Early in the month of May, the Ohio, 74, arrived at Mazatlan. On the
8th, I was ordered to prepare for a journey to the city of Mexico--my
preparations were made in five minutes; merely a saddle, sabre, spurs,
pistols, undress jacket, riding trowsers and serapa. The same night I
rode to the Presidio, where General Anaya politely furnished me with a
special passport, and afforded every facility to expedite the journey
through his immediate command. Returning to the port at daylight, a
letter of credit awaited me, which, with a dispatch enclosed in oiled
silk and concealed in the lining of my jacket, completed my
arrangements. A ship of war had been ordered to land me at San Blas, a
port some one hundred and thirty miles down the coast, and considered
the nearest practicable route to Mexico. I was to be accompanied by a
Mexican officer, a dark pop-eyed little man, of a quiet and gentlemanly
demeanor, who was bound on a mission to his own government, and took
passage with us in the frigate.
Attended by light flyaway airs and calms, we were nearly three days in
accomplishing the short distance of the voyage, and it was not until
nightfall of the 13th, that the good ship lay becalmed a few miles from
the shore. With my fellow traveller, I was tossed into a boat, and after
a smart pull of two hours, we were safely landed up a narrow estero, on
the banks of which was placed the little town of San Blas, apparently
overstocked with musquitos. A letter to a Chinaman, named Passio, made
him yell for his servants; before midnight had struck, after embracing a
number of officers from two of our ships at anchor there, we went pacing
away through the thick foliage, answering to the echo the loud shouts of
the friends left behind--it was thus began my rough notes and jolts on a
Mexican saddle. We were accompanied by a guide, and a pack-mule for my
companion's portmanteau. My wardrobe did not require one--consisting of
two shirts and a tooth-brush.
The horse I bestrode was not very beautiful to behold, certainly--being
what is technically termed in animal structure--a singed cat; but
nevertheless he rattled along bravely, without a jolt, plunge, or
stumble, and we got on famously together. We contrived to while away
miles and hours, coursing along the _marismas_ of the sea, with a clear
bright moon to light us; or winding through magnificent forests of
sycamore and pine, beneath dense thickets, arched with vines, cactus and
acacia;--grouped here and there with palmettos, or cocoanuts, crackling
in the breeze--and looking for all the world like long-legged
trowserless turbaned Turks. The scene was quite exhilarating, and even
my comrade allowed his huge moustache to be parted; but whether owing to
the pure air, and excitement of the ride, or the yet purer brandy from
his _alforgas_, his hitherto taciturn tongue was let loose, and we
became bosom friends on the spot. He had put sufficient in his mouth to
steel away his brains, and not a little to my surprise--though I
expressed none--he shortly proposed to me a capital plan of cheating the
government: that by keeping together--he being empowered to take horses
for nothing--we might charge the full amount, and halve the proceeds. I
readily assented, sealed the bargain by a squeeze that nearly wrenched
him from the saddle, and resolved to cut his fascinating society at the
first convenient opportunity. This gentleman bore the reputation of
being one out of a few honest officers in the Mexican army. However, it
is but justice to state that these little sins of commission are not
regarded in so serious a light as with us; although I could not help
speculating on the beautiful moral attributes possessed by the remainder
of the army. They have a very trite saying, which hits their case
precisely: _Primero jo, pues mi padre_--me first, then daddy.
At about three o'clock we had left the grounds bordering upon the ocean,
for the first step to the temperate terrace. Alighting at a large
rancho, we unceremoniously aroused some sleeping figures--had a mess of
scrambled eggs--thence to horse again. We soon gained the highland, by
bridle-paths skirting along crests of hills and ravines, until daylight
found us ambling from one to the other, in an everlasting up-and-down
route, both tiresome and monotonous. Eight leagues of this work brought
us to the more elevated region of the plateau--a more open country, with
now and then a rancho--cultivated fields--broader roads, and all the
signs of approaching a large town; then in a moment the view opened upon
a broad, lovely plain, framed in by three noble swells of sierras, and
before us lay long lines of buildings and gardens, with a thin stream
winding down the slopes, like a white thread--and this was Tepic.
