There can be no greater satisfaction to a wind-buffetted rover, than
sailing into a new place, and the consolation of knowing there are still
others behind the curtain. It was thus we felt, and after rounding the
Point of Angels, and casting anchor in the Bay of Paradise, fancied
ourselves quite in altissimo spirits, if not precisely in cielo.
On approaching the Chilian coast, the eye of course seeks the
white-robed Cordilleras, and well worthy the sight they are--forty
leagues inland, cutting the sky in sharp, clear outlines, with peaks of
frosted silver, until the attention is fairly arrested by the stupendous
peak of the Bell of Quillota, and Tupongati, the colossus of all,
tumbling as it were, from the very zenith--then nearer, diminuendoing
down to the ocean, are generations of lesser heights, each, however, a
giant in itself, until their bases are laved by the Pacific. It is a
grand _coup d'oeil_ at rise or set of sun; but there is a sameness
about masses of reddish rocks, ravines and mountains of the foreground,
and one is apt to doubt the immense height of those beyond, from the
gradual rise around. Moreover, there is nothing striking or diversified,
as with their tall brothers in Switzerland or Asia; snowy tops without
glaciers; frightful chasms, and sweeping valleys, without torrents or
verdure; all this is nature's design, but the decorations have been
forgotten, and bare walls of mount and deep is all that appears
finished.
Little can be said commendatory of Valparaiso; and truly I think the
most rabid of limners would meet with difficulty in getting an outside
view from any point; for, owing to formation of the land, furrowed into
scores of ravines by the rush and wash of creation, with the town
running oddly enough along the ridges, or down in the gullies, it
becomes a matter of optical skill, for a single pair of eyes to compass
more than a small portion at a glance.
The houses are mean; streets narrow and nasty; the former are built of
adobies--unbaked bricks of great thickness--or lathed, plastered and
stuccoed; the latter paved with small pebbles no bigger than pigeons'
eggs, and only those running with the shores of the bay, are at all
walkable. A little way back in the _quebradas_, or broken ground, is
like stepping over angular Flemish roofs, and with a long leg and short
one, to preserve an equipoise, you may walk along these inclined planes
without any serious personal danger, save what consists in liquids
thrown on your head, and the torture endured by your corns.
There is not a single public edifice in Valparaiso worthy of even
passing admiration. The custom house is most conspicuous, facing the
port; the theatre fronts one of two small squares, and but a few meanly
built churches are to be found, packed away, out of sight, under the
steep hills back of the city. Improvements, however were planned, and
rapidly progressing. The port for many years had been steadily rising in
wealth and population, under the sure incentives of a large foreign
trade, and the enterprise of foreign residents; and all that appears
necessary to make the city much in advance of other commercial rivals
in the Pacific, is that Dame Nature should play excavating Betty on the
next earthquake, and remove a few of the obtrusive hills that encroach
so abruptly upon the bay.
There is an unusual bustle pervading the quay and streets, for a Spanish
Creole town. As ships cannot approach the unprotected shores to
discharge their cargoes, the port is crowded with multitudes of lighters
and whale boats, constantly passing to and fro, while porters, bending
under packages of goods, copper, and produce, are moving from the
_duana_, or warehouses, to the mole and beach. Videttes of mounted
police are posted at every corner, and small guards of soldiers in the
streets, supervising the exertions of gangs of convicts at work for the
authorities. In emulation, also, of the means of locomotion in vogue at
Rio, there has been introduced a ricketty contrivance, of the cab genus,
called _birloches_, to which is attached a horse within the shafts, and
another to caper at the side, similar to a Russian drosky, until a relay
is required, when they are changed. They rattle through the town with
reckless speed, urged by lash and spur of the driver mounted on the
outside beast. The same system is pursued on the longest journeys, with
merely the addition of a larger drove of animals to make up their own
posts from the cavalcade--the only respite from labor remaining in the
privilege of travelling at the same rate without the load.
