CHAPTER I

Transcriber's Note: Bold text is surrounded by =equal signs= and italic

text is surrounded by _underscores_.

LOWNEY’S

COOK BOOK

_ILLUSTRATED IN COLORS_

A NEW GUIDE FOR THE HOUSEKEEPER, ESPECIALLY

INTENDED AS A FULL RECORD OF

DELICIOUS DISHES SUFFICIENT FOR ANY

WELL-TO-DO FAMILY, CLEAR ENOUGH FOR

THE BEGINNER, AND COMPLETE ENOUGH

FOR AMBITIOUS PROVIDERS

PREPARED AND REVISED BY

ONE OF THE MOST EXPERIENCED AND SUCCESSFUL TEACHERS OF

COOKING IN THE COUNTRY, AS THE LATEST FRUITS OF

PRACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC KNOWLEDGE OF THE ART

MARIA WILLETT HOWARD

_REVISED EDITION_

PUBLISHED BY

THE WALTER M. LOWNEY CO.

486 HANOVER STREET, BOSTON

1908

COPYRIGHT, 1907, 1908,

BY THE WALTER M. LOWNEY CO.

BOSTON.

Norwood Press

J. S. Cushing Co.—Berwick & Smith Co.

Norwood, Mass., U.S.A.

PREFACE TO REVISED EDITION

WE are giving the public in this new edition eighteen admirable colored

plates on three inserts which show the two most common methods of

cutting beef, a chapter on economical dishes, one on Southern or Creole

dishes, and about fifty new receipts, in addition to the same superfine

cook book that has been received with so much favor.

It is our aim to improve the book in every way and keep it abreast

of the times. No one—not even the United States government—has ever

attempted such expensive illustrations of cuts of meat, and we believe

they will be appreciated by every one who has occasion to order

provisions.

The price of the book remains the same, and we are glad to furnish a

greatly improved cook book of increased cost as our recognition of the

friendly attitude of the great public toward our goods.

THE WALTER M. LOWNEY CO.

BOSTON.

INTRODUCTION

WE present this cook book with confidence that it brings up to date

the modern possibilities of the table. It is prepared by a woman who

has devoted her life to scientific and artistic cooking, and who has

recently been honored by appointment to full charge of the culinary

department of one of the most advanced colleges for self-supporting

women in the country. She speaks with knowledge and authority.

We hope the book will contribute something to the fine art of living

in many homes, making those homes the happier and more attractive for

the husband and children, and solving many a problem for brides and

beginners.

Thousands of our most valued customers cannot afford to prepare many

of these dishes very often for their tables. But there are special

occasions when we all feel that we can have the best for ourselves and

our guests. This book will stand the strain of such occasions.

There are hundreds of simple dishes here for all tastes, suitable for

all pocket-books. With this book as a guide, it will be possible for

any woman to live within her means and still have that infinite variety

on the table which means so much for appetite and health, which we all

wish for and which we wish for you all.

THE WALTER M. LOWNEY CO.

BOSTON.

CONTENTS

PART I

PAGE

VALUE OF FOOD TO THE BODY 3

METHODS OF COOKING 7

JUST HOW 10

CARVING 15

MARKETING 18

DINNERS AND LUNCHEONS 25

BUTLER’S DUTIES 31

GARNISHINGS 32

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 33

PART II. RECEIPTS

CHAPTER

I. FIRST COURSE DISHES 37

II. SOUPS 42

III. FISH 69

IV. MEATS 82

V. VEGETABLES 103

VI. CEREALS 115

VII. EGGS 118

VIII. SAUCES FOR MEAT AND VEGETABLES 124

IX. ENTRÉES 134

X. BREAD 164

XI. SALADS 181

XII. SANDWICHES 197

XIII. DESSERTS 203

XIV. CAKE AND COOKIES; FROSTINGS AND FILLINGS 258

XV. FROZEN DISHES 293

XVI. BEVERAGES 306

XVII. FRUITS AND NUTS AND CANDY 313

XVIII. PRESERVING 318

XIX. CHAFING DISH DELICACIES 340

XX. COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND CONVALESCENT 349

XXI. CREOLE DISHES 360

XXII. ECONOMICAL RECEIPTS 372

BIBLIOGRAPHY 385

GLOSSARY 387

INDEX 389

PART I

VALUE OF FOOD TO THE BODY.

METHODS OF COOKING.

JUST HOW.

CARVING.

MARKETING.

DINNERS AND LUNCHEONS.

BUTLER’S DUTIES.

GARNISHING.

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.

PART I

VALUE OF FOOD TO THE BODY

“FOOD is that which when taken into the body tends either to build

tissue or to yield energy.”

The chief offices of food are to build the material of the body, to

repair the waste which is continually going on and to yield heat to

keep the body warm.

Foods may be divided into tissue-building foods and fuel foods.

The tissue-building foods are such foods as milk, eggs, cheese, wheat,

meat and the legumes. The fuel foods are sugars and starches and fats

and oils.

In order to keep the body in a good condition a combination of the

tissue-building foods and the fuel foods is necessary, with a supply of

water to dissolve them. About 125 grams of tissue-building foods and

550 grams of the fuel foods is the amount required daily. A mixed diet,

therefore, is the ideal diet for the healthy adult.

The changing of the tissues and the assimilation of food are very rapid

in childhood and youth, so that the system demands at that time an

abundant supply of such foods as meat, milk and eggs. When middle age

is reached, the amount of such food should be decreased. Otherwise the

tax on the organs which take care of the wastes will be so great that

disease will follow.

Thus it is clear that people of different ages require different

combinations and amounts of food. The kinds of food required to nourish

the healthy body vary also with the sex, occupation and climate, as

well as with the age and peculiarities of the individual. In order

to judge of the relative value of food to the body it is necessary

to find out what percentage of each nutritive constituent the food

contains, how much energy it is capable of yielding, how much of the

food eaten is digested, how much is absorbed, and whether the nutritive

constituents are obtained at a reasonable cost.

Farmers’ Bulletin No. 23, published by the United States Department of

Agriculture, will be found interesting to those caring to study foods

from the above standpoints.

Mr. W. O. Atwater, Ph. D., writes in Farmers’ Bulletin No. 142, on

“Food and Food Economy,” the following table:—

NUTRITIVE INGREDIENTS (OR NUTRIENTS) OF FOOD

{_Edible_ portion } Water

{_e.g._, flesh of meat } { Protein

Food as purchased {yolk and white of eggs } Nutrients { Fats

contains: {wheat, flour, etc. } { Carbohydrates

{_Refuse._ { Mineral matters

{_e.g._, bones, entrails,

shell, bran, cellulose,

etc.

