THE WATER-DWELLERS OF MARACAIBO.

The Andes mountains, rising in the extreme southern point of South

America, not only extend throughout the whole length of that continent,

but continue on through Central America and Mexico, under the name of

"Cordilleras de Sierra Madre;" and still farther north to the shores of

the Arctic Sea, under the very inappropriate appellation of the "Rocky

Mountains." You must not suppose that these stupendous mountains form

one continuous elevation. At many places they furcate into various

branches, throwing off spurs, and sometime parallel "sierras," between

which lie wide "valles," or level plains of great extent. It is upon

these high plateaux--many of them elevated 7,000 feet above the sea--

that the greater part of the Spanish-American population dwells; and on

them too are found most of the large cities of Spanish South America and

Mexico.

These parallel chains meet at different points, forming what the

Peruvians term "nodas" (knots); and, after continuing for a distance in

one great cordillera, again bifurcate. One of the most remarkable of

these bifurcations of the Andes occurs about latitude 2 degrees North.

There the gigantic sierra separates into two great branches, forming a

shape like the letter Y, the left limb being that which is usually

regarded as the main continuation of these mountains through the Isthmus

of Panama, while the right forms the eastern boundary of the great

valley of the Magdalena river; and then, trending in an eastwardly

direction along the whole northern coast of South America to the extreme

point of the promontory of Paria.

Each of these limbs again forks into several branches or spurs,--the

whole system forming a figure that may be said to bear some resemblance

to a genealogical tree containing the pedigree of four or five

generations.

It is only with one of the bifurcations of the right or eastern sierra

that this sketch has to do. On reaching the latitude of 7 degrees

north, this chain separates itself into two wings, which, after

diverging widely to the east and west, sweep round again towards each

other, as if desirous to be once more united. The western wing advances

boldly to this reunion; but the eastern, after vacillating for a time,

as if uncertain what course to take, turns its back abruptly on its old

comrade, and trends off in a due east direction, till it sinks into

insignificance upon the promontory of Paria.

The whole mass of the sierra, however, has not been of one mind; for, at

the time of its indecision, a large spur detaches itself from the main

body, and sweeps round, as if to carry out the union with the left wing

advancing from the west. Although they get within sight of each other,

they are not permitted to meet,--both ending abruptly before the circle

is completed, and forming a figure bearing a very exact resemblance to

the shoe of a racehorse. Within this curving boundary is enclosed a

vast valley,--as large as the whole of Ireland,--the central portion of

which, and occupying about one third of its whole extent, is a sheet of

water, known from the days of the discovery of America, as the _Lake of

Maracaibo_.

It obtained this appellation from the name of an Indian cazique, who was

met upon its shores by the first discoverers; but although this lake was

known to the earliest explorers of the New World,--although it lies

contiguous to many colonial settlements both on the mainland and the

islands of the Caribbean Sea,--the lake itself and the vast territory

that surrounds it, remain almost as unknown and obscure as if they were

situated among the central deserts of Africa.

And yet the valley of Maracaibo is one of the most interesting portions

of the globe,--interesting not only as a _terra incognita_, but on

account of the diversified nature of its scenery and productions. It

possesses a _fauna_ of a peculiar kind, and its _flora_ is one of the

richest in the world, not surpassed,--perhaps not equalled,--by that of

any other portion of the torrid zone. To give a list of its vegetable

productions would be to enumerate almost every species belonging to

tropical America. Here are found the well-known medicinal plants,--the

sassafras and sarsaparilla, guaiacum, copaiva, cinchona, and cuspa, or

_Cortex Angosturae_; here are the deadly poisons of _barbasco_ and

_mavacure_, and alongside them the remedies of the "palo sano," and

_mikania guaco_. Here likewise grow plants and trees producing those

well-known dyes of commerce, the blue indigo, the red arnotto, the

lake-coloured chica, the brazilletto, and dragon's-blood; and above all,

those woods of red, gold, and ebon tints, so precious in the eyes of the

cabinet and musical-instrument makers of Europe.

