We found Valparaiso very much improved since our first visit, more so,
in fact, than would be generally believed for a Creole town. Streets had
been newly paved and extended, whole squares of fine warehouses, and
long rows of dwellings completed; all tending, with a rapid increase of
population, to make the port most flourishing. As in the Islands and
Callao, the discovery of the El Dorado of California had thrown the
entire community into a state of feverish excitement, which was
augmented by every fresh arrival. Ships touching here, no matter whither
bound, or for what intent, were either bought before their anchors were
down, or chartered for passengers or freight. Day by day vessels sailed,
loaded high up the shrouds with any articles of merchandise that could
hastily be thrown on board. The city was drained of wares and goods of
every description; merchants, clerks, artisans and mechanics were
hurrying, as fast as sails could bear them, to the swamps and sands of
the Sacramento. Fortunes were made in a minute, and it only appeared
necessary to purchase a ship and cargo at any price, and the day or hour
after be offered twice the money for the bargain. One merchant actually
paid twenty thousand hard dollars for the information contained in a
letter from San Francisco--a more valuable missive was probably never
penned. The mania was equally violent throughout all classes of the
community--natives, foreigners, men, women, and children.
We mariners were merely lookers on, having neither cash nor commodities.
Some of us talked of deserting, and scratching a little fortune of gold
dust with our several digits; others of resigning, and seeking employ in
the merchant service; but in the end we bore the good fortune of mankind
around us, with philosophical equanimity, and remained contented with
our lot.
Notwithstanding this _auri sacra fames_, the same generous hospitality
awaited us, at the hands of our countrymen, as of old, and we passed the
time delightfully.
The rides around Valparaiso are almost destitute of interest; for many
leagues the main roads lead over dry and hilly ground, with no relief
from their dullness, except an occasional glimpse from some more
elevated ridge, of the broad Pacific or the shining snow-capped
Cordilleras far in the interior. There are neither forests nor grasses,
nor yet running water. Even in the most secluded valleys, the herbage is
pale and withered, and vegetation stunted.
Excellent horses are easily found; and after passing over the paved
streets at a slow gait, to escape lynx-eyed _serenos_, ever on the watch
to recover a two-dollar fine from strangers for fast riding, you may
then, at early morn, before the breeze stirs the fine, choking dust, or
in the evening, when the high winds have expended their rage over the
Plaiancha and Point of Angels, take a lively gallop with some degree of
enjoyment. Our rides were usually along the Santiago road towards the
post-house, where a nice breakfast was always procurable, through the
kindness of a motherly Yorkshire dame, whose husband was at all times
particularly vinous; the breakfast, however, never suffered on that
score.
The Chilians, men and women, ride admirably; but there are none who
indulge in this healthful exercise to a greater extent, and who sit the
horse more gracefully and securely than our own fair countrywomen
residing in Valparaiso; and with all their manifold charms, they are
accomplished in the proper understanding of a pic-nic. I am ignorant of
the correct etymology of the word, but have heard it expounded as "all
ham, and no punch;" be this as it may, these agreeable ladies comprehend
the thing thoroughly; they know the most sequestered little glens for
leagues around, when and where, and how to go; they have their own
spirited steeds, too, like their mistress's riding robes, always ready.
The excursion is arranged in five minutes, so, cavaliers, you have only
to send for horses and borrow a whip, and if you know of any troupe of
more charming donas, pray don't keep it a secret.
Out of the hot city, with veiled faces--up ravines and down dales--leave
the dusty road--clear the hedges, and scamper over the upland downs,
until we have lost sight of towns, suburbs, shipping, and harbor;
perhaps a pair of bright eyes looks back to the nice matrons who play
propriety--pointing with a little gauntleted hand--"There! in that shady
glade, this side the Rancho"--winding about the declivities, we reach
the base of a sheltered valley--we dismount, tie the animals, and then
breaking through interlaced thickets of undergrowth and herbage, a
little trickling rill will possibly be found, bubbling deep down the
cleft of a ravine, on whose margin is a plot of grass, where we clear
away the brushwood, spread saddle-cloths for the ladies, and make
ourselves happy.
Some one must go to the neighboring farm-house in search of fruit--not
everybody, for there are two country belles there, who keep a guitar,
and put on airs of rustic coquetry--besides, it is not complimentary to
the lovely ladies we attend, to be gallivanting or straying
elsewhere--they demand, by laws of chivalry, our homage, and they well
deserve it. By and by, there appears a brown dame, with a huge tray of
biscuits, peaches, "and a dish of ripe strawberries, all smothered in
cream!" What a perfume! "Hand over the _alforgas_, those pockets
attached to saddle housings. Oblige me, sir, by guarding this plethoric
napkin of sandwiches! Stop! here's another; don't let anybody take even
a bite until the Senora gives the word! What is this; a bottle of Xeres,
as I'm a sinner--claret, too! _Ave Maria!_ Get water somebody, and let
me show you the art, acquired by long practice, of pulling a cork
without a screw. There! click! click! crack! Cleverly done, eh? Don't
cut your delicate fingers, Senorita! Are we ready?--we are, and almost
frantic." The time flits on pleasure's wings--the shadows from the
crests of the surrounding heights are darkening the glen--the
strawberries and sandwiches are all gone, and the bottles are dying
marines.
