CHAPTER X.

The Revolution of '48 -- The beginning of it -- The National

Guards in all their glory -- The Cafe Gregoire on the Place du

Caire -- The price of a good breakfast in '48 -- The palmy days

of the Cuisine Bourgeoise -- The excitement on the Boulevards on

Sunday, February 20th, '48 -- The theatres -- A ball at

Poirson's, the erstwhile director of the Gymnase -- A lull in the

storm -- Tuesday, February 22nd -- Another visit to the Cafe

Gregoire -- On my way thither -- The Comedie-Francaise closes its

doors -- What it means, according to my old tutor -- We are

waited upon by a sergeant and corporal -- We are no longer

"messieurs," but "citoyens" -- An eye to the main chance -- The

patriots do a bit of business in tricolour cockades -- The

company marches away -- Casualties -- "Le patriotisme" means the

difference between the louis d'or and the ecu of three francs --

The company bivouacs on the Boulevard Saint-Martin -- A tyrant's

victim "_malgre lui_" -- Wednesday, February 23rd -- The Cafe

Gregoire once more -- The National Guards _en neglige_ -- A novel

mode of settling accounts -- The National Guards fortify the

inner man -- A bivouac on the Boulevard du Temple -- A camp scene

from an opera -- I leave -- My companion's account -- The

National Guards protect the regulars -- The author of these notes

goes to the theatre -- The Gymnase and the Varietes on the eve of

the Revolution -- Bouffe and Dejazet -- Thursday, February 24th,

'48 -- The Boulevards at 9.30 a.m. -- No milk -- The

Revolutionaries do without it -- The Place du Carrousel -- The

sovereign people fire from the roofs on the troops -- The troops

do not dislodge them -- The King reviews the troops -- The

apparent inactivity of Louis-Philippe's sons -- A theory about

the difference in bloodshed -- One of the three ugliest men in

France comes to see the King -- Seditious cries -- The King

abdicates -- Chaos -- The sacking of the Tuileries -- Receptions

and feasting in the Galerie de Diane -- "Du cafe pour nous, des

cigarettes pour les dames" -- The dresses of the princesses --

The bourgeois feast the gamins who guard the barricades -- The

Republic proclaimed -- The riff-raff insist upon illuminations --

An actor promoted to the Governorship of the Hotel de Ville --

Some members of the "provisional Government" at work -- Mery on

Lamartine -- Why the latter proclaimed the Republic.

I was returning home earlier than usual on Saturday night, the 19th of

February, '48, when, at the corner of the Rue Lafitte, I happened to run

against a young Englishman who had been established for some years in

Paris as the representative of his father, a wealthy cotton-spinner in

the north. We had frequently met before, and a cordial feeling had

sprung up between us, based at first--I am bound to say--on our common

contempt for the vanity of the French.

"Come and breakfast with me to-morrow morning," he said; "I fancy you

will enjoy yourself. We will breakfast in my quarter, and you will see

the National Guards in all their glory. They will muster very strong

to-morrow, if it be fine."

"But why to-morrow?" I replied. "I was under the impression that the

idea of the Reformist banquet in the Champs-Elysees had been abandoned,

so there will be no occasion for them to parade? Besides, that would be

on Tuesday only."

"It has been abandoned, but if you think that it will prevent them from

turning out, you are very much mistaken; at any rate, come and listen to

the preliminaries."

I promised him to come, but I had not the slightest idea that I was

going to witness a kind of mild prologue to a revolution.

Next morning turned out very fine--balmy spring weather--and as I

sauntered along the Boulevards Montmartre and Poissonniere to the place

of appointment the streets were already crowded with people in their

Sunday clothes. The place where I was to meet my English friend was

situated in the midst of a busy quarter, scarcely anything but

warehouses where they sold laces, and flowers, and silks; something like

the neighbourhood at the back of Cheapside. The wealthy tradesmen of

those days did not live in the outskirts of Paris, as they did later on;

and when my friend and I reached the principal cafe and restaurant on

the Place du Caire--I think it was called the Cafe Gregoire--there was

scarcely a table vacant. The habitues were, almost to a man, National

Guards, prosperous business men, considerably more anxious, as I found

out in a short time, to play a political part than to maintain public

tranquillity. If I remember rightly, one of them, a chemist and

druggist, who was pointed out to me then, became a deputy after the fall

of the Second Empire; and I may notice en passant that this same spot

was the political hothouse which produced, afterwards, Monsieur Tirard,

who started life as a small manufacturer of imitation jewellery, and who

rose to be Minister of Finances under the Third Republic.

The breakfast was simply excellent, the wine genuine throughout, the

coffee and cognac all that could be wished; and, when I asked my friend

to let me look at the bill, out of simple curiosity, or, rather, for the

sake of comparing prices with those of the Cafes de Paris and Riche, I

found that he had spent something less than eleven francs. At the Cafe

Riche it would have been twenty-five francs, and, at the present time,

one would be charged double that sum. These were the palmy days of the

Cuisine Francaise, or, to call it by another name, the Cuisine

Bourgeoise, for which, a few years later, a stranger in Paris would have

almost sought in vain. Luckily, however, for my enjoyment and digestive

organs, I was no stranger to Paris and to the French; if I had been,

both the former would have been spoilt, the excitement of those around

me being such as to lead the alien to believe that there would be an

instantaneous departure for the Tuileries, and a revival of the bloody

scenes of the first revolution. It has been my lot, in after-years, to

hear a great deal of political drivel in French and English, but it was

sound philosophy compared to what I heard that morning. I have spoken

before of the Hotel des Haricots, where men like Hugo, Balzac, Beranger,

and Alfred de Musset chose to be imprisoned rather than perform their

_duties_ as National Guards. After that, I could fully appreciate their

reluctance to be confounded with such a set of pompous wind-bags.

