Chapter 1

ORIGINAL NARRATIVES

OF EARLY AMERICAN HISTORY

REPRODUCED UNDER THE AUSPICES OF THE

AMERICAN HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION

GENERAL EDITOR, J. FRANKLIN JAMESON, PH.D., LL.D., LITT.D.

DIRECTOR OF THE DEPARTMENT OF HISTORICAL RESEARCH IN THE

CARNEGIE INSTITUTION OF WASHINGTON

NARRATIVES OF EARLY VIRGINIA

BRADFORD'S HISTORY OF PLYMOUTH PLANTATION

WINTHROP'S JOURNAL "HISTORY OF NEW ENGLAND" (2 vols.)

NARRATIVES OF EARLY CAROLINA

NARRATIVES OF EARLY MARYLAND

NARRATIVES OF EARLY PENNSYLVANIA, WEST NEW JERSEY, AND DELAWARE

NARRATIVES OF NEW NETHERLAND

EARLY ENGLISH AND FRENCH VOYAGES

VOYAGES OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN

SPANISH EXPLORERS IN THE SOUTHERN UNITED STATES

SPANISH EXPLORATION IN THE SOUTHWEST

NARRATIVES OF THE INSURRECTIONS

NARRATIVES OF THE INDIAN WARS

JOHNSON'S WONDER-WORKING PROVIDENCE

THE JOURNAL OF JASPAR DANCKAERTS

NARRATIVES OF THE NORTHWEST

NARRATIVES OF THE WITCHCRAFT CASES

THE NORTHMEN, COLUMBUS, AND CABOT

_ORIGINAL NARRATIVES

OF EARLY AMERICAN HISTORY_

SPANISH EXPLORERS

IN THE

SOUTHERN UNITED STATES

1528-1543

THE NARRATIVE OF ALVAR NUÑEZ

CABEÇA DE VACA

EDITED BY

FREDERICK W. HODGE

OF THE BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY

THE NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION OF

HERNANDO DE SOTO

BY THE GENTLEMAN OF ELVAS

EDITED BY

THEODORE H. LEWIS

HONORARY MEMBER OF THE MISSISSIPPI HISTORICAL SOCIETY

THE NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION OF

CORONADO, BY PEDRO DE CASTAÑEDA

EDITED BY

FREDERICK W. HODGE

_New York_

BARNES & NOBLE, INC.

COPYRIGHT, 1907

BY CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS

ALL RIGHTS ASSIGNED TO BARNES & NOBLE, INC., 1946

_All rights reserved_

REPRINTED, 1965

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

NOTE

Although, in the narrative of the Gentleman of Elvas, the translation

by Buckingham Smith has been followed, some corrections have been

made in the text, and pains have been taken to set right, in

accordance with the Portuguese original at the Lenox Library, the

native proper names, on whose interpretation in the Indian languages

the identification of localities in many cases depends. If variations

from page to page in the spelling of some such names are observed by

the reader, they may be assumed to exist in the original.

The three narratives printed in this book are but a small selection

from among many scores; for the narratives of Spanish explorers in

the southern United States constitute an extensive literature. But if

interest and historical importance are both taken into account, it is

believed that these three hold an undisputed preëminence among such

"relations."

J. F. J.

CONTENTS

THE NARRATIVE OF ALVAR NUÑEZ CABEÇA DE VACA

EDITED BY FREDERICK W. HODGE

PAGE

THE NARRATIVE OF ALVAR NUÑEZ CABEÇA DE VACA 1

INTRODUCTION 3

Proem 12

Chapter 1. In which is told when the Armada sailed, and of the

Officers and Persons who went in it 14

Chapter 2. The Coming of the Governor to the Port of Xagua and

with a Pilot 18

Chapter 3. Our Arrival in Florida 19

Chapter 4. Our Entrance into the Country 20

Chapter 5. The Governor leaves the Ships 24

Chapter 6. Our Arrival at Apalache 28

Chapter 7. The Character of the Country 29

Chapter 8. We go from Aute 33

Chapter 9. We leave the Bay of Horses 37

Chapter 10. The Assault from the Indians 40

Chapter 11. Of what befell Lope de Oviedo with the Indians 44

Chapter 12. The Indians bring us Food 45

Chapter 13. We hear of other Christians 48

Chapter 14. The Departure of four Christians 49

Chapter 15. What befell us among the People of Malhado 52

Chapter 16. The Christians leave the Island of Malhado 55

Chapter 17. The Coming of Indians with André's Dorantes,

Castillo, and Estevanico 59

Chapter 18. The Story Figueroa recounted from Esquivel 63

Extract from the Letter of the Survivors 68

Chapter 19. Our Separation by the Indians 70

Chapter 20. Of our Escape 72

Chapter 21. Our Cure of some of the Afflicted 74

Chapter 22. The Coming of other Sick to us the next Day 76

Chapter 23. Of our Departure after having eaten the Dogs 82

Chapter 24. Customs of the Indians of that Country 83

Chapter 25. Vigilance of the Indians in War 85

Chapter 26. Of the Nations and Tongues 86

Chapter 27. We moved away and were well received 88

Chapter 28. Of another strange Custom 91

Chapter 29. The Indians plunder each other 94

Chapter 30. The Fashion of receiving us changes 99

Chapter 31. Of our taking the Way to the Maize 105

Chapter 32. The Indians give us the Hearts of Deer 108

Chapter 33. We see Traces of Christians 112

Chapter 34. Of sending for the Christians 113

Chapter 35. The Chief Alcalde receives us kindly the Night we

arrive 116

Chapter 36. Of building Churches in that Land 119

Chapter 37. Of what occurred when I wished to return 121

Chapter 38. Of what became of the Others who went to Indias 123

THE NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION OF HERNANDO

DE SOTO, BY THE GENTLEMAN OF ELVAS

EDITED BY THEODORE H. LEWIS

THE NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION OF HERNANDO DE SOTO, BY

THE GENTLEMAN OF ELVAS 127

INTRODUCTION 129

Epigram of Silveira 133

Prefatory Note by the Printer 134

Chapter 1. Who Soto was, and how he came to get the Government

of Florida 135

Chapter 2. How Cabeça de Vaca arrived at Court, and gave

Account of the Country of Florida; and of the

Persons who assembled at Seville to accompany

Don Hernando de Soto 136

Chapter 3. How the Portuguese went to Seville, and thence to

Sanlúcar; and how the Captains were appointed

over the Ships, and the People distributed among

them 138

Chapter 4. How the Adelantado with his People left Spain

going to the Canary Islands, and afterward

arrived in the Antillas 139

Chapter 5. Of the Inhabitants there are in the City of

Santiago and other Towns of the Island, the

Character of the Soil, and of the Fruit 140

Chapter 6. How the Governor sent Doña Ysabel with the Ships

from Santiago to Havana, while he with some of

the Men went thither by land 142

Chapter 7. How we left Havana and came to Florida, and what

other Matters took place 145

Chapter 8. Of some Inroads that were made, and how a Christian

was found who had been a long time in the

possession of a Cacique 148

Chapter 9. How the Christian came to the Land of Florida, who

he was, and of what passed at his Interview with

the Governor 149

Chapter 10. How the Governor, having sent the Ships to Cuba,

marched Inland, leaving one hundred Men at the

Port 153

Chapter 11. How the Governor arrived at Caliquen, and thence,

taking the Cacique with him, came to Napetaca,

where the Indians, attempting to rescue him,

had many of their Number killed and captured 156

Chapter 12. How the Governor arrived at Palache, and was

informed that there was much Gold inland 160

Chapter 13. How the Governor went from Apalache in quest of

Yupaha, and what befell him 164

Chapter 14. How the Governor left the Province of Patofa,

marching into a Desert Country, where he, with

his People, became exposed to great Peril, and

underwent severe Privation 169

Chapter 15. How the Governor went from Cutifachiqui in quest

of Coça, and what occurred to him on the Journey 175

Chapter 16. How the Governor left Chiaha, and, having run a

Hazard of falling by the Hands of the Indians

at Acoste, escaped by his Address: what occurred

to him on the Route, and how he came to Coça 181

Chapter 17. Of how the Governor went from Coça to Tascaluça 185

Chapter 18. How the Indians rose upon the Governor, and what

followed upon that Rising 190

Chapter 19. How the Governor set his Men in order of Battle, and

entered the town of Mauilla 192

Chapter 20. How the Governor set out from Mauilla to go to

Chicaça, and what befell him 194

Chapter 21. How the Indians returned to attack the Christians,

and how the Governor went to Alimamu, and they

tarried to give him Battle in the Way 199

Chapter 22. How the Governor went from Quizquiz, and thence to

the River Grande 201

Chapter 23. How the Governor went from Aquixo to Casqui, and

thence to Pacaha; and how this Country differs

from the other 205

Chapter 24. How the Cacique of Pacaha came in Peace, and he of

Casqui, having absented himself, returned to

excuse his Conduct; and how the Governor made

Friendship between the Chiefs 209

Chapter 25. How the Governor went from Pacaha to Aquiguate and

to Coligoa, and came to Cayas 213

Chapter 26. How the Governor went to visit the Province of

Tulla, and what happened to him 217

Chapter 27. How the Governor went from Tulla to Autiamque,

where he passed the Winter 221

Chapter 28. How the Governor went from Autiamque to Nilco, and

thence to Guachoya 224

Chapter 29. The Message sent to Quigaltam, and the Answer

brought back to the Governor, and what occurred

the while 228

Chapter 30. The Death of the Adelantado, Don Hernando de Soto,

and how Luys Moscoso de Alvarado was chosen

Governor 232

Chapter 31. How the Governor Luys de Moscoso left Guachoya and

went to Chaguete, and thence to Aguacay 235

Chapter 32. How the Governor went from Aguacay to Naguatex,

and what happened to him 238

Chapter 33. How the Cacique of Naguatex came to visit the

Governor, and how the Governor went thence, and

arrived at Nondacao 240

Chapter 34. How the Governor marched from Nondacao to

Soacatino and Guasco, passing through a

Wilderness, whence, for want of a Guide and

Interpreter, he retired to Nilco 243

Chapter 35. How the Christians returned to Nilco, and thence

went to Minoya, where they prepared to build

Vessels in which to leave Florida 246

Chapter 36. How Seven Brigantines were built, and the

Christians took their Departure from Aminoya 250

Chapter 37. How the Christians, on their Voyage, were attacked

in the River, by the Indians of Quigualtam, and

what happened 254

Chapter 38. How the Christians were Pursued by the Indians 257

Chapter 39. How the Christians came to the Sea, what occurred

then, and what befell them on the Voyage 259

Chapter 40. How the Brigantines lost Sight of each other in a

Storm, and afterwards came together at a Kay 262

Chapter 41. How the Christians arrived at the River Panico 264

Chapter 42. How the Christians came to Panico, and of their

Reception by the Inhabitants 266

Chapter 43. The Favor the People found in the Viceroy and

Residents of Mexico 268

Chapter 44. Which sets forth some of the Diversities and

Peculiarities of Florida; and the Fruit, Birds,

and Beasts of the Country 270

THE NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION OF CORONADO,

BY PEDRO DE CASTAÑEDA

EDITED BY FREDERICK W. HODGE

THE NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION OF CORONADO, BY PEDRO DE

CASTAÑEDA 273

INTRODUCTION 275

Preface 281

FIRST PART

Chapter 1. Which treats of the Way we first came to know about

the Seven Cities, and of how Nuño de Guzman made

an Expedition to discover them 285

Chapter 2. Of how Francisco Vazquez Coronado came to be

Governor, and the second Account which Cabeza

de Vaca gave 287

Chapter 3. Of how they killed the Negro Estevan at Cibola, and

Friar Marcos returned in Flight 289

Chapter 4. Of how the noble Don Antonio de Mendoza made an

Expedition to discover Cibola 290

Chapter 5. Concerning the Captains who went to Cibola 292

Chapter 6. Of how all the Companies collected in Compostela and

set off on the Journey in good Order 293

Chapter 7. Of how the Army reached Chiametla, and the Killing

of the Army-Master, and the other things that

happened up to the Arrival at Culiacan 295

Chapter 8. Of how the Army entered the Town of Culiacan and

the Reception it received, and other things

which happened before the Departure 297

Chapter 9. Of how the Army started from Culiacan and the

Arrival of the General at Cibola, and of the

Army at Señora and of other things that happened 298

Chapter 10. Of how the Army started from the Town of Señora,

leaving it inhabited, and how it reached Cibola,

and of what happened to Captain Melchior Diaz on

his Expedition in Search of the Ships and how he

discovered the Tison (Firebrand) River 302

Chapter 11. Of how Don Pedro de Tovar discovered Tusayan or

Tutahaco and Don Garcia Lopez de Cardenas saw

the Firebrand River, and the other things that

had happened 306

Chapter 12. Of how people came from Cicuye to Cibola to see

the Christians, and how Hernando de Alvarado went

to see the Cows 310

Chapter 13. Of how the General went toward Tutahaco with a few

Men and left the Army with Don Tristan, who took

it to Tiguex 313

Chapter 14. Of how the Army went from Cibola to Tiguex and

what happened to them on the way, on account of

the Snow 315

Chapter 15. Of why Tiguex revolted, and how they were

punished, without being to Blame for it 317

Chapter 16. Of how they besieged Tiguex and took it and of

what happened during the Siege 320

Chapter 17. Of how Messengers reached the Army from the Valley

of Señora, and how Captain Melchior Diaz died on

the Expedition to the Firebrand River 324

Chapter 18. Of how the General managed to leave the Country in

Peace so as to go in Search of Quivira, where the

Turk said there was the most Wealth 327

Chapter 19. Of how they started in Search of Quivira and of

what happened on the Way 329

Chapter 20. Of how great Stones fell in the Camp, and how they

discovered another Ravine, where the Army was

divided into two Parts 333

Chapter 21. Of how the Army returned to Tiguex and the General

reached Quivira 335

Chapter 22. Of how the General returned from Quivira and of

other Expeditions toward the North 339

SECOND PART

WHICH TREATS OF THE HIGH VILLAGES AND PROVINCES AND OF

THEIR HABITS AND CUSTOMS, AS COLLECTED BY PEDRO DE

CASTAÑEDA, NATIVE OF THE CITY OF NAJARA

Chapter 1. Of the Province of Culiacan and of its Habits and

Customs 344

Chapter 2. Of the Province of Petlatlan and all the Inhabited

Country as far as Chichilticalli 346

Chapter 3. Of Chichilticalli and the Desert, of Cibola, its

Customs and Habits, and of other things 349

Chapter 4. Of how they live at Tiguex, and of the Province of

Tiguex and its Neighborhood 352

Chapter 5. Of Cicuye and the Villages in its Neighborhood, and

of how some People came to conquer this Country 355

Chapter 6. Which gives the Number of Villages which were seen

in the Country of the Terraced Houses, and their

Population 358

Chapter 7. Which treats of the Plains that were crossed, of

the Cows, and of the People who inhabit them 361

Chapter 8. Of Quivira, of where it is and some Information

about it 364

THIRD PART

WHICH DESCRIBES WHAT HAPPENED TO FRANCISCO VAZQUEZ

CORONADO DURING THE WINTER, AND HOW HE GAVE UP THE

EXPEDITION AND RETURNED TO NEW SPAIN

Chapter 1. Of how Don Pedro de Tovar came from Señora with

some Men, and Don Garcia Lopez de Cardenas

started back to New Spain 366

Chapter 2. Of the General's Fall, and of how the Return to

New Spain was ordered 368

Chapter 3. Of the Rebellion at Suya and the Reasons the

Settlers gave for it 370

Chapter 4. Of how Friar Juan de Padilla and Friar Luis

remained in the Country and the Army prepared

to return to Mexico 372

Chapter 5. Of how the Army left the Settlements and marched

to Culiacan, and of what happened on the Way 375

Chapter 6. Of how the General started from Culiacan to give the

Viceroy an Account of the Army with which he had

been intrusted 377

Chapter 7. Of the Adventures of Captain Juan Gallego while he

was bringing Reënforcements through the Revolted

Country 379

Chapter 8. Which describes some remarkable things that were

seen on the Plains, with a Description of the

Bulls 381

Chapter 9. Which treats of the Direction which the Army took,

and of how another more direct Way might be found,

if anyone was to return to that Country 384

SPANISH EXPLORERS IN THE SOUTHERN UNITED STATES

THE NARRATIVE OF ALVAR NUÑEZ CABEZA DE VACA

INTRODUCTION

In some respects the journey of Alvar Nuñez Cabeza de Vaca and his

three companions overland from coast to coast during the eight years

from 1528 to 1536 is the most remarkable in the record of American

exploration, and as a narrative of suffering and privation the

relation here presented perhaps has no equal in the annals of the

northern continent.

The author of the narrative was a native of Jeréz de la Frontera,

in the province of Cadiz, in southern Spain, but the date of his

birth is not known. His father was Francisco de Vera, son of Pedro

de Vera, conqueror of the Grand Canary in 1483; his mother, Teresa

Cabeza de Vaca, who also was born in Jeréz. Why Alvar Nuñez assumed

the matronymic is not known, unless it was with a sense of pride that

he desired to perpetuate the name that had been bestowed by the King

of Navarre on his maternal ancestor, a shepherd named Martin Alhaja,

for guiding the army through a pass that he marked with the skull

of a cow (_cabeza de vaca_, literally "cow's head"), thus leading

the Spanish army to success in the battle of Las Navas de Tolosa, in

July, 1212, which led up to the final conquest of the Moors in Spain.

Having returned to Spain after many years of service in the New World

for the Crown, Pámfilo de Narvaez petitioned for a grant; and in

consequence the right to conquer and colonize the country between the

Rio de las Palmas, in eastern Mexico, and Florida was accorded him.

The expedition, consisting of six hundred colonists and soldiers,

set sail in five vessels from San Lucar de Barrameda, June 17, 1527,

and after various vicissitudes, including the wreck of two ships and

the loss of sixty men in a hurricane on the southern coast of Cuba,

was finally driven northward by storm, and landed, in April, 1528,

at St. Clements Point, near the entrance to Tampa Bay, on the west

coast of Florida. Despite the protest of Cabeza de Vaca, who had been

appointed treasurer of Rio de las Palmas by the King, Narvaez ordered

his ships to skirt the coast in an endeavor to find Pánuco, while

the expedition, now reduced to three hundred men by desertions in

Santo Domingo, death in the Cuban storm, and the return of those in

charge of the ships, started inland in a generally northern course.

The fleet searched for the expedition for a year and then sailed to

Mexico.

Among the members of the force, in addition to Alvar Nuñez Cabeza de

Vaca, were Andrés Dorantes de Carrança, son of Pablo, a native of

Béjar del Castañar, in Estremadura, who had received a commission as

captain of infantry on the recommendation of Don Alvaro de Zúñiga,

Duke of Béjar; Captain Alonzo del Castillo Maldonado, of Salamanca,

the son of Doctor Castillo and Aldonza Maldonado; and Estévan, or

Estévanico, a blackamoor of Asemmur, or Azamor, on the west coast

of Morocco, the slave of Dorantes. With the exception of those who

returned with the ships, these four men were the only ones of the

entire expedition who ever again entered a civilized community.

Pursuing a generally northerly course, harassed by Indians, and beset

with hunger, illness, and treachery in their ranks, Narvaez's party

finally reached the head of Appalachee Bay, in the country of the

Indians after whom this arm of the Gulf of Mexico takes its name.

Looking now to the sea as his only means of escape; Narvaez the

incompetent, with neither the proper materials nor the mechanics,

set about to build boats to conduct his men out of their trap--craft

that were expected to weather such tropical storms as they had

already so poorly buffeted with their stouter ships. Every object

of metal that the expedition afforded, even to stirrups and spurs,

was requisitioned for the manufacture of nails and necessary tools;

a rude forge was constructed, with bellows of wood and deer-skins;

the native palm supplied tow and covering; the horses were killed

and their hides used for water-bottles, while their flesh served the

Spaniards for food as the work went on; even the shirts from the very

backs of the men were fashioned into sails. Picturing the character

of the five boats, laden almost to the gunwales with nearly fifty men

each, besides such provisions as could be stowed away, and the untold

hardship from thirst after the decay of the horse-hide canteens, the

chief wonder is that the motley fleet survived long enough to reach

Pensacola Bay. As it passed the mouth of the Mississippi, the current

was so swift that fresh water was dipped from the gulf, and the wind

so strong that the boats were carried beyond sight of land for three

days, and for a time lost sight of each other. For four days more,

two of the boats, including that in which was Cabeza de Vaca, drifted

within view of each other; but another storm arose, again they were

lost to sight, and one by one the occupants succumbed to exhaustion

and cast themselves into the bottom of the boat, until Cabeza de Vaca

alone was left to steer the flimsy craft in its unknown course. Night

came on and the author of our narrative lay down to rest. The next

morning, November 6, 1528, the boat was cast ashore on a long narrow

island, inhabited by savages, on the Texas coast.

On this "Island of Misfortune" Cabeza de Vaca's party was soon

joined by that of one of the other boats, including Dorantes, so

that altogether the island harbored about eighty Spaniards. Four men

later attempted to reach Pánuco, but all perished but one. During

the following winter disease raged among the little colony, reducing

it to fifteen. Then the Spaniards became separated, Dorantes and his

slave Estévan, now both the slaves of the Indians, were taken to

the mainland, whither Cabeza de Vaca, weary of root-digging on the

island shore, also escaped, becoming a trader among the Indians,

journeying far inland and along the coast from tribe to tribe, for

forty or fifty leagues. Every year during the five years that he

plied his trade as a dealer in shells, sea-beads, medicine-beans,

skins, ochre, and the like, he returned to Malhado, where Lope de

Oviedo, and Alvarez, a sick companion, still remained. Finally the

latter died, and Cabeza de Vaca and Oviedo again sought the main in

the hope of reaching Christian people. Journeying southward along the

coast, they crossed the Brazos and other rivers, and finally reached

San Antonio Bay. Here Oviedo, owing to ill-treatment by the Indians,

deserted Cabeza de Vaca, who shortly after also stole away from the

savages and joined Dorantes, Castillo Maldonado, and the Moor (the

sole survivors of the party of twelve who had left Malhado years

before), whose Indian masters had come down the river, evidently the

San Antonio, to gather walnuts.

Once more together, the Christians planned to escape six months

hence, when all the Indians from the surrounding country gathered on

the southern Texas plains to eat prickly pears. But again were they

doomed to disappointment, for although the savages assembled in the

tuna fields, a quarrel arose among them (there was "a woman in the

case"), which caused the Spaniards to be separated for another year.

Their escape was finally accomplished in the manner they had planned;

but their departure for the Christian land was not at once effected,

by reason of the inhospitable character of the country, which

compelled them to sojourn among other Indians until the beginning of

another prickly-pear season.

While among the Avavares, with whom the Spaniards lived for eight

months, they resumed the treatment of the sick, a practice that had

first been forced on them, by the natives of Malhado Island, under

threat of starvation. With such success did the Spaniards, and

especially Cabeza de Vaca, meet, that their reputation as healers

was sounded far and wide among the tribes, thousands of the natives

following them from place to place and showering gifts upon them.

There are few Spanish narratives that are more unsatisfactory to

deal with by reason of the lack of directions, distances, and other

details, than that of Cabeza de Vaca; consequently there are scarcely

two students of the route who agree. His line of travel through

Texas was twice crossed by later explorers,--in 1541 by the army of

Francisco Vazquez Coronado, on the eastern edge of the Stake Plains,

and again in 1582 by Antonio de Espejo, on the Rio Grande below the

present El Paso. These data, with the clews afforded by the narrative

itself, point strongly to a course from the tuna fields, about

thirty leagues inland from San Antonio Bay, to the Rio Colorado and

perhaps to the Rio Llano, westward across the lower Pecos to the Rio

Grande above the junction of the Conchos, thence in an approximately

straight line across Chihuahua and Sonora to the Rio Sonora, where

we find Cabeza de Vaca's Village of the Hearts, which Coronado also

visited in 1540, at or in the vicinity of the present Ures. Soon

after he reached this point traces of the first Christians were seen,

and shortly after the Spaniards themselves, in the form of a military

body of slave-hunters.

As to the character of our chronicler, he seems to have been an

honest, modest, and humane man, who underestimated rather than

exaggerated the many strange things that came under his notice, if we

except the account of his marvellous healings, even to the revival

of the dead. The expedition of Narvaez was in itself a disastrous

and dismal failure, reaching "an end alike forlorn and fatal"; but

viewed from the standpoint of present-day civilization, the commander

deserved his fate. On the other hand, while one might well hesitate

to say that the accomplishment of Cabeza de Vaca and his three

companions compensated their untold sufferings, the world eventually

became the wiser in more ways than one. The northern continent had

been penetrated from shore to shore; the waters of the Mississippi

and the bison of the plains were now first seen by white men; and

some knowledge of the savage tribes had been gleaned for the benefit

of those who should come after. There is no blatant announcement of

great mineral wealth--a mountain with scoria of iron, some small bags

of mica, a quantity of galena, with which the Indians painted their

faces, a little turquoise, a few emeralds, and a small copper bell

were all. Yet the effect of the remarkable overland journey was to

inspire the expedition of Coronado in 1540; and it is not improbable

that De Soto, who endeavored to enlist the services of Cabeza de

Vaca, may likewise have been stimulated to action.

After the three Spaniards returned to Mexico they united in a report

to the Audiencia of Española (Santo Domingo), which is printed in

Oviedo's _Historia General y Natural de las Indias_ (tomo III., lib.

XXXV., ed. 1853). In April, 1537, they embarked for Spain, but the

ship in which Dorantes set sail proved to be unseaworthy and returned

to Vera Cruz. Invited to the capital by the Viceroy Mendoza, Dorantes

was tendered a commission to explore the northern country, but this

project was never carried out.

Cabeza de Vaca, in reward for his services, was appointed governor,

captain-general, and adelantado of the provinces of Rio de la Plata.

Sailing from Cadiz in November, 1540, he reached Brazil in March

of the following year. Here he remained seven months, when he sent

his vessels ahead to Buenos Ayres and started overland to Asuncion,

which he reached in March, 1542, after a remarkable experience in

the tropical forests. But the province seems to have needed a man of

sterner stuff than Alvar Nuñez, for he soon became the subject of

animosity and intrigue, which finally resulted in open rebellion,

and his arrest in April, 1543. He was kept under close guard for

about two years, when he was sent to Spain, and in 1551 was sentenced

to banishment in Africa for eight years--a judgment that does not

seem to have been carried out, for after serving probably a year or

so in mild captivity at Seville, he was acquitted. He died in 1557.

Of the subsequent career of Castillo little is known. He returned to

New Spain, became a citizen of the City of Mexico, married a widow,

and was granted half the rents of the Indian town of Tehuacan.

Dorantes, as has been stated, for some reason did not carry out

the plan of exploring the north, perhaps because of the projected

expedition of Coronado, the way for which was led by Fray Marcos

de Niza in 1539 with the negro Estévan as a guide. Dorantes served

Mendoza in the conquest of Jalisco, and married Doña María de la

Torre, a widow, by whom he had a large family. One of his sons,

Balthasar, sometime king's treasurer of Vera Cruz, was born about the

middle of the century, and on the death of his father inherited an

_encomienda_ that produced an income of five thousand pesos a year.

Another son, Gaspar, inherited the _encomienda_ of the pueblos of

Ocava; and another, Melchior, "an _encomienda_ of Indians and of very

good rents."

Of Estévan there is somewhat more definite information. Well on the

road toward the north in 1539, he was sent ahead by Fray Marcos to

report the character of the country and its people, and with rattle

in hand and accompanied by many Indians of the present Gila River

region, entered Háwikuh, the first of the Seven Cities of Cibola.

Here Estévan and most of his Indian followers were put to death by

the Zuñis; those who escaped fled to Fray Marcos, whose life was

threatened but who saved himself by regaling the natives with the

contents of his pack.

There was another survivor of the inland expedition of Narvaez--Juan

Ortiz by name. This Spaniard, who had been enticed ashore by the

Indians of Florida, led practically the life of a slave, like his

countrymen on the Texas main, until 1539, when he was rescued by De

Soto, but he died before the expedition returned to civilization.

The _Relación_ of Alvar Nuñez Cabeza de Vaca was first printed

at Zamora in 1542, and with slight changes was reprinted, with

the first edition of the _Comentarios_ on the Rio de la Plata, at

Valladolid, in 1555. The _editio princeps_ was translated into

Italian by Ramusio, in the third volume of his _Navigationi et

Viaggi_ (Venice, 1556), and this was paraphrased into English by

Samuel Purchas in volume IV. of _Purchas His Pilgrimes_ (London,

1613, pt. IV., lib. VIII., cap. 1). The _Naufragios_ (or _Relacion_)

and _Comentarios_ were reprinted at Madrid in 1736, preceded by the

_Exámen Apologético_ of Antonio Ardoino, who seemed to feel it his

duty to reply to an Austrian monk named Caspar Plautus, who, in

1621, under the name Philoponus, published a treatise in which he

maintained that laymen like Cabeza de Vaca should not be permitted to

perform miracles. This edition of the narration of Cabeza de Vaca is

included in volume I. of Barcia's _Historiadores Primitivos de las

Indias Occidentales_, published at Madrid in 1749. The _Naufragios_

of Alvar Nuñez, from the edition of 1555, appears in volume I. of

Vedia's _Historiadores Primitivos de Indias_ (Madrid, ed. 1852). The

letter to the Audiencia of Española, "edited" by Oviedo, has already

been alluded to. A "Capitulacion que se tomó con Alvar Nuñez Cabeza

de Vaca," dated Madrid, 18 Marzo, 1540, is found in the _Colección de

Documentos Inéditos del Archivo de Indias_ (tomo XXIII., pp. 8-33,

1875). A _Relación_ by Cabeza de Vaca, briefly narrating the story

of the expedition until the arrival of its survivors in Espíritu

Santo Bay, with his instructions as treasurer, is printed in the

_Colección de Documentos de Indias_, XIV. 265-279 (Madrid, 1870). The

most recent Spanish edition of the more famous _Relacion_ reprinted

in the following pages forms a part of volume V. of the _Colección

de Libros y Documentos referentes á la Historia de América_ (Madrid,

1906), which also contains the _Comentarios_.