USES OF NUTRIENTS IN THE BODY

_Protein_ Forms tissue }

_e.g._, white (albumen) of eggs }

curd (casein) of milk } All serve as

lean meat } fuel to yield

gluten of wheat, etc. } energy in the

_Fats_ Are stored as fat } forms of heat

_e.g._, fat of meat, butter, olive oil } and muscular

oils of corn, wheat, etc. } power.

_Carbohydrates_ Transformed into }

_e.g._, sugar, starch, etc. fat }

_Mineral Matters_ (ash) Share in forming bone, assist in

_e.g._, phosphates of lime digestion, etc.

potash, soda, etc.

Thus foods have different functions. The proteid or nitrogenous foods

build up and repair the tissues; mineral matter and water are also

necessary for this purpose. The tissues of the body cannot be kept in

a healthy state unless _these_ constituents of food are taken into

the system regularly; only the proteid foods can repair the waste

of the living tissue. The proteid foods, together with the fats and

carbohydrates, may supply both power and heat for the body, but the

special functions of the carbohydrates and fats are to keep the body

warm and to supply energy.

The amount of proteid food required for a healthy adult is very

difficult to determine. It is safe to state that too much proteid

brings about undue strain upon the digestive apparatus, and that too

little proteid reduces the working equipment of the body. The amount

of fats and carbohydrates needed depend largely upon occupation and

climate. The proteid foods are many, and contain the same chemical

elements as the bodies which they are destined to feed; also they seem

to be more completely taken care of in the body than the carbohydrate

foods. Milk, cheese, eggs, meat, and fish are proteid foods. Of these

milk is regarded as a typical food, as it contains all the nutritive

constituents required by the body,—proteid, carbohydrates, fats,

mineral matter, and water,—but it does not contain these constituents

in the correct proportion. It is too rich in proteid and fat and too

poor in carbohydrate to be a perfect food. It is a perfect food for

the infant, because an excess of proteid and of fat is needed for the

growth of the child. For the healthy man about eight pints daily would

be required for complete nutrition. This, it is apparent, would be a

very bulky food, and the system would be burdened with too large a

proportion of water. Milk, on the other hand, is the cheapest source

of proteid. It is claimed that one quart of good milk is equivalent

in proteid to a pound of beefsteak, and that when combined with the

correct proportion of carbohydrate food it possesses great nutritive

and economic value. All of the proteid foods are deficient in starch,

so must be combined with carbohydrates to properly nourish the body.

According to Mr. Atwater the proteid foods are more completely digested

than the carbohydrates. This is probably because there is found in all

carbohydrate foods a large proportion of cellulose or indigestible

material enveloping the starch and sugar. The nutritive value of the

carbohydrate foods is large if the starch and sugar, of which they are

composed, can be separated from the cellulose. The normal diet is one

which contains proteid foods, carbohydrate foods, fatty foods, with the

correct proportion of mineral matter and sufficient water to moisten

them.

The proper diet depends largely upon the occupation. People of

sedentary habits and brain workers need more digestible food than the

day laborer—therefore, the necessity of mixed diets; but diets should

be varied as well as mixed, and the true housekeeper in planning meals

thinks what was served at the preceding meal.

The cheapest diet is that which yields the largest amount of nutriment

for the least expenditure of money. The most economical diet is that

which is cheapest and at the same time best adapted to the needs of the

user. The most expensive diet is not necessarily the most nutritious.

Every good housekeeper should know approximately the composition of

the various foodstuffs, and so be able to make proper combinations of

foods and substitutions when necessary. Hunger and thirst are provided

by nature as guides in the choice of food, and if the bodily conditions

are normal, these, as a rule, are safe guides to follow.

The nutritive value of many foods depends upon how they are cooked.

Many raw foods are indigestible, but these same foods cooked are

nutritious. The importance of proper cooking cannot be overestimated.

Cooking changes the food so that the digestive juices can take care of

it; cooking improves the flavor and the appearance, thus making the

food more appetizing; and cooking kills disease germs, parasites, and

other dangerous organisms.

Proper cooking and dainty serving make even cheap foods more palatable.

This stimulates the digestive juices; hence food should be made

appetizing in order to obtain the greatest nutritive value from it.

METHODS OF COOKING

Boiling

Boiling point is the temperature at which a fluid is converted into

vapor, with the phenomenon of ebullition. The boiling point of water

is 212 degrees Fahrenheit. In cooking, the term _boiling_ means the

cooking of food in a boiling liquid, and water is the liquid generally

used. Rapidly boiling water is no hotter than when the agitation is

less, but in some cases, as in the boiling of rice, violently boiling

water is recommended for the purpose of keeping the grains of rice

separated. The boiling point of water once reached can be held with a

moderate amount of heat.

Food is generally boiled by putting immediately into boiling water.

This sears the surface, and keeps in the juices; but if the water is

to be used for soups, gravies, and so forth, the food is put into cold

water and brought slowly to the boiling point. Salt is added to the

boiling water ordinarily when cooking food, as it tends to keep the

flavor in the food.

Roasting

Roasting, truly speaking, is cooking food before an open fire, so that

roasting is seldom accomplished in modern kitchens.

Baking

Baking is cooking food by dry heat in an inclosed oven. The oven should

be very hot when the food is first put in, then the heat reduced.

In baking meats, basting frequently with hot fat will drive the heat to

the center and make the meat juicy.

Stewing

Stewing is cooking food in water kept below the boiling point, and is

similar to simmering.

Fricasseeing

Fricasseeing is a combination of sautéing and simmering. The food is

first sautéd and then simmered until tender.

Steaming

Moist steaming is accomplished by placing the food in a perforated dish

over a kettle of boiling water and cooking until tender.

Dry steaming is accomplished by placing the food in the top of a double

boiler and keeping the water boiling in the lower part until the food

is cooked.

Simmering

Simmering is cooking in water at 185 degrees Fahrenheit or 27 degrees

below the point of boiling. This method of cooking is employed where

long, slow cooking is desired, as in making stews, soups and so forth;

also for cooking tough cuts of meat.

As a rule, in both boiling and simmering, the kettle should be tightly

covered.

Braising

Braising is a form of cooking generally adopted for cooking tough

meats. The food to be braised is placed in a kettle with a few slices

of salt pork, some vegetables, seasonings and a small amount of liquid,

either water or stock. The kettle is then covered closely and the food

cooked until tender. Braising is a long, slow process.

Frying

Frying is cooking food in hot fat, deep enough to cover the food.

Lard, olive oil, cottolene or drippings may be used. The fat should be

heated hot enough to brown a piece of bread a golden brown in forty

seconds for cooked food, and in sixty seconds for uncooked food.

