"MY CAMP," HAWAIIAN SLOPES. May 21.
This is the height of enjoyment in travelling. I have just encamped
under a lauhala tree, with my saddle inverted for a pillow, my horse
tied by a long lariat to a guava bush, my gear, saddle-bags, and
rations for two days lying about, and my saddle blanket drying in
the sun. Overhead the sun blazes, and casts no shadow; a few fleecy
clouds hover near him, and far below, the great expanse of the
Pacific gleams in a deeper blue than the sky. Far above, towers the
rugged and snow-patched, but no longer mysterious dome of Mauna Loa;
while everywhere, ravines, woods, waterfalls, and stretches of lawn-
like grass delight the eye. All green that I have ever seen, of
English lawns in June, or Alpine valleys, seems poor and colourless
as compared with the dazzling green of this sixty-five miles. It is
a joyous green, a glory. Whenever I look up from my writing, I ask,
Was there ever such green? Was there ever such sunshine? Was there
ever such an atmosphere? Was there ever such an adventure? And
Nature--for I have no other companion, and wish for none--answers,
"No." The novelty is that I am alone, my conveyance my own horse;
no luggage to look after, for it is all in my saddle-bags; no guide
to bother, hurry, or hinder me; and with knowledge enough of the
country to stop when and where I please. A native guide, besides
being a considerable expense, is a great nuisance; and as the trail
is easy to find, and the rivers are low, I resolved for once to
taste the delights of perfect independence! This is a blessed
country, for a lady can travel everywhere in absolute security.
My goal is the volcano of Kilauea, with various diverging
expeditions, involving a ride of about 350 miles; but my health has
so wonderfully improved, that it is easier to me now to ride forty
miles in a day than ten some months ago.
You have no idea of the preparations required for such a ride, and
the importance which "littles" assume. Food for two days had to be
taken, and all superfluous weight to be discarded, as every pound
tells on a horse on a hard journey. My saddle-bags contain, besides
"Sunday clothes," dress for any "gaieties" which Hilo may offer; but
I circumscribed my stock of clothes as much as possible, having
fallen into the rough-and-ready practice of washing them at night,
and putting them on unironed in the morning. I carry besides, a
canvas bag on the horn of my saddle, containing two days' provender,
and a knife, horse-shoe nails, glycerine, thread, twine, leather
thongs, with other little et ceteras, the lack of which might prove
troublesome, a thermometer and aneroid in a leather case, and a
plaid. I have discarded, owing to their weight, all the well-meant
luxuries which were bestowed upon me, such as drinking cups, flasks,
etnas, sandwich cases, knife cases, spoons, pocket mirrors, etc.
The inside of a watchcase makes a sufficient mirror, and I make a
cup from a kalo leaf. All cases are a mistake,--at least I think
so, as I contemplate my light equipment with complacency.
Yesterday's dawn was the reddest I have seen on the mountains, and
the day was all the dawn promised. A three-mile gallop down the
dewy grass, and slackened speed through the bush, brought me once
again to the breezy slopes of Hamakua, and the trail I travelled in
February, with Deborah and Kaluna. Though as green then as now, it
was the rainy season, a carnival of rain and mud. Somehow the
summer does make a difference, even in a land without a winter. The
temperature was perfect. It was dreamily lovely. No song of birds,
or busy hum of insects, accompanied the rustle of the lauhala leaves
and the low murmur of the surf. But there is no hot sleep of noon
here--the delicious trades keep the air always wakeful.
When the gentleman who guided me through the bush left me on the
side of a pali, I discovered that Kahele, though strong, gentle, and
sure-footed, possesses the odious fault known as balking, and
expressed his aversion to ascend the other side in a most
unmistakable manner. He swung round, put his head down, and no
amount of spurring could get him to do anything but turn round and
round, till the gentleman, who had left me, returned, beat him with
a stick, and threw stones at him, till he got him started again.
I have tried coaxing him, but without result, and have had prolonged
fights with him in nearly every gulch, and on the worst pali of all
he refused for some time to breast a step, scrambled round and round
in a most dangerous place, and slipped his hind legs quite over the
edge before I could get him on.
His sociability too is ridiculously annoying. Whenever he sees
natives in the distance, he neighs, points his ears, holds up his
heavy head, quickens his pace, and as soon as we meet them, swings
round and joins them, and can only be extricated after a pitched
battle. On a narrow bridge I met Kaluna on a good horse, improved
in manners, appearance, and English, and at first he must have
thought that I was singularly pleased to see him, by my turning
round and joining him at once; but presently, seeing the true state
of the case, he belaboured Kahele with a heavy stick. The animal is
very gentle, and companionable, and I dislike to spur him; besides,
he seems insensible to it; so the last time I tried Rarey's plan,
and bringing his head quite round, twisted the bridle round the horn
of the saddle, so that he had to turn round and round for my
pleasure, rather than to indulge his own temper, a process which
will, I hope, conquer him mercifully.
