
pressing the edge of the knife downward _on the skin_, which you hold
firmly with thumb and finger, and _pushing_, as it were, the flesh
up from it. You will find the skin and flesh will separate without
destroying the shape of the filet. Now bread them; have either a good
supply of bread crumbs dried in the oven and _sifted_, or cracker meal;
beat an egg with a table-spoonful of water, lay each filet in it, both
sides, then lift it out and lay it in the crumbs; turn it over that
both may be well covered, and press gently; then lay it aside, and do
the other three. Have enough fat in a deep pan to cover them; let it
get very hot, trying it with a bit of bread. If it brown _at once_, put
the filets in, two at a time; have brown paper ready, and lay them on
it when they are a fine golden brown, and serve on a hot dish.
STEWED CANNELON OF BEEF, OR ROLLED STEAK.—Take a piece of the upper
side of the round of beef, cut broad and thick. Make a veal stuffing in
the following way: A cup of fine bread crumbs, a scant table-spoonful
of finely chopped parsley, and a very scant tea-spoonful of thyme and
marjoram mixed (if any one objects to either of these herbs, leave
it out), a very little nutmeg, a half tea-spoonful of salt, and a
half salt-spoonful of pepper; chop or mix all together with a good
table-spoonful of butter; lay the steak on a board, and with a large
knife hack it _closely_ across and across, all over on one side only,
then along the centre of the hacked side lay the stuffing; roll the
meat over and fasten it with toothpicks to keep it, while you envelop
it in thin slices of fat pork, round which you wind twine. When neat
and compact, lay it in a saucepan with a pint of water, and a piece of
carrot and onion cut fine, a salt-spoonful of salt, and a tea-spoonful
of vinegar. Let this _simmer_ very gently for three hours, closely
covered, then take it up, lay it in a baking-pan, remove the strings
and toothpicks very carefully, dredge it all over very thinly with
flour, and set it in a very hot oven to brown quickly. If the saucepan
was kept closely covered, and the simmering slow, there will be at
least half a pint of thick, rich gravy in it; which strain, and skim
free from fat (a table-spoonful of cold water thrown in will make it
easier to skim). When the meat is brown, pour this gravy round it,
and serve. If the gravy should have dried away too much, a little
boiling water may be put into the saucepan, and well stirred, before
straining,—but a _little rich_ gravy is better than much and poor.
This dish Molly prepared herself, and it was a great success. Harry
pronounced it better than _filet de bœuf_.
“Yes, it is either a very good dish, or a wofully bad one,—hard and dry
and altogether unsatisfactory.”
But Molly knew it depended so entirely on great care, that the meat
should be hacked thoroughly, yet not anywhere cut through, and then
so very slowly simmered, so quickly browned, that she thought it one
of those dishes she would always have to cook herself. She was not
expecting too much from Marta. If she profited by her instructions
sufficiently to know the rules of cooking, and abide by them so far
that she might be trusted not to spoil a dish if left to watch it,
and be able to cook _a few things well_, so that she could do when
necessary unaided,—that was all Molly looked for.
CHAPTER XX.
PREPARING A CHICKEN—GIBLETS—SPOILT BREAD.
WHILE the beefsteak, on Saturday, was being converted into such a
savory dish, Molly, who wished to oversee the simmering, took that time
to prepare the chicken. The one used for the pie, last Sunday, she had
prepared, while Marta was busy elsewhere; this week she wanted to show
her how it was to be neatly done.
She had ordered the chicken (or rather, yearling fowl; for it weighed
over three pounds, and Molly was not paying the price of chicken in
September) to be sent home _with the feet on_, for two reasons: first,
because the butcher usually chops them off at the joint, or above it,
when they should be taken off just below, else when roasted the flesh
shrinks up, and they display an unsightly bare bone; and, secondly,
because the feet, properly prepared, are too valuable, for gravy, to
lose.
Molly began by picking over the bird to remove a few stray feathers;
then she took off the stove-lid, put some paper in the fire, and
quickly moved the bird over the flame, taking care not to blacken the
skin.