Yet, strange to say, these rich resources lie, like treasures buried in

the bowels of the earth, or gems at the bottom of the sea, still

undeveloped. A few small lumbering establishments near the entrance of

the lake,--here and there a miserable village, supported by a little

coast commerce in dyewoods, or cuttings of ebony,--now and then a hamlet

of fishermen,--a "hato" of goats and sheep; and at wider intervals, a

"ganaderia" of cattle, or a plantation of cocoa-trees (_cocale_),

furnish the only evidence that man has asserted his dominion over this

interesting region. These settlements, however, are sparsely

distributed, and widely distant from one another. Between them stretch

broad savannas and forests,--vast tracts, untitled and even

unexplored,--a very wilderness, but a wilderness rich in natural

resources.

The Lake of Maracaibo is often, though erroneously, described as an arm

of the sea. This description only applies to the _Gulf of Maracaibo_,

which is in reality a portion of the Caribbean Sea. The lake itself is

altogether different, and is a true fresh-water lake, separated from the

gulf by a narrow neck or strait. Within this strait--called "boca," or

mouth--the salt water does not extend, except during very high tides or

after long-continued _nortes_ (north winds), which have the effect of

driving the sea-water up into the lake, and imparting to some portions

of it a saline or brackish taste. This, however, is only occasional and

of temporary continuance; and the waters of the lake, supplied by a

hundred streams from the horseshoe sierra that surrounds it, soon return

to their normal character of freshness.

The shape of Lake Maracaibo is worthy of remark. The main body of its

surface is of oval outline,--the longer diameter running north and

south,--but taken in connection with the straits which communicate with

the outer gulf, it assumes a shape somewhat like that of a Jew's-harp,

or rather of a kind of guitar, most in use among Spanish Americans, and

known under the name of "mandolin" (or "bandolon"). To this instrument

do the natives sometimes compare it.

Another peculiarity of Lake Maracaibo, is the extreme shallowness of the

water along its shores. It is deep enough towards the middle part; but

at many points around the shore, a man may wade for miles into the

water, without getting beyond his depth. This peculiarity arises from

the formation of the valley in which it is situated. Only a few spurs

of the sierras that surround it approach near the edge of the lake.

Generally from the bases of the mountains, the land slopes with a very

gentle declination,--so slight as to have the appearance of a perfectly

horizontal plain,--and this is continued for a great way under the

surface of the water. Strange enough, however, after getting to a

certain distance from the shore, the shoal water ends as abruptly as the

escarpment of a cliff, and a depth almost unfathomable succeeds,--as if

the central part of the lake was a vast subaqueous ravine, bounded on

both sides by precipitous cliffs. Such, in reality, is it believed to

be.

A singular phenomenon is observed in the Lake Maracaibo, which, since

the days of Columbus, has not only puzzled the Curious, but also the

learned and scientific, who have unsuccessfully attempted to explain it.

This phenomenon consists in the appearance of a remarkable light, which

shows itself in the middle of the night, and at a particular part of the

lake, near its southern extremity. This light bears some resemblance to

the _ignis fatuus_ of our own marshes; and most probably is a

phosphorescence of a similar nature, though on a much grander scale,--

since it is visible at a vast distance across the open water. As it is

seen universally in the same direction, and appears fixed in one place,

it serves as a beacon for the fishermen and dye-wood traders who

navigate the waters of the lake,--its longitude being precisely that of

the straits leading outward to the gulf. Vessels that have strayed from

their course, often regulate their reckoning by the mysterious "Farol de

Maracaibo" (Lantern of Maracaibo),--for by this name is the natural

beacon known to the mariners of the lake.

Various explanations have been offered to account for this singular

phenomenon, but none seem to explain it in a satisfactory manner. It

appears to be produced by the exhalations that arise from an extensive

marshy tract lying around the mouth of the river Zulia, and above which

it universally shows itself. The atmosphere in this quarter is usually

hotter than elsewhere, and supposed to be highly charged with

electricity; but whatever may be the chemical process which produces the

illumination, it acts in a perfectly silent manner. No one has ever

observed any explosion to proceed from it, or the slightest sound

connected with its occurrence.

Of all the ideas suggested by the mention of Lake Maracaibo, perhaps

none are so interesting as those that relate to its native inhabitants,

whose peculiar habits and modes of life not only astonished the early

navigators, but eventually gave its name to the lake itself and to the

extensive province in which it is situated. When the Spanish

discoverers, sailing around the shores of the gulf, arrived near the

entrance of Lake Maracaibo, they saw, to their amazement, not only

single houses, but whole villages, apparently floating upon the water!

