I was duly installed in my former lodgings at the French fonda, and in
the afternoon, being a holiday, went to the Plaza de Toros. The arena
was spacious, but without the wooden screens within the circle to
protect the tauridors and bandilleros, as is seen in the bull-rings of
old Spain. The amphitheatre was well arranged, and capable of containing
many thousands, with a separate enclosure, at a more elevated stand,
filled with troops, with fixed bayonets, and commanding a good sweep
around the audience. The exhibition was more of a cow-combat than an
old-fashioned bull-fight; they are miserable, disgusting scenes at best,
and the stranger ever takes sides with the tortured beasts against their
brutal tormentors. Here the horns were sawed partly off, or blunted with
leaden beads; in other respects the affair was conducted as elsewhere.
As the military governor, Yanes, appeared beneath his crimson canopy,
the music ceased; the gayly-dressed bands of picadores, bandilleros,
tauridors, on foot and horse, headed by the Matador, with long toledo in
his hands, bowed reverently before the General and Judges; then crossing
themselves, a pause ensued; the dulce men, and cigar venders, old
beldames with chairs, and boys with _sombra_--shade tickets--held their
peace. The arena was cleared of all but the mounted prickers and
scarfmen; a bugle sounded, low, heavy panels within the barricade of
the circus swung back, and in rushed the bulls. It is always to me the
finest sight, when the fierce beast--before becoming blinded with
rage--lightly stirs the ground bark with his fore foot, moves his head
slowly from side to side--the eyes flaming in a sparkle of lambent
jet--when with breath short and quick, with a wary glance around, he
selects--poor fool--some light, fluttering object, instead of the arms
that wave it, gives one deep angry bellow, and dashes forward. Then
begin the leaping antics of his active enemies: they tease him to
insanity, fire-work him, until the sulphurous flames blister his tough
hide; hood him, prick him, stab him--he is killed; and the two white
steeds, decorated with streaming red ribbons, bound in, and the
slaughtered beast, with glassy eyes and lolling tongue, is dragged out.
Sometimes, though rarely, the animal is terrified by his novel position,
and no coaxing will make him show fight; then boys and vagabonds
generally are permitted to leap the barricades, and chase the scared
brute about the circus, with shouts and hisses, when he is driven out to
feed the dogs. Then there are cheering _gritos_ for particularly
dextrous picadors, who, with long poles, and a short spike at the end,
afoot, withstand the lunge of the bull, until the hide in the terrible
exertion is nearly entirely loosened from the frame; or when the daring
Matador, with a single vigorous plunge, drives the long blade to the
very hilt, through a bloody sheath, into the tired beast. Again at
_longo intervallo_, a few coins are flung into the circle, to reward the
favored gladiators. All this, with plenty of dust, oceans of orchata,
and a fair show of lovely faces, made up the bull fight.
Later in the evening I attended the kind Padre to the _Comedia_. The
theatre was small, prettily painted, gilded, carved, and particularly
well-stocked with fleas. The audience was highly respectable, and the
female portion still preserved my appreciation of their beauty on the
former visit--there was less youth, but an equal degree of matronly
comeliness. Unlike the saffron-hued damsels generally seen throughout
Mexico, these donas had rounded forms, rosy complexions, and such soft,
languid eyes, and hair so smoothly banded or braided, that I often felt
tempted to pass my hand over the satin tresses of a lovely woman seated
before me.
The play was a most horrible tragedy--all about Moors, Guzmans and
Granada. The actors magnificently dressed, heaving unnecessarily long
respirations at every word--in fact a gasping species of elocution. The
prompter, too, within his covered trap behind the foot-lights, wheezed
like one far gone in the asthma, with a voice louder than the
performers.
The audience puffed paper cigars--men, women and children--until the
smoke became so dense, that nothing was perceptible on the stage, save
alone the shining armor that encased the legs of a Moor.
The curtain fell at midnight; and after an hour passed in a brilliant
cafe, sipping ices and punch, I returned to mine inn.
It was with unfeigned regret I parted with the gentlemen who had been
civil to me at Guadalajara--particularly Senor Llamas and the excellent
Padre--may they abide _muchos anos_--in health and prosperity in their
beautiful city.