There are various theories about the digestibility of fried food. The

latest seems to be that food properly fried and drained may not be

very indigestible. To prepare fat for frying, fill frying kettle one

half full, and heat gradually. Avoid frying too much at a time, as the

temperature will be reduced and the food much more liable to absorb

fat. Reheat fat after each frying. Drain the food on brown paper.

Sautéing

Sautéing is cooking food in a frying pan in a small amount of fat. Food

is less digestible cooked in this way than fried food.

Broiling

Broiling is cooking the food on a greased broiler before hot coals or

the gas flame. The broiler should be held very near the flame at first

to sear the surface of the food, and should be turned every ten seconds

for the first minute of cooking, and afterwards occasionally.

Pan Broiling

Pan broiling is cooking the food in a hissing-hot frying pan without

fat. It is employed where it is impossible to broil, and may be better

accomplished where two frying pans are used, and the food turned from

one to the other every ten seconds for the first minute and afterwards

occasionally, as in broiling.

JUST HOW

How to Crumb, Egg and Crumb

For crumbing, dried bread crumbs which have been pounded or rolled

until fine and then sifted are best. The bread may be broken in pieces

and dried in the oven or merely allowed to stand in the open air until

dried.

To prepare the egg, break into soup plate, beat until yolk and white

are well blended, season with salt and pepper, dilute with two

tablespoons cold water and use for dipping.

Food to be fried should be dried as much as possible, then dipped in

crumbs, then placed in the egg, and thoroughly covered with the egg,

then drained and dipped again in crumbs.

It is an economy of time to crumb all of the pieces to be fried,

then egg all, and when drained, to crumb all. This may be done in

the morning and the food fried when wanted. In this case, allow the

prepared food to stand in kitchen fifteen or twenty minutes before

frying. When fried always drain on brown paper.

How to bone Meat, Fish, Birds

Legs and loins of lamb and mutton are the meats ordinarily boned. The

butcher will do it; but if it must be done at home, wipe the meat, and

with a sharp knife scrape the meat from the bone, being careful not to

cut through the skin. Fish to be boned generally have the heads cut

off; then remove the flesh from one side of the backbone, and then from

the other.

To bone birds, chickens, or turkeys, select undrawn birds, with head

and feet left on. Remove pin feathers and singe. Draw tendons from

legs by making an incision just below the knee joint, and with a

strong skewer draw the tendons out one at a time. Loosen the skin near

the feet and cut off feet. Make an incision through the skin from

the neck to the tail, the entire length of the backbone. Scrape the

flesh from the bones until the shoulder blade is found, then continue

scraping around the wing joint. Scrape down the backbone to the thigh,

then around the second joint and leg, cutting tendinous portion when

necessary. When one side of backbone is boned, bone the other, then

remove flesh from breastbone, on either side of bird. When flesh is all

separated from bone, discard carcass, wipe flesh and skin, and arrange

in original shape. The birds may be seasoned and broiled; or stuffed,

sewed into shape and steamed. Small birds are generally prepared the

former way, and large birds the latter way.

How to clarify Fat

When through frying, add a pared potato, cut in slices, to the fat, and

let stand on back of range until potato has browned. Remove potato and

strain fat through a cheese cloth. Fat clarified in this way may be

used indefinitely.

How to clarify Melted Butter

Let melted butter stand in a dish on back of the range until the salt

has settled, then pour off butter, leaving sediment in the bottom of

the dish.

How to avoid the Burning of Fat

When fat is put on the range to heat for frying, put in a cube of

bread. If the fat is forgotten, the bread will burn first, and the

odor of the burned crumb will attract the attention. The burned flavor

cannot be removed from burned fat.

How to try out Suet

Cut the suet in small pieces, place in top of double boiler, cover, and

cook over hot water until all the fat is tried out; strain through a

cheese cloth. This can be done in the oven if the top of the range is

crowded.

How to Lard

Larding is accomplished by cutting strips of salt pork lengthwise with

the rind two inches long and one quarter inch wide, and with aid of the

larding needle drawing these pieces through the surface of the meat,

taking a stitch an inch long and a quarter inch deep.

How to test Fat for Frying

Heat the fat. When a blue smoke begins to appear, drop in a cube of

bread; if the bread browns a golden brown in forty seconds, the fat is

hot enough for any food which has previously been cooked. Uncooked food

requires a longer, slower frying; the cube of bread should brown in

sixty seconds for such food.

Food cooked in fat tested in this way should never soak fat if one is

careful to put a small enough quantity of food in at a time—not enough

to cool the fat.

How to make Croquettes

For meat croquettes, cold cooked meat should be freed from skin and

gristle, and cut quite fine, then mixed with a thick sauce to as soft

a consistency as it is possible to handle. Chill before shaping. For

vegetable croquettes the vegetables should be boiled, then mashed and

seasoned. Chill before shaping.

_To Shape._—Allow one rounding tablespoon of croquette mixture for each

croquette, roll into a round ball, roll ball in crumbs, then shape

either like a cylinder or pyramid; when all are perfect and uniform,

dip in egg, then in crumbs.

How to prepare Sweetbreads

Soak in cold water from the time they come from the market until used.

Drain, cover with two cups cold water, add four cloves, one and a half

teaspoons salt, two tablespoons vinegar or lemon juice, and a slice of

onion; simmer for one half hour, drain, cover with cold water, remove

tubes and membranes. Broil whole; or if for larding, dip in egg, wrap

in cheese cloth, and press under weight over night.

How to care for the Refrigerator

Select a large refrigerator, of simple construction and of

hardwood,—the lining of zinc or marble and the shelves of slate or

hardwood.

To keep the refrigerator clean, remove instantly any food spilled in

any of the compartments. Wash the ice compartment and food chambers at

least once a week with hot soapsuds, and for economy’s sake do this

when the ice is low. Pour boiling water down the waste pipe. Sal soda

dissolved in the water tends to keep every part sweet and clean.

Shelves and all portable parts, when washed and scalded, should be

placed in the sun to dry; if this is impossible, dry before a fire.

Keep a good supply of ice in the ice chamber; it is cheaper in the end.

Never keep the doors or covers of the refrigerator open unnecessarily

long; it wastes the ice.

A good refrigerator properly cared for should last at least twenty-five

years.

How to Caramelize

Place sugar in clean agate-ware frying pan, and stir continually until

the sugar becomes a golden brown sirup.

How to Poach

Place food to be poached in frying pan half filled with boiling salted

water. Cook below the boiling point from three to eight minutes.

How to cream Butter

Place butter in bowl, and mash against the sides of the bowl, with a

spoon, until of a creamy consistency.

How to cut and Fold

Pour mixture into bowl, and cut through and through mixture with a

spoon, then take up some of mixture in spoon, and turn spoon completely

over, and fold under mixture. Continue this process until mixture is

blended.