Shops are sufficiently numerous, filled with manufactured goods from
Europe and the United States, with lots of gimcrackery from China. In
the old _plaza_ at night, almost every inch of ground is occupied by
itinerant venders of wares, toys, shoes, combs, fried fish, fruit, and
_dulces_; each squatted on his own cloth counter, with paper lanterns at
the sides. The proprietors of these ambulating establishments are women
and children. A fine band discourses delightful music, on alternate
evenings, and when one feels disposed to say pretty speeches to pretty
damas, moving gracefully around, and enjoy what is in reality a touch of
Spanish life, it were as well to saunter an hour on the _plaza_.
Valparaiso is extremely disproportioned in breadth to its great length,
necessarily so, from the jutting elevations that hang over it.
Immediately back of the heart of the city are a number of these salient
spurs, on one of which is planted the Campo Santo--foreign and native
cemeteries--while those to the right have been, by trouble and means of
the foreigners, cleared away into small esplanades, having neat and
pretty cottages, surrounded by shrubbery--one, the flora pondia, a very
beautiful, but diminutive tree, blossoms luxuriantly, with delicate,
white flowers, shaped like inverted cones, or bells, and although
shedding no odor during the day, yet at night it fairly renders the air
oppressive with perfume. These lofty turrets command fine views of bay,
shipping, and port, fully repaying the fatigue of getting up, in the
absence of dust, dirt and noise.
To the left, bordering close upon the harbor, is a long curving
promenade, called _El almendral_--almond grove--for no other reason
possibly than that there is not a vestige of trees or verdant leaves to
be seen. Away at the southward, in the opposite extremity of the city,
on what the sailors designate as the fore and main tops, is another
succession of sharply riven ravines, filled and faced with clusters of
one storied dwellings, from the summits down to the narrow gorges
between. It requires some geographical knowledge to explore these
regions, and though the toil of clambering about the uneven chasms and
numerous lanes, be not pleasant, yet one is recompensed while mounting
the steep acclivities by the most novel and striking views of the sea
or city at every turn--never being able to determine where the next
flight will lead--whether but a few yards from the spot just left, with
a bird's eye view of the shipping, or shut up in small causeways between
redly-tiled roofs, with the scene closed by barriers of whitewashed
walls, and even after attaining another airy eminence, under the belief
of having the broad ocean spread out at your feet, one is startled to
find himself gazing quite in another direction. These tops, with the
_quebradas_ between, are portions of the terrace, where we spent some
pleasant hours, dancing the _samacueca_, or fandangos, to the tinkling
of guitars, swept by nimble fingers of sloe-eyed Chilians. We were
always received courteously and sincerely, and in making ourselves
particularly agreeable, have been occasionally treated to a sip of weak
rum negus.
Once, accompanied by a friend in these exploring rambles, we had the
good fortune, through the medium of cigarillos, smiles, and a smattering
of Castilian, to make the acquaintance of a hospitable old lady and her
two pretty daughters. Carmencita was my favorite--lovely Carmencita! She
was very pretty--large, very large black eyes, half shut with roguery,
or coquetry; an adorable plump little figure, and what with a fairy
touch of the guitar, a soft, plaintive voice, and a fondness for
cigarillos, we thought her one of the most enchanting amourettes
imaginable. Poor Carmen! She had just lost by the fell destroyer her
lover, who was a superintendent of mines in San Felipe, but who had the
generosity during his last moments, to leave his tender sweetheart a
handsome legacy, a letter to the French consul, and his blessing. Pretty
Carmen! She preserved each and all of these interesting relics, with
great care, and although, "Souvent femme varie, bien fol est qui s'y
fie," she resisted all further assaults upon her heart--confessed that I
had _buen sentimientos_, but, nevertheless, she had resolved to live and
die within the severest rules of platonism.
I know not how or why, but there certainly is an irresistible charm,
that floats like a mist around Spanish creoles; indeed, creoles of all
nations have a style of fascination peculiarly their own, which renders
them truly bewitching, with the power of retaining their spells as long,
and as strong as any. Not that their features are more beautiful, eyes
brighter, or manners even as refined as those in older countries, for
they are not; but still they have soft, languishing eyes, rich, dark
hair, and pliant, graceful forms, combined with the greatest possible
charm in woman, earnest, unaffected, and amiable dispositions.