“Now, Marta, if you are ready, I want you to pay great attention,
because if you can clean a fowl you can also clean a duck, goose, or
turkey; the process is the same, and either, improperly done, though
you may remove everything that ought not to remain in it, will never
taste the same. If the entrails are broken, it imparts the odor of the
barnyard to the whole.
“You see I cut the neck off close to the body, leaving as little of
it on as I can; but, before beginning to cut, push the skin well down
toward the body, so that there will be plenty of skin to cover the
place where the neck has been. Cut off the feet just _below_ the joint;
then cut the skin at the back of the neck, an inch or so down, and with
your forefinger loosen the crop all round, and take it out without
breaking or emptying it. Next cut a slit right under the rump, large
enough to run two fingers in. If this were a goose or turkey, you would
need it large enough to admit your whole hand into the body. Before
attempting to draw out the entrails, loosen with your finger all the
tiny strings that attach them to the body. Be certain your fingers
can pass between the contents of the stomach and the body in _every_
direction without obstruction; then bend your hand or fingers round the
mass, and draw it forward; this will bring the whole out in a ball. Be
careful not to drag it by any particular part, or you will break the
entrails, and the whole process be an unclean one; or you may spoil
the fowl by breaking the gall, the bitter of which cannot be washed
away. Cut off the vent, which will free the main entrail. If properly
managed, the bird will be quite clean inside, and need only wiping with
a wet cloth; if not clean, pour lukewarm water through it.”
Molly worked while she talked, suiting the action to the word when
possible; and when the entrails of the fowl lay on the table, quite
unbroken, she showed Marta the clean inside.
“You see this needs washing neither inside nor out; and that is the
great object,—to prevent the contents of the entrails getting on the
bird; for if they do, to my mind, no amount of washing will cleanse it.”
“Now I lay the bird aside, and prepare the giblets, which make gravy.
You see this small, dark-green bladder attached to the liver? That is
the gall. I cut it off, but am careful to leave a bit of the liver
with it to avoid breaking. Put the liver in cold water. This hard,
silvery-blue lump is the gizzard; it must be freed from all skin and
strings; and by cutting it carefully on the _wide_ side, without
penetrating the inner skin, it can be peeled off, leaving the inside
whole, thus avoiding the usual mess. This outer flesh throw into the
water with the liver. Now for the feet.”
Molly put them in a quart bowl, and poured water from the kettle—which
she was careful to see was _actually boiling_—upon them, covering them
all over.
“Now, Marta, if you do this yourself, never attempt to scald with
water that is not boiling, however near the point it may be; and do
not put them in hot water and set them on the stove to come to the
boiling-point. Either of these methods will so _set_ the skin that it
will not come off without the flesh, while these, you see, will peel
easily enough.” She had taken, as she spoke, a clean cloth in one
hand, and with a fork lifted one of the feet out of the hot water,
then quickly rubbed the thin, yellow skin, which came off as readily
as the skin from a ripe, scalded tomato; then she bent back each nail
and that, too, came off, leaving the foot delicate, white, and clean.
The rest were done in the same way. “The only thing necessary is great
quickness; the skin gets ‘set’ as the water cools.
“You can put the fowl away now till to-morrow, Marta, but the giblets
I will put on to stew for gravy. Here are the feet, the heart, the
neck, gizzard, and liver, all well cleaned. They need a pint of water,
a slice of onion, a piece of carrot, as big as your thumb, cut in it,
half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a sprig of parsley. Now if I had not
these vegetables in the house, I should do without; but having them,
the gravy will be much better. Let these giblets stew down very slowly,
till only half remains; then strain, and you will find it is a solid
jelly, when cold.
“Ah, Marta, what is the matter with the bread? and how comes it so late
to-day?”
Marta was just taking from the oven the one loaf which formed the
tri-weekly baking, and at a glance Molly knew it was a failure. It was
a peculiar color,—a drab tone, instead of the bright, yellow brown it
should have been,—and it looked flat.