Leaving my companero at a meson, I swung myself from the saddle, after a
twenty-eight leagues ride, within the spacious _patio_ of an American
gentleman's house, to whom I was regularly endorsed--Mr. Bissell. He
received me in the kindest manner possible--washed, shaved and
breakfasted me, and put all in train for a renewed start by night. We
called on the Commandante Aristi, who declared the inexpressible
pleasure he experienced at the sight of me, signed my passport, and
bowed us most politely out of the house, even to the furthermost
door-step. This state visit over, I took a sound nap, and was aroused in
season for a bath. We rode to the green suburbs of the town, where were
nice thatched sheds stretching half way over a rapid stream. After a
refreshing swim, and a sip of lemonade filled with caraway seeds, we
returned to dine on delightful brook trout, and pleasant vinous
accompaniments. The horses were again equipped, and making a tour of the
city, we stopped at the cotton mills belonging to the wealthy English
house of Barron, Forbes & Co. The _Fabrica_ stands at the base of a
steep hillete--composed of large white buildings, encircled by high
walls on three sides, and the fourth facing an impetuous torrent, from
which a strong body of water is diverted to drive the machinery. The
banks were handsomely walled up, and laid out in parterres, prettily
planted with shrubbery, all bearing the impress of great care and
beauty. Further down the stream was an extensive garden, with broad
alleys, arbors and spacious tanks, teeming with fruits, flowers and
exotics of the rarest kinds.
The senior owner of the manufactory, Mr. Forbes, did the honor to play
cicerone, and take me over the works. There were about five thousand
spindles in operation; then working day and night. The machinery was a
beautiful specimen of American ingenuity; nearly all the overseers, and
the intelligent superintendent, Mr. Whiting, boasted of the same origin.
None but coarser fabrics, suitable for the Mexican market, were milled;
but the profits were enormous, having netted the previous year a
fraction less than two hundred thousand dollars. The operatives were
all natives; and although, I was told, without the wish or energy to
rise, still they did very well in the work required.
I never saw out of Europe or the United States, or Continental America,
or in even the British Colonies, such extensive improvements keeping so
close a wake to the rushing march of the age; all, however, begun and
matured by the indomitable skill and enterprise of the intelligent
owners.
I left Tepic two hours before midnight, and made all sail under a heavy
press of spurs and stirrups. I said adios to the _Capitan_, who assured
me his frame was deplorably jolted, and that he felt unable to proceed.
The fact was, the Don carried too much weight for anything beyond a
quarter stretch. I was recompensed for the loss of his society by the
attendance of two dark _mozos_ as guides, and three spare horses; but
with the beasts I must confess having been decidedly duped: I booked
them to Guadalajara, but they were neither swift nor well gaited. My
attendants expressed great regret, as a matter of course, which did not
prevent the avalanche of blessings with which they were indulged. At
sunrise we dismounted a minute, for coffee, at a small village, with an
unpronouncable jaw-cracking Indian name. It was a very pretty spot,
shrubby and treesy, with a noisy rivulet washing the door-steps of an
old ruined chapel. A barefooted damsel was quite attentive to my
pencilling occupations, and with an inquisitive frown and nod, as much
as to inquire--"What on earth is he about?"--handed me a little glazed
pot of wheat-coffee; but being a courier of the grand route, and having
no time to satisfy the muchachita'a curiosity, I swallowed the beverage,
threw her a peseta, and while she was hunting for the change, we were in
the saddle and off. At ten of the clock we halted at the hamlet of
Ocultilti, in front of a little mud-built _fonda_, where, for a Mexican
miracle, was laid a tolerably clean cloth upon a table. The road thus
far had been hilly and rugged, and the last five miles a tedious clamber
over a mountain-pass. My horses had given out, and I felt a strong
inclination to shoot the lying guides for imposing on me; but the
patrona of the inn sent every boy in the place scampering in search of
fresh horses, while she busied herself at the fire getting a breakfast
of everlasting _frijoles_. In reply to my anxiety for more beasts, she
continually repeated--_Quien sabe! hay muchos! si Senor!_--in this part
of Mexico the oft-repeated exclamation--Who knows! there are thousands!