It is to be wondered at, too, that in remote countries, where so few
advantages are attainable in education, knowledge of the world and
society, that they should be so well supplied with pretty airs and
graces. It can only be attributable to that sublimated coquette Nature
herself, who provides those little goods the gods deny.
We had the pleasure of attending a number of _tertulias_, or evening
parties given in the houses of native residents, and witnessing the
dances of the country. The _tertulia_ is easy and sociable, without form
or ceremony. The _bayles_ are more staid affairs, where ladies are
seated in silent rows by themselves--men very hairy and grummy--taking
advantage of intervals in dancing to lounge on the piazzas, swallow a
few mouthfuls of cigar smoke, (not a bad institution this in warm
weather,) and exclaim, _dios que calor_! (how hot.) At one of these
assemblies we first saw a minuet called the _samacueca_. It was
undertaken by a beautiful young married lady, in company with a rather
corpulent old gentleman, and danced in a very sprightly, rogueish
manner. The prelude and music is similar to that of fandangos, but the
movements and _motif_ are far more indelicate, and it is by no means a
matter of difficulty to divine the meaning. Although these innocent
ballets would no doubt shockingly jar the nerves of a more refined
audience, and many a performer might be considered "too fine a dancer
for a virtuous woman," yet I am convinced that among these unaffected
creoles, naught is seen in the least degree improper, but they are
regarded from infancy as the harmless customs and amusements of their
country. As an individual I am fond of a notion of cayenne to existence,
and only clapped hands, or cried, _brava! buena! bonita!_
The opera was in full blast--the house large and convenient, with very
pretty scenic displays, and quite a brilliant constellation of Italian
stars to illumine the proscenium, but on no representation did there
appear evidence in the boxes that the manager's purse was filled. We had
the honor of being presented to the primo basso, Signor Marti, who
conversed pleasantly with a melodramatic voice from apparently very low
down in his boots. We listened to his sweet _seguadillas_ with rapture.
We found the climate truly delightful. It was the summer of the southern
ocean--pure, pleasant breezes with the sun, and clear, calm, sparkling
nights by moon or stars. Little or no rain falls, except in the winter
months, and as a consequence where the soil is fine and dry, dust covers
everything in impalpable clouds, at the same time affording a desirable
atmosphere for that lively individual, the flea!
On the coast of Syria the Arabs hold to the proverb that the Sultan of
fleas holds his court in Jaffa, and the Grand Vizier in Cairo; but so
far as our experience went in Valparaiso, we could safely give the lie
to the adage. As an unobtrusive person myself, I have a constitutional
antipathy to the entire race, and invariably use every precaution to
avoid their society--all to no purpose. They found me in crowds or
solitudes--alighted on me in swarms, like the locusts of Egypt,
destroying enjoyment on shore, and I fully resolved never to venture
abroad again, of mine own free will, until some enterprising Yankee
shall invent a trap for their annihilation.
I remember one mild afternoon sauntering on the almendral, when my
attention was drawn to a lithe, young damsel on the sidewalk, who,
whilst tripping along with a dainty gait, suddenly gave her foot a
backward twist, with a dexterous pinch at the pretty ancle, and again
went on like a bird. She had captured a flea! but it was a style of
piedermain worthy of the great Adrien; a feat I was prepared to believe
nearly equal to mounted Cossacks picking up pins from the ground with
their teeth, at full speed--in fact, something really wonderful, and
although I was quite confounded, and almost speechless with amazement,
yet I followed mechanically in order to see what she could or would
accomplish next. Nor could I repress some audible expressions of
encouragement; but the fair _doncella_, unconscious of having performed
anything remarkable, gave me a look, as much as to say, in the language
of a touching nautical ballad--
"Go away young man--my company forsake."
So not wishing to appear intrusive, I returned pensively to mine inn.
Fashions in ladies' dress are similar to those in Europe or the United
States, and even among the lower orders the bonnet is worn; but to my
way of thinking, a Spanish girl's forte is in a black satin robe and
slippers, a flowing _mantilla_, fine, smooth jetty tresses, and a waving
fan to act as breakflash to sparkling eyes!