The single French translation was published as volume VII. of Henri

Ternaux-Compans's _Voyages_ (Paris, 1837), from the edition of 1555,

while the _Commentaires_ form volume VI.

In 1851 a translation of the edition of 1555 into English, by

(Thomas) Buckingham Smith, under the title The _Narrative of Alvar

Nuñez Cabeça de Vaca_, was published privately at Washington by

George W. Riggs; and shortly after Mr. Smith's death, in 1871,

another edition, with many additions, was published in New York under

the editorial supervision of John Gilmary Shea and at the expense of

Henry C. Murphy. It is this edition of the _Narrative_ that is here

reprinted. A paraphrase of the 1851 edition of Smith's translation

appears in Henry Kingsley's _Tales of Old Travels_ (London, 1869).

The first fourteen chapters of W. W. H. Davis's _Spanish Conquest

of New Mexico_ (Doylestown, Pa., 1869) are also a paraphrase of

the same work. Chapters XXX.-XXXVI. of the 1871 edition of Smith,

somewhat abridged, were printed in an _Old South Leaflet_ (Gen.

Ser., No. 39, Boston, 1893). A "Relation of what Befel the Persons

who Escaped from the Disasters that Attended the Armament of Captain

Pamphilo de Narvaez on the Shores and in the countries of the North,"

translated and condensed from the letter published by Oviedo, is

printed in _The Historical Magazine_ (vol. XII., pp. 141, 204, 267,

347; September-December, 1867). The most recent English edition of

the Cabeza de Vaca _Relation_, translated from the very rare imprint

of 1542 by Mrs. Fanny Bandelier, and edited, with an introduction,

by her husband Ad. F. Bandelier, was published in New York, in 1905,

under the title, _The Journey of Alvar Nuñez Cabeza de Vaca_, as one

of the volumes of the "Trail Makers" series.

F. W. HODGE.

THE NARRATIVE OF CABEZA DE VACA

_Relation that Alvar Nuñez Cabeça de Vaca gave of what befell

the armament in the Indies whither Pánfilo de Narváez went for

Governor from the year 1527 to the year 1536 [1537] when with

three comrades he returned and came to Sevilla._[1]

[1] This heading is taken from the title-page of the edition of

1542. The edition of 1555, generally followed in this book, has a

title-page so phrased as to cover both the North American and the

South American narratives of the author. The return really took

place in 1537.

PROEM

SACRED CAESARIAN CATHOLIC MAJESTY:

Among the many who have held sway, I think no prince can be found

whose service has been attended with the ardor and emulation shown

for that of your Highness[2] at this time. The inducement is evident

and powerful: men do not pursue together the same career without

motive, and strangers are observed to strive with those who are

equally impelled by religion and loyalty.

[2] The Emperor Charles V.

Although ambition and love of action are common to all, as to the

advantages that each may gain, there are great inequalities of

fortune, the result not of conduct, but only accident, nor caused by

the fault of any one, but coming in the providence of God and solely

by His will. Hence to one arises deeds more signal than he thought to

achieve; to another the opposite in every way occurs, so that he can

show no higher proof of purpose than his effort, and at times even

this is so concealed that it cannot of itself appear.

As for me, I can say in undertaking the march I made on the main

by the royal authority, I firmly trusted that my conduct and

services would be as evident and distinguished as were those of my

ancestors[3] and that I should not have to speak in order to be

reckoned among those who for diligence and fidelity in affairs your

Majesty honors. Yet, as neither my counsel nor my constancy availed

to gain aught for which we set out, agreeably to your interests, for

our sins, no one of the many armaments that have gone into those

parts has been permitted to find itself in straits great like ours,

or come to an end alike forlorn and fatal. To me, one only duty

remains, to present a relation of what was seen and heard in the ten

years[4] I wandered lost and in privation through many and remote

lands. Not merely a statement of positions and distances, animals

and vegetation, but of the diverse customs of the many and very

barbarous people with whom I talked and dwelt, as well as all other

matters I could hear of and discern, that in some way I may avail

your Highness. My hope of going out from among those nations was

always small, still my care and diligence were none the less to keep

in particular remembrance everything, that if at any time God our

Lord should will to bring me where I now am, it might testify to my

exertion in the royal behalf.

[3] He doubtless refers particularly to the services of his

grandfather, Pedro de Vera, conqueror of the Canaries, to whom he

refers at the close of this work. See the Introduction.

[4] He arrived in Florida with the Narvaez expedition in April,

1528, and reached New Spain overland in April, 1536--eight years

later.

As the narrative is in my opinion of no trivial value to those who in

your name go to subdue those countries and bring them to a knowledge

of the true faith and true Lord, and under the imperial dominion,

I have written this with much exactness; and although in it may be

read things very novel and for some persons difficult to believe,

nevertheless they may without hesitation credit me as strictly

faithful. Better than to exaggerate, I have lessened in all things,

and it is sufficient to say the relation is offered to your Majesty

for truth. I beg it may be received in the name of homage, since it

is the most that one could bring who returned thence naked.

Chapter 1

_In which is told when the Armada sailed, and of the officers and

persons who went in it._

On the seventeenth day[5] of June, in the year fifteen hundred and

twenty-seven, the Governor Pánphilo de Narváez left the port of San

Lúcar de Barrameda,[6] authorized and commanded by your Majesty

to conquer and govern the provinces of the main, extending from

the River Palmas[7] to the cape of Florida. The fleet he took was

five ships, in which went six hundred men, a few more or less; the

officers (for we shall have to speak of them), were these, with their

rank: Cabeça de Vaca, treasurer and high-sheriff; Alonso Enrriquez,

comptroller; Alonso de Solis, distributor to your Majesty and

assessor; Juan Xuarez,[8] a friar of Saint Francis, commissary, and

four more friars of the same order.

[5] The Spanish edition of 1542 has the date June 27.

[6] At the mouth of the Guadalquivir, in the province of Cadiz,

Spain; noted as the point of debarkation of Fernão Magalhães, or

Magellan, September 20, 1519.

[7] Probably the Rio de Santander, which enters the Gulf of

Mexico one hundred miles north of Tampico. The name was later

applied to the province that joined the province of Pánuco on the

north. The latter was, in general terms, the region drained by

the streams that empty into the Gulf about Tampico.

[8] The edition of 1542 has "Juan Gutierrez."

We arrived at the island of Santo Domingo, where we tarried near

forty-five days, engaged in procuring for ourselves some necessary

material, particularly horses. Here we lost from our fleet more than

one hundred and forty men, who wished to remain, seduced by the

partidos,[9] and advantages held out to them by the people of that

country.

[9] A term often used to designate one of the districts or

territories into which a Spanish province was divided for

purposes of administration, and having a head pueblo or village;

but here employed to signify the favorable proposals which the

colonists made to the deserters from the fleet.

We sailed from the island and arrived at Santiago,[10] a port of

Cuba, where, during some days that we remained, the Governor supplied

himself further with men, also with arms and horses. It happened

there that a gentleman, Vasco Porcallo[11] of Trinidad, which is also

on the island,[12] offered to give the Governor some provisions which

he had in the town, a hundred leagues from the port of Santiago.

Accordingly the Governor set out with all the fleet for Trinidad; but

coming to a port half way, called Cabo de Santa Cruz,[13] he thought

it well to wait there, and send a vessel to bring the stores. To this

end he ordered that a Captain Pantoja[14] should go for them with

his ship, and for greater security, that I should accompany him with

another. The Governor remained with four ships, having bought one at

the island of Santo Domingo.

[10] In southeastern Cuba, the Santiago de Cuba that was

surrendered to the American forces in the summer of 1898.

[11] Vasco Porcallo de Figueroa afterward became De Soto's

lieutenant-general in Florida, but returned to Cuba early in the

history of the expedition.

[12] On the southern coast, longitude 80°.

[13] Now Cabo Cruz, longitude 77° 40'.

[14] One Juan Pantoja, captain of crossbowmen and Lord of

Ixtlahuaca, accompanied Narvaez on his first expedition to

Mexico. If the same as the present Pantoja, which seems likely,

he was killed by Sotomayor in a quarrel. See ch. 17.

We having arrived with the two vessels at the port of Trinidad,

Captain Pantoja went with Vasco Porcalle (_sic_) to the town, a

league off, to receive the provisions, while I remained at sea with

the pilots, who said we ought to go thence with the greatest despatch

possible, for it was a very bad port in which many vessels were lost.

As what there occurred to us was very remarkable, it appears to me

not foreign to the purpose with which I write this, to relate it here.

The next morning began to give signs of bad weather; rain commenced

falling, and the sea ran so high, that, although I gave the men

permission to go on shore, many of them returned to the ship to avoid

exposure to the wet and cold, and because the town was a league away.

In this time a canoe came off, bringing me a letter from a resident

of the place, asking me to come for the needed provisions that were

there; from which request I excused myself, saying that I could not

leave the ships. At noon the canoe returned with another letter, in

which I was solicited again with much urging, and a horse was brought

for me to ride. I gave the same answer as before, that I could not

leave the ships; but the pilots and the people entreated me to go, so

that I might hasten the provisions as fast as possible, and we might

join the fleet where it lay, for they had great fear lest remaining

long in this port, the ships should be lost. For these reasons,

I determined to go to the town; but first I left orders with the

pilots, that if the south wind, which often wrecks vessels there,

came on to blow, and they should find themselves in much danger, to

put the ships on shore at some place where the men and horses could

be saved. I wished to take some of the men with me for company; but

they said the weather was too rainy and cold, and the town too far

off; that to-morrow, which was Sunday, they would come, with God's

help, and hear mass.

An hour after I left, the sea began to rise very high, and the north

wind was so violent that neither the boats dared come to land, nor

could the vessels be let drive on shore, because of the head wind,

so that the people remained severely laboring against the adverse

weather, and under a heavy fall of water all that day and Sunday

until dark. At this time, the rain and the tempest had increased to

such a degree, there was no less agitation in the town than on the

sea; for all the houses and churches fell, and it was necessary in

order to move upright, that we should go seven or eight holding on

to each other that the wind might not blow us away; and walking in

the groves, we had no less fear of the trees than of the houses, as

they too were falling and might kill us under them. In this tempest

and danger we wandered all night, without finding place or spot where

we could remain a half-hour in safety. During the time, particularly

from midnight forward, we heard much tumult and great clamor of

voices, the sound of timbrels, flutes, and tambourines, as well as

other instruments, which lasted until the morning, when the tempest

ceased. Nothing so terrible as this storm had been seen in those

parts before. I drew up an authenticated account of it, and sent the

testimony to your Majesty.

On Monday morning we went down to the harbor, but did not find the

ships. The buoys belonging to them were floating on the water; whence

we knew the ships were lost, and we walked along the shore to see

if any thing could be found of them. As nothing was discovered, we

struck into the woods, and, having travelled about a quarter of a

league in water, we found the little boat of a ship lodged upon some

trees. Ten leagues thence, along the coast, two bodies were found,

belonging to my ship, and some lids of boxes; but the persons were

so disfigured by beating against the rocks that they could not be

recognized. A cloak too was seen, also a coverlet rent in pieces,

and nothing more. Sixty persons were lost in the ships, and twenty

horses. Those who had gone on shore the day of our arrival, who may

have been as many as thirty, were all the survivors of both ships.

During some days we were struggling with much hardship and hunger;

for the provisions and subsistence were destroyed, and some herds.

The country was left in a condition piteous to behold; the trees

prostrate, the woods parched, there being neither grass nor leaf.

Thus we lived until the fifth of November, when the Governor arrived

with four ships, which had lived through the great storm, having run

into a place of safety in good time. The people who came in them,

as well as those on shore, were so intimidated by what had passed,

that they feared to go on board in the winter, and they besought the

Governor to spend it there. Seeing their desire and that it was also

the wish of the townspeople, he staid through the season. He gave the

ships and people into my charge, that I might go with them to pass

the winter at the port of Xagua,[15] twelve leagues thence, where I

remained until the twentieth day of February.

[15] The present Jagua, at the entrance to the bay of Cienfuegos.

Chapter 2

_The coming of the Governor to the Port of Xagua and with a pilot._

At this time, the Governor arrived with a brigantine bought in

Trinidad, and brought with him a pilot named Miruelo, who was

employed because he said he knew the position of the River Palmas,

and had been there, and was a thorough pilot for all the coast of

the North. The Governor had also purchased and left on the shore

of Havana another vessel, of which Alvaro de la Cerda remained in

charge, with forty infantry and twelve cavalry.

The second day after arrival the Governor set sail with four hundred

men and eighty horses, in four ships and a brigantine. The pilot

being again on board, put the vessels among the shoals they call

Canarreo,[16] and on the day following we struck: thus we were

situated fifteen days, the keels of our vessels frequently touching

bottom. At the end of this time, a tempest from the south threw

so much water upon the shoals that we could get off, although not

without danger. We left this place and arrived at Guaniguanico, where

another storm overtook us, in which we were at one time near being

lost. At Cape Corrientes[17] we had still another, which detained

us three days. These places being passed, we doubled Cape Sant

Anton,[18] and sailed with head winds until we were within twelve

leagues of Havana. Standing in the next day to enter the harbor, a

wind came from the south which drove us from the land towards the

coast of Florida. We came in sight on Tuesday, the twelfth day of

April, and sailed along the coast. On Holy Thursday we anchored near

the shore in the mouth of a bay[19] at the head of which we saw some

houses or habitations of Indians.[20]

[16] Evidently one of the numerous keys between Xagua Bank and

the Isle of Pines.

[17] Southwestern Cuba.

[18] The westernmost point of the island.

[19] The place of landing is identified as having been about

St. Clement's Point, on the peninsula west of Tampa Bay, on

the western coast of Florida. See Woodbury Lowery, _Spanish

Settlements_, 1513-1561 (New York, 1901), p. 177, and App. J.

[20] These were Indians belonging to the Timuquanan, or Timucuan

family, now entirely extinct. The Seminoles were comparatively

recent intruders in the peninsula, except in the extreme northern

part.

Chapter 3

_Our arrival in Florida._

On the same day[21] the comptroller, Alonzo Enrriquez, landed on an

island in the bay. He called to the Indians, who came and remained

with him some time; and in barter gave him fish and several pieces of

venison. The day following, which was Good Friday,[22] the governor

debarked with as many of the people as the boats he brought could

contain. When we came to the _buhíos_,[23] or houses that we had

seen, we found them vacant and abandoned, the inhabitants having fled

at night in their canoes. One of the buhíos was very large; it could

hold more than three hundred persons. The others were smaller. We

found a tinklet of gold among some fish nets.

[21] April 14, 1528.

[22] April 15, 1528

[23] An Arawak term for house, referring specifically to a

dwelling with an open shed attached. The Spaniards became

acquainted with the word in Santo Domingo. For descriptions of

these habitations see Fewkes, "The Aborigines of Porto Rico and

Neighboring Islands," _Twenty-fifth Annual Report of the Bureau

of American Ethnology_, 1906.

The next day[24] the Governor raised ensigns for your Majesty, and

took possession of the country in your royal name.[25] He made known

his authority, and was obeyed as governor, as your Majesty had

commanded. At the same time we laid our commissions before him, and

he acknowledged them according to their tenor. Then he ordered that

the rest of the people and the horses should land. Of the beasts

there were only forty-two; by reason of the great storms and the

length of time passed at sea, the rest were dead. These few remaining

were so lean and fatigued that for the time we could have little

service from them. The following day the Indians of the town came and

spoke to us; but as we had no interpreter we could not understand

what they meant. They made many signs and menaces, and appeared to

say we must go away from the country. With this they left us and went

off, offering no interruption.

[24] April 16, 1528.

[25] For the interesting if farcical formula used in taking

possession of a country in the name of Spain, see Buckingham

Smith, _Relation of Alvar Nuñez Cabeça de Vaca_ (ed. 1871), App.

III., 215-217, and Lowery, _op. cit._, pp. 178-180.

Chapter 4

_Our entrance into the country._

The day following, the Governor resolved to make an incursion to

explore the land, and see what it might contain. With him went the

commissary, the assessor, and myself, with forty men, among them six

cavalry, of which we could make little use. We took our way towards

the north,[26] until the hour of vespers, when we arrived at a very

large bay that appeared to stretch far inland.[27] We remained there

that night, and the next day we returned to the place where were our

ships and people. The Governor ordered that the brigantine should

sail along the coast of Florida and search for the harbor that

Miruelo, the pilot, said he knew (though as yet he had failed to find

it, and could not tell in what place we were, or where was the port),

and that if it were not found, she should steer for Havana and seek

the ship of which Alvaro de la Cerda was in command,[28] and, taking

provisions, together, they should come to look for us.

[26] Really northeast.

[27] The western arm of Tampa Bay, known as Old Tampa Bay.

[28] With forty men and a dozen horses.

After the brigantine left, the same party, with some persons more,

returned to enter the land. We kept along the shores of the bay we

had found, and, having gone four leagues, we captured four Indians.

We showed them maize, to see if they had knowledge of it, for up to

that time we had seen no indication of any. They said they could take

us where there was some; so they brought us to their town near by,

at the head of the bay, and showed us a little corn not yet fit for

gathering.

There we saw many cases, such as are used to contain the merchandise

of Castile, in each of them a dead man, and the bodies were covered

with painted deer-skins. This appeared to the commissary to be a kind

of idolatry, and he burned the cases with the bodies. We also found

pieces of linen and of woollen cloth, and bunches of feathers which

appeared like those of New Spain.[29] There were likewise traces of

gold. Having by signs asked the Indians whence these things came,

they motioned to us that very far from there, was a province called

Apalachen,[30] where was much gold, and so the same abundance in

Palachen[31] of everything that we at all cared for.

[29] In the letter addressed by the survivors to the Audiencia

of Santo Domingo (Oviedo, _Historia General y Natural de las

Indias_, III., cap. i. 583, Madrid, 1853), it is stated that when

the natives were asked whence came these intrusive articles,

which included also some pieces of shoes, canvas, broadcloth,

and iron, they replied by signs that they had taken them from a

vessel that had been wrecked in the bay. Compare also cap. VII.

615. It has been suggested that possibly the objects may have

come from the vessel which Lucas Vazquez de Ayllon lost in 1526,

but as this wreck occurred at the mouth of Cape Fear River, on

the southern coast of North Carolina, it does not seem likely

that they could have been derived from this source. That natives

of the West Indies had intercourse by canoe with Florida, and

that an Arawakan colony was early established on the southwest

coast of the peninsula, is now well established.

[30] The Apalachee were one of the Muskhogean tribes that

occupied northwestern Florida from the vicinity of Pensacola

eastward to Ocilla River, their chief seats being in the

vicinity of Tallahassee and St. Marks. In 1655 they numbered six

or eight thousand, but about the beginning of the eighteenth

century they were warred against by the Creeks, instigated by

the English of Carolina, and in 1703 and 1704 expeditions by

English troops, reinforced by Creek warriors, resulted in the

capture and enslavement of about fourteen hundred Apalachee

and in practically exterminating the remainder. The town of

Apalachicola, on the Savannah River, was inhabited by Apalachee

refugees colonized later by the Carolina government, but these

were finally merged with the Creeks. Appalachee Bay and the

Appalachian Mountains derive their names from this tribe.

[31] "Apalachen," as above, in the edition of 1542 (Bandelier

translation).

Taking these Indians for guides, we departed, and travelling ten or

twelve leagues[32] we came to a town of fifteen houses. Here a large

piece of ground was cultivated in maize then ripe, and we likewise

found some already dry. After staying there two days, we returned to

where the comptroller tarried with the men and ships, and related to

him and the pilots what we had seen, and the information the natives

had given.

[32] The Spanish league varied greatly, but in these early

narratives the judicial league, equivalent to 2.634 English

miles, is usually meant. Distances, however, while sometimes

paced, were generally loose guesses, as is often shown by the

great disparity in the figures given by two or more chroniclers

of the same journey.

The next day, the first of May, the Governor called aside the

commissary, the comptroller, the assessor, myself, a sailor named

Bartolomé Fernandez, and a notary, Hieronymo Alaniz.[33] Being

together he said that he desired to penetrate the interior, and that

the ships ought to go along the coast until they should come to the

port which the pilots believed was very near on the way to the River

Palmas. He asked us for our views.

[33] "Jerónimo de Albaniz" in the edition of 1542 (Bandelier

translation).

I said it appeared to me that under no circumstances ought we to

leave the vessels until they were in a secure and peopled harbor;

that he should observe the pilots were not confident, and did not

agree in any particular, neither did they know where we were; that,

more than this, the horses were in no condition to serve us in such

exigencies as might occur. Above all, that we were going without

being able to communicate with the Indians by use of speech and

without an interpreter, and we could but poorly understand ourselves

with them, or learn what we desired to know of the land; that we

were about entering a country of which we had no account, and had

no knowledge of its character, of what there was in it, or by what

people inhabited, neither did we know in what part of it we were; and

beside all this, we had not food to sustain us in wandering we knew

not whither; that with regard to the stores in the ships, rations

could not be given to each man for such a journey, more than a pound

of biscuit and another of bacon; that my opinion was, we should

embark and seek a harbor and a soil better than this to occupy, since

what we had seen of it was desert and poor, such as had never before

been discovered in those parts.

To the commissary[34] every thing appeared otherwise. He thought we

ought not to embark; but that, always keeping the coast, we should

go in search of the harbor, which the pilots stated was only ten or

fifteen leagues from there, on the way to Pánuco; and that it was not

possible, marching ever by the shore, we should fail to come upon

it, because they said it stretched up into the land a dozen leagues;

that whichever might first find it should wait for the other; that

to embark would be to brave the Almighty after so many adversities

encountered since leaving Spain, so many storms, and so great losses

of men and ships sustained before reaching there; that for these

reasons we should march along the coast until we reached the harbor,

and those in the ships should take a like direction until they

arrived at the same place.

[34] Fray Juan Xuarez.

This plan seemed the best to adopt, to the rest who were present,

except the notary, who said that when the ships should be abandoned

they ought to be in a known, safe haven, a place with inhabitants;

that this done the Governor might advance inland and do what might

seem to him proper.

The Governor followed his own judgment and the counsel of others.

Seeing his determination, I required him in behalf of your Majesty,

not to quit the ships before putting them in port and making them

secure; and accordingly I asked a certificate of this under the hand

of the notary. The Governor responded that he did but abide by the

judgment of the commissary, and of the majority of the officers, and

that I had no right to make these requirements of him. He then asked

the notary to give him a certificate, that inasmuch as there was no

subsistence in that country for the maintenance of a colony, nor

haven for the ships, he broke up the settlement he had placed there,

taking its inhabitants in quest of a port and land that should be

better. He then ordered the people who were to go with him to be

mustered, that they might be victualled with what was needed for the

journey. After they had been provided for, he said to me, in the

hearing of those present, that since I so much discouraged and feared

entering the land, I should sail in charge of the ships and people in

them, and form a settlement, should I arrive at the port before him;

but from this proposal I excused myself.

After we had separated, the same evening, having said that it did

not appear to him that he could entrust the command to any one else,

he sent to me to say that he begged I would take it; but finding,

notwithstanding he so greatly importuned me, that I still refused,

he asked me the cause of my reluctance. I answered that I rejected

the responsibility, as I felt certain and knew that he was never more

to find the ships, nor the ships him, which might be foreseen in the

slender outfit we had for entering the country; that I desired rather

to expose myself to the danger which he and the others adventured,

and to pass with them what he and they might go through, than to

take charge of the ships and give occasion for it to be said I had

opposed the invasion and remained behind from timidity, and thus my

courage be called in question. I chose rather to risk my life than

put my honor in such position. Seeing that what he said to me availed

nothing, he begged many persons to reason with me on the subject

and entreat me. I answered them in the same way I had him; so he

appointed for his lieutenant of the ships an alcalde he had brought

with him, whose name was Caravallo.

Chapter 5

_The Governor leaves the ships._

On Saturday,[35] first of May, the date of this occurrence, the

Governor ordered to each man going with him, two pounds of biscuit

and half a pound of bacon; and thus victualled we took up our march

into the country. The whole number of men was three hundred:[36]

among them went the commissary, Friar Juan Xuarez, and another

friar, Juan de Palos, three clergymen and the officers. We of the

mounted men consisted of forty. We travelled on the allowance we had

received fifteen days, without finding any other thing to eat than

palmitos,[37] which are like those of Andalusia. In all that time

we saw not an Indian, and found neither village nor house. Finally

we came to a river,[38] which we passed with great difficulty, by

swimming and on rafts. It detained us a day to cross because of the

very strong current. Arrived on the other side, there appeared as

many as two hundred natives, more or less. The Governor met them,

and conversing by signs, they so insulted us with their gestures,

that we were forced to break with them.[39] We seized upon five or

six, and they took us to their houses half a league off. Near by we

found a large quantity of maize in a fit state to be gathered. We

gave infinite thanks to our Lord for having succored us in this great

extremity, for we were yet young in trials, and besides the weariness

in which we came, we were exhausted from hunger.

[35] Buckingham Smith has "Sunday," translating _Sábado_

("Sabbath") literally; the Christian Sabbath is the Spanish

_Domingo_.

[36] The Letter (Oviedo, 584) says two hundred and sixty men

afoot and forty horsemen. References to the Letter to the

Audiencia of Santo Domingo will henceforth be cited simply as

Oviedo, in whose work it appears (see the Introduction).

[37] Buckingham Smith says: "This is the dwarf fan-palm, not

the cabbage-palm, to which we often inadvertently apply the

diminutive termination _ito_, mispelled _etto_." Smith lived in

Florida for many years.

[38] Evidently the Withlacoochee, which enters the Gulf at

latitude 29°.

[39] The Spaniards were still among the Timucuan tribes.

On the third day after our arrival, the comptroller, the assessor,

the commissary and I met, and together besought the Governor to

send to look for the sea, that if possible we might find a port,

as the Indians stated there was one not a very great way off. He

said that we should cease to speak of the sea, for it was remote;

but as I chiefly importuned him, he told me to go and look for it,

and seek a harbor, to take forty men and to travel on foot. So the

next day[40] I left with Captain Alonzo del Castello[41] and forty

men of his company. We marched until noon, when we arrived at some

sea sands that appeared to lie a good ways inland. Along this sand

we walked for a league and a half,[42] with the water half way up

the leg, treading on oysters, which cut our feet badly and made us

much trouble, until we reached the river[43] we had before crossed,

emptying into this bay. As we could not cross it by reason of our

slim outfit for such purpose, we returned to camp and reported what

we had discovered. To find out if there was a port and examine the

outlet well, it was necessary to repass the river at the place where

we had first gone over; so the next day the Governor ordered a

captain, Valençuela by name, with sixty men[44] and six cavalry, to

cross, and following the river down to the sea, ascertain if there

was a harbor. He returned after an absence of two days, and said he

had explored the bay, that it was not deeper any where than to the

knee, and that he found no harbor. He had seen five or six canoes of

Indians passing from one shore to the other, wearing many plumes.

[40] May 18, 1528.

[41] Castillo.

[42] Two leagues, according to Oviedo, _op. cit._, 585.

[43] The Withlacoochee.

[44] Forty men according to Oviedo, 585.

With this information, we left the next day, going ever in quest

of Apalache, the country of which the Indians told us, having for

our guides those we had taken. We travelled without seeing any

natives who would venture to await our coming up with them until the

seventeenth day of June, when a chief approached, borne on the back

of another Indian, and covered with a painted deer-skin. A great many

people attended him, some walking in advance, playing on flutes of

reed.[45] In this manner he came to where the Governor stood, and

spent an hour with him. By signs we gave him to understand that we

were going to Apalachen, and it appeared to us by those he made that

he was an enemy to the people of Apalachen, and would go to assist us

against them. We gave him beads and hawk-bells, with other articles

of barter; and he having presented the Governor with the skin he

wore, went back, when we followed in the road he took.

[45] When Hernando de Soto passed through this country eleven

years later he also was met by Indians playing flutes.

That night we came to a wide and deep river with a very rapid

current.[46] As we would not venture to cross on rafts, we made a

canoe for the purpose, and spent a day in getting over. Had the

Indians desired to oppose us, they could well have disputed our

passage; for even with their help we had great difficulty in making

it. One of the mounted men, Juan Velazquez by name, a native of

Cuellar, impatient of detention, entered the river, when the violence

of the current casting him from his horse, he grasped the reins of

the bridle, and both were drowned. The people of that chief, whose

name was Dulchanchellin, found the body of the beast; and having told

us about where in the stream below we should find the corpse, it was

sought for. This death caused us much regret, for until now not a man

had been lost. The horse afforded supper to many that night.

[46] The Suwannee.