It came to nothing that day, but I had become interested, and made an

appointment with my friend for the Tuesday, unless something should

happen in the interval. Still, I did not think that the monarchy of July

was doomed, though, on returning to the Boulevards, I could not help

noticing that the excitement had considerably increased during the time

I had been at breakfast. By twelve o'clock that night I was convinced

that I had been mistaken, and that the dynasty of the D'Orleans had not

a week to live. All the theatres were still open, but I had an

invitation to a ball, given by Poirson, the then late director of the

Gymnase Theatre, at his house in the Faubourg Poissonniere. "Nous ne

danserons plus jamais sous Louis-Philippe!" was the general cry, which

did not prevent the guests from thoroughly enjoying themselves.

Next morning, Monday, there seemed to be a lull in the storm, but on the

Tuesday the signs of the coming hurricane were plainly visible on the

horizon. The Ministry of Marine was guarded by a company of linesmen. I

had some business in the Rue de Rivoli, which at that time ended almost

abruptly at the Louvre; and, on my way to the Cafe Gregoire, I met

patrol upon patrol of National Guards beating the "assembly." I had

occasion to pass before the Comedie-Francaise. The ominous

black-lettered slip of yellow paper, with the word _Relache_, was pasted

across the evening's bill. That was enough for me. I remembered the

words of my old tutor: "When the Comedie-Francaise shuts its doors in

perilous times, it is like the battening down of the hatches in dirty

weather. There is mischief brewing." When I got to the Place du Caire, I

was virtually in the thick of it. With the exception of my friend and I,

there was not a man in mufti. Even the proprietor had donned his

uniform. Our fillet of beef was brought to us by a corporal, and our

coffee poured out by a sergeant. Whether these warrior-waiters meant to

strike one blow for freedom and to leave the place to take care of

itself, we were unable to make out; but their patrons were no longer

"messieurs," but had already become "citoyens." I was tempted to say, in

the words of Dupin--the one who was President of the Chamber on the day

of the Coup d'Etat, and who was Louis-Philippe's personal friend,

"Soyons citoyens, mais restons messieurs," but I thought it better not.

My friend had given up all idea of attending to business. "It will not

be of the least use," he said. "If I had ribbons to sell instead of

cottons, I might make a lot of money, though; for I am open to wager

that some of our patriotic neighbours, while they are going to bell the

cat outside, have given orders to their workpeople to manufacture

tricolour cockades and rosettes with the magic R. F. (Republique

Francaise) in the centre."

"You do not mean that they would think of such a thing at such a

critical moment, even if the republic were a greater probability than it

appears to be?" I remonstrated.

"I do mean to say so," he replied, beckoning at the same time to a

sleek, corpulent lieutenant, standing a few paces away. "Can you do with

a nice lot of narrow silk ribbon?" he asked, as the individual walked up

to our table.

"What colour?" inquired the lieutenant.

My friend gave me a significant look, and named all the hues of the

rainbow except white, red, and blue.

"Won't do," said the lieutenant, shaking his head. "If it had been red,

white, and blue I would have bought as much as you like, because I am

manufacturing rosettes for the good cause." After this he walked away.

On the Thursday afternoon the Boulevards and principal thoroughfares

swarmed with peripatetic vendors of the republican insignia, and some

of my friends expressed their surprise as to where they had come from in

so short a time. Seeing that they were Frenchmen, I held my tongue, even

when one professed to explain, "They have come from England; they are

always speculating upon our misfortunes, though they do it cleverly

enough. They got scent of what was coming, and sent them over as quickly

as they could. Truly they are a great nation--of shopkeepers!" I was

reminded of Beranger's scapegrace, when he was accused of being drunk.

"Qu'est que cela me fait, a moi?

Que l'on m'appelle ivrogne?"

he sings.

As the afternoon wore on, the excitement increased; the news from the

Boulevards became alarming, and at about three o'clock the company

marched away. As a matter of course we followed, and equally, as a

matter of course, did not leave them until 2.30 next morning. Casualties

to report. A large scratch in one of the drummer's cheeks, made by an

oyster-shell, flung at the company as it turned round the corner of the

Rue de Clery. No battles, no skirmishes, a great deal of fraternizing

with "le peuple souverain," whom, in their own employ, the well-to-do

tradesmen would have ordered about like so many mangy curs.

From that day forth I have never dipped into any history of modern

France, professing to deal with the political causes and effects of the

various upheavals during the nineteenth century in France. They may be

worth reading; I do not say that they are not. I have preferred to look

at the men who instigated those disorders, and have come to the

conclusion that, had each of them been born with five or ten thousand a

year, their names would have been absolutely wanting in connection with

them. This does not mean that the disorders would not have taken place,

but they would have always been led by men in want of five or ten

thousand a year. On the other hand, if the D'Orleans family had been

less wealthy than they are there would have been no firmly settled third

republic; if Louis-Napoleon had been less poor, there would, in all

probability, have been no second empire; if the latter had lasted

another year, we should have found Gambetta among the ministers of

Napoleon III., just like Emile Ollivier, of the "light heart." "Les

convictions politiques en France sont basees sur le fait que le louis

d'or vaut sept fois plus que l'ecu de trois francs." This is the dictum

of a man who never wished to be anything, who steadfastly refused all

offers to enter the arena of public life.

My friend and I had been baulked of the drama we expected--for we

frankly confessed to one another that the utter annihilation of that

company of National Guards would have left us perfectly unmoved,--and

got instead, a kind of first act of a military spectacular play, such as

we were in the habit of seeing at Franconi's. The civic warriors were

ostensibly bivouacking on the Boulevard St. Martin; they stacked their

muskets and fraternized with the crowd; it would not have surprised us

in the least to see a troupe of ballet dancers advance into our midst

and give us the entertainment de rigueur--the intermede. It was the only

thing wanting to complete the picture, from which even the low comedy

incident was not wanting. An old woebegone creature, evidently the worse

for liquor, had fallen down while a patrol of regulars was passing. He

was not a bit hurt; but there and then the rabble proposed to carry him

to the Hotel de Ville, and to give him an apotheosis as a martyr to the

cause. They had already fetched a stretcher, and were, notwithstanding

his violent struggles, hoisting him on it, when prevented by the captain

of the National Guards.

