CHAPTER XIII

THE IRISHMAN ABROAD

The educated American seems to have a great deal of affection for

Ireland, but is not over fond of Irishmen. Our country, considered as an

Island situated on the far side of the Atlantic, makes a strong appeal

to him. It is a land of thousand wrongs, a pitiful waif on the hard

highway of the world. It smells strongly of poetry and music in a minor

key, and the American is, like all good business men, an incurable

sentimentalist.

It is always pleasant to be loved and it is nice to feel that America

has this affection for our poor, lost land. But the love would gratify

us much more than it does if there were a little less pity mixed up in

it, and if it were not taken for granted that we all write poetry. I

remember meeting an American lady who was quite lyrical in her

appreciation of Ireland. She had penetrated into the country as far as

Avoca, making the trip from Dublin in a motor car. She stayed, so she

told me, "in a dear old-fashioned inn in Dublin." She had forgotten its

name, but described its situation to me very accurately. I could not

possibly make a mistake about it. My heart was hot within me when I

suggested that it might have been the Shelbourne Hotel at which she

stayed. Her face lit up with a gleam of recognition of the name.

"Yes," she said, "that's it, such a sweet old place; just Ireland all

over, and really quite comfortable when you get used to it."

Now the Shelbourne Hotel is our idea of a thoroughly up-to-date,

cosmopolitan caravanserai.

Even after a visit to America and a considerable experience of American

hotels, I cannot think of the Shelbourne Hotel as an inn, as

old-fashioned, or as in any way Irish except through the accident of its

situation. It evidently suggests to the American mind tender thoughts of

Mr. Yeats' "small cabin, of mud and wattles made" on Inishfree. It

suggests no such thoughts to us. Dinner at the Shelbourne Hotel costs

five shillings, nothing to an American, of course, but a heavy price to

us in Ireland. It consists of several courses and we think it quite a

grand dinner. It seems to the American that he is at last reduced to the

traditional Irish diet of potatoes and potheen whiskey. It is this way

of thinking about Ireland which takes the sweetness out of the

American's genuine affection for our country. We do not mind admitting

that we are half a century behind America in every respect, but we like

to think that we are making some progress.

An American's eyes soften when you talk to him about Ireland, and you

feel that at any moment he may say "dear land," so deep is his

sentimental pity and affection for our country. But his eyes harden when

you mention Irishmen and you feel that at any moment he may say

something very nasty about them. The plain fact is that Irishmen are not

very popular in America. We have, it appears, managed the American's

municipal politics for him in several of his principal cities and he

does not like it. But I am not sure that his resentment is quite just.

Somebody must manage municipal politics everywhere. For a good many

years the American would not manage them himself. He was too busy making

money to bother himself about municipal politics. We took over the

job—at a price. He paid the price with a shrug of the shoulders. I

cannot see that he has much to complain about. Lately he has kicked—not

against the size of the price—it is not the American way to higgle

about money—but against there being any price at all. He has got it

into his head that municipal politics ought to be run "free gratis and

for nothing" by high-souled patriotic men. I sincerely hope that he will

realize his ideal, though I doubt whether any politics anywhere can be

run in that way. It will certainly be better for my fellow countrymen to

earn their bread in any way rather than by politics. But there is, no

sense in being angry with us or abusing us. We worked the machine and

took our wages. The American watched the machine running and paid the

wages. There was not much to choose between him and us.

There is another reason why we are not as popular as we might be—as, no

doubt, we ought to be—in America. We have remained Irish. One of the

most wonderful things about America is its power of absorbing people.

Men and women flow into it from all corners of the world, and in a very

short time, in a couple of generations, become American. I have seen it

stated that the very shapes of the skulls of immigrants alter in

America; that the son of an Italian man has an American not an Italian

skull, even if his mother also came from Italy. Whether this change

really takes place in the bones of immigrants I do not know. Quite as

surprising a change certainly does take place in their nature. They

cease to be foreigners and become American. But the Irish have never

been thoroughly Americanized. Their American citizenship becomes a great

and dear thing to them, but they are still in some sense citizens of

Ireland. If a question ever arose in which American interests clashed

with Irish interests there might well be a solid Irish vote in favor of

sacrificing America to Ireland. The Irish are a partial exception to the

rule that America absorbs its immigrants. It has not thoroughly absorbed

us.

This is the shape which the Irish problem has assumed in America. Here

at home the question is, is England to govern Irishmen? It has obviously

failed to make Englishmen of us. On the other side of the Atlantic the

question is: Are Irishmen to govern America? America has not succeeded

in making Americans of all of us so far.