Leaving that spot, the next day we arrived at the town of the chief,

where he sent us maize. During the night one of our men was shot at

in a place where we got water, but it pleased God that he should not

be hit. The next day we departed, not one of the natives making his

appearance, as all had fled. While going on our way a number came in

sight, prepared for battle; and though we called to them, they would

not return nor await our arrival, but retired following us on the

road. The Governor left some cavalry in ambush, which sallying as the

natives were about to pass, seized three or four, who thenceforth

served as guides. They conducted us through a country very difficult

to travel and wonderful to look upon. In it are vast forests, the

trees being astonishingly high. So many were fallen on the ground

as to obstruct our way in such a manner that we could not advance

without much going about and a considerable increase of toil. Many

of the standing trees were riven from top to bottom by bolts of

lightning which fall in that country of frequent storms and tempests.

We labored on through these impediments until the day after

Saint John's,[47] when we came in view of Apalachen, without the

inhabitants being aware of our approach. We gave many thanks to God,

at seeing ourselves so near, believing true what had been told us

of the land, and that there would be an end to our great hardships,

caused as much by the length and badness of the way as by our

excessive hunger; for although we sometimes found maize, we oftener

travelled seven and eight leagues without seeing any; and besides

this and the great fatigue, many had galled shoulders from carrying

armor on the back; and even more than these we endured. Yet, having

come to the place desired, and where we had been informed were much

food and gold, it appeared to us that we had already recovered in

part from our sufferings and fatigue.

[47] Saint John the Baptist's Day, June 24. They had been

travelling through the jungle for four or five days.

Chapter 6

_Our arrival at Apalache._

When we came in view of Apalachen, the Governor ordered that I should

take nine cavalry with fifty infantry and enter the town. Accordingly

the assessor[48] and I assailed it; and having got in, we found only

women and boys there, the men being absent; however these returned

to its support, after a little time, while we were walking about,

and began discharging arrows at us. They killed the horse of the

assessor, and at last taking to flight, they left us.

[48] The assessor, or inspector, it will be recalled, was Alonzo

de Solis.

We found a large quantity of maize fit for plucking, and much dry

that was housed; also many deer-skins, and among them some mantelets

of thread, small and poor, with which the women partially cover their

persons. There were numerous mortars for cracking maize. The town

consisted of forty small houses, made low, and set up in sheltered

places because of the frequent storms. The material was thatch. They

were surrounded by very dense woods, large groves and many bodies

of fresh water, in which so many and so large trees are fallen, that

they form obstructions rendering travel difficult and dangerous.

Chapter 7

_The character of the country._

The country where we came on shore to this town and region of

Apalachen is for the most part level, the ground of sand and stiff

earth. Throughout are immense trees and open woods, in which are

walnut, laurel, and another tree called liquid-amber,[49] cedars,

savins, evergreen oaks, pines, red-oaks, and palmitos like those of

Spain. There are many lakes, great and small, over every part of it;

some troublesome of fording, on account of depth and the great number

of trees lying throughout them. Their beds are sand. The lakes in

the country of Apalachen are much larger than those we found before

coming there.[50]

[49] The sweet-gum, copalm, or alligator tree (_Liquidambar

styraciflua_).

[50] Seemingly the lake country in the northern part of Leon and

Jefferson counties, Florida. "Apalachen" town was perhaps on

Miccosukee Lake.

In this province are many maize fields; and the houses are scattered

as are those of the Gelves. There are deer of three kinds, rabbits,

hares, bears, lions, and other wild beasts. Among them we saw an

animal with a pocket on its belly,[51] in which it carries its

young until they know how to seek food, and if it happen that they

should be out feeding and any one come near, the mother will not

run until she has gathered them in together. The country is very

cold.[52] It has fine pastures for herds. Birds are of various kinds.

Geese in great numbers. Ducks, mallards, royal-ducks, fly-catchers,

night-herons and partridges abound. We saw many falcons, gerfalcons,

sparrow-hawks, merlins, and numerous other fowl.[53]

[51] The opossum. This is probably the first allusion to this

animal. The name is derived from the Algonquian language of

Virginia, having first been recorded by Captain John Smith.

[52] As it was now late in June, this is not explicable, unless

the season was an unusual one.

[53] Buckingham Smith thinks it strange that the turkey and the

alligator are not particularly mentioned among the fauna of the

region.

Two hours after our arrival at Apalachen, the Indians who had fled

from there came in peace to us, asking for their women and children,

whom we released; but the detention of a cacique by the Governor

produced great excitement, in consequence of which they returned for

battle early the next day, and attacked us with such promptness and

alacrity that they succeeded in setting fire to the houses in which

we were. As we sallied they fled to the lakes near by, because of

which and the large maize fields we could do them no injury, save in

the single instance of one Indian, whom we killed. The day following,

others came against us from a town on the opposite side of the lake,

and attacked us as the first had done, escaping in the same way,

except one who was also slain.

We were in the town twenty-five days, in which time we made three

incursions, and found the country very thinly peopled and difficult

to travel for the bad passages, the woods and lakes. We inquired of

the cacique we kept and the natives we brought with us, who were

the neighbors and enemies of these Indians, as to the nature of the

country, the character and condition of the inhabitants, of the

food and all other matters concerning it. Each answered apart from

the rest, that the largest town in all that region was Apalachen;

the people beyond were less numerous and poorer, the land little

occupied, and the inhabitants much scattered; that thenceforward

were great lakes, dense forests, immense deserts and solitudes. We

then asked touching the region towards the south, as to the towns

and subsistence in it. They said that in keeping such a direction,

journeying nine days, there was a town called Aute,[54] the

inhabitants whereof had much maize, beans, and pumpkins, and being

near the sea they had fish, and that those people were their friends.

[54] Most authorities agree that this place was at or near the

site of St. Marks, south-southeast of Tallahassee, although the

distance seems too short for nine days' travel, as will be seen.

In view of the poverty of the land, the unfavorable accounts of

the population and of everything else we heard, the Indians making

continual war upon us, wounding our people and horses at the places

where they went to drink, shooting from the lakes with such safety to

themselves that we could not retaliate, killing a lord of Tescuco,

named Don Pedro,[55] whom the commissary brought with him, we

determined to leave that place and go in quest of the sea, and the

town of Aute of which we were told.

[55] See Buckingham Smith, _Relation of Alvar Nuñez Cabeça de

Vaca_, 1871, p. 42, note 7, regarding this Aztec prince of the

blood.

At the termination of the twenty-five days[56] after our arrival

we departed,[57] and on the first day got through those lakes and

passages without seeing any one, and on the second day we came to a

lake difficult of crossing, the water reaching to the paps, and in it

were numerous logs. On reaching the middle of it we were attacked by

many Indians from behind trees, who thus covered themselves that we

might not get sight of them, and others were on the fallen timbers.

They drove their arrows with such effect that they wounded many men

and horses, and before we got through the lake they took our guide.

They now followed, endeavoring to contest the passage; but our coming

out afforded no relief, nor gave us any better position; for when

we wished to fight them they retired immediately into the lake,

whence they continued to wound our men and beasts. The Governor,

seeing this, commanded the cavalry to dismount and charge the Indians

on foot. Accordingly the comptroller[58] alighting with the rest,

attacked them, when they all turned and ran into the lake at hand,

and thus the passage was gained.

[56] "Twenty-six days." Oviedo, 586. The edition of 1542

(Bandelier trans., p. 30) says: "And so we left, arriving there

five days after. The first day we travelled across lagunes and

trails without seeing a single Indian."

[57] July 19-20, 1528.

[58] Alonzo Enrriquez.

Some of our men were wounded in this conflict, for whom the good

armor they wore did not avail. There were those this day who swore

that they had seen two red oaks, each the thickness of the lower part

of the leg, pierced through from side to side by arrows; and this is

not so much to be wondered at, considering the power and skill with

which the Indians are able to project them. I myself saw an arrow

that had entered the butt of an elm to the depth of a span.

The Indians we had so far seen in Florida are all archers. They go

naked, are large of body, and appear at a distance like giants. They

are of admirable proportions, very spare and of great activity and

strength. The bows they use are as thick as the arm, of eleven or

twelve palms in length, which they will discharge at two hundred

paces with so great precision that they miss nothing.

Having got through this passage, at the end of a league we arrived

at another of the same character, but worse, as it was longer, being

half a league in extent. This we crossed freely, without interruption

from the Indians, who, as they had spent on the former occasion their

store of arrows, had nought with which they dared venture to engage

us. Going through a similar passage the next day, I discovered the

trail of persons ahead, of which I gave notice to the Governor, who

was in the rear-guard, so that though the Indians came upon us, as

we were prepared they did no harm. After emerging upon the plain

they followed us, and we went back on them in two directions. Two we

killed, and they wounded me and two or three others. Coming to woods

we could do them no more injury, nor make them further trouble.

In this manner we travelled eight days. After that occurrence we were

not again beset until within a league of the place to which I have

said we were going. There, while on our way, the Indians came about

us without our suspicion, and fell upon the rear-guard. A hidalgo,

named Avellaneda, hearing the cries of his serving boy, went back

to give assistance, when he was struck by an arrow near the edge of

his cuirass; and so severe was the wound, the shaft having passed

almost entirely through his neck, that he presently died. The corpse

was carried to Aute, where we arrived at the end of nine days'[59]

travel from Apalache. We found all the inhabitants gone and the

houses burned. Maize, beans, and pumpkins were in great plenty,

all beginning to be fit for gathering. Having rested two days, the

Governor begged me to go and look for the sea, as the Indians said

it was near; and we had before discovered it, while on the way, from

a very large stream, to which we had given the name of River of the

Magdalena.[60]

[59] "Eight or nine days." Oviedo, 587.

[60] St. Marks River, which flows into St. Marks Bay, at the head

of which Aute was situated.

Accordingly, I set out the next day after, in company with the

commissary, Captain Castillo, Andrés Dorantes, seven more on

horseback, and fifty on foot. We travelled until the hour of vespers,

when we arrived at a road or entrance of the sea. Oysters were

abundant, over which the men rejoiced, and we gave thanks to God that

he had brought us there. The following morning[61] I sent twenty men

to explore the coast and ascertain its direction. They returned the

night after, reporting that those creeks and bays were large, and lay

so far inland as made it difficult to examine them agreeably to our

desires, and that the sea shore was very distant.

These tidings obtained, seeing our slender means, and condition for

exploring the coast, I went back to the Governor. On our arrival we

found him and many others sick. The Indians had assaulted them the

night before, and because of the malady that had come upon them, they

had been pushed to extremity. One of the horses had been killed. I

gave a report of what I had done, and of the embarrassing nature of

the country. We remained there that day.

[61] August 1, 1528.

Chapter 8

_We go from Aute._

The next morning[62] we left Aute, and travelled all day before

coming to the place I had visited. The journey was extremely

arduous. There were not horses enough to carry the sick, who went on

increasing in numbers day by day, and we knew of no cure. It was

piteous and painful to witness our perplexity and distress. We saw

on our arrival how small were the means for advancing farther. There

was not anywhere to go; and if there had been, the people were unable

to move forward, the greater part being ill, and those were few who

could be on duty. I cease here to relate more of this, because any

one may suppose what would occur in a country so remote and malign,

so destitute of all resource, whereby either to live in it or go out

of it; but most certain assistance is in God, our Lord, on whom we

never failed to place reliance. One thing occurred, more afflicting

to us than all the rest, which was, that of the persons mounted, the

greater part commenced secretly to plot, hoping to secure a better

fate for themselves by abandoning the Governor and the sick, who were

in a state of weakness and prostration. But, as among them were many

hidalgos and persons of gentle condition, they would not permit this

to go on, without informing the Governor and the officers of your

Majesty; and as we showed them the deformity of their purpose, and

placed before them the moment when they should desert their captain,

and those who were ill and feeble, and above all the disobedience

to the orders of your Majesty, they determined to remain, and that

whatever might happen to one should be the lot of all, without any

forsaking the rest.

[62] August 3, 1528.

After the accomplishment of this, the Governor called them all to

him, and of each apart he asked advice as to what he should do to get

out of a country so miserable, and seek that assistance elsewhere

which could not here be found, a third part of the people being

very sick, and the number increasing every hour; for we regarded it

as certain that we should all become so, and could pass out of it

only through death, which from its coming in such a place was to us

all the more terrible. These, with many other embarrassments being

considered, and entertaining many plans, we coincided in one great

project extremely difficult to put in operation, and that was to

build vessels in which we might go away. This appeared impossible to

every one; we knew not how to construct, nor were there tools, nor

iron, nor forge, nor tow, nor resin, nor rigging; finally, no one

thing of so many that are necessary, nor any man who had a knowledge

of their manufacture; and, above all, there was nothing to eat,

while building, for those who should labor. Reflecting on all this,

we agreed to think of the subject with more deliberation, and the

conversation dropped from that day, each going his way, commending

our course to God, our Lord, that he would direct it as should best

serve Him.

The next day it was His will that one of the company should come

saying that he could make some pipes out of wood, which with

deer-skins might be made into bellows; and, as we lived in a time

when anything that had the semblance of relief appeared well, we

told him to set himself to work. We assented to the making of nails,

saws, axes, and other tools of which there was such need, from the

stirrups, spurs, crossbows, and the other things of iron there were;

and we laid out for support, while the work was going on, that we

would make four entries into Aute, with all the horses and men that

were able to go, and that on every third day a horse should be killed

to be divided among those who labored in the work of the boats and

the sick. The incursions were made with the people and horses that

were available, and in them were brought back as many as four hundred

fanegas[63] of maize; but these were not got without quarrels and

contentions with the Indians. We caused many palmitos to be collected

for the woof or covering, twisting and preparing it for use in the

place of tow for the boats.

[63] About six hundred and forty bushels.

We commenced to build on the fourth, with the only carpenter in

the company, and we proceeded with so great diligence that on the

twentieth day of September five boats were finished, twenty-two

cubits in length, each caulked with the fibre of the palmito. We

pitched them with a certain resin, made from pine trees by a Greek,

named Don Theodoro; from the same husk of the palmito, and from

the tails and manes of the horses we made ropes and rigging, from

our shirts, sails, and from the savins growing there we made the

oars that appeared to us requisite. Such was the country into which

our sins had cast us, that only by very great search could we find

stone for ballast and anchors, since in it all we had not seen one.

We flayed the horses, taking the skin from their legs entire, and

tanning them to make bottles wherein to carry water.

During this time some went gathering shell-fish in the coves and

creeks of the sea, at which employment the Indians twice attacked

them and killed ten men in sight of the camp, without our being able

to afford succor. We found their corpses traversed from side to side

with arrows; and for all some had on good armor, it did not give

adequate protection or security against the nice and powerful archery

of which I have spoken. According to the declaration of our pilots

under oath, from the entrance to which we had given the name Bahía de

la Cruz[64] to this place, we had travelled two hundred and eighty

leagues[65] or thereabout. Over all that region we had not seen a

single mountain, and had no information of any whatsoever.

[64] Tampa Bay.

[65] In reality they could not have travelled much more than as

many miles in a straight line from Tampa Bay.

Before we embarked there died more than forty men of disease and

hunger, without enumerating those destroyed by the Indians. By

the twenty-second of the month of September, the horses had been

consumed, one only remaining; and on that day we embarked in the

following order: In the boat of the Governor went forty-nine men; in

another, which he gave to the comptroller and the commissary, went

as many others; the third, he gave to Captain Alonzo del Castillo

and Andrés Dorantes, with forty-eight men; and another he gave to

two captains, Tellez and Peñalosa, with forty-seven men. The last

was given to the assessor and myself, with forty-nine men. After the

provisions and clothes had been taken in, not over a span of the

gunwales remained above water; and more than this, the boats were so

crowded that we could not move: so much can necessity do, which drove

us to hazard our lives in this manner, running into a turbulent sea,

not a single one who went having a knowledge of navigation.[66]

[66] Consult Garcilasso de la Vega, _La Florida_, 78, 1723, for

the finding of the relics of Narvaez by De Soto's expedition in

1539, and see the De Soto narration of the Gentleman of Elvas,

later in the present volume.

Chapter 9

_We leave the Bay of Horses._

The haven we left bears the name of Bahía de Caballos.[67] We passed

waist deep in water through sounds without seeing any sign of the

coast, and at the close of the seventh day, we came to an island

near the main. My boat went first, and from her we saw Indians

approaching in five canoes, which they abandoned and left in our

hands, finding that we were coming after them. The other boats passed

ahead, and stopped at some houses on the island, where we found many

dried mullet and roes, which were a great relief in our distress.

After taking these we went on, and two leagues thence, we discovered

a strait the island makes with the land,[68] which we named Sant

Miguel, for having passed through it on his day.[69] Coming out we

went to the coast, where with the canoes I had taken, we somewhat

improved the boats, making waist-boards and securing them, so that

the sides rose two palms above the water. This done we returned to

move along the coast in the direction of the River Palmas,[70] our

hunger and thirst continually increasing; for our scant subsistence

was getting near the end, the water was out, and the bottles made

from the legs of the horses having soon rotted, were useless.

Sometimes we entered coves and creeks that lay far in, and found them

all shallow and dangerous. Thus we journeyed along them thirty days,

finding occasionally Indian fishermen, a poor and miserable lot.

[67] "Bay of Horses": St. Marks Bay of Appalachee Bay.

[68] The conditions are applicable to the mouth of St. Marks Bay,

the two small islands, and the strait between them and the coast.

[69] St. Michael's Day, September 29, 1528.

[70] That is, in a southwesterly direction.

At the end of this time, while the want of water was great, going

near the coast at night we heard the approach of a canoe, for which,

so soon as it was in sight, we paused; but it would not meet us,

and, although we called, it would neither come nor wait for us. As

the night was dark, we did not follow, and kept on our way. When the

sun rose we saw a small island, and went to it to find water; but

our labor was vain, as it had none. Lying there at anchor, a heavy

storm came on, that detained us six days, we not daring to go to sea;

and as it was now five days since we had drunk, our thirst was so

excessive that it put us to the extremity of swallowing salt water,

by which some of the men became so crazed that three or four suddenly

died. I state this so briefly, because I do not believe there is any

necessity for particularly relating the sufferings and toils amidst

which we found ourselves; since, considering the place where we were,

and the little hope we had of relief, every one may conceive much of

what must have passed.

Although the storm had not ceased, as our thirst increased and

the water killed us, we resolved to commend ourselves to God our

Lord, and adventure the peril of the sea rather than await the end

which thirst made certain. Accordingly we went out by the way we

had observed the canoe go the night we came. On this day we were

ourselves many times overwhelmed by the waves, and in such jeopardy

that there was not one who did not suppose his death inevitable.

Thanks be to Him, that in the greatest dangers, He was wont to show

us his favor; for at sunset doubling a point made by the land, we

found shelter with much calm.[71]

[71] Pensacola Bay. The Indians were Choctaws or a closely

related tribe.

Many canoes came off with Indians who spoke with us and returned,

not being disposed to await our arrival. They were of large stature

and well formed: they had no bows and arrows. We followed them to

their houses near by, at the edge of the water, and jumped on shore.

Before their dwellings were many clay pitchers with water, and a

large quantity of cooked fish, which the chief of these territories

offered to the Governor and then took him to his house. Their

dwellings were made of mats, and so far as we observed, were not

movable. On entering the house the cacique gave us fish, and we gave

him of the maize we brought, which the people ate in our presence.

They asked for more and received it, and the Governor presented the

cacique with many trinkets. While in the house with him, at the

middle hour of night, the Indians fell suddenly upon us, and on those

who were very sick, scattered along the shore.[72] They also beset

the house in which the Governor was, and with a stone struck him

in the face. Those of our comrades present seized the cacique; but

his people being near liberated him, leaving in our hands a robe of

civet-marten.

[72] "Killing three men." Oviedo, p. 589.

These skins are the best, I think, that can be found; they have a

fragrance that can be equalled by amber and musk alone, and even at a

distance is strongly perceptible. We saw there other skins, but none

comparable to these.

Those of us around, finding the Governor wounded, put him into

his boat; and we caused others of our people to betake themselves

likewise to their boats, some fifty remaining to withstand the

natives. They attacked us thrice that night, and with so great

impetuosity, that on each occasion they made us retire more than a

stone's cast. Not one among us escaped injury: I was wounded in the

face. They had not many arrows, but had they been further provided,

doubtless they would have done us much harm. In the last onset, the

Captains Dorantes, Peñalosa, and Tellez put themselves in ambuscade

with fifteen men, and fell upon the rear in such manner that the

Indians desisted and fled.

The next morning[73] I broke up more than thirty canoes, which were

serviceable for fuel in a north wind in which we were kept all day

suffering severe cold, without daring to go to sea, because of the

rough weather upon it. This having subsided, we again embarked,

and navigated three days.[74] As we brought little water and the

vessels were few, we were reduced to the last extremity. Following

our course, we entered an estuary, and being there we saw Indians

approaching in a canoe. We called to them and they came. The

Governor, at whose boat they first arrived, asked for water, which

they assented to give, asking for something in which they might bring

it, when Dorotheo Theodoro, a Greek spoken of before, said that he

wished to go with them. The Governor tried to dissuade him, and so

did others, but were unable; he was determined to go whatever might

betide. Accordingly he went, taking with him a negro, the natives

leaving two of their number as hostages. At night the Indians

returned with the vessels empty and without the Christians; and when

those we held were spoken to by them, they tried to plunge into the

sea. Being detained by the men, the Indians in the canoe thereupon

fled, leaving us sorrowful and much dejected for our loss.[75]

[73] October 28, 1528.

[74] "Three or four days." Oviedo, p. 589.

[75] Biedma's Narrative (_Publications of the Hakluyt Society_,

IX. 1-83, 1851) says of the De Soto expedition in 1539: "Having

set out for this village [Mavila, Mauvila, Mobile], we found a

large river which we supposed to be that which falls into the

bay of Chuse [Pensacola Bay]; we learned that the vessels of

Narvaez had arrived there in want of water, and that a Christian

named Teodoro and an Indian had remained among these Indians: at

the same time they showed us a dagger which had belonged to the

Christian."

Chapter 10

_The assault from the Indians._

The morning having come, many natives arrived in canoes who

asked us for the two that had remained in the boat. The Governor

replied that he would give up the hostages when they should

bring the Christians they had taken. With the Indians had come

five or six chiefs,[76] who appeared to us to be the most comely

persons, and of more authority and condition than any we had

hitherto seen, although not so large as some others of whom we

have spoken. They wore the hair loose and very long, and were

covered with robes of marten such as we had before taken. Some

of the robes were made up after a strange fashion, with wrought

ties of lion skin, making a brave show. They entreated us to go

with them, and said they would give us the Christians, water, and

many other things. They continued to collect about us in canoes,

attempting in them to take possession of the mouth of that

entrance; in consequence, and because it was hazardous to stay

near the land, we went to sea, where they remained by us until

about mid-day. As they would not deliver our people, we would not

give up theirs; so they began to hurl clubs at us and to throw

stones with slings, making threats of shooting arrows, although

we had not seen among them all more than three or four bows.

While thus engaged, the wind beginning to freshen, they left us

and went back.

[76] "Three or four," according to the Letter (Oviedo, p. 589),

which also gives the number of canoes as twenty.

We sailed that day until the middle of the afternoon, when my boat,

which was the first, discovered a point made by the land, and against

a cape opposite, passed a broad river.[77] I cast anchor near a

little island forming the point, to await the arrival of the other

boats. The Governor did not choose to come up, and entered a bay near

by in which were a great many islets. We came together there, and

took fresh water from the sea, the stream entering it in freshet.[78]

To parch some of the maize we brought with us, since we had eaten

it raw for two days, we went on an island; but finding no wood we

agreed to go to the river beyond the point, one league off. By no

effort could we get there, so violent was the current on the way,

which drove us out, while we contended and strove to gain the land.

The north wind, which came from the shore, began to blow so strongly

that it forced us to sea without our being able to overcome it. We

sounded half a league out, and found with thirty fathoms[79] we could

not get bottom; but we were unable to satisfy ourselves that the

current was not the cause of failure. Toiling in this manner to fetch

the land, we navigated three days, and at the end of this time, a

little before the sun rose, we saw smoke in several places along the

shore. Attempting to reach them, we found ourselves in three fathoms

of water, and in the darkness we dared not come to land; for as we

had seen so many smokes, some surprise might lie in wait, and the

obscurity leave us at a loss how to act. We determined therefore to

stop until morning.

[77] According to the Letter they travelled two days more before

reaching this point of land.

[78] The Mississippi, the waters of which were now seen by white

men fourteen years before the "discovery" of the stream by De

Soto.

[79] The present normal depth at this distance from the delta is

about sixty feet.

When day came, the boats had lost sight of each other. I found myself

in thirty fathoms. Keeping my course until the hour of vespers,

I observed two boats, and drawing near I found that the first I

approached was that of the Governor. He asked me what I thought

we should do. I told him we ought to join the boat which went in

advance, and by no means to leave her; and, the three being together,

we must keep on our way to where God should be pleased to lead. He

answered saying that could not be done, because the boat was far to

sea and he wished to reach the shore; that if I wished to follow him,

I should order the persons of my boat to take the oars and work, as

it was only by strength of arm that the land could be gained. He

was advised to this course by a captain with him named Pantoja, who

said that if he did not fetch land that day, in six days more they

would not reach it, and in that time they must inevitably famish.

Discovering his will I took my oar, and so did every one his, in my

boat, to obey it. We rowed until near sunset; but the Governor having

in his boat the healthiest of all the men, we could not by any means

hold with or follow her. Seeing this, I asked him to give me a rope

from his boat, that I might be enabled to keep up with him; but he

answered me that he would do much, if they, as they were, should be

able to reach the land that night. I said to him, that since he saw

the feeble strength we had to follow him, and do what he ordered,

he must tell me how he would that I should act. He answered that it

was no longer a time in which one should command another; but that

each should do what he thought best to save his own life; that he so

intended to act; and saying this, he departed with his boat.[80]

[80] The selfishness and incompetence of Narvaez, shown

throughout the narration, are here further exemplified. His

life had more than once been spared through the self-sacrifice

of his men, yet he now thought more of saving himself, with the

aid of his hardy crew, than of lending a hand to his weakened

companions.

As I could not follow him, I steered to the other boat at sea,

which waited for me, and having come up, I found her to be the one

commanded by the Captains Peñalosa and Tellez.

Thus we continued in company, eating a daily allowance of half a

handful of raw maize, until the end of four days, when we lost

sight of each other in a storm; and such was the weather that only

by God's favor we did not all go down. Because of winter and its

inclemency, the many days we had suffered hunger, and the heavy

beating of the waves, the people began next day to despair in such a

manner that when the sun sank, all who were in my boat were fallen

one on another, so near to death that there were few among them in a

state of sensibility. Of the whole number at this time not five men

were on their feet; and when night came, only the master and myself

were left, who could work the boat. Two hours after dark, he said

to me that I must take charge of her as he was in such condition he

believed he should die that night. So I took the paddle, and going

after midnight to see if the master was alive he said to me he was

rather better, and would take the charge until day. I declare in that

hour I would more willingly have died than seen so many people before

me in such condition. After the master took the direction of the

boat, I lay down a little while; but without repose, for nothing at

that time was farther from me than sleep.

Near the dawn of day, it seemed to me I heard the tumbling of the

sea; for as the coast was low, it roared loudly. Surprised at this,

I called to the master, who answered me that he believed we were

near the land. We sounded and found ourselves in seven fathoms. He

advised that we should keep to sea until sunrise; accordingly I took

an oar and pulled on the land side, until we were a league distant,

when we gave her stern to the sea. Near the shore a wave took us,

that knocked the boat out of water the distance of the throw of a

crowbar,[81] and from the violence with which she struck, nearly all

the people who were in her like dead, were roused to consciousness.

Finding themselves near the shore, they began to move on hands and

feet, crawling to land into some ravines. There we made fire, parched

some of the maize we brought, and found rain water. From the warmth

of the fire the people recovered their faculties, and began somewhat

to exert themselves. The day on which we arrived was the sixth of

November [1528].

[81] _Juego de herradura_, a game played with an iron bar, often

a crowbar, which is grasped at the middle and cast as far as

possible.

Chapter 11

_Of what befell Lope de Oviedo with the Indians._

After the people had eaten, I ordered Lope de Oviedo, who had more

strength and was stouter than any of the rest, to go to some trees

that were near by, and climbing into one of them to look about and

try to gain knowledge of the country. He did as I bade, and made out

that we were on an island.[82] He saw that the land was pawed up in

the manner that ground is wont to be where cattle range, whence it

appeared to him that this should be a country of Christians; and thus

he reported to us. I ordered him to return and examine much more

particularly, and see if there were any roads that were worn, but

without going far, because there might be danger.

[82] See p. 57, note 2.

He went, and coming to a path, took it for the distance of half a

league, and found some huts, without tenants, they having gone into

the field.[83] He took from these an earthen pot, a little dog,

some few mullets, and returned. As it appeared to us he was gone a

long time, we sent two men that they should look to see what might

have happened. They met him near by, and saw that three Indians

with bows and arrows followed and were calling to him, while he,

in the same way, was beckoning them on. Thus he arrived where we

were, the natives remaining a little way back, seated on the shore.

Half an hour after, they were supported by one hundred other Indian

bowmen,[84] who if they were not large, our fears made giants of

them. They stopped near us with the first three. It were idle to

think that any among us could make defence, for it would have been

difficult to find six that could rise from the ground. The assessor

and I went out and called to them, and they came to us. We endeavored

the best we could to encourage them and secure their favor. We gave

them beads and hawk-bells, and each of them gave me an arrow, which

is a pledge of friendship. They told us by signs that they would

return in the morning and bring us something to eat, as at that time

they had nothing.[85]

[83] As this was the root-digging season, the word _campo_ in the

original evidently refers to the digging "grounds" in the shoal

water, and not to "woods" as Mr. Smith interpreted it.