Still, we returned next day to the Cafe Gregoire. In the middle of the

place there lay an old man--that one, stark dead, who had been fired

upon without rhyme or reason by a picket of the National Guards. It was

only about eleven o'clock, and those valiant defenders of public order

were still resting from their fatigue--at any rate, there were few of

them about. There was a discussion going on whether they should go out

or not--a discussion confined to the captain, two lieutenants, and as

many sub-lieutenants. They appeared not to have the least idea of the

necessity to refer for orders to the colonel or the head-quarters of the

regiment or the legion, as it was called. They meant to settle the

matter among themselves. The great argument in favour of calling out the

men was that one of them, while standing at his window that very

morning, was fired at by a passing ragamuffin, who, instead of hitting

him, shattered his windowpanes.

"Well," said one of the lieutenants, who had been opposed to the calling

out of the men, "then we are quits after all; for look at the old fellow

lying out there."

"No, we are not," retorts the captain; "for he was shot by a mistake, so

he doesn't count."

"L'esprit ne perd jamais ses droits en France;" so, in another moment or

two, the bugle sounded lustily throughout the quarter. We followed the

buglers for a little while, it being still too early for our breakfast,

and consequently enjoyed the felicity of seeing a good many of the

warriors "in their habit as they lived" indoors--namely, in

dressing-gown and slippers and smoking-caps. For most of them opened

their windows on the first, second, and third floors, to inquire whether

the call was urgent. The buglers entered into explanations. No, the call

was not urgent, but the captain had decided on a military promenade,

just to reassure the neighbourhood, and to stimulate the martial spirit

of the lagging members of the company. The explanation invariably

provoked the same answer, and in a voice not that of the

citizen-warrior: "Que le capitaine attende jusqu'apres le dejeuner."

Davoust has said that the first condition of the fitness of an army is

its commissariat. In that respect every one of these National Guards was

fit to be a Davoust, for their fortifying of the inner man was not

accomplished until close upon two o'clock. By that time they marched

out, saluted by the cries of "Vive la Reforme!" of all the ragtag and

bobtail from the Faubourgs du Temple and St. Antoine, who had invaded

the principal thoroughfares. The "Marseillaise," the "Chant des

Girondins," "La Republique nous appelle" resounded through the air; and

I was wondering whether they were packing their trunks at the Tuileries,

also what these National Guards had come out for. They only seemed to

impede the efficient patrolling of the streets by the regulars, and,

instead of dispersing the rabble, they attracted them. They were

evidently under the impression that they made a very goodly show, and at

every word of command I expected to see the captain burst asunder. When

we got to the Boulevard St. Martin, the latter was told that the sixth

legion was stationed on the Boulevard du Temple. A move was made in that

direction.

Now "Richard is himself again;" he is among the crowd he likes best--the

crowd of the Boulevard du Crime, with its theatres, large and small, its

raree and puppet shows, its open-air entertainments, its cafes and

mountebanks; and, what is more, he is there in his uniform,

distinguished from the rest, and consequently the cynosure of all the

little actresses and pretty _figurantes_ who have just left the

rehearsal--for by this time it is after three--and who are but too

willing to be entertained. Appointments are made to dine or to sup

together, without the slightest reference as to what may happen in the

interval. All at once there is an outcry and a rush towards the Porte

Saint-Martin; our warriors are obliged to leave their inamoratas, and

when they come to look for their muskets, which they have placed in a

corner for convenience' sake, they find that a good many have

disappeared. The customers belonging to the sovereign people have slunk

off with them. Nevertheless they join the ranks, for the bugle has

sounded. At the corner of the Faubourg Saint-Martin, whence the noise

proceeded, they are met by three or four score of the sovereign people,

ragged, unkempt, who are pushing in front of them two of the students of

the Ecole Polytechnique. The two young fellows are very pale, and can

scarcely speak. Still they manage to explain that the Municipal Guard at

the Saint-Martin barracks have fired upon the people; then they go their

way. Whither? Heaven only knows. But our captain, in the most stentorian

of voices, gives the word of command, "To the right, wheel!" and we are

striding up the faubourg, which is absolutely deserted as far as the Rue

des Marais. A collision seems pretty inevitable now, the more that the

Municipal Guards are already taking aim, when all at once our captain

and one of the lieutenants rush forward, and fling themselves into the

arms of the officers of the Municipal Guards. Tableau; and I am baulked

once more of a good fight. I leave my friend to see the rest of this

ridiculous comedy, and take my departure there and then.

The following is my companion's account of what happened after I left. I

am as certain that every word of it is true as if I had been there

myself, though it seems almost incredible that French officers, whose

worst enemies have never accused them of being deficient in courage,

should have acted so inconsiderately.

"The officers of the National Guards appear to have assumed at once the

office of protectors of the regulars against the violence of the crowd.

Why the regulars should have submitted to this, seeing that they were

far better armed than their would-be guardians, I am unable to say. Be

this as it may, the regulars consented, the flag floating above the

principal door of the barracks was taken down, and I really believe

that the Municipal Guards stacked their arms and virtually handed them

over to the others. But I will not vouch for it. At any rate, a few

hours afterwards, while the company had gone to dinner, the barracks

were assailed, the men and officers knocked down by the people, and the

building set on fire. When the fifth legion returned about eleven

o'clock to the Faubourg Saint-Martin, the flames were leaping up to the

sky, so they turned their heels contentedly in the direction of the

Boulevard du Temple, where they bivouacked between the Theatre de la

Gaite and the Ambigu-Comique, while those who had made appointments with

the little actresses went round by the stage doors to keep them. That,

as far as I could judge, was the part of the fifth legion in the day's

proceedings. I left them in all their glory, thinking themselves, no

doubt, very fine fellows.

"On the Thursday morning"--my companion told me all this on Saturday

evening, the 26th of February--"I was up betimes, simply because the

drumming and bugling prevented my sleeping. At eight, the Cafe Gregoire

was already very full, the heroes of the previous night had returned to

perform their ablutions, and also, I suppose, to reassure their anxious

spouses; but they had no longer that conquering air I noticed when I

left them the night before. Whether they had come to the conclusion that

both in love and war they had reaped but barren victories, I cannot say,

but their republican ardour, it seemed to me, had considerably cooled

down. I am convinced that, notwithstanding the events of Wednesday night

in the Faubourg Saint-Martin, they were under the impression that

neither the people nor the military would resort to further extremities.