Presently appeared two ragged, filthy Indians. They approached each
other, tipped their broad sombreros, at an angle like to the rings of
Saturn. _Como esta vd? Muy bueno! Me allegro, y la familia? Para servir
vd!_ They kept up this strain of compliment for ten minutes, neither
letting go hands nor hats--until my patience becoming exhausted at such
fatiguing politeness--I let the lash of my whip fall lovingly around
their legs. "I say, my fine fellows, are there any horses to be had?"
_Quien sabe! Senor, hay muchos!_ they both replied in a breath; but
nothing more satisfactory could I learn. The boys never came back! the
mistress became less civil after getting paid for her breakfasts; and
after vainly waiting an hour, I felt convinced there was not a
four-legged brute in the hamlet, or that the two-legged ones were too
lazy to find them. Selecting the best of our spavined jades, we stumped
slowly on, and a league beyond came to a post-house; here a good-natured
dame, in the absence of her helpmate, mounted a mule, and soon drove up
a cavallada. Transferring the saddles to better beasts, and followed by
a diminutive elf, to bring them back, we continued our journey. The
roads became smoother, and less broken; the country presented a more
smiling aspect: green fields of grain, and cultivated plantations of the
argave, covered the sides of hills and valleys. Pursuing a course
through a well-watered district, without any evidences visible of
volcanic origin, our road was suddenly closed by a very curious lava
formation--an elevation not in the highest parts more than eighty
feet--springing strangely and abruptly from the table land of the vale.
There were acres upon acres of black volcanic masses thrown up into the
most fantastic shapes; there were churches and altars, castles and
coaches, figures of men and monkeys--with clusters of straight, slender
cactus, in full flower, shooting far above all--rearing their white and
red torch-like heads, as if to light up the black congregation below;
which from a distance struck me as bearing a miniature resemblance to
the Giant's Causeway. We passed this barrier, over a deep cut of
slippery aqueous lava, when we again debouched into the _vega_, took a
lave in a cool, clear torrent, and then came on at a great pace to the
town of Aguacatlan.
From a hasty glance it appeared a nice place, and we drew up at a
spacious meson, facing a pretty plaza, lined by magnificent rows of
elms, with a handsome church in front. All looked gay withal: troops of
vagabonds and girls were passing and repassing the portals. In a lofty
hall of the Fonda, I had an excellent supper, washed down by a flask of
capital bordeaux, which, the maestro informed me, had lain an unsaleable
drug on his hands for eleven years. Passing from the sala to a shop in
the building, I found a crowd of idlers, absorbing cigarillos and
hearkening to the harangue of a stout fellow, shrouded in a seedy
serapa: he was striving to awaken their patriotism by violently
declaiming against the policy, of the Mexican government, for tolerating
an idea of peace, and lavishing a fair share of abuse upon the Yankees.
_Christo! Senores!_ said he, "why didn't General _Skote_ attack Pinon,
where all was prepared for him, instead of creeping around the valley to
Churubusco? Answer me that! _Porque Senores los Yankis son cobardes!
todos! toditos!_"--Because every mother's son of the Americans were
cowards. Upon the conclusion of this speech, he honored me with a
close inspection, and apparently not being satisfied, touched his
castor by way of formal introduction. "Capitan," he suggested,
"you belong to the cavalry." I nodded. "Ay, he knew that by my
_divisas_--shoulder-straps--but he mistook me at first for one of the
San Patricios. Where was I bound?" I shrugged my shoulders. "Did I know
Mazatlan?" I had been there. This last admission quite won his
confidence; so, grasping me by the elbow, he drew me aside, and informed
me that he was on a mission to that port for the purchase of arms to put
in the hands of flaming red-hot patriots in Guadalajara; and that any
intelligence to further his designs would be highly acceptable. I, of
course, gave him all necessary information, and at the same time dropt a
line by the post, which was the means of giving him an opportunity to
inspect vacant apartments in the _carcel_, for some weeks after his
arrival. Having no more time to waste, I left the good people to pump my
_mozos_, whilst I took a short nap.