[84] "Two hundred archers with holes in their ears in which were

joints of cane." Oviedo, p. 590.

[85] For an account of these Indians, see ch. 14, p. 50, 51.

Chapter 12

_The Indians bring us food._

At sunrise the next day, the time the Indians appointed, they came

according to their promise, and brought us a large quantity of fish

with certain roots, some a little larger than walnuts, others a

trifle smaller, the greater part got from under the water and with

much labor. In the evening they returned and brought us more fish

and roots. They sent their women and children to look at us, who

went back rich with the hawk-bells and beads given them, and they

came afterwards on other days, returning as before. Finding that we

had provision, fish, roots, water, and other things we asked for, we

determined to embark again and pursue our course. Having dug out our

boat from the sand in which it was buried, it became necessary that

we should strip, and go through great exertion to launch her, we

being in such a state that things very much lighter sufficed to make

us great labor.

Thus embarked, at the distance of two crossbow shots in the sea

we shipped a wave that entirely wet us. As we were naked, and the

cold was very great, the oars loosened in our hands, and the next

blow the sea struck us, capsized the boat. The assessor[86] and two

others held fast to her for preservation, but it happened to be far

otherwise; the boat carried them over, and they were drowned under

her. As the surf near the shore was very high, a single roll of the

sea threw the rest into the waves and half drowned upon the shore

of the island, without our losing any more than those the boat took

down. The survivors escaped naked as they were born, with the loss

of all they had; and although the whole was of little value, at that

time it was worth much, as we were then in November, the cold was

severe, and our bodies were so emaciated the bones might be counted

with little difficulty, having become the perfect figures of death.

For myself I can say that from the month of May passed, I had eaten

no other thing than maize, and sometimes I found myself obliged to

eat it unparched; for although the beasts were slaughtered while the

boats were building, I could never eat their flesh, and I did not

eat fish ten times. I state this to avoid giving excuses, and that

every one may judge in what condition we were. Besides all these

misfortunes, came a north wind upon us, from which we were nearer

to death than life. Thanks be to our Lord that, looking among the

brands we had used there, we found sparks from which we made great

fires. And thus were we asking mercy of Him and pardon for our

transgressions, shedding many tears, and each regretting not his own

fate alone, but that of his comrades about him.

[86] Alonzo de Solis.

At sunset, the Indians thinking that we had not gone, came to seek

us and bring us food; but when they saw us thus, in a plight so

different from what it was before, and so extraordinary, they were

alarmed and turned back. I went toward them and called, when they

returned much frightened. I gave them to understand by signs that

our boat had sunk and three of our number had been drowned. There,

before them, they saw two of the departed, and we who remained were

near joining them. The Indians, at sight of what had befallen us,

and our state of suffering and melancholy destitution, sat down

among us, and from the sorrow and pity they felt, they all began to

lament so earnestly that they might have been heard at a distance,

and continued so doing more than half an hour. It was strange to

see these men, wild and untaught, howling like brutes over our

misfortunes. It caused in me as in others, an increase of feeling and

a livelier sense of our calamity.

The cries having ceased, I talked with the Christians, and said that

if it appeared well to them, I would beg these Indians to take us to

their houses. Some, who had been in New Spain, replied that we ought

not to think of it; for if they should do so, they would sacrifice

us to their idols. But seeing no better course, and that any other

led to a nearer and more certain death, I disregarded what was

said, and besought the Indians to take us to their dwellings. They

signified that it would give them delight, and that we should tarry

a little, that they might do what we asked. Presently thirty men

loaded themselves with wood and started for their houses, which were

far off,[87] and we remained with the others until near night, when,

holding us up, they carried us with all haste. Because of the extreme

coldness of the weather, lest any one should die or fail by the way,

they caused four or five very large fires to be placed at intervals,

and at each they warmed us; and when they saw that we had regained

some heat and strength, they took us to the next so swiftly that they

hardly let us touch our feet to the ground. In this manner we went as

far as their habitations, where we found that they had made a house

for us with many fires in it. An hour after our arrival, they began

to dance and hold great rejoicing, which lasted all night, although

for us there was no joy, festivity nor sleep, awaiting the hour they

should make us victims. In the morning they again gave us fish and

roots, showing us such hospitality that we were reassured, and lost

somewhat the fear of sacrifice.

[87] As he does not speak of crossing water, the dwellings of

these Indians were doubtless those seen by Lope de Oviedo on

the island, where they lived from October until March, for the

purpose of obtaining the roots from the shoal water, as well as

fish and oysters.

Chapter 13

_We hear of other Christians._

This day I saw a native with an article of traffic I knew was not

one we had bestowed; and asking whence it came, I was told by signs

that it had been given by men like ourselves who were behind. Hearing

this I sent two Indians, and with them two Christians to be shown

those persons. They met near by,[88] as the men were coming to look

after us; for the Indians of the place where they were, gave them

information concerning us. They were Captains Andrés Dorantes and

Alonzo del Castillo, with all the persons of their boat. Having come

up they were surprised at seeing us in the condition we were, and

very much pained at having nothing to give us, as they had brought no

other clothes than what they had on.

[88] This would seem to indicate that Dorantes' boat was cast

ashore on the same island.

Thus together again, they related that on the fifth day of that

month,[89] their boat had capsized a league and a half[90] from

there, and they escaped without losing any thing. We all agreed to

refit their [our] boat, that those of us might go in her who had

vigor sufficient and disposition to do so, and the rest should remain

until they became well enough to go, as they best might, along the

coast until God our Lord should be pleased to conduct us alike to a

land of Christians. Directly as we arranged this, we set ourselves

to work. Before we threw the boat out into the water, Tavera, a

gentleman of our company, died; and the boat, which we thought to

use, came to its end, sinking from unfitness to float.

[89] November, 1528. Dorantes' boat was therefore cast ashore the

day before the landing of Cabeza de Vaca's party.

[90] About four miles.

As we were in the condition I have mentioned, the greater number of

us naked, and the weather boisterous for travel, and to cross rivers

and bays by swimming, and we being entirely without provisions or

the means of carrying any, we yielded obedience to what necessity

required, to pass the winter in the place where we were. We also

agreed that four men of the most robust should go on to Panunco,[91]

which we believed to be near, and if, by Divine favor, they should

reach there, they could give information of our remaining on that

island, and of our sorrows and destitution. These men were excellent

swimmers. One of them was Alvaro Fernandez, a Portuguese sailor and

carpenter, the second was named Mendez, the third Figueroa, who was a

native of Toledo, and the fourth Astudillo, a native of Çafra. They

took with them an Indian of the island of Auia.[92]

[91] Pánuco, previously referred to.

[92] The edition of 1542 omits the last two words. _Auia_ has

been regarded as the native name of Malhado Island, but this

is seemingly an error, otherwise Cabeza de Vaca would in all

probability have mentioned the nativity of the Indian in later

speaking (ch. 17) of his death from cold and hunger. Herrera

says: "the island of Cuba," which seems more probable.

Chapter 14

_The departure of four Christians._

The four Christians being gone, after a few days such cold and

tempestuous weather succeeded that the Indians could not pull up

roots, the cane weirs in which they took fish no longer yielded any

thing, and the houses being very open, our people began to die.

Five Christians, of a mess [quartered] on the coast, came to

such extremity that they ate their dead; the body of the last one

only was found unconsumed. Their names were Sierra, Diego Lopez,

Corral, Palacios and Gonçalo Ruiz. This produced great commotion

among the Indians giving rise to so much censure that had they known

it in season to have done so, doubtless they would have destroyed

any survivor, and we should have found ourselves in the utmost

perplexity. Finally, of eighty men who arrived in the two instances,

fifteen only remained alive.

After this, the natives were visited by a disease of the bowels, of

which half their number died. They conceived that we had destroyed

them,[93] and believing it firmly, they concerted among themselves to

dispatch those of us who survived. When they were about to execute

their purpose, an Indian who had charge of me, told them not to

believe we were the cause of those deaths, since if we had such power

we should also have averted the fatality from so many of our people,

whom they had seen die without our being able to minister relief,

already very few of us remaining, and none doing hurt or wrong, and

that it would be better to leave us unharmed. God our Lord willed

that the others should heed this opinion and counsel, and be hindered

in their design.

[93] That is, the Indians believed the Christians to be sorcerers.

To this island we gave the name Malhado.[94] The people[95] we found

there are large and well formed; they have no other arms than bows

and arrows, in the use of which they are very dexterous. The men

have one of their nipples bored from side to side, and some have

both, wearing a cane in each, the length of two palms and a half, and

the thickness of two fingers. They have the under lip also bored,

and wear in it a piece of cane the breadth of half a finger. Their

women are accustomed to great toil. The stay they make on the island

is from October to the end of February. Their subsistence then is

the root I have spoken of, got from under the water in November and

December. They have weirs of cane and take fish only in this season;

afterwards they live on the roots. At the end of February, they go

into other parts to seek food; for then the root is beginning to grow

and is not food.

[94] "Misfortune," "ill-fate."

[95] The Capoques, or Cahoques, and the Hans. See ch. 26.

Those people love their offspring the most of any in the world, and

treat them with the greatest mildness.[96] When it occurs that a son

dies, the parents and kindred weep as does everybody; the wailing

continuing for him a whole year. They begin before dawn every day,

the parents first and after them the whole town. They do the same at

noon and at sunset. After a year of mourning has passed, the rites

of the dead are performed; then they wash and purify themselves from

the stain of smoke. They lament all the deceased in this manner,

except the aged, for whom they show no regret, as they say that

their season has passed, they having no enjoyment, and that living

they would occupy the earth and take aliment from the young. Their

custom is to bury the dead, unless it be those among them who have

been physicians. These they burn. While the fire kindles they are all

dancing and making high festivity, until the bones become powder.

After the lapse of a year the funeral honors are celebrated, every

one taking part in them, when that dust is presented in water for the

relatives to drink.[97]

[96] This is characteristic of all Indians, who punish their

children very rarely.

[97] Nevertheless these same people were so horrified by the

uncanny action of the Spaniards who ate their dead companions

that they sought to put them to death. It should be noted that

the Attacapan and probably the Karankawan tribes of the Texas

coast, to which the people of Malhado Island may have belonged,

were reputed to be cannibals.

Every man has an acknowledged wife. The physicians are allowed more

freedom: they may have two or three wives, among whom exist the

greatest friendship and harmony. From the time a daughter marries,

all that he who takes her to wife kills in hunting or catches in

fishing, the woman brings to the house of her father, without daring

to eat or take any part of it, and thence victuals are taken to the

husband. From that time neither her father nor mother enters his

house, nor can he enter theirs, nor the houses of their children; and

if by chance they are in the direction of meeting, they turn aside,

and pass the distance of a crossbow shot from each other, carrying

the head low the while, the eyes cast on the ground; for they hold

it improper to see or to speak to each other.[98] But the woman has

liberty to converse and communicate with the parents and relatives of

her husband. The custom exists from this island the distance of more

than fifty leagues inland.

[98] Tabu of the mother-in-law by a young man is quite common

among the Indians, but refusal to see or to speak to the wife's

father is very rare.

There is another custom, which is, when a son or brother dies, at the

house where the death takes place they do not go after food for three

months, but sooner famish, their relatives and neighbors providing

what they eat. As in the time we were there a great number of the

natives died, in most houses there was very great hunger, because

of the keeping of this their custom and observance; for although

they who sought after food worked hard, yet from the severity of the

season they could get but little; in consequence, the Indians who

kept me, left the island, and passed over in canoes to the main,

into some bays where are many oysters. For three months in the year

they eat nothing besides these, and drink very bad water.[99] There

is great want of wood: mosquitos are in great plenty. The houses are

of mats, set up on masses of oyster shells, which they sleep upon,

and in skins, should they accidentally possess them. In this way we

lived until April [1529], when we went to the seashore, where we ate

blackberries all the month, during which time the Indians did not

omit to observe their _areitos_[100] and festivities.

[99] On their food, compare Oviedo, p. 592.

[100] An _areito_, or _areyto_, was a dance ceremony of the

Arawak Indians of the West Indies in which their traditions were

recounted in chants. Like _buhío_, previously mentioned, the word

was now carried to the continent.

Chapter 15

_What befell us among the people of Malhado._

On an island of which I have spoken, they wished to make us

physicians without examination or inquiring for diplomas. They cure

by blowing upon the sick, and with that breath and the imposing of

hands they cast out infirmity. They ordered that we also should do

this, and be of use to them in some way. We laughed at what they

did, telling them it was folly, that we knew not how to heal. In

consequence, they withheld food from us until we should practise

what they required. Seeing our persistence, an Indian told me I knew

not what I uttered, in saying that what he knew availed nothing; for

stones and other matters growing about in the fields have virtue,

and that passing a pebble along the stomach would take away pain and

restore health, and certainly then we who were extraordinary men must

possess power and efficacy over all other things. At last, finding

ourselves in great want we were constrained to obey; but without fear

lest we should be blamed for any failure or success.

Their custom is, on finding themselves sick to send for a physician,

and after he has applied the cure, they give him not only all

they have, but seek among their relatives for more to give. The

practitioner scarifies over the seat of pain, and then sucks about

the wound. They make cauteries with fire, a remedy among them in

high repute, which I have tried on myself and found benefit from it.

They afterwards blow on the spot, and having finished, the patient

considers that he is relieved.

Our method was to bless the sick, breathing upon them, and recite

a Pater-noster and an Ave-Maria, praying with all earnestness to

God our Lord that he would give health and influence them to make

us some good return. In his clemency he willed that all those for

whom we supplicated, should tell the others that they were sound

and in health, directly after we made the sign of the blessed cross

over them. For this the Indians treated us kindly; they deprived

themselves of food that they might give to us, and presented us with

skins and some trifles.

So protracted was the hunger we there experienced, that many times I

was three days without eating. The natives also endured as much; and

it appeared to me a thing impossible that life could be so prolonged,

although afterwards I found myself in greater hunger and necessity,

which I shall speak of farther on.

The Indians who had Alonzo del Castillo, Andrés Dorantes, and the

others that remained alive, were of a different tongue and ancestry

from these,[101] and went to the opposite shore of the main to eat

oysters, where they staid until the first day of April, when they

returned. The distance is two leagues in the widest part. The island

is half a league in breadth and five leagues in length.[102]

[101] These were evidently the Hans, of whom he speaks later.

[102] See p. 57, note 2.

The inhabitants of all this region go naked. The women alone have

any part of their persons covered, and it is with a wool[103] that

grows on trees. The damsels dress themselves in deer-skin. The people

are generous to each other of what they possess. They have no chief.

All that are of a lineage keep together. They speak two languages;

those of one are called Capoques, those of the other, Han.[104] They

have a custom when they meet, or from time to time when they visit,

of remaining half an hour before they speak, weeping;[105] and, this

over, he that is visited first rises and gives the other all he has,

which is received, and after a little while he carries it away, and

often goes without saying a word. They have other strange customs;

but I have told the principal of them, and the most remarkable, that

I may pass on and further relate what befell us.

[103] Spanish moss.

[104] Important as it is in affording evidence of the route of

Cabeza de Vaca and his companions, it is not possible, with our

present knowledge of the former tribes of the coast region of

Texas, to identify with certainty the various Indians mentioned

by the narrator. Whether the names given by him are those

which the natives applied to themselves or are those given

by other tribes is unknown, and as no remnant of this once

considerable coast population now exists, the only hope of the

ultimate determination of these Indians lies in the historical

archives of Texas, Mexico, and Spain. The two languages and

stocks represented on the island of Malhado--the Capoque and

the Han--would seem to apply to the Karankawan and Attacapan

families respectively. The Capoques (called Cahoques on p. 87)

are seemingly identical with the Cocos who lived with the Mayayes

on the coast between the Brazos and Colorado Rivers in 1778, and

with the Cokés, who as late as 1850 are described as a branch of

the Koronks (Karankawa). Of the Han people nothing more definite

is known than that which is here recorded.

[105] Compare Barcia, _Ensayo_, 263, 1723, and Gatschet in

_Archaeological and Ethnological Papers of the Peabody Museum_,

Harvard University, 1891, for references to these "weepers."

Chapter 16

_The Christians leave the island of Malhado._

After Dorantes and Castillo returned to the island, they brought

together the Christians, who were somewhat separated, and found them

in all to be fourteen. As I have said, I was opposite on the main,

where my Indians had taken me, and where so great sickness had come

upon me, that if anything before had given me hopes of life, this

were enough to have entirely bereft me of them.

When the Christians heard of my condition, they gave an Indian the

cloak of marten skins we had taken from the cacique, as before

related, to pass them over to where I was that they might visit

me. Twelve of them crossed; for two were so feeble that their

comrades could not venture to bring them. The names of those who

came were Alonzo del Castillo, Andrés Dorantes, Diego Dorantes,

Valdevieso,[106] Estrada, Tostado, Chaves, Gutierrez, Asturiano a

clergyman, Diego de Huelva, Estevanico the black, and Benitez; and

when they reached the main land, they found another, who was one of

our company, named Francisco de Leon. The thirteen together followed

along the coast. So soon as they had come over, my Indians informed

me of it, and that Hieronymo de Alvaniz[107] and Lope de Oviedo

remained on the island. But sickness prevented me from going with my

companions or even seeing them.

[106] Diego Dorantes and Pedro de Valdivieso were cousins of

Andrés Dorantes. See p. 69.

[107] Called also Alaniz--the notary.

I was obliged to remain with the people belonging to the island[108]

more than a year, and because of the hard work they put upon me and

the harsh treatment, I resolved to flee from them and go to those of

Charruco, who inhabit the forests and country of the main, the life I

led being insupportable. Besides much other labor, I had to get out

roots from below the water, and from among the cane where they grew

in the ground. From this employment I had my fingers so worn that

did a straw but touch them they would bleed. Many of the canes are

broken, so they often tore my flesh, and I had to go in the midst of

them with only the clothing on I have mentioned.

[108] The Capoques.

Accordingly, I put myself to contriving how I might get over to the

other Indians, among whom matters turned somewhat more favorably for

me. I set to trafficking, and strove to make my employment profitable

in the ways I could best contrive, and by that means I got food and

good treatment. The Indians would beg me to go from one quarter

to another for things of which they have need; for in consequence

of incessant hostilities, they cannot traverse the country, nor

make many exchanges. With my merchandise and trade I went into the

interior as far as I pleased, and travelled along the coast forty

or fifty leagues. The principal wares were cones and other pieces

of sea-snail, conchs used for cutting, and fruit like a bean of the

highest value among them, which they use as a medicine and employ in

their dances and festivities. Among other matters were sea-beads.

Such were what I carried into the interior; and in barter I got

and brought back skins, ochre with which they rub and color the

face, hard canes of which to make arrows, sinews, cement and flint

for the heads, and tassels of the hair of deer that by dyeing they

make red. This occupation suited me well; for the travel allowed me

liberty to go where I wished, I was not obliged to work, and was not

a slave. Wherever I went I received fair treatment, and the Indians

gave me to eat out of regard to my commodities. My leading object,

while journeying in this business, was to find out the way by which

I should go forward, and I became well known. The inhabitants were

pleased when they saw me, and I had brought them what they wanted;

and those who did not know me sought and desired the acquaintance,

for my reputation. The hardships that I underwent in this were long

to tell, as well of peril and privation as of storms and cold.

Oftentimes they overtook me alone and in the wilderness; but I came

forth from them all by the great mercy of God our Lord. Because of

them I avoided pursuing the business in winter, a season in which

the natives themselves retire to their huts and ranches, torpid and

incapable of exertion.

I was in this country nearly six years,[109] alone among the Indians,

and naked like them. The reason why I remained so long, was that I

might take with me the Christian, Lope de Oviedo, from the island;

Alaniz, his companion, who had been left with him by Alonzo del

Castillo, and by Andrés Dorantes, and the rest, died soon after

their departure; and to get the survivor out from there, I went over

to the island every year, and entreated him that we should go, in

the best way we could contrive, in quest of Christians. He put me

off every year, saying in the next coming we would start. At last I

got him off, crossing him over the bay, and over four rivers in the

coast,[110] as he could not swim. In this way we went on with some

Indians, until coming to a bay a league in width, and everywhere

deep. From the appearance we supposed it to be that which is called

Espiritu Sancto. We met some Indians on the other side of it, coming

to visit ours, who told us that beyond them were three men like us,

and gave their names. We asked for the others, and were told that

they were all dead of cold and hunger; that the Indians farther on,

of whom they were, for their diversion had killed Diego Dorantes,

Valdevieso, and Diego de Huelva,[111] because they left one house for

another; and that other Indians, their neighbors with whom Captain

Dorantes now was, had in consequence of a dream, killed Esquivel

and Mendez.[112] We asked how the living were situated, and they

answered that they were very ill used, the boys and some of the

Indian men being very idle, out of cruelty gave them many kicks,

cuffs, and blows with sticks; that such was the life they led.

[109] From 1528 to 1533.

[110] The identification of Malhado Island is a difficult

problem. On general principles Galveston Island would seem to

supply the conditions, in that it more likely would have been

inhabited by two distinct tribes, perhaps representing distinct

linguistic families, as it is known to have been occupied by

Indians (the Karankawa) at a later period, besides having the

smaller island or islands behind it. But its size and the other

conditions are not in favor of the identification, for its

length is at least twice as great as that of Malhado, as given

in the narrative, and it is also more than two leagues from

its nearest end to the first stream that the Spaniards crossed

after departing from the island (Oviedo, p. 593). Mr. James

Newton Baskett suggests that the so-called Velasco Island, next

south of Galveston Island, better fulfils the requirements, as

indeed it does topographically, except for the fact that it

is really a peninsula. Aside from this, it possesses all the

physical features,--length and width, distance from the first

stream to the southward, and having the necessary island or

islands (Mud and San Luis) off its northern shore. Accepting

Mr. Baskett's determination, it is not difficult to account for

the four streams, "very large and of rapid current," one of

which flowed directly into the gulf. Following the journey of

the Spaniards from the island, down the coast, in April, when

the streams were swollen by flood, the first river was crossed

in two leagues after they had reached the mainland. This was

evidently Oyster Creek. Three leagues farther was another river,

running so powerfully that one of the rafts was driven to sea

more than a league. This fully agrees with the Brazos, which

indeed is the only large stream of the landlocked Texas coast

that flows directly into the gulf. Four leagues still farther

they reached another river, where the boat of the comptroller and

the commissary was found. From this fact it may be assumed that

this stream also flowed into the open gulf, a condition satisfied

by Caney Creek. The San Bernardo may well have escaped notice in

travelling near the coast, from the fact that it flows into Cedar

Lake. Five or six leagues more brought them to another large

river (the Colorado), which the Indians carried them across in a

canoe; and in four days they reached the bay of Espíritu Santo

(La Vaca Bay?). "The bay was broad, nearly a league across. The

side toward Pánuco [the south] forms a point running out nearly

a quarter of a league, having on it some large white sand-stacks

which it is reasonable to suppose can be descried from a distance

at sea, and were consequently thought to mark the River Espíritu

Santo." After two days of exertion they succeeded in crossing the

bay in a broken canoe; and at the end of twelve leagues they came

to a small bay not more than the breadth of a river. Here they

found Figueroa, the only survivor of the four who had attempted

to return to Mexico. The distance from Malhado Island is given as

sixty leagues, consequently the journey from the Colorado to the

bay now reached, which seems to be no other than San Antonio Bay,

covered thirty-two to thirty-three leagues. Lofty sand dunes,

such as those seen on what we regard as perhaps La Vaca Bay,

occur on San Antonio Bay. See _United States Coast Survey Report_

for 1859, p. 325. The western shore of the bay is a bluff or bank

of twenty feet. "At one place on this side, a singular range of

sand-hills, known as the Sand-mounds, approaches the shore. The

highest peak is about seventy-five feet above the bay."

[111] These were all members of Dorantes' party who visited

Cabeza de Vaca when he was ill on the mainland. See p. 55.

[112] Esquivel was one of the party under Enrriquez the

comptroller; Mendez was one of the good swimmers who started from

the island in the hope of reaching Pánuco.

We desired to be informed of the country ahead, and of the

subsistence: they said there was nothing to eat, and that it was thin

of people, who suffered of cold, having no skins or other things

to cover them. They told us also if we wished to see those three

Christians, two days from that time the Indians who had them would

come to eat walnuts a league from there on the margin of that river;

and that we might know what they told us of the ill usage to be

true, they slapped my companion and beat him with a stick, and I was

not left without my portion. Many times they threw lumps of mud at

us, and every day they put their arrows to our hearts, saying that

they were inclined to kill us in the way that they had destroyed

our friends. Lope Oviedo, my comrade, in fear said that he wished

to go back with the women of those who had crossed the bay with us,

the men having remained some distance behind. I contended strongly

against his returning, and urged my objections; but in no way could I

keep him. So he went back, and I remained alone with those savages.

They are called Quevenes,[113] and those with whom he returned,

Deaguanes.[114]

[113] _Guevenes_ in the edition of 1542 (Bandelier translation).

There is reason to believe that these people may have been

identical with the Cohani, who lived west of the Colorado River

of Texas in the first quarter of the nineteenth century.

[114] _Doguenes_ in ch. 26.

Chapter 17

_The coming of Indians with Andrés Dorantes, Castillo, and

Estevanico._

Two days after Lope de Oviedo left, the Indians who had Alonzo del

Castillo and Andrés Dorantes, came to the place of which we had been

told, to eat walnuts. These are ground with a kind of small grain,

and this is the subsistence of the people two months in the year

without any other thing; but even the nuts they do not have every

season, as the tree produces in alternate years. The fruit is the

size of that in Galicia; the trees are very large and numerous.

An Indian told me of the arrival of the Christians, and that if I

wished to see them I must steal away and flee to the point of a wood

to which he directed me, and that as he and others, kindred of his,

should pass by there to visit those Indians, they would take me with

them to the spot where the Christians were. I determined to attempt

this and trust to them, as they spoke a language distinct from that

of the others. I did so, and the next day they left, and found me in

the place that had been pointed out, and accordingly took me with

them.

When I arrived near their abode, Andrés Dorantes came out to see

who it could be, for the Indians had told him that a Christian was

coming. His astonishment was great when he saw me, as they had for

many a day considered me dead, and the natives had said that I was.

We gave many thanks at seeing ourselves together, and this was a day

to us of the greatest pleasure we had enjoyed in life. Having come

to where Castillo was, they inquired of me where I was going. I told

them my purpose was to reach the land of Christians, I being then in

search and pursuit of it. Andrés Dorantes said that for a long time

he had entreated Castillo and Estevanico to go forward; but that they

dared not venture, because they knew not how to swim, and greatly

dreaded the rivers and bays they should have to cross, there being

many in that country. Thus the Almighty had been pleased to preserve

me through many trials and diseases, conducting me in the end to the

fellowship of those who had abandoned me, that I might lead them over

the bays and rivers that obstructed our progress. They advised me on

no account to let the natives know or have a suspicion of my desire

to go on, else they would destroy me; and that for success it would

be necessary for me to remain quiet until the end of six months, when

comes the season in which these Indians go to another part of the

country to eat prickly pears.[115] People would arrive from parts

farther on, bringing bows to barter and for exchange, with whom,

after making our escape, we should be able to go on their return.

Having consented to this course, I remained. The prickly pear is the

size of a hen's egg, vermillion and black in color, and of agreeable

flavor. The natives live on it three months in the year, having

nothing beside.

[115] The fruit of the _Opuntia_ cactus, of which there are about

two hundred species.

I was given as a slave to an Indian, with whom was Dorantes. He

was blind of one eye, as were also his wife and sons, and likewise

another who was with him; so that of a fashion they were all blind.

These are called Marians;[116] Castillo was with another neighboring

people, called Yguases.[117]

[116] _Mariames_ in ch. 26, and in the edition of 1542. These

people are not identified. They were possibly of Karankawan or

Coahuiltecan affinity, but there is no direct evidence of this.

[117] _Iguaces_ in the edition of 1542.

While here the Christians related to me how they had left the

island of Malhado, and found the boat in which the comptroller and

the friars had sailed, bottom up on the seashore; and that going

along crossing the rivers, which are four,[118] very large and of

rapid current, their boats[119] were swept away and carried to sea,

where four of their number were drowned; that thus they proceeded

until they crossed the bay, getting over it with great difficulty,

and fifteen leagues thence they came to another. By the time they

reached this, they had lost two companions in the sixty leagues they

travelled, and those remaining were nearly dead, in all the while

having eaten nothing but crabs and rockweed.[120] Arrived at this

bay, they found Indians eating mulberries, who, when they saw them,

went to a cape opposite. While contriving and seeking for some means

to cross the bay, there came over to them an Indian, and a Christian

whom they recognized to be Figueroa, one of the four we had sent

forward from the island of Malhado. He there recounted how he and

his companions had got as far as that place, when two of them and

an Indian[121] died of cold and hunger, being exposed in the most

inclement of seasons. He and Mendez were taken by the Indians, and

while with them his associate fled, going as well as he could in the

direction of Pánuco, and the natives pursuing, put him to death.

[118] See p. 57, note 2.

[119] Rafts built for the purpose of crossing the streams.

[120] _Yerba pedrera_: "Of which glass is made in Spain." Oviedo,

p. 593. Doubtless kelp. It was burned and from the product glass

and soap were formerly manufactured. It is still a source of

manufacture of carbonate of soda and iodine.