On approaching nearer, they perceived that these houses were raised some

feet above the surface, and supported by posts or piles driven into the

mud at the bottom. The idea of Venice--that city built upon the sea, to

which they had been long accustomed--was suggested by these

_superaqueous_ habitations; and the name of _Venezuela_ (Little Venice)

was at once bestowed upon the coast, and afterwards applied to the whole

province now known as the Republic of Venezuela.

Though the "water villages" then observed have long since disappeared,

many others of a similar kind were afterwards discovered in Lake

Maracaibo itself, some of which are in existence to the present day.

Besides here and there an isolated habitation, situated in some bay or

"laguna," there are four principal villages upon this plan still in

existence, each containing from fifty to a hundred habitations. The

inhabitants of some of these villages have been "Christianised," that

is, have submitted to the teaching of the Spanish missionaries; and one

in particular is distinguished by having its little church--a regular

_water_ church--in the centre, built upon piles, just as the rest of the

houses are, and only differing from the common dwellings in being larger

and of a somewhat more pretentious style. From the belfry of this

curious ecclesiastical edifice a brazen bell may be heard at morn and

eve tolling the "oracion" and "vespers," and declaring over the wide

waters of the lake that the authority of the Spanish monk has replaced

the power of the cazique among the Indians of the Lake Maracaibo. Not

to all sides of the lake, however, has the cross extended its conquest.

Along its western shore roams the fierce unconquered Goajiro, who, a

true warrior, still maintains his independence; and even encroaches upon

the usurped possessions both of monk and "militario."

The _water-dweller_, however, although of kindred race with the Goajiro,

is very different, both in his disposition and habits of life. He is

altogether a man of peace, and might almost be termed a civilised

being,--that is, he follows a regular industrial calling, by which he

subsists. This is the calling of a fisherman, and in no part of the

world could he follow it with more certainty of success, since the

waters which surround his dwelling literally swarm with fish.

Lake Maracaibo has been long noted as the resort of numerous and

valuable species of the finny tribe, in the capture of which the Indian

fisherman finds ample occupation. He is betimes a fowler,--as we shall

presently see,--and he also sometimes indulges, though more rarely, in

the chase, finding game in the thick forests or on the green savannas

that surround the lake, or border the banks of the numerous "riachos"

(streams) running into it. On the savanna roams the graceful roebuck

and the "venado," or South-American deer, while along the river banks

stray the capibara and the stout tapir, undisturbed save by their fierce

feline enemies, the puma and spotted jaguar.

But hunting excursions are not a habit of the water Indian, whose

calling, as already observed, is essentially that of a fisherman and

"fowler," and whose subsistence is mainly derived from two kinds of

_water-dwellers_, like himself--one with fins, living below the surface,

and denominated _fish_; another with wings, usually resting _on_ the

surface, and known as _fowl_. These two creatures, of very different

kinds and of many different species, form the staple and daily food of

the Indian of Maracaibo.

In an account of his habits we stall begin by giving a description of

the mode in which he constructs his singular dwelling.

Like other builders he begins by selecting the site. This must be a

place where the water is of no great depth; and the farther from the

shore he can find a shallow spot the better for his purpose, for he has

a good reason for desiring to get to a distance from the shore, as we

shall presently see. Sometimes a sort of subaqueous island, or elevated

sandbank, is found, which gives him the very site he is in search of.

Having pitched upon the spot, his next care is to procure a certain

number of tree-trunks of the proper length and thickness to make

"piles." Not every kind of timber will serve for this purpose, for

there are not many sorts that would long resist decay and the wear and

tear of the water insects, with which the lake abounds. Moreover, the

building of one of these aquatic houses, although it be only a rude hut,

is a work of time and labour, and it is desirable therefore to make it

as permanent as possible. For this reason great care is taken in the

selection of the timber for the "piles."

