The day previous to my departure from Mexico, I called at the Bureau of
Postes for a license, and made a report of what I considered collusion
betwixt the Ladrons and Cochero, near Queretaro. The office was
conducted by Mexicans; and the Administrador, quite a gentleman,--who
excused his servants at some length, by stating that the causes which
prevented them from disobeying the orders of the highwaymen were fears
of subsequent punishment, in case of escape at the time. Moreover, in
the present unsettled state of the country, crime had never been so
prevalent, in consequence of the few troops at the disposal of the
authorities, for the purpose of keeping the roads open, from the hordes
of deserters who mostly composed these lawless bands; and even in the
immediate vicinity of Mexico itself, highway robberies and murder were
of daily occurrence. I was not convinced, although silenced, by the
plausible courtesy of the Administrador.
Early on the morning of the 26th of May, I shook hands with my kind army
friends, newly capped pistols, and vaulted into the saddle. _Estamos
listos_--all right--said the post guide, as he succeeded in tightening
the circingles, by kicking the beasts under the belly--_Vamanos_.
Pulperias and tiendas were being opened; leperos taking their morning's
dram of _pulqae_; closely veiled faces and sombre gowns were moving to
mass; patrols of horse and foot, returning drowsily to barracks;
markets thronged; jackasses trumpetting their morning's note of
thanksgiving, and the great city awaking again into hum and bustle;
while, as the sun was climbing over the white-robed volcanoes that
looked down upon the beautiful valley, we passed the long lines of
streets and garita, gained the main road, when our pace quickened, and
on we hurried along the branching shade of the avenues. Pell mell we
went through droves of mules, at times driving a group of perverse
donkeys right and left with the impetus of a catapult--maybe, one or
more over, in a smoke from their own cargoes of charcoal, wood, or
vegetables;--and long before the arrieros could right the little brutes
on their legs, with _arres_ and blows--in readiness to treat us with
curses--we had swept by in our heedless flight, unmindful of all; my
guide scrupulously consoling himself by asserting that a government
_extraordinario_ had the the privilege to knock over everybody that
intercepted the path. In an hour we had left canals, streams, bridges,
causeways, and fertile fields of the lovely _vega_, and turning to the
right the bluff hill closed upon the scene--and this was my latest
glimpse of Mexico.
Soon leaving the main road, we branched off by narrow bridle paths, and
cross cuts of the post route: four relays, and as many fresh guides,
carried me to a place called Tepetitlan. Here the horse purveyor was a
woman, who declared, with an ireful voice and gesture, as I drew up
before her tenement, "that the blessed virgin might send her to
purgatory if she had a horse with a hoof to stand on--that I might
report her to the Alcalde or the devil, or both, or go there myself,
just as I pleased." _Que mi importa_?--what do I care? And the director
had no right to send three expresses in one week, when she had nothing
but the old grey and the mare! _Ave Maria! pues!_--so help yourself!
Cracking my whip a little savagely, I crossed the verdant slope of a
hill, and dismounted at the gate of a walled garden, having, a
dilapidated and venerable habitation within. I was decoyed thither by a
brace of buxom damsels--mother and daughter--who, perceiving my
distress, despatched an old cripple in search of beasts.
The little town had much to recommend it; the houses were very quaint
and antiquated, strewn, as they might be, upon the sides of a grassy
slope--with a crumbling stone bridge and rapid brawling river coursing
at the base. Midway between was a large old church, ivy-grown from the
ruined towers and belfry to the decayed buttresses and lintels of the
doorway; all around the front were broad flights of stone steps, leading
from the declivities of the hill, down to a level amphitheatre-like
space, which was filled with glorious old trees, creeping vines, bright
green grasses, ranges of marble benches beneath the shade, and in the
midst, a thread of a rill, plashing about the ruins of what once had
been the bowl of a large fountain.
Besides the picturesque charms of the village, I was recompensed for two
hours delay, by the frolicsome Senoras, at whose estate I had tarried.
They very obligingly prepared me a nice little repast of frijoles--fried
eggs and tortillas--assisted me to drink a flask of bordeaux, and
entertained me the while with a narrative of how the horrible Yankees
had entered their great city--for they were cockneys, these ladies, and
merely rusticating at their retreat--and their dreadful fears, and the
horror they would undergo in case the invasion extended to Tepetiltan.