[121] Alvaro Fernandez, the Portuguese sailor and carpenter;

Astudillo, the native of Zafra; and the Indian from the island of

"Auia" (Cuba).

While living with these Indians, Figueroa learned from them that

there was a Christian among the Mariames, who had come over from the

opposite side, and he found him among the Quevenes. This was Hernando

de Esquivel, a native of Badajoz, who had come in company with the

commissary. From him Figueroa learned the end to which the Governor,

the comptroller, and the others had come. Esquivel told him that the

comptroller and the friars had upset their boat at the confluence

of the rivers,[122] and that the boat of the Governor, moving along

the coast, came with its people to land. Narváez went in the boat

until arriving at that great bay, where he took in the people, and,

crossing them to the opposite point, returned for the comptroller,

the friars, and the rest. And he related that being disembarked, the

Governor had recalled the commission the comptroller held as his

lieutenant, assigning the duties to a captain with him named Pantoja:

that Narváez stayed the night in his boat, not wishing to come on

shore, having a cockswain with him and a page who was unwell, there

being no water nor anything to eat on board; that at midnight, the

boat having only a stone for anchor, the north wind blowing strongly

took her unobserved to sea, and they never knew more of their

commander.

[122] The Mississippi delta.

The others then went along the coast, and as they were arrested by a

wide extent of water, they made rafts with much labor, on which they

crossed to the opposite shore. Going on, they arrived at a point of

woods on the banks of the water where were Indians, who, as they saw

them coming, put their houses[123] into their canoes and went over to

the opposite side. The Christians, in consideration of the season,

for it was now the month of November, stopped at this wood, where

they found water and fuel, some crabs and shell-fish. They began, one

by one, to die of cold and hunger; and, more than this, Pantoja, who

was Lieutenant-Governor, used them severely, which Soto-Mayor (the

brother of Vasco Porcallo, of the island of Cuba), who had come with

the armament as camp-master, not being able to bear, had a struggle

with him, and, giving him a blow with a club, Pantoja was instantly

killed.

[123] Doubtless consisting of mats fastened to a framework.

Thus did the number go on diminishing. The living dried the flesh of

them that died; and the last that died was Soto-Mayor, when Esquivel

preserved his flesh, and, feeding on it, sustained existence until

the first of March, when an Indian of those that had fled, coming to

see if they were alive, took Esquivel with him. While he was in the

possession of the native, Figueroa saw him, and learned all that had

been related. He besought Esquivel to come with him, that together

they might pursue the way to Pánuco; to which Esquivel would not

consent, saying that he had understood from the friars that Pánuco

had been left behind:[124] so he remained there and Figueroa went to

the coast where he was accustomed to live.

[124] That is, he supposed that he was then somewhere on the

coast of central Mexico.

Chapter 18

_The story Figueroa recounted from Esquivel._

This account was all given by Figueroa, according to the relation he

received from Esquivel, and from him through the others it came to

me; whence may be seen and understood the fate of the armament, and

the individual fortunes of the greater part of the people. Figueroa

said, moreover, that if the Christians should at any time go in that

direction, it were possible they might see Esquivel, for he knew that

he had fled from the Indian with whom he was, to the Mariames, who

were neighbors. After Figueroa had finished telling the story, he and

the Asturian made an attempt to go to other Indians farther on; but

as soon as they who had the Christians discovered it, they followed,

and beating them severely, stripped the Asturian and shot an arrow

through his arm. They finally escaped by flight.

The other Christians remained, and prevailed on the Indians to

receive them as slaves. In their service they were abused as slaves

never were, nor men in any condition have ever been. Not content with

frequently buffeting them, striking them with sticks, and pulling

out their beard for amusement, they killed three of the six for only

going from one house to another. These were the persons I have named

before: Diego Dorantes, Valdivieso, and Diego de Huelva: and the

three that remained looked forward to the same fate. Not to endure

this life, Andrés Dorantes fled, and passed to the Mariames, the

people among whom Esquivel tarried. They told him that having had

Esquivel there, he wished to run away because a woman dreamed that a

son of hers would kill him; and that they followed after, and slew

him. They showed Dorantes his sword, beads, and book, with other

things that had been his.[125]

[125] See the extracts from the letter of the survivors

(preserved by Oviedo) appended to this chapter.

Thus in obedience to their custom they take life, destroying even

their male children on account of dreams. They cast away their

daughters at birth, and cause them to be eaten by dogs. The reason of

their doing this, as they state, is because all the nations of the

country are their foes; and as they have unceasing war with them,

if they were to marry away their daughters, they would so greatly

multiply their enemies that they must be overcome and made slaves;

thus they prefer to destroy all, rather than that from them should

come a single enemy. We asked why they did not themselves marry

them; and they said it would be a disgustful thing to marry among

relatives, and far better to kill than to give them either to their

kindred or to their foes.

This is likewise the practice of their neighbors the Yguazes, but of

no other people of that country. When the men would marry, they buy

the women of their enemies: the price paid for a wife is a bow, the

best that can be got, with two arrows: if it happens that the suitor

should have no bow, then a net a fathom in length and another in

breadth. They kill their male children, and buy those of strangers.

The marriage state continues no longer than while the parties are

satisfied, and they separate for the slightest cause. Dorantes was

among this people, and after a few days escaped.

Castillo and Estevanico went inland to the Yguazes. This people are

universally good archers and of a fine symmetry, although not so

large as those we left. They have a nipple and a lip bored.[126]

Their support is principally roots, of two or three kinds, and they

look for them over the face of all the country. The food is poor

and gripes the persons who eat it. The roots require roasting two

days: many are very bitter, and withal difficult to be dug. They are

sought the distance of two or three leagues, and so great is the

want these people experience, that they cannot get through the year

without them. Occasionally they kill deer, and at times take fish;

but the quantity is so small and the famine so great, that they eat

spiders and the eggs of ants, worms, lizards, salamanders, snakes,

and vipers that kill whom they strike; and they eat earth and wood,

and all that there is, the dung of deer, and other things that I omit

to mention; and I honestly believe that were there stones in that

land they would eat them. They save the bones of the fishes they

consume, of snakes and other animals, that they may afterwards beat

them together and eat the powder. The men bear no burthens, nor carry

anything of weight; such are borne by women and old men who are of

the least esteem. They have not so great love for their children as

those we have before spoken of.[127] Some among them are accustomed

to sin against nature. The women work very hard, and do a great deal;

of the twenty-four hours they have only six of repose; the rest of

the night they pass in heating the ovens to bake those roots they

eat. At daybreak they begin to dig them, to bring wood and water to

their houses and get in readiness other things that may be necessary.

The majority of the people are great thieves; for though they are

free to divide with each other, on turning the head, even a son or a

father will take what he can. They are great liars, and also great

drunkards, which they became from the use of a certain liquor.[128]

[126] Evidently for the insertion of canes, as was the custom of

the Capoques and Hans of the island of Malhado.

[127] The Capoques of Malhado Island.

[128] It is not improbable that the liquor was made from the

peyote, or mescal button, still used by the Kiowa, Comanche, and

others to produce stupefaction. See Mooney in _Seventeenth Report

of the Bureau of American Ethnology_, 1898.

These Indians are so accustomed to running, that without rest or

fatigue they follow a deer from morning to night. In this way they

kill many. They pursue them until tired down, and sometimes overtake

them in the race. Their houses are of matting, placed upon four

hoops. They carry them on the back, and remove every two or three

days in search of food. Nothing is planted for support. They are a

merry people, considering the hunger they suffer; for they never

cease, notwithstanding, to observe their festivities and _areytos_.

To them the happiest part of the year is the season of eating prickly

pears; they have hunger then no longer, pass all the time in dancing,

and eat day and night. While these last, they squeeze out the juice,

open and set them to dry, and when dry they are put in hampers like

figs. These they keep to eat on their way back. The peel is beaten to

powder.

It occurred to us many times while we were among this people, and

there was no food, to be three or four days without eating, when

they, to revive our spirits, would tell us not to be sad, that soon

there would be prickly pears when we should eat a plenty and drink

of the juice, when our bellies would be very big and we should be

content and joyful, having no hunger. From the time they first told

us this, to that at which the earliest were ripe enough to be eaten,

was an interval of five or six months; so having tarried until the

lapse of this period, and the season had come, we went to eat the

fruit.

We found mosquitos of three sorts, and all of them abundant in every

part of the country. They poison and inflame, and during the greater

part of the summer gave us great annoyance. As a protection we made

fires, encircling the people with them, burning rotten and wet wood

to produce smoke without flame. The remedy brought another trouble,

and the night long we did little else than shed tears from the smoke

that came into our eyes, besides feeling intense heat from the many

fires, and if at any time we went out for repose to the seaside and

fell asleep, we were reminded with blows to make up the fires. The

Indians of the interior have a different method, as intolerable, and

worse even than the one I have spoken of, which is to go with brands

in the hand firing the plains and forests within their reach, that

the mosquitos may fly away, and at the same time to drive out lizards

and other like things from the earth for them to eat.

They are accustomed also to kill deer by encircling them with fires.

The pasturage is taken from the cattle by burning, that necessity may

drive them to seek it in places where it is desired they should go.

They encamp only where there are wood and water; and sometimes all

carry loads of these when they go to hunt deer, which are usually

found where neither is to be got. On the day of their arrival, they

kill the deer and other animals which they can, and consume all the

water and all the wood in cooking and on the fires they make to

relieve them of mosquitos. They remain the next day to get something

to sustain them on their return; and when they go, such is their

state from those insects that they appear to have the affliction

of holy Lazarus. In this way do they appease their hunger, two or

three times in the year, at the cost I have mentioned. From my own

experience, I can state there is no torment known in this world that

can equal it.

Inland are many deer, birds, and beasts other than those I have

spoken of. Cattle[129] come as far as here. Three times I have seen

them and eaten of their meat. I think they are about the size of

those in Spain. They have small horns like the cows of Morocco; the

hair is very long and flocky like the merino's. Some are tawny,

others black. To my judgment the flesh is finer and fatter than that

of this country. Of the skins of those not full grown the Indians

make blankets, and of the larger they make shoes and bucklers. They

come as far as the sea-coast of Florida, from a northerly direction,

ranging through a tract of more than four hundred leagues; and

throughout the whole region over which they run, the people who

inhabit near, descend and live upon them, distributing a vast many

hides into the interior country.

[129] This is the first printed reference to the bison.

* * * * *

[Buckingham Smith introduces the following translation from the

_Letter_ (Oviedo, pp. 594-598) as throwing important light on the

occurrences related in the foregoing chapter. F. W. H.]

"Thus ended the account of Figueroa, without his being able

to add more to it, than that Esquivel was about there in the

possession of some natives, and they might see him in a little

while; but a month afterwards, it was known that he no longer

lived, for having gone from the natives, they had followed after

and put him to death. Figueroa tarried a few moments, long

enough to relate the sad news. The Indian who brought him would

not permit him to remain. Asturiano, the clergyman, and a young

man being the only ones who could swim, accompanied them for

the purpose of returning with fish which they were promised, as

likewise that they should be brought back over that bay; but

when the Indians found them at their houses, they would neither

bring them nor let them return; on the contrary, they put their

houses into their canoes and took the two Christians with them,

saying that they would soon come back....

"The eight companions remained that day to appease their hunger,

and the next morning they saw two Indians of a rancho coming

over the water to place their dwellings on the hither side. The

purpose was to live on blackberries that grow in some places

along the coast, which they seek at a season they know full

well, and although precarious, they promise a food that supports

life. They called to the Indians, who came as to persons they

thought lightly of, taking some part of what they possessed

almost by force. The Christians besought the natives to set them

over, which they did in a canoe, taking them to their houses

near by, and at dark gave them a small quantity of fish. They

went out the next day for more, and returned at night, giving

them a part of what they had caught. The day following they

moved off with the Christians and never after were the two seen

whom the other Indians had taken away.

"At last the natives, weary of seeking food for their guests,

turned away five, that they should go to some Indians who they

said were to be found in another bay, six leagues farther on.

Alonzo del Castillo went there with Pedro de Valdivieso, cousin

of Andrés Dorantes, and another, Diego de Huelva, where they

remained a long time; the two others went down near the coast,

seeking relief, where they died, as Dorantes states, who found

the bodies, one of whom, Diego Dorantes, was his cousin. The two

hidalgos and the negro remaining in that rancho, sufficed for

the use of the natives, to bring back-loads of wood and water as

slaves. After three or four days however, these likewise were

turned off, when for some time they wandered about lost, without

hope of relief; and going naked among marshes, having been

previously despoiled one night of their clothing, they came upon

those dead.

"They continued the route until they found some Indians, with

whom Andrés Dorantes remained. A cousin of his, one of the three

who had gone on to the bay where they stopped, came over from

the opposite shore, and told him that the swimmers who went

from them had passed in that direction, having their clothes

taken from them and they much bruised about the head with sticks

because they would not remain; still though beaten and stripped,

they had gone on for the sake of the oath they had taken, never

to stop even if death stood in the path, before coming to a

country of Christians. Dorantes states that he saw in the rancho

where he was, the clothes belonging to the clergyman and to one

of the swimmers, with a breviary or prayer book. Valdivieso

returned, and a couple of days afterwards was killed, because he

wished to flee, and likewise in a little time Diego de Huelva,

because he forsook one lodge-house for another.

"The Christians were there made slaves, forced with more cruelty

to serve than the Moor would have used. Besides going stark

naked and bare-footed over the coast burning in summer like

fire, their continual occupation was bringing wood and water on

the back, or whatever the Indians needed, and dragging canoes

over inundated grounds in hot weather.

"These natives eat nothing the year round but fish, and of

that not much. They experience far less hunger however, than

the inhabitants inland among whom the Spaniards afterwards

lived. The food often fails, causing frequent removals, or

otherwise they starve.... They have finger nails that for any

ordinary purpose are knives, and are their principal arms among

themselves....

"The Spaniards lived here fourteen months, from May to the May

ensuing of the year 1530, and to the middle of the month of

August, when Andrés Dorantes, being at a point that appeared

most favorable for going, commended himself to God, and went off

at mid-day.... Castillo tarried among that hard people a year

and a half later, until an opportunity presented for starting;

but on arriving he found only the negro; Dorantes, finding these

Indians unbearably cruel, had gone back more than twenty leagues

to a river near the bay of Espíritu Sancto, among those who had

killed Esquivel, the solitary one that had escaped from the

boats of the Governor and Alonzo Enrriques, slain, as they were

told, because a woman had dreamed some absurdity. The people of

this country have belief in dreams, their only superstition. On

account of them they will even kill their children; and this

hidalgo Dorantes states, that in the course of four years he

had been a witness to the killing or burying alive of eleven or

twelve young males, and rarely do they let a girl live....

"Andrés Dorantes passed ten months among this people, enduring

much privation with continual labor, and in fear of being

killed...."

Chapter 19

_Our separation by the Indians._

When the six months were over, I had to spend with the Christians to

put in execution the plan we had concerted, the Indians went after

prickly pears, the place at which they grew being thirty leagues

off;[130] and when we approached the point of flight, those among

whom we were, quarrelled about a woman. After striking with fists,

beating with sticks and bruising heads in great anger, each took

his lodge and went his way, whence it became necessary that the

Christians should also separate, and in no way could we come together

until another year.

[130] In an article on the wanderings of Cabeza de Vaca, by

Ponton and McFarland (_Texas Historical Association Quarterly_,

I. 176, map, 1898), the northern limit of the cactus belt is

placed on a line extending irregularly westward from the mouth of

the Colorado River of Texas.

In this time I passed a hard life, caused as much by hunger as ill

usage. Three times I was obliged to run from my masters, and each

time they went in pursuit and endeavored to slay me; but God our Lord

in his mercy chose to protect and preserve me; and when the season

of prickly pears returned, we again came together in the same place.

After we had arranged our escape, and appointed a time, that very day

the Indians separated and all went back. I told my comrades I would

wait for them among the prickly-pear plants until the moon should be

full. This day was the first of September,[131] and the first of the

moon; and I said that if in this time they did not come as we had

agreed, I would leave and go alone. So we parted, each going with his

Indians. I remained with mine until the thirteenth day of the moon,

having determined to flee to others when it should be full.

[131] 1534. Cabeza de Vaca had evidently lost his reckoning

(perhaps during his illness), as the date of the new moon in this

year was September 8.

At this time Andrés Dorantes arrived with Estevanico and informed

me that they had left Castillo with other Indians near by, called

Lanegados;[132] that they had encountered great obstacles and

wandered about lost; that the next day the Indians, among whom we

were, would move to where Castillo was, and were going to unite with

those who held him and become friends, having been at war until then,

and that in this way we should recover Castillo.

[132] _Anagados_ in the 1542 edition. The tribe cannot be

identified, although it may be well known under some other name.

_Anegado_ is Spanish for "overflowed," "inundated," but it is by

no means certain that the Spaniards applied this name to them.

Buckingham Smith suggests that they may have been the Nacadoch

(Nacogdoches), but this does not seem probable, as the latter

tribe lived very far to the northeast of the point where the

Spaniards now were, that is, some thirty leagues inland from the

coast between latitude 28° and 29°. The name sounds more like

_N[)a]dáko_, the designation which the Anadarcos give themselves.

This Caddoan tribe, when first known, lived high up on the Brazos

and the Trinity, but in 1812 their village was on the Sabine.

They are now incorporated with the Caddo in Oklahoma.

We had thirst all the time we ate the pears, which we quenched with

their juice. We caught it in a hole made in the earth, and when it

was full we drank until satisfied. It is sweet, and the color of

must. In this manner they collect it for lack of vessels. There are

many kinds of prickly pears, among them some very good, although they

all appeared to me to be so, hunger never having given me leisure to

choose, nor to reflect upon which were the best.

Nearly all these people drink rain-water, which lies about in

spots. Although there are rivers, as the Indians never have fixed

habitations, there are no familiar or known places for getting water.

Throughout the country are extensive and beautiful plains with good

pasturage; and I think it would be a very fruitful region were it

worked and inhabited by civilized men. We nowhere saw mountains.

These Indians told us that there was another people next in advance

of us, called Camones,[133] living towards the coast, and that they

had killed the people who came in the boat of Peñalosa and Tellez,

who arrived so feeble that even while being slain they could offer no

resistance, and were all destroyed. We were shown their clothes and

arms, and were told that the boat lay there stranded. This, the fifth

boat, had remained till then unaccounted for. We have already stated

how the boat of the Governor had been carried out to sea, and that of

the comptroller and the friars had been cast away on the coast, of

which Esquevel[134] narrated the fate of the men. We have once told

how the two boats in which Castillo, I, and Dorantes came, foundered

near the Island of Malhado.

[133] _Camoles_ in ch. 26. They evidently lived toward the

northeast, north of Malhado Island; unidentified.

[134] Esquivel.

Chapter 20

_Of our escape._

The second day after we had moved, we commended ourselves to God and

set forth with speed, trusting, for all the lateness of the season

and that the prickly pears were about ending, with the mast which

remained in the woods [field], we might still be enabled to travel

over a large territory. Hurrying on that day in great dread lest

the Indians should overtake us, we saw some smokes, and going in

the direction of them we arrived there after vespers, and found an

Indian. He ran as he discovered us coming, not being willing to wait

for us. We sent the negro[135] after him, when he stopped, seeing him

alone. The negro told him we were seeking the people who made those

fires. He answered that their houses were near by, and he would guide

us to them. So we followed him. He ran to make known our approach,

and at sunset we saw the houses. Before our arrival, at the distance

of two crossbow shots from them, we found four Indians, who waited

for us and received us well. We said in the language of the Mariames,

that we were coming to look for them. They were evidently pleased

with our company, and took us to their dwellings. Dorantes and the

negro were lodged in the house of a physician,[136] Castillo and

myself in that of another.

[135] Estévanico.

[136] A shaman, or "medicine-man."

These people speak a different language, and are called

Avavares.[137] They are the same that carried bows to those with whom

we formerly lived,[138] going to traffic with them, and although

they are of a different nation and tongue, they understand the other

language. They arrived that day with their lodges, at the place where

we found them. The community directly brought us a great many prickly

pears, having heard of us before, of our cures, and of the wonders

our Lord worked by us, which, although there had been no others,

were adequate to open ways for us through a country poor like this,

to afford us people where oftentimes there are none, and to lead us

through immediate dangers, not permitting us to be killed, sustaining

us under great want, and putting into those nations the heart of

kindness, as we shall relate hereafter.

[137] _Chavavares_ in ch. 26, in which it is said that they

joined the Mariames. Their affinity is unknown. The statement

that the Spaniards are again among these tribes suggests that

they were now pursuing a northerly direction.

[138] The Mariames. See note to ch. 26, respecting these tribes.

Chapter 21

_Our cure of some of the afflicted._

That same night of our arrival, some Indians came to Castillo and

told him that they had great pain in the head, begging him to cure

them. After he made over them the sign of the cross, and commended

them to God, they instantly said that all the pain had left, and went

to their houses bringing us prickly pears, with a piece of venison,

a thing to us little known. As the report of Castillo's performances

spread, many came to us that night sick, that we should heal them,

each bringing a piece of venison, until the quantity became so great

we knew not where to dispose of it. We gave many thanks to God, for

every day went on increasing his compassion and his gifts. After

the sick were attended to, they began to dance and sing, making

themselves festive, until sunrise; and because of our arrival, the

rejoicing was continued for three days.

When these were ended, we asked the Indians about the country farther

on, the people we should find in it, and of the subsistence there.

They answered us, that throughout all the region prickly-pear plants

abounded; but the fruit was now gathered and all the people had gone

back to their houses. They said the country was very cold, and there

were few skins. Reflecting on this, and that it was already winter,

we resolved to pass the season with these Indians.

Five days after our arrival, all the Indians went off, taking us with

them to gather more prickly pears, where there were other peoples

speaking different tongues. After walking five days in great hunger,

since on the way was no manner of fruit, we came to a river[139]

and put up our houses. We then went to seek the product of certain

trees, which is like peas. As there are no paths in the country, I

was detained some time. The others returned, and coming to look for

them in the dark I got lost. Thank God I found a burning tree, and

in the warmth of it I passed the cold of that night. In the morning,

loading myself with sticks, and taking two brands with me, I returned

to seek them. In this manner I wandered five days, ever with my fire

and load; for if the wood had failed me where none could be found,

as many parts are without any, though I might have sought sticks

elsewhere, there would have been no fire to kindle them. This was all

the protection I had against cold, while walking naked as I was born.

Going to the low woods near the rivers, I prepared myself for the

night, stopping in them before sunset. I made a hole in the ground

and threw in fuel which the trees abundantly afforded, collected in

good quantity from those that were fallen and dry. About the whole

I made four fires, in the form of a cross, which I watched and made

up from time to time. I also gathered some bundles of the coarse

straw that there abounds, with which I covered myself in the hole. In

this way I was sheltered at night from cold. On one occasion while

I slept, the fire fell upon the straw, when it began to blaze so

rapidly that notwithstanding the haste I made to get out of it, I

carried some marks on my hair of the danger to which I was exposed.

All this while I tasted not a mouthful, nor did I find anything

I could eat. My feet were bare and bled a good deal. Through the

mercy of God, the wind did not blow from the north in all this time,

otherwise I should have died.

[139] This may have been the San Antonio or the San

Marcos-Guadalupe.

At the end of the fifth day I arrived on the margin of a river,[140]

where I found the Indians, who with the Christians, had considered me

dead, supposing that I had been stung by a viper. All were rejoiced

to see me, and most so were my companions. They said that up to that

time they had struggled with great hunger, which was the cause of

their not having sought me. At night, all gave me of their prickly

pears, and the next morning we set out for a place where they were

in large quantity, with which we satisfied our great craving, the

Christians rendering thanks to our Lord that He had ever given us His

aid.

[140] Presumably the river last mentioned, where they had erected

their shelters.

Chapter 22

_The coming of other sick to us the next day._

The next day morning, many Indians came, and brought five persons

who had cramps and were very unwell. They came that Castillo might

cure them. Each offered his bow and arrows, which Castillo received.

At sunset he blessed them, commending them to God our Lord, and we

all prayed to Him the best we could to send health; for that He knew

there was no other means, than through Him, by which this people

would aid us, so we could come forth from this unhappy existence.

He bestowed it so mercifully, that, the morning having come, all

got up well and sound, and were as strong as though they never had

a disorder. It caused great admiration, and inclined us to render

many thanks to God our Lord, whose goodness we now clearly beheld,

giving us firm hopes that He would liberate and bring us to where we

might serve Him. For myself I can say that I ever had trust in His

providence that He would lead me out from that captivity, and thus I

always spoke of it to my companions.

The Indians having gone and taken their friends with them in health,

we departed for a place at which others were eating prickly pears.

These people are called Cuthalchuches[141] and Malicones, who speak

different tongues. Adjoining them were others called Coayos and

Susolas, who were on the opposite side, others called Atayos,[142]

who were at war with the Susolas, exchanging arrow shots daily. As

through all the country they talked only of the wonders which God our

Lord worked through us, persons came from many parts to seek us that

we might cure them. At the end of the second day after our arrival,

some of the Susolas came to us and besought Castillo that he would go

to cure one wounded and others sick, and they said that among them

was one very near his end. Castillo was a timid practitioner, most

so in serious and dangerous cases, believing that his sins would

weigh, and some day hinder him in performing cures. The Indians told

me to go and heal them, as they liked me; they remembered that I

had ministered to them in the walnut grove when they gave us nuts

and skins, which occurred when I first joined the Christians. So I

had to go with them, and Dorantes accompanied me with Estevanico.

Coming near their huts, I perceived that the sick man we went to heal

was dead. Many persons were around him weeping, and his house was

prostrate, a sign that the one who dwelt in it is no more.[143] When

I arrived I found his eyes rolled up, and the pulse gone, he having

all the appearances of death, as they seemed to me and as Dorantes

said. I removed a mat with which he was covered, and supplicated our

Lord as fervently as I could, that He would be pleased to give health

to him, and to the rest that might have need of it. After he had been

blessed and breathed upon many times, they brought me his bow, and

gave me a basket of pounded prickly pears.

[141] Cultalchulches in ch. 26 (q. v.), and in the edition of

1542.

[142] These were possibly the Adai, or Adaize, although their

country was in northeastern Texas, about Red River and the

Sabine; nevertheless they may have wandered very far during the

prickly-pear season. There is evidence that in 1792, fourteen

families of the Adai migrated to a region south of San Antonio de

Béjar, where they were merged with the tribes living thereabout.

The main body, although greatly reduced, did not leave their old

home until the nineteenth century, when the remnant, who had been

missionized, were incorporated with their kindred the Caddo.

[143] It is not uncommon for all the possessions of an Indian,

including his dwelling, to be destroyed at the time of his death.

In recent times this custom has had the tendency, as among the

Navahos, for example, to cause them to adhere to their simple

aboriginal form of dwellings instead of to go to the trouble of

erecting substantial houses that might have to be demolished.

The natives took me to cure many others who were sick of a stupor,

and presented me two more baskets of prickly pears, which I gave to

the Indians who accompanied us. We then went back to our lodgings.

Those to whom we gave the fruit tarried, and returned at night to

their houses, reporting that he who had been dead and for whom I

wrought before them, had got up whole and walked, had eaten and

spoken with them and that all to whom I had ministered were well and

much pleased. This caused great wonder and fear, and throughout the

land the people talked of nothing else. All to whom the fame of it

reached, came to seek us that we should cure them and bless their

children.

When the Cuthalchuches, who were in company with our Indians, were

about to return to their own country, they left us all the prickly

pears they had, without keeping one: they gave us flints of very

high value there, a palm and a half in length, with which they cut.

They begged that we would remember them and pray to God that they

might always be well, and we promised to do so. They left, the most

satisfied beings in the world, having given us the best of all they

had.

We remained with the Avavares eight months, reckoned by the number

of moons. In all this time people came to seek us from many parts,

and they said that most truly we were children of the sun. Dorantes

and the negro to this time had not attempted to practise; but because

of the great solicitation made by those coming from different parts

to find us, we all became physicians, although in being venturous

and bold to attempt the performance of any cure, I was the most

remarkable. No one whom we treated, but told us he was left well;

and so great was the confidence that they would become healed if we

administered to them, they even believed that whilst we remained none

of them could die. These and the rest of the people behind, related

an extraordinary circumstance, and by the way they counted, there

appeared to be fifteen or sixteen years since it occurred.

They said that a man wandered through the country whom they called

Badthing; he was small of body and wore beard, and they never

distinctly saw his features. When he came to the house where they

lived, their hair stood up and they trembled. Presently a blazing

torch shone at the door, when he entered and seized whom he chose,

and giving him three great gashes in the side with a very sharp

flint, the width of the hand and two palms in length, he put his

hand through them, drawing forth the entrails, from one of which

he would cut off a portion more or less, the length of a palm, and

throw it on the embers. Then he would give three gashes to an arm,

the second cut on the inside of an elbow, and would sever the limb.

