Lima is fast losing its singular originality, although there is still
much to be seen, which, in these days of universal journeyings, has the
merit of being extremely novel.
There are interminable strings of mules and donkeys constantly passing
and repassing to the bubbling fountains of plazas or churches, each with
twin reservoirs of water-barrels balanced on the brute's shoulders;
others with huge milk jugs, baker's boxes of hides, and the drivers in
the midst. Again, matronly dames jog along astride their cattle,
commonly nursing infants; then gilded _volantes_ and _berlinas_ whirl
by, occupied by _damas_ in full dress, looking as if entombed within
crystal shades; then priests in "cope and stole" in processions--white
and black gowned ones--tottering bishops in lawn and mitre, and very
shaky on their swollen ancles, with beads vibrating like uneasy
pendulums; others in stove-pipe hats, sleek, fat, and slovenly--or meek
friars--not of eggs and bacon, from their meagre, famished
appearance--lank and dirty, with robes of coarse serge and girdles of
ropes--all darkening the side walks, with flickering torch and taper
flaring in the mid-day sun, and solemn chaunt, as they move unceasingly
towards church or convent.
Then, again, stupid, stunted native Indians strut along with bow legs
and parrot step; beside them, stout negresses, zambos, and cholos, with
brief frocks, and the most gossamer of flesh-colored silk stockings
encasing their ebony shins; there are _portales_ thronged with shops and
stalls--artizans in gold and silver embroidery carrying on their
avocations, regardless of noise and bustle. Equestrians, too, are
caracolling through streets and squares, clothed in bright ponchos, and
their small, spirited steeds decked in shining trappings, with heavy
Gothic-shaped spurs, half the weight of the riders.
It is a curious scene to contemplate all this motley crowd, as the first
sweet tone of the great bell of the cathedral--and the sweetest sound
from brass and silver ever heard--gives forth its prolonged and
melancholy cadence for _oracion_. As if touched by the wand of a
magician, the busy hum of life is hushed--mules and donkeys halt of
their own accord, and with drooping ears and bended necks, appear
absorbed in prayer. The man who is yelling _Fresquita_! with all his
might, stops miraculously short at the half-uttered word in the highest
note--venders and the disciples of Abraham cease barter--horsemen draw
bridle--these gay _berlinas_ pause, and their fair inmates with jewelled
fingers tell their beads, and rosy lips arrest the dimpling
smiles--lovers silence the soft whispers to blushing _amantes_--the
whirr of loom and spindle weaving the golden threads is checked--hats
and heads are borne low, and every vestige of animation is
suspended--all is beautifully impressive. A minute! The _ave_ is
uttered--the heavy bell sounds twice--thrice--then the deafening and
rejoicing peals ring from towers far and near. Crack! falls the cruel
lash on the devout donkey's hide--_arre!_ shouts the arrieros--_quita!_
screams the dulce-man--_Tres pesos el menor!_ wheedles the Jew--off
glide the gilded vehicles--away gallop capering barbs--the artisans
resume the mazy windings of the reel or shuttle--the lover and his
mistress again become smiling and pathetic--and again goes on the roar
and turmoil of a populous town.
On the right bank of the Rimac are two promenades, neither particularly
well shaded, but the Alemeda nearest the river is most frequented and
pleasant.
During feast days, or after the Sunday bull-fights in the arena near at
hand, it is customary for the elite of Lima to appear in full dress,
enshrined within the glass panels of their pretty _berlinas_, and take a
stand along the drive, beneath the drooping willows. Nor is it
considered indecorous, if you have friends or acquaintances among those
lovely dames, to doff your castor and touch the tips of their ungloved,
rosy fingers, and may be, hear the number of their _palco_ at the
evening opera--or, where the _tertulia_ is given, and what a charming
bouquet it was you sent--and other agreeable pleasantries. Have a care,
my gringo! button your coat tight, or you may lose your heart!