My guide, who had been industriously eating a bowl of beans, using an
original spoon like to a diminutive scoop--made in a jiffy from his
tortillas--and swallowing beans and spoon at every mouthful, thereby
putting himself to the trouble of reconstructing another at each
succeeding bite--he, I say, informed my good hostesses that I was one of
those _demonios Yankees_. _Ay! dios!_ said the elder; _es possible que
vd es gringo?_--can it be true that you are a green-horn? _Si amiga_, I
responded. Then their curiosity was interested to know my destination,
religious impressions, and so forth--if I was a _herege_? And being
assured that I was a Christian catholic, could make the cross, and name
more saints than they could, their good humor returned, and we made the
old trees merry with laughter, chatting away the hours, seated upon the
velvet sward. Still there appeared no indication of horses, and when
beginning to despair, an individual saluted us, and I noticed him
privately telegraphing my guide as to the probable amount the _gringo_
could be cheated! when turning to me, with a resolute air, he exclaimed,
_Tengo caballos hasta Tida a ocha pesos cada uno!_ This was a triple
extortion, but, very much to his astonishment, I immediately closed the
bargain: upon which, he darted a disappointed look upon his coadjutor,
in not having been signalized to charge more, and then drew forth his
beasts from behind the garden wall. I had to be cheated, and there was
no necessity of losing one's temper. I kissed the ladies--I say it with
modest pride--and pursued my route.
I came on smoothly and peaceably the remainder of the day and during the
night, until towards daybreak, when, to keep my eyes open, I took a
refreshing dip in the little river Tula. On attempting to mount again,
accidentally placing a hand on the horse's rump, he very unceremoniously
struck me with both heels on the thigh. I was hurled some yards, and
fell senseless. My guide dragged me again to the stream, and I suppose
his novel mode of treatment had the happy effect of restoring me to
animation; for I partly recovered consciousness with my head beneath the
water, in what I thought the last struggles of strangulation. It was
meant, however; in kindness; and fortunately having a flask of strong
muscal in the _alforgas_, he bathed me, inside and out, to my great
relief, although I was obliged to lay on a serapa by the road side, in
sharp pain, for two hours. Then exchanging my vicious brute with the
guide, he assisted me into the saddle again, and we walked quietly into
the town of San Juan del Rio--not, however, without passing a body of
sixteen deserters from our own army, in full uniform--who seemed to wish
to be more sociable than I judged civil--and I was right glad to hear
the last of their reiterated _adios_.
At San Juan, a large _donceur_ procured magnificent horses for myself
and a small urchin, who was sent as post-boy; after being again chafed
with spirits, I mounted, and with a swollen, painful leg, left the town.
The animal I bestrode moved with a spirited though easy gait, and
nothing transpired for some miles. For easier travelling we had taken
the main road, which traversed a level, well-cultivated country, hedged
on either side with close plantations of the cactus and argave. It was
about nine o'clock, when my little companion called attention to three
horsemen, who, most unaccountably, had started up within an hundred
yards of our rear: _Hay mala gente_--they are bad fellows--he softly
exclaimed. They were well mounted, and like most other Mexicans on the
road, had the lower portions of the face bound around with colored
handkerchiefs, and notwithstanding the extreme mildness, not to say
warmth of the morning, were closely wrapped in serapas. I must confess
seeing naught remarkable in all this; for the country was open;
apparently well travelled; shortly before, we had passed a large drove
of pack mules, and a _hacienda_ was visible in the distance. Still I did
not neglect the hint of my sharp young guide, and bade him make sail
ahead. He needed no second bidding--gave a terrified look back, and
struck spurs to his beast. Waiting a little while, I, too, increased my
speed, but had not made a dozen bounds, when a loud voice called me to
halt! What for? said I, without pausing. _Su passaporta_, was shouted.
Pulling a heavy rifle-pistol from the holster, and bringing my horse to
a stand, I replied, "Here's my passport!"