But it so chances that the forests around the lake furnish the very

thing itself, in the wood of a tree known to the _Spanish inhabitants_

as the "vera," of "palo sano," and to the natives as "guaiac." It is

one of the zygophyls of the genus _Guaiacum_, of which there are many

species, called by the names of "iron-wood" or "lignum-vitae;" but the

species in question is the _tree_ lignum-vitae (_Guaiacum arboreum_),

which attains to a height of 100 feet, with a fine umbrella-shaped head,

and bright orange flowers. Its wood is so hard, that it will turn the

edge of an axe, and the natives believe that if it be buried for a

sufficient length of time under the earth it will turn to iron! Though

this belief is not literally true, as regards the _iron_, it is not so

much of an exaggeration as might be supposed. The "palo de fierro,"

when buried in the soil of Maracaibo or immersed in the waters of the

lake, in reality does undergo a somewhat similar metamorphose; in other

words, it turns into stone; and the petrified trunks of this wood are

frequently met with along the shores of the lake. What is still more

singular--the piles of the water-houses often become petrified, so that

the dwelling no longer rests upon wooden posts, but upon real columns of

stone!

Knowing all this by experience, the Indian selects the guaiac for his

uprights, cuts them of the proper length; and then, launching them in

the water, transports them to the site of his dwelling, and fixes them

in their places.

Upon this a platform is erected, out of split boards of some less

ponderous timber, usually the "ceiba," or "silk-cotton tree" (_Bombax

ceiba_), or the "cedro negro" (_Cedrela odorata_) of the order

_Meliaceae_. Both kinds grow in abundance upon the shores of the

lake,--and the huge trunks of the former are also used by the water

Indian for the constructing of his canoe.

The platform, or floor, being thus established, about two or three feet

above the surface of the water, it then only remains to erect, the walls

and cover them over with a roof. The former are made of the slightest

materials,--light saplings or bamboo poles,--usually left open at the

interstices. There is no winter or cold weather here,--why should the

walls be thick? There are heavy rains, however, at certain seasons of

the year, and these require to be guarded against; but this is not a

difficult matter, since the broad leaves of the "enea" and "vihai" (a

species of _Heliconia_) serve the purpose of a roof just as well as

tiles, slates, or shingles. Nature in these parts is bountiful, and

provides her human creatures with a spontaneous supply of every want.

Even ropes and cords she furnishes, for binding the beams, joists, and

rafters together, and holding on the thatch against the most furious

assaults of the wind. The numerous species of creeping and twining

plants ("llianas" or "sipos") serve admirably for this purpose. They

are applied in their green state, and when contracted by exsiccation

draw the timbers as closely together as if held by spikes of iron. In

this manner and of such materials does the water Indian build his house.

Why he inhabits such a singular dwelling is a question that requires to

be answered. With the _terra firma_ close at hand, and equally

convenient for all purposes of his calling, why does he not build his

hut there? So much easier too of access would it be, for he could then

approach it either by land or by water; whereas, in its present

situation, he can neither go away from his house or get back to it

without the aid of his "periagua" (canoe). Moreover, by building on the

beach, or by the edge of the woods, he would spare himself the labour of

transporting those heavy piles and setting them in their places,--a

work, as already stated, of no ordinary magnitude. Is it for personal

security against human enemies,--for this sometimes drives a people to

seek singular situations for their homes? No; the Indian of Maracaibo

has his human foes, like all other people; but it is none of these that

have forced him to adopt this strange custom. Other enemies? wild

beasts? the dreaded jaguar, perhaps? No, nothing of this kind. And yet

it is in reality a living creature that drives him to this resource,--

that has forced him to flee from the mainland and take to the water for

security against its attack,--a creature of such small dimensions, and

apparently so contemptible in its strength, that you will no doubt smile

at the idea of its putting a strong man to flight,--a little insect

exactly the size of an English gnat, and no bigger, but so formidable by

means of its poisonous bite, and its myriads of numbers, as to render

many parts of the shores of Lake Maracaibo quite uninhabitable. You

guess, no doubt, the insect to which I allude? You cannot fail to

recognise it as the _mosquito_? Just so; it is the mosquito I mean, and

in no part of South America do these insects abound in greater numbers,

and nowhere are they more bloodthirsty than upon the borders of this

great fresh-water sea. Not only one species of mosquito, but all the

varieties known as "jejens," "zancudos," and "tempraneros," here abound

in countless multitudes,--each kind making its appearance at a

particular hour of the day or night,--"mounting guard" (as the

persecuted natives say of them) in turn, and allowing only short

intervals of respite from their bitter attacks.