On the 7th of June, escorted by my former antique guide, Cypriano, who
quite reminded me of a knight of the dark ages, with lance and pennon,
we got in the saddle, at nine by the evening clock, and pursued our path
through the silent lanes and suburbs of the city. Without the moon to
light our footsteps, we were four weary hours at a snail's pace in
reaching the Porton, or Garita, when, after much parleying from
house-tops and gratings, the lazy, sleepy sentinels were persuaded to
let down the chains, that barred the gateway, and we passed out upon the
main road. The officer on guard informed us that the troops had, some
weeks before, surprised and captured a number of the Ladrons, near
Tequilla, and sixteen had already been executed, with a choice reserve
of nine more that were to be shot on the morrow; all of which impressed
me as extremely wise and judicious measures.
We went jogging along, having no change of beasts, for I had bought a
stout spotted roadster, called by the natives _pinto_--painted--but by
me Circo, because of his resemblance to those variegated quadrupeds
commonly exhibited in the Olympic sports of North America. Towards
daylight I took a nap beside a rivulet, and with the sun arose, and had
a delicious dip in the pure water--all the reasoning powers of my
ancient mozo to the contrary. And here I feel, in gratitude, called upon
to say a feeble word in praise of Mexican guides. They, indeed, should
be classed with _arrieros_! Their attentions are unceasing. I found them
honest, obliging, good-tempered, and possessing a certain share of local
and traditionary intelligence. They appeared to exist without sleep,
too; for whenever I laid down, I pointed to sun or stars, as a celestial
clock, to mark the hours and true to the dial--was always awakened at
the proper time, finding all ready for mounting, even to the spurs
attached to my feet. _Ha dornudo vd bien? quiere vd tantito de pan? una
capita de licor, pues!_ says your guide, producing the morsel of bread
or wine from the pouches of the saddle; but if neither be required, he
will roll, and light you a cigarillo, and if he sees you enjoying its
soothing flavor, he throws up his hand and exclaims, '_Ay! mi alma! esta
bueno!_ I've hit your fancy now;' and continues the route with renewed
good humor, apparently amply happy that he has effected something to
please you. Such a one was old Cypriano; besides having a fund of
marvellous legends--upon every stone cross or mountain pass in
Mexico--that very much relieved the occasional monotony and fatigue of
the journey.
The ride was dreadfully oppressive with heat and dust, besides fear of
robbers, which, after a by-no-means hearty breakfast on a water-melon I
had no stomach for. An hour past noon we drew up near the environs of
Tequilla, and remained sleeping by the side of the stream, until the
declining sun warned us to be off. The horses and myself had been washed
and fed, and with a cooler atmosphere, we toiled over bad roads, hilly,
rocky and dusty, when soon after nightfall the twinkling lights of
Madelena were visible, and we trotted into the Meson. The neighborhood
had become quiet since my departure; the compadres dispersed, and the
paisanos had thrown aside the weapons they dared not use. It was too
late for a call upon the Alcalde, and my venerable guide ordered supper.
The patron of the inn was not an obliging person--not anxious to add to
the comforts of his guests. He had a pair of daughters flitting about
the yard in loose undress, who busied themselves for an hour in the
attempt to boil eggs to my liking; but after the fifteenth trial, some
as hard as brickbats, and others hardly warmed, the effort was
relinquished, and I contented myself with the national dish of frijoles,
which is ever an excellent preparation, and invariably well cooked.
Meanwhile, the surly patron kept a lynx-eyed supervision upon the
erratic damsels; and they never came near the bench, laid for our
supper, without he would snatch the dish from their fair hands, and,
with a rough push, cry "_Basta! basta! muchacha! anda!_ Be off with
you." Old Cypriano lost patience at last; and seizing his lance, swore
by the Holy Virgin if he did not know how to treat a cavallero, who
spent his cash like a king, he'd teach him--he would! These threats had
the desired effect; and calling off his handmaidens, he sent them to the
_cocina_, sat down before the door, and left us in peace. I remained at
the Meson until daylight, reclining on a large rough-built settee in the
patio, with no other covering than a comfortable serapa between my body
and a canopy of stars: certainly preferable to the close, damp holes
within the building, where fleas and vermin parade in battalions on the
look-out for wayworn travellers. Moreover, nothing can exceed the
delicious atmosphere of the nights, in the _Tierra templada_ of Mexico,
soft, yet invigorating--clear, calm and refreshing. I speak, of course,
of the dry season--with the rains one must seek a more modern
habitation.