“That I don’t understand,” said Marta; “it seemed to-day as if it would
never rise.”
It must here be said that after Molly showed Marta bread-making, her
bread had been very good. She had made it three times so well that
Molly thought that part of her teaching was over. This was the fourth
time, and it was evidently a failure.
She thought of all she had heard from experienced housekeepers,—how
thankless a task it was to teach servants, for when they attain
perfection, they lack the ambition to keep to the mark; they “run
down,” as it were. For a moment Molly was appalled at the prospect
of working so hard and faithfully with Marta, if it was to end thus;
and then she remembered, if it should prove so in this case, it could
not be possible that some girl would not be wise enough to see the
advantage to herself of keeping up to a standard.
“Even if I have to change several times, at last I certainly shall
find one who repays me; then I shall have a year or two of peace and
comfort.”
But she did not make up her mind to the worst about Marta from this
failure. It had been gradually becoming clear to her that Marta had
some good qualities and many faults. Whether the qualities balanced the
faults was something she had seriously to consider when she had had
longer trial; and which would depend much on whether, once knowing a
thing thoroughly, she could be trusted to do it.
“Marta, nothing of this sort can happen without a cause; try to think
what it can be.” Molly studiously refrained from showing her vexation,
for she really wanted to find out whether Marta had erred through
carelessness or ignorance; and the only way to get at the facts was,
not to frighten her into deception by seeming angry.
“I cannot think, unless the yeast was not good; I was very careful.”
“Get me the rest of the cake of yeast.”
When she brought it, Molly broke it. It broke off short, and smelt
quite good; had it been stale it would have pulled like dough, or smelt
bad.
“No, the yeast is good, and in proof of it I must make something else
with it. But I think you must have put it in too hot water.” As she
spoke she had cut the loaf. “This looks just like bread made with
scalded yeast, or that had risen too slowly from having too little
yeast.”
“No, ma’am, I am sure the water was not too hot.”
“And it could not have been chilled when you set it to rise, I know.
Ah, there’s one thing, Marta! perhaps you forgot to stir the yeast
after you dropped it in the water, or did not do it sufficiently, and
it remained at the bottom and never went into the bread at all.”
This seemed the certain solution, if what Marta said about the water
was true; but the girl shook her head.
“No, I am sure I stirred it, and it all went into the flour.”
Molly looked at her,—could she be telling the truth? If she had not
known the bread had had long enough to rise, she would have thought it
had been put into the oven directly the dough was in the pan, without
being allowed to rise; but that she knew could not be, for she had seen
it rising, and wondered why it should be so late. She wished now she
had asked before it was baked; but Marta had been out of the way, and
when she returned to the kitchen the matter had slipped from her mind.
“I have told you to warm the flour. I suppose you didn’t make it very
hot.”
“No; I did everything just as you showed me.”
Molly said nothing. Marta must be untruthful; this was a more
unpleasant thing to discover than the failure of the bread.
“Well, we must have bread; it is four o’clock, and Saturday. I will
make a rye loaf, because it needs to rise only once after it is mixed,
and by seven o’clock it will be ready to bake.”
Molly measured the flour and set it to warm (she meant to make this
bread herself, because she was much quicker than Marta). As she poured
the hot water into the cold, to make the right temperature for the
yeast, a thought struck her;—she always dissolved the yeast in the tin
pint measure, and Marta did the same.
“Marta, after you put the yeast in the water, did you set it on the
stove?”
“Yes, ma’am, the water was a little cool, and I set it there to
dissolve; but I did not let it get a bit hot, and it was quite back of
the stove.”
“That is the mystery then!” Molly had remembered hearing a lady speak
of having done the same thing herself; and though it was back of the
stove, and the water could not get hotter, the yeast, being at the
bottom in contact with the hot iron, had baked or scalded. Of one
thing she was very glad; Marta had immediately owned the fact, and the
failure had not come from her neglect of any of the rules Molly had
laid down,—only from not understanding cause and effect.
CHAPTER XXI.