Now, it so happens, that although the various kinds of mosquitoes are

peculiarly the productions of a marshy or watery region,--and rarely

found where the soil is high and dry,--yet as rarely do they extend

their excursions to a distance from the land. They delight to dwell

under the shadow of leaves, or near the herbage of grass, plants, or

trees, among which they were hatched. They do not stray far from the

shore, and only when the breeze carries them do they fly out over the

open water. Need I say more? You have now the explanation why the

Indians of Maracaibo build their dwellings upon the water. It is simply

to escape from the "plaga de moscas" (the pest of the flies).

Like most other Indians of tropical America, and some even of colder

latitudes, those of Maracaibo go naked, wearing only the _guayueo_, or

"waist-belt." Those of them, however, who have submitted to the

authority of the monks, have adopted a somewhat more modest garb,--

consisting of a small apron of cotton or palm fibre, suspended from the

waist, and reaching down to their knees.

We have already stated, that the water-dwelling Indian is a fisherman,

and that the waters of the lake supply him with numerous kinds of fish

of excellent quality. An account of these, with the method employed in

capturing them, may not prove uninteresting.

First, there is the fish known as "liza," a species of skate. It is of

a brilliant silvery hue, with bluish corruscations. It is a small fish,

being only about a foot in length, but is excellent to eat, and when

preserved by drying, forms an article of commerce with the West-Indian

islands. Along the coasts of Cumana and Magarita, there are many people

employed in the _pesca de liza_ (skate-fishery); but although the liza

is in reality a sea fish, it abounds in the fresh waters of Maracaibo,

and is there also an object of industrial pursuit. It is usually

captured by seines, made out of the fibres of the _cocui aloe_ (_agave

cocuiza_), or of cords obtained from the unexpanded leaflets of the

moriche palm (_Mauritia flexuosa_), both of which useful vegetable

products are indigenous to this region. The roe of the liza, when dried

in the sun, is an article in high estimation, and finds its way into the

channels of commerce.

A still more delicate fish is the "pargo." It is of a white colour

tinged with rose; and of these great numbers are also captured. So,

too, with the "doncella," one of the most beautiful species, as its

pretty name of "doncella" (young maiden) would indicate. These last are

so abundant in some parts of the lake, that one of its bays is

distinguished by the name of _Laguna de Doncella_.

A large, ugly fish, called the "vagre," with an enormous head and wide

mouth, from each side of which stretches a beard-like appendage, is also

an object of the Indian's pursuit. It is usually struck with a spear,

or killed by arrows, when it shows itself near the surface of the water.

Another monstrous creature, of nearly circular shape, and full three

feet in diameter, is the "carite," which is harpooned in a similar

fashion.

Besides these there is the "viegita," or "old-woman fish," which itself

feeds upon lesser creatures of the finny tribe, and especially upon the

smaller species of shell-fish. It has obtained its odd appellation from

a singular noise which it gives forth, and which resembles the voice of

an old woman debilitated with extreme age.

The "dorado," or gilded fish--so called on account of its beautiful

colour--is taken by a hook, with no other bait attached than a piece of

white rag. This, however, must be kept constantly in motion, and the

bait is played by simply paddling the canoe over the surface of the

lake, until the dorado, attracted by the white meteor, follows in its

track, and eventually hooks itself.

Many other species of fish are taken by the water-Indians, as the

"lebranche" which goes in large "schools," and makes its breeding-place

in the lagunas and up the rivers, and the "guabina," with several kinds

of sardines that find their way into the tin boxes of Europe; for the

Maracaibo fisherman is not contented with an exclusive fish diet. He

likes a little "casava," or maize-bread, along with it; besides, he has

a few other wants to satisfy, and the means he readily obtains in

exchange for the surplus produce of his nets, harpoons, and arrows.