I cannot help thinking that, after I left, not a single man could have

remained at his post, because not one amongst them seemed to have an

idea of the horrible slaughter on the Boulevard des Capucines.[44] They

were not left very long in ignorance of the real state of affairs, and

then they saw at once that they had roused a spectre they would be

unable to lay. From that moment, it is my opinion, they would have

willingly drawn back, but it was too late. While they were still

debating, an individual rushed in, telling them that one or two

regiments, commanded by a general (who turned out to be General Bedeau),

had drawn up in front of the barricade which had been thrown up during

the night in the Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle, and was being defended by a

detachment of the fifth legion. They all ran out, and I ran with them.

When we got to the boulevard, matters had already been arranged, and

they were just in time to join the escort General Bedeau had accepted,

after having consented not to execute the orders with which he had been

entrusted. By that time I began to perceive which way the wind was

blowing: the canaille had unceremoniously linked their arms in those of

the National Guards, and insisted, courteously but firmly, on carrying

their firearms. When we got to the Rue Montmartre, they took the horses

out of the gun-carriages, and the soldiers looked tamely on,

notwithstanding the commands of their officers. When the latter

endeavoured to enforce their orders by hitting them with the flat of

their swords, they simply left the ranks and joined the rabble. I had

had enough of it, and made my way home by the back streets. I had had

enough of it, and kept indoors until this afternoon."

[Footnote 44: The author, as will be seen directly, saw nothing

of that massacre, though he must have passed within a few

hundred yards of the spot immediately before it began. It would

have been the same if he had; he could not have explained the

cause, seeing that the most painstaking historians who have

consulted the most trustworthy eye-witnesses have failed to do

so. It will always remain a mystery whence the first shot came,

whether from the military who were drawn up across the

Boulevard des Capucines, on the spot where now stands the Grand

Cafe, or from the crowd that wanted to pass, in order to

proceed to Odilon-Barrot's to serenade him, because,

notwithstanding the opposition of the king, he was to be

included in the new ministry, which Mole had been instructed to

form. It may safely be said, however, that, but for that shot

and the slaughter consequent upon it, the revolution might have

been averted then--after all, perhaps, only

temporarily.--EDITOR.]

Thus far my informant. As for myself, I saw little on the Wednesday

night of what was going on. It was my own fault: I was too optimistic. I

had scarcely gone a few steps, after my dinner, when, just in front of

the Gymnase, they began shouting, "_La Patrie, Journal du soir_; achetez

_La Patrie_. Voyez le nouveau ministere de Monsieur Mole." I remember

giving the fellow half a franc, at which he grumbled, though it was

three times the ordinary price. On opening the paper, I rashly concluded

from what I read that the revolution was virtually at an end, and I was

the more confirmed in my opinion by the almost instantaneous lighting up

of the Boulevards. It was like a fairy scene: people were

illuminating--a little bit too soon, as it turned out. Being tired of

wandering, and feeling no inclination for bed, I turned into the

Gymnase. There were Bressant and Rose Cheri and Arnal; I would surely be

able to spend a few pleasant hours. But alack and alas! the house

presented a very doleful appearance--dead-heads, to a man; and very few

of these, people who, if they could not fiddle themselves, like Nero

while Rome was burning, would go to hear fiddling under no matter what

circumstances, provided they were not asked to pay. I did not stay long,

but when I came out into the streets the noise was too deafening for me.

The "Marseillaise" has always had a particularly jarring effect upon my

nerves. There are days when I could be cruel enough to prefer "the yells

of those ferocious soldiers, as they murder in cold blood the sons and

the companions" of one section of defenceless patriots, to the stirring

strains of the other section as they figuratively rush to the rescue;

and on that particular evening I felt in that mood. So, when I got to

the Boulevard Montmartre, I turned into the Theatre des Varietes. I

remember the programme up to this day. They were playing "Le Suisse de

Marly," "Le Marquis de Lauzun," "Les Extremes se touchent," and "Les

Vieux Peches." I had seen the second and the last piece at least a dozen

times, but I was always ready to see them again for the sake of Virginie

Dejazet in the one, of Bouffe in the other. The lessee at that time was

an Englishman. Bouffe and I had always kept up our friendship; so I made

up my mind to go and have a chat with him, hoping that Dejazet, whose

conversation affected one like a bottle of champagne, would join us. The

house, like the Gymnase, was almost empty, but I made my way behind the

scenes, and in about half an hour forgot all about the events outside.

Bouffe was telling me anecdotes about his London performances, and

Dejazet was imitating the French of some of the bigwigs of King

Leopold's court; so the time passed pleasantly enough. At the end of the

performance we proposed taking supper, and turned down the Rue

Montmartre. It was late when I returned home, consequently I saw nothing

of the slaughter on the Boulevard des Capucines.

Though I had gone to bed late, I was up betimes on the Thursday morning.

A glance at the Boulevards, as I turned the corner of my street about

half-past nine, convinced me that the illuminations of the previous

night had been premature, and that before the day was out there would be

an end of the monarchy of July. A slight mist was still hanging over

the city as I strolled in the direction of the Madeleine, and the

weather was damp and raw, but in about half an hour the sun broke

through. A shot was heard now and then, but I myself saw no collision

then between the troops and the people. On the contrary, it looked to me

as if the former would have been glad to be left alone. As I had been

obliged to leave home without my usual cup of tea for want of milk--the

servant had told me there was none--I went back a little way to

Tortoni's, where I was greeted with the same answer. I could have tea or

coffee or chocolate made with water, but milk there was none on that

side of Paris, and, unless things took a turn, there would be no butter.

The sovereign people had thrown up barricades during the night round all

the northern and north-western issues, and would not let the milk-carts

pass. They, no doubt, had some more potent fluids to fall back upon, for

a good many, even at that early hour, were by no means steady in their

gait. The Boulevards were swarming with them. Since then, I have seen

these sovereign people getting the upper hand twice, viz. on the 4th of

September, '70, and on the 18th of March, '71. I have seen them during

the siege of Paris, and I have no hesitation in saying that, for

cold-blooded, apish, monkeyish, tigerish cruelty, there is nothing on

the face of God's earth to match them, and that no concessions wrung

from society on their behalf will ever make them anything else but the

fiends in human shape they are.