How to crease Frosting

When frosting is nearly cold, cut with a silver knife, wiping knife

after making each crease.

CARVING

To master the art of carving one must understand the anatomy of the

meat to be carved.

The carver should insist upon having a sharp knife, a large platter,

and sufficient space to move his arms.

Whole Fish

The carving of fish is extremely simple. Run the knife the whole length

of the back, then cut from the back to the middle of the fish; the

flesh may then be separated from the bone. When one side is served,

turn the fish over and carve the other side in the same way.

The center of the fish is considered the best, as it is the fattest

portion. The meat around the head and neck is decidedly gelatinous.

Medium-sized fish, like mackerel, salmon, trout, and so forth, are cut

through the bone, thus giving a piece of fish on either side of the

backbone for each serving.

Small fish are generally served so as to make four fillets,—two fillets

on either side of the backbone.

Beef

For carving roast beef, a long, broad-bladed knife is required. Always

cut across the grain of the meat; never with the grain.

The joint of beef known as the Porterhouse roast or sirloin roast

consists of the sirloin, the tenderloin, and the flank. The flank is

tough, and if roasted with the meat, is generally used for some made

dish, such as croquettes, or hashed meat on toast; it is seldom carved

at the table.

The _tenderloin_ and _sirloin_ must be carved across the grain. Cut

thin slices parallel to the ribs or at right angles with the backbone,

then cut close to the backbone, thus separating the slices. Rib roasts

are carved in the same way as the sirloin.

_Rolled ribs_ and round of beef are carved in round slices as thin as

possible, each slice having considerable fat mixed with the lean.

_Beefsteaks_ are carved across the grain.

_Sirloin Steak._—Cut slices at right angles to the vertebræ in both the

sirloin and the tenderloin, then separate.

Lamb and Mutton

_A leg of mutton_ is considered by many the most difficult piece of

meat to carve. If the hip bone is removed, the carving of this joint is

simple, but it is usually left in. Place the leg on the platter, with

the skin side next the platter. Carve from the hip bone across the leg;

these will be the largest slices, as they come from the part of the

joint which has the most meat. The portions near the knuckle are to be

carved in the same way; they will not be so rare as the thicker slices.

Chops may be cut from the upper part of the leg.

_Fore Quarter of Mutton or Lamb._—Remove the fore leg and the shoulder,

then separate the rib chops. Every part of the fore quarter of lamb is

sweet and tender, but the neck in the fore quarter of mutton should

be used only for stewing. In carving the shoulder of either lamb or

mutton, one must study the meat before cooking.

_The Saddle of Mutton._—There are several ways of carving this joint.

The fat, tenderloin and kidney should all be removed in one piece.

The most popular way is to cut long slices parallel with the backbone,

on the portion nearest the tail, and slices diagonally on the portion

nearest the neck.

_The Loin of Mutton._—Generally this joint is carved by merely

separating the chops, but it may be carved in the same manner as the

saddle of mutton.

Veal

_Fillet of Veal._—This cut is carved like the round of beef.

_Shoulder of Veal._—The shoulder is often boned and stuffed. In that

case, cut through the meat from side to side. If the bone is left in,

carve in the same manner as the shoulder of mutton.

_Loin of Veal._—-This cut is often stuffed, and the kidney is always

cooked with the meat. Carve the same as the sirloin of beef, in large,

thin slices.

Pork

_Pork Spareribs._—Serve one rib to each person.

_Loin of Pork._—Chops may be carved and served, or the roast may be

carved exactly like the sirloin of beef.

_Roast Ham._—Cut through the meat to the bone, using the portion

nearest the knuckle first. Ham should be cut in very thin slices.

_Tongue._—The small end of the tongue is inferior to the thicker

portion. Cut slices crosswise of the tongue and serve a slice from both

portions to each person.

_Roast Pig._—Place the head of the pig at the right hand of the carver.

Cut off the ears, then the head; cut the head in halves. Cut the whole

length of the backbone, dividing the creature in two pieces.

Cut off the leg of one half, then separate the shoulder from the body.

Carve the ribs and loin at right angles with the backbone. Cut the

other half in the same way. Young pig meat is very tender and the bones

are soft, so that carving is an easy matter.

Poultry and Game

_To carve Poultry._—Place the bird on the platter, with the head to

the left and the side toward the carver. Insert the fork across the

center of the breastbone. Remove the wing, then the leg, then the

side bone between leg and body. Cut slices from the breast, running

from breastbone to place from which wing was removed. Remove wishbone

by cutting from end of breast to the left of the wing joint. Make an

incision to the right of breastbone for removing stuffing.

Remove fork from breastbone and cut the leg in small portions. Serve a

slice of light and a slice of dark meat to each person.

Serve one side of bird before carving the other side.

_Broiled Chicken._—Cut through the breast and cut in halves at right

angles with the top of leg. But if birds are small, serve one to each

person.

_To carve a Duck._—Cut off the wing and the leg the same as for

poultry. Cut the breast meat parallel with the breastbone, beginning at

the side between the wing joint and the thigh.

_To carve a Goose._—Carve in the same manner as a roast duck, but cut

the leg in several portions.

_Grouse and Partridge._—These birds are carved like duck, although

sometimes the breast is separated from the bone and one half breast is

served to each person.

Pigeons, quails, and small birds are served whole and generally on

toast.

MARKETING

The term _marketing_ means to the ordinary housekeeper the buying of

meats and vegetables only, but the buying of all articles necessary for

housekeeping should be included under this head.

[Illustration: PLATE A SIDE OF BEEF BOSTON CUTS

1 NECK

2 CHUCK RIB

3 PRIME RIB

4 SIRLOIN

5 BACK OF RUMP

6 MIDDLE OF RUMP

7 FACE OF RUMP

8 AITCH BONE

9 ROUND

10 VEIN

11 HIND SHIN

12 FLANK

13 RATTLE RAND

14 BRISKET

15 FORE SHIN]

In order to market well the housekeeper must know what articles to buy

in quantity and when to buy to the best advantage.

It is much more economical proportionately to buy for a large family

than for a small one.

[Illustration: PLATE B BOSTON CUTS

SIRLOIN ROAST

A SIRLOIN

B TENDERLOIN

C FLANK

D KIDNEY SUET

TIP OF SIRLOIN

RIB ROAST

TIP OF SIRLOIN

MIDDLE CUT OF SIRLOIN]

Staple articles such as bread flour, rice, spices, and so forth, should

be bought in large quantities. Vegetables which keep well, such as

potatoes, squashes, turnips, and so forth, should be bought in the

early fall to last until spring, provided there is a cool, dark place

in which to keep them. Meats must necessarily be purchased as needed,

unless one has a large refrigerator in which to hang them.