We have already stated that he is a fowler. At certain seasons of the

year this is essentially his occupation. The fowling season with him is

the period of northern winter, when the migratory aquatic birds come

down from the boreal regions of Prince Rupert's Land to disport their

bodies in the more agreeable waters of Lake Maracaibo. There they

assemble in large flocks, darkening the air with their myriads of

numbers, now fluttering over the lake, or, at other times, seated on its

surface silent and motionless. Notwithstanding their great numbers,

however, they are too shy to be approached near enough for the "carry"

of an Indian arrow, or a gun either; and were it not for a very cunning

stratagem which the Indian has adopted for their capture, they might

return again to their northern haunts without being minus an individual

of their "count."

But they are not permitted to depart thus unscathed. During their

sojourn within the limits of Lake Maracaibo their legions get

considerably thinned, and thousands of them that settle down upon its

inviting waters are destined never more to take wing.

To effect their capture, the Indian fowler, as already stated, makes use

of a very ingenious stratagem. Something similar is described as being

practised in other parts of the world; but in no place is it carried to

such perfection as upon the Lake Maracaibo.

The fowler first provides himself with a number of large gourd-shells of

roundish form, and each of them at least as big as his own skull. These

he can easily obtain, either from the herbaceous squash (_Cucurbita

lagenaris_) or from the calabash tree (_Crescentia cujete_), both of

which grow luxuriantly on the shores of the lake. Filling his periagua

with these, he proceeds out into the open water to a certain distance

from the land, or from his own dwelling. The distance is regulated by

several considerations. He must reach a place which, at all hours of

the day, the ducks and other waterfowl are not afraid to frequent; and,

on the other hand, he must not go beyond such a depth as will bring the

water higher than his own chin when wading through it. This last

consideration is not of so much importance, for the water Indian can

swim almost as well as a duck, and dive like one, if need be; but it is

connected with another matter of greater importance--the convenience of

having the birds as near as possible, to save him a too long and

wearisome "wade." It is necessary to have them so near, that at all

hours they may be under his eye.

Having found the proper situation, which the vast extent of shoal water

(already mentioned) enables him to do, he proceeds to carry out his

design by dropping a gourd here and another there, until a large space

of surface is covered by these floating shells. Each gourd has a stone

attached to it by means of a string, which, resting upon the bottom,

brings the buoy to an anchor, and prevents it from being drifted into

the deeper water or carried entirely away.

When his decoys are all placed, the Indian paddles back to his platform

dwelling, and there, with watchful eye, awaits the issue. The birds are

at first shy of these round yellow objects intruded upon their domain;

but, as the hours pass, and they perceive no harm in them, they at

length take courage and venture to approach. Urged by that curiosity

which is instinctive in every creature, they gradually draw nigher and

nigher, until at length they boldly venture into the midst of the odd

objects and examine them minutely. Though puzzled to make out what it

is all meant for, they can perceive no harm in the yellow globe-shaped

things that only bob about, but make no attempt to do them any injury.

Thus satisfied, their curiosity soon wears off, and the birds no longer

regarding the floating shells as objects of suspicion, swim freely about

through their midst, or sit quietly on the water side by side with them.

But the crisis has now arrived when it is necessary the Indian should

act, and for this he speedily equips himself. He first ties a stout

rope around his waist, to which are attached many short strings or

cords. He then draws over his head a large gourd-shell, which, fitting

pretty tightly, covers his whole skull, reaching down to his neck. This

shell is exactly similar to the others already floating on the water,

with the exception of having three holes on one side of it, two on the

same level with the Indian's eyes, and the third opposite his mouth,

intended to serve him for a breathing-hole.

He is now ready for work; and, thus oddly accoutred, he slips quietly

down from his platform, and laying himself along the water, swims gently

in the direction of the ducks.

He swims only where the water is too shallow to prevent him from

crouching below the surface; for were he to stand upright, and wade,--

even though he were still distant from them,--the shy birds might have

suspicions about his after-approaches.

When he reaches a point where the lake is sufficiently deep, he gets

upon his feet and wades, still keeping his shoulders below the surface.

He makes his advance very slowly and warily, scarce raising a ripple on

the surface of the placid lake, and the nearer he gets to his intended

victims he proceeds with the greater caution.

The unsuspecting birds see the destroyer approach without having the

slightest misgiving of danger. They fancy that the new comer is only

another of those inanimate objects by their side--another gourd-shell

drifting out upon the water to join its companions. They have no

suspicion that this wooden counterfeit--like the horse of Troy--is

inhabited by a terrible enemy.