Of the men of Chili, or at least those of them whom transient visitors
encounter in the usual lounging resorts of _vaut-riens_,--theatres,
cafes, tertulias, plazas, and other purlieus, they cannot be said to
compare with their captivating sisters--for a more indolent, hairy,
cigar-puffing race of bipeds never existed. In dress they ape the faded
fashions of Europe, retaining, however, the native cloak costume of the
_poncho_. It is a capital garment for either the road or the saddle,
leaving free play to the arms, and at the same time a protection from
dust or rain. It is worn by all classes, and composed of the gaudiest
colors, occasionally resembling a remarkably bright pattern of a drawing
room carpet, with the head of the wearer thrust through a slit in the
centre.
The President of Chili during our visit was General Bulnes, a soldier of
distinction in the civil wars of his own state, with a laurel or two won
in numerous bloody blows dealt upon the neighboring Peruvians. As the
hero of Yungai, his Excellency was elevated to his present position by
the bayonets of the troops, but latterly he evinced a keen sagacity in
reducing to a small force this army of vagabonds, who are prone, in
South American republics, in the absence of more agreeable occupation,
to amuse themselves with hatching conspiracies for the purpose of
slitting the throats of their former coadjutors.
There was but one regiment of infantry, and a few hundred cavalry in
Valparaiso. The militia system, as with us, had been partially
introduced throughout the provinces. It answered every purpose at much
less expense than regular troops, indeed excellently well, as a police,
and to the credit of Senor Bulnes' subalterns, good order was most
strictly and promptly enforced in his sea-port.
Every one subscribed to the opinion that the government was firmly
established, which may have been attributable, in some measure, to the
decided argument suggested by the President. Shooting, instead of
talking, down all opposition. By these decided proceedings he has been
enabled to keep turbulent spirits in check, and under fear of his
displeasure, there had not been a revolution for a long time, which was,
in itself, surprising.
Chili undoubtedly possesses resources within herself to become one of
the most prosperous and flourishing of the independent states of the
South American continent; and could the government be induced to take
proper steps to invite a more general emigration, and make it the
interest of emigrants to settle permanently in the country, by their
vigor and enterprize, the true development of the mining and
agricultural wealth might be easily accomplished, and this communion of
interests might be the means of securing Chili from the doom which seems
destined to await her sister republics. But notwithstanding the rapid
strides of liberality throughout the world, it appears that the rulers
of all the rich soil of America, washed by the Pacific, still maintain a
cramped policy, actuated by religious intolerance, and an indolence
unknown elsewhere. Destitute of energy themselves, the voracious
foreigner soon fattens on their resources, and in the end, having no
ties to bind him to a country where the religion precludes his forming
closer domestic relations, embarks his easily acquired fortune, to end
his days under an enlightened government.
It is indeed melancholy that such baneful influences do prevail, when
the whole universe is subscribing to more liberal notions, but as I do
not purpose preaching a capucinade for or against the Chilians, or take
any extraordinary measures to discover vice or follies, what might be
termed the pursuit of knowledge under difficulties, and apprehensive
lest any one should entertain ideas of me widely at variance to my real
and confirmed opinions, I simply assure them, I have long since given
over all philanthropic researches for that which does not affect my
heart or digestion. I once lived with a Russian, who was blessed with a
stomach and organs durable as the platina of his native mines, and he
ever assured me, after first finishing a flask of absinthe, that hard
hearts and good digestions were the only true elements of happiness in
life. Becoming a convert to this doctrine, I care not for the foibles or
follies of mankind, so long as people do not pick my pockets, or tread
on my toes. I take more delight in seeing a child skip the rope, a
monkey at his tricks, or a fish jump out of water, than all the palaces
or churches on earth, and I had much rather chat an hour with a pert
_dame de comptoir_, than dine with Senor Bulnes--nor were my spirits
affected by learning the vast amount of copper exported, or the quantity
of tea and tobacco smuggled; neither dispensations reduced the price of
billiards, or induced laundry women to lave linen a whit the whiter;
thus the truth being apparent that I am an indifferent worldly person, I
make the merit of my necessities, in striving to live the space allotted
me in the world, and not for it.
And now, if I be forgiven for venting this egotistic digression and
harangue, I promise to make my mouth a _mare clausum_ in future, for all
personal grievances.