My venerable soldier had the _pinto_, grinding his last mouthful of
grain beside me, ready for a start. I arose, as the sailors say, wide
awake as a black fish, and swung into the saddle. _Vayase con Dios_--go
to heaven, or the other place, just as the intonation implies--said the
grum inn keeper. _Hasta nunca_--hope never to see your ugly phiz
again--retorted Cypriano, as he gripingly counted out the rials for our
entertainment; I threw something more weighty to the _muchachas_, who
repaid me with kindly wishes.
With the fresh air of morning we left Madelena, and kept for some miles
along the borders of a broad, shallow lake, of the same name, until the
road diverged to the right, when we were obliged to forsake the good
ground, and level country, for tedious labor, over mule paths and rugged
mountains.
At Muchatilti we passed some ninety soldiers, horse and foot, barefoot,
conveying a pack of rascally-looking thieves, and a small field piece.
They were attended by twice this number of women and children, who at
times relieved their liege lords of muskets or equipments, with the
weight of camp utensils on their heads. On questioning a sergeant
belonging to the detachment, he told me they generally marched four
leagues a day, and in many places were obliged to throw the gun from its
carriage, and transport each part separately for leagues at a time. This
person also assured me, that he had served at the battle of Buena Vista,
and with his company of infantry had marched twenty-eight leagues in
forty-eight hours, with but a pint of parched Indian corn, and a quart
of water per man! So far as marching, and powers of enduring privation
go, I presume the Mexicans can do as much, if not more, than other
nations. They are not deficient in courage either, when well officered
and led--some of their bloody internal struggles attest it--but with us
they proved sadly deficient in both.
I have but little knowledge of what constitutes the proper field for
extended military operations; but from a few indifferent ideas picked up
in other countries, as well as in this trip through Mexico, I think I
may hazard the belief that in the line of march from Guadalajara towards
the Pacific, there are seldom met with positions adapted to the
operations of large bodies of troops, and save in the vicinity of large
towns, an army of any magnitude would find difficulty in procuring
subsistence; for the country is thinly populated, and but little land
under cultivation, and though I should judge not totally impassible for
artillery, it certainly seems an impracticable route for a numerous
train, or heavy guns.
Making no longer stay at the brightly-stained inn of Muchatilti than
was requisite to swallow a cup of coffee, and thrash a filthy Indian for
being caught _flagrante delictu_--stealing a bit of silver from my
bridle--we traversed the table-land beyond, and began zigzaging through
defiles of mountains on the approach to the Plan de Barrancas. The sky
became overcast--thunder was growling angrily in the distance, when we
overtook a drove of mules, the arrieros urging them at speed down a
valley to escape the fury of the impending storm. Descending to the base
of a gorge, we crossed the rocky bed of a rippling brook, and removing
the saddles from our horses, led them above, and secured them to a tree,
whilst we ascended still higher, and sought refuge under the lee of a
great shelving crag that had once formed part of the stupendous wall,
five thousand feet above us. Rain began to fall in large heavy drops,
lightning to glare, and thunder came nearer. The air was perfectly
still; and the sharp whistles and cries of the drivers echoed and
re-echoed from side to side of the chasm, as they hurried their beasts
across the stream. By-and-by a strong gust of wind went rushing
overhead, the thunder came crashing yet closer, the dark slate-colored
clouds poured down in torrents, and lightning forked, flashing and
vivid, made the narrow valley tremulous with noise and fire. The rain
descended in unbroken sheets, and in an inconceivably short space of
time, the bubbling brook had become a boiling torrent, swelling and
leaping from rock to rock, until, at last, joining in the uproar of
rain, wind, flame and thunder, the rocks themselves were loosened, and
came rumbling and crashing down the steep gorges, and were swept away in
the whirlpool of foaming waters. He who has never beheld a
quickly-raised storm amid wild mountain passes, and the amazing power
of the elements, can have but a vague idea of Nature when clothed in
all her angry grandeur and sublimity.
The _nubarrada_ was soon over, but the whole face of the valley was
changed: trees and undergrowth had been torn up by the roots or washed
down--deep fissures had been cut wherever the red clayey soil gave play
to the impetuous currents--masses of basaltic granite had been
dislodged, thrown from their foundations, hurled some distance below,
and either served to block up some open channel, or enlarge others; and
the point where the path crossed the stream had been burrowed out into a
deep, raging pool, which would in future be impassible.