Poor things! how could they? A stratagem so well contrived would

deceive more rational intellects than theirs; and, in fact, having no

idea of danger, they perhaps do not trouble themselves even to notice

the new arrival.

Meanwhile the gourd has drifted silently into their midst, and is seen

approaching the odd individuals, first one and afterwards another, as if

it had some special business with each. This business appears to be of

a very mysterious character; and in each case is abruptly brought to a

conclusion, by the duck making a sudden dive under the water,--not head

foremost, according to its usual practice, but in the reverse way, as if

jerked down by the feet, and so rapidly that the creature has not time

to utter a single "quack."

After quite a number of individuals have disappeared in this mysterious

manner, the others sometimes grow suspicious of the moving calabash, and

either take to wing, or swim off to a less dangerous neighbourhood; but

if the gourd performs its office in a skilful manner, it will be seen

passing several times to and fro between the birds and the water village

before this event takes place. On each return trip, when far from the

flock, and near the habitations, it will be seen to rise high above the

surface of the water. It will then be perceived that it covers the

skull of a copper-coloured savage, around whose hips may be observed a

double tier of dead ducks dangling by their necks from the rope upon his

waist, and forming a sort of plumed skirt, the weight of which almost

drags its wearer back into the water.

Of course a capture is followed by a feast; and during the fowling

season of the year the Maracaibo Indian enjoys roast-duck at discretion.

He does not trouble his head much about the green peas, nor is he

particular to have his ducks stuffed with sage and onions; but a hot

seasoning of red pepper is one of the indispensible ingredients of the

South-American _cuisine_; and this he usually obtains from a small patch

of capsicum which he cultivates upon the adjacent shore; or, if he be

not possessed of land, he procures it by barter, exchanging his fowls or

fish for that and a little maize or manioc flour, furnished by the

coast-traders.

The Maracaibo Indian is not a stranger to commerce. He has been

"Christianised,"--to use the phraseology of his priestly proselytiser,--

and this has introduced him to new wants and necessities. Expenses that

in his former pagan state were entirely unknown to him, have now become

necessary, and a commercial effort is required to meet them. The Church

must have its dues. Such luxuries as being baptised, married, and

buried, are not to be had without expense, and the padre takes good care

that none of these shall be had for nothing. He has taught his

proselyte to believe that unless all these rites have been officially

performed there is pot the slightest chance for him in the next world;

and under the influence of this delusion, the simple savage willingly

yields up his tenth, his fifth, or, perhaps it would be more correct to

say, his all. Between fees of baptism and burial, mulcts for

performance of the marriage rite, contributions towards the shows and

ceremonies of _dias de fiesta_, extravagant prices for blessed beads,

leaden crucifixes, and images of patron saints, the poor Christianised

Indian is compelled to part with nearly the whole of his humble gains;

and the fear of not being able to pay for Christian burial after death,

is often one of the torments of his life.

To satisfy the numerous demands of the Church, therefore, he is forced

into a little action in the commercial line. With the water-dweller of

Maracaibo, fish forms one of the staples of export trade,--of course in

the preserved state, as he is too distant from any great town or

metropolis to be able to make market of them while fresh. He

understands, however, the mode of curing them,--which he accomplishes by

sun-drying and smoking,--and, thus prepared, they are taken off his

hands by the trader, who carries them all over the West Indies, where,

with boiled rice, they form the staple food of thousands of the

dark-skinned children of Ethiopia.

The Maracaibo Indian, however, has still another resource, which

occasionally supplies him with an article of commercial export. His

country--that is, the adjacent shores of the lake--produces the finest

_caoutchouc_. There the India-rubber tree, of more than one species,

flourishes in abundance; and the true "seringa," that yields the finest

and most valuable kind of this gummy juice, is nowhere found in greater

perfection than in the forests of Maracaibo. The caoutchouc of commerce

is obtained from many other parts of America, as well as from other

tropical countries; but as many of the bottles and shoes so well-known

in the india-rubber shops, are manufactured by the Indians of Maracaibo,

we may not find a more appropriate place to give an account of this

singular production, and the mode by which it is prepared for the

purposes of commerce and manufacture.