A little after this, he would begin to unite it, and putting his

hands on the wounds, these would instantly become healed. They said

that frequently in the dance he appeared among them, sometimes in the

dress of a woman, at others in that of a man; that when it pleased

him he would take a buhío,[144] or house, and lifting it high, after

a little he would come down with it in a heavy fall. They also stated

that many times they offered him victuals, but that he never ate:

they asked him whence he came and where was his abiding place, and

he showed them a fissure in the earth and said that his house was

there below. These things they told us of, we much laughed at and

ridiculed; and they seeing our incredulity, brought to us many of

those they said he had seized; and we saw the marks of the gashes

made in the places according to the manner they had described. We

told them he was an evil one, and in the best way we could, gave

them to understand, that if they would believe in God our Lord, and

become Christians like us, they need have no fear of him, nor would

he dare to come and inflict those injuries, and they might be certain

he would not venture to appear while we remained in the land. At this

they were delighted and lost much of their dread. They told us that

they had seen the Asturian and Figueroa with people farther along the

coast, whom we had called those of the figs.[145]

[144] See page 19, note 5.

[145] See chap. 26.

They are all ignorant of time, either by the sun or moon, nor do they

reckon by the month or year; they better know and understand the

differences of the seasons, when the fruits come to ripen, where the

fish resort,[146] and the position of the stars, at which they are

ready and practised. By these we were ever well treated. We dug our

own food and brought our loads of wood and water. Their houses and

also the things we ate, are like those of the nation from which we

came, but they suffer far greater want, having neither maize, acorns,

nor nuts. We always went naked like them, and covered ourselves at

night with deer-skins.

[146] Buckingham Smith prefers this meaning for _i en tiempo que

muere el Pescado_ to "by the time when the fish die," or "at

times at which the fishes die."

Of the eight months we were among this people, six we supported in

great want, for fish are not to be found where they are. At the

expiration of the time, the prickly pears began to ripen,[147] and

I and the negro went, without these Indians knowing it, to others

farther on, a day's journey distant, called Maliacones.[148] At

the end of three days, I sent him to bring Castillo and Dorantes,

and they having arrived, we all set out with the Indians who

were going to get the small fruit of certain trees on which they

support themselves ten or twelve days whilst the prickly pears are

maturing. They joined others called Arbadaos,[149] whom we found to

be very weak, lank, and swollen, so much so as to cause us great

astonishment. We told those with whom we came, that we wished to stop

with these people, at which they showed regret and went back by the

way they came; so we remained in the field near the houses of the

Indians, which when they observed, after talking among themselves

they came up together, and each of them taking one of us by the hand,

led us to their dwellings. Among them we underwent greater hunger

than with the others; we ate daily not more than two handfuls of the

prickly pears, which were green and so milky they burned our mouths.

As there was lack of water, those who ate suffered great thirst. In

our extreme want we bought two dogs, giving in exchange some nets,

with other things, and a skin I used to cover myself.

[147] That is, until the summer of 1535.

[148] See ch. 27: "By the coast live those called Quitoks, and in

front inward on the main are the Chavavares, to whom adjoin the

Maliacones, the Cultalchulches and others called Susolas and the

Comos." This would seem to indicate that he was journeying in a

generally northward or north-westward direction.

[149] The name suggests the Bidai, a Caddoan tribe that lived at

a later period west of the Trinity, about latitude 31°, but this

locality does not agree with the narrative.

I have already stated that throughout all this country we went naked,

and as we were unaccustomed to being so, twice a year we cast our

skins like serpents. The sun and air produced great sores on our

breasts and shoulders, giving us sharp pain; and the large loads we

had, being very heavy, caused the cords to cut into our arms. The

country is so broken and thickset, that often after getting our wood

in the forests, the blood flowed from us in many places, caused by

the obstruction of thorns and shrubs that tore our flesh wherever

we went. At times, when my turn came to get wood, after it had cost

me much blood, I could not bring it out either on my back or by

dragging. In these labors my only solace and relief were in thinking

of the sufferings of our Redeemer, Jesus Christ, and in the blood

He shed for me, in considering how much greater must have been the

torment He sustained from the thorns, than that I there received.

I bartered with these Indians in combs that I made for them and

in bows, arrows, and nets. We made mats, which are their houses,

that they have great necessity for; and although they know how to

make them, they wish to give their full time to getting food, since

when otherwise employed they are pinched with hunger. Sometimes the

Indians would set me to scraping and softening skins; and the days of

my greatest prosperity there, were those in which they gave me skins

to dress. I would scrape them a very great deal and eat the scraps,

which would sustain me two or three days. When it happened among

these people, as it had likewise among others whom we left behind,

that a piece of meat was given us, we ate it raw; for if we had put

it to roast, the first native that should come along would have taken

it off and devoured it; and it appeared to us not well to expose it

to this risk; besides we were in such condition it would have given

us pain to eat it roasted, and we could not have digested it so well

as raw. Such was the life we spent there; and the meagre subsistence

we earned by the matters of traffic which were the work of our hands.

Chapter 23

_Of our departure after having eaten the dogs._

After eating the dogs, it seemed to us we had some strength to go

forward; and so commending ourselves to God our Lord, that He would

guide us, we took our leave of the Indians. They showed us the way

to others, near by, who spoke their language. While on our journey,

rain fell, and we travelled the day in wet. We lost our way and went

to stop in an extensive wood. We pulled many leaves of the prickly

pear, which we put at night in an oven we made, and giving them much

heat, by the morning they were in readiness. After eating, we put

ourselves under the care of the Almighty and started. We discovered

the way we had lost. Having passed the wood, we found other houses,

and coming up to them, we saw two women with some boys walking in the

forest, who were frightened at the sight of us and fled, running into

the woods to call the men. These arriving, stopped behind trees to

look at us. We called to them, and they came up with much timidity.

After some conversation they told us that food was very scarce with

them; that near by were many houses of their people to which they

would guide us. We came at night where were fifty dwellings. The

inhabitants were astonished at our appearance, showing much fear.

After becoming somewhat accustomed to us, they reached their hands to

our faces and bodies, and passed them in like manner over their own.

We stayed there that night, and in the morning the Indians brought us

their sick, beseeching us that we would bless them. They gave us of

what they had to eat, the leaves of the prickly pear and the green

fruit roasted. As they did this with kindness and good will, and were

happy to be without anything to eat, that they might have food to

give us, we tarried some days. While there, others came from beyond,

and when they were about to depart, we told our entertainers that we

wished to go with those people. They felt much uneasiness at this,

and pressed us warmly to stay: however, we took our leave in the

midst of their weeping, for our departure weighed heavily upon them.

Chapter 24

_Customs of the Indians of that country._

From the Island of Malhado to this land, all the Indians whom we saw

have the custom from the time in which their wives find themselves

pregnant, of not sleeping with them until two years after they have

given birth. The children are suckled until the age of twelve years,

when they are old enough to get support for themselves. We asked

why they reared them in this manner; and they said because of the

great poverty of the land, it happened many times, as we witnessed,

that they were two or three days without eating, sometimes four, and

consequently, in seasons of scarcity, the children were allowed to

suckle, that they might not famish; otherwise those who lived would

be delicate, having little strength.

If any one chance to fall sick in the desert, and cannot keep up

with the rest, the Indians leave him to perish, unless it be a son

or a brother; him they will assist, even to carrying on their back.

It is common among them all to leave their wives when there is no

conformity, and directly they connect themselves with whom they

please. This is the course of the men who are childless; those who

have children remain with their wives and never abandon them. When

they dispute and quarrel in their towns, they strike each other with

the fists, fighting until exhausted, and then separate. Sometimes

they are parted by the women going between them; the men never

interfere. For no disaffection that arises do they resort to bows and

arrows. After they have fought, or had out their dispute, they take

their dwellings and go into the woods, living apart from each other

until their heat has subsided. When no longer offended and their

anger is gone, they return. From that time they are friends as if

nothing had happened; nor is it necessary that any one should mend

their friendships, as they in this way again unite them. If those

that quarrel are single, they go to some neighboring people, and

although these should be enemies, they receive them well and welcome

them warmly, giving them so largely of what they have, that when

their animosity cools, and they return to their town, they go rich.

They are all warlike, and have as much strategy for protecting

themselves against enemies as they could have were they reared in

Italy in continual feuds. When they are in a part of the country

where their enemies may attack them, they place their houses on the

skirt of a wood, the thickest and most tangled they can find, and

near it make a ditch in which they sleep. The warriors are covered

by small pieces of stick through which are loop-holes; these hide

them and present so false an appearance, that if come upon they

are not discovered. They open a very narrow way, entering into the

midst of the wood, where a spot is prepared on which the women and

children sleep. When night comes they kindle fires in their lodges,

that should spies be about, they may think to find them there; and

before daybreak they again light those fires. If the enemy comes to

assault the houses, they who are in the ditch make a sally; and from

their trenches do much injury without those who are outside seeing

or being able to find them. When there is no wood in which they can

take shelter in this way, and make their ambuscades, they settle on

open ground at a place they select, which they invest with trenches

covered with broken sticks, having apertures whence to discharge

arrows. These arrangements are made for night.

While I was among the Aguenes,[150] their enemies coming suddenly

at midnight, fell upon them, killed three and wounded many, so that

they ran from their houses to the fields before them. As soon as

these ascertained that their assailants had withdrawn, they returned

to pick up all the arrows the others had shot, and following after

them in the most stealthy manner possible, came that night to their

dwellings without their presence being suspected. At four o'clock

in the morning the Aguenes attacked them, killed five, and wounded

numerous others, and made them flee from their houses, leaving their

bows with all they possessed. In a little while came the wives of the

Quevenes[151] to them and formed a treaty whereby the parties became

friends. The women, however, are sometimes the cause of war. All

these nations, when they have personal enmities, and are not of one

family, assassinate at night, waylay, and inflict gross barbarities

on each other.

[150] Elsewhere called Doguenes.

[151] Guevenes in the edition of 1542.

Chapter 25

_Vigilance of the Indians in war._

They are the most watchful in danger of any people I ever knew. If

they fear an enemy they are awake the night long, each with a bow

at his side and a dozen arrows. He that would sleep tries his bow,

and if it is not strung, he gives the turn necessary to the cord.

They often come out from their houses, bending to the ground in such

manner that they cannot be seen, looking and watching on all sides to

catch every object. If they perceive anything about, they are at once

in the bushes with their bows and arrows, and there remain until day,

running from place to place where it is needful to be, or where they

think their enemies are. When the light has come, they unbend their

bows until they go out to hunt. The strings are the sinews of deer.

The method they have of fighting, is bending low to the earth, and

whilst shot at they move about, speaking and leaping from one point

to another, thus avoiding the shafts of their enemies. So effectual

is their manoeuvring that they can receive very little injury from

crossbow or arquebus; they rather scoff at them; for these arms are

of little value employed in open field, where the Indians move

nimbly about. They are proper for defiles and in water; everywhere

else the horse will best subdue, being what the natives universally

dread.[152] Whosoever would fight them must be cautious to show no

fear, or desire to have anything that is theirs; while war exists

they must be treated with the utmost rigor; for if they discover

any timidity or covetousness, they are a race that well discern the

opportunities for vengeance, and gather strength from any weakness of

their adversaries. When they use arrows in battle and exhaust their

store, each returns his own way, without the one party following the

other, although the one be many and the other few, such being their

custom. Oftentimes the body of an Indian is traversed by the arrow;

yet unless the entrails or the heart be struck, he does not die but

recovers from the wound.

[152] Cabeza de Vaca is now evidently recalling the experience of

Narvaez's men in Florida.

I believe these people see and hear better, and have keener senses

than any other in the world. They are great in hunger, thirst, and

cold, as if they were made for the endurance of these more than other

men, by habit and nature.

Thus much I have wished to say, beyond the gratification of that

desire men have to learn the customs and manners of each other,

that those who hereafter at some time find themselves amongst these

people, may have knowledge of their usages and artifices, the value

of which they will not find inconsiderable in such event.

Chapter 26

_Of the nations and tongues._

I desire to enumerate the natives and tongues that exist from those

of Malhado to the farthest Cuchendados there are. Two languages are

found in the island; the people of one are called Cahoques,[153]

of the other, Han. On the tierra-firme, over against the island,

is another people, called Chorruco, who take their names from the

forests where they live. Advancing by the shores of the sea, others

inhabit who are called the Doguenes, and opposite them others by

the name of Mendica. Farther along the coast are the Quevenes, and

in front of them on the main, the Mariames; and continuing by the

coast are other called Guaycones; and in front of them, within on

the main, the Yguazes. At the close of these are the Atayos; and in

their rear others, the Acubadaos, and beyond them are many in the

same direction. By the coast live those called Quitoks, and in front

inward on the main are the Chavavares, to whom adjoin the Maliacones,

the Cultalchulches and others called Susolas, and the Comos; and

by the coast farther on are the Camoles; and on the same coast in

advance are those whom we called People of the Figs.

[153] In the 1542 edition these tribal names are similarly

spelled except in the case of Capoques, Charruco, Deguenes,

Yeguaces, Decubadaos (for Acubadaos), Quitoles (for Quitoks),

Chauauares, and Camolas. None of these Indians have thus far been

conclusively identified with later historical tribes, with the

possible exception of the Atayos and the Quevenes. See p. 76,

note 2, and p. 59, note 1.

They all differ in their habitations, towns and tongues. There is a

language in which calling to a person, for "look here" they say "Arre

aca," and to a dog "Xo."[154] Everywhere they produce stupefaction

with a smoke, and for that they will give whatever they possess.

They drink a tea made from leaves of a tree like those of the oak,

which they toast in a pot; and after these are parched, the vessel,

still remaining on the fire, is filled with water. When the liquor

has twice boiled, they pour it into a jar, and in cooling it use the

half of a gourd. So soon as it is covered thickly with froth, it is

drunk as warm as can be supported; and from the time it is taken

out of the pot until it is used they are crying aloud: "Who wishes

to drink?" When the women hear these cries, they instantly stop,

fearing to move; and although they may be heavily laden, they dare do

nothing further. Should one of them move, they dishonor her, beating

her with sticks, and greatly vexed, throw away the liquor they have

prepared; while they who have drunk eject it, which they do readily

and without pain. The reason they give for this usage is, that when

they are about to drink, if the women move from where they hear the

cry, something pernicious enters the body in that liquid, shortly

producing death. At the time of boiling, the vessel must be covered;

and if it should happen to be open when a woman passes, they use no

more of that liquid, but throw it out. The color is yellow. They are

three days taking it, eating nothing in the time, and daily each one

drinks an arroba and a half.[155]

[154] In the 1542 edition, as given by Mrs. Bandelier, "Among

them is a language wherein they call men _mira aca_, _arraca_,

and dogs _xo_." Compare _háka_, "sit down," in Karankawa

(Gatschet, _Karankawa Indians_, Cambridge, Mass., 1891, p. 80).

In the above it would appear as if the Spanish _mira_ had been

regarded as a part of the Indian exclamation.

[155] The tree from which the so-called "black drink" is made

is _Ilex cassine_, and the custom of preparing and partaking

of the liquid (known also as Carolina tea) was general among

the tribes of the South, including the Gulf coast. The drink

was known among the Catawbas as _yaupon_, among the Creeks as

_ássi-lupútski_, the latter signifying "small leaves," commonly

abbreviated _ássi_, whence the name of the celebrated Seminole

chief _Osceola_, _i.e._, "Black-drink Hallooer," or "Black-drink

Singer." The partaking of the black drink was an important part

of the _puskita_, or _busk_, ceremony among the Creeks.

When the women have their indisposition, they seek food only for

themselves, as no one else will eat of what they bring. In the time I

was thus among these people, I witnessed a diabolical practice; a man

living with another, one of those who are emasculate and impotent.

These go habited like women, and perform their duties, use the bow,

and carry heavy loads. Among them we saw many mutilated in the way

I describe. They are more muscular than other men, and taller: they

bear very weighty burthens.

Chapter 27

_We moved away and were well received._

After parting with those we left weeping,[156] we went with the

others to their houses and were hospitably received by the people

in them. They brought their children to us that we might touch their

hands, and gave us a great quantity of the flour of mezquiquez.[157]

The fruit while hanging on the tree, is very bitter and like unto the

carob; when eaten with earth it is sweet and wholesome. The method

they have of preparing it is this: they make a hole of requisite

depth in the ground, and throwing in the fruit, pound it with a club

the size of the leg, a fathom and a half in length, until it is well

mashed. Besides the earth that comes from the hole, they bring and

add some handfuls, then returning to beat it a little while longer.

Afterward it is thrown into a jar, like a basket, upon which water is

poured until it rises above and covers the mixture. He that beats it

tastes it, and if it appears to him not sweet, he asks for earth to

stir in, which is added until he finds it sweet. Then all sit round,

and each putting in a hand, takes out as much as he can. The pits

and hulls are thrown upon a skin, whence they are taken by him who

does the pounding, and put into the jar whereon water is poured as at

first, whence having expressed the froth and juice, again the pits

and husks are thrown upon the skin. This they do three or four times

to each pounding. Those present, for whom this is a great banquet,

have their stomachs greatly distended by the earth and water they

swallow. The Indians made a protracted festival of this sort on our

account, and great _areitos_[158] during the time we remained.

[156] The Arbadaos or Acubadaos. See chs. 22, 23.

[157] The mesquite (_Prosopis juliflora_). The beans are still

extensively used as food by the Indians of southern Arizona and

northern Mexico.

[158] See p. 52, note 3.

When we proposed to leave them, some women of another people came

there who lived farther along. They informed us whereabout were

their dwellings, and we set out for them, although the inhabitants

entreated us to remain for that day, because the houses whither we

were going were distant, there was no path to them, the women had

come tired, and would the next day go with us refreshed and show us

the way. Soon after we had taken our leave, some of the women, who

had come on together from the same town, followed behind us. As

there are no paths in the country we presently got lost, and thus

travelled four leagues, when, stopping to drink, we found the women

in pursuit of us at the water, who told us of the great exertion

they had made to overtake us. We went on taking them for guides,

and passed over a river towards evening, the water reaching to the

breast. It might be as wide as that at Seville; its current was very

rapid.[159]

[159] Probably the Colorado River. Buckingham Smith remarks that

the Guadalquivir at Seville is about a hundred paces in width.

At sunset we reached a hundred Indian habitations. Before we arrived,

all the people who were in them came out to receive us, with such

yells as were terrific, striking the palms of their hands violently

against their thighs. They brought us gourds bored with holes

and having pebbles in them, an instrument for the most important

occasions, produced only at the dance or to effect cures, and which

none dare touch but those who own them. They say there is virtue in

them, and because they do not grow in that country, they come from

heaven; nor do they know where they are to be found, only that the

rivers bring them in their floods.[160] So great were the fear and

distraction of these people, some to reach us sooner than others that

they might touch us, they pressed us so closely that they lacked

little of killing us; and without letting us put our feet to the

ground, carried us to their dwellings. We were so crowded upon by

numbers, that we went into the houses they had made for us. On no

account would we consent that they should rejoice over us any more

that night. The night long they passed in singing and dancing among

themselves; and the next day they brought us all the people of the

town, that we should touch and bless them in the way we had done to

others among whom we had been. After this performance they presented

many arrows to some women of the other town who had accompanied

theirs.

[160] The Pueblo Indians of New Mexico have cultivated gourds for

use as rattles and receptacles, especially dippers, from time

immemorial. If the Pecos were the stream, or one of the streams,

whence the gourds were derived, they might have come from the

pueblo of Pecos, southeast of the present Santa Fé; if from the

Rio Grande, they might have come from various villages along that

river and its tributaries in the north. See p. 95, note 1.

The next day we left, and all the people of the place went with us;

and when we came to the other Indians we were as well received as

we had been by the last. They gave us of what they had to eat, and

the deer they had killed that day. Among them we witnessed another

custom, which is this: they who were with us took from him who came

to be cured, his bow and arrows, shoes and beads if he wore any, and

then brought him before us, that we should heal him. After being

attended to, he would go away highly pleased, saying that he was

well. So we parted from these Indians, and went to others by whom we

were welcomed. They brought us their sick, which, we having blessed,

they declared were sound; he who was healed, believed we could cure

him; and with what the others to whom we had administered would

relate, they made great rejoicing and dancing, so that they left us

no sleep.

Chapter 28

_Of another strange custom._

Leaving these Indians, we went to the dwellings of numerous others.

From this place began another novel custom, which is, that while

the people received us very well, those who accompanied us began to

use them so ill as to take their goods and ransack their houses,

without leaving anything. To witness this unjust procedure gave us

great concern, inflicted too on those who received us hospitably;

we feared also that it might provoke offence, and be the cause of

some tumult between them; but, as we were in no condition to make it

better, or to dare chastise such conduct, for the present we had to

bear with it, until a time when we might have greater authority among

them. They, also, who lost their effects, noticing our dejection,

attempted to console us by saying that we should not be grieved on

this account, as they were so gratified at having seen us, they held

their properties to be well bestowed, and that farther on they would

be repaid by others who were very rich.

On all the day's travel we received great inconvenience from the many

persons following us. Had we attempted to escape we could not have

succeeded, such was their haste in pursuit, in order to touch us. So

great was the importunity for this privilege, we consumed three hours

in going through with them that they might depart. The next day all

the inhabitants were brought before us. The greater part were clouded

of an eye, and others in like manner were entirely blind, which

caused in us great astonishment. They are a people of fine figure,

agreeable features, and whiter than any of the many nations we had

seen until then.

Here we began to see mountains; they appeared to come in succession

from the North Sea, and, according to the information the Indians

gave us, we believe they rise fifteen leagues from the sea.[161] We

set forth in a direction towards them with these Indians, and they

guided us by the way of some kindred of theirs; for they wished to

take us only where were their relations, and were not willing that

their enemies should come to such great good, as they thought it

was to see us. After we arrived they that went with us plundered

the others; but as the people there knew the fashion, they had

hidden some things before we came; and having welcomed us with great

festivity and rejoicing, they brought out and presented to us what

they had concealed. These were beads, ochre, and some little bags of

silver.[162] In pursuance of custom, we directly gave them to the

Indians who came with us, which, when they had received, they began

their dances and festivities, sending to call others from a town near

by, that they also might see us.

[161] Probably the escarpment that extends from Austin to Eagle

Pass. The Colorado (which was probably the wide, deep stream

previously encountered) was crossed seemingly below the present

Austin. It should be remembered that the information regarding

the point at which the mountains commenced to rise was given by

Indians whose language the Spaniards could not understand. At any

rate, the fact that the latter believed the mountains to rise

fifteen leagues from the sea would tend to indicate that the

direction they had been following was a northerly one. See the

statement in the following paragraph of the text.

[162] According to Oviedo (p. 617): "This is an error of the

printer, and should read 'little bags of margarite [pearl-mica],'

instead of silver." Buckingham Smith translates Oviedo's

_margarita_, "pearls," and Cabeza de Vaca's _margarita_ (ch. 29)

as "marquesite." It may be added that magnetic iron ore of the

highest quality occurs in Mason County, Texas.

In the afternoon they all came and brought us beads and bows, with

trifles of other sort, which we also distributed. Desiring to leave

the next day, the inhabitants all wished to take us to others,

friends of theirs, who were at the point of the ridge, stating that

many houses were there, and people who would give us various things.

As it was out of our way, we did not wish to go to them, and took

our course along the plain near the mountains, which we believed

not to be distant from the coast[163] where the people are all evil

disposed, and we considered it preferable to travel inland;[164]

for those of the interior are of a better condition and treated

us mildly, and we felt sure that we should find it more populous

and better provisioned. Moreover, we chose this course because in

traversing the country we should learn many particulars of it, so

that should God our Lord be pleased to take any of us thence, and

lead us to the land of Christians, we might carry that information

and news of it. As the Indians saw that we were determined not to go

where they would take us, they said that in the direction we would

go, there were no inhabitants, nor any prickly pears nor other thing

to eat, and begged us to tarry there that day; we accordingly did

so. They directly sent two of their number to seek for people in the

direction that we wished to go; and the next day we left, taking

with us several of the Indians. The women went carrying water, and

so great was our authority that no one dared drink of it without our

permission.

[163] In the face of such an assertion it is difficult to

conceive that the Spaniards had been journeying directly

westward, away from the coast.

[164] That is, they decided to change their course from northward

to a more westward direction.

Two leagues from there we met those who had gone out, and they

said that they had found no one; at which the Indians seemed

much disheartened, and began again to entreat us to go by way

of the mountains. We did not wish to do so, and they, seeing our

disposition, took their leave of us with much regret, and returned

down the river to their houses, while we ascended along by it. After

a little time we came upon two women with burthens, who put them down

as they saw us, and brought to us, of what they carried. It was the

flour of maize. They told us that farther up on that river we should

find dwellings, a plenty of prickly pears and of that meal. We bade

them farewell: they were going to those whom we had left.

We walked until sunset, and arrived at a town of some twenty houses,

where we were received with weeping and in great sorrow; for they

already knew that wheresoever we should come, all would be pillaged

and spoiled by those who accompanied us. When they saw that we were

alone, they lost their fear, and gave us prickly pears with nothing

more. We remained there that night, and at dawn, the Indians who had

left us the day before, broke upon their houses. As they came upon

the occupants unprepared and in supposed safety, having no place in

which to conceal anything, all they possessed was taken from them,

for which they wept much. In consolation the plunderers told them

that we were children of the sun and that we had power to heal the

sick and to destroy; and other lies even greater than these, which

none knew how to tell better than they when they find it convenient.

They bade them conduct us with great respect, advised that they

should be careful to offend us in nothing, give us all they might

possess, and endeavor to take us where people were numerous; and that

wheresoever they arrived with us, they should rob and pillage the

people of what they have, since this was customary.

Chapter 29

_The Indians plunder each other._

After the Indians had told and shown these natives well what to do,

they left us together and went back. Remembering the instruction,

they began to treat us with the same awe and reverence that the

others had shown. We travelled with them three days, and they took us

where were many inhabitants. Before we arrived, these were informed

of our coming by the others, who told them respecting us all that

the first had imparted, adding much more; for these people are all

very fond of romance, and are great liars, particularly so where they

have any interest. When we came near the houses all the inhabitants

ran out with delight and great festivity to receive us. Among other

things, two of their physicians gave us two gourds, and thenceforth

we carried these with us, and added to our authority a token highly

reverenced by Indians.[165] Those who accompanied us rifled the

houses; but as these were many and the others few, they could not

carry off what they took, and abandoned more than the half.

[165] The possession of one of these "medicine" rattles was not

improbably one of the causes of the death of Estévanico at the

hands of the Zuñis of Cibola in 1539. See the Introduction, and

compare p. 90, note 2; p. 117, note 2.

From here we went along the base of the ridge, striking inland more

than fifty leagues, and at the close we found upwards of forty

houses. Among the articles given us, Andrés Dorantes received a

hawk-bell of copper, thick and large, figured with a face, which the

natives had shown, greatly prizing it. They told him that they had

received it from others, their neighbors; we asked them whence the

others had obtained it, and they said it had been brought from the

northern direction, where there was much copper, which was highly

esteemed. We concluded that whencesoever it came there was a foundry,

and that work was done in hollow form.[166]

[166] See p. 97, note 1.

We departed the next day, and traversed a ridge seven leagues in

extent. The stones on it are scoria of iron.[167] At night we arrived

at many houses seated on the banks of a very beautiful river.[168]

The owners of them came half way out on the road to meet us,

bringing their children on their backs. They gave us many little bags

of margarite[169] and pulverized galena,[170] with which they rub the

face. They presented us many beads, and blankets of cowhide, loading

all who accompanied us with some of every thing they had. They eat

prickly pears and the seed of pine. In that country are small pine

trees,[171] the cones like little eggs; but the seed is better than

that of Castile, as its husk is very thin, and while green is beaten

and made into balls, to be thus eaten. If the seed be dry, it is

pounded in the husk, and consumed in the form of flour.

[167] See pp. 92-93, note 2, regarding the occurrence of magnetic

iron in Mason County, where it is found in great quantities, but

is yet unworked.

[168] Perhaps the Llano, a branch of the Colorado, or possibly

they had met the Colorado again. See p. 90, note 1.

[169] See p. 92, note 2. In the edition of 1542 the text here

says _silver_.

[170] Lead is found in Texas in the trans-Pecos region. The

mineral resources of the state have not yet been well exploited.

[171] Doubtless the nut pine (_Pinus edulis_). Cabeza de Vaca

evidently here aims to describe the character of this tree and

its fruit without necessarily asserting that the tree was found

growing very far east of the Pecos. In the valley of the latter

stream it is more or less prolific.

Those who there received us, after they had touched us went running

to their houses and directly returned, and did not stop running,

going and coming, to bring us in this manner many things for support

on the way. They fetched a man to me and stated that a long time

since he had been wounded by an arrow in the right shoulder, and

that the point of the shaft was lodged above his heart, which, he

said, gave him much pain, and in consequence, he was always sick.

Probing the wound I felt the arrow-head, and found it had passed

through the cartilage. With a knife I carried, I opened the breast

to the place, and saw the point was aslant and troublesome to take

out. I continued to cut, and, putting in the point of the knife, at

last with great difficulty I drew the head forth. It was very large.

With the bone of a deer, and by virtue of my calling, I made two

stitches that threw the blood over me, and with hair from a skin I

stanched the flow. They asked me for the arrow-head after I had taken

it out, which I gave, when the whole town came to look at it. They

sent it into the back country that the people there might view it.

In consequence of this operation they had many of their customary

dances and festivities. The next day I cut the two stitches and the

Indian was well. The wound I made appeared only like a seam in the

palm of the hand. He said he felt no pain or sensitiveness in it

whatsoever. This cure gave us control throughout the country in all

that the inhabitants had power, or deemed of any value, or cherished.

We showed them the hawk-bell we brought, and they told us that in

the place whence that had come, were buried many plates of the same

material; it was a thing they greatly esteemed, and where it came

from were fixed habitations.[172] The country we considered to be on

the South Sea, which we had ever understood to be richer than the one

of the North.