One of the poor mules belonging to the drove, with his cargo of sugar,
had been caught and carried away in the contending water; the arrieros
cursed like infidels, and wickedly declared they had long before wished
a like fate might befall him for his stupidity.
As the thunder went muttering to the adjacent mountains, and the flood
was still deluging our devoted heads, I yelled into the ear of Cypriano,
who all the while kept his cigarillo alight, that it was _una cosa
rica_--a fine display--_tiene ud rason_--"there's sense in that," said
the old man, "but wouldn't you rather have a dry serapa and
calconcillos?" So forthwith he wrung the moisture from my garments, and
we prepared the horses for service. Leading them by a dangerous foothold
down the course of the stream, we came to an enlarged basin, and halted
on a smooth belt of rocks. Here the sun shown again warm and
cheerily--we dried our reeking raiment, and I amused myself the while
under a light cascade of turbid water.
At midday we had toiled slowly up the steep sides of the Barrancas, and
four hours later, left the last link of the Sierra, and drew bridles at
Istlan. Having no further need of the post administrador, or the
services of his _vivo_ mule, I sought the public meson. Here were seated
under the portals a select group of politicians, listening to, and
commenting upon an article in an old newspaper, read with much emphasis
by a dirty jacketless person, with a head so large, and buried so deeply
between his shoulders, as to bear a close resemblance to a turtle.
_Senor_, said he, as I dismounted, rising with a graceful gesture, "the
good patron of the inn is away; the caballero who addresses you is the
well known _licenciado_ Don Augustin Jarano--_criado de vd_: What can be
done for you? that is a noble animal you bestride; he is tired! beat
out--dead! You will profit by an exchange--my friend, here," winking to
one of his auditors, "has an angel of a beast--_tienes sobre pasos_--has
a gait like a lady--paces! and has refused two ounces--_eh! no! quarante
douros_--forty hard dollars!" _Bueno_, I replied, much to the horror of
my guide, who began to think the sharp advocate was going to become the
owner of the pinto. After a world of tugging and struggling a miserable
spavined nag was pulled from a corral to the patio, and secured to a
post. Waiting until the praises of this _muy bueno cavallo_--this fine
steed--had been fully sounded, I made them a prompt offer of six rials
for him as he stood!--when, finding the gringo was not to be so easily
jockeyed, they declared he was not worth half the money, and we became
warm friends at once. I tarried an hour, discussing the right of church
taxation; when Cypriano, having had a fowl grilled, a bowl of frijoles,
bread, and country wine, snugly stowed in the _alforgas_, I informed my
acute acquaintances that I was bound to Guadalajara, bid them adios, and
after skirting the pretty town, turned to the opposite direction. It is
always advisable in Mexico while travelling, to avoid if possible
public places, and keep the destination secret; for the
_compadres_--highwaymen--are often in collusion with people about mesons
and derive information of the guests from those sources.
Striking a path on the banks of a pretty stream, we shortly found a
secluded nook, beneath a scrub olive-tree, where the beasts were bathed,
fed, and picketted in the rich grasses, when we did much the same, and
took a comfortable siesta beside them.
Towards evening resuming the journey, a few leagues carried us to
Aguacatlan; to preserve the strength of our animals for a thirty leagues
travel on the morrow, I concluded to remain until daylight. The spacious
fonda was filled with guests, and I made the acquaintance of an
agreeable young Irishman, from Tepic. In an adjoining room there was a
large family of senoritas, convoyed by a venerable matron and servants.
They were very chatty and amiable while sitting in the patio in front of
their domicile; so much so, in fact, that the senora became suspicious,
and, as my Milesian companion remarked, "_corral'd_ the doncellas too
early in the evening." The duenna had no compassion for bachelors, and
we saw no more of their fluttering white dresses and ribosas; though we
could hear them frolicking and shouting in great glee, which was very
provoking, as windows there were none, and Spanish bolts and portals
being famous for strength and solidity, we were obliged to relinquish
any further hope of their charming society.
It was getting late, old Cypriano was sitting at my door, enveloped in a
serapa, giving no signs of life, save the occasional reluming of the
cigarillo, like a dim glow-worm, betwixt his teeth. The honest fellow
needed rest, and saying _Buenos noches_ I threw myself upon the brick
bedstead, with saddle for pillow, and was soon asleep.