Before midnight, nerved by a cup of strong coffee, we mounted, and six
leagues of rapid riding carried us to the post-house of Istlan. There
was just light enough by the moon to reveal all the quiet beauty of the
little town. The square was deserted; not a dog bayed; the noble trees
with drooping branches reposed motionless in the air; not a sound was
heard but the uneasy plashing of the sparkling fountain in the centre;
and there was not a vestige of life, save a solitary twinkling taper
that shone through the open door of the post-house. Our shouts echoed
back from the tall walls of the church on the opposite side of the
plaza, and soon brought a gruff personage to the street. It was the
_administrador_ himself. He inquired, what _demonios_ dared to raise
such a din, when his venerable sire, Don Pancho, was stretched upon the
bier, and masses to be said for his soul as soon as day dawned? I have
ever remarked, that the safest mode of treating perverse, obstinate
persons, who are resolved to quarrel, is to approach close to them, in a
moral sense, and--like to dealing with a fierce ram by patting him on
the tail--they have no space to rear and pitch into one. It is time
enough to bid defiance when this system fails. Bowing to the saddle-bow,
hat in hand, I thus began: "Pardon me, my good friend! had we known of
your bereavement, be assured we should have torn our teeth out, rather
than have disturbed your grief: we are bound _extraordinario_! If there
be no horses, at least oblige us with a cup of water to wash down a
measure of this oily _licor_ from the grand Meson of Aguacatlan, and
oblige us by touching it first to your own lips!" I saw by the moon's
silver beams athwart his rubicund visage, that he relented; whereupon,
paying him some sorrowful compliments upon the demise of his aged
parent, I quite conquered his anger. Leaving me in charge of the defunct
old gentleman, I puffed a cigarillo, while he went to get beasts for the
guides, and his own mule for my use, as he assured me, _bueno y muy
vivo_--lively as a cricket. In a few minutes we were again upon the
road. Skirting along the banks of a small river for a couple of leagues,
we then crossed to the opposite side, where hills arose in endless
succession, soaring to the clouds in the distance, and where we were
destined to pass. It was the _Plan de Barrancas_. I had for the past
hour been venting maledictions on the administrador and his _vivo_
mule, for I never saw any but monks and muleteers who properly
understand their peculiar management. To one, like myself, ignorant of
the habits of these quadrupeds--never mind how expert a horseman he may
be--if they ever be urged out of their usual amble on a level space,
their gallop is such a jerking short pace, that the inexperienced rider
will be kept alternately shifting his position from withers to rump, at
every stride. But commend me to a good mule; over a broken country,
where their delicate little hoofs find a secure foothold over shelving
rocks, or upon the brink of a yawning precipice, where you drop the
bridle, close your eyes and offer up an orison for your blessed mule to
bear you safely. And with what sagacity they feel their way, and how
often an imprudent rider will find cause to bless his stars that the
wilful little beast takes the bit in the mouth, and obstinately pursues
his own path! However, as I said before, they are not pleasant animals
when the danger is passed; then they become at times unreasonably
perverse, and persuasions, punchings, or spurrings, only serve to
exhaust strength and temper, without any avail.
Our speed became necessarily slow, the country more and more barren, and
the paths stony and uneven; still we passed from height to height,
gradually ascending, until we came to the base of the great _Barrancas_.
Here, much to my surprise, commenced a well-constructed military road,
very broad, and coped in by a wall of loose stones, winding around the
eastern brow of the _sierra_. In some places near the summit, I am
confident, a dollar could be thrown four thousand feet before striking
the base of the gorge that splits the great chain, asunder. The view was
bird-eyish, and rather good--with the bright green dells below, in
pretty contrast to the red basaltic rocks above--but limited by peaks of
the surrounding heights. The road itself is a far more substantial work
than the traveller is prepared to meet with in this part of Mexico,
where everything relative to easy locomotion appears to have been left
as nature and the mules will it. Still, but little reputation is lost in
the way of consistency; for the moment the mountain is passed, the route
again becomes little better than a sheep path. Although crossing this
fine road caused me some astonishment; yet a little before, I was thrown
into a stupor of amazement, to behold lying in the pathway a long iron
thirty-two pounder gun, of the heaviest ship's calibre and weight! My
_mozos_ informed me, that this was the only one out of six that did not
reach Guadalajara from San Blas--a distance of more than three hundred
miles! They were intended for service in battery, during the revolt of
1825. Each was under the guidance of one hundred and fifty Indians with
animals, and it occupied many months in accomplishing the transit; but
notwithstanding these ample means, I'll venture to affirm that no one in
his natural senses, after making the journey, could be induced to
believe that anything greater than a mule-pack--to say nothing of an
enormous piece of ordnance--could be transported over such numbers of
streams, ravines, paths and mountains! The thing seems nearly
impossible.