They instantly checked their animals, within twenty yards, threw off
serapas, and whilst the individual nearest me was rapidly unrolling a
cloth from the lock of his short carbine, believing hostilities to have
commenced, I took deliberate aim, and fired. He was sitting diagonally
towards me, and the ball, of nearly an ounce in weight, struck him high
up the chest; and I venture to assert, upon the well-known virtues of
Mons. Devisme's weapons, on the boulevarde Poissonierre, that it went
through and through him, I saw his carbine fall to the ground, and heard
him exclaim, with both hands pressing the breast, _Madre de Dios!_ I
myself was of the opinion, that the sooner he said his prayers the
better, and although I felt a twinge of regret at what had taken place,
it was speedily dissipated; for at the same moment there were three or
four reports--two of them from persons on foot, inside the hedge; but
not hearing even the whistling of the bullets, I judged their aim had
been somewhat inaccurate. Giving my horse the rein and spur, I went
flying along the road. One of the mounted gentlemen alone followed in
pursuit, and finding I had the heels of him, I held my nag well in,
until I had disengaged the remaining weapon, when, halting suddenly, I
cried, _Venga mi compadre, para el cambio_--come and take your revenge.
The instant of perceiving the movement, he fired a pistol at random,
shouted _punetero!_--wheeled rapidly into the thickets, and was out of
sight. He was at too great a distance to make sure of him, or I
certainly should have saved the _garotte_ a wrench. The old adage
preserved him: _El diablo siempre cuida por los suyos_--the devil
regards his darlings. Once more giving my willing beast the bit, I never
ceased running for five leagues; as for my leg, I had forgotten all
about it. Overtaking the little guide, we slackened our pace. But the
trouble was not ended, for presently the diligence came in sight, and as
we approached, what was my surprise and dismay, to observe an individual
on the box deliberately level a blunderbuss at my head, and never remove
his aim until the coach was lost to view! _Bueno!_ thought I; this is
diverting--first to shoot a thief, and then be mistaken for one!
Dismounting at a small pulperia, near an extensive _hacienda_, I bathed
my lame limb in muscal, and reloaded the pistol; during which last
operation, the patron of the grog-shop, who looked something villanous
in the visage, interrogated the boy, who afterwards informed me that the
wounded rogue on the black horse was one Senor Felipe, an intimate
friend of the pulperia man, and greatly respected by the community at
large. I was not again molested, and experienced no further
interruption. Three posts carried us to Queretaro late in the afternoon.
Meeting Mons. Ribaud in the streets, I related the adventure, and he
strongly advised me not to make it known, as there was no calculating
the number of Don Felipe's associates, or the annoyance one might suffer
from the sharp thrust of a knife, unexpectedly dealt by noon or
midnight. Subsequently I was introduced to an English gentleman, who had
been robbed the day previous in the diligence--who stated, that, as
there chanced to be a German mechanic in the coach, the _compadres_
mistook him for a Yankee, and very promptly blew his brains out--which
little incident made me feel highly gratified that a like interesting
episode had not been enacted with mine own.
I reported my arrival to the American Commissioners, and took quarters
with the officers attached to the escort. They entered the city on the
25th, as the vote upon the Treaty was being taken in the Mexican Senate:
very possibly it may have hastened it. The division stood but four in
opposition--much excitement prevailed in Queretaro, as the measure was
decidedly unpopular among all classes of military men; there being no
less than twenty-seven hundred officers of the army, besides immense
swarms of empleados and every species of Government people, awaiting the
action of Congress. It was universally conceded by liberal-minded
persons, that the old army should be completely disbanded, and
regenerated on a smaller scale; but still they kept up the cry of War!
War! without the slightest means in men, money, or material, to carry it
on; merely as a watchword to frown down reform, without the merest hope
or wish to do any more fighting or running--idle words and wind, and
thus the _gritos_ of _Viva la guerra! Abajo la paz!_ were yelled in
every street and plaza.
The battalion of traitors, under the banner of San Patricio, who
amounted to some hundreds, had very judiciously been withdrawn from the
city before the coming of the American troops. Strong guards of Mexican
cavalry were posted throughout the town to prevent any disturbance,
since the entrance of the escort had been strenuously opposed by the
Ministry, but with the exception of a few stones thrown at the
Commissioners' empty coaches, on driving to the stables, and a
corporal's guard of our Riflemen charging and clearing a street--for
some real or fancied insult--no collision took place.
Our soldiers were quartered in a large, commodious church on the skirts
of the city, and strong guards daily detailed for duty at the residences
of their officers. They were a splendid body of cavalry, and deservedly
elicited a deal of admiration from natives and foreigners. We were
lodged in two spacious houses facing the principal street--the Ministers
with their numerous attaches in one, and the officers adjoining. Each
edifice was big enough for a regiment. Our receiving and sleeping saloon
was all in one, and a fine lofty hall it was, with capital balconies in
front.
