"The far ships lifting their sails of white
Like joyful hands; come up with scattered light,
Come gleaming up, true to the wished for day,
And chase the whistling brine, and swirl into the bay."
REMINI. OF LEIGH HUNT.
The approach to Rio Janeiro, so far as God's fair handiwork is
considered, presents a bold, natural, and striking grandeur, and is,
perhaps, unsurpassed by that of any other land on earth. The mountains
spring abruptly from the sea, in massive, well-defined outline, assuming
at different points the most fanciful and grotesque shapes. Those to the
southward make in goodly proportion the figure of a man reclining on his
back, even to feet and eyes, while further inland are seen the narrow
tube-like cones of the Organ Mountains, shooting high up into the sky,
and then lower down, and around, are strewn lesser hills, sweeping and
undulating from vale to vale, in an endless succession of picturesque
beauty.
Passing the strait that opens into the bay, which appears narrower than
it really is, from the steep sides of adjacent heights, the river
expands, and stretching away on either shore, lie graceful curves and
indentations, whose snowy beaches are fringed with pretty dwellings,
half hidden beneath the richest tropical foliage. To the left stands the
city, built amidst a number of elevations, but like Lisbon, it has
neither spire nor dome to relieve the eye along the horizon. Yet this
drawback is in a measure lost sight of in contemplating the frowning
peak of La Gabia, which seems to hang over, and shade the town itself;
but take all in all there are few lovelier scenes the eye can gaze upon,
than Rio.
Just ten years had passed since I sailed from this noble bay, and
although I had been the wide world over, in stirring scenes, quite
sufficient as I indeed supposed to drive all recollections of it out of
my head, into dim obscurity and forgetfulness, yet as we approached the
harbor, every point and islet, fort, tower, reef, grove, and hamlet,
started vividly before me, as all appeared when I was a boy, and the
long years between dwindled away into minutes, and I fancied it but
yesterday since we had parted.
I greeted Lord Hood's nose like an old acquaintance, as it reposed in
gigantic outline, towering above the surrounding mountains; the small
island near the shore with the white tower that was then just begun; the
Sugar Loaf with its smooth surface of rocks, and on the other side the
Slaver's Bay--palmettos swinging their finger-like branches to and fro;
and beyond, the fortress of Santa Cruz, with the sickly yellow diamond
of Brazil, waving above; indeed, when the long speaking trumpet was
shoved through an embrasure, I knew the old soldier's melancholy howl by
intuition. At last the harbor's mouth was passed, we rolled up our sails
and sank peacefully to rest on the quiet bosom of the bay.
A mob of us tumbled into the boats; the ashen sails, plied by sinewy
arms, soon bumped us against what was once to me the Palace Stairs, but
either the water had receded, or land encroached upon the bay, for where
the waves once washed the sea wall, and where many a time I have sat
kicking my heels in the surf, sucking oranges the while, is now forty
feet from the beach, and the wall itself stands in the silliest manner
imaginable, quite in the middle of the square. To the left is a tall
modern range of warehouses and the hotel Pharou. Swarms of cigar-smoking
bipeds were lounging edgeways from the cafes and billiard rooms. I
recognized many old familiar faces of the boatmen, and among other rare
birds, the overgrown eunich organist, who used to be the wonder of my
boyhood--there he stood as of yore, exercising his curiosity in
scrutinizing the new comers.
The tenth of a century makes vast strides towards changing the
appearance of things in these electrical times, and although I
discovered no difference in beauties of dale, hill or mountain, for the
Organos still shot their needle-like peaks as high up into heaven, the
weather was quite as calm and hot in the mornings, and as breezy in the
afternoons, the same bells were heard ringing the most confused of
chimes, squares were as crowded, streets no wider, and negroes as
numerous and spicy as ever; yet what I mean is, the animus of the town
itself had been transmogrified. The beautiful bay was traversed by
hateful little beetles of steamers, drawing long lines of sooty black
smoke through the pure air, instead of multitudes of picturesque lateen
craft, with the musical chants and cadences of the negro oarsmen,
skimming and singing over the water. Then, too, streets were filled with
omnibii, cabs, gigs, gondolas, and all other conceivable inventions for
locomotion, serving to make one uncomfortable from the very strivings to
avoid it: I forgive the entire African races for whistling the latest
polkas, or rather _sistling_ through their closed teeth, for holding to
the ancient custom of affectionately interlacing little fingers, as they
come dancing, chattering and jabbering along the streets. Fleas, too,
were as lively and vigorous as ever, and I thought I recognised one
centenarian, who hopped on me with an ardor truly delightful, upon
stepping on shore at the palace stairs. The shopping Rua Ouvidor was
still the same incongruous assortment of French and German shops, with
here and there an unobtrusive counter, behind which some Levite
displayed ebony trays of twinkling brilliants, enough to make the mouth
water, eyes wink, and pocket bleed, should a purchase be thought of.