As already mentioned, many species of trees yield india-rubber, most of

them belonging either to the order of the "Morads," or _Euphorbiaceae_.

Some are species of _ficus_, but both the genera and species are too

numerous to be given here. That which supplies the "bottle

india-rubber" is a euphorbiaceous plant,--the _seringa_ above

mentioned,--whose proper botanical appellation is _Siphonia elastica_.

It is a tall, straight, smooth-barked tree, having a trunk of about a

foot in diameter, though in favourable situations reaching to much

larger dimensions. The process of extracting its sap--out of which the

caoutchouc is manufactured--bears some resemblance to the tapping of

sugar-maples in the forests of the north.

With his small hatchet, or tomahawk, the Indian cuts a gash in the bark,

and inserts into it a little wedge of wood to keep the sides apart.

Just under the gash, he fixes a small cup-shaped vessel of clay, the

clay being still in a plastic state, so that it may be attached closely

to the bark. Into this vessel the milk-like sap of the _seringa_ soon

commences to run, and keeps on until it has yielded about the fifth of a

pint. This, however, is not the whole yield of a tree, but only of a

single wound; and it is usual to open a great many gashes, or "taps,"

upon the same trunk, each being furnished with its own cup or receiver.

In from four to six hours the sap ceases to run.

The cups are then detached from the tree, and the contents of all,

poured into a large earthen vessel, are carried to the place where the

process of making the caoutchouc is to take place,--usually some dry

open spot in the middle of the forest, where a temporary camp has been

formed for the purpose.

When the dwelling of the Indian is at a distance from where the

india-rubber tree grows,--as is the case with those of Lake Maracaibo,--

it will not do to transport the sap thither. There must be no delay

after the cups are filled, and the process of manufacture must proceed

at once, or as soon as the milky juice begins to coagulate,--which it

does almost on the instant.

Previous to reaching his camp, the "seringero" has provided a large

quantity of palm-nuts, with which he intends to make a fire for smoking

the caoutchouc. These nuts are the fruit of several kinds of palms, but

the best are those afforded by two magnificent species,--the "Inaja"

(_Maximiliana regia_), and the "Urucuri" (_Attalea excelsa_).

A fire is kindled of these nuts; and an earthen pot, with a hole in the

bottom, is placed mouth downward over the pile. Through the aperture

now rises a strong pungent smoke.

If it is a shoe that is intended to be made, a clay last is already

prepared, with a stick standing out of the top of it, to serve as a

handle, while the operation is going on. Taking the stick in his hand,

the seringero dips the last lightly into the milk, or with a cup pours

the fluid gently over it, so as to give a regular coating to the whole

surface; and then, holding it over the smoke, he keeps turning it,

jack-fashion, till the fluid has become dry and adhesive. Another dip

is then given, and the smoking done as before; and this goes on, till

forty or fifty different coats have brought the sides and soles of the

shoe to a proper thickness. The soles, requiring greater weight, are,

of course, oftener dipped than the "upper leather."

The whole process of making the shoe does not occupy half an hour; but

it has afterwards to receive some farther attention in the way of

ornament; the lines and figures are yet to be executed, and this is done

about two days after the smoking process. They are simply traced out

with a piece of smooth wire, or oftener with the spine obtained from

some tree,--as the thorny point of the _bromelia_ leaf.

In about a week the shoes are ready to be taken from the last; and this

is accomplished at the expense and utter ruin of the latter, which is

broken into fragments, and then cleaned out. Water is used sometimes to

soften the last, and the inner surface of the shoe is washed after the

clay has been taken out.

Bottles are made precisely in the same manner,--a round ball, or other

shaped mass of clay, serving as the mould for their construction. It

requires a little more trouble to get the mould extracted from the

narrow neck of the bottle.

It may be remarked that it is not the smoke of the palm-nuts that gives

to the india-rubber its peculiar dark colour; that is the effect of age.

When freshly manufactured, it is still of a whitish or cream colour;

and only attains the dark hue after it has been kept for a considerable

time.

We might add many other particulars about the mode in which the Indian

of Maracaibo employs his time, but perhaps enough has been said to show

that his existence is altogether an _odd_ one.

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