Fish, with the exception of salt or smoked kinds, should be bought only

when absolutely fresh. Fruits such as apples and pears may be bought in

large quantities, but perishable fruits in small amounts only.

Beef

The beef creature is first divided into halves the length of the

backbone, then each half is separated into the fore quarter and the

hind quarter.

In the fore quarter we have in Boston markets—

Parts How Cooked

Brains Stewed or Scalloped

Tongue Boiled, Fresh or Corned

Neck Stewed

Sticking Piece Stewed or Baked

Five Chuck Ribs Roasted or Broiled

Five Prime Ribs Roasted

Fore Shin Stewed

Rattle Rand }

} Corned Boiled

Brisket }

In the hind quarter we have in Boston markets—

Parts How Cooked

Sirloin Roasted or Broiled

Rump Roasted or Broiled

Round Roasted or Broiled

Hind Shin Stewed

Flank Braised or Boiled

Tail Stewed for Soups

Other parts of the beef creature used as food are—

Parts How Cooked

Heart Braised

Liver Braised, Fried, Sautéd

Kidneys Sautéd, Braised, Stewed

Tripe Stewed, Broiled, Fried

Suet Sautéd and used for Frying

A side of beef weighs on the average about 450 pounds.

Beef when first cut is dark purple, but turns red on exposure to the

air. Good beef has a heavy layer of fat on the outside, which is

yellowish white and crumbly; the inside fat is white. Best quality beef

has a large percentage of fat and a small proportion of water.

Description of Cuts of Beef

In the Boston markets, the part marked (4) in the side of beef in Plate

A has three ribs left on and the whole piece is called the sirloin. It

is divided by the butcher into the tip which has one muscle only, the

middle and the first cut. The fillet or tenderloin of beef is found

just under the first rib. It begins in a small point and increases

in thickness as it runs back. It ends in an obtuse point at the hip

bone. It is always covered with a thick bed of suet and the kidneys

are embedded in this suet at the end near the ribs. Sirloin roasts are

considered by many the best roasts. They are expensive cuts as they

contain considerable bone, and in a large creature, a large amount of

tough flank, but as they are tender, juicy and of good flavor they are

popular pieces.

[Illustration: PLATE C BOSTON CUTS

SIRLOIN OR PORTERHOUSE STEAK

A SIRLOIN

B TENDERLOIN

C FLANK

AITCH BONE

ROUND OF BEEF

A TOP ROUND

B BOTTOM ROUND

C VEIN

D SHIN

BACK OF RUMP

FACE OF RUMP

MIDDLE CUT OF RUMP]

Porterhouse Steaks are sirloin steaks cut from the sirloin nearest the

rump; they always have a large piece of tenderloin. They are generally

a few cents per pound more than the sirloin without the tenderloin.

Sirloin Steaks are cut from all parts of the loin.

The rump joins the sirloin as shown in Plate A. The back of the

rump is the best piece for roasting as it contains no bone; it is more

economical than the sirloin roasts, but as the flavor is different it

is not so popular. The middle and face of the rump are both used for

roasts, but are less juicy and tender than the back. Both of these

pieces are often used for beef à la mode.

[Illustration: PLATE D SIDE OF BEEF NEW YORK CUTS

1 NECK

2 CHUCK

3 RIB ROAST

4 LOIN

5 RUMP

6 ROUND

7 BOTTOM OF ROUND

8 HIND SHIN

9 FLANK

10 PLATE

11 NAVEL

12 CROSS RIBS

13 BRISKET

14 CLOD

15 FORE SHIN]

Rump Steaks are cut _with_ the grain of the meat and _across_ the

grain; the former are tough and the latter are generally tender and

juicy; they are cut from the part marked (5) in Plate A. In the cross

cut rump steak there is a piece of tenderloin.

The aitch bone, number (8) in Plate A, contains a large proportion of

bone; if a large roast is cut, a portion of the rump and a part of the

round is included, so considering the price, which is as many cents per

pound as there are pounds, it is not an expensive piece as it can be

used for a roast one day and made into a stew the next.

The round of beef as shown in Plate C is divided into the top and the

bottom. The top is used for steaks and roasts. The first few slices

are quite tender. The third slice is the best for steak as it has only

one muscle. The farther down the leg the steak is cut the tougher it

becomes. The bottom of the round must necessarily be tough because of

the large number of tendons. It may be easily distinguished from the

top as it contains two muscles. It is used principally for making beef

tea or Hamburg Steak.

The vein is used for roasting or braising. The meat is usually stringy

but of very good flavor.

The hind shin is used only for stews or soup stock. The fore shin

contains less meat but is sometimes used for the same purposes as the

hind shin. The pieces marked 12, 13, 14 in Plate A are usually corned.

Number (3) in Plate A is the rib roast. It contains five ribs, the

first three ribs being the best part of the piece. Number (2) in Plate

A is the chuck rib piece. This contains the shoulder blade and is

consequently tough. It is best for stews or braising, although it may

be used for roasting. The bones are frequently removed and the piece

tied into a round roast, but at best it is tough although the flavor is

good. The neck is used principally for soup stock, stews and beef tea.

[Illustration: PLATE E NEW YORK CUTS

RUMP OF BEEF

LOIN OF BEEF]

If we consult Plate D representing the New York cuts of beef, we find

that the part marked (3) is called the Rib Piece. The thirteen ribs are

left in this piece. It takes in part of what is called Sirloin in the

Boston markets. In New York the ribs are cut much longer than in Boston

and the price per pound is less, but as this gives a tough portion of

the flank, the cost, in reality, is just as great. The part marked (4)

is the sirloin and is used both for roasts and steaks. When there is

a large piece of tenderloin on the steak it is called a Porterhouse

Steak, but when there is only a small piece of tenderloin it is called

Short Steak or Delmonico Steak. From this cut nearest the rump we get

the hip bone, the flat bone, and the round bone steaks. There are three

round bone steaks, which are generally rather inferior. The flat bone

steaks are also three in number and better than the round bone steaks.

The hip bone steaks are the best of these three and contain a small

piece of tenderloin. The rump (5) is divided into two pieces, one piece

having the hip bone and the other the backbone. It is generally corned.

The round furnishes meat for steaks, which are of excellent flavor, but

not very tender. It also makes a good piece for braising. The bottom

of the round is a much poorer cut, it contains so many muscles and

tendons. It is tough and so only suitable for stock or beef tea.

The Cross Ribs, number (12), make a good roasting piece. It is

economical as it is solid meat, and it is quite tender as the

muscles all run in one direction. The Shoulder Clod, number (14), has

tendons running in all directions; it is consequently tough. It is used

for Hamburg Steak or for any dishes which require long slow cooking.