So far. But the position of Irishmen in America is changing. There was a

time when we took our place in the American social order as hewers of

wood and drawers of water. We were the navvies, the laborers, the men

who handled the pickaxe and spade. Now it is men of other races who do

this work—Italians and Slavs. We have risen in the scale. The Irish

emigrant who lands in New York to-day starts higher up than the Irish

emigrant of twenty-five years ago. So long as we were at the bottom of

the social scale we were bound together by a community of interest and

outlook as well as by nationality. We were easily organized as a voting

unit. But men, as they rise in the world, tend more and more to become

individuals. They have differing interests. They look at things in

different ways. They are far more difficult to organize. The sense of

original nationality will remain to us, no doubt, as it remains among

Americans of Scottish descent. But it may cease to be an effective

political force.

The Ulster Irishman went to America in large numbers before there was

any great immigration of southern and western Irishmen. He fought his

way up in the social scale very quickly and became thoroughly

Americanized. He has had a profound influence on American civilization

and character. It has been the influence of digested food, not the force

exercised by a lump of dough swallowed hastily. But in time even a lump

of dough is digested by a healthy stomach and the gradual rise of the

Irish in the social life of America looks like the beginning of the

process of digestion.

There is something else besides the change in his social position which

will in time make it easier for America to absorb thoroughly the Irish

immigrant. The Irish who went to America during the last half of the

19th century left their homes with a sense in them of burning wrong.

They were men who hated. They hated England and all in Irish life which

stood for England. This hate bound them together. Irish political

struggles, whether of the Fenian or the Parnell type, appealed to them.

Ireland was, in one way or the other, up against England. But all this

has changed. Irish politicians are no longer engaged in a struggle with

England. They are in alliance with one set of Englishmen and only

against another set of Englishmen. There is in Irish politics at home an

appeal to the man of party feeling. He is keen enough for his own party,

keen enough against the other party, but when he gets to America neither

of the parties at home can move him to any special enthusiasm. He no

longer, when at home, hates England. He hates, if hate is not too strong

a word, some Englishmen. There is a great difference between hating

England and hating some Englishmen, when you are so far away that all

Englishmen get blurred. It is easy in Ireland to feel that Codlin is the

friend, not Short. It is not so easy to distinguish Codlin from Short,

Liberal from Conservative, when they are both no more than little dots,

barely visible at a distance of three thousand miles. Codlin gets mixed

up with Short. Some of the original party hatred of Short attaches to

Codlin, no doubt. But some of the love for Codlin, love which is the

fruit of long alliance, passes to Short.

I do not mean to suggest that the sense of nationality has passed away

from Ireland. It has not. In some ways the spirit of nationality is

stronger in Ireland to-day than it was at any time during the last

century. It has certainly penetrated to classes which used to have no

consciousness of nationality at all. There are fewer Irishmen now who

are ashamed of being Irish. There are more men now than ever, in every

class, who want the good of Ireland as distinguished from that of

England or of any other country. But the sense of nationality has to a

very large extent passed out of Irish political life. The platform

appeal of the politician to the voter in Ireland now is far oftener an

appeal to Irishmen as part of the British democracy than to Irishmen as

members of a nation governed against its will by foreigners. The ideas

of John O'Leary, even the ideas of Parnell, have almost vanished from

Irish political life. Instead of them we have the idea of international

democracy.

This change of feeling in Ireland itself will make for a modification of

the position of the Irish in America. They will tend, as the older

generation passes, to become more American and less Irish. This is

already felt in Ireland itself. Of late years there has arisen a strong

feeling against emigration. It is realized, as it used not to be, that

Ireland loses those who go. The feeling is quite new. The phrase "a

greater Ireland beyond the seas" is beginning to mean a little less than

it did, and the general consciousness of patriotic Irishmen at home is

instinctively recognizing this. But it is noticeable that this dislike

of emigration has not found expression among politicians. The movement

is outside politics. The local political boss is frequently an

emigration agent and feels no inconsistency in his position.

It would be quite easy to exaggerate the present value of the change I

have tried to indicate. The old solidarity of the Irish in America

remains a fact. It is to Irish friends and relatives that our emigrants

go. It is among Irish people that they live when they settle in America.

It is Irish people whom they marry. But the tendency is toward a

breaking away from this national isolation.

The movement against emigration at home has much in it besides the

instinctive protest of a nation against the loss of its people. It is in

part religious and rests on a fear that faith is more easily lost in

America than in Ireland. It is in part no doubt the result of shrinking

of sensitive and loving souls from the horror of the great sorrow of

farewell.

All emotions lose their keenness with repetition. The fine rapture of a

joy is never quite so delightful as it was when the joy came first and

was strange. The bitterness of sorrow and disappointment gradually loses

its intensity when sorrow and disappointment become familiar things.