After my fruitless attempt to get my accustomed breakfast, I resumed my

perambulations, this time taking the Rue Vivienne as far as the

Palais-Royal. It must have been between half-past ten and eleven when I

reached the Place du Carrousel, which, at a rough guess, was occupied by

about five thousand regular infantry and horse and National Guards. The

Place du Carrousel was not then, what it became later on, a large open

space. Part of it was encumbered with narrow streets of very tall

houses, and from their windows and roofs the sovereign people--according

to an officer who had been on duty from early morn--had been amusing

themselves by firing on the troops,--not in downright volleys, but with

isolated shots, picking out a man here and there. "But," I remonstrated,

"half a dozen pompiers and a score of linesmen could dislodge them in

less than ten minutes, instead of returning their shots one by one." "So

they could," was the reply, "but orders came from the Chateau not to do

so, and here we are. Besides," added my informant, "I doubt very much,

if I gave my men the word of command to storm the place, whether they

would do so; they are thoroughly demoralized. On our way hither I had

the greatest difficulty in keeping them together. Without a roll-call I

could not exactly tell you how many are missing, but as we came along I

noticed several falling out and going into the wine-shops with the

rabble. They did not come back again. I had to shut my eyes to it. If I

had attempted to prevent it, there would have been a more horrible

slaughter than there was last night on the Boulevards, and, what is

worse, the men who remained staunch would have been in a minority, and

not able to stand their ground. The mob have got hold of the muskets of

the National Guards. I dare say, as you came along, you noticed on many

doors, written up in chalk, 'Arms given up,' and on some the words 'with

pleasure' added to the statement." It was perfectly true; I had noticed

it.

I was still talking to the captain when the drums began to beat and the

buglers sounded the salute. At the same moment I saw the King, in the

uniform of a general of the National Guards, cross the courtyard on

horseback. I noticed a great many ladies at the ground-floor windows of

the palace, but could not distinguish their faces. I was told afterwards

that they were the Queen and the princesses, endeavouring to encourage

the septuagenarian monarch. Louis-Philippe was seventy-five then.

I have often heard and seen it stated by historians of the revolution of

'48, that the Duke d'Aumale and the Prince de Joinville, had they been

in Paris, would have saved their father's crown. This is an assumption

which it is difficult to disprove, seeing how popular these young

princes were then. But if the assumption is meant to convey that the mob

at the sight of these brave young fellows would have laid down their

arms without fighting, I can unhesitatingly contradict it. What the

National Guard might have done it is impossible to say. The regulars, no

doubt, would have followed the princes into battle, as they would have

followed their brother, De Nemours, notwithstanding the latter's

unpopularity. There would have been a great deal of bloodshed, but the

last word would have remained with the Government. Louis-Philippe's

greatest title to glory is that of having prevented such bloodshed. But

to show how little such abnegation of self is understood by even the

most educated Frenchmen, I must relate a story which was told to me many

years afterwards by a French officer who, at that time, had just

returned from the Pontifical States, where he had helped to defeat the

small army of Garibaldi. He was describing the battle-field of Mentana

to Napoleon III., and mentioned a prisoner he had made who turned out to

be an old acquaintance from the Boulevards. "He was furious against

Garibaldi, sire," said the officer, "because the latter had placed him

in the necessity, as it were, of firing upon his own countrymen in a

strange land. Said the prisoner, 'I am not an emigre; I would not have

gone to Coblenz; I am a Frenchman from the crown of my head to the sole

of my foot. If it came to fighting my countrymen in the streets of

Paris, that would be a different thing. I should not have the slightest

scruple of firing upon the Imperial Guards or upon the rabble, as the

case might be, for that would be civil war.' That's what he said, sire."

Napoleon nodded his head, and with his wonderful, sphinxlike smile,

replied, "Your prisoner was right; it makes all the difference." The

Orleans princes, save perhaps one, never knew these distinctions; if

they had known them, the Comte de Paris might be King of France to-day.

To return for a moment to Louis-Philippe as I saw him at the last

moments of his reign. He felt evidently disappointed at the lukewarm

reception he received, for though there was a faint cry among the

regulars of "Vive le Roi!" it was immediately drowned by the stentorian

one of the rabble of "Vive la Reforme!" in which a good many of the

National Guards joined. He was evidently in a hurry to get back to the

Tuileries, and, when he disappeared in the doorway, I had looked upon

him for the last time in my life. An hour and a half later, he had left

Paris for ever.

* * * * *

Personally I saw nothing of the flight of the King, nor of the inside of

the Tuileries, until the royal family were gone. The story of that

flight was told to me several years later by the Duc de Montpensier.

What is worse, in those days it never entered my mind that a time would

come when I should feel desirous of committing my reminiscences to

paper, consequently I kept no count of the hours that went by, and

cannot, therefore, give the exact sequence of events. I do not know how

long I stood among the soldiers and the crowd, scarcely divided from

one another even by an imaginary line. It was not a pleasant crowd,

though to my great surprise there were a great many more decently

dressed persons in it than I could have expected, so I stayed on. About

half an hour after the King re-entered the Tuileries, I noticed two

gentlemen elbow their way through the serried masses. I had no

difficulty in recognizing the one in civilian's clothes. Though he was

by no means so famous as he became afterwards, there was hardly a

Parisian who would not have recognized him on the spot. His portrait had

been drawn over and over again, at least as many times as that of the

King, and it is a positive fact that nurses frightened their babies with

it. He was the ugliest man of the century. It was M. Adolphe

Cremieux.[45] His companion was in uniform. I learnt afterwards that it

was General Gourgaud, but I did not know him then except by name, and in

connection with his polemics with the Duke of Wellington, in which the

latter did not altogether behave with the generosity one expects from an

English gentleman towards a fallen foe. As they passed, the old soldier

must have been recognized, because not one, but at least a hundred cries

resounded, "Vive la grande armee! Vive l'Empereur!" In after years I

thought that these cries sounded almost prophetic, though I am pretty

sure that those who uttered them had not the slightest hope of, and

perhaps not even a desire for, a Napoleonic restoration; at any rate,

not the majority. There is one thing, however, which could not have

failed to strike the impartial observer during the next twenty years. I

have seen a good many riots, small and large, during the Second Republic

and the Second Empire. "Seditious cries," as a matter of course, were

freely shouted. I have never heard a single one of "Vivent les

D'Orleans!" or "Vivent les Bourbons!" I have already spoken more than

once about the powerful influence of the Napoleonic legend in those

days; I shall have occasion to refer to it again and again when speaking

about the nephew of the first Napoleon.