Numbers 9, 10, 11 and 13 are used for corning and numbers 8 and 15 are

used for soup stock.

[Illustration: PLATE F BOSTON CUTS

LEG OF LAMB

RIB AND LOIN CHOPS

A RIB CHOPS

B LOIN CHOPS

SIDE OF LAMB

FOREQUARTER OF LAMB]

Lamb and Mutton

Lamb and mutton are divided into halves, or “sides,” by cutting the

entire length of the backbone the same as beef.

The fore quarter is divided into the—

Parts How Cooked

Shoulder Boiled, Steamed, Roasted

Neck Stewed, Braised

The hind quarter is divided into the—

Parts How Cooked

Leg Roasted, Braised, Boiled

Loin Roasted, Broiled

Saddle Roasted

The best lamb is from a creature eight to twelve weeks old. Lamb may

always be distinguished from mutton by the inner redness of the bone.

Mutton should have a large amount of white hard fat, and the flesh

should be fine-grained and pink to red in color.

The strong mutton flavor may be lessened by removing the pink outer

skin, and also by taking off the caul before cooking the leg.

Veal

Veal is cut similarly to lamb.

The fore quarter is divided into—

Parts How Cooked

Head Boiled

Breast Stewed

Shoulder Stewed or Roasted

Ribs Stewed or Roasted

Neck Stewed

The hind quarter is divided into—

Parts How Cooked

Loin Stewed, Sautéd, Roasted, Broiled

Leg Stewed, Sautéd, Roasted

Other parts of the veal creature used as food—

Parts How Cooked

Tongue Boiled, Braised

Brains Stewed, Scalloped

Heart Baked, Braised

Liver Broiled, Sautéd

Kidneys Boiled, Stewed

Sweetbreads Stewed, Sautéd, Fried

The best veal is from a calf six to twelve weeks old. The meat should

be pinkish white, fine-grained, and tender, and there should be a large

amount of fine white fat on the legs and around the kidneys.

Pork

Fresh pork is not so popular a meat as corned or salted, although

fresh pork from a pig which has been carefully fed before killing is a

delicate meat.

The upper part of the fore legs, or the shoulders, and the upper parts

of the hind legs, or the hams, are salted and smoked. The sides of the

pork creature are salted and smoked for bacon.

The fat is removed from the loin and ribs, and these are sold for

roasts or chops; the fat is pickled and used for salt pork.

The head is used for making souse and cheese.

The feet are sold fresh or pickled.

The brains, livers, and kidneys are also used the same as those of

beef.

Poultry and Game

Poultry includes all domestic birds.

In buying poultry, select birds which have been freshly killed and

hand-picked.

Pin feathers are found on young birds, and hairs on older birds. The

birds should be short and plump, with considerable meat on the breast,

fat, but not too fat.

Young birds have the cartilage at the end of the breastbone soft and

pliable.

For roasting, buy poultry from three months to a year old. For

braising, stewing, and slower methods of cooking, buy older birds, as

they contain a larger proportion of meat than the younger birds.

Game includes animals that are hunted in field or forest.

Venison is cut like mutton. The meat is much darker than beef meat, and

the fat is whiter; it is cooked in the same ways as mutton.

Birds are sold with the feathers on, but have the market man remove

them. All game is expensive, and so is a delicacy. In buying game, that

which has hung three weeks or more is considered best.

DINNERS AND LUNCHEONS

The Formal Dinner

A formal dinner generally consists of ten courses, but may be eight or

twelve. In order to have one harmonious whole, the different courses

must blend well with each other. Avoid repetition; if oysters appear

in the first course, they must not appear again. Observe these two

points particularly in arranging the table: first, have the table

linen immaculate and without folds; and second, arrange the covers with

mathematical exactness.

The table may be square, oblong, or round; it must be covered with a

soft pad, and then with the tablecloth, which should hang over the

sides of the table at least one quarter of a yard on every side.

The selection of guests for a formal dinner is extremely important, and

the seating at the table so that all are congenial takes some time to

plan. Name cards should be placed at each cover. Each gentleman should

be given a card, on entering the dressing room, with the name of the

lady whom he is to escort to the dining room, and the letters R or L,

also on the card, indicating to the right or left of the hostess.

When dinner is announced, the host with the guest of honor leads the

way to the dining room, followed by the other men with their ladies,

and the hostess with the gentleman of honor brings up the rear. The

guests all stand behind their chairs until the hostess makes a move to

be seated; then the men push up the chairs for the ladies, each lady

seating herself from the left of her chair.

_The decoration_ of the table should be simple and low in design and in

the center of the table. A small flower may also be placed at the right

of each cover. Of course the colors of the flowers must harmonize with

the china, but otherwise individual taste should be exercised.

_The illumination_ of the table is most important. If candles are used,

they must be so arranged as not to interfere with the guests, and the

shades so placed that they will slip down as the candle burns. If

candle light is insufficient, try if possible to have the lights come

from the side rather than from above.

_The Cover._—The place for each guest and the necessary plate, silver,

glasses, knives, and napkin is called the cover.

_Arrangement of Cover._—Allow twenty inches for every person. Place

a ten-inch service plate, having decorations, right side up, in the

center of this space, and one and one half inches from the edge of the

table.

Arrange knives, edges toward plate, in the order in which they will

be needed, beginning at the right. At the right of knives, place soup

spoon, bowl up; at the right of soup spoon, the oyster fork, with tines

up; the other forks, with tines up, at the left of the plate, in the

order in which they will be needed, beginning with the extreme left.

If there are too many courses to admit of all the silver being put on

at once, extra silver may be placed at each cover just before serving

the course requiring it.

The glass for water should be placed just above the center of the

plate, to the right, the wineglasses to the right of the water glass,

in the order in which they are to be used. Place the napkins either to

the left of the forks, or over service plate. They should be so folded

as to hold a bread stick or dinner roll.

_The name card_ is generally placed on top of the napkin or over the

plate.

_Serving the Formal Dinner._—The dinner maybe served from the butler’s

pantry, having each course arranged on individual plates, and placed by

the waitress, on the right side of the guest, with the right hand, and

anything which is to be served with the course, passed on a tray to the

left of the guest and low enough and sufficiently near to the guest, to

be easily taken with the right hand. Served in this way, there is less

interruption to conversation.

Or each dish may be so arranged on a platter or serving dish on a

tray that the guest may easily serve himself. Served in this way, the

waitress places plates before each guest before passing the courses.

