Mazatlan lies in latitude 23 deg. 12' N. verging on the tropic, flanked by a
broad belt, ten leagues wide, of the _Tierra Caliente_, with the lofty
mountains that support the elevated terraces and grand plateau of the
interior plainly visible in the background. The town is built upon a
triangular space formed by three hills at the angles, the apex a bluff
promontory, extending seaward, and beyond two small islets, barely
divided from the frowning helmet of Creston. These salient points form
together a bold, rocky partition, which with another parallel barrier to
the eastward, breaks off the ocean swell, sufficiently to admit of a
secure anchorage from all but southerly winds. This is called the New
Port. Right and left of the town are curving sandy beaches; the one
abreast the New Port, protected by a sand-bar, that incloses a safe
haven for small vessels; then further, a wide _estero_, or inlet, runs
inland, following the bend of the coast for sixty miles to the
southward; while one channel branches away to the west, encircles
Mazatlan, and passing some miles in a line with the sea, is only
prevented from again meeting the ocean by a narrow strip of marsh and
sand. To the right of the town commences a small patch of sand called
_Olas Altas_, whereon some of the best buildings are situated; beyond is
an abrupt dome-like elevation; and then farther still, is a narrow
indentation, formerly used as the Puerto Viejo; when the beach
continues in a gentle curve, as far as the eye can reach, up the gulf,
to the northward.
In the year 1830, Mazatlan was a miserable Indian fishing village; but
owing to its advantageous position in affording a better harbor, and
fresh water, than existed for large vessels north of Acapulco--its
facilities for communication with the rich mining districts of
Zacatecas, Durango and Culiacan, besides the market opened in the
populous provinces bordering upon the Pacific, it soon increased in
magnitude to a fine thriving little city of ten thousand inhabitants,
and became the most important commercial point on the continent north of
the equator.
Sailing from the Bay of San Jose, in company with the frigate Congress,
and corvette Cyane, we crossed the Californian Gulf, and made the land
on the afternoon of November 11th. The sea breeze set in late, and the
sun was down upon arriving at the Venados Islands. The ships were
together, and having each a position assigned, the Independence passed
ahead, and standing boldly in, anchored abreast the Olas Altas beach,
within half musket-shot of the shore. The Congress came to anchor in the
old port, commanding the old road and garita, while the Cyane brought
her guns to bear upon the eastern face of the town, from the new
anchorage.
All remained quiet during the night on shore; the boats of the squadron
were gotten in the water; batteries in fighting order; guns cast loose
and trained; besides whole hail-storms of round shot, shells, grape, and
divers other sorts of deadly pyrotechny, piled in stacks and racks,
around the decks, all ready at a moment's warning to knock the town to
dust. At sunrise a flag of truce was sent to summon the authorities. The
Commandante Telles, in consequence of fatigue caused by galloping about
the place, and brandy, did not appear, but delegated his officials to
inform the American cartel, that he could not reconcile with it his
honor to receive our officers, and to inform El Senor Commodore that he
saw no necessity for surrendering Mazatlan, but the same time he should
retire to his camp at the Palos Prietos, beyond the environs, where he
would await the ruthless invaders.
Four hours were given for deliberation; we were told subsequently, that
they anticipated four weeks, with the privilege of breaking off
negociations at the end of that period. Before the time had expired, the
companies for landing were ready in the boats, and the artillery
awaiting the stroke of the bell to begin the ball; but presently there
came alongside a dapper little personage, with intelligence that the
Mexican troops had entirely deserted the town, and no resistance would
be offered by the inhabitants. After all the trouble we were a little
disappointed, and even Uncle Ben Bunker, our worthy gunner, was quite
exasperated, being obliged to stow away his fire-works, and secure the
guns, for a more remote occasion.
The flotilla of twenty-nine boats had assembled around the flag ship,
and, headed by the Commodore, we pulled between Creston and the Main,
and made for the mole. Not a bayonet was visible. A concourse of persons
lined the beach, who merely gratified their curiosity by scowling upon
us, as the boats came to land and emptied their loads. In ten minutes
our flag was flying over the town, and twenty-one guns saluted it from
the Independence. Field-pieces were then disembarked, placed in
position, the men wheeled into column, the band struck up, and away we
marched through Mazatlan. The house-tops were crowded with veiled
faces; but upon so slight an acquaintance we found difficulty in putting
in even a wink, except at rare intervals. We reached the Cuartel, a
large square building for barracks and citadel, situated on a slight
eminence in rear of the town, and commanding the main roads to the
interior. The sailors and marines were soon quartered, guns planted, and
all preparations made to resist an attack. Three hundred were detailed
for garrison, and the remainder sent on board. From appearances, the
Mexicans had departed with great precipitation, leaving many of their
accoutrements, some hundred stand of rifles and muskets, saddles, and a
few pieces of artillery. Their whole force was about eight hundred, more
than half regulars, and had they chosen to stand their ground, we should
have suffered severely, although not perhaps repulsed. Telles and his
troops were posted a league up the road, near the forest of Palos
Prietos, and it was stated that his intention was to assault us; but we
experienced no alarm on that score, feeling assured that, after
relinquishing all their advantages in position, they could have no
further wish to retake them.
