HILO. June 2nd.
Often since I finished my last letter has Hazael's reply to Elisha
occurred to me, "Is thy servant a dog, that he should do this
thing?" For in answer to people who have said, "I hope nothing will
induce you to attempt the ascent of Mauna Loa," I always said, "Oh,
dear, no! I should never dream of it;" or, "Nothing would persuade
me to think of it!"
This morning early, Mr. Green came in, on his way to Kilauea, to
which I was to accompany him, and on my casually remarking that I
envied him his further journey, he at once asked me to join him, and
I joyfully accepted the invitation! For, indeed, my heart has been
secretly set on going, and I have had to repeat to myself fifty
times a day, "no, I must not think of it, for it is impossible."
Mr. Green is going up well equipped with a tent, horses, a baggage
mule, and a servant, and is confident of being able to get a guide
and additional mules fifty miles from Hilo. I had to go to the
Union School examination where the Hilo world was gathered, but I
could think of nothing but the future; and I can hardly write sense,
the prospect of the next week is so exciting, and the time for
making preparations is so short. It is an adventurous trip anyhow,
and the sufferings which our predecessors have undergone, from
Commodore Wilkes downwards, make me anxious not to omit any
precaution. The distance which has to be travelled through an
uninhabited region, the height and total isolation of the summit,
the uncertainty as to the state of the crater, and the duration of
its activity, with the possibility of total failure owing to fog or
strong wind, combine to make our ascent an experimental trip.
The news of the project soon spread through the village, and as the
ascent has only once been performed by a woman, the kindly people
are profuse in offers of assistance, and in interest in the journey,
and every one is congratulating me on my good fortune in having Mr.
Green for my travelling companion. I have hunted all the beach
stores through for such essentials as will pack into small compass,
and every one said "So you are going to 'the mountain;' I hope
you'll have a good time;" or, "I hope you'll have the luck to get
up."
Among the friends of my hosts all sorts of useful articles were
produced, a camp kettle, a camping blanket, a huge Mexican poncho, a
cardigan, capacious saddlebags, etc. Nor was Kahele forgotten, for
the last contribution was a bag of oats! The greatest difficulty
was about warm clothing, for in this perfect climate, woollen
underclothing is not necessary as in many tropical countries, but it
is absolutely essential on yonder mountain, and till late in the
afternoon the best intentions and the most energetic rummaging in
old trunks failed to produce it. At last Mrs. ---, wife of an old
Scotch settler, bestowed upon me the invaluable loan of a stout
flannel shirt, and a pair of venerable worsted stockings, much
darned, knitted in Fifeshire a quarter of a century ago. When she
brought them, the excellent lady exclaimed, "Oh, what some people
will do!" with an obvious personal reference.
She tells us that her husband, who owns the ranch on the mountain at
which we are to stay the last night, has been obliged to forbid any
of his natives going up as guides, and that she fears we shall not
get a guide, as the native who went up with Mr. Whyte suffered so
dreadfully from mountain sickness, that they were obliged to help
him down, and he declares that he will not go up again. Mr. Whyte
tells us that he suffered himself from vomiting and vertigo for
fourteen hours, and severely from thirst also, as the water froze in
their canteens; but I am almost well now, and as my capacity for
"roughing it" has been severely tested, I hope to "get on" much
better. A party made the ascent nine months ago, and the members of
it also suffered severely, but I see no reason why cautious people,
who look well to their gear and clothing, and are prudent with
regard to taking exercise at the top, should suffer anything worse
than the inconveniences which are inseparable from nocturnal cold at
a high elevation.
My preparations are completed to-night, the last good wishes have
been spoken, and we intend to leave early tomorrow morning.
I.L.B.