[172] The allusion is probably to Mexico rather than to a

northern country, as previously asserted by the Indians. See the

second preceding paragraph.

We left there, and travelled through so many sorts of people, of

such diverse languages, the memory fails to recall them. They ever

plundered each other, and those that lost, like those that gained,

were fully content.[173] We drew so many followers that we had not

use for their services. While on our way through these vales, every

Indian carried a club three palms in length, and kept on the alert.

On raising a hare, which animals are abundant, they surround it

directly and throw numerous clubs at it with astonishing precision.

Thus they cause it to run from one to another; so that, according to

my thinking, it is the most pleasing sport which can be imagined,

as oftentimes the animal runs into the hand. So many did they give

us that at night when we stopped we had eight or ten back-loads

apiece.[174] Those having bows were not with us; they dispersed about

the ridge in pursuit of deer; and at dark came bringing five or six

for each of us, besides quail, and other game. Indeed, whatever

they either killed or found, was put before us, without themselves

daring to take anything until we had blessed it, though they should

be expiring of hunger, they having so established the rule, since

marching with us.

[173] Of this exchange of gifts, or perhaps we may call it

plunder, there was an echo a few years later, when Coronado and

his army were traversing the eastern part of the Staked Plain,

under the guidance of the "Turk," in search of Quivira, in 1541.

Before sending the army back, and while among the ravines of

western Texas, Rodrigo Maldonado was sent forward to explore, and

in four days reached a deep ravine in the bottom of which was a

village that Cabeza de Vaca had visited, on which account (see

p. 332) "they presented Don Rodrigo with a pile of tanned skins

and other things." An unfair distribution being threatened, the

men rushed upon the skins and took possession without further

ado. "The women and some others were left crying, because they

thought that the strangers were not going to take anything, but

would bless them as Cabeza de Vaca and Dorantes had done _when

they passed through here_." Captain Jaramillo does not mention

this occurrence in his narrative (_Fourteenth Report of the

Bureau of American Ethnology_, p. 588), but he speaks of reaching

a settlement of Indians, in advance of that, according to the

narrations, of which Castañeda speaks, "among whom there was an

old blind man with a beard, who gave us to understand by signs

which he made, that he had seen four others like us many days

before, whom he had seen near there and rather more toward New

Spain [Mexico], and we so understood him, and presumed that it

was Dorantes and Cabeza de Vaca and those whom I have mentioned."

Although we do not have here conclusive evidence that Cabeza de

Vaca actually visited the village or villages mentioned, there is

no question that he must have been in this vicinity, and as the

evidence is strong that the Rio Colorado was the ravined stream

alluded to, there is little likelihood that Cabeza de Vaca's

route lay far below that river.

[174] The Pueblo Indians of New Mexico have similar communal

rabbit-hunts, in which the animals are killed with a curved stick

shaped somewhat like a boomerang.

The women carried many mats, of which the men made us houses, each of

us having a separate one, with all his attendants. After these were

put up, we ordered the deer and hares to be roasted, with the rest

that had been taken. This was done by means of certain ovens made for

the purpose. Of each we took a little and the remainder we gave to

the principal personage of the people coming with us, directing him

to divide it among the rest. Every one brought his portion to us,

that we might breathe upon and give it our benediction; for not until

then did they dare eat any of it. Frequently we were accompanied by

three or four thousand persons, and as we had to breathe upon and

sanctify the food and drink for each, and grant permission to do the

many things they would come to ask, it may be seen how great was the

annoyance. The women first brought us prickly pears, spiders, worms,

and whatever else they could gather; for even were they famishing,

they would eat nothing unless we gave it them.

In company with these, we crossed a great river coming from the

north,[175] and passing over some plains thirty leagues in extent,

we found many persons coming a long distance to receive us, who met

us on the road over which we were to travel, and welcomed us in the

manner of those we had left.

[175] Evidently the Pecos. This is the first stream mentioned as

flowing from the north.

Chapter 30

_The fashion of receiving us changes._

From this place was another method of receiving us, as respects the

pillage. Those who came out in the ways to bring us presents were not

plundered; but on our coming into their houses, themselves offered us

all they had, as well as the houses. We gave the things to the chief

personages who accompanied us, that they should divide them; those

who were despoiled always followed us until coming to a populous

country, where they might repair their loss. They would tell those

among whom we came, to retain everything and make no concealment,

as nothing could be done without our knowledge, and we might cause

them to die, as the sun revealed everything to us. So great was their

fear that during the first days they were with us, they continually

trembled, without daring even to speak, or raise their eyes to the

heavens. They guided us through more than fifty leagues of desert,

over rough mountains, which being dry were without game, and in

consequence we suffered much from hunger.[176]

[176] Eighty leagues would probably be a reasonable estimate

of the distance from the Pecos to the Rio Grande, which the

travellers had now reached. It would seem strange that no mention

is made of the cañon of the latter stream (which hereabouts flows

through a territory four thousand feet above sea level), were

it not for the fact that they had become thoroughly inured to

suffering and hard travelling; nevertheless, the terribly rough

country through which they had just been guided from stream to

stream is commented on, while the fact that the Rio Grande here

"flows between some ridges" is mentioned farther on.

At the termination we forded a very large river, the water coming up

to our breasts. From this place, many of the people began to sicken

from the great privation and labor they had undergone in the passage

of those ridges, which are sterile and difficult in the extreme. They

conducted us to certain plains at the base of the mountains, where

people came to meet us from a great distance, and received us as the

last had done, and gave so many goods to those who came with us, that

the half were left because they could not be carried. I told those

who gave, to resume the goods that they might not lie there and be

lost; but they answered they could in no wise do so, as it was not

their custom after they had bestowed a thing to take it back;[177] so

considering the articles no longer of value, they were left to perish.

[177] An assertion quite contrary to the popular belief in

"Indian gifts."

We told these people that we desired to go where the sun sets; and

they said inhabitants in that direction were remote. We commanded

them to send and make known our coming; but they strove to excuse

themselves the best they could, the people being their enemies, and

they did not wish to go to them. Not daring to disobey, however,

they sent two women, one of their own, the other a captive from that

people; for the women can negotiate even though there be war. We

followed them, and stopped at a place where we agreed to wait. They

tarried five days; and the Indians said they could not have found

anybody.

We told them to conduct us towards the north; and they answered, as

before, that except afar off there were no people in that direction,

and nothing to eat, nor could water be found.[178] Notwithstanding

all this, we persisted, and said we desired to go in that course.

They still tried to excuse themselves in the best manner possible.

At this we became offended, and one night I went out to sleep in

the woods apart from them; but directly they came to where I was,

and remained all night without sleep, talking to me in great fear,

telling me how terrified they were, beseeching us to be no longer

angry, and said that they would lead us in the direction it was our

wish to go, though they knew they should die on the way.

[178] The Indians were evidently endeavoring to compel the

Spaniards to remain among them as long as possible.

Whilst we still feigned to be displeased lest their fright should

leave them, a remarkable circumstance happened, which was that on the

same day many of the Indians became ill, and the next day eight men

died. Abroad in the country, wheresoever this became known, there was

such dread that it seemed as if the inhabitants would die of fear at

sight of us. They besought us not to remain angered, nor require that

more of them should die. They believed we caused their death by only

willing it, when in truth it gave us so much pain that it could not

be greater; for, beyond their loss, we feared they might all die, or

abandon us of fright, and that other people thenceforward would do

the same, seeing what had come to these. We prayed to God, our Lord,

to relieve them; and from that time the sick began to get better.

We witnessed one thing with great admiration, that the parents,

brothers, and wives of those who died had great sympathy for them

in their suffering; but, when dead, they showed no feeling, neither

did they weep nor speak among themselves, make any signs, nor dare

approach the bodies until we commanded these to be taken to burial.

While we were among these people, which was more than fifteen days,

we saw no one speak to another, nor did we see an infant smile: the

only one that cried they took off to a distance, and with the sharp

teeth of a rat they scratched it from the shoulders down nearly to

the end of the legs. Seeing this cruelty, and offended at it, I asked

why they did so: they said for chastisement, because the child had

wept in my presence. These terrors they imparted to all those who had

lately come to know us, that they might give us whatever they had;

for they knew we kept nothing, and would relinquish all to them. This

people were the most obedient we had found in all the land, the best

conditioned, and, in general, comely.

The sick having recovered, and three days having passed since we came

to the place, the women whom we sent away returned, and said they

had found very few people; nearly all had gone for cattle, being

then in the season. We ordered the convalescent to remain and the

well to go with us, and that at the end of two days' journey those

women should go with two of our number to fetch up the people, and

bring them on the road to receive us. Consequently, the next morning

the most robust started with us. At the end of three days' travel we

stopped, and the next day Alonzo del Castillo set out with Estevanico

the negro, taking the two women as guides. She that was the captive

led them to the river which ran between some ridges,[179] where was a

town at which her father lived; and these habitations were the first

seen, having the appearance and structure of houses.[180]

[179] _The_ river was the Rio Grande, to which they had now

returned. The description of the topography is in accordance with

the facts.

[180] The substantial character of the houses was noted also

by Antonio de Espejo, toward the close of 1582, on his journey

northward to New Mexico. Espejo speaks of these Indians, the

Jumanos, or Patarabueyes, as occupying five villages from about

the junction of the Conchos northward up the Rio Grande for

twelve days' journey, and as numbering ten thousand souls--but

Espejo's estimates of population are always greatly exaggerated.

More important is his statement that the Jumanos knew something

of Christianity which they had gleaned years before from three

Christians and a negro, whom he naturally believed to have been

"Alvaro Nuñez Cabeza de Vaca, y Dorantes, y Castillo Maldonado,

y un negro," who had made their escape from Narvaez's fleet.

This is one of the few definite points of the narrative that can

be established without question. See _Coleccion de Documentos

Inéditos relativos ... de América y Oceanía_, XV. 107 (1871).

Here Castillo and Estevanico arrived, and, after talking with the

Indians, Castillo returned at the end of three days to the spot where

he had left us, and brought five or six of the people. He told us

he had found fixed dwellings of civilization, that the inhabitants

lived on beans and pumpkins,[181] and that he had seen maize. This

news the most of anything delighted us, and for it we gave infinite

thanks to our Lord. Castillo told us the negro was coming with all

the population to wait for us in the road not far off. Accordingly

we left, and, having travelled a league and a half, we met the negro

and the people coming to receive us. They gave us beans, many

pumpkins, calabashes,[182] blankets of cowhide and other things. As

this people and those who came with us were enemies,[183] and spoke

not each other's language, we discharged the latter, giving them

what we received, and we departed with the others. Six leagues from

there, as the night set in we arrived at the houses, where great

festivities were made over us. We remained one day, and the next set

out with these Indians. They took us to the settled habitations of

others,[184] who lived upon the same food.

[181] _Melones_ in the edition of 1542. Bandelier has no doubt

that a species of squash is meant.

[182] ... "beans and many squashes to eat, gourds to carry water

in" (ed. of 1542, Bandelier translation).

[183] That is, the Jumanos and probably the Tobosos respectively.

The captive woman evidently belonged to the latter tribe.

[184] Apparently other settlements of the Jumanos, as mentioned

in the above note. The Spaniards were now going up the Rio Grande.

From that place onward was another usage. Those who knew of our

approach did not come out to receive us on the road as the others had

done, but we found them in their houses, and they had made others for

our reception. They were all seated with their faces turned to the

wall, their heads down, the hair brought before their eyes, and their

property placed in a heap in the middle of the house. From this place

they began to give us many blankets of skin; and they had nothing

they did not bestow. They have the finest persons of any people we

saw, of the greatest activity and strength, who best understood us

and intelligently answered our inquiries. We called them the Cow

nation, because most of the cattle killed are slaughtered in their

neighborhood, and along up that river for over fifty leagues they

destroy great numbers.[185]

[185] Although they resided in permanent habitations at this

time, the Jumanos lived east of the Rio Grande, in New Mexico,

a century later and practised the habits of the buffalo-hunting

plains tribes rather than those of sedentary Indians. The

"neighborhood" was evidently not the immediate vicinity, and the

stream alluded to seems much more likely to have been the Pecos

than the Rio Grande, the former having been named Rio de las

Vacas by Espejo in 1583. On this point see the opening paragraph

of the following chapter.

They go entirely naked after the manner of the first we saw. The

women are dressed with deer-skin, and some few men, mostly the aged,

who are incapable of fighting. The country is very populous. We asked

how it was they did not plant maize. They answered it was that they

might not lose what they should put in the ground; that the rains

had failed for two years in succession, and the seasons were so dry

the seed had everywhere been taken by the moles, and they could not

venture to plant again until after water had fallen copiously. They

begged us to tell the sky to rain, and to pray for it, and we said we

would do so. We also desired to know whence they got the maize, and

they told us from where the sun goes down; there it grew throughout

the region, and the nearest was by that path. Since they did not wish

to go thither, we asked by what direction we might best proceed,

and bade them inform us concerning the way; they said the path was

along up by that river towards the north, for otherwise in a journey

of seventeen days we should find nothing to eat, except a fruit

they call _chacan_, that is ground between stones, and even then it

could with difficulty be eaten for its dryness and pungency,--which

was true. They showed it to us there, and we could not eat it. They

informed us also that, whilst we travelled by the river upward, we

should all the way pass through a people that were their enemies, who

spoke their tongue, and, though they had nothing to give us to eat,

they would receive us with the best good will, and present us with

mantles of cotton, hides, and other articles of their wealth.[186]

Still it appeared to them we ought by no means to take that course.

[186] The Pueblo Indians of New Mexico are here referred to.

Later Spanish explorers found cotton garments in abundance in

their country. The statement here that the Jumanos spoke the same

tongue as some of the Pueblos is significant, and accounts in a

measure for the affiliation of the Jumanos with the Piros when

missions were established by the Franciscans among these two

tribes east of the Rio Grande, in New Mexico, in 1629.

Doubting what it would be best to do, and which way we should

choose for suitableness and support, we remained two days with

these Indians, who gave us beans and pumpkins for our subsistence.

Their method of cooking is so new that for its strangeness I desire

to speak of it; thus it may be seen and remarked how curious and

diversified are the contrivances and ingenuity of the human family.

Not having discovered the use of pipkins, to boil what they would

eat, they fill the half of a large calabash with water, and throw

on the fire many stones of such as are most convenient and readily

take the heat. When hot, they are taken up with tongs of sticks and

dropped into the calabash until the water in it boils from the fervor

of the stones. Then whatever is to be cooked is put in, and until it

is done they continue taking out cooled stones and throwing in hot

ones. Thus they boil their food.[187]

[187] This was not an uncommon practice, especially among the

non-sedentary tribes who could not readily transport pottery from

place to place. The name _Assiniboin_, meaning "stone Sioux,"

abbreviated to "Stonies," is derived from this custom. Tightly

woven baskets and wooden bowls were also used for the purpose.

Chapter 31

_Of our taking the way to the maize._

Two days being spent while we tarried, we resolved to go in search

of the maize. We did not wish to follow the path leading to where

the cattle are, because it is towards the north, and for us very

circuitous, since we ever held it certain that going towards the

sunset we must find what we desired.

Thus we took our way, and traversed all the country until coming

out at the South Sea. Nor was the dread we had of the sharp hunger

through which we should have to pass (as in verity we did, throughout

the seventeen days' journey of which the natives spoke) sufficient

to hinder us. During all that time, in ascending by the river, they

gave us many coverings of cowhide; but we did not eat of the fruit.

Our sustenance each day was about a handful of deer-suet, which we

had a long time been used to saving for such trials. Thus we passed

the entire journey of seventeen days, and at the close we crossed the

river[188] and travelled other seventeen days.

[188] Probably the Rio Santa Maria, in Chihuahua.

As the sun went down, upon some plains that lie between chains

of very great mountains,[189] we found a people who for the third

part of the year eat nothing but the powder of straw, and, that

being the season when we passed, we also had to eat of it, until

reaching permanent habitations, where was abundance of maize brought

together.[190] They gave us a large quantity in grain and flour,

pumpkins, beans, and shawls of cotton. With all these we loaded our

guides, who went back the happiest creatures on earth. We gave thanks

to God, our Lord, for having brought us where we had found so much

food.

[189] The Sierra Madre.

[190] The numerous villages of the Opata and cognate tribes of

Sonora.

Some houses are of earth, the rest all of cane mats. From this

point we marched through more than a hundred leagues of country,

and continually found settled domicils, with plenty of maize and

beans. The people gave us many deer and cotton shawls better than

those of New Spain, many beads and certain corals found on the South

Sea, and fine turquoises that come from the north. Indeed they gave

us every thing they had. To me they gave five emeralds[191] made

into arrow-heads, which they use at their singing and dancing. They

appeared to be very precious. I asked whence they got these; and they

said the stones were brought from some lofty mountains that stand

toward the north, where were populous towns and very large houses,

and that they were purchased with plumes and the feathers of parrots.

[191] Bandelier (p. 156) believes that there may have been

malachites.

Among this people the women are treated with more decorum than in

any part of the Indias we had visited. They wear a shirt of cotton

that falls as low as the knee, and over it half sleeves with skirts

reaching to the ground, made of dressed deer-skin.[192] It opens

in front and is brought close with straps of leather. They soap

this with a certain root[193] that cleanses well, by which they are

enabled to keep it becomingly. Shoes are worn. The people all came to

us that we should touch and bless them, they being very urgent, which

we could accomplish only with great labor, for sick and well all

wished to go with a benediction. Many times it occurred that some of

the women who accompanied us gave birth; and so soon as the children

were born the mothers would bring them to us that we should touch and

bless them.

[192] For the clothing of the Opata Indians, see Castañeda's

narration in this volume.

[193] Amole, the root of the yucca.

These Indians ever accompanied us until they delivered us to others;

and all held full faith in our coming from heaven. While travelling,

we went without food all day until night, and we ate so little as

to astonish them. We never felt exhaustion, neither were we in fact

at all weary, so inured were we to hardship. We possessed great

influence and authority: to preserve both, we seldom talked with

them. The negro was in constant conversation; he informed himself

about the ways we wished to take, of the towns there were, and the

matters we desired to know.

We passed through many and dissimilar tongues. Our Lord granted us

favor with the people who spoke them, for they always understood us,

and we them. We questioned them, and received their answers by signs,

just as if they spoke our language and we theirs; for, although we

knew six languages, we could not everywhere avail ourselves of them,

there being a thousand differences.

Throughout all these countries the people who were at war immediately

made friends, that they might come to meet us, and bring what they

possessed. In this way we left all the land at peace, and we taught

all the inhabitants by signs, which they understood, that in heaven

was a Man we called God, who had created the sky and the earth; Him

we worshipped and had for our master; that we did what He commanded

and from His hand came all good; and would they do as we did, all

would be well with them. So ready of apprehension we found them that,

could we have had the use of language by which to make ourselves

perfectly understood, we should have left them all Christians. Thus

much we gave them to understand the best we could. And afterward,

when the sun rose, they opened their hands together with loud

shouting towards the heavens, and then drew them down all over their

bodies. They did the same again when the sun went down. They are a

people of good condition and substance, capable in any pursuit.

Chapter 32

_The Indians give us the hearts of deer._

In the town where the emeralds were presented to us the people gave

Dorantes over six hundred open hearts of deer. They ever keep a

good supply of them for food, and we called the place Pueblo de los

Corazones.[194] It is the entrance into many provinces on the South

Sea. They who go to look for them, and do not enter there, will be

lost. On the coast is no maize: the inhabitants eat the powder of

rush and of straw, and fish that is caught in the sea from rafts, not

having canoes. With grass and straw the women cover their nudity.

They are a timid and dejected people.[195]

[194] Town of the Hearts, at or near the present Ures, on the Rio

Sonora. The place became celebrated in 1540, when Coronado's army

passed through the country. See the Castañeda narration in this

volume.

[195] These were the Seri, Guaymas, Upanguaymas, and Tepoca

tribes. The Seri particularly have ever been noted for their

warlike character, but Cabeza de Vaca does not here speak from

personal knowledge.

We think that near the coast by way of those towns through which

we came are more than a thousand leagues of inhabited country,

plentiful of subsistence. Three times the year it is planted with

maize and beans. Deer are of three kinds; one the size of the young

steer of Spain. There are innumerable houses, such as are called

_bahíos_.[196] They have poison from a certain tree the size of the

apple. For effect no more is necessary than to pluck the fruit and

moisten the arrow with it, or, if there be no fruit, to break a twig

and with the milk do the like. The tree is abundant and so deadly

that, if the leaves be bruised and steeped in some neighboring water,

the deer and other animals drinking it soon burst.[197]

[196] That is, in the West Indies, see p. 19, note 5.

[197] See the Castañeda narration, p. 326, _post_; and compare

the _Rudo Ensayo_ (_ca._ 1763), p. 64, 1863, which says: "_Mago_,

in the Opata language, is a small tree, very green, luxuriant,

and beautiful to the eye; but it contains a deadly juice which

flows upon making a slight incision in the bark. The natives rub

their arrows with it, and for this reason they call it arrow

herb; but at present they use very little."

We were in this town three days. A day's journey[198] farther was

another town,[199] at which the rain fell heavily while we were

there, and the river became so swollen we could not cross it, which

detained us fifteen days. In this time Castillo saw the buckle of a

sword-belt on the neck of an Indian and stitched to it the nail of

a horseshoe. He took them, and we asked the native what they were:

he answered that they came from heaven. We questioned him further,

as to who had brought them thence: they all responded that certain

men who wore beards like us had come from heaven and arrived at that

river, bringing horses, lances, and swords, and that they had lanced

two Indians. In a manner of the utmost indifference we could feign,

we asked them what had become of those men. They answered us that

they had gone to sea, putting their lances beneath the water, and

going themselves also under the water; afterwards that they were

seen on the surface going towards the sunset. For this we gave many

thanks to God our Lord. We had before despaired of ever hearing more

of Christians. Even yet we were left in great doubt and anxiety,

thinking those people were merely persons who had come by sea on

discoveries. However, as we had now such exact information, we made

greater speed, and, as we advanced on our way, the news of the

Christians continually grew. We told the natives that we were going

in search of that people, to order them not to kill nor make slaves

of them, nor take them from their lands, nor do other injustice. Of

this the Indians were very glad.

[198] Twelve leagues, and the same distance from the Gulf of

California, according to the last paragraph of this chapter.

[199] Perhaps at or in the vicinity of the present Hermosillo,

Sonora, although the distance is greater than that given later.

We passed through many territories and found them all vacant: their

inhabitants wandered fleeing among the mountains, without daring

to have houses or till the earth for fear of Christians. The sight

was one of infinite pain to us, a land very fertile and beautiful,

abounding in springs and streams, the hamlets deserted and burned,

the people thin and weak, all fleeing or in concealment. As they did

not plant, they appeased their keen hunger by eating roots and the

bark of trees. We bore a share in the famine along the whole way;

for poorly could these unfortunates provide for us, themselves being

so reduced they looked as though they would willingly die. They

brought shawls of those they had concealed because of the Christians,

presenting them to us; and they related how the Christians at other

times had come through the land, destroying and burning the towns,

carrying away half the men, and all the women and the boys, while

those who had been able to escape were wandering about fugitives. We

found them so alarmed they dared not remain anywhere. They would not

nor could they till the earth, but preferred to die rather than live

in dread of such cruel usage as they received. Although these showed

themselves greatly delighted with us, we feared that on our arrival

among those who held the frontier, and fought against the Christians,

they would treat us badly, and revenge upon us the conduct of their

enemies; but, when God our Lord was pleased to bring us there, they

began to dread and respect us as the others had done, and even

somewhat more, at which we no little wondered. Thence it may at once

be seen that, to bring all these people to be Christians and to the

obedience of the Imperial Majesty, they must be won by kindness,

which is a way certain, and no other is.

They took us to a town on the edge of a range of mountains, to which

the ascent is over difficult crags. We found many people there

collected out of fear of the Christians. They received us well,

and presented us all they had. They gave us more than two thousand

back-loads of maize, which we gave to the distressed and hungered

beings who guided us to that place. The next day we despatched four

messengers through the country, as we were accustomed to do, that

they should call together all the rest of the Indians at a town

distant three days' march. We set out the day after with all the

people. The tracks of the Christians and marks where they slept were

continually seen. At mid-day we met our messengers, who told us

they had found no Indians, that they were roving and hiding in the

forests, fleeing that the Christians might not kill nor make them

slaves; the night before they had observed the Christians from behind

trees, and discovered what they were about, carrying away many people

in chains.

Those who came with us were alarmed at this intelligence; some

returned to spread the news over the land that the Christians were

coming; and many more would have followed, had we not forbidden

it and told them to cast aside their fear, when they reassured

themselves and were well content. At the time we had Indians with us

belonging a hundred leagues behind, and we were in no condition to

discharge them, that they might return to their homes. To encourage

them, we stayed there that night; the day after we marched and slept

on the road. The following day those whom we had sent forward as

messengers guided us to the place where they had seen Christians. We

arrived in the afternoon, and saw at once that they told the truth.

We perceived that the persons were mounted, by the stakes to which

the horses had been tied.

From this spot, called the river Petutan,[200] to the river to

which Diego de Guzmán came,[201] where we heard of Christians, may

be as many as eighty leagues; thence to the town where the rains

overtook us, twelve leagues, and that is twelve leagues from the

South Sea.[202] Throughout this region, wheresoever the mountains

extend, we saw clear traces of gold and lead, iron, copper, and other

metals. Where the settled habitations are, the climate is hot; even

in January the weather is very warm. Thence toward the meridian, the

country unoccupied to the North Sea is unhappy and sterile. There we

underwent great and incredible hunger. Those who inhabit and wander

over it are a race of evil inclination and most cruel customs. The

people of the fixed residences[203] and those beyond regard silver

and gold with indifference, nor can they conceive of any use for them.

[200] Petatlan; so also in the edition of 1542. This is the Rio

Sinaloa. See Castañeda's narration of the Coronado expedition,

part 2, ch. 2, _post_.

[201] See the note on Guzman in the Castañeda relation. The

narrative is here slightly confused, as the town at which

they first heard of Christians was the one in which they were

overtaken by the rain, according to Cabeza de Vaca's previous

statement in this chapter.

[202] The Gulf of California. As he did not go to the coast,

however, his estimate is considerably below the actual distance.

[203] The Jumanos, previously mentioned.

Chapter 33

_We see traces of Christians._

When we saw sure signs of Christians, and heard how near we were to

them, we gave thanks to God our Lord for having chosen to bring us

out of a captivity so melancholy and wretched. The delight we felt

let each one conjecture, when he shall remember the length of time

we were in that country, the suffering and perils we underwent. That

night I entreated my companions that one of them should go back three

days' journey after the Christians who were moving about over the

country, where we had given assurance of protection. Neither of them

received this proposal well, excusing themselves because of weariness

and exhaustion; and although either might have done better than I,

being more youthful and athletic, yet seeing their unwillingness, the

next morning I took the negro with eleven Indians, and, following the

Christians by their trail, I travelled ten leagues, passing three

villages, at which they had slept.

The day after I overtook four of them on horseback, who were

astonished at the sight of me, so strangely habited as I was, and

in company with Indians.[204] They stood staring at me a length of

time, so confounded that they neither hailed me nor drew near to make

an inquiry. I bade them take me to their chief: accordingly we went

together half a league to the place where was Diego de Alcaraz, their

captain.[205]

[204] There were twenty horsemen according to the _Letter_

(Oviedo, p. 612).

[205] Alcaraz later served as a lieutenant under Diaz in the

Coronado expedition. Castañeda characterizes him as a weakling.

After we had conversed, he stated to me that he was completely

undone; he had not been able in a long time to take any Indians; he

knew not which way to turn, and his men had well begun to experience

hunger and fatigue. I told him of Castillo and Dorantes, who were

behind, ten leagues off, with a multitude that conducted us. He

thereupon sent three cavalry to them, with fifty of the Indians who

accompanied him. The negro returned to guide them, while I remained.

I asked the Christians to give me a certificate of the year, month,

and day I arrived there, and of the manner of my coming, which they

accordingly did. From this river[206] to the town of the Christians,

named San Miguel,[207] within the government of the province called

New Galicia, are thirty leagues.

[206] Evidently the Rio Sinaloa.

[207] San Miguel Culiacan. See Castañeda's narration.

Chapter 34

_Of sending for the Christians._

Five days having elapsed, Andrés Dorantes and Alonzo del Castillo

arrived with those who had been sent after them. They brought more

than six hundred persons of that community, whom the Christians had

driven into the forests, and who had wandered in concealment over the

land. Those who accompanied us so far had drawn them out, and given

them to the Christians, who thereupon dismissed all the others they

had brought with them. Upon their coming to where I was, Alcaraz

begged that we would summon the people of the towns on the margin of

the river, who straggled about under cover of the woods, and order

them to fetch us something to eat. This last was unnecessary, the

Indians being ever diligent to bring us all they could. Directly we

sent our messengers to call them, when there came six hundred souls,

bringing us all the maize in their possession. They fetched it in

certain pots, closed with clay, which they had concealed in the

earth. They brought us whatever else they had; but we, wishing only

to have the provision, gave the rest to the Christians, that they

might divide among themselves. After this we had many high words with

them; for they wished to make slaves of the Indians we brought.