The first few days we were occupied making reconnoissances in the
neighborhood. Two positions were selected for fortifications: the one, a
steep hill, overlooking the estero; and the other, a lower eminence,
entirely guarding the main and only approach for cavalry by land to the
port. This was the Garita. Between these two points, in former times, a
line had been marked out, faced by a broad and deep ditch, intended to
connect the western branch of the inlet with the sea, thus cutting the
town entirely off from the main land; but the excavation had only been
completed as far as the Garita road, leaving, however, but a narrow
causeway open.
Heavy ordnance, long twenty-four pounders, with carriages and wheels,
mortars, and lighter guns, were brought ashore from the ships; and as
they were drawn through the streets, by the stout arms and shouts of
hundreds of sailors, the inhabitants fairly looked astounded. In a short
time these heavy monsters were staring, with their dark cavernous
mouths, from the esplanade of the Cuartel. Picks, shovels and barrows
went briskly to work; ditches, walls and parapets were commenced, and
went on unceasingly for many months.
Previous to our coming, a great number of the more respectable residents
had retired to their estates, or the towns in the vicinity; but upon
finding that the North Americans were not such outrageous invaders as
they had been led to believe, gradually these families returned to their
homes in Mazatlan. Meanwhile, a military and civil Governor and
Lieutenant Governor[3] had been appointed, and an _ayuntamiento_ called
from among the citizens, with commissioners on our side, to arrange
preliminaries for the municipal administration of the town. This proved
to be a matter of very difficult adjustment. The _junta_ were averse to
removing the _alcobala_--a tax levied upon provisions and produce
entering the gates--at all times a burdensome and unequal extortion,
falling upon the poor: this was at last yielded, and it, of course,
became a very popular measure, although with little real benefit; for
the producers themselves were compelled to suffer severely from the
rapacity of their own troops outside. The President of the Council was
Senor Crespo, a very respectable, honest person; and could he have been
induced to fill the post, saving a few illiberal ideas and fears of
compromising himself with his former friends outside, all would have
gone on smoothly; but he refused to serve, and Senores Pelaiz and Leon
were appointed to preside over the civil tribunals. This caused
dissatisfaction, as neither had a surplus of moral character to boast
of; but as the commodity was scarce, the judgeships would have remained
vacant a long while, before more suitable selections could have been
found among the Mexicans. Nevertheless, the policy pursued by us became
popular with all classes, and there were but few exceptions to the
general wish, that our flag might float over them forever. What tended
in a great measure to revive confidence among the wealthier inhabitants,
was our manner of conducting business at the custom house. The scale of
duties, as exhibited by the Secretary of the Treasury, was modified to
suit this market, and, in the absence of all bribery and corruption, it
restored a certain harmony of association among the merchants, which,
necessarily, was interrupted by the Mexican policy of holding out
inducements for every trader to undersell his neighbor; when all were
constantly intriguing with the government _empleados_ to get their
cargoes through the customs, at a lower mark than usual. This system was
done away with, trade was thrown upon an assured basis, and it
consequently encouraged a more friendly intercourse. As a single
instance of the rapacity and extortion practiced by the Mazatlanese
authorities displaced by us, there were five-and-twenty officials
employed within the custom house; and of a yearly revenue averaging
nearly a million of dollars, not a rial ever went to the general
government. In the first place, the Mexican tariff was frequently so
heavy as to amount to prohibition, and to save time and the risk of
smuggling, it was only necessary to throw a third or fourth of the
duties into the commandante's or collector's hands, who, in turn, made
a smaller distribution to the cormorants beneath them. Telles had it in
his power to have laid by half a million of money, but it all went like
water through his fingers, and he fled as poor as he began.
There were no restrictions placed upon the liberties or pleasures of the
people. They had justice by their own laws. We preserved order. Patrols
and police parties perambulated the town night and day. After _oracion_
had tolled, no person was permitted to enter or leave the Garita until
sunrise, without the risk of a bullet in his body! for sentinels were
doubled at night, and mounted pickets guarded the great ditch towards
the _estero_. No arms were permitted to be carried by citizens, and both
gentlemen and _paisanos_ were obliged to leave them, upon entering the
town, at the Garita.
There was but one church in Mazatlan, for the people are not piously
inclined, and one Padre was all we ever saw; and him the girls called
Father Windmill. The only good public edifice is the _Duana_. The houses
generally are of one story, built of bricks, or adobies, and plastered
over; but all the wealthy residents have fine, cool and spacious
dwellings, with flat roofs, which command pleasant views of the sea and
environs. The streets are wide, having trottoirs, tolerably well paved
and lighted. There are two small plazas, many very handsome shops, cafes
and _sociedads_. Altogether, we found ourselves in a modern little city,
and much nearer civilisation than in the mushroom settlements of
California.
The climate is very warm in the morning, though tempered by cooling
breezes from the ocean towards afternoon. After the summer rains have
passed, much sickness prevails, owing to the malaria that is generated
from the wet, marshy plains and lagoons around the town. Congestive
fevers and agues are then quite common, and the wealthier orders retire
to the high lands of the interior.
FOOTNOTE:
[3] The last named appointment was ably filled by Lieut. Halleck, of U.
S. Engineers, who, from his military and scientific knowledge, was of
the greatest assistance to the expedition.