Before sunset on the following afternoon, my gallant little beast
galloped bravely into Tepic, and I was again made quite at home with Mr.
Bissell. A vessel was awaiting me at San Blas, but the passage being a
tedious one to Mazatlan by sea, I concluded to pursue the land route
along the coast to the latter port, on the following night, and
accordingly called on General Aristi, who endorsed my passport, and I
then took a post license. I was sorry to discharge my faithful old
guide, Cypriano, but a liberal donation, and present of the _pinto_
served to lessen our mutual grief. He still hung about the court-yard,
jealous of the attentions shown me by others, and buckling on my spurs,
affectionately pressed my legs at parting.
I rode about Tepic, with a young Englishman, who was handsome enough to
drive all the women in town distracted. The city has not the air of stir
and bustle, like other places of note in the interior, nor is it so well
built; it has charms, however, in quietude, in verdant fields, the
fertility of its lovely plain, its swift streams, long lines of gardens,
all looking as if calmly cradled in the arms of the giant sierras that
encircle it.
The rainy season was approaching, and whilst we were bathing in the
little rush and mat-built cabins by the river, the first shower
fell--there were numbers of ladies and children beneath the leafy
frames, which only served for shelter a moment, and at last, in
desperation, groups of them sallied out for a run to the town; the
effort was ineffectual, the gusts of wind and rain drove them back, with
light dresses completely saturated, and clinging to round pretty limbs
only more exposed in efforts to conceal them. Our gallant offers of
assistance were all in vain, they only screamed and laughed the louder
the nearer we advanced; thus on the wet grass they reclined, and
remained in the heavy rains until servants returned with shawls and
wrappers, when, with many a light laugh and flashing glance, they ran
across the plain.
Although prepared to leave Tepic at midnight, the rain was violent and
darkness too black to begin the journey. Towards daylight, with guide
and postboy, and closely buttoned _armas_, of skin leggings, with faces
turned from the tempest, we made the attempt. We had not proceeded much
beyond the city, when the roads became so exceedingly slippery over a
clayey soil, and our progress so tedious and dangerous, that we
dismounted at a rancho, and were compelled to remain until near noon. By
this time the heaviest clouds had apparently squeezed themselves dry,
and under light droppings we again pushed on and commenced descending
very gradually from the grand plateau towards the Tierra Caliente below.
This I did not accomplish without having my steed to fall with me, but
luckily escaped injury, the saddle bearing the brunt of the shock, and a
broken stirrup saving my leg and foot from a like mishap. We reached the
low lands within eight leagues of San Blas, and found a disagreeable
contrast in the dry heat, from the salubrious atmosphere above.
Changing horses and rapid riding brought us to the main trunk of the Rio
Grande, when embarking with our saddles and geer, in broad canoes, we
were ferried to the opposite bank at Santiago. The river is wide, rapid
and muddy. Small houses of rushes extended from the banks, and hundreds
of people were washing or bathing within them.
The town appeared to have been visited with a heavy shower of
water-melons; I had never before seen such quantities. In front of
every house there were pyramids five feet high, like racks of shot in an
ordnance yard; every man, woman and child had their heads immersed to
the ears in huge fragments; even cattle, swine and dogs were at work,
and the river, too, was covered with seeds and rinds. It was not
surprising, that under such a novel dispensation, there was delay in
procuring horses; to pass my time I supplied myself with a huge green
monster of its species, engaged a little shed of rushes, and cooled my
limbs in the tepid waters, which last feat did not in the least shock
the modesty of an ancient _planchadora_--washerwoman--who carried on
her occupation quite unconcernedly beside me.
Under lash and spur away we went in great good humor, but had not gone a
league, when I waxed exceeding wroth on discovering that some watchful
thief had stolen three ounces from my hat while bathing--it was too late
to return, and we consigned him to his just deserts. The roads were
perfectly level, dry and sandy; at times we scented the ocean air, borne
along by the regular sea breeze, and the atmosphere was filled with
knats and musquitoes, that by no means enlivened the journey. The
vegetation had changed, and we passed for leagues through groves of
tapering palm trees, broad-leafed bananas, rank vines and vegetation.
Fording the Rio San Pedro, we traversed the little towns of Rosa Morada
and Buena Vista, thence over the Rio Cana to Acaponeta. The river was a
clear, shallow stream, and had not yet been swollen or turbid by the
freshets near its source above. We had ridden all night, and sending my
mozo to the town, with the post boy who had suffered severely from the
sting of an _alacran_, a venomous scorpion, I remained to bathe and put
on my other shirt.