But in consequence of these battles, and a halt which I made, as
now, for no other purpose than to enjoy my felicitous circumstances,
the sun was sinking in a mist of gold behind Mauna Loa long before I
reached the end of my day's journey. It was extremely lovely. A
heavy dew was falling, odours of Eden rose from the earth, colours
glowed in the sky, and the dewiest and richest green was all round.
It was eerie, but delightful. There were several gulches to cross
after the sun had set, and a silence, which was almost audible,
reigned in their leafy solitudes. It was quite dark when I reached
the trail which dips over the great pali of Laupahoehoe, 700 feet in
height; but I found myself riding carelessly down what I hardly
dared to go up, carefully and in company, four months before. But
whatever improvement time has made in my health and nerves, it has
made none in this wretched zoophyte village.
Leading Kahele, I groped about till I found the house of the widow
Honolulu, with whom I had lodged before, and presently all the
natives assembled to stare at me. After rubbing my horse and
feeding him on a large bundle of ti leaves that I had secured on the
road, I took my own meal as a spectacle. Two old crones seized on
my ankles, murmuring lomi, lomi, and subjected them to the native
process of shampooing. They had unrestrained curiosity as to the
beginning and end of my journey. I said "Waimea, Hamakua," when
they all chorused, "Maikai;" for a ride of forty miles was not bad
for a wahine haole. I said, "Wai, lio," (water for the horse), when
they signified that there was only some brackish stuff unfit for
drinking.
In spite of the garrulous assemblage, I was asleep before eight, and
never woke till I found myself in a blaze of sunshine this morning,
and in perfect solitude. I got myself some breakfast, and then
looked about the village for some inhabitants, but found none,
except an unhappy Portuguese with one leg, and an old man who looked
like a leper, to whom I said, "Ko" (cane) "lio" (horse), exhibiting
a rial at the same time, on which he cut me a large bundle, and I
sat on a stone and watched Kahele as he munched it for an hour and a
half.
It was very hot and serene down there between those palis 700 and
800 feet high. The huts of the village were all shut, and not a
creature stirred. The palms above my head looked is if they had
always been old, and there was no movement among their golden
plumes. The sea itself rolled shorewards more silently and lazily
than usual. An old dog slept in the sunshine, and whenever I moved,
by a great effort, opened one eye. The man who cut the cane fell
asleep on the grass. Kahele ate as slowly as if he had resolved to
try my patience, and be revenged on me for my conquest of him
yesterday, and his heavy munching was the only vital sound. I got
up and walked about to assure myself that I was awake, saddled and
bridled the horse, and mounted the great southward pali, thankful to
reach the breeze and the upper air in full possession of my
faculties, after the torpor and paralysis of the valley below.
Never were waters so bright or stretches of upland lawns so joyous
as to-day, or the forest entanglements so entrancing. The beautiful
Eugenia malaccensis is now in full blossom, and its stems and
branches are blazing in all the gulches, with bunches of rose-
crimson stamens borne on short spikelets.
HILO. HAWAII, May 24th.
Once more I am in dear beautiful Hilo. Death entered my Hawaiian
"home" lately, and took "Baby Bell" away, and I miss her sweet
angel-presence at every turn; but otherwise there are no changes,
and I am very happy to be under the roof of these dear friends
again, and indeed each tree, flower, and fern in Hilo is a friend.
I would not even wish the straggling Pride of India, and over-
abundant lantana, away from this fairest of the island Edens. I
wish I could transport you here this moment from our sour easterly
skies to this endless summer and endless sunshine, and shimmer of a
peaceful sea, and an atmosphere whose influences are all cheering.
Though from 13 to 16 feet of rain fall here in the year the air is
not damp. Wet clothes hung up in the verandah even during rain, dry
rapidly, and a substance so sensitive to damp as botanical paper
does not mildew.
I met Deborah on horseback near Onomea, and she told me that the
Austins were expecting me, and so I spent three days very pleasantly
with them on my way here.
I.L.B.
That old Kilauea has just come in, and has brought the English mail,
and a United States mail, an event which sets Hilo agog. Then for a
few hours its still, drowsy life becomes galvanized, and people
really persuade themselves that they have something to do, and all
the foreigners write letters hastily, or add postscripts to those
already written, and lose the mail, and rush down frantically to the
beach to send their late letters by favour of the obliging purser.
The mail to-day was an event to me, as it has brought your long-
looked-for letters.