Even insults cease after a while to move us to fierce anger. The law is

universal; but there are some emotions which are only very slowly

dulled. The sadness which comes of watching the departure of a train

full of Irish emigrants is one of these. We are, or ought to be, well

accustomed to the sight. Those of us who have lived long in the country

parts of Ireland have seen these trains and traveled a little way in

them many times; but we are still saddened, hardly less saddened than

when we saw them first.

There is one day in the week on which emigrants go, and in the west of

Ireland one train on that day by which they travel. It goes slowly,

stopping at every station no matter how small, and at every station

there is the same scene. The platform is crowded long before the train

comes in. There are many old women weeping without restraint, mothers

these, or grandmothers of the boys and girls who are going. Their eyes

are swollen. Their cheeks are tear-stained. Every now and then one of

them wails aloud, and the others, catching at the sound, wail with her,

their voices rising and falling in a kind of weird melody like the

ancient plain song of the church. There are men, too, but they are more

silent. Very often their eyes are wet. Their lips, tightly pressed,

twitch spasmodically. Occasionally an uncontrollable sob breaks from one

of them. The boys and girls who are to go are helplessly sorrow

stricken. It is no longer possible for them to weep, for they have wept

too much already. They are drooping despairingly. At their feet are

carpet bags and little yellow tin trunks, each bearing a great flaring

steamboat label. They wear stiff new clothes, shoddy tweed suits from

the shop of the village draper, dresses and blouses long discussed with

some country dressmaker. These pitiful braveries mark them out

unmistakably from the men in muddy frieze and the women in wide crimson

petticoats, with shawls over their heads, who have come to say good-by.

The train comes in. There is a rush to the carriage doors. Soon the

windows of the carriages are filled with tear-stained faces. Hands are

stretched out, grasped, held tight. Final kisses are pressed on lips and

cheeks. The guard of the train gives his signal at last. The engine

whistles. A porter, mercifully brutal, by main force pushes the people

back. The train moves slowly, gathers speed. For a while the whole crowd

moves along the platform beside the train. Then a long sad cry rises,

swelling to a pitch of actual agony. Some brave soul somewhere chokes

down a sob, waves his hat and makes pretence to cheer. Then the scene is

over.

What happens next in the railway carriages? For a while there is sobbing

or silence. Then wonder and the excitement of change begin to take the

place of grief. Words are whispered, questions asked. Little stores of

money are taken out and counted over. Steamboat tickets are examined,

unfolded, folded, put in yet securer places. Already the present is

something more than a dull ache; and the future is looked to as well as

the past.

What happens next to the crowd which was left behind? In little groups

the men and women go slowly back along the country roads to the houses

left at dawn, go back to take up the work of every day. Poverty is a

merciful mistress to those whom she holds in bondage. There are the

fields to be dug, the cattle to be tended, the bread to be made. The

steady succession of things which must be done dulls the edge of grief.

They suffer less who are obliged to work as well as weep. But the sorrow

remains. He has but a shallow knowledge of our people who supposes that

because they go about the business of their lives afterward as they did

before there is no lasting reality in their grief. An Irish mother will

say: "I had seven childer, but there's only two of them left to me now.

I buried two and three is in America." She classes those who have

crossed the sea with those who are dead. Both are lost to her.

Sometimes those who have gone are indeed lost utterly. There comes a

letter once, and after a long interval another letter. Then no more

letters nor any news at all. More often there is some kind of touch kept

with the people at home. Letters come at Christmas time, often with very

welcome gifts of money in them. There are photographs. Molly, whom we

all knew when she was a bare-footed child running home from school, whom

we remember as a half-grown girl climbing into her father's cart on

market days, appears almost a stranger in her picture. Her clothes are

grand beyond our imagining. Her face has a new look in it. There are few

Irish country houses in which such photographs are not shown with a

mixture of pride and grief. It is a fine thing that Molly is so grand.

It is a sad thing that Molly is so strange.

Sometimes, but not very often, a boy or girl comes home again, like a

frightened child to a mother. America is too hard for some of us. These

are beaten and return to the old poverty, preferring it because the ways

of Irish poverty are less strenuous than the ways of American success.

Sometimes, but this is rare too, a young man or woman returns, not

beaten but satisfied with moderate success. These bring with them money,

the girl a marriage portion for herself, the man enough to restock his

father's farm, which he looks to inherit in the future. Sometimes older

people come back to buy land, build houses and settle down. But these

are always afterward strangers in Irish life. They never recapture the

spirit of it. They have worked in America, thought in America, breathed

in America. America has marked them as hers and they are ours no longer

though they come back to us.