At present the service plate is quite universally used; that is, the

space in front of the guest is always occupied with a plate. When

the waitress removes the course plate with the left hand, she places

another plate with the right hand. In this way of serving, the tray,

if used at all, is only used when the food is passed, not for removing

dishes.

_Removal of Courses._—When every one has finished, the waitress removes

one plate at a time, beginning with the hostess or with the guest at

the right of the hostess.

Before the dessert, everything not needed for this course should

be removed from the table; if there are crumbs, they should be

carefully brushed with a napkin on to a plate or tray. After this

is accomplished, place the dessert dishes from the right. While the

dessert is being eaten, the finger bowl, filled one third full of tepid

water, with a slice of lemon or a geranium leaf or a flower in it, set

on a doily on a plate, may be placed in front of and above the dessert

plate. When the dessert plate is removed, the finger bowl is moved into

the space. If fruit follows the dessert, the guest removes the finger

bowl and doily from the plate and uses that plate for the fruit.

If coffee is served in the dining room, the finger bowls are not placed

until after the coffee, but coffee is usually served in the drawing

room.

_Order of Service._—The guests on the right of the host and hostess are

served first in the first course, in the second course the guests on

the left, in the third course the second guest on the right of the host

and hostess, and so on in rotation, so that no guest is served twice

first. Some hostesses insist upon being served first. If the different

courses are passed rather than served from the butler’s pantry, this

may be a good plan, but otherwise there seems to be no reason for it.

MENU FOR A FORMAL DINNER

First Course

Oysters or Clams in Shells Brown Bread Sandwiches

Second Course

Consommé Croûtons

Third Course

Broiled Trout—Maître d’hôtel Butter

Cucumbers

Fourth Course

Croquettes or Sweetbreads

Fifth Course

Saddle of Mutton Currant Jelly Potatoes

Peas in Fontage Cups

Sixth Course

Punch

Seventh Course

Broiled Quail with Chestnut Purée Tomato Salad

Eighth Course

Bombe Glacé Sponge Cake

Ninth Course

Fruit and Bonbons

Tenth Course

Black Coffee

Salted almonds and bonbons to be on the table all the time.

Celery to be passed with oysters.

Radishes or olives to be passed with fish course.

When and How to serve Wines

Sauterne slightly cold with oysters.

Sherry slightly cold with soup.

Rhine Wine not very cold with fish.

Claret slightly cold with entrées.

Champagne very cold with poultry and meats.

Burgundy a little warm with game.

Burgundy and Champagne with salads.

Port Wine or Madeira temperature of wine cellar with desserts.

Cordials and brandies with coffee.

Courses

_First Course._—Appetizers, cold hors-d’œuvres, eaten preliminary to

the dinner, supposed to stimulate the flow of the digestive juices and

create an appetite.

_Second Course._—Oysters or Shellfish. Salt, pepper, cayenne, Tabasco

sauce, and tiny brown-bread sandwiches are passed with this course.

_Third Course._—A Clear Soup. Hors-d’œuvres, such as celery, olives,

radishes, or pimolas are passed with this course.

_Fourth Course._—Fish, boiled, fried, or baked; sometimes potatoes, and

generally cucumbers or tomatoes dressed, are served.

_Fifth Course._—Entrées.

_Sixth Course._—The Meat Course, one vegetable besides the potato.

_Seventh Course._—Frozen Punches or Cheese Dishes.

_Eighth Course._—Game or Poultry and Salad.

_Ninth Course._—Hot Desserts or Cold Desserts.

_Tenth Course._—Frozen Desserts, Cakes, and Preserves may be passed

with this course.

_Eleventh Course._—Fruits.

_Twelfth Course._—Coffee and Liqueurs.

The Informal Dinner

The hostess serves the soup, and the host the fish and the roast.

Vegetables, sauces, and entrées are served from the side.

Either the host or hostess makes the salad, and the hostess serves the

dessert and the coffee.

The cover is arranged the same as for the Formal Dinner.

The Formal Luncheon

The table may be covered or bare. If bare, use doilies for plates and

glasses.

The arrangement of the cover is the same as for the Formal Dinner.

Lighter dishes are served for luncheon than for dinner; entrées take

the place of the roast.

Soup or bouillon is served in cups. Fruit may be served for the first

course instead of canapés.

The hostess sometimes serves the salad and the coffee, but it is better

to have all serving from the side.

The Formal Breakfast

This really is the same as the Formal Luncheon except that men are

invited with the ladies, and coffee is served throughout the meal.

The Informal Luncheon

Like the Informal Dinner except that the roasts are omitted.

When luncheon is announced, the first course may be on the table, and

the dishes required for the remaining courses arranged on the side

table.

Seldom more than three courses are served.

Tea, coffee, or cocoa are served throughout the meal.

BUTLER’S DUTIES

A butler is generally given full charge of the dining room, as well as

of the other men servants.

He waits on the table at breakfast, usually alone; but if the family is

large or there are guests present, he may be assisted.

He directs the washing of dishes and the cleaning of the silver. He

prepares the salad. He attends to the bell, to the fires, to the

lighting of the house. He makes and serves afternoon tea and sets the

table for dinner.

He announces all the meals, serves the dinner, does all the carving.

If he is assisted, he serves the principal dishes, and the assistant

serves the vegetables and sauces.

He is responsible for the safety of the silver, for the arrangement

of the flowers and fruits, and for the proper serving of the wines.

He has full charge of all refreshments served in the evening and is

responsible for the locking of the house at night.

He alternates with the footman or waitress in answering the bell in the

evening.

GARNISHINGS

It has been said that “what appeals to the eye generally appeals to the

palate.”

Use care and taste in serving; dainty service will make the simplest

food most attractive.

Never allow any food which looks unsightly to be served. Toasted bread,

burned on one side, may take away the appetite, but toasted a golden

brown on both sides, with crusts cut off and then cut in strips and

served in between the folds of a fresh doily, will appeal to the most

fastidious.

Parsley is always used to garnish meats. Meats should be skewered into

shapely pieces before being cooked, and served on dishes to display

them well.

Steaks and chops should be trimmed before cooking, then broiled evenly

on all sides—never burned.

Rib chops should be garnished with chop frills.

Slices of lemon, hard-cooked eggs cut in strips, chopped pickles, and

parsley are used for garnishing fish.

Cold sweet dishes are garnished mostly with jellies cut in cubes, and

candied fruits, red cherries, and angelica being the most popular.

Nuts and raisins are also used.

Ice creams are garnished with meringues and spun sugar.

Cakes are garnished with nuts and plain and fancy frostings put through

a pastry bag and tube.

Whatever garnishing is used, avoid overdoing the matter; the simplest

is always the most attractive.