"Come, girls," say the Senoras, "we must be in time for dinner.
Caballeros you will dine with us?--they never forget that--we shall
dance in the evening, but not too late--to-morrow is Sunday." Now hurrah
for the _carrera_--race. Be under no apprehensions, my friends, when you
see those slight forms, with streaming tresses and dresses, flying by
leap and bound over the narrow pathways, rocky descents and
water-courses!--have a care to your own horse, never mind your fair
companions--their sure-footed steeds would race blindfolded, and, I
doubt not, snap their legs short off, rather than injure the gentle
beings who so easily guide them! We soon reach the environs of the
city, and with horses all in a foam, pace sedately through the streets,
towards the terraced residences.
The society of natives and foreigners is quite distinct in Valparaiso,
and general re-unions only take place at the monthly Philharmonic balls.
Those we attended were very elegant and select assemblies, with a large
proportion of beautiful women: all danced with charming grace, and were
most becomingly attired with all the exquisite taste and refinement of
French fashions; and with a fine, brilliantly-lighted saloon, excellent
orchestra, the white fluttering dresses of the women, gayly contrasting
with the gleaming lace and bullion of hosts of officers from foreign
ships of war, it made altogether as inspiriting and magnificent a
display as can be found in any part of the world.
The natives are seen with even more attractions in their social circles.
The _tertulia_ is ever an impromptu affair, and nothing is more
calculated to preserve a happy current of friendly feeling among the
youth of both sexes. There is no staid form or ceremony: people meet for
pleasure in the dance or love-making--'tis all the same--everything is
frank and companionable.
Once get the entree and make friends with the kind Senora--sip scalding
_mate_, and never forget her at supper at the balls, or _dulces_ for the
_ninas_--you have the game in your own hands, and on velvet with the
dear young _doncellas_, may whisper all the pretty speeches imaginable
to downcast eyes at the piano or guitar, or blushing cheeks in waltz or
polka! I do not believe Spanish girls often break their hearts--they
ache sometimes, perhaps, but are easily consoled--and I advise all who
set up graven images, and who wish to be in good repute with dark-eyed
Creole maidens, to send anonymous bouquets unceasingly, and of course
divulge the donors' names afterwards--'tis a sure passport to the smiles
of fair ladies everywhere, but these dear, little Chilians will
positively adore you.
In a former sketch of Valparaiso, I touched upon the quiet, cool
retreats perched on the salient crests of the adjacent hills. One of
these terraces, Monte Allegro, is the beauty-spot of Valparaiso. Ah! the
agreeable dinners, tea-parties, promenades and dances, given there by
the charming residents, from the little balconied house in the rear, to
the entire cottage-range in front! Heaven help us! we owe them many a
debt of gratitude we may never be able to repay, save in kindly
remembrance to all. There was one, too--
"Of all that sets young hearts romancing,
She was our queen--our rose--our star;
And when she danced--O! Heaven! her dancing!"--
Ah! Dona Pepe! I may never forgive the malicious delight you exhibited
at the Filharmonica, where the thin lady took a first lesson in the
polka--may Terpsichore and all the Graces of the light fantastic toe
befriend her!--but yet, although a few months have borne me thousands of
leagues away, I still preserve your little flower, and shall ever
remember our parting among the brightest of lingering things in
Valparaiso.
Aside from the lovely living attractions of this little _cielo_, it has
much else to recommend it. In the calm nights you can stand on its lofty
esplanade, towering above the heart of the city, and look down upon the
world below. The faces of the tops, with the steep sides of the
_quebradas_, are twinkling with myriads on myriads of bright
lights--long streets and avenues are seen coursing in the opposite
direction along the Almendral, dotted and sparkling with cab and lantern
hurrying to and fro, until far away, all is blended in one even line of
perspective; and perhaps there is seen a procession of flickering
torches winding up the Campo Santo, bearing some unconscious clay to a
last home; then, when the guns from forts and ships have ceased their
everlasting peals among the hills, music from different vessels of war
arises in delicious strains, clearly and distinctly, from the
port--while their black hulls, illumined sides, spars and rigging, are
reposing motionless, with mazy shadows mingling with the starry
reflections upon the polished surface of the bay from the blue vault
above. The whole scene is framed by the crowning heights circling around
the city, and the base is girdled by the glittering waters of the ocean.
I was never tired of musing over this bright and varied picture, or
inhaling the sweet perfume of the _florapondia_ blooming on the terrace.
It is a spot to which the innocent children, who now sport there in
unconscious gayety, will one day turn from all the toil and strife of
future years, and smother many a sigh for the joyful reminiscences of
their childhood.
Adieu to thee, Monte Allegro! May the dread earthquake never blanch the
cheeks of those who tread thy brow, or rend thy firm feet from their
foundation.