[Footnote 45: The author is slightly mistaken. The two ugliest

men in France in the nineteenth century were Andrieux, who

wrote "Les Etourdis," and Littre; but Cremieux ran them very

hard.--EDITOR.]

Cremieux and Gourgaud could not have been inside the Tuileries more than

a quarter of an hour when they rushed out again. They evidently made a

communication to the troops, because I beheld the latter waving their

arms, but, of course, I did not catch a word of what they said; I was

too far away. It was, I learnt afterwards, the announcement of the

advent of a new ministry, and the appointment of a new commander of the

National Guards. When I saw hats and caps flung into the air, and heard

the people shouting, I made certain that the revolution was at an end. I

was mistaken. It was not Cremieux's communication at all that had

provoked the enthusiasm; it was a second communication, made by some one

from the doorway of the Tuileries immediately after the eminent

barrister had disappeared among the crowd, to the effect that the King

had abdicated in favour of the Comte de Paris, with the Duchesse

d'Orleans as regent. Between the first and second announcements there

could not have elapsed more than five or six minutes, ten at the utmost,

because, before I had time to recover from my surprise, I saw Cremieux

and Gourgaud battle through the tightly wedged masses once more, and

re-enter the Tuileries to verify the news. I am writing this note

especially by the light of subsequent information, for, I repeat, it was

impossible to understand events succinctly by the quickly succeeding

effects they produced at the time. Another ten minutes elapsed--ten

minutes which I shall never forget, because every one of the thousands

present on the Place du Carrousel was in momentary danger of having the

life crushed out of him. It was no one's fault; there was, if I

recollect rightly, but one narrow issue on the river-side, and there was

a dense seething mass standing on the banks, notwithstanding the danger

of that position, for the insurgents were firing freely and recklessly

across the stream. Egress on the opposite side of the Place du

Carrousel, that of the Place du Palais-Royal, had become absolutely

impossible, for at that moment a fierce battle was raging there between

the people and the National Guards for the possession of the military

post of the Chateau d'Eau;[46] and those of the non-combatants who did

not think it necessary to pay for the fall or the maintenance of the

monarchy of July with life or limb, tried to get out of the bullets'

reach. There was but one way of doing so, by a stampede in a southerly

direction; the Rue de Rivoli, at any rate that part which existed, was

entirely blocked to the west, the congeries of streets that have been

pulled down since to make room for its prolongation to the east were

bristling with barricades: hence the terrible, suffocating crush, in

which several persons lost their lives. The most curious incident

connected with these awful ten minutes was that of a woman and her baby.

When Cremieux issued for the second time from the Tuileries, it was to

confirm the news of the King's abdication. Almost immediately

afterwards, the masses on the quay were making for the Place de la

Concorde and the Palais-Bourbon, whither, it was rumoured, the Duchesse

D'Orleans and her two sons were going; and gradually the wedged-in mass

on the Place du Carrousel found breathing space. Then the woman was seen

to fall down like a ninepin that has been toppled over; she was dead,

but her baby, which she had held above the crowd, and which they had, as

it were, to wrench from her grasp, was alive and well.

[Footnote 46: So called after a large ornamental fountain; the

same, I believe, which subsequently was transferred to what is

now called the Place de la Republique, and which finally found

its way to the Avenue Daumesnil, where it stands at

present.--EDITOR.]

I stood for a little while longer on the Place du Carrousel, trying to

make up my mind whether to proceed to the Place de la Concorde or to the

Place de l'Hotel de Ville. I knew that the newly-elected powers,

whosoever they might be, would make their appearance at the latter spot,

but how long it would be before they came, I had not the least idea. I

was determined, however, to see at any rate one act of the drama or the

farce; for even then there was no knowing in what guise events would

present themselves. I could hear the reports of firearms on both sides

of me, though why there should be firing when the King had thrown up the

sponge, I could not make out for the life of me. I did not know France

so well then as I know her now. I did not know then that there is no man

or, for that matter, no woman on the civilized earth so heedlessly and

obdurately bloodthirsty when he or she works himself into a fury as the

professedly debonnaire Parisian proletarian. Nevertheless, I decided to

go to the Hotel de Ville, and had carefully worked my way as far as the

site of the present Place du Chatelet, when I was compelled to retrace

my steps. The elite of the Paris scum was going to dictate its will to

the new Government; it was marching to the Chamber of Deputies with

banners flying. One of the latter was a red-and-white striped flannel

petticoat, fastened to a tremendously long pole. I had no choice, and if

at that moment my friends had seen me they might have easily imagined

that I had become one of the leaders of the revolutionary mob. We took

by the Quai de la Megisserie, and just before the Pont des Arts there

was a momentary halt. The vanguard, which I was apparently leading, had

decided to turn to the right; in other words, to visit the abode of the

hated tyrant. Had I belonged to the main division, I should have

witnessed a really more important scene, from the historical point of

view; as it was, I witnessed--

THE SACKING OF THE TUILERIES.

The idea that "there is a divinity that hedgeth round a king" seemed, I

admit, preposterous enough at that moment; but I could not help being

struck with its partial truth on seeing the rabble invade the palace.