We passed the time very pleasantly. There were nice baths in the
vicinity, where we laved before breakfast. We devoted the mornings to
walking, or lounging over the wide balconies, where, from dawn till
dark, an audience of near a thousand leperos and vagabonds, were thickly
seated on the opposite sides of the street, regarding with marked
attention our minutest proceedings. Within a few minutes walk was a
circular promenade, closely planted with undergrowth and towering
foliage, where in the afternoons all the world assembled to behold their
enemies, _Los gringos_.
One morning I had the pleasure of accompanying the commanding officer of
the escort and his officers on an official visit to the military
Governor of the town. He entered the saloon, very like Harlequin, after
we all were seated. He was a little man; and as the doors swung open, in
he bounded with open arms, and bowing most gracefully to his visitors.
He was not in uniform; and his only military insignia were a number of
ribbons and decorations on the breast of his coat. He had received a
ball through the cheek at the battle of Buena Vista, which was
carefully concealed beneath a luxuriant growth of whiskers. The
conversation was not very general, and remaining but a brief sitting, we
made our salaams; upon which I could not resist complimenting the Major
at his excessive grace whilst outbowing the General, and he assured me
that he had even injured the King of Naples' spine, who attempted to
surpass him in the business!
From here we repaired, to attend one of our Commissioners on another
official visit, to the Mexican President and Ministers. The
reception-room was rather a mean apartment, hung with crimson curtains,
and at the upper end was a chair of state, with others ranged around.
The President, Pena y Pena, pleased me more than his advisers, having
a mild, benignant expression, and evidently appeared worn down
with care and anxiety. Anaya was a tall, bony person, with high
cheek-bones--denoting his Indian origin--and a stolid striped face.
Rosa, the Secretary of War, was short in stature, of swarthy complexion,
with full, dark, intelligent eyes. But of all the public characters, who
held office under the Mexican government, whom I had the opportunity of
seeing, there was none who struck me so forcibly as one of the
deputies--Senor Cauto.
At the conclusion of the Presentation, a number of polite speeches were
interchanged, all of which impressed me as being very gracefully done,
though destitute of a particle of sincerity, as these empty-headed
formalities usually are. But indeed I felt for the pitiable position of
those poor Mexicans, who were having bitter pills crammed down their
throats, though gilded by so many sweet, courteous compliments; and I
was glad when the audience terminated, and we had turned our backs on
the miserable, cowed-looking sentinel at the gate.
The officers of the escort received many civilities from the Mexicans,
and extended others in return. The Governor had obligingly furnished a
full colonel, who was an excellent cicerone about the city, who ordered
dinners, assisted in eating them, and made himself generally useful: he
bore a surprising resemblance to the portraits of Don Quixote. On one
occasion we had a call from a colonel of cavalry: a large, fine-looking
fellow, flashing resplendent in gold, from the glittering plates of his
fur shako, to the richly-chased scabbard of his sabre, and rowels of his
bright spurs;--he must have been worth a fortune as he stood! It was his
wish that all the American officers would honor him at a breakfast
preparing for the occasion. The invitation was cheerfully accepted, as
much, possibly, in compliment to the dashing colonel, as to the fact
that our own board was not so well supplied as was altogether palatable
and proper.
It was quite a grand affair--was the breakfast--laid out in the
billiard-saloon of a fonda, having the bar and cooking convenient, as it
were, in the same apartment; there were some twenty Mexican officers at
table, besides ourselves; to say nothing of as many more casual
observers, who aided vociferously in drinking all the toasts in
succession, and afterwards carefully secreted the glasses--which were
limited--in readiness for another toast. The first course consisted
simply of a wine-glass of pure cogniac--intended for an appetizer no
doubt--but it was probably subversive of the desired effect, for I
noticed, immediately afterwards, a number with watery eyes, and great
difficulty of articulation. This was followed by a pilaus of rice and
chickens, beefsteaks, soups, frijoles, fruit, and viands in the most
indiscriminate confusion. Bordeaux and sherry circulated freely, and we
had speeches, toasts, and sentiments: we drank the memory of every
general, living or dead, of both armies, beginning with Washington and
Hidalgo, and gave, I should imagine, upon a rough calculation, as many
as eighty or ninety cheers for Santa Anna, and "Skote!" I had the
happiness of translating--rather freely I must confess--these different
effusions, and also the sense of a long harangue delivered by an
advocate, who came late, and for that reason got comfortably _boracho_
at once.
