INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

Canon Kingsley, in his charming book on the West Indies, says, "The

undoubted fact is known I find to few educated English people, that

the Coco palm, which produces coir rope, cocoanuts, and a hundred

other useful things, is not the same plant as the cacao bush which

produces chocolate, or anything like it. I am sorry to have to

insist upon this fact, but till Professor Huxley's dream and mine is

fulfilled, and our schools deign to teach, in the intervals of Greek

and Latin, some slight knowledge of this planet, and of those of its

productions which are most commonly in use, even this fact may need

to be re-stated more than once."

There is no room for the supposition that the intelligence of Mr.

Kingsley's "educated English" acquaintance is below the average, and

I should be sorry to form an unworthy estimate of that of my own

circle, though I have several times met with the foregoing

confusion, as well as the following and other equally ill-informed

questions, one or two of which I reluctantly admit that I might have

been guilty of myself before I visited the Pacific: "Whereabouts

are the Sandwich Islands? They are not the same as the Fijis, are

they? Are they the same as Otaheite? Are the natives all

cannibals? What sort of idols do they worship? Are they as pretty

as the other South Sea Islands? Does the king wear clothes? Who do

they belong to? Does any one live on them but the savages? Will

anything grow on them? Are the people very savage?" etc. Their

geographical position is a great difficulty. I saw a gentleman of

very extensive information looking for them on the map in the

neighbourhood of Tristran d'Acunha; and the publishers of a high-

class periodical lately advertised, "Letters from the Sandwich

Islands" as "Letters from the South Sea Islands." In consequence of

these and similar interrogatories, which are not altogether

unreasonable, considering the imperfect teaching of physical

geography, the extent of this planet, the multitude of its

productions, and the enormous number of islands composing Polynesia,

Micronesia, and Melanesia, it is necessary to preface the following

letters with as many preliminary statements as shall serve to make

them intelligible.

The Sandwich Islands do not form one of the South Sea groups, and

have no other connexion with them than certain affinities of race

and language. They constitute the only important group in the vast

North Pacific Ocean, in which they are so advantageously placed as

to be pretty nearly equidistant from California, Mexico, China, and

Japan. They are in the torrid zone, and extend from 18 degrees 50'

to 22 degrees 20' north latitude, and their longitude is from 154

degrees 53' to 160 degrees 15' west from Greenwich. They were

discovered by Captain Cook in 1778. They are twelve in number, but

only eight are inhabited, and these vary in size from Hawaii, which

is 4000 square miles in extent, and 88 miles long by 73 broad, to

Kahoolawe, which is only 11 miles long and 8 broad. Their entire

superficial area is about 6,100 miles. They are to some extent

bounded by barrier reefs of coral, and have few safe harbours.

Their formation is altogether volcanic, and they possess the largest

perpetually active volcano and the largest extinct crater in the

world. They are very mountainous, and two mountain summits on

Hawaii are nearly 14,000 feet in height. Their climate for

salubrity and general equability is reputed the finest on earth. It

is almost absolutely equable, and a man may take his choice between

broiling all the year round on the sea level on the leeward side of

the islands at a temperature of 80 degrees, and enjoying the charms

of a fireside at an altitude where there is frost every night of the

year. There is no sickly season, and there are no diseases of

locality. The trade winds blow for nine months of the year, and on

the windward coasts there is an abundance of rain, and a perennial

luxuriance of vegetation.

The Sandwich Islands are not the same as Otaheite nor as the Fijis,

from which they are distant about 4,000 miles, nor are their people

of the same race. The natives are not cannibals, and it is doubtful

if they ever were so. Their idols only exist in missionary museums.

They cast them away voluntarily in 1819, at the very time when

missionaries from America sent out to Christianize the group were on

their way round Cape Horn. The people are all clothed, and the

king, who is an educated gentleman, wears the European dress. The

official designation of the group is "Hawaiian Islands," and they

form an independent kingdom.

The natives are not savages, most decidedly not. They are on the

whole a quiet, courteous, orderly, harmless, Christian community.

The native population has declined from 400,000 as estimated by

Captain Cook in 1778 to 49,000, according to the census of 1872.

There are about 5,000 foreign residents, who live on very friendly

terms with the natives, and are mostly subjects of Kalakaua, the

king of the group.

The islands have a thoroughly civilized polity, and the Hawaiians

show a great aptitude for political organization. They constitute a

limited monarchy, and have a constitutional and hereditary king, a

parliament with an upper and lower house, a cabinet, a standing

army, a police force, a Supreme Court of Judicature, a most

efficient postal system, a Governor and Sheriff on each of the

larger islands, court officials, and court etiquette, a common

school system, custom houses, a civil list, taxes, a national debt,

and most of the other amenities and appliances of civilization.

There is no State Church. The majority of the foreigners, as well

as of the natives, are Congregationalists. The missionaries

translated the Bible and other books into Hawaiian, taught the

natives to read and write, gave the princes and nobles a high class

education, induced the king and chiefs to renounce their oppressive

feudal rights, with legal advice framed a constitution which became

the law of the land, and obtained the recognition of the little

Polynesian kingdom as a member of the brotherhood of civilized

nations.

With these few remarks I leave the subject of the volume to develop

itself in my letters. They have not had the advantage of revision

by any one familiar with the Sandwich Islands, and mistakes and

inaccuracies may consequently appear, on which, I hope that my

Hawaiian friends will not be very severe. In correcting them, I

have availed myself of the very valuable "History of the Hawaiian

Islands," by Mr. Jackson Jarves, Ellis' "Tour Round Hawaii," Mr.

Brigham's valuable monograph on "The Hawaiian Volcanoes," and sundry

reports presented to the legislature during its present session. I

have also to express my obligations to the Hon. E. Allen, Chief

Justice and Chancellor of the Hawaiian kingdom, Mr. Manley Hopkins,

author of "Hawaii," Dr. T. M. Coan, of New York, Professor W.

Alexander, Daniel Smith, Esq., and other friends at Honolulu, for

assistance most kindly rendered.

ISABELLA L. BIRD.

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