When I say the rabble, I mean the rabble, though there were a great many

persons whom it would be an insult to class as such, and who from sheer

curiosity, or because they could not help themselves, had gone in with

them. The doors proved too narrow, and those who could not enter by that

way, entered by the windows. The whole contingent of the riff-raff, male

and female, weltering in the adjacent streets--and such streets!--was

there. Well, for the first ten minutes they stood positively motionless,

not daring to touch anything. It was not the fear of being caught

pilfering and punished summarily that prevented them. The minority which

might have protested was so utterly insignificant in numbers, as to make

action on their part impossible. No, it was neither fear nor shame that

stayed the rabble's hands; it was a sentiment for which I can find no

name. It was the consciousness that these objects had belonged to a

king, to a royal family, which made them gaze upon them in a kind of

superstitious wonder. It did not last long. We were on the ground floor,

which mainly consisted of the private apartments of the household of

Louis-Philippe. We were wandering, or rather squeezing, through the

study and bedroom of the King himself, through the sitting-rooms of the

princes and princesses. I do not think that a single thing was taken

from there at that particular time. But as if the atmosphere their

rulers had breathed but so very recently became too oppressive, the

crowd swayed towards the vestibule, and ascended the grand staircase.

Then the spell was broken. The second batch that entered through the

windows, when we had made room for them, were apparently not affected

by wonder and respect, for, half an hour later, when I came down again,

every cupboard, every wardrobe, had been forced, though it is but fair

to say that very little seems to have been taken; the contents, books,

clothing, linen, etc., were scattered on the floors; but the cellars,

containing over four thousand bottles of wine, were positively empty.

Two hours later, however, the clothing, especially that of the

princesses, had totally disappeared. It had disappeared on the backs of

the inmates of St. Lazare, the doors of which had been thrown open, and

who had rushed to the Tuileries to deck themselves with these fine

feathers which, in this instance, did not make fine birds. I saw some of

them that same evening on the Boulevards, and a more heart-rending

spectacle I have rarely beheld.

The three hours I spent at the Tuileries were so crowded with events as

to make a succinct account of them altogether impossible. I can only

give fragments, because, though at first the wearers of broadcloth were

not molested, this tolerance did not last long on the part of the new

possessors of the Tuileries; and consequently the former gradually

dropped off, and those of them who remained had to be very circumspect,

and, above all, not to linger long in the same spot. This growing

hostility might have been nipped in the bud by our following the example

of the National Guards, and taking off our coats and fraternizing with

the rabble; but I frankly confess that I had neither the courage nor the

stomach to do so. I have read descriptions of mutinous sailors stowing

in casks of rum and gorging themselves with victuals; revolting as such

scenes must be to those who take no active part in them, I doubt whether

they could be as revolting as the one I witnessed in the Gallerie de

Diane.

The Galerie de Diane was one of the large reception rooms on the first

floor, but it generally served as the dining and breakfast room of the

royal family. The table had been laid for about three dozen persons,

because, as a rule, Louis-Philippe invited the principal members of his

military and civil households to take their repasts with him. The

breakfast had been interrupted, and not been cleared away. When I

entered the apartment some sixty or seventy ruffians of both sexes were

seated at the board, while a score or so were engaged in waiting upon

them. They were endeavouring to accomplish what the Highest Authority

has declared impossible of accomplishment, namely, the making of silken

purses out of sows' ears. They were "putting on" what they considered

"company manners," and, under any other circumstances but these, the

attempt would have proved irresistibly comic to the educated spectator;

as it was, it brought tears to one's eyes. I have already hinted

elsewhere that the cuisine at the Tuileries during Louis-Philippe's

reign was execrable, though the wine was generally good. Bad as was the

fare on that abandoned breakfast-table, it must, nevertheless, have been

superior to that usually partaken of by the convives who had taken the

place of the fugitive king and princes. They, the convives, however, did

not think so; they criticized the food, and ordered the improvised

attendants "to give them something different;" then they turned to their

female companions, filling their glasses and paying them compliments.

But for the fact of another batch eagerly claiming their turn, the

repast would have been indefinitely prolonged; as it was, the provisions

in the palace were running short, and the deficiency had to be made up

by supplies from outside. The inner man being refreshed, the ladies were

invited to take a stroll through the apartments, pending the serving of

the cafe and liqueurs. The preparation of the mocha was somewhat

difficult, seeing the utensils necessary for the supply of so large a

company were probably not at hand, and the ingredients themselves in the

store-rooms of the palace. Nothing daunted, one of the self-invited

guests rose and said, in a loud voice, "Permettez moi d'offrir le cafe a

la compagnie," which offer was received with tumultuous applause.

Suiting the action to the word, he pulled out a small canvas bag, and

took from it two five-franc pieces. "Qu'on aille chercher du cafe et du

meilleur," he said to one of the guests who had stepped forward to

execute his orders, for they sounded almost like it; and I was wondering

why those professed champions of equality did not tell him to fetch the

coffee himself. Then he added, "Et pendant que tu y es, citoyen, apporte

des cigares pour nous et des cigarettes pour les dames." The "citoyen"

was already starting on his errand, when the other "citoyen" called him

back. "Ecoute," he said; "tu n'acheteras rien a moins d'y etre force. Je

crois que tu n'auras qu'a demander a la premiere epicerie venue ce qu'il

te faut, et ainsi au premier bureau de tabac. Ils ont si peur, ces sales

bourgeois qu'ils n'oseront pas te refuser. En tout cas prends un fusil;

on ne sait pas ce qui peut arriver; mais ne t'en sers pas qu'en cas de

necessite:"--which meant plainly enough, "If they refuse to give you the

coffee and the tobacco, shoot them down."

Of course, I am unable to say how these two commodities were eventually

procured; but I have every reason to believe that this messenger had

only "to ask and have," without as much as showing his musket. There is

no greater cur at troublous times than the Paris shopkeeper. The merest

urchin will terrify him. Even on the previous day I had seen bands of

gamins who had constituted themselves the guardians of the

barricades--and there was one in nearly every street--levy toll without

the slightest resistance, when a few well-administered cuffs would have

sent them flying, so I have not the slightest doubt that our friend had

all the credit of his generosity without disbursing a penny--unless his

delegate fleeced him also, on the theory that a man who could "fork out"

ten francs at a moment's notice was nothing more or less than a

bourgeois. However, when I returned after about forty minutes' absence,

it was very evident that both the coffee and the tobacco had arrived,

because the Galerie de Diane, large as it was, was full of smoke, and

three saucepans, filled with water, were standing on the fire, while two

or three smaller ones were arranged on the almost priceless marble

mantelpiece. Another batch of ravenous republicans had taken their seats

at the board, their predecessors whiling the time away in sweet converse

with the "ladies." Some of the latter were more usefully engaged; they

were rifling the cabinets of the most rare and valuable Sevres, and

arranging the cups, saucers, platters on their tops to be ready for the

beverage that was being brewed. I was wondering how they had got at

these art treasures, having noticed an hour before that their

receptacles were locked and the keys taken away. The doors had simply

been battered in with the hammer of the great clock of the Tuileries.