On these occasions, also, the stone benches on either side the promenade
are thronged with _sayas y mantas_--the most bewitching satin envelope
that ever woman, be she youthful or aged, was ever wrapped in. There is
no resisting the large, brilliant, languishing eye--laughing with all
its might--nor the round, white arm, that so pertinaciously keeps the
jealous folds of the _manta_ over the face. Exhaust the whole Castilian
vocabulary of compliments--and it is copious--beseeching and imploring
to be vouchsafed one little word! _Ah Senorita! haceme el favor de una
palabrita!_--do speak one little word. But no! never a syllable from the
silent veil, while the roguish eye twinkles and laughs like a planet!
They may know you--but the sharpest duena that ever cheated or was
bribed by a lover could not detect her charge within these
closely-fitting dominoes--nor husband the wife, nor mother her
daughter--they are alike enshrouded in the same graceful but
impenetrable black masque. They are so cunning and coquettish, too!
Fancy you discover one. Strive to awaken her jealousy, or pique her
vanity by encomiums or scandal upon a sister or cousin--ten to one it
comes back to you in protean shapes from the one you least dreamed of.
Yet I cannot but think the institution was originally invented by ugly
women; and it appears, many of the fairest portions are of the same
opinion, being generally quite willing to exhibit their charms of face
as nature intended. Except on feast days, or in carnival, the dress is
now rarely worn; but in former years no woman appeared in street or mass
without the _saya y manta_. In those days, intrigue was so rife that a
prudent young bachelor was forced to keep a strict watch upon his
morals, or have his heart forcibly abducted by these warm-blooded
Limeneans--those were the times to hold wicked husbands in
consternation, and set watchful duenas at defiance! For a wonder, French
taste and dress are rapidly reforming all.
Some distance up the Rimac, near the Alemeda, is to be found the
pleasantest place for bathing. Water is turned by narrow canals, and
pours through a long range of enclosed and covered tanks, nicely
cemented and tiled, sufficiently large for swimming. They are not very
private places at all hours of the day, but one's delicacy is seldom
shocked, for the swimmers are the politest people possible: as an
instance, whilst bathing one morning, two youths accidentally intruded
on my quarters, but recovering their equanimity, very civilly removed
their head-gear and made a polite bow to me, while in the water!
Drives there are none at all pleasurable for any extent around the
city; nor are the rides more so. The environs, in all directions, are
intersected by heavy and high mud walls, shutting out air and vision,
leaving only heat and stifling clouds of dust to repay one's trouble.
Lima itself should not be too narrowly criticised from the streets;
although without, naught is beheld save dingy, adobie walls, dusty
cobwebbed lattices and balconies, half decayed, yet once pass the wide
and lofty portals, and many of the best houses have noble suites of
apartments, furnished with great taste and even splendor; besides, that
which gives, in a certain degree, an air of elegance, is the elaborate
mazes of glass doors, gaily papered or frescoed walls, and a profusion
of gilding. Light is usually thrown from the roof, and the houses are
cool and properly ventilated.
After a few _tertulias_, and a pretty ball given by the American Charge,
we had no other opportunities of mingling in Limenean society. There
were quite a number of pretty women, with very fair complexions and
winning manners, who danced like sylphs, as what Creole does not? Two
youthful Senoritas, of some sixteen and seventeen years, were pointed
out as little lumps of gold, of "purest ray serene," who were _fiancee_
to their uncles, fine old gentlemen of sixty! It was suggestive of a
post-chaise and bandboxes to any successful aspirant to the ownership of
a lovely pair of eyes. However, these out of the way alliances are quite
common in Lima, and perhaps the fair ones, at a later era, begin to
discover they have hearts of their own not to be sold to the highest
bidder, like bills of exchange at the mart! Very few of these deluded
damsels, it may be reasonably presumed, when fully aware of their
tender wrongs, can exclaim, in the words of the Spanish lady's ballad:
"I will not falsify my vows for gold nor gain,
Nor yet for all the _fondest swains_ that ever lived in Spain."