Often we have passing visits from those who left us. The new easiness of

traveling and the comparative comfort of the journey make these visits

commoner than they were. Our friends come back for two months or three.

It is wonderful to see how quickly they seem to fall into the old ways.

The young man, who was perhaps an insurance agent in New York, will fold

away his city clothes and turn to with a loy at cutting turf. The girl,

who got out of the train so fine to look at that her own father hardly

dared to greet her, will be out next day in the fields making hay with

her sisters and brothers. But there is a restlessness about these

visitors of ours. They want us to do new things. They find much amiss

which we had not noticed. They are back with us and glad to be back; but

America is calling them all the time. There is very much that we cannot

give. Soon they will go again, and any tears shed at the second parting

are ours, not theirs.

There are many histories of Ireland dealing sometimes with the whole,

sometimes with this or that part of her story. They are written with the

passion of patriots, with the bitterness of enemies, with the blind fury

of partisans, with the cold justice of scientific men who stand aloof.

None of them are wholly satisfactory as histories of England are, or

histories of America. No one can write a history of Ireland which will

set forth intelligently Ireland's place in the world. We wait for the

coming of some larger-minded man who will write the history, not of

Ireland, but of the Irish. In one respect it is not with us as it is

with other nations. Their stories center in their homes. Their

conquerors go forth, but return again. Their thinkers live amid the

scenes on which their eyes first opened. Their contributions to human

knowledge are connected in all men's minds with their own lands. The

statesmen of other nations rule their own people, build empires on which

their own flag flies. The workmen of other nations, captains of industry

or sweating laborers, make wealth in their home lands. It has never been

so with us.

Our historian when he comes and writes of us may take as the motto of

his book Virgil's comment on the honey-making of the bees. "Sic vos non

vobis." Long ago we spread the gospel of the Cross over the dark places

of Europe. The monasteries of our monks, the churches of our missionary

preachers were everywhere. But our own land is still the prey of that

acrimonious theological bitterness which is of all things the most

utterly opposed to the spirit of Christ. So we, but not for ourselves,

made sweetness. Kant is a German. Bergson is a Frenchman. All the world

knows it. Who knows or cares that John Scotus Erigena or Bishop Berkeley

were Irish? The greatness of their names has shed no luster over us. Our

captains and soldiers have fought and won under every flag in Europe and

under the Stars and Stripes of America. Under our own flag they rarely

fought and never won. Statesmen of our race have been among the

governors of almost every nation under the sun. Our own land we have

never governed yet. The names of Swift, of Goldsmith, of Sheridan, of a

score of other men of letters add to the glory of the record of English

literature, not of ours. Our people by their toil of mind and muscle

have made other lands rich in manufacture and commerce. Ireland remains

poor.

That is why there is not and cannot be a history of Ireland. It is never

in Ireland that our history has been made. The threads of our story are

ours, spun at home, but they are woven into splendid fabrics elsewhere,

not in Ireland. But the history of the Irish people will be a great work

when it is written. There will be strange chapters in it, and none

stranger than those which tell of our part in the making of America. It

will be a record of mingled good and evil, but it will always have in it

the elements of high romance. From the middle of the 18th century, when

the tide of emigration set westward from Ulster, down to to-day when

with slackening force it flows from Connaught, those who went have

always been the men and women for whom life at home seemed hopeless.

There was no promise of good for them here. But in spite of the

intolerable sadness of their going, in spite of the fact that at home

they were beaten men, there was in them some capacity for doing things.

We can succeed, it seems, elsewhere but not here. This is the strange

law which has governed our history. We recognize its force everywhere

for centuries back. America gives the latest example of its working. An

Irishman returns from a visit to America wondering, despairing, hoping.

The wonder is in him because he knows those who went and has seen the

manner of their going. Success for them seemed impossible, yet very

often they have succeeded. The despair is in him because he knows that

it has always been in other lands, not in their own that our people

succeed, and because there is no power which can alter the decrees of

destiny. But hope survives in him, flickering, because what our people

can do elsewhere they can certainly do at home if only we can discover

the solution of the malignant riddle of our failure.

Transcriber's Notes

p. 82 "passerby" was changed to "passer-by"

p. 133 "betwen" was changed to "between"

The spelling of all other words, and the punctuation, are as in the

original.

[The end of _From Dublin To Chicago_ by James Owen Hannay (1865-1950) [writing as George A. Birmingham]]

End of Project Gutenberg's From Dublin to Chicago, by George A. Birmingham

From Dublin to Chicago: Some Notes on a Tour in America · 第 13 / 13 章