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

4 gills make 1 pint

2 pints make 1 quart

4 quarts make 1 gallon

1 measuring cup = 2 gills

4 measuring cups = 1 quart

2 measuring cups = 1 pint

All measures in this book are level.

To measure a spoonful of dry material fill spoon and level off with a

knife.

One half spoonful is measured by cutting one spoonful through

lengthwise.

Table of Measures

3 teaspoons = 1 tablespoon

4 tablespoons = ¼ cup

2 tablespoons butter = 1 ounce

1 cup solid butter = ½ pound

2 cups flour = ½ pound

9 large eggs = 1 pound

Table of Proportions

1 cup liquid to 3 cups flour for bread

1 cup liquid to 2 cups flour for muffins

1 cup liquid to 1 cup flour for batters

1 teaspoon soda to 1 pint sour milk

1 teaspoon soda to 1 cup molasses

¼ teaspoon salt to 4 cups custard

2 teaspoons salt to 4 cups water

¼ teaspoon salt to 1 cup white sauce

⅛ teaspoon pepper to 1 cup white sauce.

PART II

RECEIPTS

PART II

CHAPTER I

FIRST-COURSE DISHES

Canapés

Canapés are made from white, graham, and brown bread, sliced very thin

and cut in various shapes. They may be dipped in melted butter, toasted

or fried. The slices may be covered with any of the following mixtures.

Served hot or cold.

Anchovy Canapés

Cut bread in slices one quarter inch thick, cut in circles, dip in

melted butter, sprinkle with salt and cayenne, spread with anchovy

paste, and sprinkle with a few drops of lemon juice.

Caviare Canapés

Cut bread in quarter-inch slices, cut slices four inches long and two

inches wide. Fry in deep fat, or toast. Spread toast with caviare

paste, sprinkle with a few drops of lemon juice and paprika. Garnish

with finely chopped green or red pepper.

Cheese Canapés

Cut bread in quarter-inch slices, spread lightly with French mustard,

sprinkle with grated cheese and finely chopped olives. Or brown in oven

before sprinkling with olives.

Crab Canapés

Cut bread in slices one quarter inch thick, three inches long, and one

inch and a half wide. Spread with butter and brown in oven. Mix one cup

chopped crab meat, one tablespoon lemon juice, two drops Tabasco, one

half teaspoon salt, a few drops of onion juice, and two tablespoons

olive oil. Mark the bread diagonally in four sections and spread them

alternately with melted cheese and crab mixture. Separate sections with

finely chopped pimento.

Bacon Canapés

Cut bread in triangles one fourth inch thick, sauté in bacon fat.

Spread with French mustard, cover with cooked bacon finely chopped, and

sprinkle with finely chopped pimolas.

Ham Canapés

Cut bread in slices one quarter inch thick, then in circles. Sauté in

butter. Spread with finely chopped ham mixed to a paste with creamed

butter and seasoned highly. Sprinkle with finely chopped, hard-cooked

eggs.

Lobster Canapés

Cut bread in one-fourth-inch slices; shape with doughnut cutter. Cream

two tablespoons butter, add one cup finely chopped lobster meat, one

teaspoon mustard, few drops Worcestershire sauce, few grains cayenne,

and six olives finely chopped. Sauté bread in butter and spread with

above mixture.

Salmon Canapés

Shape bread, cut one fourth inch thick, with a cooky cutter. Spread

with butter and brown in the oven. Arrange around the outer edge of the

circle finely chopped truffles. Next finely chopped white of egg. Next

yolk of egg which has been pressed through a sieve. Then finely flaked

salmon. Garnish salmon with a small sprig of parsley.

Just before serving pour over a few drops of olive oil or place a

teaspoonful of mayonnaise on the salmon.

Sardine Canapés

Cut brown bread in circles, spread with butter, and heat in the oven.

Pound sardines to a paste, add an equal amount of finely chopped,

hard-cooked eggs, season with lemon juice and Worcestershire sauce.

Spread on brown bread. Garnish each canapé in the center with a circle

of hard-cooked white of egg capped with a teaspoonful hard-cooked yolk.

Tomato and Cucumber Canapés

Fry circles of bread in deep fat. Fry slices of tomato in deep fat.

Place one slice of tomato on each circle of bread. Sprinkle with

salt and pepper. Garnish each slice with one slice of cucumber and

hard-cooked white of egg cut in shape of petal, to represent a daisy.

Nut and Olive Canapés

Cut bread in crescents. Fry in deep fat. Mix equal quantities of

chopped nuts and olives, with enough mayonnaise dressing to spread.

Spread on fried bread, and garnish with small diamonds of pimentoes.

Tongue Canapés

Toast triangles of graham bread, spread with butter. Cut slices of

cooked tongue in small pieces, mix with creamed butter to a paste, add

two tablespoons capers to each half cup of tongue. Spread on bread.

Sprinkle with salt and cayenne, and garnish with chopped water cress.

Clam Cocktail

1 pint small clams

2 tablespoons Worcestershire Sauce

2 tablespoons vinegar

3 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon tomato catsup

1 tablespoon horse-radish

1 teaspoon salt

few grains cayenne

few drops Tabasco

Place clams in shallow dish after removing the black parts. Mix other

ingredients. Pour over clams, and let stand for several hours. Serve

ice cold in small glasses, as a first course.

The clams may be mixed with the sauce and served in halves of grape

fruit, in lemon shells, or tomato cups. Set on a bed of ice.

Oyster Cocktail

Follow receipt for Clam Cocktail, using one pint small oysters drained

from their liquor in place of clams.

Shrimp Cocktail

Substitute one pint shrimps for clams, and proceed as for Clam Cocktail.

Lobster Cocktail

meat from 2-pound lobster

2 tablespoons sherry wine

2 tablespoons tomato catsup

1 tablespoon horse-radish

1 teaspoon salt

few grains cayenne

1 tablespoon chopped olives

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Cut lobster meat in small pieces and place in shallow dish. Mix other

ingredients. Pour over lobster meat and let stand one hour. Serve ice

cold in cocktail glasses; just before sending to table sprinkle with

powdered lobster coral.

Oysters on Half Shell

30 oysters in the shell

6 teaspoons grated horse-radish

¼ teaspoon salt

cayenne

3 lemons cut in halves

6 teaspoons vinegar

1 tablespoon tomato catsup

paprika

parsley

Open oysters; loosen. Serve in shell on bed of ice, having the small

ends of the shell point toward the center of the dish. Wash lemons,

cut in halves, remove seeds, and serve one half in the center of each

plate. Garnish with parsley. Mix horseradish, salt, vinegar, and tomato

catsup, seasoned with paprika and cayenne. Serve in small glass dish

and pass to each person.

Clams on Half Shell

Follow receipt for Oysters on Half Shell, substituting clams.

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