In consequence of the dispute, we left at our departure many bows

of Turkish shape we had along with us and many pouches. The five

arrows with the points of emerald were forgotten among others, and

we lost them. We gave the Christians a store of robes of cowhide and

other things we brought. We found it difficult to induce the Indians

to return to their dwellings, to feel no apprehension and plant

maize. They were willing to do nothing until they had gone with us

and delivered us into the hands of other Indians, as had been the

custom; for, if they returned without doing so, they were afraid

they should die, and, going with us, they feared neither Christians

nor lances. Our countrymen became jealous at this, and caused their

interpreter to tell the Indians that we were of them, and for a long

time we had been lost; that they were the lords of the land who must

be obeyed and served, while we were persons of mean condition and

small force. The Indians cared little or nothing for what was told

them; and conversing among themselves said the Christians lied: that

we had come whence the sun rises, and they whence it goes down; we

healed the sick, they killed the sound; that we had come naked and

barefooted, while they had arrived in clothing and on horses with

lances; that we were not covetous of anything, but all that was given

to us we directly turned to give, remaining with nothing; that the

others had the only purpose to rob whomsoever they found, bestowing

nothing on any one.

In this way they spoke of all matters respecting us, which they

enhanced by contrast with matters concerning the others, delivering

their response through the interpreter of the Spaniards. To other

Indians they made this known by means of one among them through whom

they understood us. Those who speak that tongue we discriminately

call Primahaitu, which is like saying Vasconyados.[208] We found

it in use over more than four hundred leagues of our travel,

without another over that whole extent. Even to the last, I could

not convince the Indians that we were of the Christians; and only

with great effort and solicitation we got them to go back to their

residences. We ordered them to put away apprehension, establish their

towns, plant and cultivate the soil.

[208] Evidently intended for _Pimahaitu_, through

misunderstanding. These tribes who lived in permanent

habitations, from the village of the Corazones (Hearts) to

Culiacan, were all of the Piman family, and consequently spoke

related languages. The Pima do not call themselves _Pima_, but

_O-otam_, "men," "people." _Pima_ means "no"; _pimahaitu_, "no

thing." The term _Vasconyados_, or _Vascongados_, refers to the

Biscayans.

From abandonment the country had already grown up thickly in trees.

It is, no doubt, the best in all these Indias, the most prolific

and plenteous in provisions. Three times in the year it is planted.

It produces great variety of fruit, has beautiful rivers, with many

other good waters. There are ores with clear traces of gold and

silver. The people are well disposed: they serve such Christians as

are their friends, with great good will. They are comely, much more

so than the Mexicans. Indeed, the land needs no circumstance to make

it blessed.

The Indians, at taking their leave, told us they would do what we

commanded, and would build their towns, if the Christians would

suffer them; and this I say and affirm most positively, that, if they

have not done so, it is the fault of the Christians.

After we had dismissed the Indians in peace, and thanked them for the

toil they had supported with us, the Christians with subtlety sent

us on our way under charge of Zebreros, an alcalde, attended by two

men. They took us through forests and solitudes, to hinder us from

intercourse with the natives, that we might neither witness nor have

knowledge of the act they would commit. It is but an instance of how

frequently men are mistaken in their aims; we set about to preserve

the liberty of the Indians and thought we had secured it, but the

contrary appeared; for the Christians had arranged to go and spring

upon those we had sent away in peace and confidence. They executed

their plan as they had designed, taking us through the woods, wherein

for two days we were lost, without water and without way. Seven of

our men died of thirst, and we all thought to have perished. Many

friendly to the Christians in their company were unable to reach

the place where we got water the second night, until the noon of

next day. We travelled twenty-five leagues, little more or less, and

reached a town of friendly Indians. The alcalde left us there, and

went on three leagues farther to a town called Culiacan where was

Melchior Diaz, principal alcalde and captain of the province.[209]

[209] For the later career of this officer, see Castañeda's

narration. Melchior Diaz was a man of very different stamp to

Guzman, Alcaraz, and Zebreros (or Cebreros), so far as his

treatment of the Indians is concerned.

Chapter 35

_The chief alcalde receives us kindly the night we arrive._

The _alcalde mayor_ knew of the expedition, and, hearing of our

return, he immediately left that night and came to where we were.

He wept with us, giving praises to God our Lord for having extended

over us so great care. He comforted and entertained us hospitably.

In behalf of the Governor, Nuño de Guzman and himself, he tendered

all that he had, and the service in his power. He showed much regret

for the seizure, and the injustice we had received from Alcaraz and

others. We were sure, had he been present, what was done to the

Indians and to us would never have occurred.

The night being passed, we set out the next day for Anhacan. The

chief alcalde besought us to tarry there, since by so doing we could

be of eminent service to God and your Majesty; the deserted land was

without tillage and everywhere badly wasted, the Indians were fleeing

and concealing themselves in the thickets, unwilling to occupy their

towns; we were to send and call them, commanding them in behalf of

God and the King, to return to live in the vales and cultivate the

soil.

To us this appeared difficult to effect. We had brought no native

of our own, nor of those who accompanied us according to custom,

intelligent in these affairs. At last we made the attempt with two

captives, brought from that country, who were with the Christians

we first overtook. They had seen the people who conducted us, and

learned from them the great authority and command we carried and

exercised throughout those parts, the wonders we had worked, the sick

we had cured, and the many things besides we had done. We ordered

that they, with others of the town, should go together to summon the

hostile natives among the mountains and of the river Petachan,[210]

where we had found the Christians, and say to them they must come

to us, that we wished to speak with them. For the protection of the

messengers, and as a token to the others of our will, we gave them

a gourd of those we were accustomed to bear in our hands, which had

been our principal insignia and evidence of rank,[211] and with this

they went away.

[210] Petatlan--the Rio Sinaloa.

[211] Evidently one of those obtained in Texas and which the

Indians there so highly regarded. See p. 90, note 2; p. 95, note

1.

The Indians were gone seven days, and returned with three chiefs of

those revolted among the ridges, who brought with them fifteen men,

and presented us beads, turquoises, and feathers. The messengers

said they had not found the people of the river where we appeared,

the Christians having again made them run away into the mountains.

Melchior Diaz told the interpreter to speak to the natives for us;

to say to them we came in the name of God, who is in heaven; that

we had travelled about the world many years, telling all the people

we found that they should believe in God and serve Him; for He was

the Master of all things on the earth, benefiting and rewarding the

virtuous, and to the bad giving perpetual punishment of fire; that,

when the good die, He takes them to heaven, where none ever die, nor

feel cold, nor hunger, nor thirst, nor any inconvenience whatsoever,

but the greatest enjoyment possible to conceive; that those who will

not believe in Him, nor obey His commands, He casts beneath the earth

into the company of demons, and into a great fire which is never

to go out, but always torment; that, over this, if they desired to

be Christians and serve God in the way we required, the Christians

would cherish them as brothers and behave towards them very kindly;

that we would command they give no offence nor take them from their

territories, but be their great friends. If the Indians did not do

this, the Christians would treat them very hardly, carrying them away

as slaves into other lands.[212]

[212] Among the Indians of this region who were carried away into

captivity were the Yaqui, who have been hostile to the whites to

this day.

They answered through the interpreter that they would be true

Christians and serve God. Being asked to whom they sacrifice and

offer worship, from whom they ask rain for their corn-fields and

health for themselves, they answered of a man that is in heaven. We

inquired of them his name, and they told us Aguar; and they believed

he created the whole world, and the things in it. We returned to

question them as to how they knew this; they answered their fathers

and grandfathers had told them, that from distant time had come their

knowledge, and they knew the rain and all good things were sent to

them by him. We told them that the name of him of whom they spoke we

called Dios; and if they would call him so, and would worship him as

we directed, they would find their welfare. They responded that they

well understood, and would do as we said. We ordered them to come

down from the mountains in confidence and peace, inhabit the whole

country and construct their houses: among these they should build one

for God, at its entrance place a cross like that which we had there

present; and, when Christians came among them, they should go out to

receive them with crosses in their hands, without bows or any arms,

and take them to their dwellings, giving of what they have to eat,

and the Christians would do them no injury, but be their friends; and

the Indians told us they would do as we had commanded.

The captain having given them shawls and entertained them, they

returned, taking the two captives who had been used as emissaries.

This occurrence took place before the notary, in the presence of many

witnesses.

Chapter 36

_Of building churches in that land._

As soon as these Indians went back, all those of that province who

were friendly to the Christians, and had heard of us, came to visit

us, bringing beads and feathers. We commanded them to build churches

and put crosses in them: to that time none had been raised; and we

made them bring their principal men to be baptized.

Then the captain made a covenant with God, not to invade nor consent

to invasion, nor to enslave any of that country and people, to whom

we had guaranteed safety; that this he would enforce and defend until

your Majesty and the Governor Nuño de Guzman, or the Viceroy in your

name, should direct what would be most for the service of God and

your Highness.

When the children had been baptized, we departed for the town of San

Miguel. So soon as we arrived, April 1, 1536, came Indians, who told

us many people had come down from the mountains and were living in

the vales; that they had made churches and crosses, doing all we had

required. Each day we heard how these things were advancing to a full

improvement.

Fifteen days of our residence having passed, Alcaraz got back with

the Christians from the incursion, and they related to the captain

the manner in which the Indians had come down and peopled the plain;

that the towns were inhabited which had been tenantless and deserted,

the residents, coming out to receive them with crosses in their

hands, had taken them to their houses, giving of what they had, and

the Christians had slept among them over night. They were surprised

at a thing so novel; but, as the natives said they had been assured

of safety, it was ordered that they should not be harmed, and the

Christians took friendly leave of them.

God in His infinite mercy is pleased that in the days of your

Majesty, under your might and dominion, these nations should come to

be thoroughly and voluntarily subject to the Lord, who has created

and redeemed us. We regard this as certain, that your Majesty is he

who is destined to do so much, not difficult to accomplish; for in

the two thousand leagues we journeyed on land, and in boats on water,

and in that we travelled unceasingly for ten months after coming out

of captivity, we found neither sacrifices nor idolatry.

In the time, we traversed from sea to sea; and from information

gathered with great diligence, there may be a distance from one to

another at the widest part, of two thousand leagues; and we learned

that on the coast of the South Sea there are pearls and great riches,

and the best and all the most opulent countries are near there.

We were in the village of San Miguel until the fifteenth day of

May.[213] The cause of so long a detention was, that from thence to

the city of Compostela, where the Governor Nuño de Guzman resided,

are a hundred leagues of country, entirely devastated and filled

with enemies, where it was necessary we should have protection.

Twenty mounted men went with us for forty leagues, and after that six

Christians accompanied us, who had with them five hundred slaves.

Arrived at Compostela, the Governor entertained us graciously and

gave us of his clothing for our use. I could not wear any for some

time, nor could we sleep anywhere else but on the ground. After ten

or twelve days we left for Mexico, and were all along on the way well

entertained by Christians. Many came out on the roads to gaze at us,

giving thanks to God for having saved us from so many calamities.

We arrived at Mexico on Sunday, the day before the vespers of Saint

Iago,[214] where we were handsomely treated by the Viceroy and

the Marquis del Valle,[215] and welcomed, with joy. They gave us

clothing and proffered whatsoever they had. On the day of Saint Iago

was a celebration, and a joust of reeds with bulls.

[213] 1536.

[214] The day of Saint James the Apostle--July 25, 1536.

[215] The Viceroy Mendoza and Cortés.

Chapter 37

_Of what occurred when I wished to return._

When we had rested two months in Mexico, I desired to return to these

kingdoms;[216] and being about to embark in the month of October, a

storm came on, capsizing the ship, and she was lost. In consequence I

resolved to remain through the winter; because in those parts it is

a boisterous season for navigation. After that had gone by, Dorantes

and I left Mexico, about Lent, to take shipping at Vera Cruz. We

remained waiting for a wind until Palm Sunday, when we went on board,

and were detained fifteen days longer for a wind. The ship leaked so

much that I quitted her, and went to one of two other vessels that

were ready to sail, but Dorantes remained in her.

[216] Spain.

On the tenth day of April,[217] the three ships left the port, and

sailed one hundred and fifty leagues. Two of them leaked a great

deal; and one night the vessel I was in lost their company. Their

pilots and masters, as afterwards appeared, dared not proceed with

the other vessels so, and without telling us of their intentions, or

letting us know aught of them, put back to the port they had left.

We pursued our voyage, and on the fourth day of May we entered the

harbor of Havana, in the island of Cuba. We remained waiting for the

other vessels, believing them to be on their way, until the second

of June, when we sailed, in much fear of falling in with Frenchmen,

as they had a few days before taken three Spanish vessels. Having

arrived at the island of Bermuda, we were struck by one of those

storms that overtake those who pass there, according to what they

state who sail thither. All one night we considered ourselves lost;

and we were thankful that when morning was come, the storm ceased,

and we could go on our course.

[217] 1537.

At the end of twenty-nine days after our departure from Havana, we

had sailed eleven hundred leagues, which are said to be thence to the

town of the Azores. The next morning, passing by the island called

Cuervo,[218] we fell in with a French ship. At noon she began to

follow, bringing with her a caravel captured from the Portuguese, and

gave us chase. In the evening we saw nine other sail; but they were

so distant we could not make out whether they were Portuguese or of

those that pursued us. At night the Frenchman was within shot of a

lombard from our ship, and we stole away from our course in the dark

to evade him, and this we did three or four times. He approached so

near that he saw us and fired. He might have taken us, or, at his

option could leave us until the morning. I remember with gratitude to

the Almighty when the sun rose, and we found ourselves close with the

Frenchman, that near us were the nine sail we saw the evening before,

which we now recognized to be of the fleet of Portugal. I gave thanks

to our Lord for escape from the troubles of the land and perils of

the sea. The Frenchman, so soon as he discovered their character,

let go the caravel he had seized with a cargo of negroes and kept as

a prize, to make us think he was Portuguese, that we might wait for

him. When he cast her off, he told the pilot and the master of her,

that we were French and under his convoy. This said, sixty oars were

put out from his ship, and thus with these and sail he commenced to

flee, moving so fast it was hardly credible. The caravel being let

go, went to the galleon, and informed the commander that the other

ship and ours were French. As we drew nigh the galleon, and the fleet

saw we were coming down upon them, they made no doubt we were, and

putting themselves in order of battle, bore up for us, and when near

we hailed them. Discovering that we were friends, they found that

they were mocked in permitting the corsair to escape, by being told

that we were French and of his company.

[218] Corvo.

Four caravels were sent in pursuit. The galleon drawing near, after

the salutation from us, the commander, Diego de Silveira, asked

whence we came and what merchandise we carried, when we answered

that we came from New Spain, and were loaded with silver and gold.

He asked us how much there might be; the captain told him we carried

three thousand _castellanos_. The commander replied: "In honest truth

you come very rich, although you bring a very sorry ship and a still

poorer artillery. By Heaven, that renegade whoreson Frenchman has

lost a good mouthful. Now that you have escaped, follow me, and do

not leave me that I may, with God's help, deliver you in Spain."

After a little time, the caravels that pursued the Frenchman

returned, for plainly he moved too fast for them; they did not like

either, to leave the fleet, which was guarding three ships that came

laden with spices. Thus we reached the island of Terceira, where we

reposed fifteen days, taking refreshment and awaiting the arrival of

another ship coming with a cargo from India, the companion of the

three of which the armada was in charge. The time having run out, we

left that place with the fleet, and arrived at the port of Lisbon on

the ninth of August, on the vespers of the day of our master Saint

Lawrence,[219] in the year one thousand five hundred and thirty-seven.

[219] The day of Saint Lawrence (San Lorenzo) is August 10.

That what I have stated in my foregoing narrative is true, I

subscribe with my name.

CABEZA DE VACA.

The narrative here ended is signed with his name and arms.

Chapter 38

_Of what became of the others who went to Indias._

Since giving this circumstantial account of events attending the

voyage to Florida, the invasion, and our going out thence until the

arrival in these realms, I desire to state what became of the ships

and of the people who remained with them. I have not before touched

on this, as we were uninformed until coming to New Spain, where we

found many of the persons, and others here in Castile, from whom we

learned everything to the latest particular.

At the time we left, one of the ships had already been lost on the

breakers, and the three others were in considerable danger, having

nearly a hundred souls on board and few stores. Among the persons

were ten married women, one of whom had told the Governor many things

that afterwards befell him on the voyage. She cautioned him before he

went inland not to go, as she was confident that neither he nor any

going with him could ever escape; but should any one come back from

that country, the Almighty must work great wonders in his behalf,

though she believed few or none would return. The Governor said

that he and his followers were going to fight and conquer nations

and countries wholly unknown, and in subduing them he knew that

many would be slain; nevertheless, that those who survived would be

fortunate, since from what he had understood of the opulence of that

land, they must become very rich. And further he begged her to inform

him whence she learned those things that had passed, as well as

those she spoke of, that were to come; she replied that in Castile a

Moorish woman of Hornachos had told them to her, which she had stated

to us likewise before we left Spain, and while on the passage many

things happened in the way she foretold.

After the Governor had made Caravallo, a native of Cuenca de Huete,

his lieutenant and commander of the vessels and people, he departed,

leaving orders that all diligence should be used to repair on board,

and take the direct course to Pánuco, keeping along the shore closely

examining for the harbor, and having found it, the vessels should

enter there and await our arrival. And the people state, that when

they had betaken themselves to the ships, all of them looking at that

woman, they distinctly heard her say to the females, that well,

since their husbands had gone inland, putting their persons in so

great jeopardy, their wives should in no way take more account of

them, but ought soon to be looking after whom they would marry, and

that she should do so. She did accordingly: she and others married,

or became the concubines of those who remained in the ships.

After we left, the vessels made sail, taking their course onward; but

not finding the harbor, they returned. Five leagues below the place

at which we debarked, they found the port, the same we discovered

when we saw the Spanish cases containing dead bodies, which were of

Christians.[220] Into this haven and along this coast, the three

ships passed with the other ship that came from Cuba, and the

brigantine, looking for us nearly a year, and not finding us, they

went to New Spain.

[220] Tampa Bay, Florida.

The port of which we speak is the best in the world. At the entrance

are six fathoms of water and five near the shore. It runs up into the

land seven or eight leagues. The bottom is fine white sand. No sea

breaks upon it nor boisterous storm, and it can contain many vessels.

Fish is in great plenty. There are a hundred leagues to Havana, a

town of Christians in Cuba, with which it bears north and south. The

north-east wind ever prevails and vessels go from one to the other,

returning in a few days; for the reason that they sail either way

with it on the quarter.

As I have given account of the vessels, it may be well that I state

who are, and from what parts of these kingdoms come, the persons whom

our Lord has been pleased to release from these troubles. The first

is Alonzo del Castillo Maldonado, native of Salamanca, son of Doctor

Castillo and Doña Aldonça Maldonado. The second is Andrés Dorantes,

son of Pablo Dorantes, native of Béjar, and citizen of Gibraleon. The

third is Alvar Nuñez Cabeça de Vaca, son of Francisco de Vera, and

grandson of Pedro de Vera who conquered the Canaries, and his mother

was Doña Tereça Cabeça de Vaca, native of Xeréz de la Frontera. The

fourth, called Estevanico, is an Arabian black, native of Açamor.

THE END

The present tract was imprinted in the very magnificent, noble and

very ancient City of Zamora, by the honored residents Augustin de Paz

and Juan Picardo, partners, printers of books, at the cost and outlay

of the virtuous Juan Pedro Musetti, book merchant of Medina del

Campo, having been finished the sixth day of the month of October, in

the year one thousand five hundred and forty-two of the birth of our

Saviour Jesus Christ.[221]

[221] Colophon of the first edition.

THE NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION OF HERNANDO DE SOTO, BY THE GENTLEMAN

OF ELVAS

INTRODUCTION

In the early annals of the exploration, conquest, and settlement

of the territory of the United States none are to be found to

which more interest is attached than to the expedition of Hernando

de Soto through the Gulf States. History, tradition, and poetry

are indissolubly linked with his name. Counties, towns, and lakes

have been named after him, and tradition attaches his name to many

localities far removed from the line of his march.

In the narrative of the expedition we get our first geographical

knowledge of the interior of the states of Florida, Georgia, North

and South Carolina, Tennessee, Alabama, Mississippi, Arkansas,

Texas, and the Indian Territory. The Spaniards while on their minor

expeditions among the Indians may also have entered the states of

Missouri and Louisiana, but of this there is no certainty.

The earliest history of the great Indian tribes or nations residing

in the above-named states is related by these narratives, the

expedition having traversed the territory of the Timuguas, Cherokees,

the various divisions or tribes of the Muskogee or Creek confederacy,

the Choctaws, Chickasaws, Quapaws or Arkansas, several branches

of the great Pani nation, and some other tribes that are not so

easily identified. In the narratives are also to be found the first

descriptions of the habits, manners, and customs of the native tribes

met with. Their towns, villages, houses, temples, granaries, bridges,

canoes, banners, arms, wearing apparel, and culinary implements are

also described.

The first published narrative was written by a gentleman from

the town of Elvas, in Portugal, who joined the expedition and

participated in its trials and privations, and in the weary but

memorable march through what was then known as Florida. If he was one

of those Portuguese who are named in the book as having started from

Elvas, the inference may be drawn from the wording of the narrative

that he was named Alvaro Fernandez. His narrative was written after

his return from the expedition, and is evidently not based upon a

diary, or even field-notes, but seemingly was drawn entirely from

memory. His descriptions are somewhat vague, the localities sometimes

indefinite, the distances sometimes confused, and there are some

palpable errors. The lengthy addresses of the caciques belong to

romance rather than to history; at least, they are open to grave

suspicion that they were manufactured for the occasion. Nevertheless,

when the narrative is considered as a whole, it is decidedly the

best full account that has been handed down to us. It records the

first discovery and navigation of the Mississippi River, the death

of its discoverer, De Soto, the building of the first sea-going

vessels--brigantines--by Moscoso, the first voyage down "the great

river," and the arrival in Mexico of the remnants of the once

powerful expedition. The narrative, taken in connection with that

of Ranjel, preserved in Oviedo's _Historia General y Natural de las

Indias_ (Seville, 1547), supplies almost a daily record of the events

as they occurred.

The Gentleman of Elvas having been an eye-witness, and his narrative

being the best one that has been preserved, it must be taken as a

basis for laying down the route of the expedition. The abridged

journal of Ranjel, De Soto's private secretary, should also be

accepted as a standard, especially as to dates and the order in which

the towns and provinces are named. The narrative of Biedma, the

factor of the expedition,[222] although written after his arrival

in Mexico, supplies some additional information. It furnishes the

only clue as to the direction pursued by Moscoso, after leaving

Guachoya, and therefore contains valuable auxiliary evidence. The

account written by Garcilaso de la Vega, "the Inca," _Florida del

Ynca_ (Lisbon, 1605), is principally based upon the oral statements

of a noble Spaniard who accompanied Soto as a volunteer, and the

written but illiterate reports of two common soldiers, Alonzo

de Carmona and Juan Coles. After eliminating all the overdrawn,

flowery, and fanciful portions of the account, there is a residue

consisting, in part, of misplaced towns, provinces, and events,

together with occasional duplications of descriptions. Of the

remainder, only such portions as conform to, or do not conflict

with, the other narratives are worthy of consideration. By combining

the geographical, topographical, and descriptive portions of the

narratives, and exploring the probable and possible sections of the

route, the present writer has succeeded in identifying a number of

points visited by Soto and his followers. A detailed description

of the places identified will be found in the _Publications of the

Mississippi Historical Society_ (VI. 449-467); and the relative value

of the narratives, together with the minor documents, is discussed in

the same series (VII. 379-387).

[222] First printed by Buckingham Smith in his _Coleccion de

varios Documentos para la Historia de la Florida_ (London, 1857).

The Gentleman of Elvas, unlike Ranjel, does not put himself forward,

but was so modest that only once does he refer to himself while on

the march through Florida, and that was on the occasion of the death

of some relatives while at Aminoya. Seemingly he did not take an

active part at the front or in the advances, but was always with the

main army.

The Narrative of the Gentleman of Elvas was first published at

Evora, Portugal, in 1557. It was reprinted at Lisbon in 1844 by

the Royal Academy, and again in 1875. The first French edition

appeared in 1685, and an English translation from this edition was

published in 1686. The first English version, by Hakluyt, entitled

_Virginia richly valued by the Description of the Mainland of

Florida_, appeared in 1609, and a reprint entitled _The worthye and

famous Historie of the Travailles, Discovery, and Conquest of Terra

Florida_, in 1611. A reprint from the latter, edited by William

B. Rye, was published by the Hakluyt Society in 1851. The version

of 1611 is included in Force's _Tracts_, Volume IV., 1846, and in

French's _Historical Collections of Louisiana_, Part 2. The English

translation by Buckingham Smith, which was published by the Bradford

Club in 1866, in a volume entitled _The Career of Hernando de Soto in

the Conquest of Florida_, is the latest and most authentic version.

It is this which is followed in the present volume. A reprint of

Smith's translation, edited by Professor Edward G. Bourne, was

published in 1904.

T. HAYES LEWIS.

THE NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION OF HERNANDO DE SOTO, BY THE GENTLEMAN

OF ELVAS

_True relation of the vicissitudes that attended the Governor

Don Hernando de Soto and some nobles of Portugal in the

discovery of the Province of Florida now just given by a Fidalgo

of Elvas. Viewed by the Lord Inquisitor._[223]

[223] From the title page of the original.

Fernando da Silveira, Senhor da Serzedas, great Poet and very

Illustrious, respecting the Material of this Book, and in Praise

of the Author.

EPIGRAM

He who would see the New World,

The Golden Pole,[224] the second,

Other seas, other lands,

Achievements great, and wars,

And such things attempted

As alarm and give pleasure,

Strike terror and lend delight;--

Read of the author this pleasing story,

Where nothing fabulous is told,

All worthy of being esteemed,

Read, considered, used.

[224] We inhabit the Northern Arctic Pole, and that people

inhabit the Southern Antarctic Pole. Golden Pole is used because

the region is rich. (Footnote in the original.)

ANDRÉ DE BURGOS[225] TO THE PRUDENT READER.

[225] The printer.

Aristotle writes that all, or at least most men, are given or prone

to look at and listen to novelties, especially when they are of

foreign or remote countries. These things, he says, enliven the

heavy while they give recreation to delicate and subtile minds, that

propensity moving men not only to see and hear, but, if possible,

to take part in occurrences. This desire exists in the Lusitanians

more than in any other people,--for two reasons: the one, because

they are very ingenious and warlike; the other, because they are by

nature great navigators, having discovered more land, with wider

sailing, than all the nations of the earth beside. So, it appearing

to me that I could do some little service to those who should read

this book, I resolved to imprint it, assured, beyond its being in the

Portuguese, that it is composed by a native, and likewise because

citizens of Elvas took part in the discovery, as the narrative will

itself disclose. What he has written I undoubtingly credit: he tells

no tales, nor speaks of fabulous things; and we may believe that

the author--having no interest in the matter--would not swerve from

truth. We have his assurance besides, that all he has set down passed

before him. Should the language, by chance, appear to you careless,

lay not the fault on me; I imprint and do not write. God be your

protector.

DISCOVERY OF FLORIDA

_Relation of the toils and hardships that attended Don Hernando

de Soto, governor of Florida, in the conquest of that country;

in which is set forth who he was, and also who were others

with him; containing some account of the peculiarities and

diversities of the country, of all that they saw and of what

befell them._

Chapter 1

_Who Soto was, and how he came to get the government of Florida._

Hernando de Soto was the son of an esquire of Xeréz de Badajóz, and

went to the Indias of the Ocean Sea, belonging to Castile, at the

time Pedrárias Dávila was the Governor. He had nothing more than

blade and buckler: for his courage and good qualities Pedrárias

appointed him to be captain of a troop of horse, and he went by his

order with Hernando Pizarro to conquer Peru.[226] According to the

report of many persons who were there, he distinguished himself

over all the captains and principal personages present, not only at

the seizure of Atabalípa, lord of Peru, and in carrying the City

of Cuzco, but at all other places wheresoever he went and found

resistance. Hence, apart from his share in the treasure of Atabalípa,

he got a good amount, bringing together in time, from portions

falling to his lot, one hundred and eighty thousand cruzados, which

he brought with him to Spain. Of this the Emperor borrowed a part,

which was paid; six hundred thousand reales[227] in duties on the

silks of Granada, and the rest at the Casa de Contratacion.[228]

[226] In 1531.

[227] Span. _real_, the eighth of a silver dollar.

[228] The India House, or Board of Trade, at Seville.

In Seville, Soto employed a superintendent of household, an usher,

pages, equerry, chamberlain, footmen, and all the other servants

requisite for the establishment of a gentleman. Thence he went to

Court, and while there was accompanied by Juan de Añasco of Seville,

Luis Moscoso de Alvarado, Nuño de Tobár, and Juan Rodriguez Lobillo.

All, except Añasco, came with him from Peru; and each brought

fourteen or fifteen thousand cruzados. They went well and costly

apparelled; and Soto, although by nature not profuse, as it was the

first time he was to show himself at Court, spent largely, and went

about closely attended by those I have named, by his dependents, and

by many others who there came about him. He married Doña Ysabel de

Bobadilla, daughter of Pedrárias Dávila, Count of Puñonrostro. The

Emperor made him Governor of the Island of Cuba and Adelantado of

Florida, with title of Marquis to a certain part of the territory he

should conquer.

Spanish Explorers in the Southern United States, 1528-1543. The Narrative of Alvar Nunez Cabeca de Vaca. The Narrative of the Expedition of Hernando De Soto by the Gentleman of Elvas · 第 1 / 46 章