We toiled over the Barrancas--threaded the valleys below, when taking
another ascent, we attained a level, barren uncultivated region, and
shortly drew bridles at the great Meson of _Muchatilta_. From an outside
view of the spacious inn--its fanciful frescos, and highly brilliant
exterior--we reasonably inferred that something even more delectable
might be found within. Yet although the patrona was neither ill-looking
nor ill-natured, she _siento 'd muchissimo_, and still declared there
was naught more palatable than _frijoles_. However, our appetites were
keen, and we made a good deal go a little way, for we had ridden
nineteen leagues since midnight. Bidding adieu to my _vivo_ mule, by
patting his sleek neck--not the least the worse for his work, while the
horses were well nigh done up,--I gave him a loaf of bread, in gratitude
for bearing me safely. With a fresh relay of horses, and the sun on the
meridian, we left the brightly-painted meson, and continued our journey.
Ever since mounting up to the _tierra templada_, near Tepic, the climate
had been delightful--neither uncomfortably warm during the day, nor too
cool to travel with a serapa at night. By urging our cattle we made ten
leagues, and reached the town of Madalena at twilight, where a stubborn
old administrador refused to give me a change of horses. The fact was I
deceived myself, in supposing the journey could be made as quickly by
taking a cavallada from one city to another, as by the government post;
and through ignorance of the formalities, I had omitted to take out a
license. It is a very simple process, and consists in merely paying
exorbitantly, at about the rate of a third of a dollar per league for
the privilege of demanding beasts from agents on the roads--that is
supposing they are to be had, and generally they are not; but if there
chance to be found any beasts in the corral, they are such horrid
brutes, as not to be worth, even to a cunning cabman, the rial you are
to pay per league. These are the animals pertaining to the Republic.
After a mournful inspection of their raw hides and protruding ribs, the
administrador may possibly hint that if the traveller requires a good
horse there are two or three belonging to a neighbor that might be
procured by paying over and over the legal charge. This system of
corruption is the chief cause of the heavy expense of travelling in
Mexico: honesty in its lightest sense is unknown, and the principle
throughout nearly all classes is one of fraud and extortion. Indeed if
the rage for foreign travel ever leads our rising generations to extend
their tours to these lands, their respectable governors will deserve
much sympathy on cashing the bills, and perhaps be induced to believe
that their progeny have fallen among the Philistines.
Finding nothing was to be gained from the Madelena proprietor of
horse-flesh, I betook myself to the Alcalde; my special passport making
it imperative on all military and civil authorities to afford me succor,
sustenance, and all sorts of _ausilios_--that is if they deemed
advisable;--but I depended more upon the yellow oncas in my
trowsers-pocket, which gave a zest to their exertions, and did not
render them lukewarm in complying with the orders conveyed in the
passport. The townspeople were under arms, and a guard of some thirty
paisanos were assembled outside the courtroom. They received me with a
"present arms," and one adept in soldiership let his musket fall to the
stone floor, exploding the piece, and driving a mass of paper wads, and
a quantity of slugs, over the gateway; whereupon they all put by their
weapons, and whacked the unfortunate victim over the head with sabres.