Black nurses still held their juvenile charges out from the lattice-work
doors and windows, with little bare legs dangling outside, to favor any
chance pedestrian with an eleemosynary kick, should he come within
reach. Then the same interminable lines of slaves, each a bag of coffee
on his head, preceded by a leading chorister, with small rattle, by way
of accompaniment to the harsh chorus, as they pass swiftly on with a
sharp jerking trot to the shipping or warehouses of the port. All this
was still the same to me, but in general it was not my Rio, not the spot
where my first and boyish impressions were formed, of the voluptuous,
luxurious life under tropical suns. The march of invention is rapidly
reducing everything to a standard of its own, and I could only sigh over
the innovations constituting refinement in civilization, where it seems
so little needed.
A very great improvement, in all praise be it said, had taken place in
the order and cleanliness of the city--we were not accosted once by
mendicants, when formerly they were as thick as lazzaroni in Naples. The
police was large, remarkably well organized, and the riots and
assassinations of former days were unheard of. The cafes and hotels have
kept pace with the times, where one may satisfy his gourmanderie with a
certain show of epicurianism, provided his palate be not too delicate
for many kinds of fishes and vegetables, with mayhap, at rare intervals,
a taste of monkey or paroquet. Yankee ice is very generally used, and a
philanthropic person had hung out a banner with "Mint Juleps" inscribed
thereon, but the thirst for these cold institutions is not so much felt
as in some parts of the United States; for here the weather, though hot
and enervating, has not the oppressiveness and lassitude of our summers,
and besides, fluids are made sufficiently cool and cooling, through the
medium of unglazed water jars, swung gently in the breeze.
We saw one deformed African attached to a small tray and sign, on which
was legibly painted "ginger-beer," evidently meaning ginger pop. We
execrated that monster on the spot, and said to ourselves, what is the
necessity for leaving home, if we are to be stared out of countenance by
our household gods, at the antipodes.
Another trifling peculiarity attracted our attention. I allude to the
trumpet-shaped water pipes, sticking boldly out from below every
balconied window, of all colors and sizes, reminding us of misshapen
angels, with puffed out cheeks, and trombones, invariably found in the
upper angles of miraculous, or scriptural paintings: fortunately there
was no rain, or we might have been gratified with a douche that the
great Preussnitz himself would have been proud of.
By no art or teaching can His Imperial Majesty, with "all the Senate at
his heels," be induced to give a respectable currency to the country.
The stamped paper of the empire in rais fluctuates like quicksilver at
the mart, and it is next to impossible to form any reasonable conjecture
what change may take place from day to day. In lieu of this, copper
coins, nearly the diameter of ship biscuits, valued from twenty to forty
rais, and commonly called "dumps," are used in every day traffic, but
should a person require more than one dollar at a time, it were
advisable to employ a negro and basket to transport them.
Among the devices before touched upon, in the way of ambulation, was one
which amused us excessively. Nothing less than a four-mule omnibus,
driven by the most remarkable Jehu ever beheld--evidently one who had
seen, or at least heard of, the natty style things were conducted at
Charing Cross before rails were laid. I had the honor to be propelled by
this individual a number of times, and it was well worth a "dump" to see
him pull on a very dirty buskin glove, the manner he handled the rope
reins, give his glazed hat a rap, and button up a huge box coat, with
the sun pouring down a stream of noonday fire; then an encouraging yell
to the leaders, swinging himself from side to side, away he rattled to
the astonishment of every wonder-loving person in the neighborhood. The
mules acted up to their natural propensities; at times dashing along the
sidewalks, and against houses; again coming to a dead halt, and favoring
each other with a few slapping salutes with their heels; then off they
clattered once more, until about to double a sharp corner, when if they
did not bolt into the pulperia opposite, like a Habanese volante, the
conductor, with the most imperturbable dignity, would crack his leathern
whip, shout like a devil, and do his possible to run over a covey of
miserable lame blackies, who would start up in great bewilderment, like
boys catching trapball, without knowing precisely in which direction
would be safest to dodge the eccentric vehicle. I always cheered my
friend with reiterated marks of approbation, as I look with leniency
upon the peculiarities of mankind, and ever make a rule to respect the
absurdities of others. The Jehu whose accomplishments I have so faintly
portrayed, can be regarded at any hour of the day, on the road to Boto
Fogo, and he will be found quite as interesting an object of curiosity
as the Falls of Tejuco, to say nothing of the fatigue and expense of the
journey.