TO MAKE A FOWL TENDER AS SPRING-CHICKEN.
AS I have said, the fowl was a yearling, and Molly meant to try with
it an experiment she had seen practiced in France, by which fowls,
not quite young, were made very tender, without being converted into
fricassee or pot-pie. On Sunday morning, before going to church, she
had taken a large sheet of soft paper, and, after twisting the wings
over on the back, and forcing the legs up against the body snugly,
securing them there with skewer and twine, and fastening the skin of
the neck neatly on the back with a toothpick, she seasoned it and
wrapped it entirely in the paper, which was large enough to cover it
twice. She then tied it up with twine.
“Marta, put this chicken in the oven at half past eleven; that is, half
an hour earlier than if it were a young chicken. Let the oven be hot,
and, at a quarter past twelve, remove the paper. Take care to let all
the grease that may be in it run into the pan; flour the fowl a little,
and set it back in the oven and roast it. Take care to turn it often,
and let it get well browned; when you take it up, remove skewer and
string, pour the gravy from the giblets, with the liver and gizzard
chopped very fine, into the dripping-pan; set it over the stove,
season, and, if it should not look a nice rich brown, put about two
drops of caramel in it. Send the gravy to table in a sauce-boat.”
Marta promised to follow directions carefully, and Molly left the
kitchen; and then, remembering a mistake Marta might make, hastened
back.
“I told you _to flour it_, but I mean only to shake a very little over
it from the dredger; if it is at all thick there will be a white, pasty
coating on the outside, instead of a crisp, brown one.”
After church Molly went to the kitchen to see if everything was going
right, and saw on the table a cupful of pretty yellow balls. “What are
these?” she asked, taking one up, but found it collapsed between her
fingers. It was simply a wind ball, and the outside as thin as paper.
“They are German noodles for soup,” said Marta, her face beaming with
pride.
“They are very pretty; and, though I know several sorts of noodles, I
have never seen these.”
At dinner the clear soup, with the addition of Marta’s noodles, was
excellent, and she found that steaming the fowl in paper, before
baking, agreed just as well with the American bird as a French one; the
limbs fell from under the knife, as Harry carved, and the oft despised
yearling might have rivalled the youngest and juiciest spring chicken.
CHAPTER XXII.
DOLLARS AND CENTS.
MOLLY reached the end of her first month’s housekeeping, and now could
see exactly where she stood, and could plan for the coming month to
advantage. Referring to her note-book, she found she had spent 53 cents
less the second week than the first, 75 cents less the third, and 60
cents less the fourth. She had, therefore, in hand nearly $2, and
provisions in the house for a couple of days. She had also salad-oil,
olives, Worcestershire sauce, cooking-wine, pepper, salt, mustard,
corn meal, and vinegar, to last a month at least. There was also over
a pound of coffee left; and she would need only three pounds of lard
in place of five, as there was nearly half left, and two instead of
four pounds of coffee. She had, therefore, that much to deduct from
her second month’s grocery bill, and several additions to make to it,
for she had so far done without many articles she liked to have in the
house; she found, too, that the twelve pounds of sugar she had allowed
must be increased to fifteen, twelve granulated, three cut loaf.
Her order for the grocer stood for the second month thus:—
Three pounds loaf sugar $0.30
Twelve pounds granulated sugar .96
Flour 1.00
Kerosene 1.00
Potatoes .40
Lard .36
Coffee .60
Tea .75
Soap .25
Toilet soap .10
Starch .08
Cracker meal .15
Cheese .18
Capers (small bottle) .30
Two pounds of currants .20
One pound of Valencia raisins .14
One pound of Sultana raisins .18
One half pound of citron .15
One half pound of shelled almonds .23
Gelatine .18
Hominy .10
Extract of vanilla .25
Alcohol .10
Extract of rose .10
Oil bitter almonds .10
Pickled gherkins .35
Two cans of peas (American) .30
Graham flour .16
Lemons .20
Carrots, turnips, onions .40
Apples .40
Parsley .05