My terror subsiding, I presented myself to the Alcalde, whom I
found--_mirabile dictu_--quite a civil, intelligent young man. He
informed me that a strong body of highwaymen had occupied a hill within
a league of the town, and every evening succeeded in carrying off what
they required, by breaking into houses, maltreating the residents, and
robbing every man, woman, and child on the road. He strongly urged me to
defer my journey until troops which were expected, could arrive, and in
this he was seconded by a number of travellers, who were also awaiting
safe convoy. The advice, though well intended, was far from changing my
purpose to proceed, and after receipting for the value of the horses in
case of capture, I prepared for a start. There being no regular soldiers
in the place, no money could induce the timid paisanos to act as escort;
and then I began to discover the true value of my guides. They had been
under the ban of my displeasure for cheating me with their beasts; but
they had determined faces, and in reply to my question if they intended
to fight, both exclaimed, _Hasta muerto! Senor_--until death!--this
restored them to favor. Entrusting each with a sum of money, I drew the
loads from their carbines, carefully recharged them with balls and
buck-shot, looked to my own pistols, and mounted. Moving quietly through
the back streets of the town, we struck the main road, where we
encountered a poor Padre who had been robbed of seventeen dollars,
relieved of his mule, and stripped of all his raiment, save gown and
cravat. _Santa Maria!_ said my _mozos_--"no respect for the church!" The
good priest gave us his blessing, and the exact position of the
villains. _Adios, mi padre!_ It was eleven at night, the moon was
rising, and we kept the horses nearly as possible in the shade of the
roadside foliage--going very leisurely--until on the slope of a hill to
the right, we saw a number of fires casting a lurid blaze around, and
figures moving before them. Approaching nearer, a din of shouts,
chaunts, and laughter, saluted our ears, for the rogues were evidently
making merry over their potations. The road sounded hollow over the hard
clay, and on descending a narrow canal-like passage, that just left our
heads visible above, we unslung carbines, and with cocked weapons, I
gave the word--_Vamanos_--let us fly. The noise of horses' hoofs
thundering over the hard ground instantly attracted attention; we were
greeted by loud yells of _Quien es? halta! halta!_--and plainly saw a
score or more running to intercept us, with the barrels of their arms
glancing in the moonlight; but deuce the syllable did we utter, but
driving the spur yet deeper into our steeds, we went flying along,
single file; in thirty seconds we were shielded by a high wall of rocks,
and in a short time had lost sight and sound of our pursuers. I think
they were quite unprepared for travellers at so late an hour, or our
flight could easily have been barred. Yet it is anything else than a
joke, to be encircled by a legion of these scamps--stripped stark
naked--certainly beaten and robbed--or perhaps shot. Besides there are
so many nice secluded spots, where, like Fra Diavolo, "on a rock
reclining," behind a jutting ledge, or precipice, these rascals could
insinuate the dark barrel of a carbine in one's ear, and cry
_Entregarse, o no la Vida!_--surrender, or your life!--Not pleasant,
surely, and I was delighted to escape scot free--clothed in my breeks.
At full gallop we rode into the town of Tequilla: considerably fatigued,
for I had not slept in forty hours, excepting perhaps now and then a
brief cat-nap in the saddle--of a second or two duration--wherein one
may dream of years of adventure. However, I determined to hold on twelve
leagues beyond, to Guadalajara. It was daylight, and I found Tequilla
quite a large place: with picturesque church, clusters of fine trees,
all snugly posed in a bowl-like valley--fertile and well watered, with
extensive plantations of the _argave_ extending far as the eye could
compass, over the neighboring country.
Whilst a relay of horses were being sent for, the landlord of the meson
accompanied me to a running brook, where I cooled my jolted
frame--swallowed a bowl of coffee, lit a cigar, and learned that we were
the first travellers who had passed in five days, and that a detachment
of cavalry was hourly looked for, to dislodge the rogues near Madelena.
Feeling now indifferent about the matter, we got into the saddle, and
once more gave spur towards our destination. The road was tolerable, the
horses were better, and the country became more populous. Once the
grateful steam of fried fish involuntarily caused me to halt for a hasty
breakfast; but it was only for a moment--when on we rushed, up hill and
down slope, splashing over water-courses--passing huge, ungainly carts,
with hewn timber wheels, creaking and groaning to market, while vehicles
also of a more modern build lumbered slowly along, with six or eight
mules ahead. Then I doffed my sombrero to a gay young officer in advance
of a well-appointed troop of cavalry, and, with horses white with foam,
we dismounted at the outer garita of Guadalajara. It was a small village
and military post, seven leagues from the city, having a great stone
arch and gateway commanding the road. Another relay, and an hour's
gallop brought the spires and towers of the goodly town in
sight--standing in the midst of an immense plain, and watered by a
branch of the Rio Grande. Passing through a town, with a noble church
and convent, we crossed the river by a substantial stone bridge, where
stood statues of Santa Anna and other patriots, with their noses knocked
off, and faces otherwise scarified. After being detained for inspection
at a guardhouse, we entered the city proper, through long lines of paved
streets, until we pulled up in front of the palace, at the house of Don
Domingo Llamas, to whom I had letters.