Our gallant host, in a few disjointed observations, assured us that he
was not only brave himself, and loved bravery in others, but that his
horse was brave, and had been wounded in divers battles. _Yo soy
valiente!_ said the fierce colonel, pounding the orders on his capacious
breast, and forthwith proclaimed to the audience his intention to pay
for everything that anybody could possibly eat or drink for a fortnight
to come, and seizing me by the arms, he impressively remarked that I was
the most intimate friend he ever had except his wife, and requested me
to throw his huge shako up to the ceiling--solely for _amistad_, and
good fellowship of the thing--which I instantly did, and made the
bearskin and golden plates ring against the rafters. Thereupon he called
for more wine, and desired all who loved him to break a few glasses,
commencing himself with a couple of decanters. At this stage of the
action the landlord interfered, and very sensibly cut off the supplies
of liquor, which reduced the party, who were "merry in the halls," to
consistent behavior; when, embracing one another frequently, horses were
ordered for a turn in the Alameda. They treated us with the greatest
kindness and hospitality, only the manner of doing it was different from
our own. All were decorated; and one handsome young officer of the
Lancers had four emblems of defeated battles.
The Pasco was thronged by all the elite of Queretaro:
richly-caparisoned barbs were jingling musically with multitudes of
little steel or silver drops attached to the housings; pacing, and
fretting, and foaming, full of fire and spirit, but curbed and trained
to short steps. Then came the well-appointed carriages of the President
or Governor, drawn by sleek fat mules, and close behind cumbrous masses
of timber--hewn wheels and axles lashed together with hides--all hitched
by ropes to half a dozen, or more, dirty beasts; the vehicles themselves
filled with rare specimens of fat old women, decked off in gay
haberdashery, each holding an armful of children, all bent upon a good
sight of the North Americans. And there were youthful faces too--bright
glances from brighter eyes--emulating those aged matrons in curiosity,
peering from behind waving fans, within long lines of carriages drawn up
at the sides of the promenade. Nor had the _Gringos_ aught to fear from
the investigation, for there were handsome young dragoons and riflemen,
attended by their orderlies, mounted on noble chargers with arched necks
and shining coats, moving with a high, proud bearing, as if regarding
with great contempt the capering graces of their little brethren beside
them.
After a number of turns around the park--the last at a thundering
gallop, with a stride that made the natives shudder--we dashed out of
the gates. On our way through the city, one of our Mexican friends
espied me, and in true Californian style, shook his bridle, gave spur,
and came leaping like a flash towards us. I was not a novice at the
sport, and touching one of the finest horses in the army with my heel,
the gallant sorrel sprang forward to greet him. We met in full career,
my charger stood like the great pyramid, but the shock rolled my
antagonist into the street. I should in courtesy have got down from the
saddle to his assistance, but reflecting that without a ladder I never
should be able to get on my high steed again, I accordingly remained
quiet. However, my friend quickly remounted, and made an earnest attempt
to laugh; but as there chanced to be hundreds of spectators, I hardly
thought the mirth reached his heart: he may have been somewhat allegro
from the good cheer at breakfast, or have eaten something indigestible,
yet under either dispensation, it will caution him not to run another
joust at a Kentucky-bred charger, or he may, as in this instance, get
tilted from the saddle. Being a sailor, I gained a great reputation for
this feat, and gave an entertainment on the strength of it.
Some days elapsed after the Treaty had finally been acted upon in the
Mexican Senate, before the ratifications were exchanged. Mexican
diplomacy is proverbial, and they chose the most tortuous track to gain
the goal. The delay was in some degree attributable, so said the
Government, to the absence of the official seal, and certain time
required to make proper copies and translations; but it was with equal
reason surmised, that it arose from causes relative to a division of the
first instalment of the indemnity, as a new ministry was to be elected,
and the old cared not to assume the odium of signing the Peace, without
being fortified with the assurances of their successors that they should
receive the reward of their services. But here subterfuge was
unavailing--the armistice expired on the 2d of June, and time was
flying. At length, after refusing permission for the American cavalry
and artillery to take up their line of march by land to the Northern
frontier, on the night of the 30th of May, the final signatures were
affixed to the Treaty, and an hour later, Herrera was chosen President
of the Republic.
Soon after midnight, with a copy of this document in my jacket, and a
promise, from the Secretary of War, of an escort for ten leagues, I once
more began my journey towards the Pacific Ocean.