During the entire trip to and from Mexico, I found that by eating
sparingly of light food, smoking less, and laving constantly, I could
endure almost any amount of fatigue, with but an hour or two of sleep in
the twenty-four; a few paper cigarillos was all the extraneous stimulant
I indulged in while on the road.
Acaponeta is a hot little town, half built of mud, with a spacious
rural-like square, shaded by fine trees, and boasting of a quaint old
church. It is but a few leagues from the ocean, surrounded by a sandy
soil, which however, under the sun's fierce rays, over all the Tierra
Caliente, produces quantities of tropical plants: the cassava for meal,
bananas and guavas, with melons and many kinds of fruit. The inhabitants
of these secluded districts, living in little worlds of their own, free
from care or war, regardless of the political revolutions so continually
agitating the mother country, seem to enjoy the _dolce far niente_ in
its truest sense. They are too poor to excite the rapacity of the
government; their land yields almost spontaneously all means of
subsistence; they live in mud cabins or bamboo huts, through whose light
lattice-work of reeds or trellis, the sea breeze cools them during the
languid siesta; then at the fiesta or fandango, the women, in white
muslin camizettas and gaily striped basquinas, with gilt baubles,
perhaps, thrust through their black locks, attended by the men, whose
only wealth consists of horse, saddle, spurs and serapa--dance, game and
drink until the fiesta is ended, with no fears of interruption save what
lies in the sharp steel of their mercurial cuchillos--ignorant and
unenvious of all around them.
I found my guide in the Plaza, and walked into a white building on a
corner, purporting to be a _Fonda y Billar_. It was Sunday morning,
besides some notable feast day; a little old spider-legged uneven
billiard table was thronged by rakish blades, with little miniature
nine pins stuck in the centre of the cloth, which were being rapidly
knocked down by the players; a pulperia was close at hand, and the chink
of _copitas_, filled with aguadiente or muscal, was keeping a musical
accompaniment to the click of the billiard balls. The patron was an
active, portly person, and from his clean, natty attire and huge beard,
with a certain sea roll to his gait, I correctly surmised that he had
"sailed the broad ocean," or that he might have been a retired pirate.
He received me very hospitably, ordered a lithe black-eyed little girl
of ten years not to go to the Iglesia until _El Capitan_ had made a
breakfast, and pointing to a bedstead in the sala, upon which was
tightly stretched a side of dressed leather, desired me to repose until
he could procure horses.
From my position I had a clear view around the Plaza--crowds of
gaily-dressed paisanos were moving from house to house, or thronging the
bough-built booths and little shops, all strewed beneath the lofty
trees, sipping dulces, making purchases, eating fruit, smoking or
gaming. Presently the large bell began tolling for high mass; like
magic, at the first stroke of the iron tongue, traffic ceased, the monte
was discontinued, the dealer putting by money and cards; half eaten
fruit was thrown upon the ground, children ceased squalling, caracolling
steeds were reined sharply back by riders crossing the square, the noise
of balls and glasses in the Billar and Tienda was silenced, hats were
reverently doffed, cigarillos dropped, and the hum and murmur of many
voices had passed away. Then, as the little chimes with noisy throats
were bursting forth in clanging peals, the whole concourse of persons
that filled the plaza went moving with uncovered heads, sombreros in
hand, toward the church, and now the organ rose in solemn strains,
embers were swinging, multitudes of tapers were twinkling within the
nave, like stars in the firmament, while hundreds were kneeling in piety
and awe before the shrines they worshipped. In no portion of the world
can there be found more true respect for religion or real reverence,
than in some parts of Mexico, and the truthfulness and simplicity with
which they conduct the beautiful ceremonials of the catholic church, is
not a flattering commentary upon the indifferent professions of more
enlightened countries.
In witnessing this impressive scene, I sighed to become a convert, and
indeed I felt convinced that if I had had the persuasive lips exerted
for my conversion, that pertained to the penserosa face and Murillo eyes
of my host's graceful little daughter, I should have thrown away the
sword for the cross on the spot. She was standing with half raised eyes,
and an impatient expression, wondering very naturally, no doubt, why the
gringo did not swallow the eggs and milk she had prepared by her sire's
commands--_Quiere usted mas Senor?_--want anything else--she murmured,
with a pretty, petulant frown; "No! no! _amigita! mil gracias_, forgive
me for detaining you from the mass;" her face brightened joyously, and
readjusting her little flowing ribosa, she tripped away to her
devotions.