It was of a piece with the wanton destruction I had witnessed elsewhere,

during my absence from the Galerie de Diane. Before I returned thither,

I had seen the portrait of General Bugeaud in the Salle des Marechaux,

literally stabbed with bayonets; the throne treated to a similar fate,

and carried off to the Place de la Bastille to be burned publicly; the

papers of the royal family mercilessly flung to the winds; the dresses

of the princesses torn to ribbons or else put on the backs of the vilest

of the vile.

There was only one comic incident to relieve the horror of the whole. In

one of the private apartments the rabble had come upon an aged parrot

screeching at the top of its voice, "A bas Guizot!" The bird became a

hero there and then, and was absolutely crammed with sweets and sugar.

That one comic note was not enough to dispel my disgust, and after the

scene in the Galerie de Diane which I have just described, I made my way

into the street.

I had scarcely proceeded a few steps, when I heard the not very

startling news that the republic had been formally proclaimed in the

Chamber by M. de Lamartine, who had afterwards repaired to the Hotel de

Ville. At the same time, people were shouting that the King had died

suddenly. I endeavoured to get as far, but, though the distance was

certainly not more than half a mile, it took me more than an hour. At

every few yards my progress was interrupted by barricades, the

self-elected custodians of which were particularly anxious to show their

authority to a man like myself, dressed in a coat. At last I managed to

get to the corner of the Rues des Lombards and Saint-Martin, and just in

time to enjoy a sight than which I have witnessed nothing more comic

during the succeeding popular uprisings in subsequent years. I was just

crossing, when a procession hove in sight, composed mainly of ragged

urchins, dishevelled women, and riff-raff of both sexes. In their midst

was an individual on horseback, dressed in the uniform of a general of

the First Republic, whom they were cheering loudly. The stationary crowd

made way for them, and mingled with the escort. The moment I had thrown

in my lot with the latter, retreat was no longer possible, and in a very

short time I found myself in the courtyard of the Hotel de Ville, and,

in another minute or so, in the principal gallery on the first floor,

where, it appears, _some members_ of the Provisional Government were

already at work. I had not the remotest notion who they were, nor did I

care to inquire, having merely come to look on. The work of the members

of the Provisional Government seemed mainly to consist in consuming

enormous quantities of charcuterie and washing them down with copious

libations of cheap wine. The place was positively reeking with the smell

of both, not to mention the fumes of tobacco. Every one was smoking his

hardest. The entrance of the individual in uniform caused somewhat of a

sensation; a _member_--whom I had never seen before and whom I have

never beheld since--stepped forward to ask his business. The new-comer

did not appear to know himself; at any rate, he stammered and stuttered,

but his escort left him no time to betray his confusion more plainly.

"C'est le citoyen gouverneur de l'Hotel de Ville," they shouted as with

one voice; and there and then the new governor was installed, though I

am perfectly sure that not a soul of all those present knew as much as

his name.

Subsequent inquiries elicited the fact that the man was a fourth or

fifth-rate singer, named Chateaurenaud, and engaged at the Opera

National (formerly the Cirque Olympique) on the Boulevard du Temple. On

that day they were having a dress rehearsal of a new piece in which

Chateaurenaud was playing a military part. He had just donned his

costume when, hearing a noise on the Boulevards, he put his head out of

the window. The mob caught sight of him. "A general, a general!" cried

several urchins; and in less time than it takes to tell, the theatre was

invaded, and notwithstanding his struggles, Chateaurenaud was carried

off, placed on horseback, and conducted to the Hotel de Ville, where,

for the next fortnight, he throned as governor. For, curious to relate,

M. de Lamartine ratified his appointment(?) on the morning of the 25th

of February. Chateaurenaud became an official of the secret police

during the Second Empire. I often saw him on horseback in the Bois de

Boulogne, when the Emperor drove in that direction.

I did not stay long in the Hotel de Ville, but made my way back to the

Boulevards as best I could; for by that time darkness had set in, and

the mob was shouting for illuminations, and obstructing the

thoroughfares everywhere. Every now and then one came upon a body which

had been lying there since the morning, but they took no notice of it.

Their principal concern seemed the suitable acknowledgment of the advent

of the Second Republic by the bourgeoisie by means of coloured devices,

or, in default of such, by coloured lamps or even candles. Woe to the

houses, the inhabitants of which remained deaf to their summons to that

effect. In a very few minutes every window was smashed to atoms, until

at last a timid hand was seen to arrange a few bottles with candles

stuck into them on the sill, and light them. Then they departed, to

impose their will elsewhere.

That night, after dinner, the first person of my acquaintance I met was

Mery. He had been in the Chamber of Deputies from the very beginning of

the proceedings; it was he who solemnly assured me that the first cry of

"Vive la Republique!" had been uttered by M. de Lamartine. I was

surprised at this, because I had been told that early in the morning the

poet had paid a visit to the Duchesse d'Orleans to assure her of his

devotion to her cause. "That may be so," said Mery, to whom I repeated

what I had heard; "but you must remember that Lamartine is always hard

up, and closely pursued by duns. A revolution with the prospect of

becoming president of the republic was the only means of staving off his

creditors. He clutched at it as a last resource."

Alexandre Dumas was there also, but I have an idea that he would have

willingly passed the sponge over that incident of his life, for I never

could get him to talk frankly on the subject. This does not mean that he

would have recanted his republican principles, but that he was ashamed

at having lent his countenance to such a republic as that. I fancy there

were a great many like him.

An Englishman in Paris: Notes and Recollections · 第 10 / 24 章