Horses were soon at the door, and passing beside the now-deserted booths
and shade, we once more became exposed to the burning glare of the
tropical sun. During the afternoon, light showers of rain chased us
along the road--a great relief from breathing the light sandy dust of
the parched soil; but as night came on, and our track led through
interminable forests of sycamores, closely woven with thousands of
creeping vines and parasitical plants, the very light and air were shut
out, and what with myriads of stinging insects, heat and dust, I thought
of never surviving. Two tours past midnight we emerged from these
sultry groves, and reached the village of Esquinapa, where, changing
steeds, I was attended by an old post boy, named Tomas; and from the
moment I unceremoniously disturbed his slumbers until we parted, he
never ceased singing and rhyming. He would have made a character for
Cervantes. Awaking with a couplet on his tongue, he followed it up by a
trite Spanish proverb, hit off scores of doggerel, like an
improvisatore, on my name, and, indeed, with his joyous, hearty old
laughter, that acted like an epidemic in every scar and wrinkle of his
fine bronzed face--with generous bonhommie and good humor, he kept me
full of merriment the nine leagues we travelled; and I have only to
regret, for my own satisfaction, not having noted some of his poetical
sallies.
We gained the Rio Rosario before dawn, and halted between two channels,
on a dry pebbly spot, where, throwing myself from the saddle, I plunged
into the running water, and then, with a little mound of sand for a
pillow, took the first half-hours sleep since leaving Tepic. At sunrise,
old Tomas aroused me with a verse and song, and fording the remaining
fork of the river, we entered Rosario. It is a place of some importance,
with a number of substantial public buildings--internal custom house, a
tobacco monopoly, and barracks for a military commandancia; in fact less
provincial, more modernized with cafes, shops, sociedads, and
well-constructed houses than any town of the Tierra Caliente, save
Mazatlan. While awaiting a relay, I was regaled by the gentlemanly
administrador of the Duana with a cup of delicious chocolate, and in
turn favored him with late news from the capital.
Departing from Rosario, which is nearly thirty leagues from the Port, I
came on at a flying gallop to the old Presidio; then tarrying for
breakfast with General Anaya, I again continued with all speed to Urias,
where my horse's heels, and my own anxiety, outstripped the broken wind
of the guide's, and I never drew rein before reaching the Marismas of
Mazatlan. The tide was very high, and I was almost forced to swim; but
encouraged by a cavalcade of gentlemen on the opposite shore, I
straggled through, and was greeted by hosts of acquaintances, who, by
mere accident and fun, had proposed to meet me on the road. I feel
assured that I never shall be so handsomely escorted again; and what
added to the eclat of my arrival was, that upon entering the crowded
plaza a polite commissary ordered the band to play "Hail Columbia!" and
I was nothing loth to hide my blushes, travel-stained garments, and
jaded horse, from the admiring populace, and seek refuge within the
residence of the Governor.
Thus terminated my rough notes and jolts in a Mexican saddle, after a
journey of near twenty-five hundred miles, mostly on horseback; and the
last one hundred and twelve leagues from Tepic performed in fifty-three
hours, which was said to be the quickest trip on record. I was happy
that the journey was finished; and although I experienced no subsequent
fatigue, and my frame was much stronger, yet it is an undertaking that I
should not be anxious to attempt again.
When a gentleman travels in Mexico, he goes provided with beds and
baggage on pack mules, and half a dozen attendants at least, armed to
the teeth, and ready to do battle when occasion requires. In my case it
was different: at all times hurried, with at best but indifferent
beasts--riding night and day together--never meeting a person on the
roads without a mutual fumbling in the holsters for pistols, not
knowing whether in raising the hand to the _sombrero_, it is intended to
salute or shoot you, as friend or foe; yet, the provinces of the
Republic that I traversed were out of the beaten track of tourists, with
portfolios and poodles--a country where one is _per force_ obliged to
rough it a little; and where in the first essay, as in my case, the
novelty and excitement attending fresh scenes, varied scenery, strange
forms, manners and habits, more than balanced the fatigue, insecurity
and annoyances of the journey.